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Replaced a broken Harbor Freight Miter Saw switch on my Model number 98199 with one from Amazon. See link below.
One comment I received indicates he bought the switch I linked below and it had the Brake on the right and Power on Left just like his original switch. The one I bought had Brake on left. Power on the right. I recommend testing any switch you buy with a multimeter. If your replacement switch has continuity on the left without the trigger pulled, then that should be the brake location on the left side. That continuity, in my case on the left, should open or no continuity when trigger is pulled. On my replacement switch I had No continuity on the right when trigger is NOT pulled, the continuity would occur on the right when I pulled the trigger, so that was where the power wiring goes. I hope this helps to determine where to put the brake wires and where to put the power wires on a replacement switch.
I first bought the wrong switch from Amazon. Listed as Superior Electric AMT-SW38A, SW38A Aftermarket Trigger Switch (Eaton Style) Large Button 24/12A 125/250V, which is just a 4 pole ON/OFF switch. I sent it back because it is not made for a saw with an electronic Brake. Do not hook this SW38A switch up to the Brake wires because the Brake and the motor will both be on at the same time. This will cause big time problems. This SW38A switch can work as just an ON/OFF switch if you just wire it to the Black power wire and White common. Do Not wire the Brake wires to this switch. I connected my Black and White wires together with a small bolt and nut and plugged the power cord in to verify I had a bad switch and to verify these two wires were indeed the black power wire and the White common wire.
Later, I bought the correct SW38C switch, which is made for an electric brake. Amazon listed this switch as, Electric SW38C Aftermarket Trigger Switch (Eaton Style) Replaces DeWalt 391926-01 and 391926-00.
Here is the Amazon link to the SW38C switch, $12.69
www.amazon.com...
I did have to use a Dremel cutoff wheel to remove a partition inside the Model 98199 Miter Saw handle so the new switch would fit better. Also used the Dremel cut off wheel to remove a very small portion of the handle sidewall where the partition had been. The whole project took less than half an hour to complete
I just rerouted the wires so the Black power wire and White common wire were going to the right side of the SW38C switch and the two smaller White Brake wires were going to the left side of the switch. I did not have to cut or length the wires. I did remove the pigtail connectors from the SW38C switch and just screwed down the miter saw original wire connectors to the SW38C switch.
Hope this video helps someone that has a miter saw switch problem.