Retro Colt 601 NoDak Lower early Vietnam era build AR15

[@JoeyP322]

I know this is old, but most of the guys I know (and me) built the M16A1’s from kits, that included everything except the receiver (and recently the barrels)... NoDak were the only company making those lowers. Now of course Brownells got into the game... I am going through the process of building the Air Force M16, now, which is very close to my Colt SP1. Thanks for the video

[@MaverickTangent]

Joey P thanks dude! Brownells is using NoDak parts. I just ordered an XM16E1 lower from them to start that build

[@QuentinQuatermass]

I want to thank you again for this great video, Maverick Tangent! The detail you explained is very helpful, I haven't found a better series of videos on the 601/602 retro build. Very well done! I wasn't quite up to doing this myself so paid about $300 more for the Brownells retro 601 complete rifle which actually follows your form factor. They went with the Nodak 601 lower and 604 upper, too. Then they used their 1/12 twist pencil barrel of the 602 but with the 601 duckbill. Then they slap on green furniture and call it a 601 but it's more accurate as a modified 601/602. But it doesn't matter, I agree with your point that these are close copies of Air Force "M16s", pre-Army XM16E1/M16A1 A job well done at a great price, I know you're pleased with your excellent build!

[@31Mike]

I considered doing one like this also, but think I've decided on the XM16E1. I have an A1 that I built from a surplus parts kit, which I made as a sort of 'tribute' to the rifles that I carried when I was in the Army in the late 80's and early 90's. So the XM16E1 would fit in the timeline of my 'Service Rifle' collection (I have an 1873 Trapdoor, an 1898 Krag, an M1 Garand, an M1A in an M14 stock, an M16A1 (AR), and M16A2 (AR) and an M4 (AR). So it's either going to be the XM16E1 or I'll search for a 1903 to fill its hole in the collection.

[@UnitCrane514]

Good luck finding the rear sight! Those are unbelievably hard to find!

[@MaverickTangent]

eh.... It shoots fine without the rear site ;) actually, I have ALL the parts EXCEPT the rear sight so its ready to go together, soon.

[@Sandhill1988]

That is going to be beautiful and very historically correct but also backbreakingly expensive. If I ever do one of these I'll just buy the reproduction Parts through Brownells and retro rifles. Can build the same thing for under a grand with the 1 in 14 twist Barrel that the 601 came with.

[@MaverickTangent]

I have a video of it complete

[@MaverickTangent]

It also has a 1/14 twist barrel, too

[@bentley4l]

I plan on ordering an NDS 601 lower and doing a retro mod build around the lower, hopefully what looks good in my head will transition to life just as nice lol

[@anthonyluis4267]

Awesome thank you for sharing, can you do a video on finished rifle ?

[@MaverickTangent]

Anthony Luis we'll see. I need to get a barrel and a rear sight. but I should have those this month

[@MaverickTangent]

Anthony Luis don't give up. I finally got a rear sight, plan on doing tje follow up video this weekend.

[@TheBiggestIron]

Really cool man. I'm looking to build one myself one day yet NoDak hardly ever has these upper and lowers. I want a slabside.

[@MaverickTangent]

TheNuttyGun Nut be makes them in batches 4 times a year. you have to order one and wait, they will never just "be in stock"

[@TheBiggestIron]

Maverick Tangent alright thanks for the heads up

[@MaverickTangent]

Just as information, I ordered mine in July and got it in January... so that's a full 6 months. Sometimes people back out or they might have blems that aren't listed on their website. Also, the Brownell's retro lowers are NoDak lowers, so the wait times are between 4-6 months as well. GB has some for sale sometimes, but you pay a premium, maybe double what NoDak charges. And the SP1 lowers are stupid expensive.

[@TheBiggestIron]

Maverick Tangent sometimes I wonder if I could just find an old sp1 for about $1,500

[@MaverickTangent]

Maybe. I'll have less than $1000 in my 'clone' but I had to wait. SP1 for $1500 is a decent price, sometimes you can find them for that price if you live in an area with 'old' gun shops that get lots of trade ins

[@duckandcover1988]

Do you have a link for the magazine release and bolt catch? Looking forward to seeing the full build!

[@MaverickTangent]

No, but I just search gb for Colt 601 every once in a while. Today, there a REAL 601 bolt catch on there and its bid up to $118 right now.

[@Civiliansoldier762]

Which model had the charging handle under the carry handle sight?

[@MaverickTangent]

Civiliansoldier762 only the prototypes, like pre model 601 and 1959.

[@patrickedwards7107]

While I know it absolutely wouldn't be period correct I recently bought a colt csr15 and have always been fond of the original look of the Vietnam era forend and stock. Has anyone here successfully added the fsb and retro furniture to a 16" barrel?

[@MaverickTangent]

Its more difficult than just buying a 16" barrel with a fsb already on it and swapping them

[@MaverickTangent]

You need a taper reamer to drill the correct holes. You an drill just normal roll pin holes, but you also have to line it up

[@patrickedwards7107]

Thank you for responding I'm very green to the world of AR a bulk of my knowledge is with ak pattern rifles. A nicely priced colt was consigned at my local shop and it followed me home. It's the csr15 and I didnt notice immediately it was a carbine. I'm not digging the strange tubular forend on it or the lack of iron sights

[@keiththiha]

I thought the sp1s had a larger hole for the front takedown pin (large screw on sp1)

[@MaverickTangent]

Keith's tech the sp1 does, but this isn't an SP1 upper or lower. They are the original spec of the early military colt and not the commercial SP1. Although, I'd venture a guess than an SP1 upper would fit on this NoDak lower. Since the pin size is larger than on an M16 or modern lower.

[@keiththiha]

Maverick Tangent I apologize, my question was not clear, I would like to know if a sp1 upper could fit on this NDS lower. Edit- is the NDS front pin larger than a standard front pin.

[@MaverickTangent]

Maybe. Idk. But i wouldn't count on it. That's why i ponied up and bought them both together.

[@charlieb308]

Keith's tech you can buy adapter pins that will connect a large hole upper with small hole lower. I’ve done it before.

[@thepenultimateninja5797]

Probably way too late now, but I'll put this here in case it helps someone else: Sanding off anodizing is extremely difficult, because it is the same thing that the abrasive in abrasive paper is made of (aluminum oxide). One of the problems is that once you finally manage to break through in one area and expose the soft aluminum underneath, that aluminum will get sanded away much faster than the areas that still have anodizing on them, leading to an uneven surface. There is a much better way to remove anodizing - you can strip it with sodium hydroxide (aka 'lye'). This is readily available, sold as drain unblocker (Drano is one brand that I have used) and also oven cleaners (not the fume free versions, the heavy duty ones). It strips anodizing off very effectively, so be careful to only apply it to the areas you actually want to strip! Also, it's nasty stuff, so don't get it on your skin or in your eyes - wear appropriate safety gear.

[@craigkoehler4363]

NoDak Spud is the absolute least marketable name and rollmark in firearms. Stupid really.