Review of E3D Nozzle X, Copper Heater Block, and Titanium Heat Break

[@davidbradshaw1004]

Right at 34:05, when you’re talking about the burnt crud on the white PETG - From my experience, that tends to happen w/that material a lot. But I have definitely noticed it more when I use white PETG. Because it turns very dark brown, and is usually adhered to some strange part of the print. I think your reasoning is sound… That it fell off the nozzle at some point, but it is brown because it burned up at the nozzle before it fell. I’ve seen that with every color of PETG, which I print a LOT, because the white turns dark brown but the other colors aren’t as dark when they burn. PETG sticks to everything on this planet known to man, but most especially itself, which is why it’s so GREAT to print with. It’s also the very reason it’s so TERRIBLE to print with :). Also, love the Prusa. Finally got a MK3S and have hardly used my other 3 printers since then...

[@rexsolomon6325]

The only reason to buy copper nozzles, nozzle x and titanium heatbreaks is for printing high temperature filament like polycarbonate (Lexan) or PEEK (nozzle x for nylon specific). If you are just printing in PLA, ABS and PETG, don't waste money on these - your print quality will not improve. Note: if you want to print high temp filaments, you also need an enclosure and a water cooled (not the e3d aluminium finned, aircooled) heatbreak. See E3D's temperature limit documents for each product they sell to see exactly why.

[@BeefIngot]

There is another reason to buy these though. Never having your nozzles wear down for the hard ones, and printing a whoooole lot of material in a very short time period for the copper one.

[@WinCoder32]

Copper also softer than Al. Got one heatblock from Aliexpress, Trianglelabs. After several nozzle swaps titanium heatbreak ate copper thread. Probably coz Trianglelab's Ti heatbreaks are crazy sharp. Be careful with your Cu heatblocks!

[@LightTribe88]

Copper is harder tha non-alloy aluminum.

[@michaels3003]

@@LightTribe88 , nobody uses raw aluminum...

[@LightTribe88]

Those bumpy things are likely from too high temps. Your temps may not be the same with a copper block and different nozzle give the difference in thermal conductivity. The new setup will loose less heat from heating filament than the original setup.

[@KiR_3d]

Is your Ti Heat Break "all-metal"? I'm going to buy one. Printing PETG mostly. Will be printing nylon probably but not sure. My current setup is bad. Constant underextrusions when too much retracts over one layer. I suspect it's a heat creep. The setup is bowden, retraction values are: 2.6mm with 25mm/s. Previously I've used from 4.5 to 6.5 and the results were much worse.

[@markuswittmann9335]

On 18.22 You have 2 Tools for PTFE Tube. Wich Links on Thingiverse is it? Thanks

[@macombiam]

are you still on this setup? how has it been? planning on getting same spares and upgrades as well. Any chance you can provide links to what you ordered? Im planning to buy spares/upgrades for my MK3S+ thanks. 9:00

[@lio1234234]

Same here dude. Not sure if he'll reply though...

[@macombiam]

@@lio1234234 wont lose sleep if he doesn't i managed on my own. thanks.

[@MrMetaloholic]

Personally i think the nozzleX is ok but its super frustrating the fact for some reson the nozzle x creates debree on prints. Bumps and snot here and there. Its propably because the Filament doesnt stick that good onto the nozzle itself the other options is the ovious, it drops on the print

[@agentduke2]

Let me ask this... With the the decreased thermal conductivity of the titanium heat break, wouldn't that very aspect be offset by heat dissipation through the heat sink? In my experience it does, but not linearly - hotter temps are worse. In other words, you're reducing the amount of heat coming from the hot end, but you're also reducing the cooling at the heat sink by the same amount... I tried one once, and it worked much better at lower temps than hotter temps (I suspect for the reasons above - but I can't be certain). I suspect that the hotter the nozzle was, the greater the benefit that was realized from the heat sink than from reduced heat creep due to titanium.... But since titanium is only recommended above 260 anyway, you should only use it if your cooling setup is not idea to begin with.... But that was just my experience...

[@m_key6955]

Can u post the thingiverse links for the PTFE cut models pls

[@putimir]

Probably this one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3121653

[@chloemcholoe3280]

hey i want a long lasting nozzle so I'm thinking of nozzle x. but I have a hypecube and I print very fast a lot of the time (up to 300mm/s!) and i am really worried the nozzle x is going to slow me down. or not let me print fast. how was your experiance regarding the temps. and speed?

[@robinjitsingh3733]

Up to 300mm/sec??😂😂😂 are you. Serious?m you lied

[@MrMetaloholic]

I think the problem with the "non stick" of the nozzle x is that it creates gunk as it doesnt stick so good to the nozzle it drops on the print and it´s actually worse than it would stick on the nozzle. personally im not that impressed on the performance of my nozzleX

[@DasJev]

so is the nozzle x worth it?

[@smbakeryt]

So far I am happy. I've had more positive experiences regarding PETG cleanup, which I seem to be able to do with a quick wipe with a paper towel while the nozzle is hot. As to how it holds up with abrasives, time will tell. My next project is to print some carbon fiber PC with it.

[@GGtheRealest]

@@smbakeryt and how'd it go? I bought nozzle x yesterday specifically to print carbon fiber

[@rikdenbreejen5230]

Petf is nasty like that, it doesnt work well with brass and loves to stick to it. But we cant judge the nozzle on how easy it is to remove remnant plastic, you are just supposed to wipe it off after you heat it up.

[@DmitryFedotov]

Looks like old setup was better...

[@SooMSooM.7460]

heared ounces.. disliked..