Replacing broken door handle on a 1995 Mitsubishi eclipse.

[@iHenry2]

One of the best videos on door handle replacement.

[@BOLASDEMADERA01]

Thank you ...I really appreciate it.

[@pc6181]

Great video showing hand positions in removing and re-installing door handle!

[@BOLASDEMADERA01]

I'm glad you like the video... thank you!!.

[@roberteugenemiller9499]

Great instructional video, good job man

[@superluciole2601]

Thanks, just broke mine ^^

[@BOLASDEMADERA01]

Fairly easy fix. glad i could help...

[@judyjordan]

Great video Thanks!! I am having the same problem as others have mentioned. The lock cylinder will not snap into place. Keeps falling back into the door. If you have any suggestions I'd really appreciate it.

[@pc6181]

I had the same problem. In my case, a portion of the plastic door handle had to be "filed down" with a metal file. If you look at the area of the plastic door handle that "grips" the lock cylinder, you will see 5 "ribs" that surround the lock cylinder and each spans the length of the lock cylinder. There are 2 upper ribs, 2 lower ribs and 1 middle rib that "faces the front of the car". In my case, this last "middle rib" was too thick and had to be "filed down" with a metal file. When I compared my new door handle with the old, broken door handle, I noticed that the middle rib on the old handle was obviously filed down when compared to the other 4 ribs. Apparently, whoever made the old handle had made this very important modification. In looking at photos of the filing that I had done on the new door handle, I would estimate that approximately 1 millimeter of the plastic "middle rib" was removed by filing down the rib with a small, metal file. A rotary Dremel tool can be used in place of a metal file but be sure to use eye protection or face mask. --------------------------- UPDATE Dec 29, 2020 Yesterday, I replaced my 4th driver-side door handle and had the same problem. I learned a new procedure - try this. (1) remove the metal c-clip from the new door handle, (2) gently pull the lock cylinder through the door and (3) press the lock cylinder into the new door handle, (4) observe that the lock cylinder has upper and lower "tabs" that align with the door handle, (5) visually check if the lock cylinder is fully seated in the door handle; visually check if the upper and lower "tabs" on the lock cylinder are "below" where the metal c-clip would engage with the upper and lower tabs; if either upper or lower tab is not below where the metal c-clip would engage with the tab, you will probably have to file down one or more of the "inside ribs" on the door handle; (5a) remove the lock cylinder and inspect the 5 "inside ribs" - there are 2 upper ribs, 2 lower ribs, and 1 middle rib; look for signs of the lock cylinder scraping one or more inside ribs; if you see that one or more inside ribs have been scraped, use a small metal file and file down those one or more inside ribs; be careful and just file down a little at a time and then go back to step (5) and re-check; (5b) yesterday, after performing steps (5) and (5a), I was still not able to fully seat the lock cylinder into the door handle; I then inspected the new door handle's metal c-clip and compared it to the old door handle's metal c-clip; I noticed that the new clip was just a bit thicker than the old clip; I then installed the old metal c-clip AND THE LOCK CYLINDER FINALLY SNAPPED INTO PLACE! The lesson here is: if the old clip worked, you may need to re-use it. (6) in my original reply, I suggested only filing down the "middle rib" but I've learned that you may need to file down one or more "inside ribs"; just be careful and only file a little at a time; so the process is: file down one or more inside ribs a little at a time, inspect, file some more, inspect, ... (7) in my original reply, I also suggested that a Dremel tool can be used to file down the inside ribs; a Dremel tool will work but may remove too much material if you're not careful; it's probably best and safer to just use a small metal file

[@JohnnyBlaze6954]

Mine broke this morning! Took it apart and getting the metal rod into the white piece is so fucking hard! I got frustrated cuz the sun was in my face and will finish the install tonight lol

[@BOLASDEMADERA01]

I know not enough space to work in. Just lineup the tip of the metal rod to the white plastic hole piece and pull until you hear it snap in. Good Luck!

[@queeneboy566]

Thanks for the video man.! Had to replace them on my gst.(both of them.) I've only done drivers side at the moment but my problem is, the lock cylinder keeps falling out.(the spring doesn't have enough tension to hold it in place.) what do I do.?! Did I bend the spring to much.? Also I have power locks so there's a plastic piece that goes at the end of the cylinder that won't stay on either. Any advice.?

[@pc6181]

I had the same problem. In my case, a portion of the plastic door handle had to be "filed down" with a metal file. If you look at the area of the plastic door handle that "grips" the lock cylinder, you will see 5 "ribs" that surround the lock cylinder and each spans the length of the lock cylinder. There are 2 upper ribs, 2 lower ribs and 1 middle rib that "faces the front of the car". In my case, this last "middle rib" was too thick and had to be "filed down" with a metal file. When I compared my new door handle with the old, broken door handle, I noticed that the middle rib on the old handle was obviously filed down when compared to the other 4 ribs. Apparently, whoever made the old handle had made this very important modification. In looking at photos of the filing that I had done on the new door handle, I would estimate that approximately 1 millimeter of the plastic "middle rib" was removed by filing down the rib with a small, metal file. A rotary Dremel tool can be used in place of a metal file but be sure to use eye protection or face mask. ------------------- UPDATE Dec 29, 2020 Yesterday, I replaced my 4th driver-side door handle and had the same problem. I learned a new procedure - try this. (1) remove the metal c-clip from the new door handle, (2) gently pull the lock cylinder through the door and (3) press the lock cylinder into the new door handle, (4) observe that the lock cylinder has upper and lower "tabs" that align with the door handle, (5) visually check if the lock cylinder is fully seated in the door handle; visually check if the upper and lower "tabs" on the lock cylinder are "below" where the metal c-clip would engage with the upper and lower tabs; if either upper or lower tab is not below where the metal c-clip would engage with the tab, you will probably have to file down one or more of the "inside ribs" on the door handle; (5a) remove the lock cylinder and inspect the 5 "inside ribs" - there are 2 upper ribs, 2 lower ribs, and 1 middle rib; look for signs of the lock cylinder scraping one or more inside ribs; if you see that one or more inside ribs have been scraped, use a small metal file and file down those one or more inside ribs; be careful and just file down a little at a time and then go back to step (5) and re-check; (5b) yesterday, after performing steps (5) and (5a), I was still not able to fully seat the lock cylinder into the door handle; I then inspected the new door handle's metal c-clip and compared it to the old door handle's metal c-clip; I noticed that the new clip was just a bit thicker than the old clip; I then installed the old metal c-clip AND THE LOCK CYLINDER FINALLY SNAPPED INTO PLACE! The lesson here is: if the old clip worked, you may need to re-use it. (6) in my original reply, I suggested only filing down the "middle rib" but I've learned that you may need to file down one or more "inside ribs"; just be careful and only file a little at a time; so the process is: file down one or more inside ribs a little at a time, inspect, file some more, inspect, ... (7) in my original reply, I also suggested that a Dremel tool can be used to file down the inside ribs; a Dremel tool will work but may remove too much material if you're not careful; it's probably best and safer to just use a small metal file

[@BigVegasAlwaysWins]

Nice video

[@AngelRios-pk4ue]

Im having trouble putting the key whole back into place

[@BOLASDEMADERA01]

Try to move the silver ring to the side With a flat screwdriver so you can insert the key cylinder back into place. It can only go in one way. then snapped back the silver ring into place so it can hold the key knob cylider in place. Good luck. 10:04

[@pc6181]

I had the same problem. In my case, a portion of the plastic door handle had to be "filed down" with a metal file. If you look at the area of the plastic door handle that "grips" the lock cylinder, you will see 5 "ribs" that surround the lock cylinder and each spans the length of the lock cylinder. There are 2 upper ribs, 2 lower ribs and 1 middle rib that "faces the front of the car". In my case, this last "middle rib" was too thick and had to be "filed down" with a metal file. When I compared my new door handle with the old, broken door handle, I noticed that the middle rib on the old handle was obviously filed down when compared to the other 4 ribs. Apparently, whoever made the old handle had made this very important modification. In looking at photos of the filing that I had done on the new door handle, I would estimate that approximately 1 millimeter of the plastic "middle rib" was removed by filing down the rib with a small, metal file. A rotary Dremel tool can be used in place of a metal file but be sure to use eye protection or face mask. --------------------------- UPDATE Dec 29, 2020 Yesterday, I replaced my 4th driver-side door handle and had the same problem. I learned a new procedure - try this. (1) remove the metal c-clip from the new door handle, (2) gently pull the lock cylinder through the door and (3) press the lock cylinder into the new door handle, (4) observe that the lock cylinder has upper and lower "tabs" that align with the door handle, (5) visually check if the lock cylinder is fully seated in the door handle; visually check if the upper and lower "tabs" on the lock cylinder are "below" where the metal c-clip would engage with the upper and lower tabs; if either upper or lower tab is not below where the metal c-clip would engage with the tab, you will probably have to file down one or more of the "inside ribs" on the door handle; (5a) remove the lock cylinder and inspect the 5 "inside ribs" - there are 2 upper ribs, 2 lower ribs, and 1 middle rib; look for signs of the lock cylinder scraping one or more inside ribs; if you see that one or more inside ribs have been scraped, use a small metal file and file down those one or more inside ribs; be careful and just file down a little at a time and then go back to step (5) and re-check; (5b) yesterday, after performing steps (5) and (5a), I was still not able to fully seat the lock cylinder into the door handle; I then inspected the new door handle's metal c-clip and compared it to the old door handle's metal c-clip; I noticed that the new clip was just a bit thicker than the old clip; I then installed the old metal c-clip AND THE LOCK CYLINDER FINALLY SNAPPED INTO PLACE! The lesson here is: if the old clip worked, you may need to re-use it. (6) in my original reply, I suggested only filing down the "middle rib" but I've learned that you may need to file down one or more "inside ribs"; just be careful and only file a little at a time; so the process is: file down one or more inside ribs a little at a time, inspect, file some more, inspect, ... (7) in my original reply, I also suggested that a Dremel tool can be used to file down the inside ribs; a Dremel tool will work but may remove too much material if you're not careful; it's probably best and safer to just use a small metal file