Honda 3.5L V6 Timing Belt & Water Pump Replacement- Pilot, Ridgeline, Odyssey.

[@RepairGeek]

Here are some of the tools and parts that I used to complete the timing belt service: Tools: Crank Pulley Holding Tool: amzn.to/3gT8a8Z 19mm Crank Bolt Socket: amzn.to/2F5Pu8t Full Set of Crank Pulley Sockets: amzn.to/3bqVncQ Impact Gun: amzn.to/3jO3kvz Parts: Timing Kit (Asin): amzn.to/35fVRS3 Timing Kit (OEM Honda): amzn.to/3sa9oSL Thermostat: amzn.to/2QRiWll Thermostat Gasket: amzn.to/3lPdnlS Motor Mount: amzn.to/3jHxNLG Concentrated Coolant (needs diluted): amzn.to/2QSQboE Diluted Coolant: amzn.to/351AhAi My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.

[@bizzykidd2608]

its not just redline trim on the vue's its all v6 models 2004-2007 most of them were just fwd

[@webcrawler3332]

Great video! Will the crank and valves cranks turn easily by hand when you’re putting belt on? Or will they only turn with a wrench?

[@dan4man]

I would have never believed that there's a "magic" Crank Bolt Socket, but you're spot on. With the same extact tools (impact and socket), I got the same results. I tried to use a standard socket and it did nothing but make noise. Thanks for the accurate video!

[@kevinrich9471]

Thx for this video! I’m thinking the Asin parts are as good as oem Honda? !

[@مصمممعماريمحترف]

Please I have question ,,,,what position should the arm of the gear lever be P or N ?

[@TraumaChaplain]

Just returning back to say thank you! After 2 days of minimal tool availability and a lot of learning, mission accomplished. I appreciate your teaching style and attention to detail.

[@congzhi5093]

How much time did you spend? Never done this but have two cars of this engine

[@MrMichaelmager]

I've watched a few videos on how to do the the timing belt on my 2011 Odyssey. Some are wayyy to long, rambling on nonsense, and others are not enough info. I know how to do a timing belt, I just like to watch and see if there's any suggestions or suprises that will pop up. This hands down is the most informative video I've seen so far. Very clear and to the point. Very well done.

[@ragtie6177]

Totally agree

[@roccoelleto9900]

Thank you for your excellent tutorial. Today is July 6 2024 and I just tackled the timing belt on my 2006 Acura RL. It's got just under 97,000 miles on it and the belts are all original. My daughter is taking the car off to college and I wanted to get it done before she left. While there were just a few things different between your demo car and mine, your video made doing the work simple and straight forward. I've been a gearhead for over 45 years, but video tutorials are so very beneficial. Thanks again.

[@DownloaderVideo]

So you had the original timing belt for 18 years?? If so you should play the Lotto as might win it 😂. Timing belts are scheduled to be replaced at 7 years or 84,000 miles whichever comes first. Congrats on the successful operation.

[@SewerMonkeys]

Great video and thank you for making it. I just finished replacing my timing belt using the Aisin kit, and the most important thing (echoing many comments here) is to mark the OLD belt at all 3 cog locations (with white marking pen), and then mark it exactly on the NEW belt. Once you have the old belt off, just lay the new belt on top of the old belt, line up the teeth by sliding your fingers along the belts to keep it taut and in-sync, and mark it correspondingly. This will give you hard evidence and the confidence that you have installed your new belt correctly, which is very much needed in this install. The main obstacle from my own install was getting the new belt taut. It really needs to be taut (like a guitar string). At first, I installed the belt same way as the video, starting from the crankshaft, up around the front idler bearing, and through the front camshaft. And no matter how hard I tried I would be a tooth off (by verifying the markings) and there would be slack between the front idler bearing and front camshaft. I spent half an hour cursing trying to get it lined up with no success. My solution was to LOOSEN the front idler bearing (unscrew the installed idler bearing about 1/4 of the way out). It will give about 1/3 inch of play/slack to get your belt and white marks lined up. Rear tensioner bearing not installed. So this time around I started installing the belt at the front camshaft, aligning the white marks lined up, and then under the water pump and then the rear camshaft. Then I guided the belt around the front idler bearing (still loosened) and then down to the crankshaft. All of your white marks should be lined up. If so, get your ratchet and as you start tightening the front idler bearing back up to torque specs... you will see the belt getting guitar string taut all around, except in the rear. At that point install the rear idler, and triple check one last time before pulling the grenade pin on the tensioner. Hope this helps.

[@Lloyd-z3q]

Easier way to do it is to put socket on front cam gear bolt and turn it a bit so the lines line up. What everyone fails to say is the cams are under tension from the valve springs. So when you take the old belt off, the cams will move a bit just to mess up the alignment. It is so slight you may not be aware of it. Also the stiffness and folds in the new belt make it difficult to install. Just move the cam a bit. The key is just to make the 3 lines align.

[@mr2_mike]

​@@Lloyd-z3qI was wondering if I could do that this way. I've done Toyota belts this way. It's very slight like 1/16th of a turn but allows the belt to get into the teeth. Use a wrench not an socket driver. Allows more control either direction so you don't break anything.

[@Vintage-ModelsandEngines]

My son and I did the timing belt and water pump on his Ridgeline this past weekend using your video the whole time. We were able to perform this job with confidence. Thank you for posting this!

[@markjohnson9495]

Great video. About the slack when installing the new belt: Volvo B21 engines had their timing belts marked with white lines that matched up to the gear / engine case marks. Volvo basically pre-counted the right number of teeth and marked the belt for you as a failsafe. They put a double line for the crank to get it oriented correctly from the start. You could mark the old belt before taking it off, then mark the new belt accordingly before installing it... Not by length of course, but by counting the belt teeth. It would take a few extra minutes but it would save time on the belt install because you would know for sure if anything moved or if the belt had slack. The belt mark(s) would either match up or not with all the other marks.

[@danielzimnoch4365]

Just did this job yesterday. Took all day but got it all done, and that includes a lot of time to degrease a lot of parts. No more ticking noises, Temps are good. Suggest the Aisin brand which cost me about $173 plus another $9.99 for the tool to remove the main pulley, don't go with the cheaper ones. Approximately $800 job at a shop.

[@robertgary3561]

Next up (due at the same time) is the valve timing. The exhaust valves get tight over time and Honda lists valve adjustments in the same service

[@johnnyt1621]

Where did you get kit for that price @Daniellameans

[@ryang5441]

@@johnnyt1621 rock auto

[@Bluecollaradv]

I got the aisin kit from amazon. It had a Mitsubishi (made in Thailand) belt. I’ll use it, but I kind of expected Japan for the price.

[@js_youtube70]

@@Bluecollaradv I too got the same kit and was disappointed with the timing belt, I had also ordered a Mitsuboshi serpentine belt and too was made in Thailand, I'm returning it back and have ordered a Honda belt. So frustrating 😤

[@TheBmco99]

Best video I’ve seen for any timing belt job I’ve been a Macanic for 45 years this kid did a excellent job 👍

[@hanandy92]

Not sure if someone else pointed this out but the engine block has a coolant drain fitting on the rear side of the engine (13-17 v6 models). I appreciate this video, great work.

[@ronaldclobes9340]

Yeah, but it still doesn't drain the water pump itself. Its going to make a mess no matter what, maybe just not as big. Ask me how I know.😄

[@joeaverage5347]

2007 Odyessy: used drain at back of block, just above & inboard of oil filter. Attached 1/4" clr plastic tube b4 openning - didn't spill a single drop! I had drained radiator with same method. When h2o pump came off, only about 3 drops of coolant came out. Absolutely ZERO mess.

[@saviorlife1]

Thank you. Saves a mess.

[@TankBYU]

I drained the block but there was still coolant trapped behind the water pump that spilled out. Probably not as much though.

[@jeff2235]

This is a great video. I put 161,000 miles on my 2015 Odyssey and I felt I shouldn't tempt fate and followed this instruction. I'm going to tell you what I found. You decide what it means. I found the old belt in perfect(yes, perfect) condition. It was pliable and wasn't stretched. It looked exactly like the new belt. I live in Southern California.(not the rust belt) Most of my driving is freeway miles, and I'm fairly easy on the car. I'm not representing myself as an expert, but if I had it to do all over again, I would drive the car another 100,000 miles before even re-thinking things. Oil/coolant leaks can degrade a belt, but I don't have them. There are a multitude of reasons you might not want to take this job on if unnecessary, but the simplest is It isn't pleasant. Don't buy into the timing belt hysteria. Take the vehicle and where and how you drive into consideration.

[@securityguy]

Mark the belt at TDC hash marks using a white marker and transfer the marks from old to new, this is the only sure way to keep the engine in time. You will 99% be 1 tooth off on the rear cam if you are a novice doing this.

[@johnjacoLMSW]

great tip!

[@lucasamick7940]

You are saying to mark all 3 sprockets at TDC and belt, then count the teeth between all of them on the new belt correct? Don’t mess with much timing belt stuff anymore. More gears in Diesel engines.

[@securityguy]

@@lucasamick7940 That's correct

[@lucasamick7940]

@@securityguy thank you sir. I sure as heck would not have done that.

[@shredder8910]

Lol yep, 1 tooth off on rear cam, just like you said. Too bad I had already taken off the belt before seeing this

[@JDH7900]

What a great video and so helpful! Thank You. By following this I was able to replace the belt and pump on my 2016 Pilot with no problems. I do have one recommendation. Use the release valve on the back side of the engine to drain your coolant from the block first. I did that and had almost no coolant flow out from the pump during the change. Thanks again!

[@RepairGeek]

In Ohio after about 5-10 years they like to break off in the block when you go to loosen them. In my environment, not worth the risk.

[@byronakhavi953]

Great video. This showed me that I am better served just taking the car to the shop and have a professional mechanic complete this job. The work is worth paying for considering the steps involved. Great review of the job and requirements. Thanks for the insight.

[@patm95]

I agree. Something I'd like to try but with the time involved and the repercussions if I messed it up, I'll take it to the shop.

[@franchisefred4066]

@@patm95 agreed. I’ll just pay $500 labor 😂😂😂

[@paulschneeman1476]

There are pros and cons to any decision. When I was still in HS changed out a VW trans axle, in the Winter with no lift. This was an excellent introduction which leaves very little to figure out for yourself.

[@Airedale721]

Awesome job! Where are you and could you do mine? I’m in NH

[@ragtie6177]

Excellent video. We are thinking very seriously about buying a used Pilot (awd) because of all of the great reviews and the last ability provided they are serviced and maintained with factory materials & products. The subject matter your video covers is at the very top of that list. Something like this is very important when looking to acquire a vehicle. Thank you.

[@adammatthews4628]

I used this video and got the job done with the vehicle on the ground. I left the power steering plumbing in place, but it was pretty annoying to have there. I used hand tools but would buy an air ratchet if I ever did it again. Thank you for all the details and torque specs.

[@beompark17]

How did you re-torque the Crankshaft bolt on the ground? I'm about to do this myself as well

[@adammatthews4628]

@@beompark17 put a long extension on the bolt (24"?). Put a jack stand under the extension close to where the torque wrench will attach. If necessary, put a cheater bar on the torque wrench. Also, I used a breaker bar to pin against the frame to hold the pulley tool in place. I did this same thing to remove the bolt. Hope this helps!! Good luck!

[@CebuanoDad]

At last, a belt replacement video that is clear and not shaky. Best video so far, the other belt videos from other youtubers are just plain unwatchable.

[@bobadams1696]

I watched your video months ago when I successfully installed a timing belt on a 2012 Accord V6. Now I’m replacing my son’s timing belt on his 2011 Pilot. So, I’m watching again. Content like this is so helpful. I subscribed. Thanks

[@warbux8030]

You're really good at this. I would not hesitate to take my car to get it done by you and I'm a Mechanic. Great video!

[@gowwould5266]

As a mechanic, of some years (built first motor in the 70's). I appreciate your video. For the same reasons as the rest. Only add I would suggest. Since I am blind in one eye and can't see out of the other. I use a paint marker on the timing marks. Thanks for the great video.

[@dcam2905]

I am eternally grateful for recommending using the 19 Milliliter harmonic balancer Honda socket. It was truly uneventful.

[@AL-pu1jx]

I really appreciate the info in this video - so I am going to pay forward some tips and tricks I learned while doing this on an odyssey. 1 - drain the coolant in the engine block and radiator. There is a drain just above the oil filter at rear of motor, 12mm - put a 1/4” hose on it and drain into reservoir, I got half a gallon out this way. You will still have some spill out of the water pump but not nearly as much. 2 - use a high impact torque with heavy socket like OP does. I broke a wrench trying to pry it off. With high impact socket it spins right off like in the video. 3 - buy new motor mount, you will probably need to replace this anyway, save the headache and have the part, might be wise to replace bolts at same time. In other belts I’ve done, this was recommended. One of the three bolts to the frame was severely rusted on mine, so I replaced it, would have been way easier to have the hardware ahead of time. 4- be very careful with water pump bolts, just hand tighten of you don’t have a light torque wrench. I busted one and was lucky enough to have enough threads to back it out. 5- as others have said, mark the old belt prior to removal and transfer marks to new belt as a safe guard. Mark any tooth that touches the belt on the crank sprocket, and a corresponding mark on the belt. Do the same for the cam sprockets, at TDC. Then count the teeth on the belt as you lay them side by side abs mark the same spots on the new belt. Re-count at least three times. It won’t take long, and you want to be certain your markings are the same. When you put the new belt on, you want those marks to line up with the marks on the sprockets. This is the only way to guarantee you will be in time. Route belt as OP explains keeping tension on the forward side, but make sure your marks line up. I had the rear cam sprocket move slightly back, and without my marks, it’s possible I wouldn’t have been able to notice. This is only way to ensure your in time, and you don’t want to be off by a single tooth. That’s about it. Expect this job will take you most of a day. Take your time, do it right, get the right tools. It’s a big job and total PITA, but beats paying a grand for someone else to do it for you.

[@amazenhazen1399]

Great tips. Much appreciated.

[@danielsifuentes6132]

Thanks for the tips. Our 16 Odyssey just hit 100k, so I'm making a grocery list of stuff I need before the van hits 105k.

[@reyb1972]

Nice video, one of the most detailed I have seen so far, I just did my wife 2010 Honda odyssey over the weekend. Something that I will really add to the work you did was draining of the coolant system. I will agree no point in draining the whole system from the radiator because it will not clear the coolant in the engine block, and it will spill just as much as it did in your video. The EASY way to get it done without draining the whole system; is by the drain plug/bolt in the engine block, it is locate 3 or 4 inches behind the hydraulic timing belt puller in the engine block…it is a cooper/aluminum bolt (the cooper is screw into the aluminum bolt). Spray some penetrating lubricant between the union of the two bolts, then hold the aluminum nut (17 mm) and unbolt just a little not all the way the cooper bolt (13 mm) you can put a 3/8” hose in the nipple (just like you drain the brake calipers) and catch the coolant into a container or bucket. You still will have some coolant when removing the water pump, but it is minimum. Not spill or mess at all… Cheers AGAIN, NICE JOB….

[@2nickles647]

Getting ready to do my kids oddessy.

[@thereplacementfordisplacement]

I was going to look for a block drain plug, glad to see there's a good chance there will be one. Was there any concerns that you would not be able to seal it back up? I've heard The Car Wizard say never use the radiator petcock but that's pretty obvious suggestion when you see they are often made of plastic.

[@TacoJoe]

Very wise move to manually turn over the engine after belt install and visually verify timing / great video 👍🏻 / I’m knee deep in belt replacement for my 2011 odyssey and your video was helpful / thank you!

[@80stavros]

Was is worth doing it your self I keep watching videos but I don't feel like doing it

[@cheath8705]

I know you had been stressing about NOT to turn the camshaft while routing the belt. Because I had experience in replacing several timing belts and a few chains, I went ahead against your advice on my Odyssey. Not to say your advice was wrong, I too worry about cam shifting. However, I did turn the cam because the old belt had stretched where the new belt will not fit. I will stress also that if you DO move the cam, DO NOT use ratchet. Use a breaker bar so it doesn't ratchet while shifting. Like someone commented under your video that warned 99% of the time will have one tooth off in the rear cam. I caught it plenty before I released the tensioner ring. Got it corrected by shifting the cam which was necessary but very very limited margin. I still believe your advice is still valid since there are many noobs watching how to on your video. I mainly watch your video because I dealt with a lot of older cars and modern ones tends to be more complex.

[@tomgrimmer947]

Very helpful video. I wanted to share what I did to ensure the belt was on properly with no slack. Before I removed the old belt, I used a white marking pen to mark a belt tooth and the corresponding notch on the cog at all three cog locations (both cams and the crank). I used the old timing belt after removal to mark the new timing belt at the exact three locations (same number of teeth between marks). The old and new timing belt teeth should be spaced exactly the same so I made sure the marks on the new belt perfectly match the marks on the old belt. I also found it very helpful to very slightly rotate the cam shaft clockwise a few degrees to get the belt on the exact location marked and the teeth properly seated in the cog. I then rotated the cam back (counter clockwise) a few degrees to make it taut. Make sure the marks on the cam and two crank cogs are properly aligned. This worked great for me and gave me the confidence to start the engine knowing the belt was on correctly. I notice that Mark Johnson in his comments below refers to the same method of marking the old and new belt.

[@joeaverage5347]

EXACTLY! THIS IS A MUST DO!!! The new belt is so darn tight I would have probably got it on a tooth off if I hadn't been shooting to match the position tooth-for-tooth. Just "taking out the slack" will NOT suffice.

[@TheRoostersGarage]

I appreciate this video detailing all the steps needed to replace the timing belt and water pump. I like how you also replaced the thermostat while you're in there. You have made my decision of spending my time versus having the shop handle it while the car is in for a recall issue. I'll stick to spending my time working on trucks where there is more room and I'll stop griping about the lack of space after seeing this. This is very tight quarters.

[@playlist55]

Excellent job! Really at a much higher level than other Videos like this. Hats off to you and thanks for doing it. I seldom go to the Library to look up a job in the Manuals anymore. I search for a good Video like this, much easier. I know you are not going to change the Video, but for anyone that reads this, start at the Rear cam and go to the Forward cam, then down to crank while maintaining tension throughout. Reason: Rear cam and water pump have rings on the outer portion that make it hard to get the belt over the cam and water pump. Very difficult to get the belt into the proper notch with the outer ring. I got all the way around starting with the front cam and then figured this out. So I reversed after putting it on the rear cam and tensioned from Rear cam to crank. Worked much better that way (front cam and crank do not have outer ring, so you can slide the belt into the notch. Note also that I temporarily tensioned the belt with a 1/4" to 3/8" tapered hardwood wedge instead of pulling the pin. This was a just in case so I would not have to re-compress and pin the tensioner. Worked slick. Again, great Video, thanks. P.S. I could not get the socket right away and I needed this done now. I had a strip of lead 3/8" thick (lol, I'm 65, I've acquired things). Wrapped it around my impact socket and tightened with hose clamps. Same effect, unsure if it would work, but worked exactly like your big socket.

[@brianjacobs247]

Superb job. The best I've seen. I'm getting up the nerve to replace the timing belt on my old 2000 Honda Odyssey that was given to me some years ago. Its over 211,000 miles, and probably had a timing belt change around 100,000, so its definitely due for replacement asap. Can't afford to take it in to the dealer, so... Thanks!

[@jameslund221]

Same here!

[@s.j.5850]

Best video I've seen on replacing the timing belt on the Honda V6 engine. You went step by step and added relevant comments when necessary. You did a fantastic job. I am considering buying a full size Honda V6 SUV so this is the perfect instruction video. I can just imagine what the repair shops / dealers are charging for this job.

[@s.j.5850]

@@ucesainbolt4572 Glad to be a DIYer at that price!

[@s.j.5850]

@@ucesainbolt4572 If in doubt take pictures - something I keep forgetting to do! The engineers seem to get a kick out of designing something different that does the same thing as a simple design. It sure does keep the DIYer on his toes! Good luck with your project. I do the same thing you do - buy the tools (and parts) & do the job yourself.

[@joequayzar4592]

Just called in last week and Honda wants 2400 for this job...f that .. thanks for the detailed video. one question though; are there any tips or tricks to ensuring the water pump goes back on securely instead of just waiting 'til you fill it to see if it leaks?

[@paulschneeman1476]

Just as a little warning, don't forget to disconnect your battery prior to doing any work. Or, you may very well find yourself at the Honda Dealer to have the computer rebooted/ cleared of codes which only the dealer can clear. Happened to me working on my Volvo.

[@grapeseed427]

Bro, you should teach auto repair. This is the best breakdown and explanation video I've ever watched.

[@alanfisher7347]

Your presentation is amazing. 10/10. You are a star in my opinion. You have all that it takes for sheer success. Thank you.

[@ayearetee3342]

I must have watched your video like 30x I have a 2004 honda pilot and a 2007 honda odyssey did both in a 2 week period. Odyssey timing belt busted while driving. Just shut off itself. Put on the new belt and it worked I was 1 of the lucky 1's

[@marcelot.3478]

Awsome detailed video man , thanks! I did my friend timing belt on a 2012 , and all good , I feel with confidence after watch your video couple of time, Thanks again !!!

[@josephgilbert3753]

Good job man. Thx for the help. Bought my wife a nice 2013 odyssey. 112k miles. Assumed that the timing belt had not been changed. I get it all apart….. AFTERMARKET PARTS! S**t

[@jeffneal1518]

I have a 2010 Honda Odyssey, i really enjoyed your vid. It cost $1700.00 here at the dealership. Thanks

[@cubichanga]

This one is the best video I ever watch on "HOW TO" a Honda Odyssey timing belt and water pump ... Keep going with the good work to help other how to save money as long as we willing to get our hand dirty with grease, oil and other stuff around the engine.. Appreciation is my first thing to say to you.. Thank you very much..

[@squidusn71]

I've never done a timing belt replacement and would never ever want to. However, if I have a lift I would definitely do it thanks to your video. I wish Honda just use chain instead.

[@Lrod.mobilemechanic]

I appreciate you showing the attempt with the milwaukee impact. I have the same one and thought I would be able to get it off without that other socket. Good info 🤙🏽

[@antoniobarbin8859]

Nicely done tutorial, every step explained . Its not all that difficult. Take your time,double check each step . Perfect !

[@paulschneeman1476]

Like my Father would say, you can probably do it if you take your time and, think about what you are doing.

[@dandrada1]

18 mins in and I was hooked. Subscribed. Both great production of the video itself and thorough steps to do this. Made me really think about my time vs paying to have timing belt done on my Odyssey.

[@Templares]

This is above my comfort level , but great video. Would need to watch it a few more times before I attempt to do this

[@thronewalker1153]

I’m in the process of doing it my first time. Been working at it for a couple hours. Got the water pump out and decided to take a short break. Reassembly soon.

[@TYMWLTL]

Good step by step video. Clear speak with no extra noise. And now I'm an expert DYIer. Thanks.

[@joeaverage5347]

Great video! Thank you!!! I tightened the crank bolt w/ heavy socket, 1/2" impact on max with 100psi in the hose. Got the 60deg w/ 2 10sec blasts. Marked the bolt head and damper with paint so i could judge the bolt rotation. I just could not get 60deg on my back w/ the breaker bar & cheater. Guess i need to work out more. But the impact/socket is sooo easy!

[@jesse1247]

This may be the best car repair video I have ever seen

[@RepairGeek]

Lol thanks. I have more too. Thanks for watching.

[@markathey723]

Thx for keeping it to the point and not rambling. My attention span is too short for most videos, good job and thanks

[@grad0n]

I did my first timing belt job on a 2013 odyssey yesterday(I’ve built jeep 4.0s with timing chains)! Thank you for the video. I did have to buy the special thick crank socket, crank hold-tool, and use my brother’s new ryobi(4’ breaker did nada). Continental put the wrong size belt in the kit, so had to buy a dayco locally.

[@beompark17]

Which Ryobi product did you use? would 4-mode brushless impact driver be ok? or you actually got an impact Wrench?

[@yimyzuniga2139]

Thank you very much for your video, very professional and thank you for providing the torque measurements. I failed with the water pump because I did not torque the screws correctly, and it was left leaking. Greetings from here in California.

[@1745vlad]

my OEM Honda coolant is green to, I got personally from Honda dealer , so I don’t know why are you talking about wrong coolant. Thank you for great video, now I’ll do it by my self!

[@sonyyoung1036]

Thanks for showing where to line the timing marks on the crank pulley and mark on the block. It was not obvious on other videos.

[@robertgary3561]

Just be careful with the parallax. Make sure you’re looking right down the line at the marks. Especially on the rear cam. Sometimes I’ll take a ruler or piece of paper to make sure I’m looking straight on.

[@therealRustyShackleford]

Alright, step one: buy a lift... I'm a mechanic and this was a very well made video. Good job!

[@wilsmith9230]

Hello sir. I am 15 and want a accord v6 6mt. But my dad is scared for the timing belt. How much does it cost for a mechanic to do it? Also how much does honda charge for doing it? Thank you

[@kensimon4478]

is there any way to do this job without a lift? looks like a lift will be critical only in tightening the crankshaft bolt. i have milwaukee impact gun, leslie 19mm socket, crankshaft holding tool, torque wrench, 3 ton jack, stands.

[@MM-ln4ym]

@@wilsmith9230 FYI --- A dealer may charge up to $1200 to change a timing belt on your car depending on where you are located and the labor rate, but could be a little less. Independent garages charge less --- i have heard as little as $750, but probably more like $850. It is time consuming --- probably as much as 5 - 6 hours. Also, I suggest buying the entire kit from Honda, not any aftermarket parts. On my 2003 Acura TL-S I have to change my belt every 7 years or 100k miles. I am on my 3rd belt.

[@MM-ln4ym]

@@kensimon4478 Also, if you use any independent garage, make sure they have done this job before on a Honda/Acura and it is an experienced mechanic. It must be done correctly.

[@kensimon4478]

@@MM-ln4ym I have seen the work done on 2 odysseys and wanted to do it myself so I bought the major tools to do the work myself. I just don't have a lift. I just have jack stands and a 3ton jack and ramps. I have a Milwaukee impact, Leslie 19mm, 3/8 long neck and getting a 3/8 impact socket set.

[@radiospank]

The heavy socket with the impact gun you have is why I used and it came off so easily. Good video with good angles on important parts

[@js_youtube70]

Thank you for the tutorial, I thought I would be able to tackle this job but I couldn't get the crank shaft bolt off so I threw in the towel 😕. your instructions were very good BTW, I almost felt like I could do it after watching this like 20 times.. 😂

[@robertsheph8858]

This was a great video. Very helpful, but honestly I'd say this is not a job for the feint of heart. Here's some of my notes from my experience YMMV: Timing belt notes 2013 Honda Pilot - while the nightmare is still fresh in my mind 1) It seems like the overarching idea that Honda is trying to convey is that you’d be way better off taking it to them in terms of time and aggravation. It’s as if they’ve gone out of their way to make this unnecessarily difficult. This job took me about 8 hours with all of the other maintenance that needed to be done with it. Some of that was taking things apart and doing it again. Block out a day and it will probably take most of it. 2) The A/C lines are right in the way of everything you need to work on. The power steering pump, the mount, the serpentine belt tensioner, the computer, and even some of the bolts for the timing belt cover. Be very careful not to break those lines. 3) The maintenance says to change the radiator fluid. Radiator drain valve is in a messed up spot. Cut a piece of closet clothes rail that I had left over and notched it to serve as a tool. 4) Don’t take the plug out all the way though. Or you will need lots of cat litter to clean up the mess. I’m using the 50/50 pre mix of the blue fluid. 5) Just like the video says even though you drain it they leave plenty in the engine so when you pull the water pump off it’s sure to go everywhere. 6) You will not remove the front pulley without a harmonically balanced socket. Even with it there was several minutes of hammering on it before it finally broke free. And breaker bar? fughettaboutit. 7) I pushed the idler by hand to make sure nothing is going to move. When I did the back cam moved two teeth because of the slack and I got to start over and line everything up again. DO NOT REMOVE THE PIN. I realize this is a little different than the video, but putting it on it’s really difficult to make sure there’s no slack, and the only way I was able to test it before reassembly was to do it the way I did. 8) It’s a pain in the behind to put that hydraulic tensioner back on with the belt in place. But less painful then other ideas I had. Put the bottom bolt on first. Yes the one behind the oil pressure sender (in the 2013 model). What a great place to put that. Thanks again mr engineer. Once the bottom bolt is in you can apply pressure to the bottom of the tensioner to align the top bolt and get it started. There’s no room to work in there. The only way I could get to the bottom bolt was with a wrench a fraction of a turn at a time. Torque specs for all those 10mm bolts (tensioner and timing belt cover) is 104 inch pounds. 9) Once every thing is back together and you’re sure there’s no slack anywhere except for the idler pull the pin. 10) Rotate the engine from the front pulley a full 360 twice and make sure all the marks still line up. 11) If you have to recompress that tensioner to put the pin back (as I did) I put it in a vice and used a big clamp to compress it so I could put the pin back in. 12) Don’t drop anything behind the engine while doing the plugs. There’s a whole bunch of stuff for it to get lost in. Had to recover my ratchet with a telescoping grabber. And no way to get your hand up in there from underneath either.

[@yimyzuniga2139]

Muchas gracias por tu video, muy profesional y gracias por facilitar las medidas de torque. Fallé con la bomba de agua porque no ajusté bien los tornillos y quedó goteando. Saludos desde aquí en California.

[@roosterq3209]

Great informative step by step instructions. I hope I can do this now because I really need to right about now 😅😅😅 I just got a pilot for 500$ and it needs this done

[@wickedninja8599]

I was looking to do this myself, and this video made me realize this is above my head.

[@ryant2407]

Thanks for making such a great video on this, really helped me get a feel for the job. A bunch of the maintenance intervals on my Pilot just lined up and even the lowest estimate I got is still big money. I've been doing my own oil changes for about two years now so I did some research and I've done everything except the belt/pump but unfortunately I think this is a little above my skill level. If I had a backup car I'd probably try it myself but if I screwed this up it could turn into a serious mess.

[@CTSpook6]

Nice video. Some engines have a coolant drain plug on the engine block but these drain plugs aren't always easy to get to.

[@harlanhuelle431]

Well done and very professional a parts company should hire you as a install representative!

[@mikepark1219]

Great video and on-point. To remove the 19mm Crank Bolt, I did buy the harmonic Socket but my Milwaukee 3/8 Impact with 700lb-ft loosening torque did not work so I bought a Milwaukee 1/2 Impact with 1,400lb-ft loosening torque to extend my tool collection and it took it right off. Also, I made the mistake of not having the engine mount bracket in alignment with the engine mount so it sheared the engine mount bracket and bolt so I ordered a new bracket and bolt.

[@willdur2385]

Bro you have the best video explaining this.. you save me 1200 dollar job

[@michaeldarrow6021]

Great job....keep posting Honda videos please. You're great to watch !

[@atm9566]

Makes life alot easier if you take the pcm out. Its three connectors and 3 bolts. Makes more room to remove the motor mount, pump and the timing belt covers. If ur replacing the timing belt, always good idea to replace that side motor mount. It's usually leaking or torn up.

[@soon2bmore]

About to purchase a 2015 Honda Pilot. Timing belt has been changed but I am pretty sure the water pump as not. It has 115,000. Will probably be tackling this soon!! Thank you!!!

[@supersabrosinho]

Worrying about coolant to water ratio, and using tap water to flush ??? 🥴 Great video quality. Great production!

[@kaimanson3174]

Great video! Thanks for sharing. Something I did in my Ody as a first timer when I did mine was to mark the belt as well before removing it and transfer the marks to the new belt and match it to the marks on the pulleys when installing it back

[@glasser2819]

this is a brilliant idea to have confidence in proper timing

[@bigozo1981]

Yep thats how I do it. Once I was off by one tooth and I learned a big lesson

[@poshpageboy8417]

Best diy channel on KZbin I watched ur other vid on valve adjustments and it was a pretty easy job, I think im going to try the water pump next with this one

[@scottchaussee8107]

I just did timing belt in my 2012 cross tour. Thank you so much for the video absolutely stellar! 👍

[@paulheinz2145]

Pretty good job. You make it look simple. You comments and instruction are shott and complete in terms of the job. I like your style. I am now sure I can get this done in under week or two. Thanks

[@marklilly7197]

Thanks for your video. Timing belt is now changed. Started right up. Keep up the good work. I used that same socket with a high torque impact and it still did not break it loose though. I had to break it loose old school. The step by step and torque values were helpful. Although if your at 100,000 miles draining the radiator is not a huge waste; unless it had already been done. My fluid was a bit nasty. Usually if I flush a radiator I used distilled water. I buy a bunch of jugs. I had read that tap water can react with the radiator fluid and cause problems down the road. But overall good job.

[@saviorlife1]

Everything they said in the comments right back at you. And your watchers also had some great tips. Thank you for this award winning video.

[@mrweisu]

Great video. Hope you can show how to replace cam and crank seals and oil pump later. That's a complete video.

[@spiculum1836]

Good video. Thanks for the reminder about not turning the cams because its an interference engine.

[@aaronschen9896]

Great vid very informative, that heavy socket is magic, my old school brushed milwaukee zipped off the crank pully no problem

[@atm9566]

Easier of you put the idler pulley in before the belt. I personally do all of this from the top. But I also take the pcm out. Seen people do it from the bottom. All honda techs will do from the top. Just time saver in the long run. Great job. I added few comments for extra tips.

[@thenexthobby]

Seen your comments here and appreciate them. Gaining the confidence to tackle my '06 Accord (cramped space) so that our '06 Pilot is the "easy" one. They both need it done.

[@kaimanson3174]

I'll save this video to watch it in 8 year or 96kmiles whichever come first....great video + advices 👍 don't forget that Milwaukee fuel 2767 + leslie socket

[@anthonyo9787]

Well done video one of the best I’ve seen well detailed and great presentation I’m a Mechanic myself Great job 👏🏾

[@bradstoybox8811]

I just ordered that socket because I'm having the same issue as you did getting the crank bolt out with my impact. I've done many of these over the years but they are usually in the car and I can use a breaker bar and the starter to snap them loose. On the bench / stand you don't have that option. I have a holding tool and breaker bars but that tool is bending and the bolt won't let go. So fingers crossed, this will work. Oh and that socket is $63 if you are Canadian!!!

[@pastorammo]

Who would dislike this video? Great work!

[@stevophillips4121]

CoolVid, got the 2 crank tools, ordered the socket last,since last weekend was fighting the crank bolt....Doing my buddies '12 Crosstour, work cat AGAIN tomorrow, now that I have the special socket lol. Pretty easy job actually when you have the RIGHT tools lol. Been a tech 40+ years, autos to semi's, go figure my 40+ year tool collection, still have to buy now n then more tools, even retired hahaha. They will miss their lifelong mechanic soon, when I move to the Philippines. Even retired I been busy here working on their damn cars , so much for relaxing huh. A lift would make it soooo much easier, than flat backing it on the garage floor !!

[@k_escobar917]

Great video brother. I left it up the my mechanic to tackle this job but I wanted to see what they had to deal with. Love my 2010 Crosstour but a timing chain would of been a better option than a rubber belt!

[@Combat556]

Outstanding work, and thank you for the incredible instruction. Enjoyed the video. Thank you.

[@Coodeville]

I give you a lot of credit for doing this. Great job!

[@rototiller78]

I'm in the middle of doing the timing belt job on my '06 Honda Odyssey EX-L and I bought that special $20 Lisle 19mm harmonic balancer socket too. I have the Kobalt XTR ½" drive impact wrench 24V that is rated to 1200 lbs-ft of breakaway torque. Like you, I wanted to see if a regular 19mm impact socket would work and it zipped that bolt right off to my surprise. My battery was at full charge and your Milwaukee was @ ¾ charge. That may be the culprit. Thanks for the video. 👍

[@groth3395]

This is probably the best car repair video I've ever seen. I learned enough to a) not attempt this myself and b) not buy a Honda with a V6 (ha ha). Your explanation was top-notch and undoubtedly invaluable to the shade tree mechanics not afraid to tackle the job.

[@atm9566]

That timing belt guide that goes over the key is very important. Hey talks about the correct way to install it in the video. If it gets put on backwards it will eat into the timing belt and it will fail. Ive seen one drive for almost a year before it failed. All from that one part.

[@paulmcgovern9173]

Nice Job!! Clear and concise!! I have a 2017 Ridgeline that will need a TB soon! Thanks for the video!

[@unacosadelocos2022]

I learned a lot watching, I lack practice, I would have to buy many tools. A hug, very nice video

[@lp2733]

Just hit the 👍 and Subscribed... Excellent instructional video, you’re a natural instructor 👏. I own a 2017 Ridgeline and are 80K away from this process. You made it seem easy even though in reality I’m sure it is not. Hope to see more 2nd Gen Ridgeline/Pilot work. Thanks for sharing 👍

[@relaxinglife8329]

thank you man, straight to the point great descriptions, keep up the good work

[@angeliamattingly]

I'm taking my 2008 Honda Odyssey Ex-L to a mechanic because we just bought it and have no idea when the time belt was changed. It's 129,000 miles. The crazy thing is they had no idea what type 2 antifreeze was. I'm like for Honda. I said it's blue. There like never used that before 🤦🏻‍♀️ so just bought that 2. Maybe if you lived in Texas we would come to you.

[@dvcavall]

Best video yet, but one wish. I have yet to find a video that actually explains what to do IF... you screw up and the timing marks don't align after the install and rotating the engine, or the belt was not tensioned right and a tooth was off? That is what I worry about. Everything doesn't always go right and how to correct those issues is what I would like to know as I am about to start on my 2004 Honda Pilot. Otherwise, great video!

[@danielzimnoch4365]

Happened to me when I did this yesterday. I aligned the marks in all three spots, took the belt off, water pump etc. When I was placing the new timing belt, the rear cam turned clockwise about a few inches, ooops, I probably put too much tension on the belt. Thought I ruined it. Nope, adjusted it back to where is supposed to be and the van runs great. And all I did is turn the cam back to its original setting. After all was installed I turned the engine about 4 times and everything was smooth. Happy me.

[@nwinawe]

Great video! Yes, that crank bolt is a real pain. On my 91 Accord had to buy an Ingersoll Rand 2141 3/4 impact to get it off (did it with a regular impact socket). Wish I knew about the specialty socket at the time, my 1/2 impact probably would've gotten it.

[@wheresbrent]

Nice crystal clear how-to. Well done.

[@ipleedafif8033]

I think the hood holder rod is always in the way. I usually use another rod on the other side giving me a clearer area to work on top.

[@RB-vt9ku]

Once you pulled that engine mount I would love to have seen how you held the motor in place going up and down with the lift. Love the video very well put together.

[@RepairGeek]

There are 3 other mounts holding the engine and trans in. With it out the engine wobbles a little bit but isn't going to even come close to falling out.

[@RB-vt9ku]

@@RepairGeek thank you for the info that helps a lot

[@thetdiguy3140]

Thank you for making this video. It made the job a lot easier.

[@dannysautorepair]

One of the best videos out there, thank you

[@joeseda8102]

Good job and explanation! That timing belt was just about to BREAK soon.