Whirlpool Gas Dryer Gas Valve Assembly Replacement 279923

[@Ari-mc3pj]

I have a MGDB850YW1 Maytag gas dryer that keeps knocking out the thermal cutoff. I changed the one-piece duel coils and both it and the high limit fuse on the burner but it keeps blowing out the thermal cutoff on the burner housing. I had the repair tech over and he said the new coil and the new thermal cutoff are blown again and said it would require replacing them and the burner WP 85557891, similar to the one pictured. I did not realize that only one screw holds the single unit coil in place and took of several of the gas valve bolts before I realized my mistake. The gas valve spring came out so I put it back as it appeared go in that round raised area in the center of the burner. Anyway, he said the burner is bad, either from me taking it apart and reassembling or it was the bad part to begin with. Your tutorial is excellent but I have been pulling my hair out over it too long and am getting new units. Half tempted to do the repair out of spite!

[@radchander]

Very nicely demonstrated

[@TomP-s2i]

Hello, first thing thanks for the great videos, very helpful. But I cannot find any info on replacing the regulator and the regulator spring in the gas valve assy.. When replacing these parts how far do you tighten down the little plastic regulator screw that pushes the spring. Do you screw it all the way in until it hits bottom, no instructions with new parts. Thank you!

[@G5questman]

If you're tightening an adjustment on the regulator, which it sounds like you are, typically the farther clockwise or in you go increases the amount of pressure or gas and counterclockwise or out will decrease the pressure. These valves are typically set from factory to a specific set point. You may be able to find that on the valve itself. You typically wouldn't have a reason to adjust it unless you're flame is either too small or too big possibly. Probably better to just buy one already preset.

[@kennikuhlmann-clark9860]

My dryer has a full-width kick-panel on the bottom front of dryer, which seems to give full access to the burner, the igniter, and the heat sensor.... I'm thinking I do not need to remove anything else before removing the burner assembly (besides the rear panel and gas line)?...

[@xmyn]

Hi, thanks for the video. I have a Kenmore Elite HE3 gas dryer which seems to have similar gas valve and burner assembly. I recently found some minor to medium gas leak around the valve (using a Home-Flex detector bought at Home Depot). I'm wondering if there is anything I can fix (such as loosen parts) on the valve, instead of changing the whole assembly..... Thanks a lot.

[@feslerdm]

I have a whirlpool, ordered a replacement gas valve after making sure to check the specifications, and it looks darn near identical except for one thing. The two prong and three prong solenoids are on opposite sides from the original. Aside from that it looks exactly the same. Can I still use this or is that an issue?

[@kewlztertc5386]

Success! there be heat and dry clothes! Thank you!

[@johnstinnett6624]

Why would there be a water line to a dryer?

[@davidcampagna2223]

For a steam cycle.

[@condor5635]

Another useless feature with more parts that break and need replacing 😃

[@SHCollector]

Ridiculous that the gas valve assembly in its entirety needs to be this much work when a high percentage of the problem are the two solenoid that costs around $5-7 while an ignitor itself on older gas dryers are around $25-30 retail. This burner assembly has to be around $200. Crazy rip-off

[@crazee6821]

Do you know if we gotta use a liquid thread sealer ? All I have is the yellow thread Teflon tape

[@thiamsangachawngthu7823]

Good

[@francevachon6847]

Interesting but to complicate for me !!!