Retr0brighting the easy way (Protek 3015B power supply)

We try our hand at retr0brighting a very yellowed Protek power supply, with a simplified method.
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[@kaitlyn__L]

I love your intro, explaining it's basically an oxygen bleaching process. So many of the early materials were like "I don't know why it works, but it does", I'd been dyeing my hair since I was 12 so I immediately knew it was bleaching! Although it's possible to overshoot if done with risky methods like high heat or direct strong sunlight, very weak near-UV light or weak heat like you used is almost impossible to overshoot which is nice. It mostly reacts with the oxidised bromine, pulls off the oxygen to un-free-radical itself, and leaves the ABS more or less as it was. Those higher-energy retro-bright reactions just have enough energy that the free radicals actually can continue to attack the bromine and even sometimes the ABS itself or the other dyes, and that's when you get those awful over-brightened pieces. When you're bleaching hair you need a second component to get the peroxide to actually interact with the melanins, but brominated ABS seems to react by itself once it's yellowed!

[@sock_master]

The one button that went yellow is simply from a different batch of plastic than the other three. Apparently just a small variation in the ratio of Bromine in the plastic makes the difference between turning yellow or not turning yellow over time. I have a Super Nintendo where the top shell piece is normal and the bottom is very yellow and both parts experienced the same environment over the years.

[@magickmarck]

Pretty fascinating

[@beatadalhagen]

I have seen this happen to outlet plates installed in a home, it is annoying but very common.

[@wolvenar]

I have done this for years now. I learned the UV is almost completely unneeded. But on the other hand I brightened a Mac LC by just sitting it in the sun on a rotating bed for a couple days in a row ( in a northern climate) That was the easiest as I didn't have to take it apart.

[@basketballjones6782]

The 3015B is a decent supply and is easy to service. Good thing too - I've had to fix it once when I purchased it at a hamfest second hand from a dude who insisted it worked fine. Now if we could only find a product that cures that stinking black rubberized plastic stuff so popular in the 2000s-2015 or so that turns to sticky black goo which cannot be removed from whatever it gets onto without dynamite....

[@tlhIngan]

Heh. My company had those power supplies! They were desired and often mobbed because of those two buttons. The one on the left turned the output on and off (so you don't rely on the power supply regulation on power up - those can be nasty spikes that damage attached equipment). The button on the right let you set the current limit (without turning the output on). The traditional way we had to do it was short the output and set the limit that way, but we've burned out many power supplies that way because you're not supposed to short them out for extended periods of time (stresses the shunts and such). Despite their rather generic "Chinese-y" look so you'd think you'd be able to get identical ones from other companies, we never managed to.

[@absurdengineering]

Shorting the output is part and parcel of my acceptance testing of, well, pretty much any bench supply. Properly engineered designs just shrug it off. Under-engineered stuff may not like it, and it's an instant "reject" from me :) Even better if a supply can survive a heavy duty relay switching between shorted/open output at 1Hz. Some supplies have unprotected bipolar stages that explode after a few minutes of such treatment. I use them, well, their cases, and put my own designs inside :) I mostly use HP, Kepco and Power Designs with few changes, but over the years I've re-laid their PCBs to improve performance a little bit, and add a few features. Over the next year I'll putting that stuff over on Hackaday. Slowly.

[@McTroyd]

Thanks for the toaster oven idea. I have an old oven from my mother that hasn’t been used to make food in decades. Planned to use it for solder reflow, but this would work too.

[@bennylloyd-willner9667]

Wow, a CM video where I understood everything 😊

[@paulmorley1225]

Thanks for making Retr0brighting fun and interesting to watch!

[@Geomanb]

don’t smoke

[@paulmorley1225]

@@Geomanb No smoking necessary to yellow those old plastics, they brittle and change color over time from oxidization. About the only thing that could have been done to prevent it from happening in the first place is to keep it wrapped in plastic starting from the day it left the factory.

[@paulmorley1225]

​@@Geomanb Or drink!!

[@bborkzilla]

This makes me appreciate my old school Power Designs triple output bench supplies. No plastic panels on those!

[@CuriousMarc]

That’s the better way to do it. Start with units that don’t have @#$&*%! modern plastic!

[@peshozmiata]

Or you can just have it be made out of black plastic and forget about it

[@absurdengineering]

All of Power Designs, Kepco and HP supplies in my lab have 1/8" aluminum front panels. The only thing that seems to yellow the paint on those is cigarette smoke. Some old eBay finds need a panel "de-smoking". Otherwise no problem :)

[@ches74]

The Hey Birt channel has an excellent retr0brighting video.

[@codebeat4192]

Tip: What I do with bad condition plastics (brittle, weak or dull color) is to use furniture oil. To be exactly Pledge of the company Johnson&Johnson. The smell is very nice and revive the plastic very well. You need a thick layer of this stuff and let it soak for a few days. The result is amazing.

[@jamesdecross1035]

Interesting!

[@SeanBZA]

Yes the silicone oil in it works wonders, though you can also use tire shine, the unscented clear silicone oil, to do the exact same, and also you get the advantage you can spot apply it as well to things like the clips, to get them more flexible again. I bought a 5l bottle of it years ago, and as you use it sparingly it lasts a long time. Cost around $60 then for it, and I use it on all plastic car parts as well.

[@f.d.6667]

Ugh... yes, but: solvents, light hydrocarbons and tensides will fill in the tiny cracks in the plastic - but they will also attack the remaining plastic and cause chemical corrosion, further weakening the part! Try a mix of boiled linseed oil, beeswax and a tiny amount of turpentine (WARNING: rags with this mix WILL self-ignite!!!🔥🚒): the color will deepen and white spots/scratches will be filled in. Oxygen from the air will polymerize the BLO in a few days. Works well on polyamides (power tools) too. There is a commercial product called POLYTROL where the BSO is replaced with synthetic polymerizing oils that have a lower risk of auto-combustion.

[@tony359]

I was going to use some car dashboard product. Should be plastic-safe and, hopefully, with a similar effect. Retrobrighting sometimes leaves the plastic a bit dull. But thanks!

[@codebeat4192]

@@SeanBZA Silicone oil/spray is not the same and doesn't have the same effect. Silicone hardens and makes the surface SHINE and that is mostly not what you want. Silicone is like a layer of varnish on top of a strachy/dull surface. This pledge product goes to the inside of the surface and leave a matt shiny finish (like as is as brand new). When brittle, it soften it a little to more flexible to avoid it can easily break. That is really a difference and I know this difference because I tried it several times.

[@bernhardm9475]

Dave Tipton, who restores old radios 'down-under', has a technique where you place the plastic in a sealable bag with the hair bleaching agent on said plastic, and leaving it in the hot sun for the day. It worked a treat for my old KLH and Advent 'restorations'.

[@RickBaconsAdventures]

if they get any more brittle, we'll have to draw it in solidworks and have PCBWay CNC us some new ones out of aluminum! I have a couple of the Protek supplies that are that size but single output, I think they go to 60V 5A. Two of them are really yellow but one is not so bad

[@Ice_Karma]

Higher temperatures can accelerate the yellowing of susceptible plastics, but it's not strictly necessary -- they can yellow regardless, and the evenness of the yellowing on the power supply front panel, inside and out, makes me suspect that's what has happened here. Also, the 8-Bit Guy does sometimes have problems with plastic coming out unevenly brightened, and if I recall correctly, he's blamed that on uneven paste coverage. And finally, your method is really the "simplified simplified" method, because if I again recall correctly, the original retr0brite recipe involved more than just hydrogen peroxide, but others worked out that it was the hydrogen peroxide that was the active ingredient.

[@Morinaka25]

You're right to distrust the evenness of cream peroxide, a lot of people get an unwanted "marbling" effect on the plastic with the cream method.

[@f.d.6667]

Great video - as usual. As a product designer, here is my alternative method for really bulky items like CRT-housings: have a rattle-can (or several) flat matte "computer-greige", solvent-based ACRYLIC spray paint mixed: Spray-paint your (de-greased) discolored ABS-parts in several thin layers from various angles and they will look crisp and new and will never yellow again as the acrylic binder is very UV-stable (test paint - plastic compatibility on the inside first and let that spot FULLY dry... there should be no cracks or wrinkles or any stickiness after about 1hr!).

[@briangoldberg4439]

I typically use a plastic protector after something like that. I use the Aerospace 303 stuff. Not sure if it really helps, but it definitely has UV protection in it

[@marcuswilson007]

Two chemists walk into a bar. One tells the bartender, "I'll have an H2O." The other says, "I'll have an H2O too!" The second chemist dies.

[@andrey8688]

The second chemist was a bad one. :)

[@basketballjones6782]

@@andrey8688 Both are bad... they are in a place surrounded by wonderful drinks and they order water!

[@andrey8688]

@@basketballjones6782Ha-ha

[@Sigmatechnica]

I often think it would be nice to make an OLED of TFT display replacment for HP supplies. Not least because a couple of mine have degrading plastics around the edge of the analog meters, but also to add some more infomation that im sure must be available in the circuit

[@vincei4252]

Hi Marc, regarding using an oven to keep things warm, I recently bought a large food dehydrator for things like this. I needed it for heating up my 3D printer filament for several to drive out moisture as the rolls have been out in the open for a long time. The advantage of the dehydrator is you can't accidentally set it to super high temps and I don't have to use my kitchen oven for these sorts of tasks. FWIW, I got the large COSORI model on AMZN, don't know how well it'll last but it's not like it'll be use a lot. Cheers!

[@525Lines]

It's like the way Super Nintendos always have one part of the case that's way more yellow than the other. I think they just use different mixes of plastic and you get what you get.

[@SeanBZA]

Yes likely different suppliers with the same mouilds, and the product gets mixed up in production. Likely one used more recycled ABS in the mix, while the other had a fresh batch of ABS and PVC, plus more of the titanium dioxide whitener in the blend as well for the raw stock they extruded and chopped into nurdles.

[@olik136]

I had an Asus "REVO" mini PC from about 2007 that came with a completely snow white keyboard that I never used... when I found it 10 years later it was horribly yellowed (like C64 bread bin orange) but about 1/3 of the keys randomly stayed completely white. Very weird- no obvious pattern to it. It also obviously yellowed much faster than anything I had seen before

[@RinoaL]

That's funny, I'm actually working on another video like this too. Although I do one every few years. I hate how hydrogen peroxide burns my skin if I get it on me, and I've had an odd issue of my viewers saying I'm lying whenever I mention that's a possibility. Viewers are sometimes very dumb, and people get very superstitious about reotrobrighting too. Hell, many still insist that it won't work without UV lamps. hahaha

[@Jawst]

Yes you should probably avoid oxidising your skin 😂😂 even smart people can do stupid things

[@Andrew_Fernie]

Yeah, that's because they haven't tried it.

[@richardblair3021]

Bromine was only responsible for yellowing in some computer hardware in the late 70s. It’s a more complex reaction induced by UV light. Modern LED lighting will limit reyellowing. Fluorescent lighting with exacerbate it. You should coat your plastic with UV protectant to reduce reyellowing. Perifractic (Retro Recipes) has a good video on it from 3 years ago- Retrobrighting with just the Sun.

[@TheDefpom]

Be careful using heat as the Vicat (softening point) of some plastics are about 65 degrees C, being close to that will result in shrinkage and deformation.

[@thesteelrodent1796]

Some plastics will start to melt around 40 C, but those are typically not used in electronic equipment

[@cambridgemart2075]

Been there, done that! I washed the back case of my RS DVM after the batteries leaked and tried drying it in a toaster oven on low, it ended up like one of those shrinky-dinks from the 1970S

[@AllElectronicsChannel]

Yep.. I melted a bunch of tek 2465 knobs by mistake

[@McTroyd]

It would be interesting to know if submerging in fluid helped keep the temperature of the part regulated at a lower level. Overnight in a toaster oven at 150F, logic would assume the part reached 150F, but there’s evaporation of the fluid to consider. That is, we’re below water’s boiling point, but there’d be evaporation into open air accelerated by the heat. Would that regulate the temperature down?

[@fixitalex]

Nice!Restored similar PSU recently... Unfortunately case was completely broken. Had to make new one

[@MikeKobb]

Wish I could do this to my Brother laser printer. About half of the plastic panels have turned yellow. The other half have not. It's annoying. But not annoying enough to take the whole thing apart and find a large enough setup to treat some pretty large parts.

[@Edisson.]

Hello, the result of the discoloration is great 👍I have two white outdoor 230V sockets with a cover, one is exposed to the effects of the climate and the sun - the cover has turned yellow during the time it has been outside, but the frame has remained white, the other one is mounted so that the sun cannot reach it and it is still white as when I installed it twenty years ago - not material, like material. 🤔.......... 🤔 so that the HP source doesn't feel sorry for him and he doesn't feel sad somewhere in the corner, so send it to me 😁 it will look good on my shelf with the same design HP devices, and besides, my birthday is in three weeks , so it fits 🤣 Nice day 🙂 Tom

[@KeritechElectronics]

Oh, that might come in handy as I may be getting a yellow-ish C64 and if that happens, I'd definitely love to restore it... Thanks for the video. Cool aviation instruments BTW.

[@bigsarge2085]

It's the little things in life!

[@gertebert]

3:17 LOL at those HUGE knobs on that oven. We don't have those big knobs in Europe. People still have quite normal hands and fingers over here.

[@gregkrekelberg4632]

I had no idea that was possible. Very cool!

[@Stuntman707]

The best results I’ve seen use UV. Either left in the sun or using LED / strip lights. Hairdresser Peroxide works well as it is in a cream so sticks to the surfaces. Liquid peroxide is good in a fish tank surrounded with UV led tape and foil.

[@feicodeboer]

"except I should do it better because I work on 16 bit computers"... Thank you, you made my day. 😂

[@MrMaxeemum]

I never thought I would see the day Curious Mark would replace a piece of HP equipment with something more modern. Maybe Mr Fancy Pants has upset him?

[@carpetbomberz]

Toaster Oven you say⁉ Reflowing solder AND Retr0brighting fun, all in one small package. Now you're playing with power!

[@DerekHerbst747]

I recognised aviation standard voltages being set up on the PSU (28V) which I guess went into the space technology too. Is 115V/400hz also an AC standard?

[@carlclaunch793]

yes indeed - Apollo used 115VAC 400Hz from inverters to power things like the cabin general illumination

[@DerekHerbst747]

@@carlclaunch793 thanks.

[@RingingResonance]

I've warped plastics using the heat method. Never again will I do it that way. I will use UV light as it also seems to work better.

[@peshozmiata]

I wonder if the oven had an extra tempering effect on the plastic to make it less brittle.

[@MrJdsenior]

Nice, if anything the one you didn't do it just the tiniest bit darker. I suspect the off color knob may have been one that was replaced at some point.

[@randomunavailable]

Apparently sunlight works pretty good too.

[@tony359]

Thanks for the video, the retrobrithing process is such an imprecise science, isn't it? I also don't like cream, "marbling" is just round the corner when using it! :)

[@MLX1401]

6:18 When it's CuriousMarc but feels like Pace Soldering Lessons

[@fgaviator]

"Mum!! Dad left his lab in the basement. He's in the kitchen now and doing something weird with your grill!!"

[@Jawst]

🙈 " and his fingers are all white and burnt from concentrated hydrogen peroxide"

[@professor-josh]

"He also stole my hair bleach!"

[@zitt]

You really needed to spray some uv protectant / clear coat on the retobrighted panel before assembly. The plastic will yellow at a faster rate ... I did retrobright for my Star Trek Captain's chair project... and the plastics have already yellowed back to near brown color because I didn't protect the surface from additional UV photons.

[@sykskysyk]

I'm also under the impression that the de-yellowing chemical reaction benefits from UV, which made me think you were going to stick the tray into a UV dish sanitizer instead of a toaster oven. Those are pretty common in Asia, might be worth doing a side-by-side vs. just providing heat from the toaster oven.

[@thesteelrodent1796]

UV is the reason it goes yellow in the first place. In order for UV exposure to work the amount of light provided must be completely even along the entire surface of the object, otherwise you'll see noticeable shading

[@althepal6818]

I would think it yellowed inside because it is not light related but air related. It is oxydation. Has the word suggest, it is related to oxygen present in the air.

[@barrybortnick7999]

Looks like you have a second toaster oven next to your primary toaster oven with BNC connectors; Would that be your Ethernet modded oven? :-)

[@thesteelrodent1796]

I said the same thing on Dave's videos, but I don't understand the reasoning for using hair bleach instead of pure hydrogen peroxide. Hair bleach typically contains large amounts of water and some chemicals to slow the bleaching process and not damage the hair, which is something you don't need on plastic. Pure hydrogen peroxide diluted with water should give you the same result, faster and safer, and don't involve exposing your components to extra chemicals. Those extra chemicals can have unintended side effects on some forms of plastic, especially some of the more exotic ones from the 70s and 80s where they mixed different materials to make them more durable

[@CuriousMarc]

If you look at the chemical formula in the video, pure peroxide makes two free radicals, ones that helps bleaching, one that undoes it. Bleaching solutions do have some additives that promotes the bleaching radical and cancel the other. They are also properly diluted and have other ingredients so that they are safer for the skin. That said I diluted it further and used gloves when I touched the liquid, and I am not a chemist, so take it with a huge grain of additive salt.

[@olepigeon]

I believe it's a combination of H2O2 and UV light that makes the process work, and not necessarily the heat.

[@HubrisInc]

His toaster oven wasn't outputting any UV - they output IR and also the back side of the panel didn't receive any light at all and yet lightened up just as well - it was the heat that did the work in this case

[@olepigeon]

​@@HubrisInc I know his over wasn't outputting UV. :) What I was saying was that I thought the most effective combination is H2O2 + UV (preferably sunlight.) But I guess the 8-Bit Guy's video shows otherwise.

[@jimpainter4402]

rubbing alcohol on a rag and a little elbow grease works for me everytime

[@Jawst]

That's just dirt 😂

[@t1d100]

Excellent. However, personally, I would not have left the part in the oven overnight with the heat on, even at such a low setting, for fear of warping it.

[@EngineeringVignettes]

Your not kidding about those Protek front panels being brittle. I have one.. its a parts donor now. I was toying with 3D printing a new front panel but a) its a complicated shape and b) all my printer beds are too small. And I was too lazy to split up the printing into smaller parts :)- Cheers,

[@codebeat4192]

Tip: What I do with bad condition plastics (brittle, weak or dull color) is to use furniture oil. To be exactly Pledge of the company Johnson&Johnson. The smell is very nice and revive the plastic very well. You need a thick layer of this stuff and let it soak for a few days. The result is amazing.

[@natedawww]

And a little chip of plastic goes flying off at the end!

[@TheStuffMade]

Why not just use straight hydrogen peroxide 6-12%? It works well and you only need to elevate the temperature to something like 40C for good results. Hey Birt did an excellent video on this.

[@laylatrix22]

I'm using 30% H2O2 at ~15% for retrobrighting PLC-s. It works also in dark and room temperature but it takes 24-72 hours.

[@JoZf_Gibson]

Merci

[@Codeaholic1]

If that plastic is ABS you can try ABS welding. It makes a better repair than glue.

[@mycosys]

PP welds REALLY well too

[@crono331]

Whats up with the altimeter 😊

[@basketballjones6782]

Ba-dum-cha......

[@흑석김용호]

Why does that power supply seem like such a like a fond memory.

[@douro20]

Probably because it was made in your part of the world?

[@wiwingmargahayu6831]

do you also learn chemistry in high school in the past???? Sir

[@oetken007]

Why did you cut out the interesting part of calibration?

[@plhebel1]

sweet.

[@waterup380]

oh thanks for the video

[@moconnell663]

Has anyone developed a process for remediation of 1990s and 2000s plastics with rubber over molding that has turned into goo?

[@m.k.8158]

Elbow grease and a suitable solvent will take care of this.

[@aquaz_eu]

I'm sure that HP power supply is very sad now.

[@c1ph3rpunk]

All we need now is someone to find an “anti-brittle” treatment to add some of the original softness back to the plastic.

[@Andrew_Fernie]

yeah, like a plastics moisturiser. Maybe hair conditioner will work.

[@davidhunt240]

I found Autoglym Vinyl and Rubber Care brings softness back to old 80s plastics, due to the silicone oils. Leaves everything shiny and smelling good too 😝

[@Andrew_Fernie]

@@davidhunt240 interesting

[@markohara5146]

Do you repair vintage computer equipment for pay? I need someone who does.

[@CuriousMarc]

Sorry, we don’t.

[@markohara5146]

@@CuriousMarc Thanks Marc. I just picked up an I.B.M. 360 control panel.

[@CuriousMarc]

@@markohara5146 Wow! Which model?

[@markohara5146]

@@CuriousMarc Hey! Model 40. In almost mint condition. Complete. Also picked up a PDP-11/t55. Any manuals for that one available? Hey, I'm restoring the PDP ...would it be better to leave the outside metal frame with paint missing and blotches (white or cream colored) or have it repainted,,,or would it be better not to repaint it?

[@CuriousMarc]

@@markohara5146 Bitsavers has a whole directory of IBM 360 stuff, for example bitsavers.org/pdf/ibm/360/operatingGuide/C20-1635-2_Model_40_Operating_Techniques.pdf

[@darrenerickson1288]

Then you get to 32 bit..... and everything is just black anyway so we save 100%.

[@mycosys]

& if you go back to 36 bit its all metal XD

[@AsbestosMuffins]

if I was trying to retrobright I'd probably use my resin printer's UV lights

[@Yrouel86]

When I did some retrobrighting of my own I used a creamy hair bleaching product and sunlight (UV is the other main ingredient in the process). I wouldn't trust heat to be honest, too risky for plastic imo

[@redheadsg1]

IMO, OddTinkering is better at retrobrighting than 8-BitGuy will ever be. 8-BitGuy is still using the sun while OddTinkering is using UV light and warming element.

[@casparberends2719]

8-bit guy has lately also been using UV lights.

[@clark9992]

I tried putting the yellowed panels from a couple of old HP LaserJets out in the sun for a couple days. They came back about half way. I have read that retrobrighting is only a temporary solution, and it will revert back to yellow, but I can't personally speak to that.

[@timturner7609]

Lol I replaced my old hp power supply with one of these protek triple output ones too.

[@waynec369]

You're probably money ahead to simply use off the shelf H2O2 given the amount of water you wound up adding to the bath...

[@compu85]

Be careful with this method on non white / beige plastics, IE gray keycaps. It's super easy to over-bleach them. Something else that works well: Just leaving the object in the bright summer sun! It takes longer, but this can be an advantage.

[@ВладимирВладимирович-к3ь2е]

Класс👍👍👍👍👍

[@douggolde7582]

Its late at night and I don't know why I'm watching this.

[@petek9348]

i always wondered why people didnt just dunk the plastics in warm water/peroxide as that looked to be the best and simplest method YET they still always do the process of leaving it out in the sun or UV method when it was clearly shown.

[@TheErador]

Heat sometimes can warp items. I've seen spacebars turn into spirals

[@petek9348]

@@TheErador yeah but i wonder what water temp would work out fine.

[@TheErador]

@@petek9348 i think 'Hey Birt', did a pretty comprehensive video on just that subject.

[@mycosys]

I really though you were one of the people with the sense not to destroy the polymer linking with peroxide free radicals. You have ensured the unit will embrittle and decay many years sooner. Apparently the bromine thing is a myth too, but thats not so incredibly obvious as the damage from breaking the polymer linking.

[@hellocollegejason198]

Love 8 bit guy

[@bzuidgeest]

Your behind the times😂. Vapor Brighting is the new thing. No submersion, a little heat and the vapor does the work. No problems with uneven coatings. Your method seems easy, but i think it has a lot of risk of warping plastics because of to much heat. Ovens are usually not that well regulated

[@Andrew_Fernie]

To avoid warping you must keep the plastic below it's glass transition temperature which for ABS is a little over 100 degrees Celcius. I set my overn to around 75c and check it with a thermomter.

[@bzuidgeest]

@@Andrew_Fernie that's smart, but the sun people usually use for the heat doesn't get anywhere near dangerous temp and still works. I can already see the idiots turning up the knobs and melting their plastics.

[@your_utube]

I should be better because I work with 16-bit computers......priceless...kkkkk kkkkk kk kkkk

[@JxH]

In one example, I was able to just spray on white 'Krylon' paint, that is compatible with plastic. Excellent results. Ease depends on masking complexity.

[@groovy1937]

You need UV light to whiten. If you would have put this out in the sun with the 40 on it, it would have whitened quite nice, I know because I do this all the time and it works, the heat did very little, the whitening you achieved was just from have the perioxid solution sitting on it. I use the gel and spread on a nice coat cover with plastic wrap and then sit in the sun for a while.

[@Amberlynn_Reid]

8bitguy been real quite since this dropped

[@strangeluck]

So were all the retro-brighting videos I've ever seen, all going to great lengths to bathe parts in UV, actually just heating the peroxide solution? Sure looks it. 🙄

[@ROBOTRIX_eu]

nail acetone

[@TheErador]

Which melts abs plastic, yes?

[@aboreddev]

First