S5 E4. We do more testing on the custom gasoline electric club car DS golf cart 212 predator

[@tomleonard6177]

"this is a Chevy, so I am familiar with how much force it takes to push it..." 😂😂😂😂

[@robotcantina8957]

For most of last summer I had to push this truck around the shop until I got it sorted out. LOL,

[@krashanb5767]

Sounds like a good workout 😊​@@robotcantina8957

[@gojusulfam2387]

What's funny is that in France we have this expression: "Part en Renault, reviens en vélo" ("Go in a Renault, come back by bike"). I wonder if Chevrolets have the same kind of reputation on your side of the Atlantic?

[@Terran.Marine.2]

That belongs to Yugo

[@tunerrestorations]

As a Ford guy it could be worse you could be stuck pushing an old f150.

[@Ultimatebubs]

A Robot Cantina towing test with a 212cc Harbor Freight engine! Going back to the original roots of the channel. Love it.

[@SLeslie]

For those who wondering, this control method is called Ward Leonard control and was widely used in the past when high current semiconductor drives weren't available.

[@1toddstanton]

Love your videos. This should be called project "baby locomotive " . And thank you for installing that down pipe on the muffler. Now clock the steering wheel to dead center.

[@trentlewis1473]

I think he's saving that name for the diesel iteration of this project

[@PsRohrbaugh]

Your dc motor is limited by 1) wattage / temperature 2) RPM / bearings 3) high voltage arcing. No problem running it at 60v or more if it's not overheating. Install some thermocouples. I suspect you'd be fine running it at 60v as long as you aren't also trying to tow the truck at that speed. Your motor will face the same limitations if you use batteries or super capacitors to give it a lot of low end amps. Be nice to see some 400 amp 8 V wheel spin though...

[@robotcantina8957]

LOL, yeah 400 or more amps would be nice to test on our gravel parking lot.

[@thefirstmissinglink]

Yeah, voltage shouldn't be the deciding part.

[@59jm24]

The series motors may be operated at any voltage as long as the watt rating is not exceeded... heat is the concern they often are current/ time rated. Above 60 volts may be a problem. Speed may be increased with field current reduction with a resistor in parallel with the field windings.

[@dennisford2000]

Pwm ? Alternate between a short and winding at high frequency?

[@ghosttheoremproductions5469]

Issue: While it might have been done off-camera it is important to note that new brushes need to be bedded before use. This is even more critical if not first hand surfacing the flat brush ends to the curvature of the commutator. All your amp load is going to be passed through the brushes which are only making minimal contact when unbedded. Flat brush end vs curved commutator. High amp load before bedding will be the same as passing a lot of amps through a thin wire. Bedding starts with a very low load and slowly ramping it up over time. You will not have peak power or non-destructive performance until the flat brush ends have shaped themselves to the commutator. Unbedded brushes that see high amps will rapidly heat and be damaged while the commutator can end up annealed. Initial hand bedding is preferred and even then requires the amp-ramp process though it takes considerably less time.

[@Terran.Marine.2]

@@ghosttheoremproductions5469 can the brushes be removed and bedded to the old curve without removing the motor?

[@thefirstmissinglink]

Yup, probably cause for the underwhelming performance after dialing the PWM in.

[@dwartfarquart9590]

That swipe at the bowtie folks was a grin😅. Learning something every time Jimbo. Thanx again.

[@somedude2492]

For the arduino version, it'd be cool to add a coil temp gauge for the electric motor. Voltage won't kill the motor unless it heats up the coils and melts the insulation. Maybe even adding that datapoint to the arduino so it knows to roll back the power cap if the motor is getting hot would be a good idea. That way, you can have max power for acceleration pulls but you won't fry the motor doing the fuel economy runs at max throttle and running 60V through the poor coils...

[@scott8919]

10:50 I remember all the times my father and I had to drive our uncle back and forth to the Dodge dealership to get his 2000 Dakota fixed, either from electrical issues, mechanical issues, or recalls (they didn't do loaner cars at the time). The irony was that we owned a Hyundai Excel. That little heap of a car lasted longer than his Dodge.

[@robotcantina8957]

I have never been a fan of Chrysler products. The older ones actually seem to be built better, especially with a slant six and a manual transmission, but I still don't like them.

[@fromthebackofmymind]

I remember my 01 Dodge driving us all together to school, work, sports and trips and only having two issues in 12 years and 100,000 miles. One repaired by me. One a dealer recall. All the kids learned to drive in that car.

[@iceman45ification1]

Don't know why people would suggest putting a super capacitor in the system. That makes no sense at all. The only place that would make sense to me is like we used to use them in car audio setups back in the day. These days, with lithium batteries, they're all but done away with. I'm really loving how this golf cart turned out. It's a bummer you're going to have to give it up in the end. 😔 In any case, nice work, Jimbo! 💪🔥

[@robotcantina8957]

Indeed, the super cap idea makes no sense once you understand how the system works.

[@Terran.Marine.2]

@@iceman45ification1 it only makes sense for a ultra powerful spark, in my opinion.

[@joey66436]

The only place for a super capacitor in the system is a mechanical capacitor (heavy flywheel) on the predator.

[@thisnthat3530]

The only place I can think of putting one would be in place of the small battery, with a diode to 'fast charge' it from the motor power when driving.

[@earlwheelock7844]

Thanks 4 reminding me NOT to loan YOU MY drill!! 😲😆😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂!!

[@robotcantina8957]

OK, but can I borrow your chain saw? I have some metal I need to cut.

[@the0leman]

Thank you Jimbo for the entertainment and simple explaining. I'm an A&P Mechanic w/IA I've had coworkers all my life at one time or another to dumb down or stop overthinking. I've calmed since then, makes life so much easier.

[@robotcantina8957]

Thanks!

[@tracymalwitz4351]

Thank you! I appreciate all of you that make this. I'm going to duplicate your setup soon. I'll send a video of it when complete. Might be a bit longer than your project took. Thanks again!

[@theritsmancavequadfather8990]

I upped my 48txt to 60v with no issues other than better range and speed on standard wires and controller Still going strong

[@robotcantina8957]

Good to know! thanks!

[@Spudz76]

You might say this episode collected ampereical data.

[@robotcantina8957]

I see what you did there, LOL!

[@MrLongshot762]

You should incorporate a "tow/haul" button for when you need the low speed torque to pull something

[@RyanAumiller]

How about a "Mechanical Capacitor" as a flywheel directly driving the alternator. That would certainly fit the "petroleum battery" theme too...

[@dennisford2000]

You need to spin the alternator faster . The testing I did found that most cars are not peaking until 2500-3000 rpm, but they are generally twice the ratio of the pet bat engine

[@robotcantina8957]

The alt is spinning at 7600 RPM when the engine is at 3600 rpm

[@Head5hot81]

Thank you for explaining the flywheel issue! I figured it would store enough energy to restart the engine if it surpassed the 3kW. I plan on getting my Yerf Dog 2-seat go kart up and running again and this is helping with ideas on making it better. Thank you, Jimbo!

[@robotcantina8957]

You got it!

[@Iowa599]

Your (antique) S10 is amazingly clean!

[@robotcantina8957]

Thanks, Its a desert truck and is rust free. Super hard to find these days.

[@doraexplora9046]

Love this channel. The "Concepts from a engineer, with a funny bone!"

[@industrialmonk]

I personally like the simple system as it's cheap & easily made/repairable. All the computer control gear is to complex.

[@robotcantina8957]

Yes, the simple system is ideal, but we have reached the limit of what can be done and now we will try to squeeze a bit more power from the system.

[@felo2527]

You know it’s funny that I don’t understand a word your saying about measurements amps or what not, but I truly enjoy your videos!!!😂

[@robotcantina8957]

That's alright, just enjoy the ride!

[@kaydog890]

Your using the wrong you're

[@cthriftfl]

To get the armature off take the whole thing out, install brake hub backwards on the side closest to the brushes and back out the bolts holding the motor housing to the transmission ever so slightly and stand the whole thing up so that it's vertical. Pick it up and drop just slightly onto concrete so that the backwards brake hub hits the floor and it should come out.

[@BillyBob-uc9zp]

Bluetooth household extension lead next Jimbo!. Just faraday, dam my dixlectria, i meant for a day. Aether it will work and go as straight as an Arrow or it wont. Well done Jimbo. Keep up the good work 😎

[@robotcantina8957]

Thanks!

[@FilterYT]

Thank you.

[@rustyaxelrod]

How about a more powerful alternator? Oh yea, this alternator can stall the engine sooo. Ok, that and a larger engine! But,,we’re limiting the output now to save the electric motor so we need an upgrade there too. Ok, bigger everything or you can do your electronic wizardry and maximize the current set up. Looking forward to it. 👍

[@robotcantina8957]

Yes, at this point we need to use the magic of code to optimize the power.

[@genuismensa]

I wouldn't worry about the 59v to the armature. I would make sure I limited the field voltage. That is the part that I would worry about with over-volting. I have doubled the voltage on an electric motor and they run fine. The issue is really how much load you put on them. Voltage is what determines max speed. The heavier flywheel is actually a really good idea. In the IT world we use MASSIVE flywheel based UPS systems as the bridge between battery powered systems and the grid. They only store enough energy to handle about 15 sec of load which is enough time for the peak to mellow and then pass it over to the battery banks. It means we don't need to have nearly the same level of battery backups anymore to handle that huge surge in electrical demand. Those UPS have motor built into them and they spin back up to speed again and are ready to go. The idea is having so much mass that when the load hits, you don't dump all of your energy. That the flywheel is heavy enough to give up some of its potential energy into the system for a brief period and then it would be spun back up by the engine. A flywheel is the "capacitor" this setup. They work EXTREMELY WELL! At least do a few tests, it would make a lot of people happy lmao. I love this build and I cannot wait for the 2.0 version!!!

[@robotcantina8957]

Thanks for the input!

[@fookschool]

That brushed series wound motor can easily handle 72v without advancing the brush timing. Technically it can handle even higher than that with a few mods but you are more than good with that setup.

[@robotcantina8957]

Thanks!

[@fookschool]

@robotcantina8957 No problem, if there was anything to worry about, it would be the max amps you push through that motor. But you are nowhere near that limit either. Hard to tell from the quick shots across the label but I believe the max continuous for that motor should be 200amps and peak it should handle 500amps for short periods. Those motors are pretty hard to damage and can take a LOT of overvolting. Definitely stick with that 36v motor because the Kv on it is a lot higher so you can actually reach decent speeds at the voltages you are pushing on it. I was actually looking at making a hybrid generator using a pmdc motor and small gas engine and running it with a high load(80-90%) to squeeze out max efficiency (plus my off gid system is DC anyways so no conversions on the output). Generators tend to be ran in less than ideal loads so most people only get a few kwh/gallon max but if ran intermittent to top off a battery buffer, you can get 7+kwh/gallon out of the engine. I'd suggest trying to make the system on your golf cart to do the same but it would definitely cost a good chunk of change and have a lot more complexity. But that system if built right could have much higher performance AND great gas mileage (up to 2.5x what you were getting). Just don't use lead acid cells if you ever do. Use lifepo4 or sodium ion cells for the energy buffer which are cheap and not very picky chemistries.

[@livesteamfan1]

I had the same Club Car golf cart back in the 90s-2000s. It would keep up with cars doing the 20mph speed limit in the neighborhood, so I'm a little surprised you're down around 15mph. It had six 6v batteries, so the same 36v. Maybe a difference in tire size? I doubt they had different gear ratios for these. I want to say the cart was a 1987 model; we bought it second hand from the local golf course.

[@robotcantina8957]

Its hard to say, the tires we are using are a tiny bit larger that stock. From the research I did, the axle ratio has always been 12.2:1

[@geoffmolyneux9173]

When you increase the engine speed, you get more horsepower. So turn up the governor.then you can turn up power supply voltage to make better use of the horsepower. 😊

[@robotcantina8957]

Maximum hp is at 3600 rpm. after 3600 rpm the engine starts loosing hp.

[@sweetpigfarm3645]

This is like a "low buck garage" fix on the armatur, love it!

[@robotcantina8957]

LOL, indeed.

[@charleswelch249]

I think everything you do makes the gulf cart better each time.

[@benstrait333]

This is a fun project, I like that you're doing multiple reasons l iterations of it at different levels🤘

[@zyzzyva303]

I always learn something interesting. Thanks Jimbo.

[@ProDigit80]

18:43 if you want to lower the voltage and increase the amps, while also running faster just put bigger tires on it.

[@storytimewithunclekumaran5004]

Love this build and series....

[@monolyth1999]

Sounds like a stage 3 predator motor is in order.

[@danaleks5810]

38Km/h is absolutely enough Top Speed for a Golf Cart.

[@robotcantina8957]

Indeed, these things get sketchy at speed.

[@patrickradcliffe3837]

22:01 if the motor is not getting hot from the overclocking. It will be okay in longish bursts at 60volts. During the summer with higher ambient temperatures chances of burning a winding are much greater. It's really about amps and watts that'll cook a motor. After messing with motors and ESC's for radio control I learned this the hard way with cooked ESC and burnt windings.

[@koldphuzhun]

Good call. But simply put, it's amps that kill motors. I^2R dictates that the current increasing adds heat faster than any other factor. Increasing voltage has the effect of overcoming eddy currents so the armature can spin faster given the same current. But the thing to watch out for is that you don't overwhelm the winding insulation. Some are barely capable of holding in what they're rated for while others can triple or higher the voltage with no bad effects. It's all based on the manufacturing materials and techniques. But in his current configuration, the motor is far below its max rated current (maybe 300A?) and should survive summer temperatures easily.

[@GordonWillis-z8t]

You are sneaking up on using Blue, the screwdrivers are getting bigger (and bluer?), and did I hear a mention of Eric. Next thing will be Matt's elastic pulling do-hickies to pull the truck. I always enjoy the videos, lately they are semi technical but completely understandable. You make my and may others' Sundays a lot brighter.

[@robotcantina8957]

Good catch! I didn't realize I almost got Blue out of the tool box. The Eric reference was not the same Eric, LOL I actually have a friend named Eric, Although I have talked to "I do cars" Eric in the past.

[@martinfromseacity2010]

Thanks for the interesting info

[@robotcantina8957]

You're welcome!

[@Ziraya0]

Given the enhanced winter air cooling you have installed, it'd be interesting to revisit the voltage consideration if you still have this cart electrified once summer comes around

[@robotcantina8957]

Yeah, I will be interested to see what happens when its warmer. LOL, right now we can do silly things, but when it get hot, well I bet you can guess what will happen.

[@rolandmogle9671]

Thanks!

[@robotcantina8957]

Thank you so much!

[@lynnlandin7561]

I am familiar with model airplane applications of brushed motors. There is a wear in procedure for new motors where the motor is run no load on a reduced voltage so that the square end of the brush wears to match the curved surface of the commutator. Back in the days of over weight and under powered planes with nicad batteries powering inefficient brushed motors, the increase in motor power after this break-in procedure was very noticeable. Your golf cart motor has a larger diameter commutator than the 540 size can (7.2 volt 20 amp) model airplane motors so I guess the break-in period for new brushes would be shorter?

[@robotcantina8957]

I actually looked that up before doing the testing and I didn't see where it was recommended the golf cart brushes needed to be broke in. I think that probably a good idea but its not something the golf car people do.

[@ehsnils]

I wouldn't be too worried about the voltage to the electric motor. It's the current and rpm that are the the important factors. Also keep track on the temperature of the electric motor and limit the current if it's getting too warm because that could cook the windings.

[@georgehooper429]

Very informative video, well done. I’m surprised you have no snow this week. FYI: Please change the battery in your current meter, my OCD gets triggered each time I see the display. ;-) I know I’m jumping the gun here right into the complex system. From an arduino standpoint (and from the perspective of the pwm), it would be interesting to know the pwm waveform looks like a specific load (frequency, amplitude, and pulse width). If you knew the pwm waveform point at which the engine stalls, you could then create a pwm governor (not quite as drastic as the ignition kill rev limiter on a dragster though). Where you could create full power right up until the engine stalls and then cap the pwm signal just below the stall rate (a golf cart chassis dyno would help here). Also thinking that take off current is going to be higher than steady state current, this pwm governor could give you a faster top end speed since it wouldn't be linear like your hardware solution. It would be interesting to see if reality proves me right or um.. no so right.

[@robotcantina8957]

I'm not sure why the battery icon is flashing. the battery is brand new.

[@somethingelsehere8089]

@@robotcantina8957 Alkaline or NiMh? Perhaps it is unhappy with the lower voltage of the rechargeable batt?

[@robotcantina8957]

@@somethingelsehere8089 We are using a 9V alkaline, The meter is supposed to work fine at with this battery.

[@jamesgiovagnoli7754]

In the 1960's, my Dad made a power take-off system for vehicles with alternators. Basically, the regulator was jumped out, and 12 volts was connected directly to the brushes on the rotor. Depending on engine rpm, you could get 110v dc at 30 amps. He said you could run lights, power tools, and even jump start vehicles. I think you could use an external regulator, like the ones made for marine and heavy equipment, and get really good voltage regulation. Probably could vary the speed of the motor by controlling the alternator rotor voltage. Probably.

[@thatcheapguy525]

editorial notes: "the engine stalled," what's this? for a moment I thought there was an engine in this electric golf kart! "the gasoline battery safety overload tripped" 😁 far much more acurater. did anyone else notice John Wayne in the workshop using that big old bear file on the commutator? his posse must have tied up Jimbo in the toilet complete with the linishing belts 🤣

[@robotcantina8957]

LOL, Indeed, we tripped the "overload" on the petroleum battery.

[@minnesotatomcat]

Strong coffee, a left handed cig, and a new Robot Cantina video is my favorite way to start sundays! 🤣 love the joke about pushin Chevys around 👍

[@robotcantina8957]

Thanks! The coffee sounds awesome right now.

[@InfiniteLoop]

OMG, I just realized you are basically building a RC ESC from scratch and explaining it in Human.

[@jontscott]

Well you could replace the starting battery with a few super caps perhaps? Otherwise I agree, hard to find a place for it,

[@genuismensa]

I like to play with golf carts. If the armature doesn't come off, you remove the axle, you just lift it up and drop it. It turns it into a slide hammer. Watch people's video on KZbin. You just take the brake drum off and flip it, then and put the lug nuts back on. You need to lift it and drop the whole assembly like 3 or 4 ft. It sounds crazy but it will just rocket off the end if you do it right. You need something soft to catch it.

[@itchyomalley]

Another great video! (from somebody in the NE, envious of the condition of that S10)

[@robotcantina8957]

Thanks! The S10 is in great condition for an 89

[@daveynipples]

What would would happen if you tweaked the 212 governor for a few hundred more rpm, say, 4000rpm? Does the 212 top out on peak torque AND horsepower at the 3600 ish mark? Just curious if it has any more grunt in it with a few more revs. Also, they make timing keys to advance flywheel timing, would be a “cheap” method of maybe getting more power without going full on upgrades to motor. Great stuff, keep it up, Jimbo!

[@Blandy929]

What I came to say. Even an electronic solenoid for the throttle and tie it in with another pwm controller, bend the governor arm a bit, tune the carb and a bit of timing if possible.

[@pillagergaming]

3750 rpm thats what the generators run at no load

[@robotcantina8957]

The system is tuned to work at peak HP of the engine. After 3600 RPM the HP actually starts dropping off on a stock predator engine. We could squeeze more power from the engine, but typically that would require a free flowing exhaust and at that point we would have a lot more noise.

[@vladaad]

Excited for what you do with the Arduino. Might be a minority, but I love both the simpler mechanical and complex electronics parts of your projects.

[@robotcantina8957]

Thanks, more to come!

[@yodasbff3395]

Another good video, thanks for sharing 👍.

[@goosenotmaverick1156]

I'm late, Im late, for my very important..... Coffee and Cantina! Thanks Jimbo, can't wait to see what this week's video brings.

[@Yoshi-rq9xi]

Excited to see what you do with the Arduino! If it were me, I’d try to make the throttle a 0-3000W control independent of motor speed.

[@robotcantina8957]

The ardiono will monitor the voltage and current and limit the watts to 3000. That way we can regain the pulling power and get better acceleration.

[@joshg1244]

Really hope with the next stage you can just set the total output to be 3kw max so you can tow again and have quicker acceleration

[@robotcantina8957]

That's the exact plan!

[@markopole6941]

I really enjoy your videos thank you

[@robotcantina8957]

Thanks!

[@m1geo]

Nice one, Jimbo!

[@robotcantina8957]

Thank you kindly

[@NathansMoparGarage]

Driving in an endless search for the golf course.😂

[@rickey5353]

Any speculation on how the smallest Honda 2200, quiet generator could more efficiently power the DC motor?

[@robotcantina8957]

That's an inverter generator, Major modifications would have to be made to the 2200. plus its better suited for high voltage and low current. We need low voltage and high current.

[@SteveRoadcp]

Is the NOS (or alcohol) before or after the scale to complex system? Love watching these!

[@Gräsklipparmarodören]

i really like this system

[@robotcantina8957]

Thanks!

[@catherder77]

Jim, you could easily double your top speed with laminar flow racing stripe and a big spoiler.

[@robotcantina8957]

Yes! racing stripes would make this contraption dangerously fast.

[@darwinskeeper421]

I was surprised to find that you didn't have somebody in the truck. who could apply the brakes. I was concerned that the rolling resistance would be low enough that the truck would keep rolling after the golf kart stopped. I'm glad to know I was mistaken.

[@amandahugankiss4110]

your axle lathe reminds me of low buck garage. :)

[@robotcantina8957]

LOL, indeed its something you would normally expect on the Low buck garage channel.

[@bytesandbikes]

That's some great hillbilly work 🤠

[@themulesheriff3009]

Another great video 👍

[@robotcantina8957]

Thanks!

[@victorthecarguy3126]

I wonder about another version where you use a brushless dc motor as a generator wired directly the a brushless dc motor to drive the axle/wheels. It would need a disconnect to stop but the engine throttle would work the rest of the time. I know it's less expensive to use what you already have.

[@robotcantina8957]

Its all about time and money, We have a small budget for these projects and not a lot of time.

[@Ziraya0]

You should get a Gould EasyGraf Thermal Charter, they're beautiful objects and great household decorations, and also they would make a more more legible presentation of the current & voltage information, since they would be charting the values continuously, plus they can be configured to integrate the high speed variation of the data to depict it as variable line width. I am of course being silly but they are beautiful objects, unfortunately the desired modules to make one useful can cost the same as the device, and I have no idea how one would source the paper.

[@robotcantina8957]

LOL, it would be nice to have some good equipment.

[@niteshades_promise]

battery charging system? yes! my motorized bicycle lighting system needs a way to charge. cant wait to see. phatmoto life. 🚲 🍻

[@joeinmi8671]

Looking forward to the s10 project. Please make it able to haul/tow/work with your twist.

[@christopherlenahan3906]

HAHA, yeh the gear and bearing are definitely on that armature. My first though was spin the wheels! Nice adapter! Would've done it on the vehicle in this case, as you mentioned as well. HAHA! Nice job!

[@flyonbyya]

Like they say… HEAVY CHEVY

[@bruceklein9008]

I used to build street legal golf carts. We would turn the cart onto it's right side and let the weight of the motor help to remove it.

[@robotcantina8957]

Thanks for the tip!

[@liberatorairparkleyburn892]

What about the charging buck converter for the 12volt battery?

[@robotcantina8957]

Thats the plan, but we made charging the battery low priority. Now that we have a working system we can add the charging feature.

[@MikefromMOMichaelTurner227]

Nice job 👍 How did you decide on the rpm setup between your gas engine and the alternator? Keep up the great job 😊

[@originalstreetsquid]

You have inspired me to try similar project except will be using two altenators one converted alt gen other conerted alt drive motor with motor controller

[@cha1rtech]

great success with the golf cart, maybe it's time to a petrol battery to the Insight

[@truckgotstuck]

You are probably good at up to about 52 volts. The series 36v motors are pretty happy to bump up to 48v, and you can go by 12.8*4 for pack voltage which is 51..2.

[@nuttyDesignAndFab]

keeping with the "simple" theme, pre arduino, could you rig up a limit switch that senses the engine governor going WOT and maybe backs off the armature current only at that point? Could be done with a pretty simple circuit I reckon, maybe as simple as the limit switch connecting an additional resistor to the throttle signal? trying to go by current or voltage doesn't really translate to your actual goal in terms of not stalling the engine.

[@erik_dk842]

Yes. Go directly to the source

[@robotcantina8957]

Yes that could be done, but I feel like 99% of the audience who can build the simple system would not be able to go any further and build and calibrate another sub system.

[@winksthebiker5193]

Good morning Jimbo 🌻

[@robotcantina8957]

Hi ! good morning!

[@UnfinishedProjectDartSport]

Sweet!!

[@robotcantina8957]

Thanks!

[@filippazourek5650]

Hear me out: heavy flywheel bolted to engine to take high wattage spikes and give governor more time to respond to load

[@MrTench8]

A DC motor does not have a voltage limit as such, it has a KV rating, how many rpm's it will spin at per volt. More voltage will make it turn faster. Any DC motor is going to be limited by the current the windings can handle without frying, so heat management is the limiting factor. I have run many motors designed for 36v on 20s lipo 84v at upto 3200w with no problems.

[@bryanirwin5473]

If Jimbo gets ahold of one of those small military surplus opposed 4 cylinders, we're getting a class on time travel.

[@sammorgan2390]

I'd love to see a cart with belt drive like the car

[@AnalogDude_]

4:43 just use a file to make them flat and they are good to go again, did this a number of times and works perfect. The Arduino Nano "Every" is a better choice than the Arduino (Uno, Nano) with atmel 328P, better "header" definitions to control port pins, etc. with internal pull ups, 6 x 16 bit timers.

[@robotcantina8957]

We are going with an UNO R4 . It has a faster clock speed and a 12 bit AD. I like the UNO form factor.

[@AnalogDude_]

​@@robotcantina8957 I'm going to get a Uno R4 in 2 days, it's cool being 32 bit, but not sure how this works with the timers, been exploring the Nano Every since a month and i like it a lot, the adc aint no problem, the Microchip MCP3201 adc is also 12 bit and 8 pin, just some 2/3us$. likewise the MCP4822 being a 12 bit dual dac. the Microchip Fubarino (PIC32MX250F256D) is also a very good choice of all, 64 kb sram, 256 kb flash, 48mHz and being compatible with the Arduino IDE, but 3V33 and requires TXB0108 8-Bit Bidirectional Voltage-Level Translator to translate 3v3 tot 5V. just 23us$. good understandle datasheet.

[@liberatorairparkleyburn892]

Jimbo do you have a link to that Uno R4 your hping to use so o can get it on the slow boat... sp i dont have to wait for it to arrive when we do that upgrade?

[@MisfitzMotorsportsLLC]

Morning Jimbo happy Sunday!

[@robotcantina8957]

Good morning!

[@risvangenbrnshj918]

I had a lot of fun to! Again. Couldn’t you mount a CVT thingie so the petrol battery wouldn’t have to run 3,600 rpm when cruising?

[@robotcantina8957]

3600 RPM is where the engine makes peak hp. For all the math to work the engine has to run at peak HP. running the engine slower reduces the HP and the performance will suffer.

[@krashanb5767]

I'm curious how much difference this more complicated system will make 😊

[@robotcantina8957]

We will have better acceleration and we can have the same pulling power that the un-calibrated throttle provided. Is it worth it? hard to say.

[@krashanb5767]

@robotcantina8957 better acceleration is always worth it 😋

[@koldphuzhun]

As a curiosity, have you thought about putting a varistor between your PWM source and the alternator? The idea is that you lower the pulse height of each pulse with the added resistance and then widen the duty cycle of the pulse to fill in the gap. This should have the effect of saturating the field windings more which in theory should give you more current, but the lower peaks will prevent the voltage from climbing to heights that will cross the 3kw barrier. By using a varistor, you can tune the system AND keep the system simple, but you could get the current for motor torque without pulling the watts that kill the petroleum battery. Once tuned, you could simply replace the varistor with a fixed resistor of the same value for a permanent tune. No Arduino needed and the system is practically the same. Thoughts?

[@american7169]

We still wanna see it as a diesel electric hybrid! A golfie rollin coal, c'mon😊

[@dennisford2000]

I wonder if you put a vacuum cleaner hose port on the motor and a piece of brake line to blow the commutator off and vacuum it out at the same time? If you did that then you could cut down the wear of the commutator

[@robotcantina8957]

Perhaps a small blower to push air through the motor case may help push the dust out... interesting.

[@First_Take.]

Im curious if you could set up a turbo nitrous like boost of speed with a capacitor bank.

[@First_Take.]

Ps. Capacitors aren't considered a battery so you can still call it a battery-less electric gokart.

[@robotcantina8957]

Yes, that could be done. but the turbo boost voltage would likely be around 10 volts. it gets complicated to charge a cap to 10 volts. Any faults in the system would cause the capacitors to explode.

[@speedmaverick]

The thing is simple yet complex enough to self start without a manual choke and throttle system, is nothing but awesome. Nice save using the long screws on the retainer plate. My question is, do the volts really have the same priority when the amps are limited compared to what a battery can deliver? So the heart of my question is, are the total watts the real indicator of motor damage, same as the max watts produced will kill the petroleum battery? It seems that watts would be the primary limiting factor in both performance and life expectancy. It seems that testing a higher amp alternator would give more data on the excess voltage if more amps are available to increase watts at a lower voltage. I'm guessing on all of this at best. As you said, this is a run what you brung deal so that's what you have. I don't know what determines the V to A ratio of an alternator, but if that ratio is higher amps at same voltage, could it be same watts at lower voltage at the motor? I'm a mechanical thinker, not electrons. I'm learning here, so this is just what I can assume using mechanical logic, such as the triangle's use in fabrication to follow along with....

[@robotcantina8957]

the simple answer is the higher voltage at the motor may cause the motor to overheat.