RESTORATION OF A 1959 UNIVERSAL GENEVE POLEROUTER MICROTOR- Caliber 215 service

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Lubrication used:
Balance and Train wheel jewels - Moebiu 9010/10
Pallet stones - Moebius 941/2
Other gears and mainspring - Moebius 8200
This will be my sixth restoration video. If you have not yet watched my first restoration video on a Seamaster 60, please click the link here:
• RESTORATION OF A 1969 ...
my second restoration video on a 1952 Seamaster, please click on this link:
• RESTORATION OF A 1952 ...
my third restoration video on a 1968 Rolex Air-King, please click on this link: • RESTORATION OF A ROLEX...
my forth restoration video on 1950's LeCoultre Triple calendar:
• RESTORATION OF A LeCou...
and my fifth restoration video on a 1940's Mido Multifort Bumper automatic:
• 1940's MIDO Multifort ...
In this video, I will be restoring a vintage 1959 Universal Geneve Polerouter Date Microtor Automatic watch.
Hope you guys will enjoy this video as it took me a long time to complete. Support the channel by hitting on that thumbs up button below the video. Don't forget to subscribe and hit on that notification bell so you will be notified whenever I upload a new video for you guys.
Comment below if you enjoy this video and would like me to produce more in the future.
#Restoration
#WatchRestoration
#1959

[@Keeperofthekey13]

Now I understand why Universal Geneve are so sought after. Its a beautiful & unique movement design. Thanks for sharing.

[@robpriest9031]

Expert at work. As a collector I learn something new every video. Thank You.

[@dominickcolasanto6582]

Superb condition and skilled service. Looks like a first class high quality movement. Attractive watch

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Many thanks!

[@PMS1950]

A beautiful watch. I remember seeing and drooling over an ultra thin, automatic Universal Geneve displayed in the window of a Brighton jewellers in the late 1960s. I was in my late teens and the assistant in the shop grudgingly allowed me to look at and briefly handle this treasure. I've never forgotten the pleasure of gazing at such an unattainable (then) object and promising myself that one day I'd own a wristwatch of similar quality and calibre. Sadly, to date I've not been able to discover the actual model of this watch. It could have been called the 'Silver shadow' or something along those lines. I'm still searching!

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Thank you for sharing. Wish there is a time machine to allow us to visit the past. There is this website which will allow you to search through all of the Polerouter models. Check it out at your convenience and hopefully you can locate your watch here: universalgenevepolerouter.com/galleries/

[@mirrazaali6298]

Beautiful piece

[@JohnValencia70]

What a beautiful dial

[@billh2726]

Great Video Maestro!

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Many thanks!

[@skygrey7237]

Great watch.

[@markbyrum4743]

Nice job. Love those micro rotors. Don't understand why they are not used so much today. Good vid. Keep at it!

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

I think it could be that the Microtor required frequent lubrication to wind smoothly. With the regular rotor weight it will still work nicely with dried lubrication for a long time. But of course, it is recommended that you should only wear a watch with proper lubrication.

[@hectormonclova7563]

Beautiful watch, beautiful job!!! It loooks very much like the original Omega Seamaster... ❤️

[@coffeeisgood102]

Nice job.

[@gordonmarsh5008]

Always a treat to view the Omega Enthusiast at work :-)

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Many Many thanks!

[@alvinwatchiadorvlog2587]

Full watch brother thank you for sharing

[@bintangsena2249]

i tried your approach of not removing the balance wheel and pallet fork. it worked wonderfully for me :)

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

You can leave the balance wheel and pallet on while cleaning. But it is good to take them out before cleaning to see and remove any tiny hair, dirt or debris clinging on them.

[@bintangsena2249]

​@@TimelessHistoryChannel yess. i just did exactly that yesterday. thank you so much !

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

@@bintangsena2249 Perfect! You're very welcome. What I show in my video is what majority of watchmakers do behind the camera. It is safe and provide the same result. Why you do not hear any actual long time watchmakers complain about my videos. :-)

[@gang208]

For the same reason on a simpler movement, can one leave the train wheel bridge and its wheels on while cleaning too? This will save more time and risk for me as an amateur.

[@wendyglasgow6394]

Lovely restoration and as usual informative narrative. Very enjoyable. Thank you.

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Happy to hear that. :D

[@TheDunadan01]

Nice work. I would like to see a before/after Timegrapher performance check to see how much of an improvement you've made in the timekeeping.

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Thank you! Sorry that I did not provide the timegrapher reading of the watch. The watch was not working to begin with, so there would be no reading to show. I left a comment to someone else who also asked the same question. I provided the result reading of the watch. Another thing I would like to point out is the video is mainly for my website clients to watch how I would restore their watches. They know how excellent my job is. The other thing is, assuming the watch was working to begin with, the person who is making the video can do a slight adjustment to make the reading of the watch to be off. After the service he can just correct it back. Therefore, the timegrapher result is really just for show when it comes to a video restoration.

[@Jackkyloi2110]

Great video, thanks

[@jadedarby7290]

What a fantastic job, beautiful watch great for anyones collection.... Dr. it was a pleasure watching you once again work you magic on a long lost UG watch. Please keep doing the video's, I know there is a big time commitment in doing these. I have learn so much from you personally and have a passion for the vintage watch world because of you!!!! Have a fabulous week!! jade d

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Thank you so kindly! It is comment like this that strive me to work harder. They are very motivational!

[@jadedarby7290]

@@TimelessHistoryChannel I appreciate it and others do all so...

[@HaiNguyen-ck8jv]

Great work done. Very interesting. Thank you!

[@kswaminathan5439]

Fantastic video.Enjoyed every moment of it.

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

New restoration going live in a few hours. Stay tuned!

[@iperrealista]

good job

[@urbeke]

Thanks a lot. So relaxing to watch a complete craftsman. I got two omgs from 50s and 60s. One has secondhand come lose. I have been told it can not bee refitted. Is this true ❓Best Regards from Mr U in Sweden 🇸🇪🌹🇸🇪🌹🇸🇪

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

second hand come loose is a simple fix. :-)

[@ThomasTucker11]

Fascinating and instructive, well done!

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Many thanks!

[@MrBeard-et1yi]

Beautiful piece. Great video

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Glad you like it!

[@solstar4778]

Handsome wristwatch 👍♥️

[@LCMNUNES1962]

ÓTIMO TRABALHO PROFISSIONAL, BRASIL OK 👍

[@arthurlevine1485]

Very nice work! Would like to send you pics of an Omega that belonged to my father. I remember him wearing it when I was a child and I'll be 60 yrs old this year. I recently had it serviced for the first time in decades (since his passing) and the watchmaker was fascinated by it because he tried to find the history of this model, but wasn't able. Do you accept pictures to look at and perhaps you know the history? I also have pics from the watchmaker of ID marks and numbers on the inside. If so, where could I email you? Would love to know some history on this watch as it was the one piece of jewelry my father wore. Thanks much!

[@knobexploitmusicelectronic9218]

Nice movement!

[@garyboyle695]

Videos are a joy to watch, so relaxing and what a stunning looking little movement. Are modern watches as well made as older ones? Me feeling is no as so many modern ones show so much wear and year after 5 or 10 years.

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Thank you! Honestly, I would say it depends on the brand and how regularly the watch is serviced. You can own a watch with the best movement out there, but never serviced the movement. The movement will be in poor condition overtime. Let's just say there are quality vintage and quality modern movements and vice versa.

[@johnutting9615]

Very nice job ,thanks for putting it up. What accuracy did it achieve ?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

You're welcome. I do not recall it now, but I usually regulate my watches to keep within 3-5 second off per day. But for a vintage watch of this age, anything within 10 sec off is very good.

[@DongHoDocLa]

nice channel

[@duvidtv9544]

great videos thank you very much!

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

You’re very welcome.

[@theo5413]

Jeeeeeees

[@chime137]

Also, have you heard of a repair person named Blake Scott out of Texas?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

I do not sorry. From Canada. :-)

[@rbruce63]

How do you address the oscillating weight spindle wear if this part is no longer available?

[@rbruce63]

Mine looks like that one, albeit it says Universal Polarouter Geneve and Automatic in the bottom. Therefore, it could be a Frankenwatch. The crown is not original though! I wish that it had such an immaculate service! Also, I would rather have a two tone metallic bracelet as mine comes with a golden case...

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

It may not be a Frankenwatch, but maybe just a redial.

[@rbruce63]

@@TimelessHistoryChannel I will ascertain as soon as I get it!

[@lizhechao1]

Thanks for the nice video! I noticed my polerouter is missing the caseback gasket and am looking to buy one. Do you remember the type and size of the gasket you used for this watch? Is it a flat gasket?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

The one for a Rolex Datejust should work

[@nukvar23]

Great video! Can you help suggesting how to find such a caseback tool?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Thank you! There are many different key sizes. Some I got from retired watch makers while some I bought off eBay a while back. Can’t buy them new anymore.

[@benmak3283]

Hi Sir : There are lots of screws in different sides , how do you figure it out which one is belongs to it's place when you put it back ?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

You know what is funny? When I first started watch repairing I asked the same question to my instructor. Strangely, this is something you naturally pick up after many years working on watches. Your mind somehow remember where each screw belong to. I've been repairing watches for over 2 decades now. :-)

[@Visitor555]

Hi mate, do you think its bad for the movement to go back and forward to change date faster like you make on the video? Especially for vintage watches? Cheers!

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Hi, I would not recommend you doing that if the watch has been worn for decades without any service.

[@stirlingmoss4621]

do you use grease for the high friction parts? I thought I could only see oil in your presentation and no thin skin of grease for the spring and its case.

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Hi, you can see my list of oil that I normally use during a service in the description below the video.

[@stirlingmoss4621]

@@TimelessHistoryChannel thank you.

[@davidaugustinho664]

did I miss something or did you leave the keyless works intact when the watch was cleaned ?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

I always leave them intact before going through the cleaning process. The same I do for the pallet and balance complete. But before doing so, everything is checked to manually cleaned of any visible dirt. Once it goes through the cleaning process, the solution will clean any remain residue. One thing for sure is I do change my cleaning and rinsing solution quite frequent, so the finish of the cleaned movement is always shiny and looking like new.

[@rexsee7071]

What do you call that kind of case back openner? Thanks!

[@francomanca]

Great video... I've been looking to find something like this cause I've found my father polerouter with bumper movement.... The case is exactly as this one in the video. He bought it around 1956 with his first salary as airforce officer pilot... He paid for it 42.000 Italian l8ras 9f that time.. When his salary was 48.000 l8ras... I had it overhauled during the 80s and after a very long time and travels I went back home a few days ago and found it again somewhere amongst books and various objects that I did not see for more than 40 years... And it is still a beauty... Black dial that I had it reprinted back then... Just the crown is not original and 8 just can't stand it... I have to find an original... But I have no idea of sizes etc... Would you help me please... What should I be looking for?... Thank you 8nnaevance for any advice. Regards Franco

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Thank you for the comment and story. Unfortunately I am no expert when it comes to a UG watch. I can restore one, but I am no specialist in this brand. Try this website: universalgenevepolerouter.com

[@francomanca]

@@TimelessHistoryChannel many many thanks... That website it's a goldmine of knowledge!

[@LCMNUNES1962]

ÓTIMO TRABALHO VERY GOOD, Brasil ok

[@massimoalberio7946]

Hello, great video :-) can you pls share more details about that mainspring roller? I would like to buy it. Thx

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

The mainspring winder cover is put somewhere in the shop and I cannot locate it. It is a vintage set that I bought from eBay many years ago. I got another set from a retired watch maker as well. But I believe there are new set available if you search on eBay. I don't think you can buy them individually.

[@victorbrehmer5527]

Hi! I am servicing a UG cal 215 at the moment but there is this issue that I have where when I try to set the time on the watch the train wheels are put under tension while spinning the crown and therefore stopping the entire mechanism. Any idea of what this issue could be? Huge thanks!

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Hi, this is a bit hard to say. But have you diagnose the cannon pinion? It sounds to me like the cannon pinion is a bit too tight.

[@stirlingmoss4621]

I also noticed you winding the watch time backwards.

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

With proper lubrication and since the watch is recently serviced, there is no issue counter clock turn the hands.

[@stirlingmoss4621]

@@TimelessHistoryChannel Uh-oh! Many would disagree

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

@@stirlingmoss4621 That's because they never service their watches. Do not forget, in the Omega calendar manual for non-quick set date calibers, they even ask you to counter clock turn the hands backward and then forward for each date to change faster.

[@superbirdcreative]

Great video. Interesting mainspring winding tool. Is it vintage or widely available? If so where can I get one?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Thank you. Tool is vintage. Can find them from time to time on EBay.

[@nukvar23]

Hi, how many case clamps were you using in total? 2 or 4?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

There are 2 that hold the movement to the movement holder metal ring, and then there are 2 more that are actual case clamps that hold the movement holder metal ring to the case.

[@VWatchie]

You seem to keep repeating that "there are a lot of watchmakers who will leave the mainspring inside the barrel when they're cleaning the watch". How do you know? Thanks!

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

I’ve bought a lot of watches from individual that claim their watches have been recently serviced. I’m sure you are a watch maker yourself and should be able to differentiate a cleaned/healthy mainspring verses one that is not. My first five years working as a full time watch maker I’ve visited many watch repair shops and met many watch makers. Some will share their techniques such as leave the entire train bridge on to get the job done faster. Many will tell me that I can skip the removing the mainspring part. I’ve worked on several thousands of Omega watches in the past 2 decades. I would say nearly 70-80% of the time I would need to replace the mainspring on a bumper automatic Omega. I like the mainspring to feel smooth all the way without any bumps as I slide my finger over. And I like a mainspring that appear like a S shape instead of curled up like the shell of a snail.

[@MrAristaeus]

Please forgive the novice’s question, but is this more unusual type of caseback due to the microrotor? I own a solid gold C shape cased watch from the early 70s that has the octagonal type shape and which I think will necessitate the same type of opener. It is an automatic quickset date and is surprisingly thin, so had thought that it had some sort of microrotor. As the caseback is gold I am trying to do as much research as possible before opening it as for obvious reasons I don’t want to damage it. Many thanks, in advance.

[@MrAristaeus]

P.S. this watch looks sensational on that bracelet. The all steel colour palate adds superb legibility to the gold indices and Universal logo. It reminds me of the arrowhead indices on the 50s Constellations. I like the rectangular indices too that echo the crosshair dial. A wonderful restoration and a testament to your refined eye! It’s a gem!

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Thank you for the comment. On a regular screw lock case back it will have these small slots (normally 6). You can buy the jaxa type tool on eBay and on many other web platforms. But the case back on this UG does not have these slots. Instead it has 12 sides which will require a special tool that can fit and lock tight against the 12 side in order to unscrew it open.

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Many thanks! I ran out of a lot of my straps recently, couldn’t find anything that will match nicely with this watch. But a metal bracelet is normally the quick fix. :D

[@Landrew0]

There's nothing wrong with polishing the case and restoring the dial if you like the look.

[@amorroma1244]

Completely correct. But if you want to maintain the value of your watch, polishing your watch will not help.

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

That’s correct. There is nothing wrong with a case polish if value is not a concern to you. Dial refinish will affect the value a whole lot as well. Unfortunately, no body can refinish the dial to appear just like the original. Which is why no matter how good the redial is, someone like myself will be able to spot it. If you are going to polish the case of your watch, I recommend that you at the very least give it to a professional to do it. By that, I means someone who knows how to properly polish the case of a watch. You want to keep the edges and bevel. The other thing is, aside from lowering the value, it is much harder to resell a polished/redial watch.

[@MrZeke]

also, what brand of mainspring winder was that? Not bergeon?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Someone has asked me before, unfortunately, I do not know where I left the case for it. It is definitely not Bergeon. One I bought off eBay years ago.

[@bodegaboylex]

Are these water proof

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

No vintage watch is considered waterproof. But with the proper tools and gasket + crystal, you can swim with this watch.

[@diegoa7532]

This caliber the 215 allows for manual winding ?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Yes you can

[@diegoa7532]

@@TimelessHistoryChannel Thanks!

[@jakobb4968]

Why are you cleaning the balance with the bearing mounted? There is stil old oil on the balance pivot. Cleaning watch parts like the capstone with rodico will probably cause in bad oil holding and aging over long term..and oiling the palet jewels before assembling the escape wheel will cause in oil slipping on the top of the escape wheel tooth...i think you've already done better watch services. But nevertheless nice video and good content.

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Thank you for the input. Trust me, I double check everything. The cleaning solution I used are not cheap either. They do an excellent job. And no, using the rodico alone will not be able to remove all of the old oil on some movement. The actual restoration job for this watch takes a few hours and not just the 30+ mins. Also, once you put the watch on the timing machine, the reading on the graph will explain quite a lot whether you did a good or bad job. I’ve been a watch maker for the past 2 decades. First 5 years were the most difficult time as a watch maker. :)

[@thenoobwatchmaker3604]

Thanks for all the great content. I'm learning a lot. Where do you get your replacement parts from?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

You're welcome. I've been repairing watches almost on a daily basis for the past 2 decades. So I do have plenty of watch parts in the shop. But if I ever needed something that I do not have, I can always try asking around or place an order with my local supply house.

[@Nathan.W1696]

@@TimelessHistoryChannel hey great vid! I recently picked up a 20363/3 reference and wanted to see if you knew the part number or anything about the crystal. Mine is signed but heavily scratched and so I want to preserve it/put it aside. Hard to find such detailed data on this ref even from the polerouter guide/wiki

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

@@Nathan.W1696 Unfortunately I do not.

[@MrZeke]

do you peg the jewel holes during this process? also, why did you remount the mainspring bridge to the mainplate before putting it in the cleaner?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

I used to use pegwood back when I first started learning how to service a watch. I would clean the entire watch by hands. Now I seldom use pegwood unless the movement is extremely dirty where you can see the watch is gummed up. During the cleaning process in the machine, the movement will go through 4 different stations. 3 of which the movement will go through different cleaning and rinsing solution. These are special watch cleaning solution that will deep clean and remove pretty much any dirt/old oil residue on the movement. You mean why did I remount the train wheel bridge? That is just to protect the balance wheel in case a far from the other side of the divider slip over.

[@MrZeke]

@@TimelessHistoryChannel I just meant the jewel holes, in school we are learning to peg wood the jewel holes and inspect for cracked jewels.

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

@@MrZeke That's right. I used to use peg wood to clean up jewel holes as well. Crack you can see even without cleaning the jewel to be honest. But for now, follow what the school has to teach you.

[@MrZeke]

@@TimelessHistoryChannel thanks, yes, our cleaning machine is much different. It has separate thimbles and baskets.

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

@@MrZeke Most likely a more modernize machine. :-) Whatever it is, the solution is most important. Wish you all the best. Never give up. I know my first 5 years were very difficult.

[@lasaventurasdejimmy2895]

My microrotor comes off, what could be happening, thank you

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Broken or a very worn movement

[@Keeperofthekey13]

Do you on sell any of your watches?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Yes I do! www.omegaenthusiastltd.com

[@hungminhlam5485]

OK

[@chime137]

Where can I get a Universal Geneve polerouter fixed?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

I'm not sure, to be honest. I'm a private watchmaker in Canada. What you can do is create a post on the Omega Forums. There are many people there who will be able to recommend you to a reputable watchmaker near you.

[@chime137]

@@TimelessHistoryChannel Where are the Omega Forums? Twitter? Reddit?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

@@chime137 Oh, there are just one Omega forums when you google search. Even though it is called the "Omega forums," collectors there will discuss anything related to watches.

[@ElectroMac74]

LP645631286FR hi Sir, bought a Moeris Swiss watch, the hand wounding had no end stop, winding it for 5minutes straight ! it help it only working no more than 7 hours, is the mainspring Broken? by the way any recommendation for a sub 50 $ mainspring winder? thanks

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Is your watch an automatic watch? You will wind forever if it is. But even so it should hold up for at least 36hr +

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

I bought my mainspring winder years ago. Not sure what they cost nowadays, but you can try searching on Ebay for one.

[@ElectroMac74]

@@TimelessHistoryChannel its a hand wound, may need some oiling, or MainSpring change! love to see a video on oiling, love the Content, thanks for your Generosity

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

@@ElectroMac74 If it is a manual wind watch, then you will need to replace the mainspring for sure since manual wind mainspring will stop when you have wind to the end.

[@cdb5001]

Nice work and nice watch. Will you be selling this one?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Thank you! Eventually yes. I am working on a new site. Will have other brand name watches for sale over there.

[@cdb5001]

@@TimelessHistoryChannel oh sweet! Will you be updating with a video or a notice on your current website?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

@@cdb5001 I'll make the announcement on my Instagram account. :-)

[@pw5626]

Why polishing the case is wrong?

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Certain vintage item such as a Car you can go ahead and polish. But on a watch, you do not want to polish the case as it will take away its original finish and its value.

[@giorgiogrlj]

My age. :)

[@alerojas2952]

Lovely video but you need to further improve your English.

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Ouch! Worst than getting stabbed by a tweezers

[@hph4833]

His English is perfect. maybe you just need to improve your hearing

[@Ron_A._Bolton]

Great skills and content, but can't watch past half way as you are still using one piece of music over and over and over and over and over and over and over again, again. You said you weren't going to do that any more. 😢

[@TimelessHistoryChannel]

Sorry about that, unfortunately, when I used the music provided by KZbin, I had to remove the video due to many complaints. Feel free to mute my video and turn on your own music. haha

[@Ron_A._Bolton]

@@TimelessHistoryChannel what issues are you having with the copywrite free music library? I use it for my videos without issue?