Rewire an Electrical Switch box with No Neutral

[@fixitwithzim]

ALL: I've posted another video on my channel showing how I installed the extra wire in the wall that others have asked about below. Check it out here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fn6oZpSjp756a6M

[@waltermackin5284]

Excellent! Clear, concise, no half hour story of your life.

[@zgsq127]

Finally, a video that explained what I was doing wrong and how to fix it. I was trying to install a light fixture off of an existing switch, similar to your video, however, I had no idea that the switch had no neutral wire. After viewing your video, I went back into my garage and looked at the light that the switch currently feeds. Sure enough, it was an electrical outlet and the current light was nothing more than a light fixture plugged into the outlet. With this new knowledge and with some of the comments below, I'll take this information and try again. Thank you for the well done video.

[@fixitwithzim]

Gabriel Sorry for the delayed response but thanks for the comment. Hope the job went well!

[@WiseInetellect]

Beautiful video all the way through. I greatly appreciate the time you took to make this. I don't know how many days of my life you've given back to me by making this video

[@allens4866]

Very well explained and visually documented. I have been looking for this exact information to allow me to install smart light switches that require a neutral. I have looked at many videos and other websites for this information and nothing was as clear as this. Thank you

[@sandyma6974]

Hi Allen, I am try to install a smart switch that requires a neutral as well. My current switch only have one black and white attached. So I want to know if you have any success installing the smart switch? Thanks.

[@marcwetherbee6423]

Dude! Finally a great video on how to modify a switch loop. Thank you so much. I need to do this with three of the rooms in my 60's rancher that had no center ceiling lights and have been looking for a good instructional all week. You are the best!!

[@thomaskwan1572]

This is one of the best educational videos on how to find a neutral wire and basic wiring skills

[@simplytrueyou9202]

I've only watched the first five minutes of your video but you have already shown what I need to know so I can wire a setup to control some plug in shop lights in my pole barn. There was no way to hardwire these ones in without doing a really ugly job of it so I am doing the switch outlet approach. Every other video so far has no closeups that are good, no proper explanations, but yours is spot on. And I will make sure to mark the white wire with electrical tape. Thanks.

[@fixitwithzim]

Good to hear, glad the video helped!

[@coypatton3160]

As a point of ease to be code approved in new runs from your panel to your switch box to what you want controlled by your switch. This keeps it neat and simple.

[@kiiro0512]

Thank you so much for this! I know it’s an old video, but I watched so many videos trying to trouble shoot why I couldn’t get the connections quite right for a new ceiling light and this was my exact wiring configuration! Thank thank thank you!

[@SixTwoHemi]

Good stuff. I’m a chief engineer for a management company and these type of videos are great training tools. My only critique is designating the difference between single pole switches vs three way and four ways. If you mentioned this my apologies but I didn’t hear anything about that because the DIY guy will just grab whatever he sees and it will be wrong. Nevertheless thanks for sharing I just subbed.

[@Dougiemort]

Best I've seen, and I've watched a bunch of these vids. Explanation was fast, succinct, informative and fascinating. There is a name for people like you: Teacher.

[@fixitwithzim]

Thank you buddy, appreciate it.

[@rodgerrabbit2955]

Great job.... If it were me doing the job, I would have utilized acgreen wire nut. I also would have changed out the receptacle and single pole switch with better quality devices. They had to be old. You went through all that work, just update the devices to safer, better quality.....

[@rudymans.1858]

Thanks man. My house was old and had no neutral wire at the outlet switch. This is smart. Thank u. Im installing wifi dimmer switch.

[@fixitwithzim]

Thank you!!

[@davidd5269]

Well done sir. This was exactly the video I needed. Going to tackle this project tomorrow. Hoping all goes well.

[@jeffperra]

Just what I was looking for. Been meaning to install some ceiling lighting in my kids' bedrooms, and came across this exact issue and wiring scheme. Thanks for your clear explanation and instructions.

[@mykec187]

Had the identical issue with my light switch. Was just going to tie into a circuit from the attic, drop it down and then back up to the light I'll be adding. Then after watching your video duh, go into the power outlet and put that neutral back on to an actual neutral wire, problem solved thank you so much

[@fixitwithzim]

Yeah, i had that moment too a couple times before I thought of what I showed in the video. Glad you got it figured out!

[@chrismiller100]

Very helpful video. Nearly my entire house was wired so that switches controlled outlets, because the only build-in lights were in the kitchen & bathroom. All other rooms relied a lamp to be plugged in. Not only do I want to install lights and such in the ceiling, but I want to use smart switches to be controlled by my Amazon Echoes. Those smart switches require a neutral wire present. The only thing I'll need to do different from what was in this video is to make a pigtail from the neutral wire grouping to connect to the smart switch.

[@fixitwithzim]

Yes, I’ve found this video has done well due to the popularity of smart switches the past year or 2. Thanks for the comment!

[@michaelellingson1269]

Great video. My set up is very similar to yours. Light switch box had a hot white wire along with a hot black wire that controlled a single outlet on my wall. I ran new wire Romex for a ceiling fan down to the switch box. Black, red, white and ground. In switch box I have the power (white and black) tied into a pig tail leading into the switch. Loading out of the switch box is a pigtail that is tied to the fan light (black and red) running to the fan. The neutral wire in the new wire pulled has nothing to connect to so I believe the circuit cannot be completed. The power to the outlet however has been completed and is no longer reliant on the switch being flipped up to get power. The difference I have is in my electrical outlet that was being controlled by the switch. I have on the gold side of the outlet a black and a red wire that are hot and two white wires that are not hot. There are no extra white wires that have been pig tailed in the outlet box so I’m not sure how to get my neutral wire in the switch box to not have power anymore. Any ideas?

[@Digital-Dan]

Hard part is the magical step that led to the new Romex appearing in the box, without damaging the wall. Everything else was obvious. I was hoping for some guidance in threading the new cable through the wall, sigh.

[@fixitwithzim]

Dan Swinehart sorry for the delayed response, I shot a video of the light install and never posted it, maybe I will because this question is coming up frequently. I cut a small hole in the wall near the ceiling. I then removed the existing switch and fed a fish tape through the spare hole in the top of the junction box up to the hole I cut in the wall. This is the least obtrusive way of doing this with minimal damage. Hope this helps you.

[@jedrokth]

Fishing tape and a roller plate (it's a thing the shape of a single switch you can mount to the box, with metal roller wheels to prevent the cord from damaging the surrounding wall as you pull it through)

[@fixitwithzim]

jedrokth yup, that’s the way to do it. I just posted a new video on my channel related to this.

[@xxvodanhxx]

Damn I said the exact same thing before seeing your comment lmao

[@RichBStine]

Excellent video that helped me with a ceiling fan install on a wall switch with no neutral. Same wiring setup as yours. Thank you.

[@fixitwithzim]

That's great to hear. Thanks for the comment!

[@PaxR-r2s]

Good video, but no one would think that switch wire is a neutral, even a novice .

[@chrisdeister7745]

Wow. Thank you for doing this. Super clear explanation.

[@fixitwithzim]

You’re welcome...Glad you liked the video!

[@ryalman21]

Great video. I wonder how many people blow themselves up each year trying to wire in switches when they have no clue what they are doing? Be CAREFUL guys, especially if you live in Europe or the UK, where the wires are Brown, Blue, and yellow and green :-) or Red, Black and Green if you're old school. We have 240 volts in the UK and it can KILL !!!

[@fixitwithzim]

Thats why I mention "do this work at your own risk" and to hire an electrician if need be. People have their limitations, and its one of the reasons why I wouldn't hop in a cockpit and try to fly a plane . Thanks for the comment.

[@Fromctoz]

Great video but not sure it will work with my set up. My outlet doesn’t have the hot wires that are capped off in your video. Instead only has the load wire and neutral wires. How do I get power back to the outlet if the load wire is turned into a neutral?

[@Casper-sb7gm]

Just what I needed! Awesome video

[@fixitwithzim]

Thank you!!

[@jimross2101]

Gr8 video! The only improvement I could suggest is a schematic or line drawing of what you were going to do so it is easier to visualize.

[@PepsiManX360]

Great *

[@atahmas]

Excellent, thank you. This was so clear and to the point. Your online contribution is much appreciated.

[@menswearhous]

If I have 1 black/white/red wire going to a one way switch is my white not a neutral?

[@nonaimbotpro4870]

This looks fun, I’m about to try this I must have neutral wire for my WiFi switches!!!!✊💯🔥👌👀

[@brianptighe]

Certain Lutron Caseta smart switches do not need a neutral wire - though you do need the Caseta hub.

[@jesusesparza9286]

Thank for the video. Just what I needed to find out. What if both wires are black?

[@SCraigHufford]

@fixitwitzim - Is there a similar way to install standard smart three-way switches in a box where the electrician used the neutral from the breaker box as a traveler? I have a three-way switch with the Neutrals in the box, but this is the load switch (shorts the circuit, when I connect the Neutral wire to the switch), and the line switch uses the Neutral wire as one of the Travelers! The line switch is configured in a two-gang box with another three-way switch (I would like to replace that one, too). Can I pig-tail the Line (or Neutral) wire from the adjacent switch to the Neutral for the smart switch? Thanks.

[@ChaseWulff]

So, only switches have the potential to not have a neutral? But outlets will always have a neutral?

[@ashishmhetar8672]

I have a Smart switch with Neutral wire option, but I dont have neutral wire in my Electrical system at Home. How do I connect my Switch in this case?

[@jveralinares]

Finally a video regarding this issue well explained

[@fastfix50]

I have similar issue. My switch control small bathroom fan. The power source come into the fan first. The switch has only 1 romex 14/2 come into the box. I have a bare copper ground connect to the switch, a back wire constant power supply connect to brass screw and a white (not neutral) connect to other brass screw on the switch to return the power back to the fan. Now, I like to add an outlet right below the switch but I dont have a neutral wire. What is the best way resolve this issue? Thanks in advance Zim

[@Jerry-pi2fe]

How did you know that the blue wire was supposed to be connected to the bare ground wire?

[@Savekey]

We can generate a neutral wire by No neutral wire power supply kit from savekey.

[@TimYorty]

how did you get the new white wire going to the ceiling light in place? That's the hard part that I don't understand how to do.

[@fixitwithzim]

Tim Yorty I shot a video of the light install and never posted it, maybe I will because this question is coming up frequently. I cut a small hole in the wall near the ceiling. I then removed the existing switch and fed a fish tape through the spare hole in the top of the junction box up to the hole I cut in the wall. This is the least obtrusive way of doing this with minimal damage. Hope this helps you.

[@CitadelRunner]

My favorite part is where the new romex cable magically shows up inside the switch box. Where can I purchase the magic wand to do that?

[@fixitwithzim]

Watch the other video on my channel showing how it was installed...best part, it’s free!

[@doshiebond1214]

You helped me extremely I was lost but now I'm found

[@fixitwithzim]

Good stuff!

[@scrippslarry]

Excellent video! So we’ll explained! Thank you!

[@sdatta2452]

does the outlet turns on when the dimmer switch on or does outlet stay on all the time?

[@shorefire3747]

Excellent instructions on this problem that I just came upon today, I do have one question if the switch works more than just one outlet like in a bedroom which outlet do you rewire the closest one to the switch?

[@troykress5583]

This was fantastic! Exactly the issue I’m working with. thanks for the video.

[@0blivioniox864]

This is the best way to do it... *IF* you no longer want to control the outlet via the switch. Assuming there's no other choice but to run another wire to the box if you still WANT TO control the outlet from the switch.

[@ahmedm6041]

Nice clean job! Thanks for sharing..

[@dracodragonites8747]

What type of spare wires did you use with to pigtail the hot and neutral in the outlet? If I have to buy a spare wire for that purpose, is there a range of guages that I can get from or does it have to be a particular guages or type?

[@1942nn]

I have seen someone even install an outlet with just the hot and ground from the switch box as they are very close to each other !!! Although the outlet appears to work, that's a NO NO.

[@Par3TV]

So after you add the light, the plug will not be control by the switch any more? it will have 120v all the time at the plug? I try to add smart switch but it require white neutral wire. My switch only come with 2 wire.

[@fixitwithzim]

Yes, the outlet will be powered all the time and not controlled via the switch

[@claudiacanales8584]

In MA you don’t need to identify the neutral , about a green wire nut for the ground wire, and if you are installing light fixtures you need to replace the breaker too AF

[@BaconbuttywithCheese]

Yes, it's annoying to only find a switched live conductor has been run to a wall box. Nice exlaination.

[@robertmattison1282]

NEC 2017 require a neutral now. In all new installation. This due to many electronic devices that require a neutral. Because there was no neutral inside the box, the electrician would use the ground conductor. This way the NEC made this change. 12-2-2 or 14-2-2 is now being sold. No more switch loop in new switch box installation.

[@fixitwithzim]

Robert Mattison Thanks for the info, good stuff!

[@heroesandzeros7802]

Good presentation, but one problem. When you connected the ground wires in the switch box you twisted one ground wire around the other. Electrical inspectors will be looking for the green wirenuts to be present or they will fail the inspection. The green wirenuts have a hole in the end for one ground wire to go all the way through and the other ground wire is connected inside the box.

[@troykress5583]

So, what if I’m installing a ceiling fan and the switch already has a neutral in the box? The switch controls an outlet so i need to use your method to rewire the outlet I’m assuming.

[@fancythisgirl3]

SAME. Idk if it’s any different or if it’s the same procedure!

[@TheDman2013]

So I bought a smart light switch and found out it requires a neutral wire. I only have two wires leading to my switch. Not sure if I could rewire it like you did in the plug or would I have to pull new wires to the switch and ceiling fan?

[@fixitwithzim]

Sounds like you have a switch loop like my video shows. You’ll need to add an additional wire. I have another video on my channel with some helpful tips on how to do that. Check the video description on this one for it.

[@tigerseye73]

Local codes here require green crimp sleeve on the bare copper grounding bundle. Also find it easier and neater to give the finished devise a one turn twist before placing into the box. The wires will then be neatly coiled up.

[@fixitwithzim]

Yes, here too now as well. I added it after the video was filmed

[@chriswalsh784]

Can u do the same for a ceiling fan?

[@TimYorty]

I have a bedroom with a ceiling fan and lights. The lights are controlled by a wall switch which only has 1 romex cable with black, white and ground coming into it. The back is providing power and the white appears to be the switch leg to control the lights. There is no neutral wire, just the bare ground. The fan is controlled by a pull chain at the fan. I’m guessing they spliced the hots in the fan j-box with legs to the pull chain and the wall switch box (for the lights). My question is can I disconnect the bare ground in the switch box and the fan j-box and re-wire as a neutral to be able to install a wifi switch which requires a neutral? Also do you know if the wifi switch will work without a ground and is it safe? There is no way to pull a new neutral into this box and get it to the light.

[@ezrabrooks7785]

If you crawl in the attic you can.

[@mgrignon2016]

I'd like to replace a single pole switch with a WiFi smart switch that requires a neutral. In my case the single pole switch which controls my exterior front light is located in a duplex box next to a 3-way switch for a hall ceiling light. Can I tie into a neutral wire from the 3-way without affecting either switches operation?

[@mgrignon2016]

I'll answer my own question as it hasn't been answered, I didn't provide enough info. and I have since done further investigation. I will not be tying "into a neutral wire from the 3-way" as I phrased the question. There are 4 sets of romex coming to the duplex (two gang) wall switch box. 3 have their white neutrals tied into the same wire nut, including the neutral paired with the black (hot) that goes to the bottom right screw connector on the single pole switch I want to replace. The 4th romex has a neutral that connects top left on the adjacent 3-way and not tied to the others. Both switch's power are controlled by the same breaker. (As well as the ceiling light and 3 wall receptacles in my office on the other side of the wall). Since they are all on the same main panel circuit I can easily connect the neutral wire required for my WiFi switch to the available neutrals tied together.

[@paulmauricio3600]

Straight to the point. Nice video

[@fixitwithzim]

Paul Mauricio Thank you

[@gmoya559]

I follow all the steps and I get it to work in the area I am working on, but I cause another breaker to trip! Any suggestions for a solution to that?

[@desi9722]

Question- my dining room has neutral wires and has a smart dimmer installed. RIGHT behind it on the other side of the wall there's the kitchen light switch box, but no neutral. Can I pull the dining room neutral through the back to supply neutrals for the kitchen light switch? Just add a short white colored wire between them? Thanks!

[@octoniumvideos]

I know this is a ridiculously late response but only do that if the kitchen and dining room are on the same breaker

[@jdmcknght82]

Extremely helpful, can’t thank you enough!

[@tgcrissy7327]

Thank you very much for the education

[@fixitwithzim]

You’re welcome!!

[@07Review]

Awesome video I did bought my house New on 2005 and this freaking electrician did the same thing, I don't know how did pass inspection

[@Clowe49444]

can you do this same video wiring a smart dimmer instead?????

[@fixitwithzim]

Yes, same type of idea if you need a neutral.

[@rshinn8776]

I wanted to add a receptacle off my light switch. the switch is wired like this, with only 2 hots ( one black one white) and a ground, and no neutral. how would I wire this up?would it be easier to wire the switch from the light fixture since that is where the hot is coming in? how would I do that?

[@mattschoular8844]

Tip: your wire stripper has a hole just above the stripping section to bend the J hook onto the stripped wire for the terminal. No need for the needle nose pliers for that purpose

[@blockisle9]

No need for wire strippers or needle nose. Linesman is all you need

[@suziecaudillocronin6631]

my home was built in the 1940's I am installing a bathroom ventilation fan so In the process of switching my single pole switch to a dbl gang switch I noticed that there is only one black wire and one white wire there's no wire for the power to go out?

[@fixitwithzim]

You have a switch loop or leg currently installed (same thing I showed in the beginning of the video in the switch box. There's a couple ways to fix this but the easiest would be to pull in a new wire with a neutral in it. Your box as it stands only has 1 hot coming in and a feed going to the light. The other option would be to tap off the light junction box and run from that to the fan. Only downside is that the light and fan would both be controlled with the existing switch.

[@firefly1464]

My house was built in 2017, I went to install a light, the Romex in the outlet had 4 wires, the copper wire, the white the red and the black wire. The light had 3 wires, the copper the white and the black. I connected the white to the white the black to the black and the copper to the copper and put a cap on the red because the light did not have any red wire. When i put the breaker back on the light came on but the switch cannot turn it off. I opened the switch and saw the red and black wires connected to the switch, the white wire is capped with a screw cap. Can I change the wiring at the light from the white on the fixture to the red in the Romex?

[@woodway11]

You should stop, disconnect the wires and place wire nuts over all "hot" wires and call a qualified electrician. Better yet, turn off the breaker and call a qualified electrician. Don't attempt any electrical mods if you don't know why you have four or three wires and a "copper" wire.

[@Enonymouse_]

If my GFCI socket has a neutral, can I piggy back off the neutral to the switch box? The genius contractor who did my house used 2 wire romex (2 hots and ground, no neutral) to the majority of my house. :(

[@thomasmarable6818]

You question doesn't make sense, without neutral in 120 volt circuit it will not work.

[@s4slade]

Great video! Extremely helpful. I'm looking to convert my 3-way switch setup to a smart config but I only have a neutral on one switch end. I'm trying to avoid using a bridge and still have it compatible with Alexa and Google. I know a bridge can support many devices but because of the size of the house, I am trying to avoid it if possible as well as avoid running a new wire in the wall. Any ideas?

[@alexnguyen1186]

Thank you for the video. I have the same issue with mine. I don't know much about wiring and codes so I will double check with an electrician regarding the ground screw to a plastic box? All of the receptacle and switch boxes in my house are plastics. I wonder if they're not to code since I don't see any ground screws inside. Any who, thank you though.

[@fixitwithzim]

Alex Nguyen Ground screw to a plastic j box is not necessary. You should have a ground screw however to the device (switch, outlet, light, etc). And yes, if you're not familiar with this type of work, definitely contact an electrician. Thanks for the comment!

[@DragonettiDean]

Thanks for a great explanation and clean install.

[@joshieversace]

Hello. Great great video. I’m trying to figure out how to add a neutral wire to a switch box from a light fixture. Our house in 98 years old and unfortunately does not have any neutral wires. And I cannot do your method in video because there isn’t an electrical outlet on the side of the room I’m working on. I want to install a smart switch for my kitchen and dining room. I’ve read you can add a neutral by running a wire directly from light fixture (chandelier) back to the switch box. Is this accurate? If so, do you have any videos that may cover this, or which terminal/screw on light fixture would be used for the neutral out? Thank you again for your video and your help (if possible).

[@fixitwithzim]

Sounds like you have power coming into your light fixture junction box and they ran a single piece of wire from that box to your switch box to crest a switched leg. These actually aren’t allowed in most places anymore due to the inception of smart switches and devices. Check the link in the description of this video or it might be in the pinned comment. It’s some additional tips for running new wires in existing walls. Hope this helps

[@mateoanthony08]

10:38 where did the extra while log wire come from? Did you install that separately or was that already wedged in there? Thanks

[@fixitwithzim]

kestrada670 That's the wire running up to the new recessed lighting. It was installed off video. Thanks for watching.

[@peterharper9703]

Question: would you just wire nut the cable ends if the switch was not being used until it might OR just pull the cable out if you don’t need that switch?

[@peterharper9703]

I HATE the turn power to outlet..... I need to rewire mine too. Thank You for show how to fix it.

[@bwatching]

Thank you for this video, like others I want to add a smart switch to control an old chandelier. In the switch box there is an early 2000’s Lutron dinner and only 2 wires a black and a purple. I’m assuming the black is the line and the purple is the load going to the fixture. Is it possible that the light fixture had the neutral wired directly and I can split off that connected via wire nut to run a neutral wire to the switch box?

[@jat5am]

hey, could you reply here when you found the answer? same situation here.

[@lolobotius]

Nice work with those wires

[@fixitwithzim]

Elena Gilbert thanks!

[@danielfinnegan8494]

The answer seems obvious but it doesn't look like there's really a way to add a neutral wire in the switch box, but keep the outlet being switched (not changing to a permanently installed fixture) without snaking a new wire up to the switch unfortunately. I'm trying to add a smart dimmer switch to control a plugged in lamp and have the same wiring situation as the beginning of the video.

[@fixitwithzim]

Daniel Finnegan you’ll need to add a wire. Others have asked this and I’ll be posting a video soon showing how I did that. On a side not, you should never add a dimmer to control an outlet. Too many things can go wrong if someone plugs another device into it besides the lamp you want to control. You can purchase a dimmable bulb that is controlled over wifi which might be the better option for your situation

[@danielfinnegan8494]

@@fixitwithzim thanks for the response.

[@the_first_woodwizard]

Excellent, Very clear details. Thanks

[@KevinCoop1]

Although I believe it a good practice to re-identify the white conductor used in the switch, I do not believe that it is a violation of NEC to install as in the video. Reference NEC 2017 310.110(C) This references you to 210.5(C) for branch circuits. It seems that re-identification of the conductors is required when there is more than one nominal voltage system. Residential has only 120 volts to ground, therefore re-identification is not required. As I said, I would do it if I were doing the install.

[@fixitwithzim]

Thanks for the info!

[@frederickvanpelt6393]

Good post. NOT pigtailing the neutral is a code violation and potentially harmful to equipment and a fire hazard.

[@Neckoslash]

Hey man this video helped me a ton thank you very very much

[@sawhorse9820]

Nice job...crystal clear!

[@gregberban9273]

Funny. That's the stupidest video ever seen

[@sawhorse9820]

@@gregberban9273 You need experience to understand. That was just a little over your head.

[@gregberban9273]

@@sawhorse9820 master electrician 40yrs experience sure I do

[@sawhorse9820]

@@gregberban9273 Ooops, then I'm sure your expertise is over my head ;-)

[@jefftiburon]

Hey man. question, my switch is on a split, so the only wiring coming in to the box is controlling the light. like there isn't hot wires coming in and separate wires exiting going to the light. when i shut off the breaker, the light, outlet, stove, kitchen lights lol all lose power. so how do I fix this? Im installing a wifi switch. Thanks hopefully you see this.

[@fixitwithzim]

jefftiburon Sounds like the source power is feeding the light junction box and they have a switched leg with a single piece of romex to your switch box. If that's the case, only thing you can do is run an extra piece of romex from your light down to the switch box to add a neutral to that location

[@thecollinzboy]

So why did you decide to do this when you have a switched receptacle that already works perfectly?

[@fixitwithzim]

thecollinzboy I installed recessed lighting and no longer needed a switched outlet

[@thecollinzboy]

zimsjeep what is it about recessed lighting that made you want to change? Is it for decorative purposes? Or is it a better lighting source having a recessed light come down from the ceiling?

[@xxvodanhxx]

The hardest part would have been to run that new wire down into an existing box. How do you fish that ? lol Sometimes it's really hard to remove the box. Esp if its nailed in.

[@fixitwithzim]

I have another video on my channel showing how I ran it, not all that difficult and with minor damage to the drywall

[@gotbb2076]

Wow great video

[@zeroskater720]

Shouldn't you add a green wire nut to the grounds? Is that not a requirement?

[@fixitwithzim]

zeroskater720 I don't believe it's required. I don't see a purpose to nutting the grounds. I always give my ground wires a good 7-10 twists inside the j box. Leave one long to tie into the outlet or switch and you're good. It'll never come apart. Thanks for the comment.

[@zeroskater720]

Right on. Thanks.

[@jamit2u]

Wire nut isn’t the best way look up bucannon splice caps for ground, must have physical connection

[@coypatton3160]

jamit2u agree, but truly all connections should have a solid physical connection. He showed this well by giving black white and ground wires good twist connections before using wire nuts! When it is bare ground wire why would code require a wire nut?

[@chaser9363]

because the grounding wire is the most important wire in the system, as it's for personnel protection, you "should" always ensure a good connection on the grounding wires with a "permanent means" of connection, such as at least a wire nut, crimp or quick connector (note: doesn't have to be a "green or insulated" conn.) to keep wires from loosening "over time" due to vibrations and/or expanding and contracting from heating and cooling inside the box. this is required by the NEC. It's not in plain language, but "what" in the NEC is. It starts in article 250 something and refers back to article 110 something not exactly sure of the references, haven't read it in some time now but it's there. sorry, not trying to be mean, just thought you should know and i'm real anal when it comes to grounding.

[@rickschiaffo618]

Did this , then switch didn't work. ?? Now I'm confused.

[@abrahamvaro5482]

Nice video ,thanks!!!

[@EnjoyLifeFC]

I have an older decora light switch that looks like there's only 2 wires connected to the back of the switch: a Load and Line wire. Inside the box are 2 ground wires twisted together with a nut at the tip. And 2 neutral wires twisted together with a nut at the tip. I want to place a new decora switch but it requires me to connect the line, load, neutral, and ground wire to the actual decora light switch. my Q is: how do I now connect the 2 neutral wires, and the 2 ground wires to the back of the switch. Do I need to splice it or buy a ground and neutral wire connector addition? Thanks! Great video btw.

[@fixitwithzim]

F C you can pigtail off the existing wire nuts to the new switch. A pigtail is just a short jumper wire. So instead of 2 wires under each wire nut, you'll now have 3. (3 neutrals and 3 grounds). Just work safe and smart. If you're unsure, get an electrician in. Thanks for the compliments, I appreciate it!

[@panama-sx2oh]

im a electrician very well prepared n properly done yes the electrician before should had reidentified the neutral but he did not. keep up good work n god bless

[@fixitwithzim]

panama1965 Thanks a lot for the comment and kind words. Appreciate it!

[@scorpion8525]

Did you ground the neutral wire?

[@fixitwithzim]

No, only the ground goes to ground

[@soulsurfdog]

can you use the same configuration and add a dual single pole switch?

[@fixitwithzim]

soulsurfdog Yes since all the neutrals in a switch box get tied together in most cases.

[@farmerdave7965]

Wow ! You are really quick !

[@fixitwithzim]

Farmer Dave My wife tells me that all the time

[@denismanace]

Thank you 😊

[@mattpkp]

good video, in my case sadly the switch without the neutral goes to a light so I believe I Need to run another wire to the light.

[@joeymelton4095]

Matt neutral will be at ur fixture