Replacing Front Stabilizer Sway Bar End Link on Ford F150

[@operationbs7610]

Best method right there folks...EASY. EXCELLENT JOB

[@summersoberanis5378]

thank you much for your time !! you are helping alot a people just like me . Have a bless life Man.

[@ryancainion7539]

Ford has an engineering problem with these that causes unnecessary wear and tear. I did something different. I bought 3 stablizer links and used the rubber bushings and washers along with my one good side stabilizer to reconfigure this setup. I took the old one out on each side and inserted new ones. I then rebuilt each stabilizer from bottom up. (Washer dome side up cupping)-rubber-(washer-washer both domed sides against each other)-rubber-(washer dome side up cupping rubber)-under sway bar. On top of sway bar goes washer with dome side down - cotter pin -w- locking nut. I'm into 6 months of driving and holding strong. I wish I could post a pic. If anyone is interested, I'll inbox you on how this looks. It's very stable and even my mechanic was like it makes sense.

[@Ericsaidful]

Public Service Announcement: the swaybar link is installed incorrectly. The nut on the bottom of the link should go UNDER the control arm, not on top of the control arm. If you install it on the control arm like this guy you will not only lose your new link but possibly damage your control arm and other suspension components that rely on the sway bar to bear impacts and absorb some shock. Again, the nut should NOT go on top of the control arm. I installed mine correctly and you should have only one nut and that nut goes on the underside of the control arm.

[@sergiomagno6793]

You can tell that nut is in the wrong place... I was just thinking, he just took that nut off, he can’t forget that quickly???

[@SuperUncleRyan]

It's done right. You are wrong. The replacement is a different design.

[@Ericsaidful]

@@SuperUncleRyan ah, a CAJUN. As an App State fan, I know I'm right on this. Maybe it's a different design but I know mine was not set up like that. Metal on metal contact in an area absorbing rolling and bumps makes no sense to me. If it's rhe design, it's a bad design.

[@jokrazy2002]

I was thinking the same thing

[@chevysilberado28]

Do your research my guy. He did it right! This bar links come like that to make it easier to change out next time. That way you can hold on the nut on the top of the control arm and take the bottom nut off without it spinning on you.

[@kaiokenx1005]

Thanks. I need to instal this on my f150. Very good information.

[@gadnuk7159]

Mine looks like the one in the video and I’ll be replacing it but did your truck shake like crazy when hitting the brakes and did this fix it? Thanks

[@alejandrocastrosierra1652]

GRACIAS , ME HA SIDO MUY UTIL EL VIDEO.

[@Omar-yr5uk]

Justo lo que necesito hacer. Ya tengo la pza :) gracias

[@SanchoGracie]

Mine are completely gone on my Expie. It's like driving a boat. Gotta love Ford engineering sometimes.

[@dustincanty4077]

Thanks for the video Definitely help me out alot man

[@garypitzer8729]

Thanks for showing how to do this.

[@timniedzwiecki859]

Great video. Helped a lot. Thank you !,

[@carlscott5490]

It didn't go back on correctly..the bottom bushing should rest on the bottom control arm, the nutt should be under the lower control arm

[@texxs01]

Another question: Is this why I'm having trouble staying in my lane? Or do I need to investigate further? I know I need to fix this because my bushings are gone, but is it possible I'll be able to stay in my lane better after this?

[@josuesb29]

that the top nut keeps loosening all the time?

[@derouenbrenda9498]

What is the problem of swaying is at the rear of the truck what do I do next

[@MeMoDoRo]

Hi..we need torque the tap nut .??

[@MachineHeadRepairProjects]

Not really between 40 to 50 ft.lb. is fine

[@hypnotoad1976]

That’s the wrong link..I just did mine today and the nut on the bottom is all wrong!

[@ABWeaver]

How much should this cost and how long does it take?

[@ramirodorado1053]

He put it wrong,the bottom bushing should rest on the lower control arm

[@cachetesflaco]

He did it right....that's how it looks in my car....

[@CopCat34]

Thank you. I always compare the vehicle I am working on to the KZbin video. Most KZbin videos are pretty accurate.

[@TheJhn924]

It sure seems wrong...

[@Ericsaidful]

@@TheJhn924 I thought the same thing. That nut on the control arm may end up breaking the linkage and the control arm together.

[@TheJhn924]

@@Ericsaidful Watched this a couple weeks ago because somehow my drivers side end link was missing. On the new one I bought and installed the nut definitely went at the bottom...

[@thetexasgreek]

My 2006 doesn't have the 8mm nut at the bottom

[@johnwalters7415]

The bottom rubber don't set all the way down

[@ericking4072]

MY 97-F-150'S SWAYBAR WAS CONNECTED WITH A PLASTIC FASTENER WTH?&IT JUST SNAPPED.

[@texxs01]

Question: Can one just replace the bushings or does it have to be the linkage AND it's bushings?

[@myballsitchsomethingfierce6319]

No, replace the entire link links are less than 40 bucks for both sides online don't cheap out when it comes to your safety.

[@SanchoGracie]

I paid $18 each. It took less than an hour.

[@brianheidel4550]

most come in a kit that includes everything, and doesn't cost much. better to just replace everything.

[@ega0117]

Is the valuecraft better than the Ford OEM part?

[@392cartier2]

Such a stupid design on fords end a Chevy only has one nut on top and a long screw.

[@texxs01]

That's why Chevy's cost more. They are better. But Fords are way better than they used to be, especially the trucks. Hell, they don't burst into flame by themselves any more! What more can you want? P.S. I can say this, I'm on my third Ford.