Replacing the water pump on a Johson 30HP outboard

In this video I replace the water pump and impeller on the 1994 Johnson 30HP outboard motor.
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[@jestes7]

4 years later and this video is still a GEM! Used it multiple times. Thanks so much for sharing

[@hookempescadosaustin4111]

I just bought a Craiglist 1996 Wellcraft 160 CCF w/ 48 hp Evinrude which I'm restoring. I decided I should rebuild the water pump, and after watching your vid, it doesn't seem to be too difficult. Your common-sense approach and explanation makes it easy for most of us laypersons to understand what it will take and gives us the confidence to move forward! Thanks so much!

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome mate, good luck with the job. :)

[@hookempescadosaustin4111]

I just took it out today and the water pump worked great but we had some fuel problems. We just viewed your vid about using gravity to assist the primer bulb, which I'll be implementing tomorrow, with a new fuel line. Also, I'll be adding a clear in-line fuel filter between the bulb and fuel pump. Plz let me know about your t-shirt effort as t-shirts are standard dress here in Austin, Tx. Thanks again!

[@jdblankenship1922]

I'm glad you put these videos up! I have almost completely rebuilt a 25 seahorse that has set for 9 year from watching these videos alone. It was in really bad shape when I started but she's running like a 2019 now

[@drttlaw]

Stu..thanks for your systematic, clear manners of teaching by step by step teaching. Very helpful and informative. I feel empowered by your knowkedge! Bravo..!

[@DangarMarine]

Great to hear!

[@UnspokenWilderness]

I'm super glad you mentioned you were getting back to boat building. I was wondering about that project. :)

[@17volcanic]

Great work, your style of presentation and easy structure makes your vids enjoyable and pleasurable to watch.

[@birdhunter412011]

Stu,awhile back I messaged you concerning my Johnson outboard motor.your videos on that Johnson 30 you were working on helped greatly...and It took me while to fix as there was a lot wrong with it. I am happy to report that it runs like top. Thanks!!!

[@jerrygundrum1186]

Awesomely done. Methodical, detailed...and love the close up views. You're a pro, mate!

[@sveula6454]

Stu, another great vid, really finding the series useful, much better watching someone doing rather than reading, cheers mate 👍

[@davisdavis3406]

wanted to say thanks for a thorough lesson on changing out a water pump kit. idid it and tested it this afternoon and all was well and give you much credit. couldnt have done it without your help thankyou

[@kwacker45]

Rewatching the older videos and it's so impressive to see how you and the content has grown to what for me are must watch uploads

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate. :)

[@swimminwitdafishes8059]

Greetings from South Carolina, U.S.A. I'm an old timer and started turning wrenches a long time ago. Back then metrics were not commonly used here in the states. I know people say the metric system is easier (not for me) so a 1/4 inch by 20 T.P.I.tap is something I understand. I enjoy your videos and the easy fun way you present them ... Best of luck to you.

[@DangarMarine]

It's definitely a case of what you are used to.

[@markc4921]

swimmin' wit da fishes what part of SC? I'm in the same state

[@swimminwitdafishes8059]

Hey Mark C, I'm in Beaufort County just off of Hilton Head.

[@evandickson19]

I find the US measurements are better for construction materials like lumber, drywall, screws, etc. but metric is easier for mechanical things. From Ontario, 🇨🇦.

[@Fireship1]

As always Stu, another awesome video! This motor is coming together and looking great!

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Jack!

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

I like the how to on the thread pitch. I've been looking at getting a tap and dia set. Finished my fuel tank video. Fun project and amazing the fuel gauge works

[@DangarMarine]

They are handy little kits, that’s for sure.

[@markrobertshaw2781]

Just ordered my t shirt. Yaaaay. Thanks Stu for the instruction.

[@DangarMarine]

Cool! Be sure to send me a photo of you wearing it. :)

[@arciefan]

Water pump kits is probably the best video of all to make on different models as there are so many out there including me that need to see it done before giving it a go. Just about anyone can change a spark plug or fuel line or lower unit oil but all the different set ups (specifically the shift linkage/ or the hidden bolts under the trim tab or turning the driveshaft clockwise etc, what the best gasket sealers etc etc etc) you are providing the confidence to quite a few do it yourselfers . Thanks again Stu!!!

[@FAKE-NAME]

I agree I started watching his channel about a month ago. Since then I completely rewired my boat, pulled off an old outboard and fixed up a newer one to running conditioning and installed it(just have to patch keel then boat will be ready to go) and i have started diagnosing the older larger engine hoping I can use it once I get it going instead of the newer smaller motor( it has compression and fuel working on ignition)

[@arciefan]

Fake Name Great Story. Last boat I put in new reed valves (a credit to watching this channel) only to have the lower part of the drive shaft snap later at the pinion gear. Made the decision to get another used boat . So yes I love watching Stu's channel . Some things I will back away from like the lower unit . All the gears and bearings still intimidate me which is ok because regardless I now have a better understanding of how forward and reverse is delivered.

[@arciefan]

Btw, Stu actually has a video on when it may be time to give up on an old outboard which I had to do. I had a 1987 nissan 70hp which was a great motor for a lot of years but once the driveshaft broke and I looked everywhere trying to find one, I made that decision. Parts of any significance were already hard to find for that motor,,,eg. you could get an impeller, but you couldn't get a total water pump kit,,,, etc, etc....

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate, glad the vids are helping you. :)

[@FAKE-NAME]

Yeah I watched that episode recently, and I definitely will take outboard age Into consideration before throwing good money after bad. The older engine is 4x the size of my newer running engine otherwise I probably wouldn't bother lol

[@normanedge3819]

You r the only one that show me witch way the parts impeller goes on and turns. Thank you.

[@Adam12Designs]

Thanks for the video. This was a huge help doing my 35 Johnson

[@jaredgedye108]

Wow perfect timing! Since the last time we had talked, i just started changing the water pump on my 93 johnson 30 hp. Ive been piecing together videos from all other sources online. This means ive been kind of "wingin it." Im so glad you did this video. Thank you Stu!

[@jaredgedye108]

One question though. Do i really need to have the drive shaft spacer? I noticed when i took of the lower unit that the drive shaft spacer had warped and melted from the over heating. I had to cut it off in order to fix the water pump.

[@DangarMarine]

Very good question. I don't really know the answer (others may) but most outboards don't have it so I'm not really sure that it does. If yours was running with the spacer so badly damaged then it can't be critical.

[@marinediesel]

Bin the spacer it is to stop water travelling up the shaft. Just put grease or anti seize on the shaft spline

[@fifocrew3040]

Hey Stu Thanks for this video. I have been subscribed since about 6 months before Renko come along. This video really helped me out today as I couldn't workout where the gear selector was joined. Cheers.

[@bharrounn8742]

Hello Great videos. I followed your procedure. And I, like you, had to flip the impeller. I wondered which way it went in. I watched your video closely and put it in upside down as you did. Then towards the end when you were adding the keyway, I saw the it was corrected. Just thought I'd point that out. Great videos

[@tonywalker5402]

Thanks mate. Another very clear, concise and humorous video

[@cornflake73]

great video. It is always good to see the actual repair versus the written instruction.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate. The instructions that came with this kit were pretty good but I did notice that the bit about putting that o-ring I missed was the final sentence of a long paragraph so they do need to be read carefully. Something I never do!

[@donaldkiernan2606]

Thanks I replaced mine after watching your video, very well done!

[@rikkwakeupwesternworld9874]

Another well made video Stu keep up the good work. I like the old Landrover in the background

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate. The motor went back into that Land Rover last week after being off at the engineer's for a rebuild. Looking forward to firing it up!

[@peterjensen6844]

Just finished replacing the water pump on my 1973 50hp Johnson. Was certain it was going to explode when I got it all back together but it didn't! Worked great

[@DangarMarine]

Nice work Peter! :)

[@MrHanowski]

Excellent video and presentation. Thanks. One general comment about some shift linkages to emphasize. When I tried removing my lower unit, it wouldn't come out until I completely removed the shift linkage bolt. This was on a Johnson 15hp. I assumed the shift rod was simply "clamped", but it is also mechanical held in place by the bolt which engages a tapered portion of the shift rod which isn't visible until disassembled.

[@john7017]

Another Great Video! Thanks for sharing.

[@luke0b708]

Thank you so much man! worked like a charm and this video made it easy.

[@mr.fatbasstard648]

Thought I was on the wrong video for a few minutes in the beginning there :-). Dropped my phone in the water (second time it's happened now lol) just after the video where you cleaned up that lower unit. Good to be back and catching up on your videos.

[@DangarMarine]

I should have done it like a black and white flashback. ;) Sorry to hear about your phone!

[@borebelllifting5629]

"It's showing its age, this poor old outboard..... but then again, aren't we all" -I felt that

[@2CabrasLocas]

Great concise instruction. Thanks!

[@dnixon1974dn]

Great vid Stu..

[@LukeRT]

Great video as usual thanks for the informative video

[@mikewebster6977]

Just wanted to say thank you, I changed my water pump on my 25hp Evenrude (got the same kit from Marine Engine . com) and I could never get any water out the "tell Tail", after going through the procedure 3 time I checked your old videos and you mentioned priming and none priming pumps. I took off the water ears and put the motor in a barrel of water and everything worked great. Thanks Again

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome. :)

[@touretteguy69]

@@DangarMarine water ears??

[@voiceforthevoicelesstruth5480]

Make sure when you put the lower unit back on that the shift rod on the lower unit is sccrew all the way into the lower unit before you connect it back the the rod on the motor. If you don’t your linkage will be off and it won’t shift into forward gear. Learned this the hard way

[@philtrumble]

I have a 20 horse Johnson 1989 your videos have come in very helpful I just got my parts today

[@DangarMarine]

Glad the vids have helped. Good luck with the job Marcus!

[@arciefan]

Nice video Stu!!!

[@jacklowe3788]

Thanks for the video Mate!

[@user-le8xh7qh8q]

Bro step by step thank you your vids are helping alot

[@Scotty3ist]

Great video mate. Planning to do this same procedure on my Evinrude 15hp. -Jack

[@DangarMarine]

Good luck with the job Jack. :)

[@stevespeissegger1369]

Jack, I've got some spare 15 hp Johnson stuff if you need it. I don't need it anymore so I'd be happy to let you have it, free of charge.

[@MEGA_SOKO]

Thanks for this, rebuilding a water pump on an old Johnson 25, same kit and shaft setup.

[@markolav7017]

Hope the new owner is enjoying this quality rebuild :)

[@SWhite-hp5xq]

You’re awesome mate..cheers for this

[@oddisaksen]

Thank you for this, and all the other, very educational videos. They have helped me a lot. I found in my outboard shop manual for Johnson/Evinrude that the torque on the six bolts on the pump house should be 60 - 80 lb/in or 6.8 - 9.5 Nm. I have an Evinrude Elan 1996 35 hp, 3 cyl. two stroke outboard. I have learned during my time as an technical engineer that it is not necessary to use packing cement in addition to a gasket. The shop manual tells me to use OMC Gasket Sealing Compound, and I can´t see why. Maybe it´s for keeping the gaskets in place while assembling. When I dismantled the waterpump system, there was no sign of that compound. I hope my english language is ok.

[@lochlanurquhart9708]

Your a Legend mate! Another very helpful video.

[@dannyboy7086]

Hi from Canada, thank you so much for making this video. it sure helped me out

[@DangarMarine]

Glad it helped!

[@dannyboy7086]

well it almost worked. when I tried to put it back i think the splines aren't lining up. mine is 86 30hp

[@gigmaster31527]

Helped me a great deal. Thanks!

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome, glad the vid helped. :)

[@magosteamj1243]

NICE !! VERY CLEAN VIDEO TANKS . MINE 88 HP

[@acsmanny70]

Well done mate like always. Be Safe great Day.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Manny!

[@yuhaz]

Great vid, thx!

[@jakeeaston-jukes5839]

Thanks champion that’s sooo helpful

[@adrienjoinette8913]

Always interesting and I like how you make do with what you have , I realize that sometimes you have to use a factory made tool but sometimes improvising can work just as well, no fn around with you , do what it takes to get the job done right : )

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Adrien!

[@ronpowell2373]

Arn would call him a wimp and not sign off his apprenticeship if Stu did every job 'by the book'.

[@James-eq8fs]

Nice video again gearcase turned out nice from where you started. That salt water sure makes a mess of things. I just did the same water pump at the marine dealership I work at in Michigan, USA a few weeks ago, and the torque Johnson and Evinrude list for those water pump bolts in the service manual is 60 to 84 inch pounds. I do not know what that converts to in Newton Meters. That's a very common torque spec for Johnson and Evinrude outboards when I comes to the 1/4 inch X 20 T.P.I fasteners. I have never used Adhesive M Evinrude calls for on their water pumps either usually I will use bellows adhesive which works good. The main thing is to secure the O-ring in the proper location during assembly. The reason I will use Mercury bellows adhesive is it's handy because half of the stuff I do is sterndrive and I have lots of MerCruisers kicking around. Thanks again for the great video.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks James, appreciate you passing on the torque specs. :)

[@pinkrockshard]

Very helpful! Thank you. I'm about to change out an impeller on a 78 johnson 35hp for the first time. This is the first outboard I have worked on beyond changing spark plugs. I opened the box of replacement parts and was sure the impeller was the wrong size! Thanks for showing how it all works together. I am a little concerned about getting the gasket sealant right. Hoping a quick look around the auto parts store will sort me out. Thanks again!

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome Neal, auto parts stores will have everything you need.

[@jeffreiser8140]

After pump rebuild, your suggestion in another video, to test operation, don’t use earmuffs! My 25 horse was not self prime you need full immersion of the shaft.Mine would not pee out the hole otherwise.

[@chrisking7255]

The sealant Jonson / BRP are referring to is 3M's 847 compound! Well at least nowadays it's what BRP recommends . It's a quick drying "sticky right away" sealant, very effective to hold rubber seals and o-rings to any surfaces but can quickly become a mess if you apply a slight bit too much of it lol. Sealant must resist to vibrations/water/petrol residues/big and fast temperature changes and must not disintegrate. That's why I suggest you install the housing "cup" twisting in the impeller first, then slide the housing on top afterwards, since twisting while applying pressure on the housing seal vs lower plate might overspill the sealant onto the plate which will create a friction later on between the impeller and the spilled sealant on the plate, premature failure. Just saying

[@anselmmclorren5320]

in advance Thank you your videos have helped me greatly.

[@mikewalsh6684]

Thanks for the great video and helpful instructions. Unfortunately, I have run into a problem with the reinsertion of the drive shaft into the gearbox. It feels as if there is resistance from some kind of liquid in. The gear shaft only goes in about 1/3 of the way. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks

[@frydaddy1984]

Love watching your videos, saves me a ton of money. I am working on a 1987 johnson 30 and I have 2 square nuts (similar to a motorcycle battery terminal nut) that have fallen out. I don't know where they go. I'm hoping you might know. Thanks for any help!

[@ReubenHorner]

Mate, what could have just appeared in the sub box? Dangar!

[@deskcorner]

Thank you for the great tutorial video yet again , just wondering if you made tutorial video on how to adjust gear shift on Johnson outboard motor .

[@DangarMarine]

Not really, only one on adjusting the shift rod length kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5fcZ4pveq5kmck

[@bobbell5928]

Just to let you know. I found myself unsubscribed from your channel. I did not do it. I enjoy all of your videos and learn a lot. Thank you for all your hard work.

[@DangarMarine]

Thank Bob. :)

[@Hengelguides]

Hi Stu. Firstly, just want to say on behalf of all amateur and wannabe boat mechanics. THANKS. You vids are informative but above all, practical. I cleaned and tuned my carbs after your video. Now. Will this video apply to my 70hp Johnston. I think it's an early 80s model. Again. Much thanks.

[@vetterfellow]

Splendid how to video Stu; Once in a while I like to ask how Eddie is doing. I'm hopping well. Thanks fer another swell video.

[@DangarMarine]

Eddie is in the wars at the moment too. Dave has had to spend almost $1000 on vet bills after he got a bad oyster cut on his paw. :(

[@johnluliak]

I watched your video before and started to rebuild mine and wound up with a spare O ring. I'll be danged if I did the same thing you did, then I had to take it all apart and put it under the stainless steel impeller cup. LOL The instructions did not emphasize that step. Really great on the rest however. You did it better in your video. LOL

[@darrylb4048]

GOT A QUESTION. With the painting of the leg and having to tap the bolt holes due to paint overspray. Why dont you just insert some bolts flush to the holes. Even if you have to make your own flush bolts. Just an idea. great vid.

[@marinofordonigislavedab]

😀great presentation

[@kylefriis5007]

Thanks for the video! When I just recently replaced my water pump on my 81 johnson 35hp I have been struggling with the shift rod and getting it to get the boat to go into forward. I have dropped the lower unit multiple times and put it back together sometimes it will go into forward on the first time and then no longer after that. Reverse is working great! Any advice? Thanks!

[@miket6030]

Thank you so much!!!

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome!

[@eddymartinez1574]

Hello friend On my 1990 Johnson 110 hp won’t go on reverse by the shifter but if you do it manually it will please help.

[@beargibson3100]

I've put many of those in our old 25 evinrude.

[@262Fishing]

Hopefully you still see this from an older video, and I apologize for the long comment: I have the same motor on my boat as in this video. I launched my boat, started it up with no issue, and let it idle to warm up while I scurried around the boat getting a few other things ready. In my movement, I buried the prop in the sand without realizing it. As I advanced the throttle forward, I heard a "thunk" and the motor died. Realizing what happened, I cleared the prop from the sand and turned the key... nothing happened. Didn't try to crank or anything, might as well have unhooked it from the battery. The ignition is the only thing I have connected to that battery, and everything else was still working fine. Brought my boat home and looked it over. All fuses I could fine appear to be in good shape. All wiring as far as I can tell is still connected (there are a few wires that were obviously cut and I don't think they were in use since I've had the boat). The throttle still moves and the lever on the motor reacts accordingly. When the boat is in neutral, the propeller will still rotate. When it's in gear, the prop still catches when I try to rotate it. I opened the casing on the throttle and as far as I can tell everything looks fine in there, too. A buddy of mine thought maybe something bent in the lower from the jolt, and it won't get out of gear, resulting in it not cranking. I know these motors are relatively simple, but I'm not desperate enough yet to test my luck taking off the lower myself. So with that, I'm out of ideas and looking for help. Really don't want to have to take it in to spend a lot of money, and I'm worried it will cost more than the boat is worth. Thanks in advance. Maybe this will be the kick in the pants I need to get out on the kayak more.

[@DangarMarine]

It could be a few things. There is a neutral safety switch that will prevent it from cranking in gear, there could be an issue there. This is a very old video and therefore probably very badly filmed, but it might help with your problem. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2LLXpWipqmgarc

[@peterborg9052]

Thanks for your great videos! I have a 1989 Johnson 40hp in decent shape that needs lower end seals and impeller. Do you cover that one? Thanks

[@charlesprovau8126]

Hey could you do a video on replacing water deflectors?

[@zedcartwright5267]

Painting bottom end put dab of grease at top of each bolt thread will prevent paint from sticking or thread a bolt in a few turns to prevent paint from getting in hole.

[@johngeisiii8090]

Love your videos. Just inherited a 87 Johnson outboard. When installing a new zinc after the lower is painted, does the paint have to be removed under the zinc? Concerned about the zinc doing what it needs to do vs exposing raw aluminum to salt water

[@DangarMarine]

It just needs to be electrically bonded to the outboard which often the bolt will do.

[@markc4921]

Enjoyed the video Stu! Very informative and easy to understand. How often should you change your water pump? Thanks

[@DangarMarine]

I would change it about every 100 hours of running.

[@wolvenar]

Hope you leave the old vids up as well. I believe that is why / when I found your channel.

[@DangarMarine]

It's interesting to hear you say that as I was thinking of getting rid of them. My worry is that people find them first and think they all have the same audio / editing quality.

[@wolvenar]

Dangar Marine Maybe make note of the age and quality in the descriptions? Lot of good info and uniqueness to them.

[@danielhaglund244]

Great video! Very helpful. At 7:35 you say to rotate the impeller CCW. How important is that? I always thought that would self correct, whichever way you put it in. But after toasting a new impeller (on a Johnson 30) that I most likely rotated the wrong way I'm not so sure anymore.

[@Jerome-tm2vh]

Hey stu first I’d like to thank you for the information about how far to turn the trim tilt anode, my Yamaha 30 can virtually take off without me holding the tiller at all (except to accelerate of course) but that’s something I’d like to ask would it be worth my time and money to install a helm and steering wheel what are the advantages and what needs to be taken into account if I do decide to? Edit: forgot to mention great vids can’t wait for the next boat build vid though. 👍

[@DangarMarine]

I think helm over tiller really is a case of personal preference. Some people find the helm more comfortable and it is a good way to get more weight up the front of the boat if that helps it ride better. Tillers are great for getting fast lock-to-lock movement when docking and don't require the same level of maintenance.

[@jonathanburce4444]

I have a 1993 evinrude 140cxetf counter rotation which way does the water pump impeller should be installed ?

[@donaldsmithdonald7906]

Or do you know were I can get one I've looked on e-bay and there is none.

[@Brandon-fe8cj]

this might sound dumb but i was running my boat at night and noticed my pump went out/got melted from overheating replaced it but lost my driveshaft spacer and cant find a new one. would i need it to run my motor? or do i really need that spacer.

[@sno_crash]

great vid. I think the stumpy end of the impeller key needs to point in the direction of the impeller travel. To achieve that the impeller is removed - flipped and reinserted (while rotating anticlockwise). I'm going off memory, and could be wrong. I really don't think it'll make much diff, and to fix it would be a huge pain in the _ss now that it is assembled :)

[@DangarMarine]

From memory it is pretty hard to get it in the wrong way as the impeller has a wedge shaped hole for it to go in. If the wedge is around the wrong way the it wont fit under the impeller. It's a good point though that I should have mentioned. I'll take a look next time.

[@JB-in4zn]

ive got a mid 80s 28hp spl johnson(model info is worn off), theres no shift linkage disconnect in the lower end. lower end also comes apart in 2 spots. one just below the exaust, and second about 10 inches lower, almost like a spacer piece. Ever seen this and know how to disconnect linkage? think it might be in the engine compartment, behind and below carb.

[@gorewhore1000]

Where can I find the model number for my gear case/ lower unit

[@sgttc15]

So I have just received my first boat. It is a 1976 Manatee with a 70HP Johnson. I was told the fuel pump was bad but haven't had a chance to go through it all. I knew it was a project when I got it. Should I go ahead and redo the water pump and impeller as a precaution? It has been sitting for about 18 months.

[@vetterfellow]

I'm seeing Eddie in your next video and he looks well.

[@DangarMarine]

That was filmed before his accident, but he's okay now.

[@jopaul93]

i have a question its not about this video but i have a 1985 40hp johnson with vro that has been bypassed i want the motor to be in tip top shape and as of now runs a bit chopy and very smokey do you think overhauling the vro pump and reconecting it would help these issues ?

[@billbillman8489]

Hello, Thank You for all the videos !! My question is: Do you have to remove the carburetors to access the shift linkage to change the impeller on a 1990 Johnson GT150 J150STLESB? Thank You!!

[@ProhibidoPescar]

Hi, good videos! I have a minimal oil lost by the hole that is located next to the oil level screw. Do you know if it's gear oil? or if it is for something else related to a stamp? thank you very much, greetings

[@DangarMarine]

It is most likely just two stroke oil coming out through the exhaust. If there isn't any water in the gearbox oil I wouldn't be too worried.

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Looks like I get to make a video on changing the impeller on my Yamaha 4hp 4 stroke tomorrow. No pee at all so took it apart. Looked like it exploded inside the housing. Rubber chunks everywhere even down in the water pickup vent holes. Inside of the housing was chewed up so replacing both.

[@DangarMarine]

Good luck with it Tim! Be careful to make sure none of the bits of impeller are stuck in the cooling system blocking it up.

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Yes did that. Found bits down in the vent holes and ran a small wire up the tube to the motor. Then blew everything out. Test ran it and used today fishing. Ran great

[@tnekkc]

I replaced the water pump in my 25 hp 2005 Johnson in 2009. In 2012, I sold the boat and motor for $2000. Now I own a canoe.

[@kierank9522]

Ok...

[@sergiomoran8851]

I have a Johnson 35hp, to remove the lower unit, the shift rod extending up through the the exhaust housing, is there a disconnection that needs to be made under the carburetor or can the unit just slide off by only removing all the bolts as seen on this video?

[@patwoodburn3864]

I have a 1998 4 stroke 9.9 johnson outboard. It squares water out the small hose but doesn't have any water coming out the exhaust of the prop . Tested thermostat in a pot of water it opens ... what do you think is wrong ?????

[@owenaquilina5001]

Dear what is the purpose of the keeper underneath the linkage gearbox joint. I lost the nylon tapered keeper can I replace it with a small O ring please so the linkage nut will not slip off? Thanks in advance, very informative video

[@tortillamilk]

Good video, Stu. Thanks! I wish you would have shown putting the lower leg back on as that's where I'm having trouble. I'm getting an old motor back to service and checked out the impeller and replaced the leg oil. When I put it back on I don't get water pumping out of the head - it just comes out the prop. So, the water tube is not getting into the grommet at the top of the pump. I've tried a half dozen times and same thing. By the time the leg is up on the shaft I can't see the tube and grommet alignment. Any advice?

[@DangarMarine]

Yes, this can be a tricky problem. As you say, you lose sight of it before it goes it. If this happens I normally check that the pipe coming down it's bend and try to get it as close to straight and in position as possible and then put a bit of rubber grease on it to help it slide into the rubber grommet. Sometimes depending on the outboard I can squeeze that thin pick in to help guide it but that isn't always possible.

[@inflationistransitory]

i got up to the last step, but can't get the bottom half to fully fit inside the top half.. im guessing splines arent lining up but no matter how much i wiggle it and rotate the prop the middle bolts wont meet up.. any ideas?

[@daveking4246]

I got a 20hp evenruid from the mid 80's same set up as this ...I'm noticing the oil seal under the water pump needs replacing...is it just like doing it on the prop end like in one of your other videos? And do they have a specic name for that seal so I can look up part online to order...your bids are awesome thanks man, super helpfull

[@DangarMarine]

It's the drive shaft seal kzbin.info/www/bejne/oIW3aISHqL2Ho6M