When does TRAD Climbing become a HIGHBALL? | Scary Climbing Experience

[@JoBianco]

Robbie, just some feedback here: I'd really appreciate a video on how you set up your ropes. I often see you working a route and I'm thinking "Hmm, I wonder what that is connected to? What's the anchor? How is he using that shunt? Why now a grigri? Is that an anchor off a bush or some passive gear?" Something I admire is your ability to work an overhanging route on some kind of solo device. Could you walk us through it? Thanks.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Hey Joseph, Certainly! A video is in the pipeline to talk this stuff through, but just to answer very quickly.... The anchor is always bomber, sometimes its a combo of trees, a steak, rock (nuts + Cams) etc... I don't use a GriGri to ascend whilst climbing ever... I've tried it a few times and it doesn't work well for me (also I just don't like the idea of drilling into the device to make it suitable for that use hahaha) - I do however use the GriGri to descend, or ascend the rope sometimes when cleaning. The shunt I have used a lot historically, but I think less so going forward... The jury is still out on why it is failing for some - I suspect its more user error, but I'm using the TazLov3 at the moment which seems better... however haven't had a chance to test it on anything steep yet, which is really important for me as you know. The shunt has been my goto for years and Ive never had an issue - I use 10.5mm Edelrid Performance static rope and a maillon to connect it to the belay loop. But thats not saying that it couldn't fail... but we can't say that about anything really? I'll do a video soon going over all this, but before I do, I would like to test the TazLov3 a bit more, because I feel it has the potential to be a really great device for this sort of work

[@JoBianco]

@@RobbiePhillips Thanks for the thoughts and I'll look forward to the video. Regarding the Shunt, I wrote Yann about it and he agreed that with a back up, the shunt can be perfectly safe. He made it fail by flipping it upside down, but it seems hard to do. I use a rope man 2 as a back up and it seems reasonable enough. I agree, there is a risk to everything, more risk to driving to the climb than climbing. Though apparently Dave disagrees with the ankle breaking potential of that highball (I tend to agree with Dave). I like the shunt personally. You can test the Tazlov3, but googling it, it's like over 300 dollars, which for most of us, is out of our price point. I appreciate your thoughts, your work and editing. You make great videos. Midtbo is doing something right, but I'm not sure what it is. Maybe taking his shirt off lol? Don't do that. One day I'll make it back to Scotland to climb, the country is beautiful.

[@JoBianco]

Just had another thought. I bet you can't make the shunt fail if you put it through two ropes rather than one. The two ropes would prevent the ability to release when inverted. Test it!

[@RobbiePhillips]

@@JoBianco Hahaha what did Dave say about ankle breaking on the highball? I don't think its a dangerous highball either... certainly not compared to others ive done of similar (and harder) technical level - the ground is flat and the fall is straight and clean. But initially neither me nor Dave were sure in what style we'd do it... then Dave decided early on he'd lead it because he has dodgy ankles from surgery, and I decided I'd highball it because I felt it just wouldn't have been that challenging leading it for me. Once you get the gear in, it's super safe, and the top moves although they were hardish, I wouldnt have felt nervous on it - I wanted a challenge, which the fear part of things provides. Agree on TazLOv3! expensive! and yeah, two ropes is probably very safe... Ive never tested it to see how smooth it runs though... I can certainly give it a go!

[@JoBianco]

​@@RobbiePhillips On the video you linked, direct quote from Dave, "You could highball this, but after one too many ankle surgeries, highballing is not something I do anymore." lol

[@davidemendeni9421]

That slippery foot at the end...😂😂😂 congrats!

[@RobbiePhillips]

Haha thanks! Might have had a wee accident… 💩

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

@@RobbiePhillips And you were just about to celebrate 😳

[@RobbiePhillips]

@@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 HAHA! "YEa...... AHHHHHHH!!!!"

[@climbermacleod]

13:50 Post send Meringues? Well in.

[@RobbiePhillips]

With a big scoop of salted caramel ice cream 🍨 for recovery! Those Glycogen stores don’t replenish themselves 😜

[@climbermacleod]

@@RobbiePhillips Aye well, that'll cover it for sure!

[@JoBianco]

@@climbermacleod No glycogen for you Dave ;-)

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

@@RobbiePhillips Actually, as Dave can assure you, they do ;) (No-carb party pooper here)

[@alvaroc6326]

Nothing like damp highballing. Keep crushing mate.

[@sethgilbertson2474]

Both you and Dave are gonna be like Steve McClure...legendary yet humble and understated.

[@sma91dc78]

not sure robbie is very understated lol

[@RobbiePhillips]

Is it the Hawaiian shirts that give me away?

[@justineichler1510]

When I saw the foot slip, I thought, oh shit…the end of this video is going to be Robbie speaking to the camera from a hospital bed. Nice send dude!

[@RobbiePhillips]

Haha luckily the hold I had with my right was a jug

[@JoBianco]

Woohooo, another Dave Macleod special!

[@emurray100]

Dave's laugh at the end... priceless! Nice job!

[@RobbiePhillips]

Ahhh that wasn’t Dave, that was the legendary local of Strathnairn, Rob Thomas. He’s developed a lot of the region for bouldering and was kind enough to meet me for the day, lug 2 pads up, and even with a bad back. They’re made of tough stuff up there!

[@danhoyle8503]

What on earth do you have weighting down the shunt rope?? It looks like you nicked a sheep and tied it on for a couple hours 😂 Nice ascent by the way. Gotta love it when the conditions come right for the send

[@RobbiePhillips]

Hahahaa I think it’s just my bag 😂

[@bazwax77]

Well done young man! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿💪🏻🔥

[@RobbiePhillips]

Cheers Baz!!!

[@johnparla6252]

There is a nice cliff near youcon in Caneticut this cliffs are 30 to 45 feet I just climb them with out ropes

[@marcostorchi2752]

Well done Robbie! 💪🏻

[@RobbiePhillips]

Thanks man!

[@dabbleonabike]

Another great video, well done!

[@RobbiePhillips]

Thanks man

[@GregSidberry]

Thanks for the projecting beta and nice send! For TRS personally prefer the ct roll n lock or if down climbing the camp goblin. Not a fan of the microtrax and refuse to own petzl shunts, but every device has failure modes / drawbacks. Maybe just advise folks of the risks of TRS w/ shunt.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Thanks man. Yeah I do usually in the comments. I’m in the process of making a video about my systems which should hopefully clear up any thoughts people have.

[@thisis27characters]

6:23 - 7:18 Robbie describes almost all hard boulder problems

[@HouseOfAirSF]

I like the ethical question this poses though, When does a line become not worth it to bolt? Theres a crag in the Bay where i live called the Egg. Its an oddly shaped slab bloc. One side faces the ocean and its face is about 60 ft high with a bunch of stout, but safe sport routes . The side facing the hillside is only about 30 ft tall. Theres about 6, 3 bolt routes on that face but you essentially have to solo to the 3rd bolt because youd 100% deck if you fell before clipping the 3rd. Personally I dont get why it was even bolted. Its almost more dangerous having the 3 bolts versus bringing out 4 pads...

[@johnparla6252]

Ken nickels dose not like bolts no bolts 😉

[@robertcreer8826]

It's a fine line

[@Thrusthamster]

Robbie getting philosophical with this title

[@RobbiePhillips]

Climbers are all philosophers at heart… but we tackle the BIG questions! Like, boulder pads or no boulder pads, or is pre-clipping the first bolt cheating… or can you REALLY take that 9c tick if you used knee pads!?

[@Thrusthamster]

@@RobbiePhillips Some people are claiming jamming gloves are cheating now. This aggression will not stand, man

[@richardh3913]

Awesome job

[@damienmitchell9828]

Personally I think, what the climb is depends on the individual's ability

[@RobbiePhillips]

True!!!

[@paulmitchell5349]

That left hand stretch just below the top looks horrendous for non lankers.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Nah it’s not… Dave didn’t seem to struggle with it at all. Think he put his foot up earlier than me, that’s all.

[@andrewbmaher9443]

holy fuck the slip at the end

[@RobbiePhillips]

I know… 💩

[@louis3954]

Hey i just had a quick question what are some good climbing pants for indoor/outdoor Rock climbing

[@RobbiePhillips]

I’m wearing the new Patagonia Venga pants for most things, but they aren’t coming out until Spring. But I also really like the new AltVia Alpine Pants - they are super stretchy and lightweight and great for bouldering/sport/trad. Only thing is they don’t protect much from the wind, but other than that they’re brilliant

[@louis3954]

@@RobbiePhillips Thank you so much!

[@Straffan]

Where is wingman Culann? Missing the bromance

[@RobbiePhillips]

Ahhh Culann left to go back home 🇮🇪 in June after he broke his leg, then moved to Bristol with his gf. Living at the polar opposite side of the country makes doing trips together more challenging

[@alejand5]

Just curious, why you both use the shunt for top rope soloing and not a pulley?

[@RobbiePhillips]

Assume you mean a micro traction (not a pulley?). It’s just one other method of ascending a rope. See the other comment about this - there’s a bit of a discussion there about it :)

[@MF-CLIMB]

When Dave Macleod says so?

[@RobbiePhillips]

So this is a trad climb then… does my ascent still count or should I go back and tie in for the lead? 🤣

[@MF-CLIMB]

@@RobbiePhillips just say to yourself ‘what would Dave do’ and you’ll have your answer 😂

[@Bennici]

@@RobbiePhillips Place gear on lead, don't clip it, then clean on the downclimb. It's the only true style of ascent!

[@McGirr5799]

Lots of faith in that shunt

[@barnabejoyau]

Lots of experience ;)

[@RobbiePhillips]

Bit of both 😁 I am aware of the recent accidents with shunts, and although I would still use shunts in certain situations, I am in favour of other devices for most of my rope solo climbing. Thanks to a friend I’ve recently been using the TazLov3 which I’ve been enjoying a lot - not used it on anything hard or steep yet though so the jury is still out in whether it works as well as shunts/spots/micro trax for me. It’s obvs impossible to tell, but 10:37 in the video is me using a TazLov3

[@McGirr5799]

@@RobbiePhillips fair fair, I use to use a shunt for my solo rig but opted for the microtrax. everyone has a system that works for themselves

[@RobbiePhillips]

I had a micro trax fail on me, and I’ve never had a shunt fail... interestingly enough, I stopped using MicroTrax after that incident for a while and started using a shunt again because I felt the shunt was safer. All these devices have limitations, we can only try our best to use them in the safest way possible.

[@wolant1090]

@@RobbiePhillips did your edelrid spoc or microtrax fail? may I ask you how? (cause I am used to using micro..) thanks

[@TheSafeToast]

How tall are you Robbie??

[@RobbiePhillips]

Just under 6ft, think 182cm

[@whywhenwhere4377]

Something becomes a highball when you don’t climb with a rope and you think it’s high

[@RobbiePhillips]

True!