Rheem Tankless Water Heater Installation Part 6: Wrap up and 1 month update

[@Mr-Chris]

Hi Scotty, I found out about your videos after reading your review on Home Depot. I really wanted to get a Tankless and tried Home Depot's installation service. I received a call from someone that HD referred me to to install this tankless, before they even came out to my home they told me that it would cost starting $7K or more. I hung up that call and remembered your review and then watched your videos. I did it myself. I installed the Rheem tankless and was lucky enough to have 1 inch gas pipe, a coinvent location in my basement near my sump pump (to drain condensate), close to vent outside (6ft), and that was also near a power outlet. I had ended up installing 3/4 CCST gas pipe (bonded) with iron pipe and trap that at the last run. I also ran Pex instead of copper since it was easier for a novice like me. I took my time since I was not in a Rush, did my research days ahead of time and ordered most of my parts from Home Depot and few hard to find on Amazon. In total it took me 3 days to do it myself. I left the very last step of disconnecting old tank heater water and gas and hooking it up to my already completed tankless. My biggest pain was venting, even though it was a short run, it wasn't easy and made 3 trips to Home Depot to get the right fittings. THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEOS

[@FixItScotty]

Well done! Unless you can make $7k in 3 days some other way, I think that was time well spent. Thanks for sharing, I loved reading this.

[@westchesterdj]

Thanks for making these videos on this unit. I've had one for 2 years sitting in the box. I am going to start my install tomorrow.

[@FixItScotty]

Good luck!

[@toddgunning5850]

Just wanted to say thanks for this series. My water heater died on Monday (today is weds) in the middle of the "stay at home" order. I placed an online order for the similar unit to arrive "hopefully" on Friday (so in the mean time, I'm without hot water) and your series has been informative enough to get me through. I just need to work with inspectors to see if the area I want to use as my intake / exhaust is acceptable.

[@FixItScotty]

Thanks so much for the comment! Water heaters are one of those things you can never plan for failure. Good luck on your install.

[@zumadale]

No one in America has any right whatsoever to impose stay home orders...masks ....and social distancing....rant off now. Stand up america...come on!

[@raychang9512]

A very thorough how to video set. Well done!

[@matt46legend]

Thank you for your video. It has helped me with my decision to get a tankless or tank model.

[@lostevesy]

Just ordered this model! Coming Thursday ~ got quoted $1800 for install Labor costs

[@FixItScotty]

That quote sounds pretty reasonable. Hope the install went smoothly.

[@Zharsergey]

Does it have a recirculating pump? If not, how long does it take to get hot water at the furthest tap?

[@FixItScotty]

No, this does not have an in-built recirculator pump. It takes about 10 seconds longer than a tank heater (maybe 20 seconds total) to get hot water from the farthest tap. Constant recirculating a tankless would be very costly. The best way to do it is add a recirculating pump on a smart wifi enabled switch. That way you could start it before you take a shower and stop if afterward.

[@Zharsergey]

@@FixItScotty Yeah I'm debating between Rinnai RUR and RU. RUR has built in pump with wifi controller or push button on demand recirculation.

[@gamingwithwalklikeawookie6075]

Just installed one of this same model and wondering if you have figured out what the small nipple in front of the condensate drain line is for. I opened the cover and it looks like it connects to the condensate tank. Any ideas would help. Thanks

[@FixItScotty]

That outlet isn't mentioned anywhere in the instructions. I assume it's just an alternate condensate drain.

[@FixItScotty]

Actually, I just saw this video that talks about the internals. kzbin.info/www/bejne/naimmIaDhsaVgLM

[@rogerhodges7656]

Good job BUT: By code the the termination of the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve must be at a point where readily visible to the building occupants and shall serve only that one relief valve. The termination point must not be more than 6 inches above the floor or flood level rim of the receptor, and one must be careful to maintain the required air gap when discharging to a receptor.

[@FixItScotty]

Thanks for the info. Yes, my relief valve discharge terminates 12" above the bottom of the slop sink instead of 6", but it is surrounded by the sink walls.

[@westvalley411]

Great series, "I cant believe I watched (ate) the whole thing" Interesting that the Rheem brochure says you can use existing 1/2 inch gas line for installation. Must be for smaller gas unit, not the one you used. I will go online for manual and call tech support before I begin. My 50 gallon tank is 20 years old and still works, but with teenagers, its not working out, wife complaining and you know what that means.

[@FixItScotty]

Yes, read the comments on my videos and you will find people, like me, have found numerous errors and outright contradictory statements in Rheem's documentation. But the good news -- getting a real technical support representative on the phone is fairly easy when you call Rheem's support line.

[@Andri-ps7xh]

Hello, thank you so much for your videos.I bought Richmond tankless exactly the same model as yours from Menards. Installed per manual's instructions, also following your advices. It worked nicely for about a week (thank you!). Yesterday morning, when we turned on the hot faucet, the flow slowed down & trickled to a stop. When we turn off the unit, hot faucet fully flows back with cold water. When we turn the unit back on, the hot faucet's flow slows down & trickles to a stop again. We tried unplugging the unite & drain the water & re-start again, but still the same problem. Do you have any ideas? Any input would be appreciated.

[@FixItScotty]

It sounds like there is something wrong internally. I just don't know enough to troubleshoot an internal problem other than to evaluate the code that is being given on the display. My suggestion is to call Rheem support and have them guide you through troubleshooting it. Tell them you are the installer and they will connect you with a support technician.

[@Andri-ps7xh]

@@FixItScotty Thank you. Will do.

[@randycheung6572]

Lots of good info here for the DIYer! Have you thought about pairing this with the rheem hydronic air handler? I have this tankless unit sitting in the box in my basement right now.

[@FixItScotty]

That's an interesting idea! I haven't thought of that since my gas furnace is less than 8 years old and still going strong. My concern would be this unit may wear out faster supplying heat and hot water during the winter. I would love to talk to someone who has that setup.

[@randycheung6572]

@@FixItScotty I was hoping you could be the guinea pig….Make a make a video, and share your thoughts! My furnace is pushing 15 years and is a complete energy pig. I’m kinda debating on what to do right now…

[@jenniferxu967]

What is the black pipe that tied up with the condensation pipe and copper pressure release pipe?

[@FixItScotty]

That is my water softener discharge line.

[@jenniferxu967]

@@FixItScotty Thank you ! Can I use stainless steel pipes for the connection?

[@FixItScotty]

@@jenniferxu967 Some models have a single, stainless steel concentric pipe connection at the top. Commonly in that situation, the water heater would include the stainless piping. This unit has two, 2" PVC, connections at the top for exhaust and intake. I don't see any way to connect stainless to this. Only PVC. You could still use a concentric pipe or 3" pipe, but it would have to be Schedule 40 PVC that you can glue to from the 2" coming out of the top ports.

[@jenniferxu967]

@@FixItScotty Got it. Thank you!

[@diyhandyman2233]

Great videos! Just wondering as homeowner I'm replacing a 22 yr old unit. Do you need to get permit or inspection? Also did you get a Warranty doing this yourself?

[@FixItScotty]

My local municipality does not ask for a permit for water heater installation (tank or tankless). A city next to me does specifically have permitting of water heater installation. So check your local city permitting office. As for the warranty, Rheem's warranty registration asks for contractor information but it is optional. Other manufacturers require licensed contractor installation before you can register for the warranty. Confirm with Rheem if you buy their product though - they could have changed their policy!

[@diyhandyman2233]

@@FixItScotty Thanks,I think they do require a permit in Washington state. Going to check on that and the warranty with Rheem. I've checked others and they don't give you a warranty unless you have a licensed contractor. Isn't that hard to install except for a little venting, somewhat like you had to do. My tankless has been trouble free for 22yrs. Bosch 80 percent. Thanks again!

[@ameersaam]

Did you use regular pvc? Looks like it

[@FixItScotty]

That's correct, standard 2" schedule 40 PVC.

[@lamyisrael6277]

Hey! So how's the Yearly update like?

[@FixItScotty]

So far, so good. Here is the yearly cleaning video that I did. kzbin.info/www/bejne/imjVl4t5gdl4pa8

[@jc51373]

Flame Rod: Poor or Improper Combustion An Error Code 13 will only display on Indoor Rheem Tankless systems. Check that the air intake and exhaust venting is correctly installed and in good working order. It's critical that the exhaust is NOT recirculating into the unit's fresh air intake. www.hot-water-heaters-reviews.com/rheem-error-code-13-solution.html Also, Tankless units require a minimum flow rate to operate, could be the trickle wasn't meeting the min. flow rate of the unit so it set off a flag. I's still have that code looked into. And don't run descale solution it will shorten the life of the heat exchanger..You're a homeowner so you can use vinegar, you have the extra time to sit and wait. descale is for a time savings, but it will eat away at the copper, vinegar will not and does the same thing just takes longer and there is no risk of chemicals getting into your home water supply with vinegar. Lastly, and i can't completely tell but the vent to the outside looks like it's pitched toward the water heater, supposed to have a slight pitch toward the outside.

[@FixItScotty]

Thanks for this great information! Noted about the vinegar for descaling -- I will probably do that since it's cheaper but just takes more time. About the venting pitch, I did note in my Part 2 video that I did put a slight pitch toward the outside. I haven't had any other error codes since that leak on the hot water side so I think that was the root cause of that error code.

[@vica153]

....Looks like that pretty clearly says "DWV" on the PVC. The elbow looks like a DWV fitting as well. AKA cellular core. Not rated for pressure and not to be used in exhaust venting. Better fix that Scotty. Solid core sch40 PVC only.

[@FixItScotty]

Are you sure "DWV" means it is cellular core? I thought it was the ASTM number that specified that, ie: ASTM F 891. My pipe states it is ASTM 2665 which still isn't rated for high pressure or heat, but I don't think it's cellular core.