Replacing the shift rod bushing in an air cooled Volkswagen Bug the right way.

This is how you do it so it'll really last and have a less throw than it had when the car brand new. Somehow the video is flipped so left is right and right is left.
PS - I'm not a member of the "You just go like this and it'll be cool" club. Details matter. They make things viable - ready for a trip to Saturn and beyond. I'm not here to set speed records for engine assembly and such. The only car I drive is air cooled. No other cars.

[@denisament6718]

You are correct, replacing the bracket and bushing is best because I've seen the original bracket worn and it makes sharp edges on the bracket and it cuts through the new replacement bushing. I've seen them broken so it has to be replaced. More people need to see your video, I've been looking for someone that addressed this issue, THANKS!

[@denisament6718]

Also you didn't show welding the bracket back in and what to do about getting the heat off the bracket and not melting the new bushing, i use a water spray bottle after welding each spot weld to stop the heat, also have a wet rag under the rod and around the rod so no slag sticks to the rod. Grat video.

[@gorporpio]

You dont need to weld it on. You use one bolt to hold it up before attempting to install the shifter. The shifter is then installed with one bolt loosely then you can take the other bolt out and use it for the second bolt for the shifter. It's a little tricky but not too bad. By not welding you'll have more adjustment because the retainer isn't stationary. The one I did prior to the one in this video had so little left to right movement in neutral it would favor either 1/2 or 3/4. Adjustment wouldn't do it. I had to put a washer between the lockout plate and the tunnel (or maybe between the lockout plate and the base - can't remember) for each bolt and it was perfect. Adding the washers changed the fulcrum point .