Rikon 3061 Resawing Tutorial

[@debandmike3380]

finally a video where somebody is pushing the wood through with the tail the push block. The right way.

[@richkilgallen9920]

I sure appreciate your putting this video together. Recently, I purchased this saw and these videos have conveyed a wealth of information. Thanks!

[@PascalHarvey-v1t]

Just bought one ! Thank you so much. Extremely useful video ! Have a nice day !

[@paulnye1899]

Hats off to you. Resawing that board with a 1/4" blade. I have a 1/2' Timber Wolf 4 tooth blade I use exclusively for all my resawing. I never thought to try with a thinner blade. Nice video.

[@GeorgeLowrey]

Great video! I have this bandsaw. Timber Wolf makes a blade for this saw that is specifically designed for resawing, available from Woodcraft for $30.00, which is $$$$$.. 70-1/2" x 1/2" x 2/3 TPI. According to Timber Wolf: "The VPC (Variable Positive Claw) design used for the blade is designed for straight-line resawing in small to large boards, kiln and air dry, up to 12” wide. The variable pitch, positive claw, tooth design reduces resonance throughout the blade by using different size teeth, which produces a very clean finish almost polishing the wood as it cuts." I've ordered one of these blades and will report back on its performance.

[@GeorgeLowrey]

Miles: I became frustrated with the fence for this bandsaw so I looked for an alternative. I settled on a 24" PRO Grip straight edge clamp available from Amazon ($35.00) with a PRO Grip fence attachment available from Infinity. ($30.00). The straight edge clamp grips the table in both front and back and is rock solid. The fence attachment is square to the table, rock solid, and taller than the stock fence. I've been very pleased with this solution. I wonder if there is a user group somewhere for this popular bandsaw. It would benefit us all to have one where we could share tips and tricks. Thanks for your excellent video! GL

[@jimcarter4929]

Thanks your tips made me like my saw.

[@Membee]

FYI, Milescraft make a featherboard (1407 DT) that comes with both 5/8 and 3/4 guides for mitre slots.

[@CanadianCitizenshipTestKit]

Beat me to it! I haven't used it often, but it works as designed.

[@moldyzucchinis3251]

same with BOW

[@WilliamSchulze-g6s]

Excellent video. On page 10 of the manual, I think it shows that washer on the Hex.Socket Head Cap Screw M6x30 and wing nut M6 that holds the table together goes underneath the table. Otherwise the head of the screw sits proud. I have the Rikon 10-305 and am going to upgrade to this model for the extra h.p. and the features that you illustrated so well in this video.

[@MMWoodworking]

Thanks. Someone else mentioned. It doesn't sit proud, but I added one under and over, and unfortunately there was no change in twist. the tables are level where the screw is. I think there is just some twist in the cast iron. Nothing fatal, but a bit.

[@f87eeiiie]

The manual suggests that to make the fence square to the mitre slot, loosen the two hex screws that are accessed inside the blue fence holder (box with the two black knobs). You can access them from the top of the box. Mine was 1/8" out of square and this was easily corrected by loosening the fence holder box, squaring it up and retightening.

[@TheSMEAC]

Thank you for the video; do you have another version somewhere with louder audio?

[@MMWoodworking]

I don't. I apologize for that, as at the time I didn't even know you could make audio louder than it was when it was filmed. I have been learning iMovie as I go, so a lot of the earlier stuff is pretty rough. I have been upping it in my newer videos.

[@cialibrown4493]

Could have shown part of the resawing

[@richkilgallen9920]

Could be that your table’s two halves are not ‘leveling up’ because the washer that you remind us to be careful not to lose should be below the table, accompanying the knob. It bears the part number 126 in the exploded view of the machine in the back of the manual.

[@MMWoodworking]

Interesting. I just gave it a shot and it helped some at the back of the table, where the washer is, but the gap has always been biggest right at the blade point, where you enter onto the insert. I'm not sure anything, outside of some attempted dead-blow mallet hits - which I am not courageous enough to do - will get it level near the insert. I really appreciate the tip, it did help towards the back. I will investigate that manual more.

[@MMWoodworking]

- Setting table to 90 with blade 9:40-13:00 - Setting fence square 14:06-19:11 Don't use the stock blade to resaw... just, don't do it. Buy an Olsen 3/8 or 1/2in, 3 to 6 TPI, .025 thickness blade. They are under usually under $20 on Amazon, and make a big difference.

[@patriciakelly1635]

How would this saw do cutting compound cuts over 2 inches? I do scrollsaw work but the capacity is only 2 inches so im looking for a benchtop bandsaw capable of compound cuts up to 4 inches.

[@MMWoodworking]

By compound cut, do you mean something like a bevel and miter at the same time? So tilting the saw table to say, 45, then making a miter jig at some angle, like 35? .... Ok, so I decided to just test this. I put the table at thirty, then ran a piece of 2x4 flipped on it's side (its the closest thing I could do to get a piece close to 4in tall, so about 3.5in) and then braced it on a square, and ran it through with no issue. There are some caveats... First, I don't have any piece of hardwood thick enough to try this, but it would likely just be slower. A fresh, sharp blade will be needed to go through hard, hard woods. Second, you may need a lower tooth blade to do this easily, so your cut will not be unbelievably smooth like some scroll saw blades cut. I can't comment on how something like a 14 tpi blade would do, but it was fine with a 6 TPI blade, which is a general purpose blade. Third, you lose height if your piece goes further and further to the left, towards the inside of the saw. If I tilt the table at 30, and if you do all the way to the left of the table, you only have about 2 3/4 to 3 in of room. It fits 4in up to about 5in to the left/inside of the blade. The table is angling up, so naturally you lose height the more you go to the left, up the table. I hope this makes sense. If you want to cut really wide/long pieces that are 4in thick, further to to the left of the blade, you will need a bigger bandsaw, with more height between the table and wheel housing. You have up to 5in to the right of the blade, and no limit on length. Fourth - There is no miter gauge that comes with the saw. I think Rikon sells one, but you can easily make jigs if you need a set angle over and over. I also free handed one through and it was a bit harder to control, as the table is slanted away, but it cut fine. So, just be aware that you will either need to purchase their gauge (their miter slot is an odd size, 5/8in wide x 1/4 deep) or make your own jig. I hope this helps, and makes sense.

[@patriciakelly1635]

Thank you! I bought one

[@MMWoodworking]

@@patriciakelly1635 I have a feeling you will really enjoy it. If you have any questions, let me know. Make sure to buy some aftermarket blades, the stock one is lacking. I suggest Olsen for a budget blade, but there are even nicer, albeit it more expensive ones, out there too.

[@georgekost7967]

Potentially very helpful... but do you know what any of the names are for the machine parts? I was annoyed over and over again by you using pronouns ("this" or "that") when referring to something that needs to be adjusted instead of naming the part explicitly. Sometimes the hand-waving that is intended to point to the part in question is even off-screen. Be specific!

[@MMWoodworking]

Thanks for the feedback. I am still working on a balance between detail and time of video, as I get pushback from both sides, with some people annoyed at the length, and others wanting even more detail. I will keep this in mind for the future. I shouldn't have assumed that everyone watching knew what I was talking about when I reference certain parts or mechanisms. Thanks again. Cheers.