Review: Hasselblad H6D 100c HTS 1.5 tilt/shift adapter 100 Megapixel medium format camera

[@69tubeB]

Till now this is the best video with the explanation of the Hasselblad Tilt-Shift adapter. Its usage with example. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.

[@KeithCooper]

Glad it was helpful!

[@oscarb.3631]

Thanks for the insights into the H6D and HTS, it's a rare bit of kit with out much coverage out there. The adapter is a brilliant invention, I wish other brands had a similar option! If one is willing to sacrifice half the megapixels and to deal with tech a decade old, there is quite a healthy market for used Hasselblad H cameras from previous generations. Some can even be had for about the same prices as a new mirrorless.

[@KeithCooper]

Thanks - I noticed that there was very little about it when I first tried it on the H6D 50C The video is also somewhat aimed at users of tilt/shift lenses on 35mm format wondering about larger sensors ;-)

[@AMGOSUK]

Another great vid -- Since last week I am using the HTS 1.5 on my much cheaper (than the H6D-100C) X2D-100C via either the XH adapter and XH converter 0.8 -- my primary lense for external shots is the HC 4.5/24mm, which becomes a 36mm when attached to the HTS 1.5, which is why use of the 0.8 converter is useful -- reducing the magnification from the HTS 1.5 to "only 1.2x". Since the X2D-100C is small medium format (44x33) not the 645 sized sensor there is a crop factor/equivalency effect. I have little doubt my maths is wrong -- but in 35mm eq - the 24mm lens on the X2D-100C as a native focal length of 24.3mm and equivalent 35mm FL of 18mm, which after attaching to the HTS and 0.8 converter "becomes" 22mm EQ (21.6mm). Perfectly adequate for architectural and landscape. -- What I am challenged by (and am waiting for your book to arrive) is how to calculate the correct tilt settings when shooting the above settings with the lens focussed at the hyperfocal distance to teterming just how close I can place a foreground subject and have it in focus when shooting with the camera 1.4m high - you warned us to not use iPhone apps and I agree. My guess is 1-2 degree down should work fine -- but I am waiting for a sunny day to find out -- I will be testing/trying the lens with the HCD 3.5/50-II and HCD 2.2/100 and various extension tubes/rings AND the H macro converter.

[@KeithCooper]

Thanks The book specifically does not take this approach to setting tilt - the only thing you need to know for placing the plane of focus is the actual focal length (i.e. lens FL times HTS 1.5) and irrespective of any additional multipliers placed between HTS and camera - these just change FOV. Sensor size and 'equivalent' focal lengths have no relevance to setting tilt There is also the problem that the whole 'hyperfocal' thing simply doesn't work - changing focus on a tilted lens rotates the plane of focus around the 'hinge line'. Essentially, for shorter [wider] lenses, tilt frequently becomes more trouble than it's worth, unless you want to place the plane of focus along a specific plane [wall/ceiling etc.] Remember, that plane is a wedge, so very thin nearest the camera. It's a nice idea to use tilt, but so few real subjects fit it. I'm still looking for a non-contrived photo setup [for landscape] where I can show a clear advantage of tilt, in a video...

[@amaitra]

Great video as always!

[@KeithCooper]

Thanks again!

[@tamasnemeth2161]

I had to check the date of the video first. I believe the 100c is almost 6 years old, came out soon after the Phase One IQ3 100, which was right about the same time I started to work for Phase One. I think the tilt/shift adapter is just a gimmick. First of all, shifting the lens will cause parallax when stitching the images, which may be a problem for interiors, where near subject may appear on the image. If someone is invested into this level of equipment to earn money, one can get much further by using a tool geared more towards the tilt/shift needs by investing a bit more. With a modular system like this it is a lot better to use an actual view camera with proper lenses (Rodenstock has really nice wide lenses, for example the 23mm or 32mm Digarons) than trying to solve with an unnecessary mirror box stuffed between the lens and the sensor. One good example I have used a couple of times is the Cambo Actus DB, but Arca Swiss has similar option. Of course that means that there is no exif information regarding to the shift/tilt, but a proper LCC shot can solve most of the issues. If one really needs those information embedded in the exif, one could use a Phase One XT though with one caveat: tilt is only available through a special Cambo tilt adapter at the moment of writing this comment.

[@KeithCooper]

Yes, not super recent, but I wanted to show some more aspects of tilt/shift use (the HTS and 50C are included in my tilt/shift book). It's also not a bit of kit many get a chance to look at and is even more rarely covered in articles. I wasn't doing the videos when I had the 50C here. I think describing it as a gimmick is a trifle unfair - for outdoor use images stitch perfectly well. I know the problem you mention - In my own work it's addressed (if needed) with Canon TS-E 17/24/50 lenses with a mount for the lens (Rogeti TSE frame) - or you can shift the camera opposite, and keep the lens in the same place. Now, I'd absolutely love to cover more of the sort of kit you describe... but until I can find someone to lend it to me, that's not going to happen. Of course if, you've any suggestions (I'm in the UK), please do let me know? (via the Northlight Images site)

[@andyvan5692]

capture one can also do these t/s corrections, as the Phase One XT camera also transmits this shift data to the camera back.

[@KeithCooper]

Maybe it can - There are only a few such camera systems I get to try out ;-) What back/body/lens combination are you referring to which has tilt/shift?

[@andyvan5692]

@@KeithCooper the XT is akin to the Alpha TS camera, the shift, tilt are in the magnesium body shell itself, you physically move the lens mount flange of the body (or in truth, the back sensor moves laterally, the lens tilts) and these motions are caught by electrical encoders, so any lens issues can be corrected automatically, or the frame cropped to remove the vignetting).

[@KeithCooper]

@@andyvan5692 Sounds great - I just need someone to lend me the stuff to test ;-)

[@julioestebanperezescudero6246]

Thanks for sharing, now I have a better understanding of the system and the capabilities.🙏👍

[@KeithCooper]

Thanks - (and to HB for lending it to me)

[@davecarrera]

AT £30k+ your video is the closest I am going to get to one Keith :-)

[@KeithCooper]

Me too I'm afraid! ;-)

[@nelsonclub7722]

I have this set up. As a commercial photographer it is about as close as you can get to a monorail 5x4 - although I still use that too as the Hass is quite limited in its full capability of movements - also consider using a 907x back on a Hass Arc body as its surprisingly sophisticated with the Rodenstocks - and dead easy to carry and use - the Flex body is a bit more complex - but still works brilliantly

[@KeithCooper]

Thanks - unfortunately this lot went back after testing. We simply do not have the sort of work which would [financially] justify its use, from a business standpoint :-( Still fun to try out though!

[@ddsdss256]

Thanks for the extensive look into this. Have you used Perspective Efex Pro (Nik Collection 3 and above)? I'm wondering if a T&S lens (or the Hasselblad adapter and requisite body/backs/lenses/investment, or of course a view camera) is really necessary any more. DxO PhotoLab applies basic lens corrections while PEP does a great job of "un-keystoning" images (of course, you do lose something in the crop and need to account for that when composing the image) and correcting for other types of wide-angle distortion. I've been quite happy with the results but it would be interesting to compare the relative effectiveness of the different approaches viewing identically-sized prints. I'd look into that but my wife wouldn't be too keen on a six-figure expenditure to fund the project... ;). BtW, I know it's not the same in every regard, but my extremely portable Lumix G9 can use pixel-shift like the H6D 400D's Multi-Shot mode to produce high-res images (up to a "mere" 80MP--tripod and relatively static subject recommended) but I only use that very rarely, as 20MP (G9, Canon 1D X iii, Nikon D6) is more than enough to produce very high-quality large prints in almost all situations. Just because we have the overkill capacity doesn't mean it gives us any real-world advantage when it comes to producing art (although maybe there are commercial or scientific applications where an H6D or Phase One is warranted). Again, I'd like to see a print comparison to test the validity of that statement.

[@KeithCooper]

Thanks for the comment! I've used perspective efex and its predecessor DxO viewpoint for years - I've multiple reviews and articles about this and other aspects. Start here www.northlight-images.co.uk/review-nik-perspective-efex/ This is the sort of stuff I tend not to cover so much in videos. I will look at doing some support videos, but basically all the useful stuff will continue to be written ;-) Basically, no, if you want correction for convergence, a lens is still the best way - the wider the angle lens, the less predictable the crop is: www.northlight-images.co.uk/fixing-converging-verticals-without-a-shift-lens/ For me the real benefit of a shift lens is that the framing I see in the viewfinder is what I have to work with. This makes a big difference on an architectural job where having to 'fix' 40-50 50MP images would be a pain - especially when using wider lenses. Also I get the option to do a simple up/down stitch and get ~80MP images Now, how much this all matters is a personal thing. Of course, one area where software simply won't work is tilt... I'm inclined to say that there are so many variables, that any print comparison might be of debatable relevance if you attempted to draw any general conclusions. Now that's not to say that such experiments are not worth doing, just to be careful before drawing too many conclusions ;-) Next time I get a big printer to review I'll be addressing some issues of detail in prints - some of my H6D images may well feature...

[@ddsdss256]

@@KeithCooper Thanks, Keith, for the detailed response. I read your article and see your points, especially if a lot of images are involved. In my case, the only standard is "making it look right to me" as I'm just trying to make art, so in some cases, I let the exaggerated perspective work for me (letting the "verticals" converge to support the geometry of the composition). Also, when I try to straighten things out, I may pull the correction back slightly, as lining up with the grid sometimes looks wrong--as if the building's expanding as it rises. I generally want it to look "natural." I only wish that Perspective Efex worked within PhotoLab (as does Viewpoint). That said, there are times when I wish I had a tilt/shift lens or a view camera, but those situations don't occur often enough to justify the significant expense and hassle (travelling light is key to getting many of my images)!

[@Jakub_Pyrdek_Photography]

hey Keith. I would like to buy the HTS but I have a problem, I use my H5D-50c with a panorama kit. I'm afraid that the knobs from the HTS protrude too much from the body and will rub against the rail. Could you tell me what is the size from the side of the body? Thanks

[@KeithCooper]

Sorry - it was a loaner from Hasselblad See the written article covering my earlier look with the 50C - it might have some images which help www.northlight-images.co.uk/hasselblad-h6d-50c-and-hts-adapter/

[@Jakub_Pyrdek_Photography]

@@KeithCooper Thank you.

[@irfanomer5331]

Sir I gave two bodies of h6d100c would you be interested to buy one?

[@KeithCooper]

Not unless you have a winning lottery ticket to go along with it... :-)

[@thomaseriksson6256]

Phase One have a new TS lens

[@KeithCooper]

Yes, TS lens mount and a lens IIRC? If anyone can get them to send one, on loan, (along with a camera) then I'll do a review. Otherwise it remains a curiosity for people with deep pockets...

[@thomaseriksson6256]

@@KeithCooper You need to photograph bank vaults from the inside to be able to afford it

[@jean-claudemuller3199]

The optical system of the HTS is also engineered to enhance the image circle size by it's multiplication factor. Having a lower HTS multiplication factor would also get a smaller image circle and less movement possibilities. Unfortunately Ultra wide lenses HCD 24 and HCD 28 have a reduced image circle for medium format digital sensors compared to longer HC lenses series (without D) covering full frame medium format, So shift possibilities with these two D lenses are limited even with the HTS enhanced image circle. Huge tilt and shift images require longer non D lenses.

[@KeithCooper]

Thanks for mentioning some of the design constraints the designer were working under - it's why I only wondered if the magnification could be dropped a bit. I've got to do an update to the [written] HTS article to cover this in more detail, since I can include a lot more about optics and usage than fits well into a YT 'overview'

[@jean-claudemuller3199]

Thanks Keith The HTS works also with Hasselblad X System cameras via XH adapter or optical converter but these cameras don't record tilt shift datas so lenses have to be corrected manually. XH optical converter reduces the focal length by x0.8 giving a HTS resulting focal length of x1.2 (instead x1.5 with adapter) So the HCD24 converted on X system gives an HTS focal length of 29mm (36mm with adapter), the converted HCD28 becomes a HTS 34mm (42mm with adapter). The optical XH converter enhances sharpness (it shrinks the details) and boosts aperture of H lenses.

[@KeithCooper]

@@jean-claudemuller3199 Thanks - something to add to my experiments next time I get some kit to experiment with.

[@jean-claudemuller3199]

The original optical design idea came from Zeiss with their "PC Mutar 1.4x" for the Hasselblad V-System, an only shift 1.4x extender for the Zeiss V-System lenses. The HTS as an evolution of it, to the Hasselblad H-System and designed by Hasselblad

[@KeithCooper]

@@jean-claudemuller3199 Thanks for that. I'm always curious about the history behind such devices.

[@hamshanksproductions7161]

I've the Fuji gfx 50r. The quality is outstanding, however my Canon 6D isn't far behind and a lot easier to carry around. I sometimes think about selling the 50r but can't. I'll never buy the hassleblad. I think I'm trying to say that full frame is so good and likely good enough for most things. Still think there's too much reliance on low ISO for best results. Therefore instead of sensors that focus on an eye at 146 times a second etc, why not low ISO performance at 5000 iso or above? And maybe get that quality from smaller sensors? Not for a while I think. Thanks for the review Keith.

[@KeithCooper]

Glad it was of interest. Even if I was given the kit to keep, it wouldn't replace my 5Ds for a fair bit of my work. Mainly where I simply need a wider angle view and tilt/shift The 28mm used here, without the HTS unit gives a field of view broadly similar to my TS-E17 (un-shifted). With the HTS I'm getting ~27mm with similar relative shift as my TS-E24 gives on the 5Ds Of course - were I to have one I'm sure it would get plenty of use ;-)

[@hamshanksproductions7161]

@@KeithCooper Don't get me wrong Keith. I'd love to have one. Did you say if I mentioned your name to Hassleblad, they'd give me one for free. Or have I got that wrong?? ;)

[@KeithCooper]

Yes, it will be delivered just after mine turns up...

[@jean-claudemuller3199]

I use 2 digital X System Hasselblad's also high end Nikon and Leica full frames. Yes FF is not far away from MF but MF images have for me a more natural mood and always require less and often quite no post treatment were FF files require more post to get the maximum out of them. Even if numbers such as dynamic range are quite similar between high end FF and MF, I feel MF images as more pleasing

[@KeithCooper]

Ah, then you have vastly more money than I do to experiment/work with... ;-) :-) However I definitely need to do more testing of this when I next have a large printer here to test - There are differences, but I need to look more carefully at how real I feel they are in different contexts.

[@irfanomer5331]

28mm lens on Hasselblad H6d 100c would be 18.5 mm

[@KeithCooper]

Of course - but don't forget the HTS 1.5x