Revell 1:110 HMAV Bounty Part 2 Wood Effects and Scratch Parts

[@AlexModeling]

Really love this séries! That scroll detail os TOP knotch! Also your wood tone is great

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Thanks Alex. Can’t wait to get the masts and sails on it now

[@usssaratogacv3lefevre978]

Great instructional video, Harry. The detail on the life boat and lamps really look great.

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Thanks matey... it has been so much fun to work on this ship.

[@MrRon6977]

Outstanding Harry. The kit would have looked nice out of the box. But the added details make it stand out. Its a unique one of a kind model now. And you've shown,(As you Usually Do) that with a little imagination. The sky's the limit. Thanks again Harry

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Thanks Ron... my imagination just takes over some times... but then again the Hobby should be fun and what ever you make of it.

[@jorllima]

Im starting to build this model amd your videos are really useful. You research on this ship and your tricks on painting have saved me a lot of time. Thank you! Im really keen about the rigging progress.

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Keen about rigging? Not words you hear often... LOL I will be making my own shrouds and ratlines with a rigging tool and replacing the plastic pulleys with wooden ones from my Hobby Store. I’m also making cloth sails which I will talk about in the next video.

[@lesball4143]

Great vid and build mate, really turning that old kit into a masterpiece.

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Thanks Les.. it’s been a mojo restarter!

[@nuclear_pigeons8762]

I've just found your stuff harry, and not only am I learning to make better models, but your videos are immensely relaxing and fun to watch. Keep going man, and I love love ya

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Thanks matey good to have you aboard

[@petermerz2704]

Great video! Love the scrolls, the lifeboat and your wood effects. I’ve learned a lot from your videos, still waiting to see the rigging! Happy days and model on! 😎

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

There are a lot of rigging videos, all chaptered for quick reference later when you need to find a specific knot or line.

[@JimPaulJr]

Your wood effects on this model are outstanding Harry. Could pass for a wood ship model. Seeing you build this brings back many memories, as I was on the Bounty that was used in filming the remake with Mel Gibson when it was at the municipal pier in St. Petersburg, Florida for many years. Went on it many times back in the 70's as we used to fish there when on vacation every year on our yearly trip to Florida. It's a shame it was lost. Again your paint work on this looks outstanding and very realistic. Looking forward to the finished model.

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Sadly I did not get to see The Bounty while she was moored in Sydney Harbour years ago... and yes who knows what happened to her in Hong Kong in 2017?

[@andydavies3949]

Loving the tips and tricks Harry, great video again

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Thanks Andy

[@wwkdiecastmore5647]

Really nice, the wood weathering is great, thanks for sharing!....Bill

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Happy to share what little I know...

[@4ngu54110tt]

Cheers Harry. Looking great!

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Thanks Angus.

[@johnstimitz2629]

Well done, Harry! I don’t build ship models but I’m thoroughly enjoying your videos. I never knew about the Lifecolor liquid pigments. I’ll have to see what they have for armor. Once again, well done!

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Lifecolor Liquid Pigments are available in Rust, Armour, Mud, Ships and many more sets... I have those 4

[@CWModelling]

Excellent skills 👍

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Thanks CW

[@BGsModelWorkshop]

Some excellent scratch work mate!

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Thanks Bryan...

[@chrisbarber5842]

Intrestesting and helpful video thanks Harry

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Happy you enjoyed it matey

[@guidor.4161]

Those lamps are great! Hard or impossible to get as accessory parts. I plan to build 2 or maybe only 1 for my under-construction Zvezda Nina. Might use clear sprue for the glass body...

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

I could not find any in the size and style I needed. Yes a clear sprue centre might be a good trick.

[@strikeeaglemodels1588]

The wood effect is looking impressive buddy 😍

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Thanks mate... all done by Lifecolor.. great product.

[@strikeeaglemodels1588]

Harry Houdini Models Think I need a bottle of this 👍

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

They sell a complete ship detailing set in the Liquid Pigments. Not sure if you can buy individual bottles. The brown I use a lot is called “Wooden Deck Shadower” LPW19

[@AdrianBowerProject]

Yet another great video Harry!! I'm just about to start my own diorama using this very kit, and wasn't aware about the missing wheel house at the stern of the ship. Could you put the dimensions you used to scratch build this please, as I'm getting more into this side of modelling, and would like to give it a go myself on the build. I'm also wanting to have my ship in port, and so the sails would be in the folded position. This will mean making my own as the kit only supplies the sails unfurled. I'd be glad of any tips here too. Thank you Harry!!

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Thanks... if you private message me, here or in Facebook, I can email you my plans for the wheel house. Making furled sails is pretty easy. Use either tissue or light cloth. Match the width to the sails in the kit but cut the height about half the size on the sides and full length in the middle. Fold back and forth a loose concertina style then use cotton to tie at the points the rigging would pull the sails. It may take some fiddling to get it just right but once you have tight bunches at the ends of the yards and a nice droop in the middle it will look spot on. I will be doing just this for my ship on the lower sails. To keep the shape and make it easy to fix to your yard arm, just paint on a solution of half PVA white wood glue and half water to set the cloth or tissue in place. Just as I did for the Schlepper cotton bumpers in my LWS video.

[@AdrianBowerProject]

Many thanks Harry!! I'll give that a go with the sails when I get to the rigging part. Looking forward to your next video.

[@vonholdinghausen6886]

Looking great :) I love it when you build ships

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Thanks. I really love building ships too...

[@brakenca]

Love the wood grain effects you have achieved. Was wondering if stretched sprue would have worked with the windows. With the metal rods you had to deal with CA glue, which I seem to have more trouble with, never seems to be strait after glueing.

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Stretched sprue would have been a solution, but I’ve never managed to do it without setting fire to the plastic. I use slow setting Zap CA gel which gives me a few seconds to position the brass before it goes off. I might have also been able to cut very thin strips of styrene from card.

[@plasticmonkey5594]

Great vid harry

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Thanks matey.. more to come soon.

[@thomasmcelroy3637]

hi harry.blinding well done.makes me want to build a ship now.any ideas for a ship virgin ?

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Buy some floaties and learn to swim.... but seriously, just start with something small that interests you, if you enjoy it, go bigger!

[@thomasmcelroy3637]

@@HarryHoudiniModels cheers mate.will go looking tomorrow.i fancy a viking longship.thanks for getting backto me

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Look for the Aoshima one... not expensive but the same size as that Greek Warship in my opening titles. Those kits are great little builds, with not much rigging to stress you out.

[@thomasmcelroy3637]

@@HarryHoudiniModels thanks harry for you advice and taking the time to reply to me.i will get onto it this morning.again a big thankyou.cheers tom

[@richardlott8349]

I have 3 kits of this model, two from the 1950s and one from about 10 years ago. What I noticed is that the window bays are on the hulls of the 1950s kit but like yours the newer kit has the window bays separate from the hull. I wonder why they made this change?

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

As far as the Revell kit goes, they used the same Bounty hull shape for the Beagle and Endeavour. Although all three ships were different sizes, they simply changed the scale to match. That way they saved doing any extra design and creation of moulds. It was far easier and cheaper to just mould a few add on parts, unique to each ship, even if they didn’t fit well.

[@johnmaddox7432]

Better and better Harry! By the way where did you get the drawings from? Also what is nail tape? Don't know if I heard you correctly.

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Thanks John.. yes it’s nail decorating tape. Very thin and adhesive. Great for adding lines to models. I used it on the Varyag to make hull plate lines. I’ve used it on a Zeppelin to get the scallop lines on the body to show. Available on ebay.

[@roysolis2324]

Excelente tutorial.Saludos desde Panamá

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Thank you Roy

[@Emergency785]

Hi there Harry! Loving your HMS Bounty! Eagerly following. BTW, where did you get those drawings? I have many doubts concerning this ship and all the plans I have are somewhat controversial, to say the least. I don't mean in small details but in important features. One of the most obvious are the carvings on the stern board. I have at least three different ones... Which is the right one? Was it changed during Bounty's operational life? I would like to have as much reliable information as possible before I start my wooden scratch build. I've always been a great fan of HMS Bounty. Thanks in advance for any answer. Keep up the good work and CONGRATS!

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

The reason so many people get confused is there was first a Bounty used for a 1932 film which was just whatever sailing ship they could get hold of at the time. Then in 1962 an American HMS Bounty was made for the Hollywood film but bears no true resemblance to the actual ship and HMS was never the real Bounty’s designation. Yet so many people have seen and walked the HMS Bounty so they think that was the historical ship. It was not. The Hollywood ship was made twice the size of the real Bounty so they could get the bulky cameras of the time aboard. That one sank in 2012 during a hurricane. The second replica HMAV Bounty made in New Zealand in 1979 and was used for the 1984 movie with Mel Gibson and is much more accurate. This final replica was also used in Australia's Bi-Centenary. It was moored in Sydney harbour until 2007 when it was sold to Hong Kong but it’s current fate is unknown. The book I have used is the most trustworthy one on the subject, using original drawings of the Pandora, the ship the Royal Navy bought and renamed the HMAV (Her Majesties Armed Vessel) or HMAT (Her Majesties Armed Transport) Bounty. It’s called The Armed Transport Bounty by John McKay. Now in second edition.

[@Shellback13202]

Hey Harry! Was trying to add the scrollwork for the transom and I was able to make them, but when I went to paint them they turned to mush. Is there a way to prevent this? Maybe coat it in super glue?

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

What kind of paint did you use? How did you apply it? Did you prime them? I used PVA white wood glue on my scrolls then waited a day until it had cured before adding to the model also with PVA, then waited another day before I carefully brushed Stynylrez, an acrylic polyurethane primer, on them. Top coat was Lifecolor, a water based acrylic.

[@Shellback13202]

@@HarryHoudiniModels I was using Tamiya acrylic, applied with a brush. I did it pretty much immediately so maybe that is where I went wrong, and I did not prime them. Thanks for the process.

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Yes, Tamiya in a butanol based acrylic so if you had not let the PVA set and cure then that alcohol from the Tamiya paint would turn things to mush. Once the PVA is dry you should be fine as long as you don’t soak the Tamiya Paint on. Just gentle dabs with no thinner. PVA becomes pretty much water and alcohol resistant once cured. The only thing that will dissolve it then is Acetone.

[@nikolayalabanco6539]

There is no way to get colorlife lwp 19 liquid pigment these days at my place? Would you please tell is there any alternative for that?

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

www.frontlinehobbies.com.au/lifecolour-liquid-pigments-hulls-and-wooden-decks www.astromodelstore.com/brand/lifecolor/liquid-pigments www.megahobby.com/products/hulls-wooden-decks-ship-weathering-liquid-pigments-set-6-22ml-bottles-lifecolor.html Available online worldwide.

[@nikolayalabanco6539]

@@HarryHoudiniModels Thank you. Since this is the first time I ever heard of liquid pigments I wanna ask you is it different from usual washes like AK Wash for wood effects? Does it add any additional grain texture apart from adding shades like wash? Right now I don't see the difference as I've never tried liquid pigments but from what I can see on the video the effect really close to what I got when I tried Citadel filters

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

I haven’t used Citadel Filters or AK wash, but the Lifecolor Liquid pigments give a very different and malleable effect that I had not experienced before. Plus unlike other acrylic water based washes they can be wiped clean, even after drying. In the other videos I show the effects you can achieve with them. Maybe you can do that with Citadel or AK, I don’t know.

[@nikolayalabanco6539]

What are those videos are you referring to?

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Lifecolor have their own: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJqWoHRvrbqarrc

[@paulcorrigan649]

what's nail tape?

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Just as it sounds… tape the ladies put on their nails to make em look pretty. It is very thin and self adhesive, plus inexpensive. Very useful for scale modelling.

[@paulcorrigan649]

@@HarryHoudiniModels thanks Harry. That's a top tip. I've spent years arsing around making planking for small boats. Top work 👏

[@banyesz85]

Hey Harry! Thanks for the video! I got this LP Wooden Deck Shadower, and it is really amazing! However the upper deck is still a bit mistery for me. You used the upper (orange) layers of the LP Wooden Deck Shadower, then you washed with the LP Dried Salt, created the uneven shade of planks with the Light Rust just like for Zveda Varyag in your other video (kzbin.info/www/bejne/aKjOqJ2fpdB7oKs), and finally the enamel wash with Kursk Soil. Am I right?

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

I would have to rewatch my own video... but yes something like that.. it’s always more of an inexact science where I go by feel and try to achieve the look I want for a specific project.