Replacing the Ryobi Electric Riding Lawn Mower's Stupid Batteries with Lithium Ion

[@anoraker]

If you found this tutorial helpful, would you consider giving me a SuperThanks? Thank you!

[@TooCule]

I would happily give you a well-deserved SuperThanks, but I don't have a PayPal account, and otherwise it requires that.I save a credit card number to their system, which I will not do. Sorry.

[@anoraker]

@@TooCule completely understand, thanks for the good thoughts!

[@jayne2937]

Absolutely ! A SUPER THANKS is an understatement!!! This video was the most helpful information that I found on this mower after searching for a week (and even got a chuckle or two 😂😂😂)… told me every single thing that I needed to know, the little ‘fyi’s were EXTREMELY helpful, and I’ve finally got my mower up and running with my DIY lithium battery installation which saved me hundreds of dollars … not to mention over 100 round trip to the closest Ryobi service center! Thank you SO MUCH!!!

[@jamesestes6060]

I also have a RM480EX and the old SLA batteries died after only 2.5 years. I like the size and capabilities of the mower, it fits in my garage, fits through the gates on my fence, and has been very useful. I even have a tow behind cart, aerator, and leaf sweeper. I was tempted to go back to gas but a decent gas powered rider was going to cost about $3k, and I didn't want to pay $4500 or so for a new lithium machine. I used the links you provided and purchased 4 new LifPo4 batteries and the charger and my mower is now running great again. Thank you for posting this video, the upgrade worked exactly as you had said and it really couldn't have been any easier.

[@anoraker]

That's absolutely fantastic! And hopefully you got through it with less, "oh shoot, I done dropped all the batteries" than me! 😅

[@Gary-b7g]

I was one of the first to buy the Ryobi 480. The batteries lasted 2 years. If I had known that this was going last only 2 years after paying 4K, I would’ve bought a gas one for half the price. Ryobi screwed everyone who bought this. All you see now on You Tube, is how to spend another couple grand on how to replace them with lithium batteries. I was told by Ryobi to leave it plugged in during the winter months because I lived in a colder state. They should be sued for omitting performance issues about the batteries in this mower. Gary D.

[@jayne2937]

Agreed! Thankfully, when I purchased, I got a STELLAR price … but I still would have continued searching had I known the batteries were worthless after two seasons. I just found all 4 lithium batteries for under $700 with free delivery and installed myself, thanks to this very helpful video ~ and hopefully extended the life of my mower for MORE than 2 seasons now!! If this still turns out to be an ongoing thing, Ryobi will have not heard the last of me 😡😡

[@GregHassler]

I'm 3 years in and my batteries have no capacity loss. I'd like to do the lithium upgrade regardless, and the prices are dropping significantly

[@nightshadehelis9821]

I'm seriously so pissed. I also bought one for over $4k, along with a mountain of accessories. Home depot SPECIFICALLY told me that these batteries were covered for three years. I just attempted to use the warranty because I can't even get 10 minutes of use after babying this mower for two years. Their customer service made me jump through a mountain of hoops and after two months of talking, they told me it only has a one year warranty. WTF?!? Considering the price I paid, I genuinely believed these were lithium. I feel so mislead and bitter.

[@FlyinSticks]

​@@GregHasslerI thought the same until one day it just didn't work...

[@stephenschmith8174]

Total waste of money. Mine also only lasted 2 years and the replacement procedure is a PITA. A gas mower would've been much less headache and much much cheaper to operate.

[@Capt0n1337]

the wire at 9:50, mine broke, the plastic tip, is that critical for operation, and what could i do to fix., its the side on the battery, the white plastic tip.

[@anoraker]

It's a temperature sensor that's only needed for the old lead-acid batteries. So shouldn't matter if you don't have it anymore.

[@bigap5954]

It's common that the key goes bad when you turn it to the on position. Cheap fix is to wire it up to AUX like you did in your video.

[@FantomLightning]

Followed this and a couple other videos to convert the 42 inch ZTR variant to lithium. We ended up with 6 seasons and 100.2 hours of use on our SLA batteries, so much better than most I’ve seen. Can’t wait to see how much longer these batteries last, mower already performs an insane amount better than before due to the lighter weight and the blade motors don’t bog near as much. I opted to switch the connectors on the chargers so I didn’t have to modify the charge port.

[@scottfamilyadventures7811]

So 7 months later...is it still working?

[@anoraker]

I was planning to get it out this weekend to test exactly that... and it decided to rain non-stop, and will through Wednesday apparently. Hopefully I can break out the mower next weekend, and make a follow up video.

[@jimkuhlman8151]

Thank you for the write up! Can you explain the pre charge circuit? I did the conversion and all it will do is click, which is a main contactor. Nothing else. If I unplug and plug back in I can get the click again with the key turned on. Put the original batteries back in and all works as it should. Thank you for any help.

[@anoraker]

The batteries I recommend shouldn't need one... but some LiPo batteries can't handle the inrush current and it trips the BMS units, in which case you need a pre-charge circuit to slow the process and keep the BMS from tripping. You'll usually hear a click. It's starting to sound like you may need one. Check the voltage at the bottom two pins of the charging port, if less than 52v your bms is shutting off and you will need a precharge circuit, but if it's 48v or higher, your key switch may be the problem and you can try moving it to AUX as in my video. If you need a pre-charger here's a gentleman who builds pre-made automated ones for a reasonable price: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oH-oeJuenZiXg9E facebook.com/groups/2756962307675482/?ref=share_group_link

[@jimkuhlman8151]

@@anoraker Thank you. After the solenoid click checking the battery voltage at the charger port is 40vdc compared to 54 vdc before.

[@fpartidafpartida]

That bit at the end, where it didn’t work until you switched the starter wires to “AUX” was a life-saver. I was completely frustrated at my battery swap efforts. I triple checked everything, I know I did it all correctly, but still it didn’t work….until I flipped those connections. Thank you! Why do you think that is? I’m speculating that “on” has some sort of system “safety” check that AUX doesn’t go through. Anyway, I finally have the batteries Ryobi should have included in their product when it shipped from the factory. LFP 100 Ah. This should be good to go for really long time.

[@anoraker]

My understanding is that this key switch is pretty prone to failure all on its own. Likely the process of making the battery swap "irritates" things enough to force it a long. I've seen quite a few people swap the key switch for a push button solution.

[@bsargentrian]

Thank you for the video and instructions. My 480e batteries just went out on me (2000 year model). Making the switch to lithium...I bought the battery charger recommended in the details of your video. I'm trying to install my 480e charger plug onto the new charger...the 480e charger has three wires and the new charger only has 2. Is the third not needed?

[@anoraker]

Hello! Glad to help! The third wire isn't truly necessary (depending a bit on opinion). It serves two functions. It enables the blinking "charging" light on the mower, not so necessary with the nature of this charger. And it turns on a charging lockout... basically keeps you from turning on the mower and driving away while it's plugged in. Some people may see that as a super necessary safety feature, I don't. That said, you could use some resistors and a bit of soldering to re-enable the third pin if you were so inclined.

[@bsargentrian]

@@anoraker the batteries arrive next week. I'll let you know how it goes!

[@anoraker]

@@bsargentrian Good luck! I'll be pulling my lawn mower out of storage soon and doing a follow up on how they held up.

[@bsargentrian]

Successful transition to the lithium batteries. I did have to modify the battery tray a bit for the new batteries to fit, as they were wider than the original. I had to remove the center divider, which thankfully was only fastened by double sided tape and removed the forward spacer completely. But all in all, great project. And the key switch worked without having to use the AUX. Thanks again.

[@anoraker]

That's great to hear! Yeah, I chose the batteries I did just for the 1-to-1 fit, but if you don't mind the extra work saving money makes sense to me. Keep an eye on the key switch. It's my understanding that they just have a tendency to die randomly. If it stops working one day, try that first.@@bsargentrian

[@TheOhmarr21]

Just finished the tutorial, but I get a series of two clicks/clunks then nothing, unless I have the charger in the port it will start, And I charged it for the 8 hours +. Any ideas would be great. Thanks

[@anoraker]

Try moving the key switch like I described. These fail often and that's usually a symptom (though it can also be a symptom of other things).

[@TheOhmarr21]

@anoraker I did the key switch.

[@lucifersatan8968]

I love my RM480E. Petrol sucks. Ryobi have lithium ion versions now, but they are insanely expensive and if their tool batteries are anything to go by, they die in a few years also. With the RM480 versions, lifepo4 replacement batteries are actually cheaper than the newer lithium ion mower batteries. My mower is only 20 months old now. Bought it used. But my yard only takes 30 - 40 minutes to mow.

[@anoraker]

I think their mower lithium batteries will do better than the tools, it's a different setup and use case. But yes, in my case, it was cheaper to just buy these batteries and upgrade my mower than to buy yet another (lithium) mower.

[@danieljermynpcfl9951]

Did you use the same batteries from this video to replace the batteries in your rm480e?

[@lucifersatan8968]

@@danieljermynpcfl9951 I haven't replaced the original lead acid batteries yet. I hope to get another 2 years out of them.

[@Deploracle]

Petrol only sucks for layman who don't understand engines and/or refuse to try to learn about them. If you can test for spark, for fuel flow, and compression .. the mystery disappears.

[@MrCasper1271]

It's not just the not wanting to learn about them, it's about the mess it is to work on them, the smell of petrol makes my head hurt and I hate changing the oil and winterizing, electric is to the point where it's not quite as powerful but the convenience makes up for it in my use case

[@Capt0n1337]

Also the NEW charger uses TWO wires, NOT three, so when swapping the plastic housing for the plug, im not sure the orientation of wires, they are different colors. Any advice?

[@anoraker]

Honestly, at this point I recommend DON'T try to rewire the whole system. Instead, go to the charging port where you plug in the new housing. You'll notice it doesn't seem to fit... but the only problem is an (unnecessary) piece of plastic is blocking the way. Break that with some needle nose pliers and the new charger will fit perfectly. It's the safest course of action. I can't tell you what colors go where because the manufacturers of these chargers keep changing the colors.

[@DavidRoseborough-x4d]

Thank you so much for posting this! Turned out mine only had 75ah original batteries and I replaced with 100ah LiFePo that turned out to be the same size! Very easy to do after watching this.

[@Steven-uc2kt]

New to the channel- just tried this and need trouble shoot help... Nothing happens when I turn the key did the pin thing as in the video before hand and charger isn't charging... Swapped housing no change... Bigger mower too

[@anoraker]

Nothing happens at all? Not flashing or anything? Did you try swapping the key wiring to the auxiliary port as I discussed?

[@Steven-uc2kt]

@@anorakerthank you for the reply. So i checked the port and I do have 54volts and my batteries are charged. I have reached out to greg for a precharged circuit cuz I get two clicks and then nothing... Yes it's on my auxiliary ports and still only clicks

[@anoraker]

@@Steven-uc2kt yeah depending on the batteries, that may be the way to go. Greg knows his stuff though, so you're in good hands there!

[@ospreycove]

I live in Canada and my mower is at my cottage where we don't heat the garage through the winter. I've used my RM480e for a summer and a half at this point. My batteries were fine in the fall, but I'm worried about them leaving them in the cold (plugged and charging). Last winter I took the batteries out and kept them in a warmer area. I didn't charge them but they still worked fine last summer. So I'm nervous and will be anxious to see if everything works in the spring. I do have the key problem and will be making the switch to the Aux position in the spring. Hopefully that's all I need to do this year. Thanks for the video and links to the items you went with.

[@anoraker]

You're very welcome! Good luck! Hopefully the key fix is all you need.

[@mati74]

Mine is 4 years old. I more or less expected the batteries to go flat after some years, so I'm not super disappointed that it now happened. I live in Sweden, and the recent winters were quite moderate, I guess that helped. But this year, we got some severe ice age from November to March. That obviously killed the batteries, even though they were plugged in all the time. The most crazy thing is that - at least for us in Sweden - the original lead acid replacement batteries cost twice as much as the LiFePO4 batteries I ordered from Amazon.

[@FreeFloridaAirgunner]

thank you, thank you, thank you. I followed your instructions, got the same batteries and charger. Set everything up, turn the key and EVERYTHING WORKS GREAT!!!

[@anoraker]

That's wonderful! So glad I could help. These mowers are great, they just need better batteries!

[@danieljermynpcfl9951]

What mode do you use on the charger? Obviously 48V, but there's a lot of options for the mode

[@FreeFloridaAirgunner]

I just let the charger decide, unless you are trying to "repair" the old SLA batteries before you install the lithium batteries. Finally, remember lithium batteries will develop a "memory" if you short charge them. I've cut my grass (.50 acres) twice and still haven't had to charge them.

[@ZakiPolad]

Did you have to mess with the key or it worked as is

[@anoraker]

@@ZakiPolad It's quite possible you won't have to do the key swap. But it's a very frequent issue with this mower, unrelated to the battery swap. Just happened to fail on me while I did the swap.

[@robinearly5956]

Hope you can help, I got the batteries and the charger from amazon that you had linked. However, the charger was for 36 or 48 volt li-ion batteries, and the battery link was for 12 volt. So, changed out batteries, did the rewiring, mowed yard, went to charge, and it said batteries full. Did more research, it appeared that I needed the P35 charger. Ordered, hooked everything up, and the charger blew! I have no idea what to do now, batteries are out of juice but don't know how to charge. Sure hope you can tell me what to do.

[@equilibrium117]

Wiring up 4 x 12V batteries in series will equal 48v.

[@robinearly5956]

​@@equilibrium117ah, thank you, so I have the right charger, but when we plug it up, it says the batteries are full, but they are not. Any ideas?

[@anoraker]

Right wired in series these are essentially 48v, so the charger I linked is correct, just make sure you set it to 48v and 10a/8a. That said, I've seen a few reports that this charger occasionally arrives "bad" out of the box and will always report batteries are full when they are not. That might be the case for you, so I'd consider getting it exchanged.

[@robinearly5956]

@@anoraker Followed your instructions on how to set and it worked. Thanks so much!!

[@TheOhmarr21]

What is the cable connected to the end of the left battery for?

[@anoraker]

That's a temperature sensor for the lead acid batteries. It won't work anymore, so isn't a big deal if it doesn't get hooked up.

[@TheOhmarr21]

@@anoraker Ok thanks!

[@CalyxLlytsong]

Thanks! I did it! Key worked and everything.

[@anoraker]

That's fantastic! So glad another mower is saved!

[@kevhino260]

Does this replace/substitute the Ryobi LDC12-115 batteries?

[@anoraker]

It replaces the lead acid batteries on this specific model. Based on your battery model numbers, I think you have a zero turn, right? The process is QUITE different. I think these batteries should work for your mower... but I haven't tested it personally.

[@kevhino260]

@@anoraker yes I have a ryobi zt540e zeroturn, thanks for the heads up.

[@bmovie101]

I'm interested in to trying this. We have had our mower for at least 5 years maybe six now. We have about 1.5 acres of surface we can mow. When we first bought it we could mow both the front and back on one charge. Now with degradation it takes about 3 charges to mow everything. While a bit of a pain still workable. So we started to research buying new batteries and low an behold it will be about a grand to do so. Checking out the Litium option looks to be about the same so it will be interesting to see just how long the lithiums last over the lead acid batteries. I see many in the comments complaining about having to do this and all I can say is for me the to service my old gas mower was about $230 for the initial and and the hassle of getting the mower to the shop as well as having to by gas etc. If I do a direct comparison it has been less expensive to use the electric mower over the 5 to 6 year period than it was my gas mower and after the winter I just unplug, check the blades and go. Thank you for posting this video with all of the information!

[@ArmandSalmon]

I have had the RM480e (with 75ah batteries) since Spring 2020. Each year the amount of lawn or could cut on a single charge, got less and less. Question: Can I use the 100ah replacement batteries without any issues?

[@anoraker]

The 100ah batteries are a larger size than the 75ah batteries. I did find a Reddit thread were people managed to "upgrade" from 75 to 100ah, but from the looks of it you'll have to do some work to accommodate the size difference (remove the dividers, take out a spacer, etc.). That's thread is here: www.reddit.com/r/ryobi/comments/n6essy/rm480e_75ah_to_100ah_battery/ So it seems to be doable... but requires extra effort.

[@ArmandSalmon]

@@anoraker thank you very much for that thread link. I think if they make 75Ah versions I can just drop in without any mods, I'll prefer that route. I was happy with the original coverage when it was new... Used to ne able to cut my graded yard and easement (0.65 acres) on single charge with some left over.

[@Yankees177]

I need to do this. Worthy 12V, 50AH are on sale right now on Ebay. Think they will work?

[@anoraker]

Hrm. A lot of 50ah batteries don't have a strong enough BMS to handle the load required. So I'd recommend checking that out closer to make sure.

[@bighurt71]

Hello, just did the replacement, thanks for the info. Regarding charging- I am using same charger as you, how do you recommend charging these? Do you keep it plugged into the charger when not using? Should you charge them after each use? Or just charge when they are low? Thanks again

[@anoraker]

I charge as needed and no I don’t keep it plugged in all the time. In fact I left it unplugged all winter and it turned on fine when I got it out of storage. Lithium ion tends to last longest when kept between 60 and 80% as much as possible.

[@bighurt71]

Thanks, do you know how long it takes to charge? We mowed today and plugged in the charger and it was on the 40% bar, it has been charging for 5+ hours and the charger is only showing that is up to the 60% bar.

[@anoraker]

@@bighurt71 Hrm. Do you have the charger set to 48v and 10a/8a? The first charge WAS the longest, but since I don't usually get low, I don't have to charge all that long these days.

[@DjKamiKaze09]

So did my own swap today. I went with the Chins instead, and I did the charge swap. Although the new prongs have to be adjusted/played with, since the older ones had a stopper on the end of them. However, everything seems to be charging, except the green LED doesn't light up anymore, is that normal?

[@anoraker]

Yep, that's perfectly normal! The new charger will give you feedback on how it's doing anyway, and more info than the green light ever did really.

[@DjKamiKaze09]

@@anoraker so, yesterday and this morning the mower was running fine. However, I got a flat tire mowing this morning and ran to the store to get a plug kit for the tire, once I finished doing that fix and hopped on to turn the mower on it wouldn't turn back on. The battery was at 49% from what I could tell on the app, but it's not turning on. I attempted to see if it was the key switch and that did nothing either.

[@MrSunshine1079]

Just recently bought a house and one of these were waiting in the shed… I wondered why, days later of trying to get it to work I now know why.

[@anoraker]

It's a great mower once you get it all fixed up! Scoring it for free at least lessons the blow. Ideal situation!

[@MrSunshine1079]

@@anorakerOh absolutely!

[@cjfermin29]

Just changed the batteries, follow along with the video. I do have one question, I did not have to change the switch from turning the key to the right to turning to the left, still works perfect. However, the new battery charger you suggested only comes with two prongs, rather than 3 like the Ryobi original were should the two prongs go?

[@anoraker]

Right, so you may not have to do the key turn changeover, yeah. I should make that more clear in my description. This is something that randomly fails a lot with these mowers, and when that happens that's how to fix it. Regarding the charger... it's hard for me to answer that question because the colors change every so often with the charger I recommend. Basically you're going to make it match how it was when you first took the housing off, and the third "missing" prong will just be empty. If you haven't gone that far yet, there's an EASIER solution. Rather than rewire anything, put the housing back on your new charger that it came with. The reason it doesn't fit inside the Ryobi mower (and you would have to do the head swap) is because inside the charging port on the mower is two plastic tabs that keep the new charger from seating properly. So instead of rewiring it, you can just break those tabs off with some pliars or something and the new charger will just fit.

[@neilschmidgall1399]

I experienced what many of the commenters said: 1. The charger said "Full" after a time that was too short to fully charge the batteries. 2. The voltage measured 52 or 53 volts at the charge port but quickly went to 37 volts after turning the key and a quick flash of light on the instrument panel. 3.The charger will then start to charge again but only for a short period of time. 4. LiTime said the batteries should not be used for this application. 5. I'm in the "Where do I go from here?" stage. Any thoughts about what might get my system working?

[@anoraker]

Hi there! Lots of people have had success without having this problem, so that's odd. A few questions/suggestions? What charger settings are you using? Try 48v and 10a/8a, and let it charge for at least 12 hours that first time. Which LiTime batteries did you buy exactly (I ask because people often click my link and then 'shop around') ... it is possible you need a pre-charge circuit. But this is usually not needed with these LiTime batteries, so it'd be odd. You can see more about that here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oH-oeJuenZiXg9E Last I heard, the gentleman from that video was making and selling the circuit for $50.

[@neilschmidgall1399]

@@anoraker Thanks for replying. I did the 48 volt, 10a/8a as you suggested. I didn't want to leave them plugged in while I wasn't there so they probably only charged for 6 hours or so the first time. When I then plugged them in to begin charging again they registered "Full" fairly quickly on the charger. The mower then flashed "On" and turned off almost immediately. Ever since then they register "Full" after a brief period of time when I plug in the charger. It doesn't seem like they have ever been fully charged. I bought the batteries and charger in your links. Does the BMS play a factor in this situation? I feel like the complication of these batteries might be preventing them from charging correctly.

[@anoraker]

@@neilschmidgall1399 The first charge can be as much as 12 hours depending on how dead the batteries were when they arrived. So I would suggest giving them another six hours of charge or so, just in case. The charger is smart, and won't overcharge the batteries, though I completely understand not wanting to leave it plugged in when you aren't around. It's theoretically possible that the BMS is a factor, but these specific batteries typically don't have that issue. When you turn on the mower it charges several capacitors in each motor controller that can be well over 500 amps for a few miliseconds. This is why we have a contactor relay to handle that load. That's the loud click when turning on the mower. But in some batteries the BMS detects this as a short and shuts off. That's why with some other batteries you need a precharge circuit. A precharge resistor slows this high current draw down from a few miliseconds and spreads it out to 5 or 10 seconds thus reducing the amperage draw, bypassing the problem. But to be honest, I think you were sent bad batteries. These batteries shouldn't have an issue with the BMS in this configuration, and you shouldn't need a precharge circuit. You typically only need it when using the 50 AH batteries or the zero turn mowers.

[@MarkJada-oi9pl]

Question. How did you revive the old batteries? Did you have to unhook the batteries and charge them individually?

[@anoraker]

Yep. That's how I was familiar enough to do this install. I had already taken the batteries out once (this comes up in the video a bit). Pulled them out and trickle charged them one by one. It revived them for a short while... but they ended up dying again. At least it bought me a couple months to save for the replacement batteries I guess.

[@MarkJada-oi9pl]

@@anoraker thanks for the speedy reply. That's exactly what I'm hoping to do. Just enough time to save up for a somewhat costly repair. Thanks for the info. Very helpful video.

[@raymaas8330]

The easiest way to get to the batteries without having to pull the whole pack out is to remove the top plastic cover - not just the access panel under the seat, but the whole top cover. You can then charge them one at a time with a 12v charger. It is not necessary to disconnect them from each other, though it's always a goid idea to pull the main plug.

[@gkzn123]

I'm going to order these batteries and charger for sure. What brand and model is your robotic mower that is running in thye background of your video. Thanks for a great video

[@anoraker]

That's the Ecoflow Blade robot lawn mower. I do not recommend at all. Check out my videos about it for more info.

[@joeschmoe1039]

I am able to get AGM batteries at cost. Do you know what size I need? Or the dimensions of the old batteries?

[@A.Dostie]

If the only thing you needed to change was the batteries and they were a direct fit, why did you change the charger and why did you change the charging LED readout?

[@anoraker]

The charger that comes with the Ryobi is tuned to charge Lead Acid batteries at a different rate than Lithium batteries can handle. I haven't changed the LED readout but I plan to just to make a video about it. The reasoning is similar: the LED readout "assumes" a particular drop rate that Lead Acid is known for... but Lithium discharges at a different rate, so the built-in reader won't be accurate. That's not a big deal for me, as now the mower can take care of my entire yard on half a charge. So I didn't go out of my way to update that part right away.

[@rickflood]

Did you have trouble with that flat blue plastic connector that sits on top of the batteries? I think I broke it somehow.

[@SunSmartPower]

I have the same model Ryobi and the same thing happened to me. - so I will try the battery replacement according to the video. One question is the switch. what is the story? The verbal explanation wasn't clear to me. Anyway, can you show a diagram or something about moving the switch wires? it's a pain I know but it would be helpful. I don't use the aux position anyway.

[@anoraker]

The key switches on these mowers fail very frequently. In fact, I've seen a lot of people replace it with a push switch entirely. Mine apparently failed sometime during my battery install process (perhaps I shorted it?), so I needed to perform the operation. But it's quite possible you won't have to. It's actually VERY easy to do though. When you lift up the key switch, you'll find two wires connected to it at metal contacts. And you'll find two empty metal contacts next to them. Just move the wires over, no tools needed.

[@SunSmartPower]

@@anoraker Thanks I ordered a replacement switch just in case..

[@timrobinson607]

Thanks for the video! I’m planning to buy the batteries and charger you recommended. A video showing the monitor install would be great. My main question is how to widen the opening for the battery monitor. It seems like most of the monitors available are about 0.25” wider than the one on the mower. Maybe just a heavy duty step drill bit?

[@anoraker]

I'll be working on a video pretty soon, last of the parts are just arriving. I've seen two options ... one is a step-bit, and that's what I'm using. The other is to put a drum sander on a drill and just sand the hole larger. That sounds like a pain.

[@elviejo565]

Hi, do you still need to keep the mower plugged in with the lithium conversion?

[@anoraker]

I only plug it in when I need to charge it. I left it unplugged in a shed over the winter and it started up just fine!

[@robinearly5956]

Hi guys, I had my batteries replaced as set out in the video. It worked great once I got the charger set correctly. Charger is set to 48 volt. ,I'm having problems with charging. Finally, I got it to charge. Mowed my back yard, and then it just died. It is totally dead, no reserve or warning. It worked great for about a month or two. Any thoughts on why it is just dying. I have the same batteries and charger as in the video. My neighbor did the swap and wiring. I'm frustrated as I am not handy and there is no one in my area who works on Ryobi electric riding mowers. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

[@chaddesch4]

If you have a multimeter can you check what voltage is in the batteries by touching your leads to the two bottom connectors of the charging port in the back of the mower? If you still turn your key to “on” to power the mower on, have you tried the key ignition failure fix? Are you charging at 10/8a or 18/13a?

[@robinearly5956]

​@chaddesch4 which is it supposed to be set on. I think that might be the issue. Mine is set on 5a/5a. Should it be set on 10a/8a or 18a/13a? Thank you!!

[@chaddesch4]

@@robinearly5956 Either 10/8 or 18/13 will work, but 10/8 seems to work better.

[@chaddesch4]

@@robinearly5956 just a quick caveat - it will likely take 12+ hours to charge if the batteries have been run all the way down. So don’t be concerned if it’s running for a while.

[@robinearly5956]

Ok, I have it set on 18/13a and it seems to be charging. Thanks Chad.

[@EmberTodd]

Hi, I have a Ryobi RY48130 (the 48V Brushless 30 in. 50 Ah Battery Electric Rear Engine Riding Mower), which is the smaller version of what you have. Do you know if mine and yours are the same batteries or if the ones you linked will work in the RY48130? Of course, Ryobi gives no info on this anywhere... Thanks for your help!

[@anoraker]

Hello! No, you'll need different batteries. These should work for your mower: amzn.to/3UUQfWx (affiliate) That listing is just two batteries, and you need four batteries total. Unfortunately, the process to make the swap happen will be noticeably different than my video, there's a bunch of internal differences.

[@EmberTodd]

@@anoraker Do these batteries use the same battery charger that you linked above? Or a different one? I'll definitely buy through the affiliate link if you have one. Thanks again!

[@anoraker]

@@EmberTodd You can use the battery charger I linked above. But you'll have to do some modifications to plug it into your mower. The easiest option is to break the plastic tabs inside the charging port of your mower, as they'll prevent the linked charger from seating correctly.

[@warren.tolentino]

is the battery charger on your link is required when i change to lithium battery? or i still can use the same charger that came with the Ryobi? and i found out that not all of the battery are dead only one of the four. can i only replace the one that is a dead battery with lithium battery instead of all the four? thanks.

[@anoraker]

Don’t mix lithium and lead acid. They drain at different rates, and it’ll be bad. The Ryobi charger won’t properly charge lithium unfortunately. Again, they charge at different rates and the Ryobi is tuned for lead acid.

[@andguent]

You can definitely replace sealed lead acid with sealed lead acid. I totally agree with the content creator though, don't ever mix different chemistries. You can order individual replacements from home depot but they might take a week or two.

[@anoraker]

Oh yes, definitely. It'd be "cheaper up front" to replace the one dead batter with another sealed lead acid battery, and that'd be fine. Except that eventually you'll be back to the same problem of lead acid being a terrible choice that will eventually die. Don't mix. All one or the other.

[@peterturano2189]

On the new charger plug,is black the same as the new blue one, and white is the same as the old pink one?

[@anoraker]

I hesitate to answer that question, because it's entirely possible for colors to have shifted from one device to another. And your colors don't match up to mine. In my scenario, the old connector was black and white (and green), while the new connector was blue and pink. Black became blue, white became pink. If you're considering swapping the charger housing, make sure to take pictures of everything so you get it exactly right, and maybe check polarity with tools. Please be very careful, as getting the wiring backward could lead to catastrophic fire. Or if you want to go the potentially safest route, don't swap the connectors at all. Instead, on the mower look inside the charging port. You'll see two tabs in there that essentially block the new connector from fully seating. You could break those off with pliers and then the stock connector with the new charger should fit.

[@ramgoli7353]

i don't have a huge back yard, may be less than half an acre. can i just try to use 2 of the batteries instead of 4 ? to reduce the cost, of course.

[@anoraker]

That SHOULD work, yes. Depending on your exact model of mower. Most of them require minimum continuous 30A and a max discharge of 90A... but a couple (I think the zero turn models?) call for a higher minimum. I have about the same amount of land as you, and with the four batteries I can mow lawn about four times without needing a new charge, though it's all flat. What I'd probably recommend is getting this set: amzn.to/3z1c8uF (affiliate). You'll get the same result as buying 2 of the batteries I recommended, and you won't have to deal with figuring out how to brace it all with the extra empty space.. and it's still about half as much. Hope that helps!

[@ramgoli7353]

@@anoraker thank you!! i have an RM480ex. would that work on these batteries you suggested? anything else i should consider while charging these?

[@anoraker]

@@ramgoli7353 Yes, these should work for that mower perfectly. The same charger I linked will still work as well. For the sake of easiness and safety, I don't recommend swapping the housing heads as I recommended in the video... as the manufacturer has changed the wiring some. Instead, look inside the charging port on the mower (were you seat the charger).. you'll find two tabs in there that'll keep the new charger from sliding in properly. It's easy to break those with some pliers and then the new charger will fit perfectly.

[@stingy2022]

I have Ryobi RY48130 what batteries do you recommend?

[@anoraker]

@@stingy2022 Hello! These should work for your mower: amzn.to/3Xmu3Xb (affiliate) Make sure it's selected to the 4 pack when you add to cart. Unfortunately, the process to make the swap happen will be noticeably different than my video, there's a bunch of internal differences.

[@upload638]

I did this also, but last week I took the battery tray out, individually charged each of my lithium ion individually, put it back in and plugged in the charger just to check and POP! After that loud pop, now it is 100% dead. The main fuse on the battery (125) is good, so that didn't pop, so what did I just do lol? Oh well, it ran really well last year haha.

[@10p6]

Hi. How many hours did you have on your batteries before they failed? Mine are almost toast and only 28 hours on them. Hmmmm. And a year later, how are the lithium doing?

[@anoraker]

I'm not sure on the exact hours. A couple of seasons worth of mowing, which with my yard doesn't take long. I started noticing issues after the first season. The lithium batteries are doing great. I posted a video showing getting them out of my shed from winter, having not been plugged in at all. Started right up.

[@Mamajuana13]

Great video! I tried this with the batteries and charger you recommended and the mower won’t turn on. The battery indicator flashes and I hear a few clicks when I turn the key, but then it shuts off and has no power. Any tips or advice?

[@anoraker]

Try switching the key to the AUX position as I discussed in video. That will solve this problem like... 70% of the time. And also re-check the connections from the charging port to make sure none of that came unplugged.

[@Mamajuana13]

@@anoraker I did try the aux position but no luck. The mower lights and battery gauge briefly lit up and then it shut down. Perhaps it is a faulty ignition module?

[@anoraker]

@@Mamajuana13 It could be. If you check the lower two contacts of the charging port for voltage, do you see 48v?

[@Mamajuana13]

@@anoraker yes. The mower was able to run twice after I disconnected the wiring underneath the seat. However, it did not start again after I turned off the mower. 🤷‍♂️

[@anoraker]

@@Mamajuana13 Very strange... so the batteries aren't the issue. Starting to wonder if faulty ignition or perhaps the seat sensor didn't get connected.

[@Jonaa-fz1bf]

does this worked for the RY48111? and if swapping that casing for charging to the new one does it matter where the positive and negative go?

[@SmartGuyChill]

I swapped the batteries today. I tore the connecter off the blue wire while pushing the tray back in. Used some wire levers and a jumper to reconnect them. Lawnmower turned on and the blades spin no problem. I took the charge port out(be careful as these have thread locker on then and are screwed into a nut that is just in the plastic housing and will spin and then you can't get them out without damaging stuff) and separated the two parts and then drilled out the plastic pin so the new connector will fit. I have some hills that are at a 45% angle. Will be interesting to see if these batteries can handle the current draw with blades on up these hills. Batteries are charging now. Still need to swap out the battery gauge. Will update in the summer once I have had some time to use cutting long grass on my big hills.

[@anoraker]

Glad you managed to get up and running! I've had a lot of people ask about steep hills, and it's not something I can answer since I don't have any in my property. Looking forward to the follow up on that.

[@SmartGuyChill]

@anoraker Just cut for 2 hours and it is 54 degrees F here. Handled the hills no problem. Charged batteries over night. Just plugged it in and the charger showed charging from 40%. Might not change out the battery monitor. I have used the mower for 8 season now and hopefully I can get 5 more with these new batteries. Great mower, terrible idea to do lead acid batteries that need to be replaced every 3 years.

[@katierennie]

Thank you so much for this! Got mine about 3 years ago. Only 33 hours on it. Died dead. Changed the batteries this morning. I got worried bc it still wasn't turning on but some other connection got unplugged above the battery case. Had to pop out some more plastic coverings to put it back together. Turned right on! Only thing I'm not sure if it's an issue, i couldn't get the really long screw to go back in. Somehow the hole no longer aligns.

[@anoraker]

You'll want that for stability. If it won't aligned you probably reinstalled something reversed, I think I mentioned have the same issue.

[@Cerceify4645]

Gosh. Mine did last to 65 hrs. A friend recently bought the bigger zero turn Ryobi after her 38inch died. I have one lithium already so hope it will work as I have had it on trickle for years. My nephew was broke so I bought it.$$$$?

[@jeromeaddison9416]

Where did you get the battery from and how much.

[@anoraker]

I have all that info in the description!

[@jeromeaddison9416]

What description

[@anoraker]

Just below the video is a description (or off to the side on mobile). But here's all the links: Battery options (I used the LiTimes, but the others should work too) LiTime 4 pack : amzn.to/4ehFmW5 (affiliate) Chins (buy four): amzn.to/3yvytRr (affiliate) Mehrpower (buy four): amzn.to/4fz1a0x (affiliate) Mighty Max (buy four): amzn.to/4crDd8u (affiliate) Single Chin Battery: amzn.to/3SIy3Om (affiliate) (requires additional work to install my guide does not cover, but avoids balancing and BMS issues) Battery charger (affiliate): amzn.to/49tlmx9 Make sure to set the battery charger to 48v and 10a/8a. Battery monitor if you want one: amzn.to/41L5h36 (Affiliate) A good cart to hold the heavy batteries so mower doesn't tip: (affiliate) amzn.to/49cqQNa A decent Lithium-Ion Riding lawnmower: amzn.to/3PPZYuo (Affiliate)

[@OlderAdultCenterChorus-yt3jl]

I have a Ryobi 480e riding mower which use 75AH batteries. Can I replace them with the 100AH lithium battery you described in this video? Thanks!

[@anoraker]

Yep! The only difference between your mower and mine is the batteries that went into it.

[@Ryobi48vElectricMowers]

Yes you can but the battery spacers need to be adjusted

[@danieljermynpcfl9951]

I just finished mine and had to make a big adjustment to the battery spacers. Other that that, follow this video 1 for 1 and it'll be good as new

[@chrism5455]

Post battery change, does the original charging cable works to charge the mower?

[@danieljermynpcfl9951]

@@chrism5455 You'll need to buy the charger listed in the video description. Then, you need to take the old charger's plastic tip and fit it onto the new charger. It's 4 screws and pretty easy

[@brettshapiro6289]

Thanks for the video! You got my mower converted. Now just trying to figure out how to make the mower use the full battery capacity. Seems to die at 30% capacity. I suspect something on the controller...?

[@bp5435]

I think you’re running into the mower trying to give you enough juice to make it back to the charger. Mine shuts off the blades so I can get back to the charger. I’m trying to figure out work around for an accurate reading on the gauge.

[@andguent]

I guess I'm lucky. My RM480e 75ah ran from 2018 to 2024 on the original batteries. $20 CCA battery tester and one $180 local battery took care of things. One battery was horrible, the other three CCA ratings were 600, 700, and 900. I probably should have replaced the dying battery last year but charging the mower a few times was able to get my yard done and I'd weedwack while it was charging.

[@anoraker]

Yep, you got pretty lucky. Lots of people did not get these batteries to last that long. Average seems about two years.

[@Wingnut353]

@@anoraker They key with any lead battery is you can never go below 50% state of charge less is better, lithium on the other hand doesn't really care.

[@anoraker]

Well yeah, I discussed that in the video and why that's a problem for these mowers.

[@jefflayman2841]

Well, I switched it over, it runs but the battery charger tells me they are full, the updated monitor only show 62% at only 52ah instead of 100ah,. Any thoughts

[@anoraker]

Did you calibrate the monitor? What do you have the charger settings set to?

[@jefflayman2841]

No I haven't, I missed that completely, have to get a magnifying glass to complete that part. Charger set to 48v

[@anoraker]

Ah yeah. The monitor has to be calibrated, you do that when the batteries are full, essentially teaching it "this is 100%." Your charger is probably correct.

[@jefflayman2841]

Right, I had to find the manual online so I could actually read it, it's now set at 100% and the ah actually show up at 100 now. Thanks

[@chaddesch4]

How did you go about installing the monitor? Was there an instructional video you found to help you?

[@MrCasper1271]

Great video, I've had this mower for 2 years now in the Northeast and my batteries are still going strong at this time However there is one quite annoying thing this mower has done since day one, my back yard has quite an incline, some spots are about 15% incline, the mower slows to a crawl when going up the hill. Not sure if you have anything similar but did the weight reduction change the way the mower accelerated? It also does this odd thing where once it gets to flatter parts of the lawn even if I let off the gas some it really accelerates a lot, I'm used to it so I know what to do but it was very strange at first it's like it is still attempting to deliver the increased current But regardless I'm interested if the acceleration changes due to the reduced weight and thank you!

[@anoraker]

Alas, my yard is pretty flat with the exception of a gully for water drainage in the front. Nothing that steep. I've never experienced this behavior before or after making the change. I wouldn't say it's "faster" overall with the reduced weight, but it's faster to accelerate. Which makes sense, it's the motors that determine top speed and that hasn't changed. But with less weight, there's less to fight in getting up to that top speed. With that steep a hill... I might actually add some weight back to the mower just for the sake of traction, honestly.

[@MrCasper1271]

@@anoraker yea that makes sense, I am going to hold off until the batteries fail to do any upgrades but I def will look into this when the time inevitably comes for sure!

[@chaddesch4]

I have some hills in my yard. As my original lead acid batteries started failing, I experienced what you’re describing. I think the steepness causes the voltage to drop a bit (speculation). Eventually, my batteries got so bad that my mower would throw itself into reverse while on a hill. I suspect that there’s a voltage limiter that kicks in when you switch to reverse and that’s how the mower knows to go into reverse. So I suspect, as I was trying to climb the hills, the battery voltage dropped to below whatever that limit is and that’s why it would throw itself into reverse. If that starts happening to you, it likely means your batteries are on their way out.

[@Gnarmarmilla]

Hey brother, thank you so much. Oh that I had your intelligence earlier on…I could have saved 700 bucks and the hardship of having to swap these titans out every 3 years… Thank you very much for putting links to the lithium phosphate batteries down in your description. It amazes me how I could not find them on my own. I searched Amazon with all the keywords and nothing came up but drill, batteries and lead acid batteries for this mower, and a lithium phosphate battery that was too big. Amazon needs to fix their search engine. May God bless you, you saved me a whole lot of time and frustration.

[@danieljermynpcfl9951]

Just followed the video for my rm480e and it went great! Batteries came pre-charged. What mode do i need to use for the charger when charging it?

[@anoraker]

That's awesome! Set the mode to "10A/8A" and you should be golden!

[@danieljermynpcfl9951]

@@anoraker 48v setting I assume?

[@anoraker]

@@danieljermynpcfl9951 That's correct!

[@danieljermynpcfl9951]

@@anoraker You're the man thanks again!

[@plainfieldenergycommitteen8756]

I wonder if it is necessary to use a device (such as the LiTime 48V Battery Equalizer) to keep the batteries in the series balanced? Have you tested your setup to confirm that the batteries stay balanced?

[@anoraker]

I haven’t though I guess I should just to be able to answer this question with definite evidence. Balancing is a good idea to extend batter life. In theory the BMS built into these batteries should do that job for you without any extra work. But I do know some people don’t trust it and bought the additional equipment to balance if needed.

[@SkyFalcon777]

Did you had to add LiFEPO4 battery balancer? Same company sells one

[@anoraker]

I haven't, although to be transparent I haven't tested to see if my batteries have remained in balance. In theory the BMS in these unit should keep things in check. But I've seen some people swear balancing is necessary once a year.

[@elviejo565]

Thanks for the video! Just for my own sake, is this the conversion for the 48v 50Ah lawnmower? If so, what kind of battery life do you expect from this. Mine started giving me issues by the second season with original batteries.

[@anoraker]

There's two versions of the 50ah lawnmower, and one is just like my 100ah mower while the other is very different. So I'd need your model number to answer that correctly. As for how long on battery life, in my case with 100ah batteries, I can mow my half acre about five or six times without needing to charge.

[@elviejo565]

@@anoraker I have a RM300e

[@anoraker]

@@elviejo565 Ah, that's a very different mower. My guide won't fully help as the process to take it apart is different. The batteries I used won't fit either. But according to other people that have your mower these should: amzn.to/4dibgAS (affiliate). You'll need four of course.

[@elviejo565]

@@anoraker Thanks again! I so will same charger you recommended in the video work with those?

[@anoraker]

@@elviejo565 Yep, it will! It won't "fit" immediately. The easiest way to fix that is to look inside your mower's charging port... you'll find two plastic tabs blocking the new charger from seating properly. You can break those off with needle nose pliers or something and then the new charger will fit.

[@Dreadlord_Demondred]

How long does it take to charge and how many acres per charge can you cut?

[@anoraker]

With the settings I recommend, it takes about 12 hours to charge the batteries (from near dead, less if you any charge left of course). As for how many acres, a bunch of that depends on your yard (hills, etc.). I have a half acre of relatively flat land... and I can go four or five mows easy without having to charge the batteries.

[@kmillard81]

When you do the four battery swap do you have to occasionally balance them? I read that somewhere and I’m not sure what that means or entails.

[@anoraker]

Balancing means occasionally (once a year maybe) charging each battery individually to 100%, instead of wired in sequence. In theory the BMS that's in these batteries should prevent the need for that, but not everyone agrees that they'll actually work well enough to keep things in balance. I've never balanced mine... nor have I checked if they need balancing. Admittedly I should, just haven't had the time/inclination.

[@goingbanaynays5169]

I have 1 model older and getting to the batteries is more frustrating to get to and replace than the fact that it would not start when I went to use it! You do so much research on these things due to the cost and when something like this happens, it makes me want to "Office Space" the 🤬 thing!

[@anoraker]

I feel that. The anger I felt when I relaxed the dumb batteries that were in these things. All the review I read and not one mentioned it!

[@alohadoc1]

I have the RY48130 (50ah 30" riding mower) and the dimensions from the origional specs say they are 5.53' wide..The Li Time replacements are 6.53. Is there a spacer that I could remove to fit the Li Time 50ah batteries in the tray? Otherwise it looks like they will be too wide to fit.I am guessing you had the 75ah model?

[@anoraker]

I have the 75ah model, yes. I don't think the batteries I recommended will fit your model. I think this might fit, but doublecheck to be sure: amzn.to/40IjvkC (affiliate link).

[@alohadoc1]

Those are 5.3" wide (fits) x 7.1" high (maybe not? existing are 6.7 in high .Depth is 9.1 (existing is 8.82, but may be adjustable) so the height might be a problem at maybe 1/2' higher.

[@alohadoc1]

LiTime did not recommend their batteries for Ryobi riding mower. Not sure about ECO Worthy Meanwhile my batteries still working, I was just looking ahead. The mower is in Hawaii and I am not, till Jan. at which time I can pull them out, make better measurements..But Black friday deals will be gone, and they will not ship to Hawaii, so better to order to a mainland address and relay them. hmm

[@hammer5316]

Could you help me with the type of charger you replaced the old one with?

[@anoraker]

I linked my updated charger in the description, along with settings I recommend for LiPo batteries.

[@SunSmartPower]

Just noticed the key info you think the switch itself just wore out?

[@anoraker]

Yeah, my key switch died sometime during my battery swap (it took me awhile to get right as I was learning on the go). It may have been unrelated entirely. And just because it happened to me doesn't mean it will happen to you. Lots of people completely the battery swap without having to move the wires. But it's something to keep in mind later, as this failure happens frequently on these Ryobi mowers, even on machines still running the original batteries. I've seen people swap it out entirely for a push button.

[@SunSmartPower]

@@anoraker thanks

[@scottfullerton7839]

Thanks for the video. I see you posted it 7 months ago... any issues since? Are the batteries charging to full each time? I am deciding if I drop $2k on the batteries + charger you mentioned vs $500 on replacement batteries (the same the Ryobi use). I am in Canada, so things cost a bit more. Before I spend 4x as much to move to Lithium Ion, I wanted to see if you are happy 7 months later. Thx

[@anoraker]

It lasted the rest of the season without issue. Unfortunately, it's been non-stop rain every since it warmed up in my area. The good news is, it's finally been dry long enough that I can break it out tomorrow. I plan to film a video where I drag the mower out, then try to turn it on all on camera. But I'll let you know if it starts up!

[@anoraker]

Good news! I got it out today, and it turned on and mowed without any issue! Despite being in a storage shed without power all winter long. Very happy. Will post a follow up video soon.

[@SmartGuyChill]

I just paid $500 for the 4 Litime batteries. Ryobi batts are $300 a piece here.

[@jgilliam1955]

My Ryobi was bought in 2017. The batteries were replaced in 2022. One battery went bad, so I replaced it today. The price for four of the LiTime 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery Built-in 100A BMS is not bad at $877. I paid $239 this week for one. I will try this when these die again.

[@anoraker]

Yeah, that's an all time low on that price. When I bought these same batteries they were just over $1,000.

[@jimwoods7639]

What did you use to try and desulfate the lead acid batteries the first time?

[@jessesmolen7910]

I have watched a bunch of videos on swapping out the batteries. Yours seems like the easiest as you are using batteries that fit perfectly, so I think I will give this a go. This will be my first time attempting something like this. When do you plan on doing a video on installing the new monitor? I would like to do it all at the same time, so I know what % I am at to know when to charge it. From what i have read from your replies I should only charge at a certain %? What do you recommend? Then I leave it unplugged otherwise and during winter months. I live in Michigan so my uninsulated shed will get hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is it fine to leave the batteries in the mower over the winter? Thanks for the video! I will use your affiliate links. I also have a different model the 42" Zero Turn. From the product pages they look to use the same batteries though! I did see someone say there was another wire to connect for my model I am going to comment on his post to see what he did!

[@anoraker]

Hey thanks for watching! Yes, going with a "one to one" battery size replacement makes this SO much easier. And yes they should work for your zero turn model. I saw your comment about wiring, and attempted to answer based on what I've seen... hopefully the other commenter gets back to you too. I don't know how soon I'll get the monitor video out, it's on my todo list.. but it's been raining non-stop for what seems like months now, making it difficult. As soon as possible! As for charging: I don't actively attempt to follow this advice but, most Lithium Ion batteries will "last longer" (as in, maintain their full charge capabilities) if you regularly keep them around 60 to 80%... this is why most smartphones don't constantly charge over night, but instead "smart charge" by dropping to 80%... and then charging back up to 100% when you regularly wake up. So if you're worried about longevity, you could try to stick to that... just get to 100% on the day you plan to mow. As for me? That's basically what I do. I plug in the morning I plan to mow, then don't bother to plug in after I'm done (unless it's particularly low for some reason). I left my mower in an uninsulated shed and not plugged in over the (very cold) winter without any issues (I just posted a video showing me pulling the mower out from that shed for the very first time if you want to see). As for during the summer, I've kept it in the garage for convenience. The manufacturer recommends that the batteries shouldn't be stored at temperatures above 122 degrees F. So it depends on just how hot your shed gets in the summer. Let me know how it goes! And thanks for using the affiliate links, that helps support the channel so I can make videos like these. That and the Super Thanks option. Good luck!

[@gustavobetancourt3623]

Do you keep the mower connected at all time? If not how long will it take for the batteries to be fully charged? Tk

[@anoraker]

I don't keep them connected all the time. As far as how long... on the settings I recommend, about 8 hours. So I plug in the night before I'm going to mow. The charger I can recommend can charge up faster, but the batteries last longer if you charge them slower.

[@gustavobetancourt3623]

thanks for replying. Very helpful!

[@bagnifamily6141]

Do I need to replace all 4 batteries? These Li-Ion batteries are so expensive. Any cheaper brand alternatives out there youd recommend that would also work? Why’d you pick this brand?

[@anoraker]

Yes, you'll need to replace all four batteries... never mix battery types, that'll be really really bad. I do admit these are expensive, and you can potentially spend less. However, the ones that cost less have other issues to contend with: 1) They may not be the same exact size and shape as your current batteries, increasing the difficulty of install. 2) They may not be able to handle the current draw, meaning you'll need to spend extra money to build a pre-charge circuit and install that, negating cost savings. I chose instead to go with this brand and price to avoid those difficulties. And right now they're on sale for cheaper than when I bought them!

[@sergiof4482]

Any difference between 30ah,100ah and 250ah? Prices is the first. Whats recommended for the mowed?

[@anoraker]

Prices, sizes, and ability to withstand current load. 30ah will be too small and unable to run the mower. 250ah can run the mower, but likely won't fit quite right. 100ah will be a 1-to-1 fit and work easily, assuming you have the same mower I do (a few models use different batteries).

[@alohadoc1]

I was going to order the LiTime batteries but the company said they did not recommend them for Ryobi and that they had issues with that usage that the batteries stopped taking a charge after some 6 months? (even using the correct battery charger) ? How are your LiTime batteries performing over time?

[@anoraker]

I've had mine in for three months now without problem. I guess I'll let you know in three more months, but I've seen others use these batteries for longer than that.

[@RobertKelley-q6z]

LiTime said that their batteries stopped taking a charge after about 6 months and they could not recommend or warranty their batties for this use..hmm Meanwhile, now my batteries don't seem to be charging and I can not trouble shoot till I get back to Hawaii in about 3 weeks. It seems that by wiggling the key, it can allow the charging to start? Some kind of failsafe circuiit maybe mal functioning? Mower is approaching 2 years old.. Shipping is a bitch to Hawaii so I want to get the right product.@@anoraker

[@anoraker]

Just saw this! It’s possible the batteries are still good but the key switch went bad. I talked about rewiring the key in the video, it’s super easy. I’d start there.

[@salano2]

In the LiTime manual that came with those batteries, it says the recommended charging current is 20A, is there a reason you recommend 8A? Does this prolong the life of the battery? Could we use the 13A setting on the charger you recommended to charge it faster?

[@anoraker]

Two reasons I recommend that. You'll get a longer life out of the battery if you charge and discharge at slower rates, and as expensive as these are that's a good thing in my mind. But also, in my experience, the charger does a better job of detecting full battery at the slower rate for some reason. At the 20a setting, you'll get a full recharge in a couple hours. At the slower settings, it'll be done in a day or three (a week on the slowest setting). Since most people aren't mowing every few hours, the benefit to the higher settings isn't really worth it compared to prolonging battery life.

[@ReneColon-xk8ge]

I'm thinking of getting one of these since I'm getting tired of push mowers. It seems though that all of that work makes up for oil changes & other maintenance, on gas models,which to me,is alot less overall effort than battery changes? I would like to see others experience posted as comparison?

[@anoraker]

Personally, unless you can find one of these for sale used and cheap, I would skip all this work and get a mower that's already lithium-ion. I'd probably buy this model if I could do everything over today: amzn.to/3PPZYuo (Affiliate) (I don't really like Ryobi's newer actually lithium mowers because they use a weird joystick for a steering)

[@shumanrahman5819]

Thanks for the video. I need to convert mine soon as I can no longer complete mowing my lawn in one charge. I’m thinking of going for a 48v 50 ah instead. Any thoughts?

[@anoraker]

I haven't tried it... but as long as the dimensions are correct, I think it'd work. But you won't get the same "distance" out of the batteries. So whether you should do this depends on the size of your yard. If the mower couldn't do it all in one when you first bought it, it really won't be able to after the conversion to "smaller batteries."

[@RobertKelley-q6z]

Mine is the 50AH battery model, which I like because I am all off grid charging from my house battery pack (24V 200ah system) and the larger batteries really suck the juice out. Still researching best option to replace my batteries after less than two years, though it may not be my batteries as I can not really trouble shoot (pull the batteries out and check each one) till I get back to Hawaii where they are. I just know what my caretaker tells me, that they are not charging. Many thigs to check (charger, ingnition key faulty, charging sensor in back faulty, corroded contacts) @@anoraker

[@timgilzow1000]

This might be a stupid question but do you have to go with four 12V 100Ah or could you go with four 12V 50Ah batteries?

[@anoraker]

Not dumb. Finding 50ah batteries that fit can be tough, and many of them won't meet the load requirements to run the lawn mower. I recommend sticking with 100ah batteries, it will make life a lot easier.

[@ChrisRider]

Thanks for sharing. My Ryobi is on its third year and still working fine. I've not had any issues with the batteries yet, but think I'll replace them with the lithium batteries when the time comes. Might be a dumb question - but wondering if the reduced weight makes any difference when you are cutting? My backyard is a steep hill. My old gas riding mower used to have issues getting up the hill (it needed some repair work) - the Ryobi generally has no issue as long as the hill as very dry. Wondering if the reduced weight would be better or worse...will have to find out when I have to replace I suppose. (I'm debating about trying out a robot mower - the Luba 2 looks great).

[@anoraker]

Reduced weight is a blessing and a curse. Less weight means the batteries don't have to work as hard to drive the motors, so probably gain range for it. But yeah, there's a bit less traction without that weight. I have fairly flat ground, so I haven't had to try it on a steep hill. I'd say... try it with just the battery swap, and if can't make it add some weight to the mower. Can't speak to the Luba 2 mower, but I can tell you do not buy the Ecoflow robot lawn mower. I reviewed it (you can see in my channel), and did not like it.

[@MrCasper1271]

Hey I just left a similar comment after watching this video, @chrisrider does your bog down to going really slow when going up the steep incline? Mine does and then when it gets to the flatter parts even if I am letting off the gas some its like it is still attempting to delivery all that current to the motor and it starts to speed back up really fast

[@ChrisRider]

@@MrCasper1271 No, mine does go a little slower going up a hill but it is comparable to a gas riding mower. One of my front tires must have a leak- if I don’t fill it before using it, it gets stuck. Going to replace the tire soon.

[@MrCasper1271]

@@ChrisRider I had to replace my tire this season I had the same thing on my rear tire, had a tube put in the new one so even if the bead breaks it won't leak Yea mine slows to like almost a crawl but my back yard has some very steep spots

[@1969gorilla]

I've seen other videos where they also replaced the Ryobi gage which indicates the battery charge. Is this necessary? Does the stock gage work with these lithium batteries?

[@anoraker]

The stock gauge won't accurately track the Lithium battery, as it's designed for lead acid batteries which disperses at a different rate. It's not something that bothers me though, as I'm able to mow my entire lawn with half the charge the batteries provide... so I'll never really need to know how low I'm getting. I'll plug in before it hits zero.

[@bp5435]

@@anorakerIs there any work around if you want an accurate gauge?

[@anoraker]

@@bp5435 You can buy and install the gauge I linked. I don't have a guide for the install yet... I recently ordered one and plan to make a video, but not sure how soon that will be.

[@bp5435]

@@anoraker Thank you sir. I will keep an eye out for it if you do the install. I guess I was overthinking it and the gauge may be plug and play? I’m curious about fitment compared to original, and making sure it is installed properly.

[@anoraker]

@@bp5435 There's some work involved in wiring it up to the new batteries, but I don't know exactly what as I've found very little guidance. Apparently the instructions helps if you're handy. It is little bigger than the current guage, so you may need a step bit and a drill to get the right fit.

[@SmartGuyChill]

Got this mower in 2017 and had the batteries replaced under warranty just after 3 years at the beginning on my 4th cutting season. Bought the 75AH setup and replaced with 100AH and paid the difference since it was covered by the warranty. Now at my 7th season and I am getting maybe 20 minutes of cut time. Seems I will have to replace the batteries every 3 years and I think they are $1700 shipped. Not ready to replace it yet but will be going with an EGO this time. My father has the zero turn he got for $2600 new or something crazy. The batteries are more than that for that mower alone but it was returned to the store due to a faulty seat switch so he lucked out. Not sure if I want to risk the LifPo4 batteries or just pay the $1700 and get 3 more years for sure.

[@anoraker]

I have no regrets so far. I’m getting ready to break out the mower this weekend to see how it survived the winter unplugged and stored in my shed. Will let you know!

[@ckmbfrenchhorner]

Would the original battery monitor work with the lithium batteries or have to get the recommended one?

[@anoraker]

The original monitor won't give you accurate readings, it's essentially tuned for lead acid batteries which drops at a different rate. I've lived without since I don't need a full charge to cut my entire yard, but I'm getting ready to go ahead and install one anyway and plan to film the process. From what I can see so far... it's a lot easier to do it all at once. Installing this after the fact mans getting the battery tray back out again.

[@fpartidafpartida]

I made a comment asking if you were able to keep the little low mower robot….then I saw the quilt little think toiling away in the background 😂

[@anoraker]

Yep! I'm working on a follow up video on that one, as the app has been updated quite a bit. (Spoiler alert, one step forward...)

[@johnsoccer9v]

I replaced my Ryobi riding mower lead acid batteries with these lithium batteries and recommended charger. So far, I've noticed I'm nearly stalling out often if the blades face too much resistance. Sometimes only 5-10 minutes into a session. This was previously an issue with the lead acid when the batteries were near empty, but my charger is saying the new lithium batteries are near fully charged whenever I do charge.

[@anoraker]

If your batteries are fully charged there's no reason they wouldn't be able to keep the blades going. You could try balancing them just in case though... and I suppose there's a possibility that either the batteries or the charger is defective (what's your charger settings by the way? should be 48v and 10a/8a). Seems unlikely that you have a motor issue, as that usually presents within seconds of turning on the blades. But I'm assuming you've at least checked that the deck is clear and the blades turn freely when the mower is off (take the key out!)?

[@johnsoccer9v]

@@anoraker I've been using 5a rather than 10a on the charger. Blades seem to be freely spinning, but I may take the deck off to inspect. I did change the blades about one year ago.

[@anoraker]

@@johnsoccer9v start with using 10a and seeing if that changes things.

[@johnsoccer9v]

@@anoraker thanks, I'll give that a try

[@TheOhmarr21]

Thanks!

[@CokemanChatt]

Can you use a tesla mobile charger? it has the same fitting, looks like.

[@SunSmartPower]

I notices you listed another battery monitor, but didn't seem to install it. Do you need it? Your original monitor didn't light up so you just didn't use one??

[@anoraker]

Hi! The original battery monitor does light up, but it doesn't accurately measure battery levels (it's designed for lead acid batteries which discharge at a different rate than LiPo). With the new setup, I can mow my yard four times on a single charge... so I don't really need the monitor and didn't initially install it. That said, I've had enough people ask for directions (because it's not very obvious how to install), that I've ordered one and plan to make a video. I can already tell it doesn't come with all the wiring you need, oddly. Not sure how quickly I'll have that video up. So whether you buy and install one is kind of optional. Just know the original monitor won't give you accurate readings.

[@SunSmartPower]

@@anoraker Thanks so much all makes sense. I assume the charget tells when the B pack is fully charged. Good enough for now. There are some videos about the guage, not very good ones. I did get the guage.

[@anoraker]

Sorry, somehow your comment got stuck in spam. Yes the charger itself will tell you when the batteries are fully charged. Was always good enough for me.

[@SunSmartPower]

@@anoraker yes all worked switch and all. Thanks. Again

[@mikecarter4572]

If you going to do this swap don't use a floor jack. I built a table out of 1/4 or thicker plywood and 2x4s. Make it the same height as the bottom of the tray and the length of the tray. Be sure to use screws to make it steady.

[@anoraker]

That's a great idea. As my video demonstrated... a floor jack could lead to certain ... instability, lol.

[@damonpollard1481]

I made the switch and I'm still stuck. Everything works, lights display blades beeping you name it. Just wont move. Oh my switch works normal although i did cut it over to see if it would work on the Aux line still no go.

[@anoraker]

Was it able to move forward before you made the swap? WIll the blades stay on for five minutes in forward and reverse? If you remove the right side panel, does the wiring still look good? Need more info to diagnose, unfortunately.

[@damonpollard1481]

Thanks for the response. No it wasn't moving before the swap that's what prompted the swap. I tried moving the key wires, same result. Haven't tried leaving the blades running. I will attempt that tomorrow once I pull it out the garage.

[@aminshabazztv]

Will these work with the rm300e version?

[@anoraker]

I don't have that model. A quick look around suggests the process to replace is very different (there's no slide out tray, you remove the cover under the seat). But the batteries at least look the same... I think. Not positive.

[@aminshabazztv]

@@anoraker Thanks for replying. I really appreciate that. The 50ah models look like a closer size fit. Did you do two 100ah batteries to compensate for the for lead acid batteries, or did you do four?

[@anoraker]

@@aminshabazztv Ok, I took a much closer look and did some research. Yeah, the batteries I linked aren't going to fit, yours are much smaller. It looks like most people with your mower are using this battery: amzn.to/3EQPhBZ (affiliate). Like I said, the process for your mower is VERY different from mine. If you have Facebook, I'd look for the Ryobi Riders facebook group, a few people there have made the conversion.

[@lookatthissss]

Will the charger swap out work the same as the 480 version?

[@teevestj7512]

I saw your post have done your battery swap yet?

[@RudiSchmidt-cv5mo]

Just bought this from Bunnings in Australia and made sure that the 3 year warranty also applies to the batteries ( I have this in writing)

[@anoraker]

That's great to hear - hopefully the warranty will save you some headaches down the line.

[@bphorgan83]

What batteries did you use to replace?

[@anoraker]

Hi! They are linked in the description, along with other optionals. But here yah go: Batteries (affiliate): amzn.to/46Ld3er Battery charger: (affiliate): amzn.to/49tlmx9

[@mct8888]

I've had a device called a Power Pulse hooked up to my Ryobi since day 1. Now on third year and batteries are still performing like they did when I first got it.

[@kmillard81]

does the battery gauge still work?

[@anoraker]

Not really. It's designed to measure lead acid batteries which discharge at a different rate. My yard small enough that with the batteries I ordered I could mow it three times and still have charge left over, so it's not been a big deal for me. But I went ahead and ordered a new gauge and plan to create a guide for installing.... if it ever stops raining in my area.

[@mati74]

I don't get the key thing. What has the key to do with the batteries? Is it possible that the key lock is just broken, and that's why the mower didn't make a single beep when the old batteries were still in place? I don't actually believe they were that dead. My mower still fires up and runs some minutes on each charge. But it's pretty useless as a mower. I have ordered LiFePO4 batteries and a charger, and I hope your great video will help me to get my little yellow boy back to the green.

[@anoraker]

They key thing was more or less unfortunate timing. Somewhere between when my batteries died and when I installed the new batteries, my key switch failed. This apparently happens ALL the time with these Ryobi units (so much so that many people are replacing them with push button switches), so I included the information in case anyone else has it happen.

[@mati74]

@anoraker I see. Until now, my key has been working flawlessly all the time. But at least I know what I can expect in the near future, I guess. Thank you for your help. Much appreciated.

[@AlexKorot-zt4ur]

I have put the new batteries in and when I turn the key to on position the battery gauge light up all the way then everything dies just a second later. It happens sporadically, maybe one in 3-4 tries. The fix is to unplug and re-plug the main 50v terminal ( under the seat above the batteries) and replug it back. Then hope it works. Changing the terminals on the key didn't do anything. It looks like something is being reset when I replug the big terminal. If anyone has an idea what to try it would be greatly appreciated.

[@marcomancilla8924]

I am having the same exact issue . Were you able to find a solution ?

[@kmillard81]

Why didn’t you just do a single 48v 50ah Lipo?

[@anoraker]

Mostly for convenience. There's extra work involved in getting a single big battery to fit right and keep its tight fit. To me it was worth it to pay a bit extra to have a "1-to-1" swap process that just worked.

[@rickzw67]

Hi , great vid on the upgrade. I purchased 4 new Lifepo4 batteries in Australia (on special from Bunnings (Lowes) ) for $1100 AU and Charger on ebay for $160 AU you suggested and works like a dream. Beets the heck out of the purchase of a new ride on, and gas powered way to noisy with high maintenance. By the way I achieved 4 Years on the old batteries AGM 75 AH's not bad. Thanks for you Video which provided me confidence to attempt the upgrade.

[@anoraker]

Wow! I didn't even know you could get this mower in Australia. So glad this worked for you! It's amazing how improved this mower is after the swap just to the sheer weight drop alone.

[@anoraker]

I'm glad I could help!

[@lewickip]

Thank you so much for posting this video. I was caught be surprise when this year, the fourth season with this mower, I was unable to get more than about 10 minutes of run time on a charge. I found your video, followed your procedure, and now am back in business! I have only mowed once, but I have a challenging hill to mow, and the mower climbs the hill with no problem. It looks however, like i will need to replace the battery monitor and install one that works with LiFePo batteries. The factory monitor (gauge) will always show a full charge until the batteries are exhausted. An appropriate gauge will show the correct percent of remaining charge for lithium batteries. I'm using the AiLi Battery Monitor Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage Current Meter 8-80V 0-100A from Amazon. Thanks again!

[@anoraker]

I'm so glad I could help! You're correct, the factory gauge won't work with these batteries. My yard is small, so it wasn't a concern for me... I can mow three or four times on a single charge. I did link to one that should work in my description... and I've now ordered so I can try the install process and offer guidance. Thanks for watching!

[@gplarry]

So those lead acid batteries that come with the mower are not deep cycle? Why not?

[@anoraker]

I'm sure Ryobi would list any number of reasons that claim this was the best option. But I'm pretty sure the real answer is, "it cost us less while we charged you more."

[@alansims4344]

They are Leoch deep cycle sealed batteries and damn good ones. I have a zero turn Ryobi with a 100amp pack. After 4 years of abusive mowing out in the sticks, I would say it's still 80%. The batteries are only $160 each and totally recyclable. I may go back with LifePo but these have been good and are still going. Although Leoch says they can be pulled down to 30% without harming them, a more common number is 50% like you say and this is a weakness of lead acid chemistry. HOWEVER what is also true is that the mower only uses that top 50% and is calibrated to show depletion on the meter when the batts are actually @ 12v so not harmed at all. Also I do not agree with float charging these batteries and have never done that. I mow then charge and put the mower up and don't plug it in. I love this mower and hope to never buy another mower belt or spindle as long as I live.

[@anoraker]

@@alansims4344 I'm glad they've worked well for you! Alas, for a LOT of people with these Ryobi mowers, it's not been a good experience at all, in part because it's easy to go, "oh they promise to mow X acre, that's how much I have..." and thus you're using too much energy and damaging the batteries. There are giant Reddit threads and Facebook groups dedicated to the subject from so many people ending up with dead batteries. Still, in the right circumstance, they can be good! Glad that fits you! Because the mower itself is fantastic.

[@scottaumann7585]

@@alansims4344 hello $160 is really cheap - can you share a link - I need my 2nd one in 3 years and I was looking at $239 again - I would like $160 can you help me ????? thanks

[@kerrydavis-qk3fw]

Great video and tutorial. I loved my Ryobi and then hated it! I followed all your instructions and did the conversion. The charger worked great, 100% charge and a day later I took the mower out and did a cut that lasted for an hour and half. Cleaned the blades and when I went to start the mower back up to put it away it was dead, nothing. I hooked up the charger and it says off. I am wondering if is the ignition, I rewired it as you specified, is it the charger, is it the batteries, or the wiring? Why would it work perfectly for one cutting and then be completely dead ? I am mystified and now I hate my Ryobi again. Any and all suggestions welcome and thanks again for the help and the video. Kerry D.

[@anoraker]

What are your charger settings? Should be 48v 8a, and then a charge will take several hours.

[@kerrydavis-qk3fw]

@@anoraker Thank you fro the reply. My settings were 48v 8a and I got a full charge , according to the charger window, after several hours. Took the mower out, cut the grass. Cleaned the blades etc. and then when I went to start up the mower to return to the garage it was completely dead. I then turned on the charger and inserted into the charging port and got nothing, the charger window says off. So, after one good charge and one mowing run, it seems that the mower has no power, or charge? I can't figure it out, is it the batteries, the charger or the key? or all of the above?

[@kerrydavis-qk3fw]

I figured out the problem. Apparently when I rewired the ignition key I did not fully insert the tab into the clip and it must have shaken loose. Once I reasserted the tab I was able to start the mower. Thanks again for the help, the excellent tutorial and video.

[@anoraker]

@@kerrydavis-qk3fw awesome! So glad to hear you figured out the problem!