Replacing Brake Pads and Rotors- 2017 Toyota Yaris

[@kenkingsflyingmachines2382]

Well, I did it. Yours was the first video I looked at and the best. Of course, I didn't suddenly whip out my friggin' impact wrench to take the wheels off, but... Thanks!

[@ClayCarlino]

Good Job! And thanks for the comment! It always makes me happy when I hear that one of my videos was helpful to someone.

[@fredy3395]

Ken King's Flying Machines Do you have a video on how to rebuild the real axel shaft and hub? Or could you guide me to another video? Got I too and accident and have nothing in the back! Any tips will help thanks!

[@Billy-jf6rb]

Thanks a lot! I have an ‘18 and it’s a spaceship compared to everything else I own. Glad to see that brakes haven’t dramatically changed as well.

[@ClayCarlino]

It’s kind of amazing to me how much the mechanical side of cars stays the same over the years. Computers control more and more of the operation of the engine and the interface with the driver, but coolant still gets pumped through the engine and radiator, spark plugs still ignite fuel and brakes still compress pretty much the way they have for decades. Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting!

[@ClayCarlino]

Good to know. I've only run into that once or twice before, but it was memerable enough that I'm always watching out for it now.

[@flamingohead27]

"I don't know what it's like working on new cars" lol amen! Personally I like to use a tiny bit of Anti-Seize Lubricant between the knuckle and rotor so it's easier to remove later. I've had parts "frozen" and I don't like taking a 'sledgehammer' to the car if I don't have too lol. My parts guy also liked using it on the bolts so they wouldn't rust. But this is a newer car...

[@ClayCarlino]

You are indeed wise! Yeah. Anti-seize is such a good idea. I never think of using it at the time, but I always regret no doing it when I have stuck bolts and frozen parts! I need to get better about that. Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting!

[@jovantasevski9986]

Hi Clay. Thanks for the video. I m just about change the pads and rotors. Do you by any chance made a video on changing the rear wheel bearings? Greetings from Denmark. 🇩🇰

[@oscararredondo7512]

Do you got a video showing how to change break shoes from the rear

[@ClayCarlino]

Sadly, not for this model car. I do have a video about doing rear breaks on my old Saturn, but it’s not the same. Sorry! Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting!

[@JD8899-l9p]

Thanks bro they told me it will be over 1000 dollars to do mines

[@ClayCarlino]

OH NO NO NO NO!!! $1000 for brakes and rotors?!!! That HAS to be at a dealer! Oh I'm SO GLAD you didn't do that! I heard a similar story from my neighbor. He had a Tiguan equipped with an e-brake that they said would cost an extra $200 just to retract the cylinder! I retracted the cylinder myself by disconnecting the power wires to the little motor that actuates the cylinder and powering the motor with wires connected to the battery. I was able to change the brakes and the rotors for him. The only side effect was that when we put everything back together it had generated a brake error code, and since I do not have a vagcom device, he had to go to the dealer to clear it. But at least that was only $100 instead of $1000! Thanks for commenting! I'm really glad this video was helpful for you!

[@jx36]

jeez, this guy working on jacked up cars with sandals on

[@asif5th]

torque specs and metric bolt size? thanks!

[@teamramrodmtb]

Very good video. As far as having to twist the calipers back in, it's usually only the rear brakes for certain cars. Cars which the ebrake (or parking brake) just uses the calipers and pads of the regular rear brakes, as opposed to having its own separate drum mechanism are the ones that you have to twist the caliper pistons back in.

[@Cbrmansc77]

This video was great I have a yaris and it's a great car

[@ClayCarlino]

Thanks! That was my friend's Yaris, but it seemed nice. Is it wrong to say they are very cute cars? Anyway, I'm glad you liked the video. Thanks for commenting!

[@Cbrmansc77]

@@ClayCarlino I tell you a funny story, I had a GM car that died after 80K miles and I was like f this I'm going to buy a toyota, picked up a new IA and found out that I bought a Mazda 2 sedan llol They are great little cars but I wish they had a little more power. But they are geared really high.

[@ClayCarlino]

@@Cbrmansc77 wow! That's awesome! Yeah, these little cars aren't very powerful, but they sure are work horses. Cute too. I loved the small cars I've owned over the years. They're like members of the family! Thanks for commenting!

[@HaloGTMaster94]

Nice 👍

[@ClayCarlino]

Thanks! Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting!

[@jovachepi4309]

Next video how check transmission oil please thank you

[@ClayCarlino]

Sadly, my friend who had the Yaris traded it in. But in general I know for most transmissions you get the vehicle on a level surface, start it up, let it idle to get up to normal operating temp, cycle through the gears ending in park then check the fluid with the dipstick. Now its a bit trickier on a car with a non-servicable transmission, but that's a whole other issue! Anyway, thanks for watching and thanks for commenting!

[@rstephe]

Commented a few months back and now time to do replace my Yaris front pads. Anyone know the torque for the bolts?

[@ClayCarlino]

I'm sorry. I don't know the torque for the bolts. I know this is not a great thing to admit but I don't torque the bolts. I know I should but on a lot of things I just don't. When I changed my oil pan, i torqued. When I put on my valve cover I torqued. But when I do brakes almost never do. Sorry. I know that's not the right answer. Now one thing that I do always do is any time I buy a vehicle, I always get a shop manual for it. Haynes and Chilton manuals are usually about 20 bucks. While they can often times be pretty limited, they do have torque values at the ends of each chapter. So if you can't find the answer online, that's another option that personally, I'd do even if I didn't need the torque specs. Sorry I couldn't answer your question. Hope that's at least helpful in some way. Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting!

[@Billy-jf6rb]

I typically go with finger tight and then 1/4 turn further with a wrench. Hasn’t failed me yet! Also, don’t do that with anything made of aluminum.

[@gogutterprofessionals]

What size is the metric bolt you used to pop that rotor out of there?

[@ClayCarlino]

So sorry it took me so long to reply! It's an M8 x 1.25. Hope that is still helpful! Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting!

[@vilsan.r.9875]

Torque specs?

[@mpa1931]

Wheres the best place to lift the car to get the jack stand in the pinch weld?

[@ClayCarlino]

Okay- confession time. I have done TERRIBLE things to my pinch welds by jacking the car using my floorjack and just it's normal pad. Being more conscious of other people's cars, what I've done is using a piece of 4x4 post, I took a circular saw and cut a slot roughly an inch deep down the length of the post. I made several passes to widen the slot to accomodate the pinch weld. I'd lift the vehicle with the vehicle's factory jack which is designed to lift it safely without damaging the vehicle at one of the safe jack points (usually right behind the front wheels or right in front of the rear wheels. I get the vehicle as high as I can, then place 2 jack stands (or stacks of bricks or cinder blocks) next to each other supporting the length of my piece of post. Then I slowly lower the jack on top ensuring that the pinch weld goes down into the slot in the post. Once the vehicle's weight is distributed on the jack stands, I stop lowering and leave the jack in place. In this way, the weight of the vehicle is distributed from the jack all the along the length of the post. That helps ensure that no one place on the pinch weld will get crushed. I found a video here that talks about a pad for jacks that helps with this problem: Https://kzbin.info/www/bejne/l6K1fqejn5martU The other option is to put the jack stands under the axles. Hope that helps! Thanks for commenting.

[@rstephe]

The pads had plenty of meat still and the rotors looked fine. May I ask, why did we do a break job on this? Don't get me wrong. I appreciate you sharing as I prepare to do the brakes on my own Yaris soon.

[@ClayCarlino]

This was my friend's car and he was experiencing rough braking. He'd be slowing down and he'd feel the car jerking as it slows rather than coming to a smooth stop. He complains that one of his family members tends to ride the brakes, and suspects that the rotors got too hot and warped. Now my experience when dealing with that kind of issue if the rotor warps and I get problems like that, I change both the pads and the rotors at the same time. It's been my experience that often times uneven surfaces on the rotors will cause uneven wear on the pads and vice versa, so changing both at the same time ensure that both surfaces are back to factory spec. Now I'm probably being over-kill on this, but that's at least my thought process. Thanks for asking! That's a very good observation! Thanks again.

[@jdportwerks6795]

Good video!

[@CosalaX3]

Had a question, I replaced everything exactly the way you did, but now they are stuck or too tight together. Any advice? Thanks 👍🏼

[@ClayCarlino]

Well that's not a lot to go on, but I have had what sounds like the same problem on other vehicles. Make sure the brake pads move freely in the caliper. Sometimes they fit in too tight and bind up. When that happens I've had to file the outside edges where they contact the caliper just enough to allow them to fit a little more loosely. Also, make sure the the brake cylinder has been retracted all the way back. Even having it stick out a millimeter or two can be too much when replacing both pads and rotors. Lastly, make sure the guide pins are moving freely. If they are at all sticky, pull them out and either polish them until they are smooth as glass and shine, or replace them. In either case make sure any grease is clean and smooth. If you have to replace grease, make sure to remove ALL the old grease and use proper brake grease for the new. Mixing unknown greases can ruin the lubricating properties and cause your brakes to bind then fail. Sorry. I KNOW that's a lot, but hopefully it helps. Please feel free to let me know if you have any more questions, or even just to let me know how it goes. Good luck!

[@kavc001]

What socket size did you use for the big bolts holding the brake caliper to the rest of the assembly?

[@ClayCarlino]

I'm sorry, I don't remember. Unfortunately, my friend doesn't even have that car anymore, so there's no way to even go check. BUT, if you look at frame 2:11, it seems that the socket is the same diameter as the adapter on the end on my breaker bar. That being the case I'd say it has to be a 15 or 16. (I'm betting it's the 15.) Hope that helps! Good luck.

[@one_three_eight]

14mm

[@rigolozio]

i also want to ask for the size of the bolt you used to pull out the rotor. is it the same size i can use it to remove the rear drums?

[@ClayCarlino]

I think its a metric bolt. M8x1.25. As for if its the same as what you use on the drums, I don't know.

[@rigolozio]

hi, what pads and rotors brand do you recommend ? and where can i check for the right size form my 2016 yaris?

[@ClayCarlino]

I don't really have a preference on brand. I go into the auto parts store, give them the year, make and model of my vehicle and they'll look up the parts I need and usually tell me a cheap option a mid range option and a high option. I tend to go for the mid range but if the high option isn't THAT much more, I may go for the best quality. If I'm unsure I'll look up the parts on amazon (if they have them) just to read the customer reviews. As for size, as I said, if you know the year, make and model, the parts stores will know the right size. On line stores are the same. Especially on an economy car like the Yaris, where I wouldn't expect for there to be a lot of different rotor sizes available. You may also try going to Volkswagen's website and entering your VIN number. They may be able to list all the equipment installed on your specific vehicle. I hope all that helps! Good luck.

[@ReasonablySane]

looks like my 2016 Scion iA. Don't tell anyone, but it's really a Masda 2. 🤣

[@ClayCarlino]

Wow! I knew that a Scion was a Toyota, I did not know that it was also a Mazda! It reminds me a little of when I was looking for parts for my Charger, I found out that some of the parts were from Mercedes! Who knew?! Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting!

[@ReasonablySane]

@@ClayCarlino I have three Scions: A Toyota (first gen xB) A Mazda (iA) A Subaru (FR-S) 🤣 The xB has 226k miles and hasn't even needed a new clutch yet. That sucker is totally reliable and smooth as puddin'. The FR-S was my main commuter before Covid. It has 187k miles on it. Rock solid, still. The iA spends a lot of time going from our home in South Central Kentucky to Chicago and Seattle to see family. It only has 130k miles on it. The serpentine belt broke three hours from our house when my wife was driving it back from Chicago a couple of weeks ago. The three hours were annoying, but I picked up a new belt for $20 and installed it at a service station off I65 she was able to get into. Totally my fault. I forgot to inspect the belts when I did the last oil change. It was due. The only one that has ANY oil leak is the iA, and that is probably because I didn't replace the compression ring on the drain plug.

[@ClayCarlino]

@@ReasonablySane WOW! Dude, you seriously have my respect! I know Toyotmazdascions are reliable, but no car reaches mileages like those in good working order by accident! It’s a testament to your hard work and skill that your vehicles have served you so well for so long! I had my little Saturn SC2 for YEARS! It was 19 years old with (I think) 179k miles when I finally let her go with a blown engine. And honestly, I really thought about fixing her even then, but by that time I was really wanting something with a back seat sized for adults, and that was definitely not the Saturn. Good job! Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting!

[@ReasonablySane]

@@ClayCarlino I should throw this out. I drove my FRS on the twisties of Kentucky to work everyday. A 150 mi round trip with virtually no traffic and no reason to slow down to speak of and I had a 6-speed. This is no joke. My first brake job was at 142,000 Miles and there was still pad left so I did replace the pads and I was good to go.

[@AntonioReyes-jq5hl]

What kind or size of screw did you use to take off the disc rotor?

[@ClayCarlino]

I think it's an M8x1.25 thread. At the time, I just scrounged one of the many bolts I had laying around until I found one that fit. Good luck.

[@AntonioReyes-jq5hl]

@@ClayCarlino thank you so much for the info, and the video was really explained.

[@ClayCarlino]

@@AntonioReyes-jq5hl you are very welcome! I'm always so glad to hear that!

[@JG-ss9xy]

Where did you purchase the rotors and how much? Thank you

[@ClayCarlino]

My friend purchased the rotors. (It was his car.) I believe he just went to an auto parts store but I don't know which one. I think they were between $60 to $90 a piece, but it was quite a while ago, so I really don't know for sure. Sorry I don't have better answers. Generally, when I'm looking for rotors, I'll first check amazon. It'll ask the year make and model of the car and sometimes what trim package it is. Then I'll try my local auto parts stores and price them out there. Amazon is usually cheapest, but if the price is close, I will sometimes get the parts at the store so I don't have to wait. Hope that helps. Good luck on your repairs!

[@JG-ss9xy]

Clay Carlino Amazon have the best prices on this days local auto parts are super expensive .... thanks a lot!

[@ClayCarlino]

You're so right! I would have paid over $400 to do the front and back brakes and rotors on my truck if I got the parts at the stores. I got the parts as kits from amazon for half that and they came with both cleaner spray and brake fluid! Thanks for commenting!

[@ibobdingle]

awesome man

[@ClayCarlino]

Thanks!

[@742Timbox]

you did well but I always clean & regrease the guide pins. you're lucky you didn't mess up the brake caliber NOT using a C- clamp because the way you did it it would've been very easy to.

[@ClayCarlino]

You're absolutely right about the guide pins! I should do that every time. This was a reletively new car at the time, and the motion in the calipers felt good, so we skipped it. That's not really an excuse, its just the justification we used at the time. I didn't realize compressing the cylinder in the way did was risky. I'll be mindful of that next time. Thanks for the good insights. You obviously know your stuff! Thanks for commenting!

[@hmsailor6133]

good video but you totally skipped the part where you remove and install the pads.

[@ClayCarlino]

You had me worried! I re-watched the video and you're right about not showing taking the pads off. I took off the caliper mount and the front pad came off with it. Then I don't show actually removing the back pad. If you go to the 3:55 you can see me putting the new pads on though. Still, yeah... there's no point where I expressly say "now I take out the pads, and here's where I put new ones back in." I've done several brake pad videos. So at this point, I end up feeling like if I show where all the bolts are and how things go together, people will be already know how to slide the pads out. I shouldn't do that. I need to remember that just because I've done this job a bunch of times, someone looking it up for the first time hasn't. I'll be more detailed next time! Thanks for commenting!