Rigid Reaming a Rifle Chamber. Omni-Adjustable Rigid Reamer holder. Drews Precision Process Update!

[@1320pass]

Changing it up. Improving the process. 👌

[@DustinDrews1]

That is exactly what we are doing! Expect another video soon about our new chuck system we designed exclusively for chambering rifles. The after chambering about 100 or so barrels with this system i can confidently say this was the missing link in our process. Thanks for watching!

[@rosalindstewart7013]

Great work and fantastic idea, I’d love to learn how to do all this, it fascinates me, cheers Yogi ✌️🇦🇺

[@DustinDrews1]

Thanks for the kind words

[@CorwinBos]

Nice work Drew. That reamer holder is genius.

[@DustinDrews1]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@rauloswalt4319]

Really nice work. I really appreciate your videos.

[@DustinDrews1]

Thank you very much! Glad you enjoyed them

[@swamper2fly]

I don't think he sleeps much with all that thinking /inventing going on. Nice work Dustin

[@DustinDrews1]

It’s all done out of frustrations with common industry methods. Thanks for the kind words

[@snafu250]

@@DustinDrews1 You have this down to a science, fantastic work.

[@brandonvalerio6666]

Great video! Would you be willing to share the item numbers for the tool holders and inserts?

[@DustinDrews1]

Holders are Kenametal boring bar is iscar

[@TheScottybr]

I like it but seems that measuring for runout using a dial indicator as shown is a mute point as the rigid reamer would act like a boring bar. There is no give so it would cut concentricly no matter if it was on center or a smidge off. Seems you would have to measure the chamber diameter instead to see if it was cut oversized? Maybe you thought of this or have some way to measure this or confirm that it isn't? Great idea. I may try it. Thanks.

[@DustinDrews1]

You are correct. You have to ensure it is square to the bore. That being said all the floating reamers on the market only float radially. Not angularity So if you’re not lined up perfectly parallel to the bore with a floating reamer the same thing happens. But no one thinks of this being an issue because it has the word float in it

[@TheScottybr]

@@DustinDrews1 Haha! I never see some of the old timers that keep telling me to use something like the "bald eagle" reamer holder because of the "feel" - ever post their runount on youtube for all to see. Keep up the good work! Have you thought about making your adjustable reamer holder out of a shank like Gavin uses and just putting 8 screws (4 front and 4 back) in it for adjustment?

[@47dodgeguy]

Very nice work. It takes a bit more time, but I think this is the only true method to deal with any and all alignment issues except for maybe one so I will ask.... I see that the shank end of the reamer is held solidly. But how do you deal with the .0002"-.0003" clearance/play between the pilot bushing ID and the nose of the reamer? Although small, this gap can create an inconsistency when the indicator is run around the pilot bushing when you're shooting for .0001"-.0000" accuracy. Your bushing can also have .0001"-.0003" or more of eccentricity. Manson for instance, states that eccentricity of their bushings should be .0002" or less, but that's still enough movement to induce some error into your indicator reading. Or am I over-thinking it? Again, a very solid and logical design.

[@DustinDrews1]

You’re over thinking it. The next chamber video will be using a reamer without a bushing. If you have everything dialed in perfect to the bore you don’t need a pilot

[@47dodgeguy]

@@DustinDrews1 Fair enough. So having some play at the bushing, say .0002", has no effect and should be considered perfect? That's great. I guess I was over thinking it. Thanks for the reply. Looking forward to that video.

[@greatdane3343]

Nice one mate 👍 Did you bore the Morse taper holder in situ, using the lathe spindle?

[@DustinDrews1]

No I just took a pile of measurements and milled it to sit flush and on center

[@1slipery42]

did you check the bracket for sag? clamp to round stock zero on top the roll 180 and see reading on the bottom, to see amount of sag.

[@DustinDrews1]

The bracket is extremely rigid. We have to draw the line somewhere. Short of using laser eyes and such I’m not sure what else a person could do to take this measurement.

[@FullSendPrecision]

I will cut a chamfer the same angle as the reamer shoulder - when I started doing that it eliminated any chatter/singing I got when starting the reamer.

[@DustinDrews1]

That makes sense! Using the case taper with these new basically strait walled cases. It don’t leave any room for error.

[@johnseptien3138]

Drew, you added the plus .002" to depth of cut for final reamer cut, total .009" on the final cut. .001" for crush and.001" headspace. You check go-gauge (good), then sdd .002" tape (bolt wont drop) and its good. Now thats all in the lathe, (hand tight) with no torque spec.. what ft/lbf are you using? This is not a hunting rifle i assume, and there has been on two occasions when ive run headspace of .001" where multiple factory ammo manufacturer wont chamber because of SAAMI ammo tolerance. Have you ever had to go back and add reamer depth? Do you always get consistent "crush" at your torque pressue?

[@DustinDrews1]

This is all action dependent…. This is a high end action with no removable recoil lug. I get very little crush with them. But on like a factory 700 that has not been trued and has a factory recoil lug. I use .003 to .0035 deep for the stacking of tolerances. Thanks for watching

[@kyley808]

Whats the best reamer to get for 6.5 Creedmoor pls

[@DustinDrews1]

A sharp one… I like Manson myself

[@FullSendPrecision]

Part numbers for that little boring bar?

[@DustinDrews1]

MGSIR 06-06W HOLDER

[@EagleEyeShooting]

Also look into 6mm Pico tooling boring bars. MSCDirect

[@user-xr8hc6cp9w]

What’s the name of the boring bar

[@DustinDrews1]

Iscar

[@poorboy6988]

Great video - one small comment though - I don't think its a good idea to use the threads to test your reamer's run out. It would be best to design a tapered bar that would fit into the bore itself that could hold the indicators. How can you be sure that the tops of the threads are all within .000x" of each other (remember we are talking tenths here).. ? Anyway just thinking out loud here.

[@poorboy6988]

Take a look at McMaster-Carr at threaded taper pins. That is the direction that I would look at. Any way just a suggestion.

[@DustinDrews1]

You are not thinking about this correctly… The threads have nothing to do with anything with indicating the reamer. The spindle of the lathe is turning around the reamer. The barrel just makes a simple place you clamp the indicator jig to. I could clamp it to the chuck and it wouldn’t matter… it all turns with the barrel any runout will be in the lathes bearings.

[@DustinDrews1]

You’re not understanding it correctly…

[@greatdane3343]

You can mount the indicators on anything that turns with the spindle, it doesn't matter.

[@potlimit2002]

A lot of flaws in this guys logic. 1st of all he is chucking with a 4 jaw chuck directly on the area to be machined. For the barrel to be held ridged there has to a certain amount of chucking pressure. So when he un chucks that barrel there goes his so called perfect roundness! Even steel is elastic, see Robin Renzetti’s videos, he clearly explains this fact. # 2 he is using Interapid test indicator which are notorious for SAG! Simply reading the directions that come with these indicators is all in has to do to verify this. Lots of threads on the practical machinist website discussing this known fact. Master barrel maker William Large chambered barrels using a steady rest with precision roller bearings. To this day it’s the proven most accurate way. This guys barrels may shoot great but when people make perfect roundness and TIR claims I call BS!

[@DustinDrews1]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts. But When turning long or slender workpieces on a lathe, many machinists might assume using a steady rest is the best way to support the part. However, in many cases, clamping the part directly into the chuck without a steady rest is actually better. Here’s why: 1. Improved Accuracy: Using a steady rest introduces potential points of error due to misalignment. By clamping directly into the chuck, you’re securing the workpiece more rigidly and reducing the chances of deflection, which leads to better precision and tighter tolerances. 2. Consistent Surface Finish: With a steady rest, the pressure applied by the rollers or jaws can cause marks or deformities on the surface, especially on delicate materials. Clamping directly into the chuck eliminates this problem, allowing for a smoother and more uniform finish across the entire workpiece. 3. No Interruption in Cutting Path: Steady rests can obstruct the cutting tool’s path, forcing you to stop and reposition the part or tool. By skipping the steady rest, you avoid these interruptions, saving time and ensuring a continuous and uninterrupted cut. 4. Reduced Setup Time: Aligning a steady rest properly takes time and effort, especially when working with multiple diameters or shapes along the length of the part. Clamping directly into the chuck simplifies setup, reduces complexity, and speeds up the process. While there are situations where a steady rest is necessary (for extremely long parts or those with very thin diameters), for most applications, securing your part directly in the chuck is more efficient and yields better results. And I would bet money that If we used any type of measuring equipment that you could arrange. My methods would have less runout than using the steady rest method chambering method. God Bless, Dustin

[@billweber1340]

Looks good, except your method of alignment for the reamer is totally wrong. As a toolmaker, we are taught that everything has droop. But a magnetic base on one end of parallel and the test indicator on the other end. Zero the test indicator. Flip it upside down and the dial will change because the setup is flexing or 'drooping' You'll easily get 10 - 20 microns droop. As toolmakers, we have sneaky little tricks to get around this problem. Nice to see you had a go. I can see what you've tried to do, but sorry. Fail.

[@DustinDrews1]

Have you ever chambered a rifle in your life? Do you have any way to personally measure 20 Microns in a chamber? Do you know how much a floating reamer holder droops when you remove it from the chamber? Thanks for the comment! It helps my channel grow

[@billweber1340]

@DustinDrews1 Dustin, I do my own chambering. Yes, measuring a micron is easy, I use a micron indicator daily as part of my work. It's an essential tool aligning jigs for jig grinding. I'm not disagreeing with ridged reaming, it's the only way to get an accurate hole but it requires a very accurate setup. I disagree with how you set your indactors up. It's not an accurate method. It would take less than a quarter if an ounce of pressure to deflect the bar in your setup and it definitely weighs more than a quarter of an ounce which means gravity is going to deflect the bar and skew your readings. Otherwise your stuff isn't too bad.

[@DustinDrews1]

Isn’t to bad, i will take that as a compliment. Thanks for your input have a blessed holiday season