Repairing PARKSIDE PLG 20 A3 4.5A Charger

#ErCanEverything #Parkside #Charger
💥In this video I will show you how to repair a 4.5A PARKSIDE Charger
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[@Tugitu]

I have same issue with my charger, now i am going to repair it. Thanks you much for sharing such valuable information.

[@sthildas4857]

We were taught to use earth strap plus working on a static mat, great job thx.

[@asdreww]

How did you identify which components were damaged?

[@mbk1251]

This a lot I just feel returning to lide s bc their the order components waiting will try after shop visit Thanks again video

[@sthildas4857]

The charger is another supplier you have to contact them.. The battery an additional supplier,on the back of the battery itself, S/N plus LAN No.

[@GabiFodorrasRO]

Felicitari pentru acest frumos videoclip !

[@ErCanEverything]

Thank you my Friend🤝🤝🤝

[@electronic7979]

Güzel bir tamir videosu

[@ErCanEverything]

Teşekkür ederim ustam🤝🤝🤝

[@sddiymakeitworthit7512]

That’s nice job 👍

[@ErCanEverything]

Thank you my Friend🤝🤝🤝

[@HouseMastersTools]

Good Work 🛠

[@ErCanEverything]

Thank you my Friend

[@agentarz]

Add a larger cooling fin, a heatsink, to this transistor. It breaks down because it overheats!

[@danzam1556]

Hello, thanks for the video. The two 8 pin SMD ICs on the underside of the PCB, what are the codes for these, please? What is their use? Thanks

[@orlatris96]

Hello, I liked your video, I just didn't understand how you came to the conclusion about the broken components you changed. Could you explain it to me? thanks

[@ErCanEverything]

Basically I checked visually first, but there was nothing. Then I measured the voltage to the transistor, the voltage was stable. And I first doubted the transistor and optocoupler I had on hand and changed them without measuring them. As you can see in the video the mosfet works but this problem only did it under load and there was no way to catch it with a multimeter

[@orlatris96]

@@ErCanEverything thank you

[@Raulmexp]

how do you know wich elements needs to be changed? visual inspection? or for experience?

[@ErCanEverything]

Basically I checked visually first, but there was nothing. Then I measured the voltage to the transistor, the voltage was stable. And I first doubted the transistor and optocoupler I had on hand and changed them without measuring them. As you can see in the video the mosfet works but this problem only did it under load and there was no way to catch it with a multimeter

[@Raulmexp]

@@ErCanEverything thanks, i´m learning a lot with your videos, please keep doing it.

[@ErCanEverything]

Thank you my Friend🙏🤝🤝🤝

[@MrBlablablablablabl4]

I also have a charger like this (from 2016, mind you) that is broken. No lights when plugged in, although I hear a very faint rhythmic clicking sound. Fuse is OK, there's continuity. I've already ordered a new one, but I still would like to fix this because I hate throwing away stuff because of (likely) just one faulty component. I have already replaced a burnt through 47 Ohm resistor (by a 45 one, mind you), but this didn't solve the issue. So I don't know if this is typical optocoupler behaviour, but any input is very much appreciated.

[@doctormicro]

👍👍👍😍😍😍

[@ErCanEverything]

🙏🙏🙏🤝🤝🤝

[@ΣΤΑΥΡΟΣΓΚΕΡΛΕΣ]

Any suggestions of a totally dead 4.5 a charger with not burnt fuse?

[@olivebcx634]

same problem. Do you know where is the fuse? I did not identify it

[@electronicsbyjohn]

QBxx PWM. (6 pins ic)

[@valdaskdn]

maybe you know how to turn on the charger without the parkside battery, to charge batteries from other companies?

[@orlatris96]

Hello friend. I'm your follower and I really appreciate your work, your knowledge, and that's why I ask you to please answer me. I have parkside X20Team batteries, can I use the bms from a 2A battery and put it in another 4A battery? Thanks a lot for the help

[@ErCanEverything]

Thank you for your support🙏🤝 Yes you can do it, but you must know it will charge a maximum of 4A instead of 4.5A. If you have a Smart Charger it will charge a maximum of 3.8A. But if you do the opposite of 4A battery BMS put in 2A and charge with a Smart Charger, know that will blow or smoke your Battery, because Smart Battery Charger will recognize that you put 4A battery and will run 7,8A and it is fatal.

[@orlatris96]

@@ErCanEverything thanks for your answer. Sorry but I didn't understand correctly. I realized that I can use bms. but do i have to use a charger less than 4v? If using a 4.5v charger can the battery explode? thanks friend for the help

[@ErCanEverything]

If you put BMS from 2A to 4A battery, you will have no problems, and the charging current will be a maximum of 4A. And this will not affect at all🙂

[@ErCanEverything]

I wanted to warn you not to put BMS from 4A battery to 2A, because their firmware is different. The 4A BMS will want to charge the 7.8A batteries in the Smart Charger, and that won't be good. But you can always put a BMS from a low-power 2A battery to a High power 4A battery.🙂

[@orlatris96]

@@ErCanEverything Now I understand, your explanation makes perfect sense. a big thank you friend, much success to you. a hug

[@linomax9790]

Tell me which zener diode ZD1? How many volts? Thank you.

[@electronicsbyjohn]

ZD1= 15volts

[@a100sempreconLei]

Hello, could You help me with advice? I have model Parkside 20-Li A1-2 rapid charger 4A, this charger has 4 contacts("+", "BS", "TV", "-") can I charge X20vTEAM battery 2A, 4A with this charger? Or should I disconnect the "BS" contact on the charger?

[@andpan3478]

do you know how to trick the charger to give always 20V ? i mean right now it gives nothing until you put the battery , i want to use it to charge different 20 V battery , but seems that the ID contatct has some logic on it and the charger won't give you 20-21V on iddle

[@ErCanEverything]

After the transformer there is a capacitor, I think it was 35V, there is a constant voltage of 21V. But I'm not talking about a 400V capacitor!

[@suleijman228]

hi ercan do you know how to skip the id pin to charge antoher brands batterys

[@ErCanEverything]

I haven't tried the charger, but it works in this drill. It should also work in the charger, but the voltage of another brand of battery should also be 18 - 20V kzbin.info1-dOLZn0lj0?feature=share

[@alexxcar88]

Could you provide the references for the components?

[@raresvintea1]

How can i make to lower the charging current, sometimes they force cells but when i have time i want to charge them slowly. There are shunts resistors or how it determines the current?

[@iwanlatev8218]

You can buy the smart version 👍🏻

[@jamesward5721]

This fault - same applies to the 12v range btw- is the achilles heel of Parkside cordless tools - or one of them - IMO their 18V range is a whole ball of dung altogether - there's always an achilles heel with "Cheap" - you're better off just buying a new crappo parkside charger & hoping it lasts for a while more. It too will break soon, but there you go. Maybe you'll get lucky and the tool will crap the bed first.. always highly possible too.... Mostly Junk IMO & I've bought far too many. Cheap is always seductive.. for a short while..

[@AAAlexAlex]

Что за элемент Q6 -?

[@amobenpro]

How did you know that the optocoupler is defected?

[@adrianmircea4474]

You can measure it. Two of the four pins should display the diode value...0.6-0.7V on diode scale of multimeter

[@ErCanEverything]

Optocoupler tester kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJbRnmSpjKx-h8U

[@GirolamoCipullo]

I due integrati da 8 pin che sigle hanno?

[@goranpavlovic9628]

Which optocoupler is this?

[@kosipotok]

I have this charger with broken ic Q6, do you know someone what is it? Damaged IC can not read.

[@goranpavlovic9628]

My optocoupler is Burned, I am asking for help

[@cristianogomes4017]

How you see the promblem?

[@ErCanEverything]

Basically I checked visually first, but there was nothing. Then I measured the voltage to the transistor, the voltage was stable. And I first doubted the transistor and optocoupler I had on hand and changed them without measuring them. As you can see in the video the mosfet works but this problem only did it under load and there was no way to catch it with a multimeter

[@wearebacteria]

what about the 12V charger?!

[@ftm2206]

how to spoof the id pin to start charging with no battery?

[@tomasstepanonis5414]

What is C9 component?

[@ErCanEverything]

This is ceramic capacitor why?

[@tomasstepanonis5414]

@@ErCanEverything mine was broken. Board was cracked and components C9, R19 and R38 was missing. I am not electrician, but I want repair it by my self. I don't know what their values are. Your response and videoare only help I found

[@ErCanEverything]

I now disassembled the charger, desoldered the capacitor to measure it properly🙂 C9 = 240pF R19 = 100 Ohm R38 = 10K Ohm

[@tomasstepanonis5414]

What voltage? You are amazing 🤩

[@ErCanEverything]

21,6V

[@ser9397]

What is the number of the diode? Who can help me 😊

[@emilyfitz-wv3gl]

My charger is over year old. Has packed up why

[@zvon8294]

I have 2 questions for you: 1. This charger “fills” battery up to 21,6V max, then green lamp “says” it’s full and current drops. When we want to charge battery up to 60…80%, for storage, it’s problem how to detect when to stop charging. My idea is to put one silicium diode (1N400x) between charger and charging contact, to obtain voltage drop of about 0,7V and “cheat” charger that battery reached 21,6V, whether there’s ~20,9V on battery. Can it be functional like this? 2. Did you open newer type of chargers, PLG20 C1&C3? Is it any difference inside or in functionality, as they are recommended for newer batteries with cell balancing (Like PAP20B1 & B3)?

[@ErCanEverything]

I don't have the new type of chargers, but I don't think there will be any changes. I did a test for charging with 3 different chargers 2,4A, 3.5A and 4.5A, these chargers charge up to ~ 20.5V and here is the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJ7JfGmdqqqBZ6c But the new Smart Charger charges about 21.5V