Replacing 4th clutch hub, PCS, TCC: 4T65-E

[@bubbacoz]

I could tell you was a pretty young guy by lookin at yer hands lol mad props man great to see somebody so young that knows how to do such extensive work and it looks like you do a more professional job than some guys twice yer age by the care you took while reassembling things in the video. 👏

[@clydelourdes5754]

A true mechanics mechanic. Not a word. Awesome 👍

[@chatamus1157]

Nicely done. No talk...only action.

[@evilcowboy]

I installed a shift kit as well to bandaide the problem of the harsh shifts. I didn't have any problems other than that. I flushed the trans the first time I got it and then I flushed again recently. Mine is an 04 Lesabre. I will be getting a whole new trans to rebuild in my spare time and to add a few mods to make it more bullet proof. This transmission is a really good one but straight from the factory there are a few things that should have been addressed. The PCS is know as a big problem in these and GM admitted it was a junk one and recommends you replace it with a Borg Warner one. The Filter in mine is a raybestos because it came with an OEM gasket and I wanted a new one. You should also leave the shift kit in even though you have a new PCS it is not really considered an upgrade like most shift kits but rather a "this is the way it should have came" kit because of the springs being so prone to breaking. A modification you can also do that you will thank yourself for is add a drain plug to the pan. By drilling and tapping you can put in almost any bolt with a gasket washer and it seals nicely. Nice to have another magnet in there if you choose a magnet tip drain plug. you did a very decent job of cleaning and making sure everything was good with the install. Honestly with transmissions being only 150 bucks at my local salvage yard I might as well grab one and rebuild it for a spare. I'm just one of those guys who keeps engine parts as spares for every car I own. I also carry tools and extra fluid of every type in a tote in the trunk. this allows me to do necessary flushes anytime I need and to keep things running smoothly.

[@Venturi2012]

@Victor Martinez Yes the frame was touching the ground, the passenger side bolts removed about halfway to allow lots of tilt. The engine mount on the passenger side was the only thing really putting any weight on it.

[@Venturi2012]

evilcowboy I hear the pcs fails due to a bad design by metal particles building up on the valve and causing it to stick. The same metal particles that are on the pan magnet. GM released an additional magnet to add to the pan, and they tell you specifically where to put it so it doesn't interfere with anything. Instead of drilling and tapping, you could spend the money to avoid the hassle on a dorman pan for $28.79 plus shipping. They come with a drain plug. Yeah after you replace the common failure parts it's pretty bulletproof, with a stock 3800 that is.

[@evilcowboy]

Thanks. I will get around to replacing mine soon. I don't have the tranny thump as it was mild before so I did the shift kit work around and that worked. I have dropped and changed twice now and the issue is no longer in my car. I may have ended up flushing it so well it may have unstuck the PCS. But I will still update all the shift solenoids and the PCS while I am in there and probably the TCC solenoid. I knew these transmissions were good ones they just need to be updated to work right it seems. Thanks again.

[@davidjames666]

@11:48 also, the brake booster vacuum line should be disconnected. It may no be long enough when the engine and trans get lowered, and it can prevent other necessary cables or hoses from lowering down as well. Great job.

[@JetTDi]

I have a 99 Malibu (4T40-E) and when it gets drove a while and gets good and hot, the shift from 1st to 2nd at full throttle is BANG BANG BANG BANG. I have no idea what would cause it to do that so bad. It's like the transmission is going to fly out the hood. It has 217,000 miles and runs very good when cold. It's not overheating, I have installed an after market cooler. Also at slow speeds like 10-40 mph when you give it a little gas, it makes a groaning, growling noise. It's only when you give it gas, so it's not a wheel bearing. Sorry this is so long, and thanks so much for your help.

[@rockydubois1052]

Most likely a solenoid issue. My 2000 buick century with the 4t65-e is known for it when it gets hot

[@3Repete]

Hi Venturi2012 I have a 2002 Park Avenue Ultra with 117000 miles. I don't know it's history. It's the Supercharged 3800 II and is supposed to have a 4T65E-HD with 3.05 final drive ratio that's unique to it. I'm getting a PO741 code on a cheap scanner. That's the Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck Off message that is supposedly tripped by the sensors getting wrong revolutions per mile when lock up is commanded. I have ordered a set of solenoids, TCC, EPC and manifold pressure switch as a kit. And I ordered a Sonnax updated tcc valve. But I wonder if I ought to do the clutch hub too and be done with it all. What would you say?

[@chasedavis2358]

I suspect this happened because the torque converter locks up in 4th gear and it transfers a static force to that shaft

[@geraldcobb3297]

My overdrive is out on my 02 Monte Carlo . Would I use this same procedure to fix it ?

[@eideticex]

It would be amazing to see a picture or video of that 4th clutch hub fully seated from the side. Been digging all over the internet to try and find that to figure out if mine is seated all the way but nadda, just a bunch of forward views that make it hard to tell just how high they stand off or sink into the housing.

[@Venturi2012]

Put the clutches on, if they're lined up it's in all the way.

[@busabobsgarage9876]

Nice video, well done!

[@tunnelportterror]

question to poster of this video- what would make a 4t65e input shaft stator splines to be worn down, or strip off ? I found one that the stator splines were half worn off.

[@edwynportillo4263]

I have the code p0742, change the tcc but always return the code, what is the problem with my transmission, is a pontiac montana 2001, please help me, thank you

[@deee2402]

could I Please have a copy of that paper that show where all the bolts go on the valvebody.

[@bodeine454]

I bought a '95 Buick Riviera(supercharged) with the supposedly HD 4T65E transmission about 9 months ago and after a couple months it started not shifting into 4th consistently. It does this probably 50% of the time. When it does shift it's at about 45 MPH, can't remember the rpm's, and when it doesn't I can sense/feel a slight hesitation in momentum like it wants to shift but doesn't. When this happens I turn the ignition key off(still rolling) momentarily and restart the car. It usually shifts into 4th/OD after this. Any thoughts on what it might be? I've been reading that it's probably the intermediate and OD servo bores that are wore allowing fluid to escape past the pistons....

[@chiva0521]

Did you lower the frame? thanks and Excellent detailed video

[@javierochoa432]

My van doesn't have 3rd gear doesn't pass 30mph...any ideas please

[@wadehudson5454]

What about the Chains? Can they be replaced without removing the trans from engine? I am planning to do all solenoids, input speed sensor, valve body separator plate gaskets, manifold pressure switch, 4th upgraded shaft and fiber clutch plates, case gaskets and thrust washers, concerned I get in there and chains are stretched. Can they be replaced at that point with trans still in vehicle? Thanks.

[@davidjames666]

Wade Hudson yes, chains can be replaced without removing the trans

[@metanosis]

Replaced the TCC, when went to pull pump off, it didn't come off in one piece, took a cover off first, exposing the intricate pump assembly, then slid that off. When reassembled, getting a noise/vibration/knock from the pump area....any ideas? Thinking maybe the shaft needs to be set or snapped in somehow, and I failed to do that?? Thanks for any ideas....

[@Venturi2012]

Does it still engage into gears? If so that's a good sign, but it will have to come apart again regardless.

[@danielbloom8055]

dont know if u still look at these but i got an 01 buick park ave and it got 166k and my car was all good until last night i was pulling up over the curb and bam started slipping and now drive is gone it goes into first works ok but kinda slips and second is the same revers is strong i have no idea but for 2 weeks befor this happend the front driver side started a small hum like a wheel baring

[@nicktaylor4129]

Is it recommended to replace the friction plates and steels as well? My car has 156k miles on it. I figure while I am there I should do it but just wondering if its worth the extra money.

[@CepinysOrg]

Great video. Does that work for an 06 impala as as well? Disassembling everything on the left and moving the cover exposes the side of the transmission. ??

[@pilzlove]

I need to know where the ball bearings go, it would be nice if you could help, thank you

[@Venturi2012]

+pilzlove This picture from the Transgo kit shows where they go i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx249/combat11/Page%202.jpg

[@territodude]

Hi, great video. Can you tell me if you have to drain the trans fluid to replace the solenoids? Not sure if there will be a giant mess when pulling off the trans cooler lines and cover or not. thanks in advance

[@Venturi2012]

If you don't drain any fluid, it will pour out the side cover especially being the trans is on a downward angle. When I did mine I didn't want to mess with pulling both pans for one job, so I pulled a cooler line and ran the car until I got a gallon of fluid out to minimize spillage, but still got plenty. Id do it the same way again but go for 1.5 gallons.

[@territodude]

Venturi2012 Thanks for getting back to me, appreciate it! Better than to learn the hard way with fluid all over the place. Do you know if that trans will run if the 4th thrust washer was missing? I think that is what I found,part of it in the pan when this thing would slip in all gears. I changed the fluid and it ran for several miles then crapped out again but it will move after letting it sit and starting it back up again for a few feet so I'm thinking it is probably a clogged up solenoid even though they all seem to check out ohms wise. One post on here said he found the same thing in his pan and just changed the fluid and filter and was back on the road.

[@Venturi2012]

+territodude I would think that it could still operate with one missing, but I would never let it go back together without replacing it. Those set where the clutch hub sits so the clutches align properly. I don't think the 4th thrust washers usually end up in the pan. There is however a lube dam that is common to fall apart and end up in the pan, it goes near the differential. That's probably what you found. i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee98/agrazela/LubeDam.jpg

[@Venturi2012]

99% chance yes. Very common problem in the 98-03½ years. How many miles, and any other issues?

[@sonnylee001]

do I have to drop the cradle or can it come out the wheel well?

[@3DraggedOutAndShot3]

instead of using a razor blade, would scotchbrite do the trick?

[@Venturi2012]

Anything that will leave marks in the aluminum is not recommended. I have used a scotchbrite pad to intentionally leave crosshatches in accumulator bores to help lubrication, I wouldn't recommend it for gasket sealing surfaces. If used right, a razor blade works best.

[@carnage50x]

I'm having the same problem with my 03 GT. The only "tool" I would need is a engine jack. How hard is it to pull the engine? How long would it take? And any tipes would be great fully appreciated.

[@Venturi2012]

You want to pull the engine for a transmission issue?

[@jokerogl77]

I just did the same thing to a grand prix gt and it still wont engage 4th the only thing i replaced new on it was the hub shaft and gaskets could it be a thrust washer?

[@Venturi2012]

How did the hub fit into the sun gear? Did it feel like the splines engaged? It's rare but the inner splines can strip as well. Check for codes after driving over 45 mph for a bit and check the codes without turning the key off (after the drive). Go from there, it may need to come apart again. Either you get a code (electrical) or something mechanical isn't right.

[@JohnCampbellARM]

Also, did you reuse your existing clutches and steels, or replace them with new ones. If they were new ones, where did you get them,. and what were the specific one called that you used for this job?

[@Venturi2012]

I bought the parts from amazon. The part numbers will get you the right stuff. I did not replace any of the clutches or steels.

[@mph5896]

Silent Video? Looking good!

[@Venturi2012]

No..there were crickets and the occasional bird chirps...lol. Thanks, this was mainly just to show what's involved in a job like this. I was thinking of using annotations to label parts.

[@pilzlove]

That's in the valve body thanks

[@gsxellence]

Thank you great video

[@pilzlove]

Thank you

[@jorgegar5055]

great video if you could only get rid of the stupid ads on the bottom or place the captions on top, even after closing them the captions are blacked out where the ads was

[@Venturi2012]

ads should have an x on the top right to get rid of it.

[@heathicusmaximus8170]

Probably not worth it after 204k eh

[@Venturi2012]

If you do it yourself and don't mind spending the time, and no other problems are present I'd do it. Then if it broke later with a more serious issue have it rebuilt and let them know what's already done so they don't replace the parts you already did. Besides these transmissions are pretty reliable after these parts are replaced, only two more common problems left. The input clutch piston and the forward apply band...and a few things in the valve body.

[@bubbacoz]

shhhhhhhhhhhh quiet 😉😂