Reo Wilde on PAPER TUNING

[@Son_of_Docent]

actually, you are supposed to move the rest to the left)))) for right tear

[@Reowildearchery]

@@Son_of_Docent yes you are correct;)

[@winnmahuron6314]

Follow the impact of the point is how I have remembered arrow rest adjustment. You are correct.

[@jthepickle7]

Spray foot powder on the shaft, with a blade rest, reveals that it is best to reverse traditional rest movements!

[@jmcn5177]

I bought your dads jet boat about 5 years ago. Still running strong. Good boat. Like the archery videos

[@robertopasquini9776]

Rio you are so right! I agree totally. Thank you.

[@EthanPageHunter]

I’ve been saying for some time that a very slight nock high is the way to go for the same reason you said, direction of force. Great info Reo 🤙🏼

[@nickyPayne88]

Great video man. That’s was so funny when you knocked over the paper tuner trying to yank the arrow out with the bow in you hand because I’ve done that so many times lol.

[@stephenswansonjr1377]

Loved the blooper reel!

[@juanrodrigoramirez6428]

Hi Reo! Could you make a video on group tuning? Big fan of yours, even took a picture with you at Vegas 2024! Thanks for the videos

[@deanmoloney5059]

Great advice buddy , I've had bows like you that were t pretty on paper but group tuned great

[@igortsuker2884]

got to make it perfect.

[@kylehurley5651]

Hopefully there’s a in depth group tuning video coming up next!!!

[@royhoglund1322]

Keep the blooper reel! It's priceless and nobody's doing it!

[@jthepickle7]

After about 2000 shots through paper, I agree; a bullet hole is not essential...especially if a bullet hole is never evident!

[@jamesashley3827]

Thanks

[@PennNative]

Reo, I have my short hunting bow that has a low tear I can’t get to go away. Check nock pinch, I even tried it with a gap at full draw on my draw board. That didn’t help either, my limbdriven rest is timed perfectly, exactly how hamskea says to on there website. I even advanced top cam so it hits first. I can drop rest so I’m 1/8” high nocking point. I even checked my bearings, I have tried tillering my bottom limb pocket, arrows are correct spine. I don’t think I’m healing the grip to much.. i think my grip is fine. I feel my form is pretty solid. I’m just not sure what to do?? I checked bare shaft to be sure it’s not fletch contact same thing. Shot it off my face to make sure it’s not me pressing into the string. Bow is in spec. I tried raising my nock point so it’s higher in the Berger hole too. Short Mathews hunting bow. Got any advice?

[@Reowildearchery]

The two I would play with is arrow spine and maybe timing. Those are my two best guesses. It’s hard not being able to play with it myself.

[@PennNative]

@@Reowildearchery thank you.

[@syahjohnsy]

look like a new release right there

[@Reowildearchery]

Shhhhhh ;)

[@dalechism5709]

Can you do a video on ways to make your bow more forgiving? I’ve seen torque tuning but most of the hunting rests do not allow for this, is that correct?

[@Reowildearchery]

Your very correct on the rest not allowing that. Let me see what we can do. 👍🏻

[@Illustrator76]

Question for you Reo. I'm curious which one you put more stock into, bare shaft or paper tuning? I had a bow that was giving me a perfect hole through paper, but the bare shaft was very high and very left of the fletched arrow. I ended up resetting my shims to factory specs, and now my bare shaft and fletched arrows are touching, but the paper tear is showing nock high-left. I feel like paper can often lie, but the bare shaft doesn't. What are your thoughts?

[@Reowildearchery]

@@Illustrator76 I start with paper then group. Don’t put much stock in bare shaft.

[@Reowildearchery]

@@Illustrator76 I start with paper and then group. I don’t put much stock in bare shaft.

[@Illustrator76]

@@ReowildearcheryAwesome. Thanks for all of your help!

[@danskhus]

Okay maybe a dumb question but why not just run a drop away rest for everything target, 3D, hunting that way you don't have clearence issues or is a good top of the shelf drop away just not as accurate?

[@Reowildearchery]

I saw a bad thing happen one time with a drop away. My dad was shooting one and it failed and he shot a zero. Since then I know how hard I work and I want as little chance of failure as I can get. That’s why. Not that they are bad. I just have a trust issue.

[@danskhus]

@@Reowildearchery take away the chance of failure are drop aways less precise in your opinion? Thanks soo much for your response 😊

[@l.i.archer5379]

Nock right tear through paper, you should move the rest to the left.

[@Reowildearchery]

@@l.i.archer5379 yes I was a little confused looking at the paper with a camera :) plus was a little tired lol

[@jwild5360]

I just don’t find this to be true with fixed heads. I thinks it’s all absolutely true with field points and maybe get away with it with mechanicals. Big fixed heads at 60 yards I’ve just never seen fly well with a poor paper tare. That 1/4 inch of a tare is along ways off with a bareshaft. I’ve got some videos of perfect paper tares and barehafts being no where close. I’ve got ZERO videos of a perfect bareshaft having a poor paper tare or poor broadhead flight. When my barehafts are good at 50y my fixed heads are good until they hit the ground. I don’t think BS tuning is for everyone there’s more variables as you know than the even above average hunter knows and understands but with the right knowledge of everything that can and will effect a bareshaft flight I don’t think it’s beatable for HUNTING and broadheads. I still tune with a tiny amount of direction with bareshafts at 30 yards. Slightly high and left towards 5 o clock but it’s a small amount that paper can’t detect with vanes or without and point blank range.

[@lifeatfulldraw7163]

Paper tuning is borind. Lol. What new release is that. ?

[@feelsgooddoit]

Bareshaft