Rigid foam insulation in my topper: install & impressions

[@softroadingthewest]

I didn't think to mention in this video that, yes, I do have window coverings. I have curtains that fit pretty snugly on the side windows, and coroplast panels that fit into the front & rear windows. These do make a noticeable difference vs exposed glass - and I did have them in place those three subfreezing nights I slept in the insulated cap. :-)

[@RVingwithG]

Are you still not willing to use (add) the 1/4' Reflex bubble wrap? That could maybe add that last little bit on insulation you need to stop that condensation....? it is only an R-1 but just to block the bridging gap could do the trick. It comes in 4' wide rolls too.

[@MK-qg9vs]

13:33 Donald paint your roof with a white exterior metal bonding spray paint. Self etching primer and an exterior rated spray paint can will get you far enough. Maybe just behr exterior paint is cheaper still. Good luck

[@e.c.8668]

Engineer here who studied thermodynamics and heat transfer for a couple semesters...then used it a bit at work. Some of my favorite classes and ones I refer to quite a bit at home and for fun (like these projects) Remember, heat rises and cold settles low. Also, heat transfers to cold (part of the second law of thermo). So, in the winter, if you heat the cab, the heat will rise and will (now, in your case) transfer [quicker] through the ribs and into the aluminum shell which is basically a big radiator. Adding the carpet will slow that process further ( you slowed it down a bit by adding that insulation). But, you have cold replacing the heat from the bottom. And our frontier beds are metal, so it's just a big collector that will radiate cold up into the bed space. Insulating it will slow that process. In the summer, the heat will collect in the volume above the door (assuming you open the door to air it out). The higher you put the vent, the quicker you'll get that heat out. Having it on that kickout may not be do that good unless you augment with a fan (or two) to circulate the air. The cooler air that will collect near the ground at night will cool the metal bed which will slowly replace the hot air at the top as it radiates out of the top of your shell. For the summer, I would recommend that a fan to blow that air up from your rear door and/or windoors to toward the top of your camper shell. That will circulate the air and cool it off quicker. If needed, make screens to keep the bugs out. My concern about you adding a vent fan is that it's another hole in your shell. It's another potential for water leak. Insulating the bed may work, but at what cost? That's going to be a bit of weight. It all comes down to what you can bear. - When it was below freezing ore really cold, were you comfortable as you slept? - Were you worried that you'd freeze or it was unsafe? The second question is, how often will you be in that situation? - If you won't do it often (or never again because it was unbearable), then why do any more? Why waste the money and load carrying capacity on something you may not need. In the end, there's three things. 1) You can only slow the process of the heat transfer. You can't stop it. So you need a heat source in the winter or a cooling source in the summer. But only to make it comfortable. 2) Since your slowing the transfer of heat, it will also take a little longer to make that space comfortable when you do apply heat/cooling since less is transferring out through the insulated areas. 3) But once you have it comfortable, your heating/cooling source will be able to work less or less hard to keep the space comfortable and/or it will stay comfortable longer after your turn off the heating/cooling source.

[@AndrewKumler]

I camped in my fiberglass, carpeted truck canopy for many years. I made window coverings from bubble foil. I used the hook side of adhesive backed velcro to attach them over the windows, adhering to the carpet. Made a big difference and also worked as a blackout and privacy shade. Easy to remove and roll up when not in use, and weigh next to nothing. I am enjoying the build process of your rig.

[@om617yota8]

Looks great! Very neat! I used the same stuff in 2" thickness to insulate my shop, and didn't get it nearly as nice as you. Good call cutting with a knife. I used a circular saw to cut mine. Very effective, but the sawn out bits turned the entire 30x30ft building into a snowglobe. I'm still finding styrofoam bits in odd corners, and I insulated years ago. I press fit my insulation panels in my shop as well, and they still fell out eventually and had to be glued. That's in a building, that's not bumping over dirt roads and flexing a bunch(although still some, temp change and all that). I think taping the seams was a good call. Thank you sir for taking us along on the journey, we really appreciate it.

[@outofbounds218]

I think the slices for the curved sections are absolutely genius Donald. Kudos!!

[@marchingon5401]

For the hollow aluminum box frame tubing the spray foam could be the perfect solution. Drill holes and fill the tubing. Similar to how wall insulation is blown in between stud bays.

[@Dennis-1367]

The aluminum box frames will still conduct temperature via the sides of the tubes. Air inside acts as an insulator, foam will do it better. But the tubes still have sides conducting your temperature around the foam.

[@gerryhartung736]

By jove matey, I believe you've don't it!!

[@e.c.8668]

Nope. Won't do a thing. Not for that type of heat conduction.

[@marchingon5401]

@@e.c.8668 I understand Dennis’ explanation but really? Not a thing? So if you had a thermal scanner before and after doing that there would not be a single noticeable difference. I’m not convinced of that. There’s many examples of this used in metal commercial buildings and aluminum window frames. Maybe law of diminishing returns on effort vs. benefit though.

[@e.c.8668]

@@marchingon5401 With that tube being 1" square, the difference may well as be less than measurable with an instrument you find at the local hardware store. You have to remember that the aluminum has to radiate into that space and it will do so from the four sides, not just from the top and bottom. The heat transfer will take place along the path of lowest resistance, which is along the metal. If beams were larger...maybe it would buy you something. But 1" square. Not worth it. The best thing he could do would be do decouple the frame from the air space in the cabin and/or decouple the frame from the metal sheet. To do the former, they sell insulating tape that he can place before he puts on the carpet. The best is this stuff made using Aerolgel/Aeroloft. It's an ultralight material. Just a 6mm thin sheet is enough to stop the heat of a bunsen burner from burning you if you touch the cold side. We used this for a project and it's amazing stuff. There's a company that makes it for the tape for the housing market to insulate between wall studs and ceiling rafter and the sheetrock. They see about a 30% decrease in heat transfer. To do the latter, the manufacturer would have to use double sided tape to attach the shell to the frame...which maybe they do. I've actually never seen how ARE/Leer attach the shell to their frames. I assumed they riveted or did small spot welds. That tape would likely have a very small 'R' value, but it would be better than the direct contact that appears to be how they are manufactured. Apparently this double-sided tape is tacky/strong enough to be used in building airplanes. I don't build airplanes so I can't confirm how they use it. So if it can work for airplanes, it should work for vehicle campers. But again, the R-value would be relatively low since it's not chosen for insulating, but for attachment.

[@chuckrf1502]

And that squirrel was huge!

[@martymcfarling6844]

Insulation will only slow down the heat transfer and isn't a source of heating/cooling, so it's not a big surprise that it didn't make a dramatic difference on its own. If you insulate the box sides and floor in a similar way, it'll definitely improve the heat retention. You're barely half insulated at the moment. That said, I appreciate your process/progress/process/progress approach to your overlanding setup. You have saved me and many others valuable time and money without appearing to set yourself back significantly. You make it look fun. :)

[@softroadingthewest]

The walls (and even floor) of the truck box itself do not get anywhere near as cold as the aluminum of the canopy, and with lots of undulating contours, would be tricky to insulate without seriously eating into the already small amount of space that I have. The cabinet I have along one side does essentially provide an insulative layer between my space and the truck bed side. Ultimately, it IS just for camping, and I sleep plenty warm in a 0° sleeping bag, sometimes aided by a 12V electric blanket, so I don't NEED the space to remain at a livable temperature all night long. And it's only part of the year when the nights get cold enough to be an issue. When I got the aluminum cap, my comments sections quickly filled with a chorus of cries to insulate it, and since it was cheap and simple, I was willing to give it a shot. But that's definitely as far as I'm taking it. :-)

[@conniewaite1996]

You did a great job! I would cover that silver lining with canvas,or painters drop cloth.looks like a space ship!

[@jonvenden4284]

There is another product out there that builders have never heard of. If I was going to panel the inside it would be polymax. It goes down to 1/16 of an inch which that wouldn't interfere with head room and follow the contour because this comes as a roll. The negative is it looks like industrial room. This also goes up to 1/2 inch also. These would be walls around hockey rinks, used in horse stalls, used in milk rooms. Made of recycled material. Rot proof, uv stable, and resistant chemicals. It is resistant to chewing on it. My main reason of interest is the ability to not have to deal with rot and or water. If you want to see what that looks like you can get it from Farm Tek.

[@willng682]

For your fan connect to an USB Thermal trigger, or thermostat control. For my truck I have the USB fan connect to the thermal trigger, when it gets too hot inside it would automatically turn on to pull the heat out. I live in Florida, by doing this it helped a lot.

[@johnwalker3263]

I like your diy videos because they are very well thought out. So many KZbin videos are all just about drilling holes and slapping products on. I really enjoy seeing what you’ve come up with and how you’ve completed a task with limited tools and budget. Thanks for the great content! You might consider painting the roof of the canopy white as well, it makes a big difference!

[@JeffBreyer]

I love your build and I love that someone is doing this all with a Frontier.

[@danhohman]

My first observation as I watched you do this install is wow, you’ve got the patience of a saint! I may not be remembering correctly put it seems like the sound quality of your audio inside the canopy is nicer. Less echo.

[@masonstruckadventure9368]

This is really cool. You know even in well insulated RV's if your not running heat there just as cold as a freezer and as hot as an oven

[@colleendaniels6409]

Maybe I missed something, but unless you insulate the rest of the truck bed, you're really not going to notice a lot of difference when in the lower temps. The cold is just going to go through almost like an open window, as I'm sure you know how metal transfers the cold. But I really thought it would at least heat up the interior much faster since the heat (when you have it on) won't be simply "going through the roof." And as far as the summer heat, I think your best option is a maxxair, or similar, roof vent system. Anyways, that's my 2 cents, for what it's worth. Either way, I love the new buildout on the topper! Great idea!

[@troymilks7342]

They aren’t cheap, but a BedRug was a huge improvement to comfort to my Frontier bed camper. The cold bed metal is a big heat sink that will draw the heat off of you.

[@johnhuff393]

Good morning from Godley Texas, thanks for the update on the rebuild. We will all learn from your journey. Stay safe 😎

[@Vandemonium]

Thanks for the mention and link! Wow, that’s a really neatly-done install, I loved how you made it fit the curved corners 👍

[@softroadingthewest]

Thanks David! I sure appreciated your detailed and well thought out take on insulating, it absolutely influenced my approach here. :-)

[@jkklmidkiff]

Have you seen the “cool coat” roof coatings. One I believe is called Henry’s Tropicool. I have been told these type products are used on school bus roofs here In Texas. It may help reflect away some heat from the roof in summer.

[@BirdPhish]

I just insulated the front box on my trailer that houses my fridge and lithium battery... hopefully keep the Lithium battery warm in the cold so it can take a charge....used the 1" thick pink board and covered it all with Reflectix to protect and seal it off.

[@michaelspurling4376]

Funny that you should mention David of the Vandemonium channel as he was the one who introduced me to your channel.

[@todgunter]

I understand being reluctant about losing anymore height inside your cap, but adding a layer of 1/4" Ensolite (closed cell foam) over your excellent insulation job, will help with mitigating the thermal bridging on the aluminum frame. Use double-stick tape to adhere the foam in place.

[@sandycoutu8846]

Looks great and it probably does make a difference. I would carpet the roof and maybe insulate the sides of the body of the truck bed and maybe a tile floor. The bump out was brilliant. Enjoy all your hard work .

[@yooperdog]

Nice job, we got a 6x10 cargo trailer, and I only insulated roof and underneath no walls. We run a Dickinson marine heater sparingly and it does awesome. The foil back in your build looks good. Industrial ⚙️

[@lostman65]

not blown away? lol that’s exactly how i felt after insulating my van. after having it insulated for over a year now, i wouldn’t hesitate to do it again. i bought an infrared thermometer at home depot, and started finding cold spots. the floor was the worst! i ended up buying some foam checker plate mats at HD. it reduced the surface temp of the floor by 10 degrees! i would recommend speaker carpet for the walls. it’s very velcro friendly material.

[@softroadingthewest]

Oooh clever...velcroability could be super useful!

[@kennb.3389]

Excellent Job. Great Info. Covering windows with Refletix would help ! Your cap is actually better than Airstream Insulation. There will be days and situations were you will really appreciate your work and effort ! Looks awesome.

[@softroadingthewest]

I should have mentioned that I do have window coverings. Granted, not Reflectix, but I have curtains that fit pretty snugly on the side windows, and coroplast panels that fit into the front & rear windows. These do make a noticeable difference (and I did have them in place those three nights I slept in the insulated cap). I am sure that on any given night, the insulation and window coverings are helping the interior stay a few degrees warmer than it would be without them, but a few degrees warmer than 25° is still pretty dang cold, heh. :-)

[@kennb.3389]

@@softroadingthewest Sounds like your'e prepared. Think i'm past camping below 60 deg.

[@robertphillips93]

I had a truck topper insulated with foam board and covered with riveted fiberglass reinforced panels. Though it was challenging to put up single-handed, the year-round temperature mitigation was very good. If your electric capacity is sufficient, you might want to look at marine heaters used to prevent unwanted condensation. Smaller AC units draw about 70W continuous and work via radiant heating of exposed surfaces. Your tubular framework (uncovered) would be an ideal target -- it's only necessary to get it above the dew point . . .

[@softroadingthewest]

Interesting. I had to look that up, I was not aware of these. I do feel like with the right heat system - especially something that keeps the space somewhat warm all night - condensation would become a non-issue. But I'm still a long ways from having that piece figured out. 70 watts over a 6-hour night would make a pretty hefty dent in my power supply, but on the flip side, I generally don't have to power the fridge at all on those nights. Hmm...might have to give that a try, I'm really curious to know if it would do the trick.

[@sagebrushbob2321]

You're doing fine. Don't worry too much about how long it will take. What's important is doing the job right according to your needs. Like they say, "There's never enough time to do the job right, but it seems like there is always enough time to fix things when you screw it up". Everything will get done when it's done.

[@kevintrevors3921]

Are you familiar with a Bedrug. They are pretty nice and seal off the bottom and walls of the bed. They zipper together and are durable, made from marine carpet with a foam backing. I had a couple and really liked them.

[@kellycostello2930]

I used speaker box carpet in my build, easy to work with cause it stretch’s and looks good and you can use Velcro to stick things to the wall, keep up the good work!

[@LoganJohnsonWA]

Solid advice!

[@OpieDogie]

I think we agree in our logic that yeah, we do want to try to make it a little more comfortable but in reality, it’s to camp in. I have a travel trailer that is all comfy and cozy but in reality, we spend most of our time outside while camping anyways. Great job on the insulation.

[@04JALD]

Everything you do are really good ideas and you actually do good work. Great video again Donald

[@tuckerportlock33]

Looks killer coming from an hvac guy! Digging the ideas you’ve got coming out man!

[@JN-mu5vi]

great idea,i might get rid of my cab height fiberglass topper and go with one like you have.i also have a nissan frontier,but i have the long box with extended cab,i put a bed rug in mine,it is good insolation and so nice to crawl on.it was spendy but worth it for the knees.

[@pellcio]

An idea I have seen to help with the "thermal bridging" is to have your cap maker (Leer?) make a secondary roof over the top. The contact to your roof would be minimal and it would also serve a shade from the sun in Summer time. Land Rover did this on some of their Safari editions, which was painted white regardless of car color. Another thought is to use radiant heating for the floor using 1/4" (5/16") copper tubing under a thin wood sheet like luan. How you could heat, and possibly cool, and circulate it, I have no idea. Yet.

[@nicholask7347]

For condensation I just secured a piece of painters drop cloth to the roof with velcro I sewed in. I then remove in the morning and let it dry out.

[@mojavedesertsonorandesert9531]

I have the exact same topper, and I have some of this stuff in storage, going to give this a try. Thnx for the video.

[@vincentsmalley3073]

Very very nice job !! Looks perfect

[@garycloud9631]

Thanks for this video. I have an 8' metal cap on my truck and I'm all too familiar with the cold condensation issues. I have considered doing what you have done just haven't done it yet. The video has proved quite helpful to me.

[@ethanoltean]

Glad I found this channel, I have a frontier and my wife has a forester, loads of great content.

[@softroadingthewest]

That sounds like an excellent stable, sir! :-)

[@nita6495]

Thanks for the video. We've been looking at insulation for the Suburban. Nice to see feedback on options.

[@christophermapes5176]

Great idea and technique! One thing about the thermal bridging is to maybe drill tiny holes in the aluminum tubing, maybe with about 12" spacing - with the holes' diameter only large enough that would allow that Great Stuff tube to fit inside, fill the holes and allow it to expand out of the holes, cut and trim off after it dried completely!

[@sandrablackmore9610]

I am a new subscriber thanks to David John 😊who had good things to say about your channel. I was pleased to see him in this Vllog. I will enjoy going back to watch your previous videos from here in Ohio USA. Oh and thank you for the clarification in the comment section about your window treatments.

[@TXH1138]

a layer of Reflectix over the top, covering the beams would probably make a big difference and you really wouldn't lose much space.

[@softroadingthewest]

Good point, that wouldn't really impact my headroom and in fact might have the added benefit of providing some cushion for those times I raise my head without thinking and thunk into one of those aluminum crossmembers! :-)

[@lenward474]

Looks great worth the effort and the tape is worth way more than you think. Stops air movement,it's a metal box.. great look too.

[@chuckrf1502]

You are very creative Donald, and you explain things thoroughly. Keep us posted! Loving your Frontier.

[@GunPilot3000]

Fantastic look! A nice rug on floor would tie the "room" together.

[@StacySalmans]

Nice work Donald.

[@Edward.Mucklow]

i like it, planning to do the same thing to 08 Titan

[@EricPeterson-e5n]

Very interesting. I'm debating right now of whether to buy a fiberglass or aluminum shell for my truck/camper

[@johndej]

Thank you! This was very helpful. My camper is just like yours in its construction with the internal aluminum frame. However, the entire surface is lined with gray carpet material. I'll have to do some more research on this, but it seems like taking all of that out isn't going to help much. Thanks again!

[@tk45440]

That is a pro job sir. Great work!

[@JarenMorris_UnderHover]

Great video Donald. I think the biggest point you will notice a difference is with continuous heat and the ability to run something like a diesel heater at a lower setting. And in the summer with radiant heat off the roof and sides. Plus as you mentioned, simply knocking the condensation out is a huge win. Another bonus is sound, should make it a touch quieter in there too

[@joydavis1670]

This looks amazing. Thankyou for sharing so much

[@joycejohnson1396]

It’s looking good Donald.

[@lessiewood5812]

Good info. Thank you for your great video. Keep up the good work. Happy trails and stay safe.

[@erichughes9098]

Looks like you did a nice job 😎👍

[@lloydmarche3058]

Nice , very well done. An exhaust fan will make a huge difference . I plan to set up my enclosed trailer in a similar way.

[@charleendunn5446]

That looks great! Very neatly done.

[@gldsmith61]

Man that is a great idea and it looks great.

[@fh21169]

Really liking the build and that you are keeping the general use of the truck. I remolded a small teardrop trailer and didn’t want to take a bunch of room with a headliner but didn’t want to feel like I was hanging out in the Pink Panthers Den.. wound up using canvas drop cloth I got at my local home improvement store. It was relatively inexpensive and the natural look had kind of a warming affect. You can also use Marine Apoxsee on the canvas to seal the roof and the walls to give another layer of sealer. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out and more overland videos. Cheers, Fred

[@krpotter57]

It's looking great. Good solutions!

[@bntravelin2]

MASSIVE improvement

[@rael6_4wd]

A great choice. I used this same material to insulate my roll up shop door. And the foil tape works incredibly well. This should really make a big difference.

[@Oregontrailblazin]

Way to go ! I think I would use the space above with maybe a bed that raises up and down. make benches under it for storage and platform and Inside seating on those wet times .Thanks !

[@JoshuaJoshua0]

Nice job! I'm planning on doing something similar but I'm going to use EVA foam as the interior skin (over the rigid insulation and frame members). They use it for fishing boat decks. It's cheap, ranges from 3-6mm thick, and has fun designs like faux teak. I'm gonna try those foam puzzle mats for the floor.

[@gringo3009]

Nice job!

[@metaxaanabeer]

You are going to notice a big difference in condensation once you install the fan. If I were you I'd ponder long and hard on installing the fan top center of the cap and putting a closable vent into the bottom of the bump out. More efficient and you don't have to close or open or crack a window then. We are in markedly similar weather to you, northern Vancouver Island so even a bit colder but you do want to remove moist interior air and replace it with the much dryer outside air. In a controlled manner.

[@softroadingthewest]

I'm definitely putting the fan in the top of the bump out and not the cap itself. It'll still draw from the uppermost air in the cap, but that way doesn't add any height to the vehicle and won't snag low hanging branches - and it saves me from cutting a warranty-voiding hole in the roof of my cap. :-) I wouldn't have thought of the vent in the bottom of the bump-out...good idea.

[@thomasquigley7040]

Great project. Have you thought of a vinyl marine-type headliner? The smooth finish will make any residual condensation easier to wipe than with a carpet finish. It also has an ever-so-thin insulative backing to help with the thermal bridging. You're right about it not helping as much through the night. Insulation slows the heat buildup/loss. It will slow the cooling of the space overnight but after a few hours you'll still reach equilibrium. You may notice it heats up faster and use less fuel though. Same thing with the heat of the day. It'll slow the heat gain as the canopy bakes in the sun, but after 8+ hours, it'll be hot. You just might have to be more proactive in circulating cool evening air through the windows and doors to offset the slowed radiant cooling of the shell itself. Insulating the floor will have a tangible benefit. Think of when you are tenting. You can have a great winter rated bag, but if you don't have a good R-value sleeping pad, you'll be cold. Even 1/2" foam with marine ply on top will help with heat loss and noise dampening. I'm really enjoying following your build out and thought processes. Keep it up.

[@kylesaab]

JoAnnes fabric store sells headliner material!!!!!!

[@TheAdventureZombie]

I love all the disclaimers in the beginning, I bet that saves a lot of question answering, haha! Most of your heat loss in cold weather is probably any door cracks, and of course the single pane glass is a huge thermal loss. That being said, it turned out great man. I like the bump out, you really thought that one out.

[@cherylmartin4050]

I feel ya bro on the sound.

[@vibeofadventure]

That fitting process is very much satisfying to watch lol... everything fits so perfectly.

[@ecaso]

Looks very cleanly done! A thin outdoor carpet liner would look great and could just be tacked or glued to the insulation without having to drill holes in the aluminum frame. The sound of cutting the insulation was bad enough just watching the video..definitely a headphone situation!

[@jeffmorris739]

You still have windows that will allow cold to pernitrate. Many van campers use a heavy curtain to seal off the driving area because of the windows. I am sure you thought of this already. I really enjoy your DIY projects and have built some of them for myself.

[@softroadingthewest]

I should have mentioned that I do have window coverings. I forget that not everyone watches every one of my videos. :-) I have curtains that fit pretty snugly on the side windows, and coroplast panels that fit into the front & rear windows. These do make a noticeable difference (and I did have them in place those three nights I slept in the insulated cap).

[@gilbert7794]

I used carpet spray with a headlining type of material and good thick curtains as you loose a lot of heat through the glass

[@softroadingthewest]

I should have mentioned that I do have window coverings. I forget that not everyone watches every one of my videos. :-) I have curtains that fit pretty snugly on the side windows, and coroplast panels that fit into the front & rear windows. These do make a noticeable difference (and I did have them in place those three nights I slept in the insulated cap).

[@genesisj2918]

Looks great! Really appreciate your videos.

[@brianvandy4002]

Heat option. A few tea candles, a couple bricks, and a clay pot. put the clay pot upside down on the bricks and slide the lit tea candles under it. The candles will heat the clay and it will give off heat for a while after you remove the candles.

[@black_widow_overland]

Very cool. I think once you put a headliner, carpet it’ll help. Great build. Safe travels

[@softroadingthewest]

I think so too. Not sure I will get to that this season with everything else that still needs to be done, but I think it's gonna be on the To Do list for next fall.

[@jessyboyer2861]

Omg i was like hey squirrel !! 🤣

[@madcratebuilder]

3M trim tape may help if any panels come loose. On really cold nights I sure wish I could add some R value to my softopper. It looks warm and cozy.

[@natew2610]

You could put a layer of reflectix over your iso. This would provide a bit of thermal break while only being 5/16th of an inch.

[@steveng54]

Others probably mentioned using 1/4" foam backed vinyl headliner?

[@jayjohnson7827]

Have you seen any of Davids "Cruising The Cut" Vids?

[@softroadingthewest]

I have! I put a link to that channel in the description actually. :-)

[@gerryhartung736]

Forget the viewers, build it your way. I like the pop out. Most of your campouts will be summer anyway.do your sides still open?

[@softroadingthewest]

The side windows both still function as usual, yes.

[@raysiebert6758]

Nice build. I recently go an aluminium canopy, and thinking of similar ideas. Maybe try to figure out a type of screen door or covering, that would allow leaving the door open in the summer time, to help cool it down.

[@marcericdavis]

I think a cloth lining would help with the condensation. The condensation will still happen but the cloth will absorb it and keep drips from forming. Fiberglass boats have teh same issue in berth areas and the thin carpet they glue to the walls and sealing really helps in this way. To save weight, you might just do the ceiling since that's where drips are most problematic.

[@swidahooverlanding2867]

Looks good! You are going to loose a lot of heat through those single pane windows though. If you have some of the insulation left you could make some window coverings to help at night. You might take a look at indoor/outdoor carpeting to panel the inside of the shell with. It is easy to cut, is fairly rigid in itself, and would help a bit more with insulation and condensation. It also looks nice. I use it quite a bit on my builds. I find the black indoor/outdoor carpet at HD to be my favorite to work with. Fill those tubes with spray in foam insulation. Give me a call if you want some pointers. George.

[@softroadingthewest]

I do have window coverings, and they do make a difference for sure. I love the indoor/outdoor carpet idea...this seems much easier to handle, would bring a nicer finished look to the space, and it seems like it would eliminate the opportunity for condensation to form on those frame members without really eating into my space at all. Thanks George!

[@swidahooverlanding2867]

@@softroadingthewest No problem. Hope it works out for you.

[@nibs9945]

Very good video & explanation of the insulation process. In regards to the thermal bridge concern, could holes be drilled in the struts & the struts be foam filled or filled as best as can in lieu of adding an additional layer?

[@MichaelMauldinExplores]

Well done!

[@850OVERLAND]

Dude I swear I was listening to you then saw that big ass critter run by I was like wtf was that?? 🤣🤣🤣

[@clifford_overland]

You camped with Jason and Megan!?! Wow that's crazy I just did too, bummer I missed you🤣 Serious tho, it really is turning out great, love the bump out!

[@Blue.Crawler]

Looks great! Glad you taped it up. You might want to consider a Reflectix or aluminum wrapped double bubble insulation layer to help with the radiant heat and condensation prior to a headliner. While it is only R1 or so it can help in the summer heat. You could also use it under a flooring if you decide to do that.

[@softroadingthewest]

My understanding from my research is that Reflectix only works as a radiant barrier if there is some kind of airspace in front of it...something to do with the physics of infrared light? The consensus across most sources state that it's ineffective if it's sandwiched in contact with other materials. I haven't experimented with it at all so I don't have any firsthand knowledge of this either way.

[@OutNAboutWithBrad]

Heat moves to cold in the never ending quest for equalisation. The windows and metal frame are literally sucking the heat out of your truck. A few improvements would be the floor needs insulation too. A layer of taped/sealed reflectix would really minimise the thermal bridges of the frame, and some reflectix panels cut out to the window size and tucked in the frame would slow heat loss through the windows. Insulation only slows the flow of energy from hot to cold so if there's not much being produced inside, what is inside will move out, the thicker the insulation and less thermal bridges, the slower the energy moves. There's little thermal mass inside the truck so it should cool down in the summer when you open the windows. On the topic of thermal mass, grab a couple of hot rocks from the campfire and chuck them in a pan for when you go to bed. With the insulation and reduced thermal bridges, I'd bet you'd notice much slower temperature changes.

[@clarkleakins879]

Thanks for showing and explaining your basic insulation. Yeah, that "thermal bridge" in can not be prevented due to the shell design. Perhaps thin strips of foam quarter inch wider than the ribs, double stick tape to the ribs, before/under the foil tape, would have reduced the thermal bridge? You might want to consider/think, the truck bed itself provides no insulation. Perhaps insulate the bed walls, floor? Although this will probably improve comfort only in cold/winter. Definitely need to insulate/cover the windows. The same one inch, oversize, velcro to the inside frame? Roof vent for summer? Do your side windows open? Just use a small fan on the windows. Dark color camper will get hot, even with moderate warm temperatures. Maybe consider/design framework to support/hold dense green house sunblock fabric above/draped outside over the sides of the shell?

[@EricPeterson-e5n]

My concern would be if moisture got behind there and mold ended up developing in-between. But I love your idea

[@dvonehrlich]

Hey a new hat to go with the new insulation. I think you should lay some foam and carpet down on the floor to get some real insulation gains, just a thought.

[@Peter-xtreme]

This is a really nice project that is throwing up some unexpected outcomes, thanks for the detail. The windows would be letting in a lot of cold, but obviously you need ventilation. Perhaps some sort of window tint or reflective panel could help with that on the window glass, not much you can do with the opening itself I guess. Anyhow it's an interesting project and I like the way you explain your thought processes.

[@softroadingthewest]

I should have mentioned that I do have window coverings. I forget that not everyone watches every one of my videos. :-) I have curtains that fit pretty snugly on the side windows, and coroplast panels that fit into the front & rear windows. These do make a noticeable difference (and I did have them in place those three nights I slept in the insulated cap).

[@conniewaite1996]

Puzzle piece floor squares made of foam might help.