Replace a Cylinder Head Gasket Yourself and do it RIGHT! Part 2

Part 2 of 2. Part 1 can be found here:
• Replace a Cylinder Hea...

[@Dr2009king]

This man is the most professional Mechanic i have seen in KZbin, cares about details, accurate, cares about poor people .. a good example fora human being .

[@derekthomasgriffin]

Sh Mane check out oldskool funk.

[@adamswartz7670]

Couldn’t agree more

[@ericdandridge622]

Very discreet and informative. Concise info.

[@movingupautodiagnostics8645]

This is by far the best head gasket replacement video I've seen, lots of info and very detail oriented. Thanks Matt. Have fun in Pittsburgh.

[@timothyryan6992]

Thank you for taking the time to do this for all of those interested. I watched both of your videos in their entirety as I tackle my first HG job. Watched at 1.5X speed and took notes when it came time to installation of HG to try to give a "step by step". Here they are: •Spray wd-40 on block and heads to prevent rust •Use compressed air to clean galleries and bolt holes •Use a thread chaser to clean bolt holes •Spray out bolt holes again with compressed air •Degrease block and head-use use acetone (on blue towels) generously-clean gloves and no lint left behind •Clean out pistons with oiled up towel, making sure to degrease after if not done already •Don’t drop, bend or deform head gasket and make sure hands are perfectly clean •Make sure you place the gasket with the right side up-the fire rings touching are the ultimate indicator •Be very particular about torqueing! Check torque calibration by setting close to the highest torque setting to be used, measuring from the center of where socket will go socket to the center of the handle (look for groove?), taking that value divided by 12 (ex 45=1.3*X) and solve for X. X is the weight that you need to place at that point on the handle to get torque wrench to “click”. Do this on tire lug…tie the weight (X) onto handle. Use pinky to lightly press if necessary. •Place gasket locator ring? •Clean cylinder head gasket with acetone and surfaces again •Use straws in corner bolt holes to align head to block •Brush on grease where bolt head meets surface. Place spacer washers (if applicable) and apply more grease. •Add a little oil to headbolt threads, avoid runniness, use finger to smooth out •Flush bolts to surface, no torqueing •Follow manufacturing torque sequence/specs. •Use as short extension as possible and have smooth continuous, fluid motion when torqueing. Doublecheck torque in sequence before advancing to higher torque. •Mark bolt heads in case calibration is lost when doing an angle torque. Get angle gauge from Lisle?

[@cdmoyle]

I have watched all your videos, from 12 ways of how to test a blown gasket (part 1 & 2), I then watched your Replace a cylinder head gasket yourself (part 1 & 2) and I think you are brilliant, informative, smart and practical. I agree with everything you have shown and done. I am a qualified Heavy Vehicle Diesel mechanic, 20 years ago (in Australia) I have learned a lot from you. Well done, Excellent instructions...

[@gun4hire_albertsteury]

You are by far the best, most knowledgeable, professional, and entertaining mechanic on the web. After seeing your video, which was just by accident and the day before I was going to slap my 2.2 liter back together, I followed your instruction and found that my head was warped. So thank you from the bottom of my heart for posting these 2 videos. It took me 5 days to tear down my 2.2 liter to the block, because I am not a mechanic, did not have the right tools, and did not have air tools at that. So thank you for not putting me through that again. I can't wait to see more of your mastery and common sense, its addictive!

[@SchrodingersBox]

hahaha thanks man, and I am really glad you measured the warp before just slapping a gasket in!!!

[@jimmyg197]

I've learned more from you at an easier pace and better visual demonstrations than I learned at a school that I had to pay for so thank you for caring and helping people to understand stuff...

[@deajei]

You speak my language. Not simply how but why. I'm not a mechanic so I can't comment on the technical specifics, but you do a solid job of explaining everything in layman's terms. Thanks!

[@mike333h]

Great video, I have been an aircraft mechanic for 17 years and I learned something about torque wrenches today. One thing a lot of people don't know is if you start using extensions and adapters there is a formula to get proper torque.

[@andybilakshow260]

It's all basic physics which most people don't have a clue.

[@labradormcgraw]

This guy just gets better. A whole hour of first class tuition from a master of science. Absolutely no BS - just clear, concise instruction. Faultless.

[@bloodsuckingclown]

I was actually looking for something else, but came across these two videos. Ended up watching them to the end, just because you made it interesting and informative - and I learned a lot. You are very good at explaining things :)

[@SchrodingersBox]

bloodsuckingclown Thanks man! Serendipity leads to the best discoveries!

[@s.adanulloa3902]

Forgot to mention the one liners and the histerical sarcasm!

[@TheSilverSurfisher]

Dude! You aint anything short of a straight up mechanically lyrical enhanced analytically inclined, brilliant, all-around- genius and Master Jedi Knight! LOL! And remember....with Great Knowledge sharing comes Ungrateful Hating... But I believe I share this notion with the masses as I say to you, Thanks for sharing your plethora of detailed knowledge with us all and Thanks for all you do!

[@SchrodingersBox]

Thanks bro!

[@tomtgm]

I am a carpenter, and a mechanic of general buildings. I understand automotive mechanics, but I am not one. I have to repair my wifes Saturn. It is burning coolant out the tail pipe. I am so glad I found this video, this has been and is a blessing to me as I start this project that I am dreading. Just wanted to say THANK YOU.

[@stratfink]

I had a career that put me in front of people all over the country, plain talking the whys and hows in a different technical field. You are a gifted teacher. I love seeing a gift shared. thanks for showing me the right next step for my hot head honda

[@thr3adh3ad]

I love how in depth you've gone with these vids. I'm an ole country boy thats always managed to get the job done one way or another,but I've always appreciated people that do the shit right the first time

[@billsmeets1122]

These 2 parts of this videoset are sooooo much more than what the titel makes you think! well done man, i'm learning a lot from you. definitly subscribed!

[@paulmax72]

I'm going to watch again but this time I'm taking notes. I plan on using all his knowledge to the best of my ability. Thank you Schrodingers your a excellent teacher.

[@SchrodingersBox]

That's how I learned this stuff. Many notes. I still refer to them all the time in fact.

[@rustysteel8714]

Schrodinger ROCKS! Absolutely the best video on repairing a blown gasket. Your meticulous explanations and reasoning are spot-on. I recognized a true machinist, the tell was when you talked of the "feel" of the head bolt tightening. KUDOS! Are you a teacher by chance? Side story: BFF and I (gearheads both) determined my 02/f-150/5.4l/83k had a leak into the cooling system (no dis intended ford fans). Considered Barrs/Blue Devil stuff, but we couldn't do that to the mechanic who will end up fixing it. After cruising KZbin and seeing the difficulty involved (double overhead cams, no less), I came to a conclusion....trade it in! Chances of finding a mechanic who would pay the same attention to detail as you? Near impossible in this day and age. One misstep and it's a big fail. Thanks for the education.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Thanks Paul, no I am not a teacher by trade or anything but as part of my job I often have to teach molecular biology concepts to laypeople- thus my knack for making analogies and explanations most people can comprehend easily. But mainly it is something others on the channel have mentioned... pride in one's work. I take great pride in my thorough, meticulous, and detailed attention to every job I do, knowing the person will be getting a correct diagnosis and often better than professional repair. Thanks for noticing!

[@rustysteel8714]

Schrodingers Box I'm jealous, your neighbors are lucky people, even with the occasional 2AM burnout! LOL Thanks again for the great videos.

[@mitchellbennett4606]

Found your channel today in perfect time. My 86 Toyota pickup "blew a head gasket" a few days ago and because of your videos (and enough shade tree mechanic experience with my brother growing up) I decided to tackle the job myself. I got started and removed the intake and exhaust, set top dead center, pulled the valve cover off and gave myself a pat on the back as it has gotten dark. Tomorrow I will pull the head, check for warping and find a machine shop. I really can not thank you enough for your wonderfully detailed videos.

[@speakingtonganwiththetutuu8421]

Thanks Matt for a great video!! I’m not a mechanic, English is my second language but your video encourage me to learn more

[@lazmedina]

Never plan on replacing a head gasket myself, yet I saw your videos end to end because they were so informative and interesting. You offer such great detailed explanations and rationales for doing what you do. Thanks for the vids!

[@wither8]

You only charged $400 for that whole job? Damn you're the nicest auto pro ever. Great videos as usual, love to hear the rationale, whether it's on AvE's channel re: industrial engineering, Applied Science's channel re: electrical engineering, that ol' timer Tubalcain machinist's channel, or yours re: automotive engineering. 4 of the best!Keep at it! edit - not a Haynes manual jockey but a nerd none the less - LB is a unit of mass not weight ;)

[@SchrodingersBox]

+wither8 I consider it a hobby not a revenue source. KZbin is my revenue source from this hobby

[@taimank]

I thought so, long time until my physics professor told me lb used to be the unit for weight and not mass.

[@luxorbill269]

Best hour I ever spent watching KZbin videos. If you have a shop, I'm sending all my cars to you. Most conscientious mechanic ever. Great instructor. Thanks so much. Bill

[@SchrodingersBox]

Thanks man, I am actually a DIY- I mostly just do this stuff for charity for the elderly, disabled and such.

[@therollie420]

its like Sheldon got obsessed with motors.. love it

[@patricianotyad5791]

PLEASE READ THIS! Can I just say that it is refreshing to hear your logical way of thinking during this project. The bolt monolog, to use or not to use... is a perfect example! Try not to let the haters and trolls get to you. I needed to find your channel this morning, for the very reason you said you were making this video! I have a car that needs work I can't afford to have someone else do, and if I don't do it myself... I won't ever get to go to work again. I say all this to simply say: Thank you for making this video, I appreciate the wisdom your sharing!

[@SchrodingersBox]

I read it!

[@misaeldeleon7927]

Great video! Thank you so much for the tips, advice, specific procedure and jokes!! Great work man! THANKS!

[@michaelrose8913]

Bloody brilliant, boy. I've been torquing cylinder heads (on orphan one-off vintage classics) for 35 years (plus 20 years overtime) and lemme tell you....Shrodinger pulls one out of his Box here....his methods and info are absolutely-stunningly-brilliant and totally authoritative. I was fortunate to be trained by a genius Defense Force mechanic starting 1953

[@runedarkwarrior]

If u too poor for a mechanic thumbs up

[@larrypitts4727]

Marvo Miller :

[@johncollins165]

One of the best DIY auto repair videos I have ever seen. Just excellent. Many thanks!

[@Jacksonkellyfreak]

Matt, I love your channel, love your vids, and have learned a lot from you, but please PLEASE don't ever twerk again.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Total deal!!!

[@stancnet]

+Jacksonkellyfreak lolerskates

[@name9287]

Come on!! That twerking was 👍👍👍

[@chrisjimenez603]

That's straight up Cray Cray.

[@rgmeyers66]

8 years ago - I'm late to the party again. Enjoyed immensely, especially the section on calibrating torque wrench. I had always wondered and was considering sending mine out. Many thanks and well done.

[@oliveirainvestments2884]

terrific tutorial...great knowledge!!! Jesus bless you!

[@pharflo]

It is very generous of you to provide us with your working knowledge and tips. I tried to read the Haynes manual, but got confused by their "jumping around" references to different sections. Your explanation is very clear and straightforward. Thank you!!!

[@shawnclingerman9175]

So in the end, what was the underlying problem that caused the overheat that caused the warpage and gasket failure?

[@johnnyjohn8073]

I know I'm commenting on something posted 3 years ago but this is mainly for any new readers. This great home mechanic (who is better than many so-called professional mechanics) did mention that a few of the center cylinder head bolts were loose when he was taking them apart on the original cylinder head. I'm assuming that some one may have previously replaced the head gasket and didn't use brand new bolts and since they do tend to stretch, maybe that gave a false torque reading which eventually came loose and caused the head to warp while the rest of the bolts did stay properly torqued in it's respective part of the cylinder head. Maybe those loose center bolts were at the end its service life and gave in only after a few months of intense engine heat while it was driven. This could have lead to the warping of the cylinder head once the bolts gave in or from not being properly torqued. Which ever one of these 2 problems I described, may have lead to the warpage of the cylinder head. Another explanation was that some one simply replaced the head gasket without resurfacing the cylinder head. Maybe the previous mechanic didn't thoroughly clean the threads or the head bolts and got a false torque reading. Perhaps the surface of the engine block deck wasn't properly degreased with acetone, thinner, etc. Or perhaps the cylinder head itself wasn't properly degreased. The possible problems can be many but all will cause a head gasket to fail and possibly warp a cylinder head.

[@CinematicTouchProductions]

I love your videos, my Ol'man now 75 was an old school mechanic and really tried to get me to learn as a kid from like 9 years old and I had not an ounce of interest until now and I'm 50 just suddenly I want to learn, so I can save but I have a genuine interest in learning everything I can. Some videos on KZbin make me sleepy, others keep me locked in, Your videos are top notch, we'll explain and I thank you for what you do, I am neither a 98%er nor 2%er as you like to call others, I just what to learn as much I possible and learn the proper way of doing a job for myself or possibly help someone else in my life

[@ob1Katoby1]

Lose the straws. Cut the heads off 2 head bolts and cut a slot in the ends for easy removal. But a really good video as usual.

[@vernonknapp7165]

John Lloyd I actually have to use your technique to position my head correctly. I have a Jaguar 3.6 that is canted and I will need to use 4 of my old head bolts to guide my head perpendicular to my block.

[@SpryDrums]

John Lloyd per his style he wouldn’t use bolts, they could contaminate his threads, otherwise I’d say that would be another great solution, ill put it on my list

[@wtkforward1]

Thanxxxx Matt.... I'm in exactly the position and circumstances you described and made this diy video for. You have provided a go-to legacy for the diy guy's and girls for years to come. Thanks a thousand.

[@Satsui_No_Hado]

fantastic job. thank you . fascinating.

[@myndexinc]

Dude, I am so glad I found your you tube channel. You're a great teacher and mechanic, and I really appreciate how you present the material. After sifting through a sea of crap on the internet, your videos are a very refreshing oasis of education.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Thanks bro, I am glad you found it too. There's plenty of videos to keep you busy here lol!

[@bono894]

Wow that job looks like a pain in the ass. I need to let all that marinate a few days before I decide on if I want to attempt all of that

[@SchrodingersBox]

Its just spinning bolts. ANY car repair is just spinning bolts. There is no skill in spinning bolts. The skill is in diagnostics.

[@bono894]

Schrodingers Box what if when you took the head off a little bit of particals leaves and dirt might have fell in the holes on the block? Do you have to take that apart and clean all that out?

[@SchrodingersBox]

George Batton YES! If those are oil holes you will likely destroy your engine upon rebuild. Good common sense practices of cleanliness and decontamination should be obvious in this procedure.

[@bono894]

Sorry. Never did it before. It's actually a diesel mower. Took it apart stupidly before watching this video. There isn't a way to possibly siphon or vacuum it out without taking it apart?

[@brandoncordoba]

you can use a pneumatic brake bleeder to suck em out.

[@Zion-jw3gm]

I'm not even an engine guy and understood this. So so interesting the way you teach this. I like that you explain the reason WHY you take certain actions. You're the best. Also you explain TECHNIQUE very valuable detail like the grease on threads.

[@DodoCnR]

What's the point of the angle tool if you already torqued the bolts to spec? Thanks

[@schrodingersboxquantummeka2008]

+DodoCnR new cars use TA instead of just torque. this is explained in multiple comments below.

[@TexasPLNR]

I've done 6 cylinder heads as DIY projects and had a problem w/ my first job when I apparently missed head warpage. I agree w/ most of your tips and had one to add. When landing the cylinder head on the block w/ head gasket in position, I use two landing pads of wood on opposite ends of block to initially postion the cylinder head. I then lift head on one end and remove wood pads sequentially and land on dowels. My original concern and reason for using the pads was supporting they cylinder head weight while leaning into the engine bay. It would be easy to "bounce" the head on the gasket while searching for the dowels and permanently damage the gasket. This will still be a problem w/ the guide straws you suggested. Great video! Regards

[@muing5931]

you should make a how to twerking video next

[@SchrodingersBox]

Miley Cyrus beat me too it.

[@chronicle2052]

Schrodingers Box do you live in cali

[@SchrodingersBox]

chronicle No I live in Denver. Either way Im surrounded by liberals but at least out here cost of living is only 40% higher than national average vs 150% higher

[@averyalexander2303]

Schrodingers Box So is being surrounded by liberals a good or bad thing and why?

[@SchrodingersBox]

Avery Alexander It would be a good thing. it lets me know what the irrational and illogical people who "follow their emotions" are up to.

[@scottklees5640]

Hey Matt, this is a video I would rather not have needed to watch...but I'm 700 miles into my new head gasket and everything is still running quite well. Thanks for all the great tips!

[@SchrodingersBox]

Oh yeah you are home free. You'll notice most problem within the first 10 miles lol and definitely by 200 miles. Nice work!!! At this point the repair is certainly confirmed!!

[@AttackGirl]

Your obviously not paid enough

[@SchrodingersBox]

+Margaret P. Clarke Seeing as how I do a lot of this for charity, I am more than compensated by making a difference for people.

[@kdecoste1]

Love your videos! Keep up the great work. I used to be a diesel mechanic but my career changed 25 years ago. I still keep my motorized stuff in top shape and enjoy diagnosing problems. Your channel certainly helps.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Thanks for subbing!!

[@flightmaster178]

Man, Scotty could have done this whole head gasket job in 4 minutes. Haha thank you for the awesome videos! I've learned tons!

[@Cavalier_Steve]

Wow 4 minutes that's a marathon for him lol

[@ribbone1975]

Brenndon McGill yea and two minutes of that 4 would be lightning fast pointing at you

[@DaylightRobberyCA]

Great videos, Mr. Box. Detail-oriented, good presentation, a touch of humor. Very helpful for a novice wrench.

[@ESPPsycho]

Thanks for the videos, they are awesome. My motorcycle service manual calls for measurement of length on the crankcase bolts (block splits in half), conn rod bolts, and clearly specifies to replace if out of defined range. It has no mention of replacing cylinder head bolts. The manual is very thorough, and not sparing when it comes to calling out replacement parts. So my conclusion is since there was no warp, I am safe to reuse cylinder head bolts.

[@GRowe1978]

Flylikechris I have rebuilt a good number of motorcycle engines and I have reused the bolts on most of them. I always check the length to be sure none are stretched. If any are stretched, then certainly replace them. In a motorcycle, usually, the torque settings are lower than in cars. I suppose you could replace them all, especially if the motorcycle is your primary transportation and you want to be sure you've done all you can to make it reliable. On most of my two stroke bikes, when I take the heads off, I reuse the bolts and head gaskets. That is, if they're copper gaskets. I just anneal them and give them a light coating of copper-coat gasket sealer. I have NEVER had one leak after doing this. I only replace them if they look bent, dented or otherwise damaged. Or if I buy a gasket kit that comes with a new one, of course.

[@matth.4932]

I totally know what you mean about that angle torque thing. All of your videos are wonderful and thank you so much for the all that helpful information. A true teacher.

[@johnadams3152]

Excellant video. I have done several head gasket jobs over the 40+ years of fixing cars but I always learn some little trick that makes the job do easier. I liked all the details that you went through on that head gasket job Very well done.

[@jeffreywilsonrubikscubeonb2428]

Hey Matt…I'm commenting at about 4:18 into the vid and I love how you are stressing the importance of knowing if a bolt passes through a coolant passage or not. I know many DIY who have had to repeat a head job, water pump job, etc because of not knowing that sealer is required in these situations. Also, regardless of what school of thought one takes on the issue of reusing head bolts, I would like to add from a professional standpoint that I will forever and always USE NEW HEAD BOLTS!!! lol. I was working in a small family owned shop one time, doing a head gasket job on an asian model vehicle that is FAMOUS for its head gasket issues. I knew that I needed new bolts, but the local dealership for this car swore up and down that they never sell bolts for this model and that their techs always reuse the bolts..they convinced my boss at the time that I would be fine if I re-used the bolts. Against everything I know and believe, I allowed these idiots to overrule my better judgement and I put everything back together with the original bolts. During torquing, one bolt made a horrendous squeal noise and I could feel that it had failed somehow. I informed my boss, but he would not take my word on it, and made me complete the job. Once I was done, during my road test I lost oil pressure after about 10 minutes…and guess what? I was losing about one oz of oil per minute right next to that exact bolt hole…Obviously I had to do the job again and this time the threads had to be repaired, new bolts etc etc..Thank God I was at a straight time shop at the time, so I didn't lose any money. Had I been flat rate at the time I probably would have quit on the spot while dancing out the door singing "I told you so…" I knew this was going to happen, but the powers that be would not heed my warnings so in order to teach them all a damn lesson I went with it. The customer did not pay any more money, and was given a courtesy car so they were ok, and the only one that lost was my boss who paid me twice to do a job. The dealership even swallowed their pride and gave us a new gasket and NEW BOLTS free of charge. Every bit of advice that you have given so far in these 2 vids has been spot on, and your viewers will be the better for it, and for following your advice.

[@HighestRank]

I'll put Locktite on a bolt's threads and clean and fill the unthreaded shafts with any type of sealer in the world but I will never put any self-vulcanizing product on threads unless it specifically states that it's hypoxic, anaerobic, gasoline-proof, non-hardening, and non-hydraulic, which only one that I know of is.

[@damonedwards6724]

Just like to thank you for all the information in laymans terms.....you make very interesting and easy to preform an engine head gasket change.....I work on Chinook helicopters as a contractor of the US Army and we torque major components such as transmissions, turbine engines, drive shafting and rotor heads and blades.....so to torque component is very major to us and I appreciated how you stress the importance in preparing the items you need to torque proper so you dont have to redo it......again thanks for making the videos......smiles

[@randallring4193]

Realizing there are tricks and tips for each engine and limited video time, there is one caution that perhaps could have been mentioned. If the replacement head surface is machined, the amount should be noted, because the locating dowel pins on the engine block may then bottom out inside the corresponding holes in the head, not allowing the head to fully seat on the head and gasket. This is the best and most detailed presentation and video for this R&R I’ve ever seen. Thank you!

[@SGAOuTLaWz]

Best headgasket video on KZbin. Thanks for taking the time to make it.

[@DavidHanniganJr]

Your logic is the reason you have a additional subscriber.

[@jimmiemitchell9980]

You're amazing ...this has helped a lot with my 87 mr2…keep up the good work!!!

[@TheCodeJockey]

I learned so much thanks to your explanation of why things are done the way you do them. Super valuable info. Thank you!

[@njstorozuk]

You are a very articulate person and I appreciate every detail you explained. I believe that they were worth the time spent explaining! I may have to do this repair, depending on my situation, so I'm trying to get a "head" start. Thank you.

[@SchrodingersBox]

+njstorozuk Lol took me a second to get the pun! Nice!

[@kaameekaameekaameekaamee5697]

Hi Matt you are a good teacher. Your illustrations and directions are quite different from what we practice here in Nigeria. Thanks.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Thanks- I have quite a few viewers from Nigeria and they tell me the same. Send me a PM with your email address and I'll qualify you for free access to my pay channel!!

[@packrcch]

two great videos. i could do this. ten years ago, i made the same mistakes that you mentioned in part 1. i overheated my engine and developed a "coolant in oil problem". i just replaced the head gasket and [as you predicted] the problem was still there. i didn't consider that the head might be warped. i just wasn't as mechanically experienced back then. my "baby" has been sitting in storage [indoors] for ten years because i have been thinking that i needed another motor when it may only be a warped cylinder head. wow... it's possible that there is block damage as you said, but it's worth it to have the cylinder head checked. i guess the upside is that my car [85' celica gts] is now a classic in great shape because i didn't drive it for 10 years. thank you Matt.

[@heavymechanic2]

I studied a little about bolt stretch for my intake job and learned that: during heat cycles under clamping pressure, the elastic rebound on the bolts lose their clamping ability, this is the reason to always replace head bolts or other fasteners recommended by service instructions. In my case, FelPro gaskets recommends new intake bolts to reduce gasket failure (Its a GM problem). Great information on this series and I hope you trashed the bad radiator.

[@sungn4512]

Matt, Thanks for sharing your great insights on the blown gasket walk through. I can see you appreciate good problem solving-DIYers over DIY-robots. Keep it up!

[@dessertfox3263]

I really appreciate the clear explanations and the attention paid to the important details that assure good results

[@Jbaybi]

Fantastic video!! Thank you for all the technical tips because I'm one who cannot afford to bring my baby to a shop and I'm done as much research as I possibly can before doing this job! It's extremely appreciated that you took the time to go over how critical the accuracy of each small part of this job truly is!! I'm subbed in for your great content!!

[@FFcossag]

What an excellent video. You do a good job instilling confidence in newcomers, by being specific but practical.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Thank you for the awesome comment FFcossag!

[@kurtsteinbeck3344]

The best and easiest to understand.You are an excellent professor- instructor.

[@spelunkerd]

You make a good point about treating all bolts the same if you have to use sealer on one. The other thing I've often wondered about is whether a torque wrench calibration varies with temperature. I'll have to try your calibration trick, ha ha. It seems likely that cold temp would lead to higher torque needed to click because of cold induced metal stiffness. But, ultimately it's all about evenness and consistency. I loved your idea of marking bolts to be sure that each got the same angle turn. It's easy to lose track when you are trying to do a star pattern on multiple bolts. The part number was Lisle 28100 torque angle meter.

[@davewood1772]

Thanks. So informative, unlike so many of the uploaded video's here, by someone that knows what they are talking about and doing. Your everyday real life experience shows. Keep up the good work.

[@AceABCDN]

This guy is truly a professional automotive technician genius. And this is coming from a meticulous to the point of obsession professional pilot that knows detail can mean saving lives of every person on board or at the very least, millions of dollars of precision built aircraft.

[@rico20091000]

Thank You, finally there is someone that takes the time to explain in depth and takes the time to double check and triple check to do it right. I am 62 and have done this back in the 70's when to me mechanics were much simpler. You are there to help the person that cannot afford to pay someone to fix their vehicle. Thank You, I will be forced to fix my 2003 Chevy Silverado, 5300L 5.3L 323 CID Vin No. T Engine. Yes I believe I have the problematic Castech Heads whichwere cast or used on these engines from Canada, where my truck came from. I have a loud ticking, clacking noise coming from around the no 2 cylinder which truly sounds like lifter noise. However the noise does radiate down to the lower end also. I do have a coolant leak (somewhere) and have had for quite some time, about a quart every two weeks, but cannot seem to locate it, I did oil and filter changes regularly, way before the scheduled change. When the engine first started making noise I drained the oil so I could add seafoam while the engine was running and the noise quit, after about 24 miles I changed the oil, filter and got black gunk out the oil plug, . The noise quit for about3 months, however I changed the oil again during this 3 month period and the noise came back, no gunk in the oil, no milky color, and the noise will not go away even after 5 oil filter changes. However, I must say when first starting up the engine there is no noise until it warms up after 15 min. I do not have any gauges, that you have, but seeing how you did this in this video was very informative and even entertaining at times. I really enjoy the in depth and meticulous effort to diagnosing and pinpointing the problem. This really helps on not spending money on parts you do not need and to prevent a reoccurrence if you do it right. I 'am Retired and on a fixed income, so every penny means something, and with your videos on dissecting the problem, and why the problem started to begin with, and how to fix this without coming back surely gives me the boost I need to attempt this myself with the mental tools to do so. One positive is that I do have the time, Thanks So Much for your videos! Very grateful.

[@StilettoSniper]

Excellent video, and I agree totally with your assessment of the Lisle angle gauge vs. the competition. While the design of the Lisle could stand improvement (e.g. better contrasting dial face, engraved vs. sometimes poorly applied sticker-based numerics, and a more solid riveted or welded cable connection to the tool) I too found that the Lisle is definitely a cut above the plastic dial junk that you gleefully tossed away in your video. But here's something you might want to treat yourself to in the future (if you haven't already): I have recently upgraded (thanks to a gift from my lovely wife) to the electronic digital angle gauge from Brown Line Metalworks. This device has a strong magnetic attachment that allows it to be used with your ratchet or breaker bar. OK, it is significantly more pricey than the Lisle so it might not be for everyone, but Matt, if you have not checked this tool out you really owe it to yourself to do so. For one, it allows you to use your existing tools and it is very accurate at +/- 2%. Second, it eliminates the issue of errors due to not having enough clearance to complete the swing in one motion, as it supports partial arcs via a ratcheting wrench. And third, it provides not only digital numeric indication but colored LEDs AND audible indication of approach, attainment and any motion in excess of your pre-configured final torque value. This is a great boon I found when performing work inside the engine compartment rather than on the engine stand, since it is much more difficult to attain an optimum viewing angle and eliminate the effects of parallax error. The Brown Line device has predominantly excellent reviews from both pros as well as DIYers in the know. The only limitation that I have found it that you must not allow your flex-head ratchet or breaker bar to significantly change the movement plane of the device while it is in use. However, this is not a problem for me as my Gearwrench flex head ratchets have a lock-out device that prevents any flex when engaged. A video on the Brown Line digital angle gauge does it far more justice than I ever could, check it out at kzbin.info/www/bejne/pouUgIZ6dpaBl5I

[@MarcGyverIt]

I must say, I've never done such a thorough job when doing this, and now I can see why I've had a couple of failures, hahaha. VERY good info in here. Thanks. There's always something else to learn.

[@peeinyourbuttallday748]

matt just from watching your videos i am now a master mechanic.thanks again matt

[@astrologando1858]

Man, I wish every mechanic (or person for that matter) would be as professional and thorough as you are. I'm learning a lot from your videos and subscribed to your paid channel, as a fellow scientist I like to understand why things happen and as much as I love to draw and turn bolts I'd like to do it with a purpose. Thanks for investing your time doing what you're doing, I wish you all the best!

[@SchrodingersBox]

Thanks for the great comment!!

[@davidbellmechanical]

Nice one again Matt. Something worth bearing in mind is that sometimes when an alloy cylinder head has been cooked more times than a walmart curry, they can lose their hardness. I've been told that a brinell gauge (a glorified mini ballbearing bounce test) can determine when it is unwise to re-use a soft cylinder head. From memory a number of say 120 (a good bounce) means a good, hard head, and say 75 (a lower bounce, often leaving a mark on the surface) is too soft. It is possible (debatable) to re-harden heads, often it is better to find a better example. I've seen really soft heads with impressions where the head-bolt washers have "sunk in to" the contact surface of the head, and allowed the sealing ring to chatter. Having said this, I think some machine shops over stress the point in order to sell a new head

[@Roadweaver]

Nice to see checking torque wrench not many people do.... I use a common digital luggage scale gives easy calibration in my view.Not my idea cant remember who to credit with the idea.Please keep these going the detail is refreshing

[@charliedee9276]

I tried the "eyeball the 90" like you describe NOT to do at the end on my Jeep 4.7 AND tried it while it was still buried in the engine compartment...at night in the winter. I don't have to tell you how that worked out. So now that I am changing head gaskets again I did a little searching and a customer on Amazon had a review of a tool like this and referenced this video of a demonstration of how to use it in his review. So thanks to TM, I went to this video, bought the Lisle tool you use and subbed to the channel!

[@SchrodingersBox]

hahahaha. I learned the same way lol!!! yeah hands down- the angle gauge I showed is the best tool for this.

[@wardharrison]

semi-experience mechanic/do it yourselfer = thank you for such detailed and concise vids. you are a huge help!

[@Mchenrygames]

I watch your videos because I like to learn and I like your scientifical approach to solving problems

[@SchrodingersBox]

Perfect target audience! That's exactly who I make these videos for.

[@blaineflynn3819]

Dude your attention to detail is outstanding, I only wish I had seen this video before I clamped down my cylinder head...

[@dscorralez]

You did a very good job explaining! I am a physicist, and while your calculations,(in terms of the torque specifications) were very "back of a napkin," were accurate enough for the job. Kudos! I will continue to watch and learn from your very instructional channel. Thank you!

[@SchrodingersBox]

dscorralez Oh sweet- a physicist... please show how you would have calculated more accurately, I'd like to know.

[@KIFulgore]

You have such an amazing mind for this. It all makes sense, but few would pay attention to all these details!

[@SchrodingersBox]

Correct you are. Most people want to just see a 3 minute video ands call themselves educated.

[@amylee7017]

Excellent video, I'm going to help my boyfriend replace his burnt valve and cylinder head gasket, we bought 8 new cylinder head bolts, for $60, Australian dollars, thanks for such a good video.

[@fernando13e]

Just a quick note to have in mind, Torque equals to the length measured from the axis of rotation to the point where the force is going to be applied, in short T = L * F, when you do the math op you are going to get either Newton-metres of torque or Foot-Pounds (depending on which units system are you using) then for the applicability of this video you just make the corresponding conversion as you showed.

[@jodysanders1111]

Very detailed and informative. Kinda like a human shop manual. Great set of videos.

[@CodeGeassIAMROCK]

Working on my Toyota Starlet KP61 project on my own has been kind of hard...and with a budget even more.....thanks for showing how this is done!!

[@reinhardtrippmacher8776]

Just wanna say thank you for all the information you are giving here. i am just going through a inline 6 toyota engine and screwed the first cylinder head gasket as i didnt change bolts and didnt mill the head. lesson learned!

[@INNO222]

Great clip. I love your torque wrench calibrator ( I wish I thought of that). As a ex-Snap-on dealer, I think Lisle is one of the best values out there in the tool industry.

[@ortonomics]

You're an excellent instructor, thank you for simplifying what I thought would be a much more difficult job. I've subscribed!

[@SchrodingersBox]

Thanks for subscribing. Only about 2% of people in this hobby will appreciate what I do. Most people just want to see tools and bolts and parts like a saturday morning car show on TNN. But people like you who want to actually learn the theory of operation and how to do diagnostics will ultimately be the one people come to when they can't fix something the 5th time and they run out of ideas.

[@kenmetalman]

Thanks for the video, found it very informative. I've got to change the head gasket on a 4 litre Ford Falcon, never done one before but after watching your video I'm pretty confident. Thanks again.

[@glennw53]

Dear Sir, you are right on and thanks for such a candid helpful guide. I would like to add to this. This is my 2nd time with HG replacement. As you have said you must find the reason why your here at this point of doing a HG! You must find the reason for this type of frailer. When I replaced my HG I have a machine shop shave it down and refinish the values too. The next problem was a shock and didn't see coming. When putting all back together and torquing down HG bolts some just spun around??? Metal Fatigue had set in and had to have insert jackets professionally done. Terminology may be wrong. Another 500 bucks spent. Oh, 2004 4cyl Camry 190 thousand miles at the time. Moral of the story FIND out what caused the overheating leading to HG repair and make sure that's taken care of first.

[@SchrodingersBox]

+Glenn Wimberly Yes this has happened to me too. Especially on aluminum blocks. The overheating causes a warp which stretches the bolts and strips the threads in the soft aluminum block. When disassembling you can sometimes even just loosen some head bolts by hand in fact. The only solution is to drill and tap larger or use inserts. Very frustrating when you find this out only after your second or third torque sequence and you find a bolt is not "biting".

[@OneLegged-honda-mechanic]

I'm glad to see someone out there as detail oriented as I am.

[@HighestRank]

detail-oriented* Never discount the value of a 2nd.pair of eyes and in my case, first set of ears.

[@vernonknapp7165]

Great job! By the way, I really appreciate the fact that you never use any foul language. I like to watch videos like this with my 10 year old son, but 99% of the time I get embarrassed by the youtuber utilizing words I don’t want my son subjected to. Thank you!

[@SchrodingersBox]

Thanks for noticing. yeah i try to keep it at least minimally professional lol. I think most producers curse because it makes up for their lack of content.

[@vernonknapp7165]

Schrodingers Box I believe so too. Thanks!

[@vernonknapp7165]

Schrodingers Box I have one question for anyone who has experience with this situation: my 1988 Jaguar xj6 has the 3.6 liter that is slanted about 20-30 degrees to the right side of the vehicle. I can only think of two ways to carefully lower the head (which weighs about 100 lbs!) 1. Remove the engine and use an engine stand or 2. Have a helper slowly lower the head with a hoist over my block while trying to bring it down perpendicular with my block. Any suggestions? I would greatly appreciate some input from anyone with experience.

[@AJFresh69]

New subscriber! The clear detailed explanation and info that I didn't see anywhere else is AWESOME

[@SchrodingersBox]

AJFresh That's all I do on this channel. Glad you found it!

[@nicholascantrell896]

Fantastic videos! I knew nothing about this issue and now I feel a lot more confident. Thanks

[@jaridz]

Thanks for the video mate. I have a 250 crossflow in my '78 Ford Cortina with a leaking head gasket, cast iron head. I will be replacing the cast iron head with a worked alloy head for now until I get the cast iron head worked. As it's the first time I have had to replace a head gasket and head, I found your video very informative. Along with the Gregory's manual I have and your videos, I have a fair idea of what I need to do so I only have to do it once.

[@SchrodingersBox]

jaridz You should have no problem doing the job right with the techniques shown and the specs from the manual. I agree- you only want to do this once!!

[@SimplyGrouchy]

13:45 this is exactly what happened to me! my 1996 acura integra gsr specs for torquing are 22 and 61 ft-lb. I went ahead and added a third one bc i felt like the gap was kinda high so decided to go 22-37-61. No issues with the first two specs but when i got to the 61 i felt like the amount of rotation needed on wrench became less and less as i went on, might just be overthinking it but i dunno...BUT the final two bolts immediately clicked on my wrench! I never torqued them since 37 but for whatever reason they now read 61! Dunno if i should redo it or just go with it help!! btw my torque sequence is like this 8 4 2 6 10 7 3 1 5 9 9 and 10 immediately clicked on me. The rest had atleast some spin to them.

[@TheWeirdSide1]

This happened to me, I replaced cylinder heads in parking lot in 2 days days with limited tools and as fast as I could to hide from security. It was also the dreaded 3vze motor v6 and much higher torque specs. About 8 hours total time to do it from start to finish. The cylinder heads have to go on with the crossover exhaust pipe which I found out the hard way by damaging a $50 gasket. Luckily I had a spare. They should not have to go on like that, but I found it impossible to get crossover flange to line up if heads installed separately. All bolts went in smooth and clicked nicely, but the last one did not click distinctly and seemed to keep turning without getting notably more difficult to turn. It is possible a new bolt could just be faulty and stretching or could have broken off half way in threads and be bottoming out on itself. So further tightening would actually loosen the bolt as you cross thread further. But I was stuck with what I had. The truck still is running almost a year later and compression is almost perfect in those cylinders around questionable bolt, so perhaps I got lucky or was must over thinking it! I have 165-168 compression on all 3 cylinders (spec is 171) and 150 is lowest spec.

[@AllTerrainAction]

9:50 this explination and process, amazing. Nerdy yes but logical and damn important for anyone who does not understand.

[@alexgreen121]

Great video Matt, keep up the good work. I like the fact you actually explain all your procedures in detail, good work.