I was wondering what the temp of the exhaust pipe is, now that it was wrapped. I'm worrying about it setting a canvas tent on fire. Any way you can tell me the temp of the pipe exterior? Thanks
@FixItScottyКүн бұрын
I was running it today and saw your comment. My infrared thermometer showed between 4 and 500 degrees F on the exhaust. But I can touch it for a couple seconds! So I measured it with a meat thermometer and it got a little above 200 degrees F. At the wall flange, it's a little above 100 degrees. So likely the wrap lowers the temp in the outside of the pipe by about 200 degrees.
@93gmctruck18Күн бұрын
I clean my tankless every year vinegar comes out clean and I leave mine running for hour n half. I think your water being that dirty probably because you leave outside city limits if you do it’s twice a year.
@FixItScottyКүн бұрын
Mine probably looked dirtier due to the orange bucket. I did another "advanced" cleaning video (linked in pinned comment) where after the cleaning, I poured some of the vinegar into a clear bowl, and it was mostly clear with some slight cloudiness. I have an old house, but I am on municipal water. Thanks for watching!
@PigsOnBook5 күн бұрын
I keep coming back to these videos, thanks again. Did you have any hold up buying sch40 pvc pipe and elbows, in regards to elbows say on them ASTM D-2665 and straight pipe says D2665 AND ASTM D-1785? My Rheem manual says, page 22, acceptable exhaust is D-1785, then has a separate row in same table, D-2665 is approved for fittings. But I cannot find an elbow fitting that has D-1785 etched on it from Lowes or local plumbing supply. Rheem wasn't exactly sure, but we discovered that straight pipe seems to be in both ASTM families, because it has in red writing, D-1785 and 2665, and maybe elbows are in the D-2665 group only, as fittings. If elbows only say only D-2665, is that good?
@FixItScotty5 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching! Both ASTM D2665 and D1785 are SOLID CORE sch40 PVC which is very important for this application. I believe D1785 can handle higher pressure (and maybe heat) than D2665. That said, all my piping is rated ASTM D2665. I never got any specific guidance from Rheem that I needed D1785 pipe or fittings; the exhaust doesn't seem hot enough or high pressure enough to warrant it. But keep in mind, I am a DIYer and neither a licensed plumber or professional support tech. So don't consider me an authority on the subject. Call Rheem support and see what they say. Good luck on your implementation.
@PigsOnBook5 күн бұрын
@@FixItScotty Awesome. Thanks! It appears 2665 is the rating for Drain, waste, VENT applications. and Charlotte brand helped me figure out a 2665 elbow can be used to connect to a 1785 pipe, and will say 2665 on it, even if 1785 is not printed on the elbow. Another lesson learned.
@pstreetgarage73045 күн бұрын
Great vid Scotty, didnt realise you had done this before, I joined your channel during your shop build !
@FixItScotty5 күн бұрын
Thanks! Yes, my previous EV conversion was over 10 years ago... well before I started my channel.
@jerryberkel84215 күн бұрын
What size t clamps did you get?
@FixItScotty5 күн бұрын
I forget the size. But I put a link to the product in the video description.
@notyodaddy14996 күн бұрын
Great video. Do you have a video of how the bearings go back in the assembly?
@FixItScotty5 күн бұрын
Sorry I don't, but there are other videos that show that. Here's one example: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a3mmY4lqituKn68si=bcMoqQ0Win9zPC2j. Thanks for watching!
@4WillyD6 күн бұрын
Plan installing one of these in a conversion van. This was a very helpful video in understanding what it will take to install. Thanks for taking the time to make this high quality video.
@spacebike4206 күн бұрын
Can get more heat for less cost out of a Big buddy propane heater
@FixItScotty6 күн бұрын
That's true. I actually have a 'Little buddy' and used it a lot in my old garage. The two advantages of this diesel heater is that it blows the hot air to circulated it and it doesn't require ventilation like the propane heater.
@spacebike4206 күн бұрын
@FixItScotty they have a fan on the big buddy pro, there is an O2 safety shut off and the garage isn't sealed the best anyway. This way I don't have to drill a hole for exhaust. There's a bunch of ways to get more heat off the exhaust from the diesel heaters before dumping it but I'm not heating it all the time just a few hours here and there. So that's a lot of extra work for a diesel heater for me
@FixItScotty6 күн бұрын
@@spacebike420 Good to know the propane heaters are improved. And I agree, it is a bit of work to modify the exhaust to make these diesel heaters efficient.
@spacebike4206 күн бұрын
@@FixItScotty they still seem the best option on something mobile with diesel available though. I'll probably put on in the truck topper just for camping.
@HubertusSchaper6 күн бұрын
Hi Scotty🇺🇸, That`s all very interesting for those who are interested of this thema.How ever even I dont understand a bit of what you talking about. its still entertaing👍🏻. I just look forward for the first drive with your converted VW Bu👀.Greetings.Hubertus🙏🏻🇳🇱☮🇺🇸
@FixItScotty6 күн бұрын
The first drive should be soon if the winter isn't too cold. I still need to fix brakes and register the car to drive on the road. Otherwise, it does move and I'm very close to the finish! Hope you are doing well and staying warm.
@pstreetgarage73045 күн бұрын
Great vid Scotty, I didn't realize you had done this before....I joined your channel when you were building your new shop lol
@globalcitizen92066 күн бұрын
Great video. Good comments. Good ideas.
@z01sne7 күн бұрын
great series...the only thing you failed to touch on was that the condensate generated by the heater is acidic due to the process. Dumping acidic condensate into metal drain lines is never a good idea. Your house appears "older" and I would imagine it has lead or iron piping. You should really install a condensate neutralizer to the drain hose.
@FixItScotty7 күн бұрын
Thanks!! The only reason I haven't had issues with the condensate is because that basin sink (where my water softener discharges) is not level and always has a little standing water in tub. So by the time the condensate gets to the main stack, it's pretty well diluted. But, you're right, I should add a condensate neutralizer to prevent problems.
@johnmathew78217 күн бұрын
Did you turn off your gas before flushing?
@FixItScotty7 күн бұрын
The manual recommends turning off both gas and power before flushing, but turning the power off or unplugging it is sufficient. Shutting off the gas is a backup in case someone turns the power on accidentally.
@HiddenAgendas8 күн бұрын
fact that you had to make some correction to what the installer did just proves it's better to do it yourself sometimes.
@pstreetgarage730411 күн бұрын
Amazing set up Scotty ! You sure know your way around that stuff, first drive will be very exciting
@retiredperson405411 күн бұрын
Thanks -- I was going to tell you about that on the first video! But I was going to be NICE LOL A man who can admit his mistakes is a MAN I can work with! (FYI -- I worked all types of construction for over 55 years)
@pauljensen528412 күн бұрын
I believe there is a new heavier axel nut and washer for the hub.
@FixItScotty10 күн бұрын
Good to know. If I have to replace the other side, I will keep that in mind. Thanks!
@Autoshyne7913 күн бұрын
You got best neat setup with 2 awesome videos 🫡👍 I ain’t gonna lie I’m using some of your ideas 💡 thanks 🙏
@FixItScotty12 күн бұрын
Please do take what you like! Now that temps are dropping, I am using it again and am so thankful I have this heater. Good luck on your implementation!
@cvicracer14 күн бұрын
Great work, and great explanation the project is coming out awesome!!! Looking forward to the next episode !!!
@FixItScotty14 күн бұрын
Thanks!!
@MichaelAChang14 күн бұрын
Have you had condensation accumulation in the "U" exhaust pipe bend? I've seen videos where the low point was filled with water from condensation rather than external water intrusion.
@FixItScotty14 күн бұрын
Before I started using this heavily, I made a follow-up video with several enhancements; one being the exhaust. Check out that video linked in the video description. Thanks for watching!
@dwightdancy516316 күн бұрын
I have heard that you should simply unplug the unit vs powering it off. Apparently, powering it off will close an internal valve, there-by you will not fully flush some of the internals? Some others argue that you should only turn off the gas, and then this tricks the system into thinking that the flow switch it tripped, and the internal valve(s) remains open. Some who use chemicals instead of vinegar, leave the system to heat the flush chemicals, thus improving their effectiveness. I personally would NOT do this, as the heating would be unfettered, and you could blow something up or overheat the system or the circulation pump has a temperature range maximum. I have relatively hard water, and do this every 6 months. I just unplug the unit and follow the methods above.
@FixItScotty16 күн бұрын
You are correct. But it depends on the brand and model. I discuss this in my "advanced flush" video that is linked in the video description and in the pinned comment.
@salty-biscuit22 күн бұрын
do you know if the manual lowering valve cartridge thread size is 3/4 ? I need to order one
@FixItScotty22 күн бұрын
I don't know. Perhaps you can find a parts manual online. It could be a metric thread.
@kracticuspotts968623 күн бұрын
Any idea when you will have your next video out for connecting the bms wiring and balancing? My 8 A123 battery packs got delivered yesterday and it looks like my Thunderstruck VCU, charger,and MCU will be delivered today.
@FixItScotty23 күн бұрын
I can't promise anything, but I should have it done in the next couple weeks.
@МыколаНетребко24 күн бұрын
3:25 how important is that large rubber gasket? I don’t remember installing one on my unit but I also think there was a large gasket pre installed already and I assumed the other one was a duplicate. I’m assuming if there are no leaks then all is well?
@FixItScotty23 күн бұрын
The smaller o-rings that seat the hot and cold openings are much more important. You're probably right; the larger o-ring was likely preinstalled around the mixer body if you didn't see it. It just presses against the stainless outer ring to prevent overall leaks from the mixer. If there are no leaks, you should be fine.
@ovdenser24 күн бұрын
What is the part number?
@FixItScotty24 күн бұрын
Like my brother mentioned in the video, the part number depends on the model and serial number of your oven and they vary. Call this distributor with your serial number (he showed where to find it on your oven) and they will give you the part numbers. www.midwestdistributing.com/OpenPages/Owner.aspx
@pstreetgarage730427 күн бұрын
Wow Scotty ! That's quite the set up, very complex. Nicely done.
@FixItScotty27 күн бұрын
It sure is. With regard to this car build, it has officially transitioned from blue collar to white collar work.
@Eli-he3yc27 күн бұрын
Could output 5 be used for starter motor when battery SOC is below a certain level in hybrids???
@FixItScotty27 күн бұрын
I believe the documentation says that output 5 cannot handle passing more than 1.5 amps through it. But you can still use it to control a relay that switches the power to the device. In that way, the out5 wire would go to the positive side of the relay coil.
@kracticuspotts968627 күн бұрын
This is great. I ordered this MCU on Friday now I am not quite as nervous about setting it up. I also am planning on using the A123 battery packs from Green tec so this series is going to help me a lot. I just subscribed.
@FixItScotty27 күн бұрын
Nice! I am following another person on diyelectriccar who is using the A123 modules and Thunderstruck MCU to get advice on connecting these. Feel free to join that discussion; www.diyelectriccar.com/threads/1991-crx-conversion-rebuild.210284/
@FreezerBurn.28 күн бұрын
I have to do this for my elderly neighbour soon with the exact same unit. I just cleaned the filter today and had a lot of air in the system after. Is there a way to bleed the air out or do i just open every tap and wait?
@FixItScotty27 күн бұрын
Yup, just open a hot water tap and wait for it to stop sputtering.
@FrankGraffagnino28 күн бұрын
really great video on the thunderstruck MCU.
@FixItScotty28 күн бұрын
Table of Contents 2:12 - MCU Wiring 8:29 - Connecting to the MCU 15:14 - Programming custom MCU outputs
@HarrySpatzАй бұрын
Since you knew there was a leak (no pressure in the system) and there appeared to be no leak when your manifold gauges were hooked up, this would seem to indicate that one or both of your Schraeder valves were leaking, since these are bypassed when the manifold gauges are connected. You might want to check if there is any leakage there and if there is, then with the right device, you can replace those valves without losing your refrigerant.
@FixItScottyАй бұрын
That's good advise. I believe that Vevor gauge kit came with a cheap refrigerant detector. I may take the caps off and see if it beeps. I have seen those Schraeder valve replacement tools and may pick one up.
@RADMAN752Ай бұрын
Fuel pump mounted wrong
@FixItScottyАй бұрын
You are correct. I linked a follow-up video where I fixed this among other fixes and upgrades.
@xbubbleheadАй бұрын
Can't tell the difference between 6 and 1/6?
@FixItScottyАй бұрын
My brain could, but my mouth couldn't 😜
@xbubbleheadАй бұрын
@@FixItScotty Yeah, it was a funny little slip that we humans are prone to do, but at least you were able to put the right info on the screen. I thought it was funny because I ran my entire house water supply on a 1 hp shallow well pump for years.
@chrissosa4739Ай бұрын
Hi. Do you need to turn off gas valve?
@FixItScottyАй бұрын
The instructions recommend turning off the gas valve and power. I just turn off the power. The gas valve is an extra precaution to ensure the burners don't fire while cleaning it, but it's not necessary if you have the power off.
@davidfrick4119Ай бұрын
I'm not putting your install down I really like what you've done with it. That said, here's another reason to drill another hole in the siding; Not routing the combustion air intake hose outdoors will turn the heater in to a small vacuum, blowing the heated air outside in the exhaust but ALSO sucking outdoor air in through the path of least resistance - probably your garage door or the workshop window - to do so. It is the same reason why new "single hose" portable A/C units are a scam and I only recommend using older dual-hose units... The newer cheaper units usually suck hot air in through the same window it's exhausting cooled room air out of! It might not be moving enough air to matter, but you might find it does a better job heating the garage space if it's not creating a draft for burn air.
@FixItScottyАй бұрын
That makes total sense. It's the same reason high efficiency natural gas furnaces draw makeup air from the outside. I will probably see how it goes this winter and then make that change next spring. Thanks!
@themrjim1953Ай бұрын
mine was installed in November 2018 , just now doing a flush,for the first time , been running for 30 minutes and water still look very clean , using Calci-free , using it because it never been done and was installed 5 yrs ago , idont have a softener, just straight from the main
@FixItScottyАй бұрын
Good for you! Yeah, my orange bucket really colors my solution. In my advanced video (linked at the end), I pour my finished solution into a clear bowl. It's really not that cloudy. It has a blue-green tinge from copper corrosion and maybe a little bit of gray cloudiness. But otherwise it is clear.
@themrjim1953Ай бұрын
@@FixItScotty i didnt even have a tablespoon on sediment
@xmarksthespot5188Ай бұрын
A ceiling fan will help to distribute the heat evenly in your shop !
@FixItScottyАй бұрын
Yes, I mounted a large, oscillating fan high on that back wall. That helps move the heat around. Thanks for watching!
@FilosefeAbstracАй бұрын
Pilot light won't stay on, bad "thermo couple?" P.S. thank you for the video
@FixItScottyАй бұрын
Yes, if the pilot won't stay on, it is usually a bad thermocouple. Occasionally it could be the pilot pressure is too weak (there's an adjustment on the gas valve) or the thermocouple is too far from the pilot flame and needs to be adjusted on the pilot rail.
@triciacadoretteАй бұрын
What is wrong when the pilot won't stay lit after changing the thermocoupler
@FixItScottyАй бұрын
There is an adjustment screw on the gas valve to set the pilot pressure. It could be either not enough flame to satisfy the thermocouple (adjust the screw) or the thermocouple is too far from the pilot flame and needs to be adjusted.
@triciacadoretteАй бұрын
@@FixItScottythank u
@martinnormand7458Ай бұрын
Probably could leave it overnight, would be even better! Go visit family for the night.
@philoso377Ай бұрын
Page 4:20 How may we identify what drum we have when the drum has tapered diameter?
@FixItScottyАй бұрын
It wasn't clear to me.... I tried both the 4" drum setting and the "larger than 4" setting. It seemed to result in a subtle speed change. So if you have a tapered drum and aren't sure which of the drum setting to use; I just tried out both settings and picked the one that worked best.
@philoso377Ай бұрын
A kind suggestion to like kind of garage door openers. Problem? We need as tight as we can provide to couple the collet at the end of a 9 or 17 feet torque pipe and not crunched it. Solution ? Insert a short section of solid rod (acting as a backing rod) into the torque pipe with matching ID to OD. This will prevent over pinch that 17 ft torque pipe.
@FixItScottyАй бұрын
That is a great idea. If mine ever slips, I will do that.
@philoso377Ай бұрын
To those living in California listen to this proposal. Backup battery code isn’t complete until the door is capable of triggered into opening mode by local smoke detector.
@discusthrowerstateАй бұрын
Did you wire the led transmitters in after you set the up and down limits?
@FixItScottyАй бұрын
I didn't need the bottom sensors installed when I set the up and down limits. I installed the sensors after that in order to test the remotes.
@discusthrowerstateАй бұрын
I’m having trouble setting the down limit. I also don’t see the LED transmitters on. Everything is wired right. I have no idea what the problem is.
@FixItScottyАй бұрын
If the LEDs on your sensors aren't lit up, I would think there must be an issue with the wiring. Review how I did it again starting around 12:30. Make sure the wire isn't broken (maybe it was stapled too hard). Make sure you have pushed the stripped ends into the "Safety beam" holes on the main unit like I described using the small screwdriver to lock them into the connector.
@paulsosa1872Ай бұрын
Can CLR be used?
@FixItScottyАй бұрын
Not sure. I would probably just stick with vinegar or an approved descaler product.
@pstreetgarage7304Ай бұрын
Great video Scotty ! Beautiful work ! Very impressive
@derekvanderbyl4Ай бұрын
Just found your channel, it's great! Giving me lots of ideas. Thank you!
@HubertusSchaperАй бұрын
Hi Scotty🇺🇸, Great work I & nice explaned how it`s function👍🏻. Im sure there a lot of people who want to make a coversion.🙏🏻 Greetings.Hubertus🇳🇱🇳🇴☮🍀👍🏻🇺🇸
@FrankGraffagninoАй бұрын
first spin! what a great milestone! i'd recommend something more on that negative bus bar... not just for dielectic but any possibility of vibration causing abrasion. Also, do you plan to enclose your battery box? Something with a melting point high enough to give occupants time to get out safely. Also, it would be good to have something more to completely eliminate anything dropping down into the section with those exposed contacts. Great job scotty! what awesome progress!
@FixItScottyАй бұрын
Thanks Frank! I have a thick plexiglass panel that will cover the top. I will also add some panels to the sides to protect the bus bars. Still more room to iterate and improve...