Robo R2 3D Printer First Impressions

[@SpardaKnightz]

That print that was messed up, is the filament tube clip. i talked to robo they said there was a mistake in the model, it was updated a few days ago and should print fine now. I had the same issue.

[@bobbybradley8165]

Thank you for doing these videos! I've been watching this machine for a long time, and the feedback about your interactions with the company and development of this product is invaluable.

[@willywgb]

I have had nothing but good results with my Robo R2. The Company has also been very good looking after the two small snags I had with this Printer. It produces good prints which are on par with the other Printers I own. (Shipping Damage) The Printer arrived with a broken door hinge which Robo quickly shipped a replacement. Had a issue with the Pogo Pins for the Heated Bed. The Pogo Pins are spring loaded Pins that connect to the underside of the Print Bed and supply power to the Heater. Robo was great helping me troubleshoot this issue and quickly sent a replaced Heated Bed. I am very happy with my Robo R2 and would not hesitate purchasing another Printer from this Company. Cheers Willy

[@jacquesnell6501]

This is how you do a review, no sugar coating, nice job :)

[@jasongram1287]

Surface texture: Can you check if the belts are tooth down or tooth up on the idler pulleys? The texture looks like what I get on my Prusa with tooth down on the pulleys, and my texturing matches the teeth on the belt perfectly.

[@DonDegidio]

Joel, Thanks for that honest review.

[@waldoiswhere]

The funny surface texture I believe is related to acceleration values used in Marlin. There are a lot of people on Robo's forum that are having ringing problems. Lowering the maximum and default acceleration values down between 300 to 500 greatly improves surface quality. There are a couple of very smart people on the forum that have used the post processing scripts in S3Dv4 and changed their sliced g-code to use acceleration of 300 for the perimeters and 1500 for the infill. This of course makes perimeter printing a bit slower but not overall printing.

[@jonah_herring]

I have a older printer by ROBO 3D could you lead me to the steps to do this ?

[@AndrewSmith-nk9kf]

I slowed the move speed( in between moves where it's moving to a new location) because I felt it was as moving to fast and even though in theory it shouldn't matter how fast a move like that goes, there is always going to be vibrations from the start and stops of it. I use slicer and it has controls for this so you don't really need simplify 3d to adjust it.

[@jonah_herring]

Well I have Simplify 3D and I have had it for a while does it have a setting for acceleration?

[@AndrewSmith-nk9kf]

Douglas Speaks I would say being as slicer is free and simplify 3d isn't that it would have the same features and more than slicer but I don't have it. Slicer breaks down print, filament, and printer settings I don't have my computer on right now but slicer has this settings in with the print speeds settings. So I would just say go into your settings and look for anything related to your layer speed and it should be around the same area

[@WaltonPete]

WheresWaldo I use a LulzBot Mini which runs Marlin firmware and I don't get ringing problems. You can't blame the firmware type it's down to the specific values either 'hard' coded into the firmware or the slicer settings. It can also be a design issue but as such can be rectified in firmware / software as is probably the case here. Because the build platform is only supported and driven at one end vibrations are bound to occur the further the nozzle gets from the supported end of the build platform, hence the potential for undulations in the finished prints. Changes made to the Z-axis, and probably other axes, drive motor acceleration and deceleration can reduce or mitigate these effects at the expense of overall printing speed which is far easier and cheaper than the cost of an additional motor, drive train and supports.

[@PutTheKettleOnGromit]

Hey Joel The clicking could be the PLA is softening in the exttuder before it gets to the nozzle. The noise itself is the stepper motor unable to push the PLA. I have seen this before with some PLAs with the Raise3D. Polymaker Polmax is best for the Raise3D as it's softening temperature is slightly higher. Also the layer shifting could be the material curling upand the nozzle banging into it when it travel across the print. I use Z-hop / Z-lift / Z-retation distance ( depending on your slicer) to a height slightly greater than your layer height.Great videos Mate! Keep it up. I print with a CR-10 at home and A Raise3D N2 Plus at work.

[@WhereNerdyisCool]

Joel I notice I get weird artifacts when using OctoPrint at times. I was advised to use a USB cord with a ferrite core to reduce noise. Obviously we can't see inside that big box but I thought it was worth sharing. (For best results in just using SD cards and OctoPrint to monitor)

[@Repkord]

I appreciate the fact that you try to always see the good in things and don't just jump on the "trash and burn" bandwagon that many do in an attempt to grab attention for their videos. It is a bit disappointing that a company as developed as Robo would release this without first addressing some of these more serious issues, but I am encouraged to hear that they are being responsive and fixing things. My hope is that they are indeed being responsive to ALL customers and not just you as a prime influencer in the community. All in all I'd say you did a great job of giving it a fair shake in your first impressions, I look forward to hearing more on how things progress. #higfive

[@wow3dprinter760]

I agree with you

[@Ned_Figglehorn]

"If you throw it at someone, its going to hurt them immensely." Haha, great way of explaining how sturdy it is Joel.

[@Mirandorl]

If you had layer shifting, why not suspect a loose belt? I had it really badly, and I THOUGHT upping the temp had helped, but it was a placebo - I got lucky with that print. Eventually i found loose grub screws in my x axis drive drum (prusa i3 mk2s) and that fixed it all

[@wsingleton74]

I have the same sunburst ringing in all my prints and tollerance issues on my small prints as well. The bearings in the extruder caridge has cut deep grooves in both sets of the Y and X axis on my R2. Filled out the online claim about a week ago and still waiting for an initial reply.

[@ChelsCCT]

Here's my issue as to why 'getting there' just isn't enough. I agree that this printer shouldn't have been released. You shouldnt be releasing a printer that you KNOW has issues like that. For everyone that purchased this machine on Kickstarter for $1200-$1500 should NOT have to fix the sort of things that are wrong with it. This was marketed as a "Plug and Print" machine, and at the state it is in now, it is not. Very poor decisions on the companies part. Thanks Joel for an honest first impressions. My experiences have all been the same.

[@SuperLuckyLad]

Chels... count your blessings ... it is kickstarter ... and you actually got a machine... your points are right though.

[@ChelsCCT]

SuperLuckyLad it's a Kickstarter from a company who has made 2 other machines...and we still waited like 6 months longer than we were suppose to. With making two other machines, they should have the experience to know almost all of these issues should have been fixed before they even thought about sending out half assed machines with known issues to the people that have supported them. Let alone, continuing to ship machines to retailers with a $1500 price tag with issues that will potentially have to have new parts bought from robo to then fix the printer yourself.

[@SuperLuckyLad]

Chels.. you are even more right now. Thanks for the info, I don't pay much attention to kickstarter myself and just the price alone would have put me off , even if it was a good machine.

[@cucubits]

$1500 + still take a bit to get where it should be = my old old old UMO still prints just as fine.

[@SuperLuckyLad]

cucu... Little Jack Horner Sat in the corner, Eating a Christmas pie; He put in his thumb, And pulled out a plum, And said, "What a good boy am I!" ... LOL

[@RoBo3DPrinter1]

Hi All, This is Braydon, the Co-Founder of Robo. I just want to thank Joel for the feedback in this video. As you all may or may not know, my co-founder and I started this company 4.5 years ago on a dining room table in a small apartment in San Diego. We have come a long way and are extremely proud of the new products we released. We are already improving from some of the feedback we have already received and fine tuning things around print settings to make sure all Robo R2/C2 users are getting outstanding quality and use out of the machines. Thanks again Joel! We appreciate you testing the product and look forward to keeping you up to date on everything in the near future.

[@SergioMDGomes]

Hey Braydon! What should R2 owners do to stay up to date on these improvements? Haven't seen any posts from Robo in the forums :-/

[@braydonmoreno686]

I will start getting more active in the forums for sure! I plan on it.

[@bartoszbos]

Robo continues their tradition of producing terrible products! From the virtually unusable R1 series, to this slapdash white-label frankenstein made by a cut rate factory in China. The R2 was announced YEARS ago, and the slackers at Robo couldn't pull their heads out of their asses long enough to know their product wasn't ready to ship. Instead of making a spectacle of "hand delivering" this wreck to Joel, perhaps Braydon could have spent some time actually running the company. You suck, Robo.You suck, the most.

[@bartoszbos]

Suuure you will.

[@braydonmoreno686]

Bartosz Bos thanks for your feedback. Wish you the best.

[@JeffDM]

I'm surprised they sent a review model when they knew they were still hadn't addressed known deficiencies. It looks & sounds like the texture is due to using an incorrect Rosc resistor so it's in the wrong decay mode for the motor and voltage used. I don't know what to think about the temperature settings. Different brands of plastic can have different temperature ranges and different thermistors from even the same brand and model type vary a bit, but 230˚C to get PLA to melt well seems like there's something wrong.

[@brianmitchell305]

The shipping issues are not fixed yet. However, Robo is standing behind their product so far even when UPS Gorillas cause the problem. UPS must pay them for how far they can throw the box. My recent shipment looked like it was rolled down a mountain (or two). I worry about anything you said Robo is working that is hardware related. Software can be updated but for the people who have existing hardware I doubt if Robo will be shipping replacement parts. I did get the Maker Muse part to print and work at .20". The Benchy look great (after z-axis fix) but overhangs seem to be a problem using the Robo PLA. Another concern is there are no replacement parts in the USA. My printer is being sent back tomorrow for a second time but again Robo is standing behind their product. By the way, I have not need any rafts/etc. for PLA. Everything sticks great but still can be removed easily. The bed scratches easily but you should not need a scraper. I have not tried ABS.

[@MiNiD33]

Kudos on printing the tolerance test, it's something that I'd like to see on all reviews

[@johnfel]

My Machine is not even a moth old got it on December 25, 2017 and the LED's that light up the cabinet are not working properly as when I first turned it on, on ones side only 1 LED from the strip is on and very dim and on the other side 3 LED's are on but very Dim also. Has any body got this problem and know how to fix it. Thank you for the tutorials really helps newbies like my self.

[@MakeItWithCalvin]

If this was a pre-production model I would cut them more slack but being it has been out a while... personally this is sad. It feels a lot like they tried but the delays in shipping meant they were in a panic and QC kinda went backburner :(...

[@mcdavta]

can anyone help me find that container at 3:55? thingiverse link or smthng. thanks

[@matthewferos]

Hi Joel. I just got a Tevo Tarantula and I'm looking to find the best filament for under 30 USD. Maybe you could do a video on it or just give a reply. BTW I'm looking to be able to ship to Australia for a reasonable cost. THANKS!

[@MrFenderbender87]

hey joel.. can u use all of your printers combined effort to print drogon's skull piece by piece?

[@northbeach8336]

The bar parts of the nautilus gear are super-tight for me as well. I think that's mostly a problem with the file being created with too-tight tolerances.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Hmm, that's entirely possible.

[@silverbullet126]

Keep us updated on this one. I had the original Kickstarter version of the Robo3D. I have an MK2s currently, but would be interested to see how this one does. ABS printing would be good to see too since the printer is enclosed. Also lets see one without a stupid raft :)

[@TheRideAhead]

Hey Joel.. the video was great but you are way off on the video of this machine having a metal frame. That is a video of the C2. The R2 is nothing like it because the R2 DOES NOT have a metal frame inside the Nylon housing. As far as Robo support, I had a couple of issues... I had to send it back for them to replace the touchscreen.... fast turnaround, they paid all shipping, then I had a bug which they got corrected by leading me right to the problem... quick fix, and I had a scuffed door which they shipped me a new one. I also wanted to add LED's in the top and they gave me the board pinouts and info for the best route to go. You just can't beat support like this in my opinion. I can live with a couple of bugs when they are breaking their back to keep me happy!

[@guyguybohurst3304]

Good for you. That however has not been the experience of everyone.

[@000-x4c4p]

Have Joel any change you could share the new fan shroud model you have?

[@Crits-Crafts]

my question, is the web cam a USB cam or the raspberry pi CSI camera?

[@MisterMakerNL]

I agree this printer has a lot of things right, only the last little things need to be fixed. Price is also for a good working printer with an enclosure pretty good.

[@SomePinkoCommie]

Joel, this printer has been in development since 2013 with the original release date promised in "Winter 2014".

[@SomePinkoCommie]

I don't have much useful to add but this machine from this company should not get kickstarter development slack in reviews just because they used kickstarter to raise capital for the initial production run.

[@das250250]

That throw away piece with support reminds me of hans solo encased ... could we call the piece "hans solo"?

[@tobiasalbrecht2407]

Can you make a preview of the Robo c2

[@bjsummerfield]

Were the files for the new fan duct posted somewhere?

[@matthewvassallo4316]

Where did you get the STL for the dragon? Thanks

[@moots27]

why buy this when you get a prusa? the only downside is the removable bed. You can make an enclousure your self really easily and replace the screen for a touch screen one for really cheap really easily.

[@AndrewSmith-nk9kf]

I wish prusa made an enclosure. That is really the only bad thing about mine, yes you can make one but a lot of people who buy what robo is trying to achieve is something you don't really have to mess with. I would rather have just had prusa have one that I could buy instead of making on myself and having to figure out what to use and the sizes etc. people are lazy. Plus really I doubt you can make an injection molding or sheet metal enclosure yourself that looks anywhere near what robos looks like without spending a lot of time or money in doing so.would I pay double what I paid for my prusa for an enclosure .... no but it does look better than the prusa in my opinion

[@thehappyextruder7178]

I created an enclosure for my Anet A8 and it only cost me 30 dollars.

[@Hanoveur]

For some folks, you might as well ask, "Why buy a table saw when you can make your own?" Some people would rather spend more time making things and less time tinkering with their printers. I put together a DIY Anet A8 and the only good thing that came out of it was I learned how 3D printers work. I spent more time trying to get it to work and less time doing any actual printing. You go to the groups and all you see are people talking about what they are going to do with their printer. It didn't even sound like they actually USED the printer for anything other than making parts for the printer. I understand that that love of tinkering, but I just wanted to make things. :) I ended up sending it back and getting a cheap R1+ from Fry's. I had more success with that within a single weekend than I had during a week with the ANET A8. But at least my experience with my A8 gave me the experience to maintain my R1+ :)

[@theotherhive]

You should check out the pallete filament splicer. I would love to see that.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

+Pi-Fi I have one, will show it on video soon :)

[@theotherhive]

3D Printing Nerd awesome!

[@RobertPoole]

Robo recently removed all mention of the dual-nozzle upgrade for the R2 from their website (although you can still see marketing materials that mention it on e.g. Amazon). So now they're promoting the Palette+ as their multicolor / multimaterial solution. Got to say, I'm a bit disappointed.

[@marksasaki8601]

Does the R2 have a top cover to keep the heat in for other plastics such as ABS?

[@girouxra1]

There is no top cover for the R2

[@redriche]

Hey Joel, thank you for finally putting this out there. I know I've asked for your thoughts a couple different times on the FB. I have had similar issues that you have described and it's good to know you feel there are improvements coming. I didn't see a link to the new fan shroud, are you allowed to share that or should I request it from Robo directly? Also did Braydon say how he resister issue may be addressed for those that have the machine already? My screen was also unresponsive and the HDMI adapter they used on the screen had come loose and fell out after doing initial troubleshooting, I had to send it back and will finally have it back this coming Tuesday. Keeping my fingers crossed it will be in working order. If you were to make a suggestion on my next machine? I think I want something that I can actually work on rather than have to send it back to the company for things like plugging the screen back in. I am leaning toward the CR-10 which you seemed to like, low cost big build volume and seems to produce very decent prints. Thank you again......Red

[@sean5729]

You should really check out the Qidi tech 1 it's a awesome 3d printer

[@boyteebah3794]

where is the Robo R2 manufactured? US or China?

[@3DPrintingNerd]

+boy teebah China at Foxcon

[@boyteebah3794]

I see... thanks...

[@yyh1002]

Machines with front door or enclosed chamber always have worse part cooling and overhang for PLA.

[@OhFishyFish]

You can buy TWO Prusas i3 MK3 for the price of this device, and they will both work silently and flawlessly.

[@guyguybohurst3304]

I wish that I had seen this video before I had made the big mistake of ordering the Robo3D R2 printer. I am a customer I do NOT like being used as a Beta tester. This is my second 3D Printer. I have a Robo3D R1+Plus and I love that printer. It dose everything that I have asked of it with flying colors. When I received the R1+Plus printer I hade it unboxed, set up and printing within 30 minutes of getting it into my house. Unlike the Robo3D R2 which has been nothing but a disappointment. Here it is almost 3 weeks later and It still will not correctly print the models from 3DLabPrint.com. It will not connect to my Wi-Fi no matter what I have done. I even set it right next to my Wi-Fi router. and It still will not connect. Their Technical support has said that It could be that I have the wrong Wi-Fi signal. Shouldn't just work regardless of the Wi-Fi signal type? So all of that so called connectivity dose not work. I can't use the built in camera or do any software updates. It seems to insist that I use rafts to print everything which is just a waste of time and filament. Then it gets the prints wrong. All of my mobile devises are android based and they didn't bother to make an android app for the R2 printer. So all of that is useless to me until they do. If I had taken the almost $1,300.00 that I paid for the R2 printer and boat a second Robo3D R1+Plus (for this price I could have purchased two more R1+Plus printers and still got a bunch of Filament to) and a lot more filament I would have been a lot further ahead. At this time as it stands If I could send the R2 back to Robo3D for a full refund That is what I would do. I can NOT recommend the Robo3D R2 printer to anyone. But I can and do highly recommend the R1+Plus to everyone. The R2 is simply not ready for release and No one should buy it until they fix all of it's problems. Once again I do not like being used as a Beta Tester!!!

[@andre267]

Sry to say this but on any Printer or other Devices there should be a Date where all Apps for Android & IOS released at the same time. And the stepper driver electronic issue should be detected before it will be shipped to Customers. At this price Tag there is only space for small issues like the fan shroud that can be fixed by releasing a printable Modifikation. But all in all it can be a realy cool Machine i belive. :)

[@GregAtlas]

Hey Joel, I'm another pacific northwestern and I'm building my first 3D printer from scratch very soon. Do you have any suggestions for budget PLA brands to get started with? PS: Sorry this question isn't in specific relation to the video.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

+Greg Atlas hey Greg! I've had good luck with Hatchbox PLA on Amazon!

[@GregAtlas]

Thank you very much! This should help me get started so I can have my friend 3D print the parts of the printer using his printer. I'd prefer PETG for that purpose, but he doesn't have a printer that can handle it unfortunately. Using the PLA, I should be able to get the parts temporarily made until I can remake them in PETG using my new printer! (At least, that's the goal anyways!)

[@JayPickles999]

How about an update on this printer? I bought an R2 and it's been a terrible experience all around. Wish I could get some actual help from the manufacturer

[@3DPrintingNerd]

+Jason I'm working on an update to this machine. Just trying to find the time.

[@JayPickles999]

3D Printing Nerd That's awesome I hope you find time soon! Lol being a semi 3d printing newb I think I picked the wrong machine. 🤔😑 Thanks for all your videos though I'm finding them very helpful along my journey.

[@HowardPrice]

This review is a little rough on the Robo. The raft gap can be set in Cura, nothing to do with the printer. The Piece that was garbage is a corrupt Gcode file. Tolerances again are more down to the settings in Cura than they are with the printer. I've printed Devan's Chromatic vase in your High5 PLA on my R2 and it's flawless, not a layer to be seen. The one thing I will agree with is that there are some issues with the touch screen. It's a little sluggish and if you get anything caught between it and the bezel it can become totally unresponsive. The fix is simple run a plastic pry tool around the screen to remove the debris and you're back in business. I've never had a layer shift issues caused by anything other than tangled filament. That would happen on any printer. Seems odd that both layer shift problems were with the purple filament you used. You only got extruder clicking on one filament and you said yourself that was down the temp. Every printer is different. Having to adjust settings to get things dialed in is normal. I think you're beefing too heavy on the printer when most of the issues you mentioned (touch screen and cooling excepted) could be fixed in Cura. Love your videos. Love this video! Just wanted to get this off my chest.

[@guyguybohurst3304]

So what if you do not Use Cura? I use Simplafy3D. I should NOT have to change to Cura to print out my model parts.

[@Acelryss]

In these cases, I know it will take more time, when a company wants to give you a new printer to test, ask them to ship it. What is the point to by a printer super cool but that is going to arrive broken. Believe me I live in Argentina South America and this is something to consider

[@JATMN]

This machine feels like it was rushed to production by what I have seen around social media and your thoughts on this first impression video.. I don't see this as a final product at all, it looks more like a very early prototype.. it appears they didn't really learn anything at all from the R1 Kickstarter.. this is very unfortunately.. it would be nice if they would start doing actual testing in house and stop releasing prototypes as final production to the general public. Get your act together Robo3D. Thanks for the video Joel, keep up the good work.

[@robotics_and_stuff]

I will stick with my CraftBot 2, that is a really good machine. I have it over 2 years now without a single problem!

[@WaltonPete]

Sounds like the product was hastened to market in order to satisfy the demands of either investors, banks or both. This is such a common occurrence, especially when R & D take longer than expected or something serious causes unexpected delays in the development process. They decide to fix certain 'issues' using software tweaks to avoid expensive redesign, only to discover it's not that easy to achieve the desired results that way or other physical issues appear because of the changes made to fix the first. They end up with a warehouse full of substandard product and they have a lot of damage limitation to do! This seems like a costly 3D printer considering what else is available and it doesn't appear to be living up to its plug and play credentials.

[@SomePinkoCommie]

Pete Allum this machine started development with an original promised ship date in winter *2014*. They had plenty of time to develop a machine that worked without caveats.

[@paulcumber4732]

Very cool how much

[@michaeld954]

what are food safe filaments

[@coryryker3305]

Michael D "Food safe" is a loaded term. The material is deemed food safe, but not the process. Even with a stainless nozzle you would still need a very clean environment. Even then, 3D printed objects have micro pores that will trap bacteria.

[@crussty3d]

Great analogy with the high school kid. Very apt description.

[@ImaginationToForm]

How did you get a hold of my grades?

[@sharkboy980]

they should add you to their team, with your knowledge you can remove all the flaws

[@HDThorUs]

It would fit sooo perfectly next to my white NZXT Manta! If only it had that price tag :/ But Joel, you and your friend at Robo can surely arrange a unit for me, can't you?! ;) I got my Tevo Tarantula to print damn near perfect, so this one will deliver amazing prints, I believe!

[@TheSecurity16]

I was almost sold at the fact you could throw it at someone and it would hurt them . Lost me at the price though .

[@edwardrangel8364]

Can you make something from a game with a 3d printer

[@MrDevolve]

Looks amazing. Hopefully the bugs can be ironed out.

[@shanebeasley8191]

If this printer uses a thermistor instead of a thermistat I would say it is using the wrong type, resulting in it reading an incorrect temperature... When you have it set to 235 it is more than likely actually only 200ish

[@markwilliams5654]

Good and honest review Joel thanks... u mite as well get a 150$ kit

[@mikelcastillograciarena490]

do you need a especial extruder for flexible filament?

[@tylergodfrey1238]

Hey can you update your orange banana app so us people on iOS 11 can still use it

[@Pitchlock8251]

Dam, I didn't realize the R2 was that big.

[@3DprintedLife]

Why are companies still pushing rafts? They only are beneficial in very small specific circumstances where the model has minimal bed contact. But even then, brims work infinitely better. People, stop using rafts!

[@MisterMakerNL]

Because rafts fix bed adhesion.

[@lmaoroflcopter]

3DprintedLife rafts make software based bed leveling possible.

[@liv04soccer]

I own 3 robo r1 plus machines and their support sucks it a shame because I really like the machine but their warranty sucks really bad. When I asked for a new fan their support team directed me to matterhackers for a replacement. Robo themselves should carry every screw and part for their own machine and not send me to another website to order parts. I've had 2 heated beds crack on me and it was under warranty but they made me pay to replace the heated bed even tho it was under the 6 months warranty. Which to me makes no sense. They should have a better warranty system for their machines because I don't plan on buying another robo anytime soon because of this service and that the r2 has almost the same dimensions as the r1. The R2 should have been a 12X12X12 dual extruder machine at this 1500 dollar price point. In my opinion they really dropped the ball on this new model.

[@matiaszermoglio9812]

3d print earbud holders, i recommend you the earbud holder v1 from thingiverse

[@willettfx]

I want one!

[@Hanoveur]

Might not be the worst printer, but I've had nothing but issues with it. I can vouch for the fact they released this too soon. There's a newer version they are selling now with a BuildTak bed that those of us who purchased early cant even get our hands on. Never be an early adopter of a Robo...that's all that really tells me.

[@lumberjackengineering2649]

There is no reason these days to release a half-baked machine at that price point. I can somewhat understand what happened with the R1, but all of the technology (software, hardware, firmware, etc) has matured since then and they really should have learned their lesson with the R1. Disappointing.

[@Neemy_85]

I considered buying this printer but the nail in the coffin for me was the lack of an Android compatible app. I now have a cr10 and I'm satisfied.

[@RobertPoole]

Rob Lauchlan the lack of an Android app is a bummer, but I discovered an app called Printoid that works very well. I bought Printoid Premium for about $7, and it works great with my Robo C2. Bonus: Printoid works with any OctoPrint instance. I'd still like an official app, but this is a decent solution.

[@memry1571]

I don't get it. What do people use these printers for? Surely not just for plastic "toys". Can it like input a photograph of my face and then print out my face mask? Just trying to understand why someone would want. How much are the plastic refills?

[@3DPrintingNerd]

+Mem mm nope, not just toys. Kids like toys though, so it's fun to print those to get kids interested in this technology. People are printing things that assist doctors, prosthetic limbs, spare parts that fix things, handy tools for around the house and shop, school projects, art pieces, and I used to print a lot of custom cookie cutters. Have you seen any other videos on my channel? I fixed my fridge by 3d printing a custom part. That was cool. Refills vary by type of plastic.

[@bluebravoguy1744]

Will they call the next printer the D2? Robo R2 D2?

[@ismatrashid1089]

Hey Joel!

[@inzane3d826]

3d printing Nerd this is nooot the formbot T-Rex 2 review ;) however still love it, much love from Cape Town South Africa

[@ImaginationToForm]

I'm looking forward to that printer as well.

[@IntrexinCustom]

I think it is good that they are replying to you about addressing those issues. But they really should of addressed those issues before they started selling them. I watched the live stream and he made such a big deal about the boxes and all the QC at factory and everything that went into this printer. But your issues are really ones that anybody who buys one will hit with every printer sold. I mean if their example prints cant print perfect then somebody wasn't paying attention. the issues you hit are common with diy kits and well those are $200 and we all know you get what you pay for. Now they will issue those fixes and the people who bought the first patch of them will be stuck with bad stuff. I was one of the first to buy a FT5 and got the the warped bed terrible bed. New ones come with a much much better bed. Printer companies need to really start putting out a solid product that isnt going to go through a million revisions and screw people who really are the backbone of getting these printers going through being a first batch buyer.

[@acopernic]

So for the price... I get a Prusa...

[@SomePinkoCommie]

Andre Cabezas 2 prusas with the MMU.

[@jasonbaker541]

Not a great machine for $1.5k but another gr eat Joel Video! I'd just buy 3 CR-10s! LOL. High Five!

[@UnlikelyCreators]

This printer really hurt the brand of Robo in my eyes.

[@dukemagus]

As it stands right now, no good. but an R3 would be a killer machine!

[@patrikmoller3643]

I really hope they step up their game from the R1, I got two of those in a deal and they sucked in every way, loud as f**k stepper motors, no trapezoid screws and everything just a bit loose and wiggly. They are now in a box named spare parts 😆

[@jackwood4228]

For the price of that unfinished printer, I'd rather get 3 creality-cr10's

[@codybond3078]

I now know de way

[@mp-zf4ur]

I like Robo. They listen.

[@Powie1965]

Why do you always look like you just climbed out of bed? Can't you print a comb? hahaha

[@oswaldjh]

Too many people just jam their power bricks out of sight with zero airflow. The engineer that signed off on a power brick with a fan should have his diploma set ablaze. Just wrap this diploma around the power brick under load and wait a few minutes.

[@RedneckStoriesr665]

Its kind of shameful that they release a printer that is full of bugs, and whats even worse is that they do it even tho they know its ful of small problems

[@adaptivetech8165]

Hey Joel I loved the video!! I'm gonna be with Glenn and Xander at makerfair hopefully so if you see us can we get your autograph and a hug lol.

[@markwilliams5654]

Print a cube and measure it

[@joetke]

Just compare this $1,500 printer to $375 CReality CR-10... Awful outputs for so much bucks? C'mon! what kind of "improvements" could change significantly things?

[@stefanweber4548]

print a r2d2 cover for the printer :D

[@loganfs5640]

$1500 for a printer that isn't even complete. No thanks. I can buy 2 mk2s that work right out of the box. Looks like they rushed this one and lost a lot of potential customers by doing so.

[@drew6017]

“Resistors on the stepper drivers” he says. That’s a load of crap if I’ve ever heard it. Don’t believe me, Google what a resistor is.

[@servalspots7133]

One could easily design a stepper driver that was brought down by some poor tolerance resistors. Does leave one to wonder why you would, though... Of course, it could just be a miscommunication somewhere along the line as well.

[@mathu-eq7mp]

oh my god you better get going on installing that power brick it may take you 30sec to plug it in.lol

[@cam_tech_arms2070]

MY THING IS ROBO 3D IS THE WORSE WITH Q AND A AND EVEN CUSTOMER SERVICE ENDED UP GETTING A R1 PLUS AND HAD ISSUES WITH IT AND YES I SPENT 75 BUCKS FOR IT AND DUMPED IN ALOT TO GET HER WORKING GOOD EVERY TIME I TRIED TO GET SOME HELP OR EVEN REPLACEMENT PARTS FOR THE FLAWED PARTS ON THE PRINTER LIKE THE LEAD SCREW ISSUES AND OVER HEATING ON THE BOARD THEY JUST TURNED A SMUG LOOK AND COULD GIVE A RATS ASS ABOUT THE CUSTOMER SO SPENDING 1500 FOR A FLAWED AND ISSUE FILLED PRINTER THEY NEED TO PULL IT AND START OVER AND FIX THE ISSUES BEFOR SCREWING OVER THE CUSTOMER BASE LIKE THEY HAVE DONE IN THE PAST

[@ricedmatt]

Cam_Tech_Arms First, turn off your caps lock. Second, use correct grammar. I know you’re frustrated but how did your R1+ have so many issues? Mine is literally the best 3D printer I’ve ever had (I’ve had a few) And it still works like new today even after 1500+ hrs.

[@cam_tech_arms2070]

Matthew813. ROBO 3D SUCKS!!! Parts are shitty cheaply made and can't even take the time to talk to customers with issues sorry if I struck a nerve and hurt ur feelings with the fact robo 3d just wants the money and not fix issues that come up can't swallow that pill bend over and stick it up your ass #ROBO3DBLOWSDOGSCOCK

[@joshc5339]

Lol I'm that kid 😂😂😂

[@CRJguy31]

Audio is really low.

[@WanderingEclipse]

First comment... Wasn't mine :(

[@ZTNET]

I do have an honest opinion about the R1+, I fucking hate that damn piece of crap. And seems that they still make crappy printers....