Replacing Valves On An Allis Chalmers D17

Repairing a 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 and doing some work with it.

[@proudhawk1]

The best Tractor Allis ever made

[@michaellynskey7124]

The AC looks absolutely marvellous somewhat jealous that in England we don’t have the amount of ac or international available to us, unless you bring them in from different auctions in the states, Which is a bit of a gamble without viewing the equipment before buying 🇬🇧🇮🇪.

[@Jason1Pa]

She was definitely tired.. Great video of your work. Have fun with it.

[@glennhitchcock9094]

Great video, especially of the close up detail of valve lapping. Question - how did you get the head so clean? I've got the head off a WC right now and can't figure out how you got yours so clean. Thanks.

[@Randys_Relics]

Thank you! Scraping with a razor blade and a wire wheel. I'm sure there are better ways to do it but that's how I did this one. It takes a bit of patience to get it down to the clean iron.

[@p5makersplace]

Randy : working on a d14. just did a compression test, ugg. #3 was way low. Leak down test . Felt air gushing out of the valve train of #3, so while the rest of the front of the tractor is torn down figure i should go ahead and repeat what you just did in this vid. Question : did you find it unneccessary to replace the valve guides? I have never done a valve job, so it's sponge time for me to learn what's what.

[@Randys_Relics]

On this tractor the only reason for replacement was premature failure due to water getting in. The valve guides were plenty tight. You can check how much "wiggle" the valve has in the guide. There are some pretty good write-ups online and I'm sure there's videos on KZbin. There's no reason to replace them if they are not worn.

[@ryanstraw6759]

any tips on how to time the distrubutor? i have this exact tractor, did the points, plugs, carb but just wont stay running.

[@Randys_Relics]

It's pretty simple, bring the number one piston to top dead center on its compression stroke. You'll be able to see the mark through the timing hole in the side of the bellhousing. Once it's at top dead center take your distributor and set the rotor to the number one spark plug position. Then reinstall the distributor making sure it stays in the correct position. At that point put your spark plug wires on the distributor in the correct order going clockwise. (Number one cylinder is closest to the radiator) You should now have basic timing and your tractor should run. I usually set them with a timing light afterwards. Hook the timing light up to the number one cylinder and with the engine at full throttle adjust the distributor until the fire mark is in the center of the timing hole in the bellhousing.

[@ryanstraw6759]

@@Randys_Relics Ok thank you. I will look for that and try that out.

[@ryanstraw6759]

so I looked last night for this timing hole, looks like the loader is covering the hole so I wont be able to see in it. Any other way to get it close enough?

[@Randys_Relics]

@@ryanstraw6759 You may not be able to time it with a light in that case but you can still set the number one cylinder to top dead center. Stick a small piece of doll rod or something in the spark plug hole when it's coming up in the compression stroke. You'll be able to judge if it's on top dead center by how the rod moves. They'll be a point where you can move the crank pulley just slightly and the rod will not move. At that point you can install your distributor at the number one position. From there once it is running you can adjust the distributor by ear. You want a smooth high idle sound with the engine at at least 3/4 throttle. If it is laboring or misfiring at all you will want to adjust it until that is gone. If the timing is late it will sound labored and if the timing is too early it will begin to break up and misfire. You want a happy middle ground sound.

[@ericvogel1126]

Why the narrow view. So annoying!