At first it was intermittent gauges and eventually nothing working on the dash! Then once I found a good ground, tested it was good by going to the positive side of the battery with my multimeter, then used that good ground at A8 everything on the dash worked again. A good ground may not be everybody’s solution, but it was ours. Good luck!

I have my fingers crossed for you!

Good Luck, but the way your problem started sounds different. My son’s was intermittent, then eventually permanent. However, the ultimate symptom, No Friggin Cluster, is the same. So, who knows? I wish you luck and please feel free to comment some more and let people know how you ultimately fixed your problem. I read every comment people make on my videos. When I am looking for help, on KZbin, to solve some kind of a problem I am having, I read many, many of the comments on videos made by others. Sometimes the solution, is not in the video, but has been explained in the comments by someone that had a similar issue. I love KZbin! It has a wealth of information. Good Luck!

Thank you for taking the time to let me know the video helped you. Thanks for watching and commenting!

I just do not think I can be any more explicit than what I have already written and stated in my video. Find another video or watch mine several more times where I explain how to check for continuity with trigger pulled and without trigger pulled. If you have continuity without the trigger being pulled then that is where the brake wires should go. If you have no continuity until you pulled the trigger, then while the trigger is being pulled you have continuity then that is where the black power wire and white common wire go. The SW38C switch I received had the brake circuitry on the left and the power circuitry on the right. Some have commented they bought the same switch I bought and it had power on the left and brake on the right. Therefore, I recommended in my description that any switch you buy should be tested as I stated above and in my description to determine which side has what. The one I received had the brake on the left and power on the right. I never bought a SW38d so I cannot say anything about that particular switch. The one I received was SW38c and is still working fine to this day. Good luck!

Thanks for watching and commenting. I am going to throw out my hypothesis on why I think people have trouble with these fryers. This is not aimed at you, but is something I hope others read. I am by far not an expert on these fryers. I don't even own one. The two main reason, I believe are: 1. The lack of good circulation of air. The thermal fuse is tripped by temperatures over 200 degrees C. Therefore, circulation of cooler air is essential to avoid tripping the thermal fuse. For sure move it away from the wall when in use to improve circulation. Anything that can be done to improve air circulation during prolonged use should help. 2. Not wiping it down after each use. I would take a wet cloth and heat it up in a microwave or dip it in a pan with hot water. Then wipe the inside of the fryer down with a hot or at least warm cloth. Especially, wipe down the face of the thermal fuse so it is clean and not building up grease or other unwanted substances that could cause it’s surface to become too hot or not allow the heat to dissipate. I think I will try to edit my description and add this to it. Perhaps it will help others. Again the above is not aimed at you, but is something I hope others will read. Thanks for watching and commenting and good luck with your fryer.

Sorry it did not work for you. To satisfy my own curiosity, did you check for continuity from one side of the thermal fuse to the other side. If you have no continuity then you need to either replace or re-set it. If you have continuity then obviously the thermal fuse is not the problem. If you have continuity, some have commented having a door switch problem. Lots of things including microwaves, washing machines, etc. need to know the door is shut in order for the item to work. Thus the reason for a door switch. Just throwing this out there as a possibility. I believe some commented all they had to do was bend it a little and it started working again. We did not have a door problem, so I cannot help you there except to mention it and perhaps you can find a video regarding door switches. Thanks for watching and commenting, even though it did not work for you. Good luck!

LOL! For sure, it was in really bad shape. Once he graduated from college and got a job, he immediately sold that poor old Suburban and got into debt with a new vehicle. I never made a better connection by a solder splice or wire nut or anything and the cluster was still working when he sold it. Thanks for watching and commenting!😀

Thanks for letting me know it is still helping people out!

I feel for you! I cleaned mine up again this last winter and so far no problems. I have also thrown a few clean Q-tips into a small zip bag into my already overloaded fishing vest, just in case I need to clean it somewhere other than my house. I hope your next trip will be all tight lines.

Thanks for watching and commenting. If your goal is like mine, to help others with what seems like a fairly simple fix, then I would encourage you to make a video of your micro switch replacement. Like my video, it could be made after the fact or even though you have already fixed the problem. It could potentially help many grateful people. Thanks again!

When someone subscribes to my channel, KZbin sends me a notification. So, I just wanted to thank you for the subscription. The more people that watch, click the like button and subscribe, the more that video become visible to other having the same problem we had. So thank you!

Sorry it did not help. If you read some more of the comments, a few people did not have the reset problem, but had a door switch problem. They were able to fix the door switch problem. Sorry I cannot help you with that, since my son did not have that problem, but it might be worth try if you are mechanically inclined. On my washing machine the lid has to be closed or the machine will not drain and spin. I had to take the old broken switch off and replace it with a new lid switch. Same thing on our old microwave. It will not operate unless it thinks the door is closed. Had to repair that switch. Anyways your air fryer needs to know the door is shut, via a switch, to operate. Good luck my friend. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Love the fact that you could see the humor in this tedious job. Mine is still working great despite try to blow a duck. LOL!😃

Thank you for a great comment! Thank you for explaining your symptoms and how you ultimately fixed the problem. Great comment! When I am watching other people’s videos, I try my best to go thru the comments, because there can be really good information sort of hidden there. Just like yours! Thanks for watching and thanks for sharing your experience.

That is so strange to me. Because the nozzles are all metal male threaded. They look like brass. Male threaded like a bolt. And the part they go into is metal female threaded like a metal brass nut. So, this part of the sprayer is all metal. I find it hard to figure out why it will not come apart. Mine is basically just like a metal bolt going into a metal nut. Yes, sometimes cross threading can happen even with metal bolts and nuts, but with coarse, not fine threads, it is rare. I am not sure what to tell you, except mine has been used extensively and is still working just fine for small projects. I always take the nozzle off and clean it and run that small brush, that came with mine, into the female threaded area to clean the threads as shown in Part 2 of my videos. I have no idea why yours is giving you this problem. Sorry cannot help you.

Great idea! I did a similar thing on one of my other portals, I used the multi-tool and hand chisels to form an all most perfect 2 x 4, (1 ½” x 3 ½”) void and then put a 5’ long 2x4 in the void. I used wood epoxy on the back side and other sides, but I think an adhesive might have been better. I did anchor with 3” screws thru the 1 ½” side. Seems to be holding up ok. Thanks for watching and a good comment!

Thanks for watching and the nice comment. You might also watch this one I made when I finally replaced my switch. Replaced a broken Harbor Freight Miter Saw switch kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWfQdmiVn8ann8U Read the description in the above mentioned video because I describe how to check where brake wires and power wires go. Good luck and I hope this information helps you.

Change the tip to a smaller or bigger size?

I would never by pass the thermal fuse safety device. Just like I would never try to hot wire across a circuit breaker in my home. 1. Try making sure the thermal fuses' face is clean by wiping it down real good. 2. I would actually try to clean the entire oven area the best I could, but for sure the thermal fuse itself. 3. Next try moving the fryer to an open area when operating it, this will allow the fan to bring in cooler air and hopefully keep the thermal fuse from tripping. The fan if operating properly needs to be able to circulate cooler air into the fryer. 4. I would only use the fryer for cooking small items or in other words for shorter times. Anything that takes a very long time to cook, I would use a conventional oven since the longer, it takes to cook in the fryer, the more apt the thermal fuse will trip. 5. If you try all the above and it keeps tripping, I would try to find a replacement thermal fuse, but never bypass the thermal fuse safety device. Perhaps the fan is not operating properly and perhaps it is time to replace parts or just buy a new fryer. Good luck!

Thanks for the information that the trigger you bought using my link has the power on the left and brake on the right. This is VERY IMPORTANT information. This indicates to me that it is VERY IMPORTANT that one should do a continuity test to see which post have continuity when the trigger is not pulled, (this would be the brake circuit). And which post have continuity when the trigger is pulled, ( this would be the power circuit posts) . I have added this information to the description, based on your comment. Hopefully the description and your comment and my reply will help others figure out where the brake wires go and where the power wires go. Thanks again for commenting on your experience with your replacement switch. Or, that it is very important to study the circuit diagram on the replacement switch. If you pause my video around 3:20 you will see the circuity of my replacement switch. Note: It is hard to see, but there is a solid line showing posts labeled 2 located on the left of my switch have continuity all the time until the trigger is pulled. When trigger is pulled there is a dashed line indicating something pushes open the circuit at 2. So no more continuity across post 2 (where Brake wires should be). Trigger pulled and the circuit is closed across posts 1, (where the power should be). So the Circuit diagram on my replacement switch showed Brake on Left and Power on Right. Hopefully your circuit diagram on your switch showed the proper brake and power wire circuit orientations. If your case, Power on Left and brake on right. However as I said above. It just goes to show that one should check which post have continuity when the trigger is not pulled, but no longer has continuity once the trigger is pulled, (Brake circuit). And which ones do not have continuity until the trigger is pulled, (Power circuit). Very good comment! Thanks for watching and most import, commenting about your experience.

Yes, I did put some hints in the description on how to get to the thermal fuse by removing the heating element and fan, but probably no one reads my long description. I hope that they will read your comment, if they are trying to get to the thermal fuse or just removing the fan. Thanks for watching and a useful comment!

My sons had a heating element. Once I realized I could reset the thermal fuse I stopped my inquiry and put it back together, so I am not sure why your heating element is not heating. The heating element is large, so I cannot imagine it going bad, but I suppose it could. I suspect something else is not allowing current to go to the heating element. Perhaps just a loose wire going to the heating element. Perhaps there is another fuse or a component on the circuit board has gone bad and is stopping current at that failure. These are just my guesses, since we did not have your problem. Sorry, I cannot help you, but if you are a DIY with a multimeter I would look at the things I have mentioned here. Be careful, I always unplug the device and check continuity with no power present. Capacitors can hold current even when the device is unplugged, so just be careful with your multimeter. Good luck!

@@johntube2525 Thanks so much much for your input. I will let me husband know! 👍☺️

Watching, commenting, clicking the like button and subscribing helps make this video come up when people do a search. So thank you for watching and letting me know it helped. If you have not already done so, please click the like button and if you are interested in seeing more of my videos, you could also subscribe. Thanks!

Just a wild asssssss guess, but maybe something is wrong with the fan. Going bad or something on it to unbalance it? Good Luck!

Thanks for watching and the kind words. Your comments lets me know I hit my goal, which is, To help others with a similar problem.