Rock Dust - DON'T fall for the SCAM

[@simplifygardening]

Thank you for watching my content. If you enjoyed this video you can view more like it here ---> kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5PNo3dre92eZ6c Don't forget to like and share my content. Thanks, guys :)

[@muhammadkallouj5638]

UK Here We Grow take a bucket of sea water and you will sea the amount of minerals that are immediately available on your soil. You could use also sea salt in a very minimal Portion. Thanks for you sharings

[@simplifygardening]

@@muhammadkallouj5638 This just proves my point entirely. I'm not saying minerals don't come from rock dust. the minerals in the ground have been breaking down for millions of years. crushing rocks does not make the nutrients available

[@darthvader5300]

@@simplifygardening Crushing rocks isn't enough, you have to pulverize them, grind them, and mill them until they are as fine as bleached white wheat flour and being that fine they will evenly dissolve in water, and mixed with humus, the humic acids of humus will dissolve the rock dust particles into colloids that will be absorbed by plants. Nature has been making rock dust through the natural grinding process of glaciation, water erosion, wind erosion but mostly through glaciation. But glaciation has an another accompanying process simultaneously acting while it is grinding-breaking down the rocks, it is called leaching. Rock dust powder making just simply imitates nature's glaciation process WITHOUT THE LEACHING PROCESS which retains the original mineral content level without altering it.

[@Thought_Criminal_13]

What about Azomite?

[@shubh6567]

Hey Tony, I am a quarry owner here in India, and I have been planting thousands of trees for past 5 years. We began producing manufactured sand from Basalt 3 years back, and we got a by-product which we later called manufactured soil. We used manufactured soil for our plants, we have given it to local garderners and everyone including us are enjoying it. I guess the size of product is crucial as our's is in micron size. We are not using any chemicals/fertilizers to grow our trees, only using home based compost and manufactured soil/rock dust.

[@matthewfarrell317]

I used a rock dust-like product the first time a few months ago, for clay loam soil, the company said it would help break it up a bit. After two months, 100% support their claims, soil is better, I can use my hands to dig down about 30-40mms into the soil, more of the mulch then ever before is down deeper, and I have seen an increase in the overall worm and insect populations in the soil. Now we have been building the soil over the last year, but you can easily tell the change. I should also say the one I was using had about 6-7 different rock types in it. Oh and rocks, just like plastic can break down pretty quick under the right conditions.

[@happity]

Azomite ?

[@huxley49620]

I agree that overall you’re better to add compost to your garden however flood plains and volcanic areas are some of the most fertile areas on earth because they’re continuously supplied with fine rock and sediment.

[@simplifygardening]

They have had millions of years to break that down, you dont have the luxury of time like that

[@BionicRasta]

Besides there's already rock dust minerals in the soil from the evolution of our planet over thousands of years, as your chart shows, its how the geology of the earth developed with a breakdown of all organic matter. Its only short term beneficial use is to add drainage or to aid worms breakdown compost, a bit like how grit is useful for the chickens gizzard.

[@simplifygardening]

@@BionicRasta Totally agree Natty especially as worms have gizzards much like chickens

[@BAMHEIDSPINKWORKS]

Rock dust is part of Brazil's agricultural policy this was already worked out in the 30s but it absorbs lots of CO2 so on a global scale you must be careful as it will cause climate change

[@user-io3hy4zb4s]

How does it absorb co2 and why is that a bad thing? Are you saying it takes a lot of petrol to crush and apply that rock?

[@Gandalf-The-Green]

Micro nutrients and minerals are mined from the substratum by deep rooted plants, especially deep rooted deciduous trees, incorporated into their leaves and thus made available to surface dwelling plants and animals. So if you want a mineral source for your garden that is actually available to plants, leaf mould would be a great idea.

[@simplifygardening]

Nailed it. Exactly why I did numerous leaf mould videos and they are very popular, The sediment that the trees pull from has had thousands of years to break down not one season. :)

[@PCMenten]

Actually, the organic acids from decomposed organic material act as a chemical buffer that makes the trace minerals available. But if your soil is depleted, lacking in these minerals, I suspect that rock dust might be useful.

[@ace2044]

that's interesting thanks

[@michaelreeve.idonotconsent295]

Stupid of me I forgot to mention one of the most important things about rock dust, that is its para magnetism effect on the soil Phil Callaghan in his books explains about this very important subject, would not want people to miss out on this .

[@homerco213]

I was going to buy rock dust today, but I don't want to buy from a big box store; and I couldn't find a local nursery convenient. Thanks for the video, I'll skip it altogether. I personally am worried about the mercury in fish emulsion which I use to grow hot peppers. Great stuff, you got another subscriber.

[@simplifygardening]

I wouldnt worry about that its so small in amounts its almost indetectable in any veg you grow

[@anthonybrown7448]

Hi tony was think about using rock dust believing that it was the thing to improve my soil .but after listen to your advise I will be putting my money into something more beneficial for my garden .like your channel keep up the good work .

[@simplifygardening]

Anthony I am glad you saw this in time to save your cash. Invest in some cow manure and mulch the garden with it. So many other free ways to add nutrients too

[@looksodamngoodphattygurl9939]

I’m late here, all I want to say is thank you for keeping it real ..

[@simplifygardening]

Thanks appreciate it

[@looksodamngoodphattygurl9939]

You’re welcome

[@simplifygardening]

Folks don't forget to give us a thumbs up and subscribe for further content just like this. Thanks :)

[@Agui007]

Hi Tony, I too have fallen victim due to... Lack of research and misinterpretation of the product. I was after a volcanic ash product to aid in growth. So, I simply use wood ash for appropriate plants now. I should have also noted the remin's colour!

[@charlieabel1533]

I always thought in the back of my mind rock dust was a scam, and it make sense to me that roots would have to work really hard to get nutrient form rock dust, and a much easier time getting nutrients from compost and plant material where a plant has already extracted nutrients from the soil

[@barbarasaunders6919]

I've been growing veg and plants for over 50 yrs best results come from feeding your soil with organic/natural manures etc, not spending a fortune on false claims and lining the pockets of companies just out to rip folk off. Glad to see someone agrees with me, nice one mate.

[@simplifygardening]

Barbara keep putting the organics in. Your doing it right. The same as good old mother nature

[@edieboudreau9637]

barbara saunders agreed.

[@barbarasaunders6919]

Years ago when this rock dust became available i trialed a raised bed with rock dust compared to a raised bed with organic dug in manure, left it for 6 months over the winter and planted out in it come spring, the muck bed produced better/bigger veg hands down. Ok after the trial of a seasons growing in both beds i emptied the contents of both beds onto the veg plot still separating the areas to see if several years later there was still any difference with the rock dust area, in a word "no", that was approx 10 plus years ago now !! i rest my case lol.

[@simplifygardening]

@@barbarasaunders6919 Yeah the same as my findings Barbara. Total waste of money

[@raylang7839]

@@barbarasaunders6919 That was 'the proof of the pudding'. I have used SEA-90 for 15 years to re-supply minerals to my soil. Very inexpensive!

[@NashvilleMonkey1000]

Do a mineral test on your leaf gutter dirt and you'll find a lot of what's in rockdust is the same as windswept particles, so you're getting buckets of it every year just by keeping enough groundcover to catch the incoming particles~

[@braidenforest-weaver4274]

Fungi in the soil produce enzymes that break down 'inorganic' nutrients into 'organic' plant-available nutrients, in exchange for exudates which the plants put out into the soil. It's the trade between plants and the life in the soil that can turn massive chunks of rock into plant food. Albeit the rate at which these rocks 'dissolve' in the soil in very slow, because of how many nutrients there are, and for the most part these trace elements and micro-nutrients are needed much less by the plant than the macro nutrients, like N, P, K.

[@simplifygardening]

The point being is that as stated in the video in the time your at the garden the fungi and breakdown process would never add anything to your soil. it takes too long and your soil already has what it needs. people should concentrate on providing the proper sir and moisture levels for plants to uptake the nutrients

[@bigrich6750]

I’ve never put rock dust in my garden, but last spring, I added lots of rough compost that I made from grass clippings and coffee grounds and kitchen scraps. My garden struggled all summer. I knew something was wrong, so this fall I started adding a little lime, some kelp meal and basalt rock dust. None of that stuff has been in long enough to see any results, so I guess I’ll know in the spring of ‘24. I wondered about the rock dust. It was about $2.50 a pound with shipping. I don’t think I’ll do that again. With the kelp, rock dust and lime, I’ve spent close to $250. I think I’ll try to find some local sources of minerals, as that’s just too much money for a backyard garden.

[@mainerockflour3462]

Fungi primarily break down rocks by secreting organic acids like oxalic acid, gluconic acid, and citric acid, which lower the pH level on the rock surface, allowing for mineral dissolution; they also release specialized chemicals called siderophores to extract iron from the rock, and use their physical hyphae to penetrate and further break down the rock structure. Key points about fungi and rock breakdown: • Acid secretion: The primary mechanism, where fungi release acids that dissolve minerals on the rock surface. • Siderophores: These compounds are specifically designed to bind and extract iron from the rock. • Hyphae penetration: Fungal filaments (hyphae) can physically grow into cracks in the rock, applying pressure and further breaking it down.

[@keithomelvena2354]

It's true that rock dust doesn't have any magical properties, but it would be inaccurate to say they have no beneficial properties, after all soils are made up of a combination of an organic fraction and a mineral fraction. The mineral fraction is essentially built from the weathering of rocks. The type of rock determining the mineral status and thus fertility of soil. Soils based on rocks such as basalt are generally more fertile than those based on, say, greywacke. Dry fertilisers all started life as rock at some point. They have just been adulterated to improve solubility. The key to unlocking those insoluble nutrients, is to have a highly microbially active soil and not expecting instant results.

[@simplifygardening]

That the issue Keith most of the nutrients would take forever to become plant available

[@vajrayogini37]

It's an expensive way to do it and does take longer than our life to contribute to a garden.

[@keithomelvena2354]

The key to the nutrients becoming plant available is very fine particle size. In other words a very high surface area to volume ratio. I'm not sure of the characteristics of basalt rock dust you are describing, as it's not sold where I live, but it's benefit to improving the yield when applied to an annual crop, would be close to zero in year one. Mixing into a highly active, warm and damp environment such as a compost heap would help speed up its' nutrient release. In effect the break down by microbes of rock particles is the way all natural soil, plant communities co exist. Chemically adulterated water soluble fertilisers are the human way of speeding the process, which of course is not without its' own detrimental effects. I would agree it's not a product that should cost big $$$. Lime should be a product with similar pricing. It's not the same product as soluble fertilisers and can't be compared to them. RPR is a product I am more familiar with and needs to be applied three years ahead of expected response, but I do use it on pasture rather than vege.

[@simplifygardening]

@@keithomelvena2354 Thanks for your input Keith. Lime is more water soluble than other rock so can be utilized by plants

[@SteveRichards]

These grumbles about rock dust have been around for a while. I still use it and here's why. I grow on very sandy soil, the wood-chip/leaves come from trees grown on the same sandy soil, the horse manure from local horses that feed on grass that grows on the same sandy soil, the compost is made from waste veg grown in the same sandy soil. When almost all the veg I eat comes from 250 sq metres of ground and all the inputs are local I have a big risk of mineral deficiencies, they often won't show up in the plant health either. So I like to add some non-local amendments, poultry manure, concentrated cow manure, composted seaweed and - yes - rock dust. Ideally I will add it to the compost heap and let the bacteria and worms work on it before it goes into the soil. I'm investing in this soil for the future so I don't mind if it takes a few decades for the bacteria to do their work. The cost is insignificant as rock dust is used sparingly and every few years, certainly less than 0.1% of harvest value. Good to raise awareness of it's limitations though! : All the best - Steve

[@DigwellGreenfingers]

So true Steve. If you have the perfect soil then nothing is needed. I know of no-one that has perfect soil. Steve

[@simplifygardening]

Steve I 100% implore you on improving your soil. That is the perfect thing for any of us to be doing. Like you i plan ahead but rock dust wont benefit your soil in your lifetime if your kids are taking of the plot you may see a difference. But I do totally respect your views as I state in the video and its ok for us to disagree on it :)

[@simplifygardening]

I agree there, we all need to improve our soils :)

[@kiwiwriter]

Steve - if you can get some clay for your soil your organic matter will last longer and soil will build faster.

[@simplifygardening]

ARe you mixing your clay with organics Urban?

[@kelleymcbride4633]

I've used azomite for a few years now in conjunction with beneficial microbes and mycorrizal fungus and it definitely improves overall plant health, minimizes transplant shock and helps with uptake throughout the season when compared to my previous system which I ran side by side for a year

[@simplifygardening]

Id argue the microbes are doing that and not the azomite

[@themilarad]

@@simplifygardening you may need to go back to gardening school. Microbes and fungus carry nutrients and trace minerals to the plant, as well as enable availability. You need both. Basalt is not nearly as nutrient-rich as Gaia Green or Azomite. Not all 'rock dusts' are created equal. If you think they are, you may need to go back to gardening school.

[@garethmarsh949]

@@simplifygardening you really should have given more thought to the subject before making the video. There is a reason the person you're replying too uses microbes alongside rock dust, the same reason the NATURAL rock cycle is completely irrelevant... Rock dust is amazing stuff when you know how to use it.

[@geraldblount4159]

All that stuff takes years and months to break down before you you'll have three or four Harvesters going through that before it's ready for minerals and nutrients rock dust takes years bone meal takes over 5 months

[@geraldblount4159]

If you want something for transfer shock use aloe and cinnamon

[@hwealthwellnesscenter4662]

I have a lab tested report and rock dust is rich in minerals. Used it in soil that showed fairly well results. I sell 2.3 pounds (1kg approx.) for about $ 8-10.

[@jamesdivall64]

Hi Tony! Thanks for the heads up on Rock Dust, I am for the well rotted manure myself, used it last year and had my best potatoes and parsnips and a large 7.6kg pumpkin :-)

[@simplifygardening]

Perfect James. Stick with the organics mate they will do you well and wont cost you much

[@stevecullen4065]

Tony, I agree with the breaking down of rock dust taking many years, I'd imagine though that the main benefit would be for the worms which would help with the vermicompost part of soil improvement as they have a gizzard and need that finer grit to process things faster

[@simplifygardening]

Yeah Steve totally agree with this

[@jeremyschissler337]

i cant believe everyone totally misses the fact that microbes feed on basalt rock dust when its micronized ....you can literally make microbial tea with it and make the calcium and magnesium chelated in less than 24 hrs..........its also amazing that everyone misses the contradiction that micro nutrients in soil are not about the plant ....dude even says feed the soil and not the plants ....the science proves that trace elements are an improvement for reasons other than meeting plant requirements

[@johnaspray6559]

Some years ago whilst on holiday in Scotland, I paid a visit to the SEER center, where they had been using rock dust from a local quarry. They did grow great veg, but the dust has to be mixed with compost, stuck in the ground and left for the worms to work on it. You wouldn't start getting results for 10 years. patience is the name of the game in the rock dust world. Lovely people there.

[@danielball146]

This sounds like the vinegar diet. On the vinegar diet, you can lose a lot of weight and lower your cholesterol. But in order to allow the vinegar to do its work, you have to also eat lots of fruits and vegetables and stay away from processed foods and sugars.

[@elifishpaw7509]

My understanding is that the basalt has a diverse array of minerals that microbes can digest. Most soils have most of these, anyways, but not always. So, it does not feed the plants, it feeds the microbes. For the benefit to your plants, the microbes need to be present from compost or manure or naturally occurring organic content.

[@christyrice2959]

Thanks for the info Tony. I add some autumn leaf fall when I'm making compost and it dose more for the veg and ground than what they say rock dust will do .

[@simplifygardening]

Yes Christy. Its amazing what leaf mould or compost can do for you. Stick with those for a great garden

[@michaelrichards899]

What about glacier rock dust made from soft rocks,? Just trying to learn thanks

[@yes350yes]

So glad Ive come across you vid. and it makes sense that it would take Ions of time before your soil/plants could take advantage of this. I have also looked at online tests comparing control , rock dust, and biochar. rock dust came in last and I mean way down in crop yield. So I too belive it to be a scam. which I also fell for luckily I only invested in a 5 lb bag. Each person will do as they see fit, but I add aged horse manure compost and worm castings and do well with it..

[@johnfoster7996]

It would be easy enough to trial - 1 bed rock dusted against 1 bed without - compare results.

[@simplifygardening]

John this has already been done, and even some bigger channels than me who used to swear by it have now changed their minds also

[@Realdavidart]

Simplify Gardening such as?

[@erickandrade7142]

Yeah, i agree... just a lot of bla bla bla. Sorry.

[@kcf5011]

Why don't you do it on your channel? I've generally seen plants do much better when transplanting with rock dust. Have been planning to do a side by side comparison.

[@meauxsoutdoors8119]

I have never used Azomite but do remember my elders using rock dust to loosen the soil. But plants don’t break down minerals or compost (since you suggested using compost instead) of azomite. Compost is also unavailable to plants until Beneficial organisms in the soil digest the organic matter then make the nutrients available to the plants in return for sugar and carbon the plant produces. For example: a worm might eat the compost and rock dust then leave casting behind which is available for the micro organisms to devour and then feed to the plant. Feed the soil and not the plant

[@gr328]

If the soil is quite acid it is possible that some basalts will begin to dissolve, depending upon the chemical constitution of the particular rock. It does leach a little magnesium but, like you say , in a pH neutral soil you'd be waiting a very, very, very, very long time.

[@simplifygardening]

Yeah I just think there are much better things to be spending on in the garden, The best thing it would do for you is add grit

[@justinthebaker2398]

What if it's completely diluting in the water? Still can't be utilized?

[@rudimentalgardening]

Yes, rock dust/azomite users are very defensive about this topic. I did my own test about 7 years ago when the azomite craze was going on. I had 4 raised beds, applied azomite along with my normal fertilizer and compost regimen over 2 of the raised beds, the other 2 received no azomite. Planted the same veggies in both pairs of test beds. I found that the beds without azomite actually produced better. That's all the proof I needed. I have disagreements with fellow gardeners about this fairly often, and I always tell them..."If you think rock dust benefits your garden then use it".

[@simplifygardening]

Good gardeners test, there is no need to argue some people will argue black is white for the sake of it

[@infoseeker329]

So what do I add when my plants are showing multiple deficiency problems like boron copper and iron?

[@simplifygardening]

i would do a soil test, just because they are showing those signs doesnt mean its not present. it could be that the root system of your plant has been compromised from irregular watering or over watering. a soil test doesnt lie

[@cptreech]

Good points Tony. I believe, in the early rush to endorse this product Bob Flowerdew also agreed with you. Putting plenty of home made compost or rotted manure on your soil will always give you results. Personally I'll go spent my £30 on another compost bin or a Bokashi set up.

[@simplifygardening]

Absolutely, Organic wins everytime for me

[@vajrayogini37]

Charles Dowding only uses compost decaying plant matter and manure to improve his soil. No mention of rock dust.

[@simplifygardening]

@@vajrayogini37 Exactly as nature intended, The forest floor doesnt have rockdust all over it and the amazon does ok for itself. Only when we get involved do things go pare shapped

[@Noraf83]

@@simplifygardening The Amazon is re-mineralized annually by dust from the Sahara which is blown across the Atlantic Ocean by trade winds.

[@novafiddler1712]

Do soil microbes break down rock dust slowly over time?

[@janpenland3686]

I totally agree. I've never used it and don't plan on using it in the future. There are so many better ways of adding nutrients and tilth to your garden. Much Love

[@simplifygardening]

Exactly jan. I just want folks to think about what they are doing rather than blindly listening to hype

[@Alex18442]

Ecologist here: Soil is basically decomposed organic material, weathered rock, and soil organisms. Rock needs to be broken down to a certain particle size in order to be directly or indirectly absorbed by plants (around .01-1mm). Ecosystems in temperate regions, like the UK, are driven by nutrient cycles dominated by decomposition. However, in areas like the desert, much of the nutrients are provided by weathering rock, and therefore desert plants are more evolved to take up that form of nutrients. Short answer is this: Your soil MIGHT benefit from rock dust every five years or so, if you have been using beds exclusively fed by compost for a long, long time. It may bring more balance to your soil composition, since your soils did evolve with SOME mineral deposits as well. BUT If you are adding rock dust to actual soil, the benefits are probably minimal or temporary. In that case, you would do better strengthening the biological community to make better use of the minerals already present in the soil.

[@susiespearing6165]

I had exactly the same thought and never jumped on the bandwagon .Too many products asking for ridiculous amounts.

[@simplifygardening]

Agreed Susie Its mental how companies think they can get away with it with a little marketing

[@heresie]

in garden beds it is pointless, unless you have some really poor soil, even then it may take a year before you see your plants using those micronutrients, and there are definitely better products for this. but apart from that, microbes love rock dust. some teas call for it. it also helps adjust your cec in different mediums, take coco, you can adjust the salt level, cec, and fix ph/calcium/potassium issues that people run into despite using a buffered medium. i agree on the price part, it's far too expensive for what it is.

[@maheens]

I've just paid for and received a small bag of volcanic rock dust (dark in colour). I was told coffee plants enjoy the additive, but now I feel scammed. Glad it was such a small bag.

[@simplifygardening]

Sorry you didnt see the video before, but at least it wasnt a 20kg bag or something

[@maheens]

@@simplifygardening thanks for your upload, I know better for next time. No it was only a 1kg cheap bag from ebay, thank goodness!

[@HubsByG]

Hi Tony, I've never used it as it doesn't really make sense unless as you say "for drainage". My question. For aeration & drainage, what would you be more likely to recommend to be added? I'm just wondering because in your video when you mentioned drainage, it would have been informative to get alternatives.

[@simplifygardening]

Sharp sand. Grit. Horticultural sand. Can all be used for drainage 😀

[@NicksAllotmentDiary]

Hi Tony. I’d heard of Rock dust but never bought it. I’d seen the price and as you said thought it must be something very good for the soil. Glad you’ve highlighted the subject mate. Definitely won’t be rushing to buy some. Take care. Nick

[@simplifygardening]

Cheers Nick. There are much better things you can use your money on :)

[@justinfilipovic8939]

do you think it might perhaps be beneficial to put pieces of whole volcano rock in your water drum?

[@derekf7434]

As far as I know it needs to be taken up by a worm first which is why it takes so long to become plant available from a rock, it must be small enough to pass through a worm. Then once it has passed through their digestive system it is made plant available. I feed it to my worms my plants are amazing and I use a 50/50 mix of coir and worm castings. Water and compost tea with diluted leachate from my worms bins several applications annually.

[@simplifygardening]

Hi Derick. It will oass right through worms they dont break it down. Worms have gizzards much like chickens and need a form of grit in order to grind and digest their food

[@F1ngerBlast3r]

@@simplifygardeningso they ‘grind’ particles together in their gizzards… wouldn’t that erode the particles into finer particles? 🧐 Is that why worms need to constantly consume these particles as they are continually diminishing?

[@tonysgardensgizmos7164]

Completely agree. Rock dust has zero nutritional value. Very few of the minerals in it are water soluble, which would be necessary to make them available for uptake by the plant. Even if the dust particle is in direct contact with a root it would need to be in solution to be able to move into the roots, and therefore be usable by the plant. It could contain a million grams of the best minerals in the world, but unless it can get into the plant it’s completely useless. If you want to do it, go ahead, but you may as well use sand, as it will contribute about the same mineral content, and be 500 times cheaper! If you want to built good soil, invest in good organic matter, and worms to dig it in!

[@simplifygardening]

A Man from my own heart Tony :)

[@F1ngerBlast3r]

That’s why you need the microbiome in your soil to convert the bound up nutrients and make them available for the plants

[@lorez201]

If a rock dust company (specifically which ones?) are marketing quarry waste (what kind of quarries? this matters), I would agree that's basically a scam, but everything else in this vid is pretty shallow analysis. If you make a claim, such as "it takes hundreds of years for rock dust to break down", cite the source you're drawing that claim from, and then explain exactly what that's supposed to mean. Break down how? Into what? To what extent? With what organisms present? Under what level of water-saturation and oxygenation? What exact type of rock dust are we starting with? What's the average starting particle size? Comparing dust to palm-sized rocks is silly and misleading. The rate at which mineral ions used by plants and other organisms (iron, magnesium, calcium, zinc, etc.) are leached from mineral particles (a continuous process) is more important than some imaginary endpoint that you don't even define. Even if you had defined such an endpoint, it still wouldn't mean much. Like, if you add milled olivine to a soil, plants and soil organisms aren't going to wait until all of it is completely broken down into solubilized metal ions and silica to start using the minerals present, those organisms uptake the nutrients as they are made available, whatever the rate. I agree it would be illuminating to see actual data on the rate at which various rock dusts release accessible metal ions and silica into the soil, but until then maybe avoid claiming such soil amendments don't help? lol. Personally, I've noticed that when I add crushed/milled basalt to commercial potting/gardening soil (which is usually incompletely composted mulch at best), it improves the structure and water retention of those products over time, and asci of bird's nest fungi and other fungal species show up more readily in it later, which makes sense, given that soil fungi, even saprotrophs, use insoluble mineral particles as a source of nutrients by leaching ions off of their surfaces. Additionally, it's been demonstrated that surfaces of solid boulders leach phosphate (and other mineral ions) 60 times faster when colonized by mosses. In other words, the biotic environment of these rock dusts affects their bioavailability. Are there cheaper ways to improve soil? Sure, but adding a long-term source of minerals that won't ruin soil the way refined fertilizers do can't hurt. Also just an aside, try not to leave soil surfaces exposed. Soils retain water and sequestered carbon more readily when left undisturbed (untilled) and protected with mulch and/or perennial cover crops. Hope this helps.

[@simplifygardening]

Read any literature on decomposition of rock not one will disagree with the facts in the video

[@lorez201]

Simplify Gardening So then cite some.

[@mainerockflour3462]

Consider mixing in your rock dust with biochar. This creates a condominium of sorts, that allows the fungi and micro flora and fauna to cohabitate.💖👏

[@simplifygardening]

I may alter this video at some point. i stand by its content, but there are situations it could help

[@ericelder2962]

If basalt rock dust doesnt work for traceminerals what does and any suggestions for getting silica to be more available for plants and not just adding to the soil??

[@gailgreenberg6953]

I used it last fall and this spring. I throw in a fistful of dust into my wheelbarrow with the old soil and organic fertilizer, worm castings and a soil probiotic and coco choir. A handful of each. Then I mix well and return to containers and cover with shredded flax until I plant or sow.

[@simplifygardening]

Gail with everything else in that wheelbarrow it is more than likely those other ingridents that are giving you crops

[@cbak1819]

I used it last year.. saw no difference ..I grow in a high raised garden bed. Thank you for sharing👍🏾🕊

[@simplifygardening]

That’s great Christine

[@ronyerke9250]

We've got heavy clay soil around here. Whenever it gets dry, it turns to dust. I'm pretty sure it's just powdered rock made by glaciers in the last ice age. I don't know why I'd need quarry dust to bulk it up.

[@simplifygardening]

I think you have enough there Ron lol :)

[@stephenemerson9890]

Good Gardeners are opportunistic, we get most of our soil amendments for the asking and hauling. Even the five gallon buckets I haul stuff in are collected. You can get a couple of five gallon buckets of rock dust at some quarries for the asking. The same for manure and material for the compost.

[@simplifygardening]

Yeah as i said its cheap as chips

[@terry306uk]

I fell for this scam. 4 years ago. Made no difference to my crops. Wish I’d seen this video first. I paid just under £16 at the time, for a 20kg bag. I guess I’ll learn from my mistakes.

[@simplifygardening]

Wow Terry you had it at a bargain price but its still a rip off even at £1 a sack

[@therealKINDLE]

@@simplifygardening My mate sam would get in the sack for less than £1

[@craftypam9992]

Thanks for the vid. It's been suggested to me that rock dust will improve my clay soil. However, the amount of effort needed to dig it in put me off! I'll stick to using plant matter as a mulch, and letting the worms and critters dig it in for me!

[@pauldavies5655]

try buying SHARP SAND --- which is basically sand with bits of very small stones shells etc in it , much much coarser then building sand . a tonne is around £40 , last time i bought it ---- but a bag , which i did buy last week was £ 2.30 . that apparently will divide clay for drainage . but dont ADD rock dust with the sand unless you want to build a bloody garden cement brick wall , lol.

[@casper1240]

Me too let the worms do the work

[@simplifygardening]

Thats the best way to improve the clay soils Pam

[@simplifygardening]

@@pauldavies5655 Good point Paul and we mention digging this in to the ground in our last video

[@simplifygardening]

@@casper1240 As nature intended

[@FoodForestPermaculture]

Oh my you opened Pandoro s Box . Hello Tony . Wood ash does the job of adding minerals as good or in some cases better than rock dust. We use comfrey tea and is full of minerals . Food from with in the soil . Food Forest Permaculture .

[@simplifygardening]

Yeah comfrey is a great mineral accumulator.Great stuff, Yes I may have opened Pandora's box, but sometimes you have to let the rabbit out of the bag to stop people being taken advantage of

[@FoodForestPermaculture]

Agreed FFP@@simplifygardening

[@simplifygardening]

Cool :)

[@robbieg1461]

Tony, thanks for raising the awareness. As its my first time growing fruit and veg this season, I will be adopting the "no dig" and lots of compost.

[@simplifygardening]

Stick with the Robbie you wont go far wrong

[@rocky5726]

Tony, I'm really glad you published this video mate. I was just about to buy a book for £100 about rock dust and I was going to buy some. thanks tony mate

[@simplifygardening]

Steve spend that money on something else pla it will benefit your garden much more

[@mitchconnerandsometimesjlotoo]

Soil quality-texture, drainage and bacteria are most important then npk and then trace elements. Rock dust may help a little but I dont see the point in using it more than once and only using it on the poorest of soil. Leaf mould and great, this volcanic rock dust is very costly. I remember a gardener talking to the team at beach grove and they swore by it. I regard it more as a single use remineraliser at best. I'm would assume it's got no npk so isn't a fertiliser. More mineral based.

[@attilathehun1107]

What about rock phosphate? Is that any good or is that just the same as regular rock dust?

[@frankcoldwell4424]

I bought some from Quickcrop. Over the last week and a half I built 2steel raised beds which between them hold over a ton and a half of soil/compost. I added around 15kilos and if it doesn’t work as you say then at least it’s aiding drainage and helping the worms. I know people have been saying use sand, but horticultural sand is even more expensive. I might not buy any more, but I’m going to use the rest in my tubs and we’ll see.

[@simplifygardening]

You can use sharp sand instead of horticultural sand Frank. If you got it you may as well put it in its not going to do no harm and the worms will use it for the gizzards to break down food.

[@frankcoldwell4424]

I have 200 pounds of grit sand I was going to use under some paving slabs but have no idea if it would be ok in the beds if I’m honest.

[@simplifygardening]

If its just sharp sand grit sand it will be fine

[@kathymalcolm6381]

Thanks Tony. I did fall for the scam. It seemed to make sense since we don’t have flooding any more to bring minerals to our depleted soil. I also use homemade compost from leaves grass etc. and I use kelp meal and green sand. Do you have an opinion on those? One comment said we get minerals from the leaves in our compost. Is that accurate? Thanks. Your garden is beautiful.

[@simplifygardening]

Sorry to hear that. Compost from leaves grass and kelp is all good and I have many videos on it. dig around the channel I am sure you will love the content

[@pauldavies5655]

LOL , i may be a FIRST YEAR gardener -- but i m a 30 year builder . when i heard about rock dust last summer when i started , i thought to myself " why are people putting CEMENT in their garden soil ? "

[@simplifygardening]

Yeah its not doing anything beneficial for them, It may add a little silica but the conditions have to be perfect for that and they wont be

[@vajrayogini37]

Lol

[@eraproductions9923]

lol because they want to eventually build a moon

[@eraproductions9923]

i've been saying for years you can't eat concrete

[@stevenstart8728]

Is gypsum, dolomite and crushed limestone considered rock dust as they have all been proven to be beneficial for gardening and agriculture? As for quarry dust from a blue stone mine being beneficial wouldn’t it be obvious on the sides of paved areas where the rain washes the dust into the soil? I don’t see any obvious effect in such areas.

[@simplifygardening]

This is based on the bags of dust you purchase

[@73Corrwg]

Wish I’d seen this before I fell for it, but hey, now I know, cheers Butty.

[@simplifygardening]

Sorry Terry, better late than never

[@theriac.]

Very informative video. You have another sub. Could you suggest what you would advise to get the best out of house plants? I'm into a little biochemistry and microbiology and tempted to mix small amounts of micro & macrominerals to the soil of my Yuccas, Peace Lillys and others. So, any advice would be well appreciated

[@simplifygardening]

House plants are different as I use soiless mixes in them, so unless you put it in they dont get it. I tend to use a good balanced feed called liquid gold, Superthrive and silica all works well

[@theriac.]

@simplifygardening Ok, I'll experiment with them and see what works better. Thanks for that 👍

[@LindenRanch]

This makes sense to me. Growing your own is sometimes more expensive than market price so be careful with the rock dust scam.

[@simplifygardening]

Its ok if it costs more for better food but not to be totally ripped of for it

[@robertm4050]

He didn't show any proof or data that shows what he says is true. Always question people that tell you that they learned the "truth" on their own and only show a single diagram of the life cycle of a rock. No scientific data or timeline of how long he waited for a response from the companies. I can't say one way or another if rock dust is good, but I can say his reasoning against it were not good.

[@simplifygardening]

@@robertm4050 Robert check out alberta garden video that i was pointed to last night. these are my views based on trials of it. it makes no difference when u use it. what proof that it works have the companies given you?

[@simplifygardening]

Here is a link to the video lab results that agrees with my findings kzbin.info/www/bejne/o6ipZId8hN98n80

[@robertm4050]

@@simplifygardening I didn't say it worked, I specifically said that in my last reply. I work in research labs doing experiments with insect cells and protein extraction from infections for production of vaccines. I am familiar with AUGSOS and his videos, this one you linked was a superb video and the lab work is great for some one with a home garden. But there are so many variables to take into consideration and I can't pick apart a video that long right now. First, what was the alkalinity of the soil, if it is alkaline rock dust producers say it won't work. Why not clone a plant to make sure they don't have seeds that are going to grow less quality plants in one and better in the other? This could explain nutrient, taste, quality in each plant. At what point were the peppers picked, was one further along in it's growth cycle and would show better nutrients numbers? What explanation did he use for the decrease in soil nutrients at the end? How long did he let the rock dust break down in the soil before testing or planting? Was there enough time for it to break down at all? Is he going to see improvements years down the road? Did the rock dust being more dense fall the bottom of the boxes and when sampling did he miss getting it in his sampling? Was he sampling from multiple locations? He had an extremely small sample scale which could skew numbers to an extreme extent. I could easily rattle off another couple dozen questions that would impact numbers in the soil and fruit. Great video that he did and great numbers, but there is a lot more to it than what he showed. To have any value it would need to be scaled up and reproduced with the same results multiple times. Again, I don't know if it works, but for the moderate price it doesn't seem to hurt anything. We already use lime stone and phosphate rock to amend soils, so it does work in at least some situations and certain stones. Finally, you can't compare tossing in a couple random rocks in a garden to a know rock sample with known properties ground into a fine powder as it will be available in the soil much quicker than a rock will break down, like hundreds of years earlier. That would be like me using a Magnum size condom and getting my woman pregnant and then saying condoms don't work. Or was it that the condom was too big for my willy and couldn't do the job we know it can do?

[@tarabonee8855]

Well said! I think many gardeners dont realize that we are easy targets for companies looking to make a buck. It makes sense that since we have good intentions, surely gardening companies have the same...but sadly thats no the case

[@simplifygardening]

Totally agree Tara. I just wanted to ensure you guys are made aware so you dont waste your hard earned money

[@AngstG]

Thank you for this explanation...

[@JoeZyzyx]

My garden is naturally 5.0 to 5.5 pH in Maryland, so I do use "lime" each year to help overcome that, for that reason alone. I don't use dolomite,since my soil probably has all the sulfur it needs anyway. I would agree use of lime for acid soil, or sulfur on alkaline soils can help, but other non-reactive types of dust are wasted money, especially if igneous rock dust, which is little more than powdered glass.

[@simplifygardening]

Joe I couldn't agree more with you mate. Great comment.Sorry for the late reply, I have had some personal issues

[@FM-qm5xs]

Soil microbes break down rock to make minerals plant available. Sure if you already have well mineralized soil adding rock dust wont do much and it's better to just nurse your soil life. If you are on leeched and depleted dirt I think it is definitely worth trying rock dust alongside encouraging soil life though.

[@growmicannabis4050]

wow now i have to remove the azomite i purchased for my next grow. So i can test to see if my plants do any better with/without it.

[@simplifygardening]

Let me know how you get on :)

[@madmesmith5187]

Would adding rock dust to a hot compost pile make difference ? , just thinking of all the microbes and other little critters heating the dust up, may help leach some of the goodies out of the rock dust.

[@simplifygardening]

Although microbes would speed up the process you still wouldnt be around to benefit

[@Th3_Gael]

Why do people pay a fortune for it? I worked in quarries and bought crusher dust for £7 a ton. I suspect its gone up a bit now but I did find it useful to mix with the spent mushroom compost to help drainage (also bought by the ton for less than a 25kg bag online).

[@simplifygardening]

As I said Jim millions got duped into believing it was something else and they charged them for that

[@schuey089]

Thanks for the advice, great video, best of luck in the growing season! Keep them coming!

[@simplifygardening]

Thanks will do. lots coming up :) stay tuned

[@loganyoutube4818]

The soil life breaks the rock down immediately…the dust form increases the surface area so it is broken down quicker

[@simplifygardening]

Logan I am afraid that your misinformed about how long it takes microbes to break the rock dust down to a form useable by plants

[@aNaturalist]

You're absolutely right! Gardeners and some small farmers want 1 + 1 to = 3. So, they'll believe in rock dust and compost teas. Compost is like 1 + 1 = 2, and that's still worthwhile.

[@willitgrowwillitgrow1637]

TONY i must say i have never used rock dust and never will...i simply truly just add well broken down leaf mold to my beds every fall and thats it..works for me.

[@simplifygardening]

Leaf mould is perfect to add nutrients John. Great stuff pal

[@andrewyek]

how much leaves u manage to collect for lets say my allotment size=400m2?

[@simplifygardening]

@@andrewyek I collect loads. I usually fill around 10 1 ton sacks after they are shredded, so prob more like 30 1 ton sacks un shreded. for you plot maybe 3 of those after shredding or 9 before would be enough

[@andrewyek]

@@simplifygardening hier do u manage to collect so much? i collected them by forking at the leaves land fill after work.. each time can only haul 1 bag in my car.. heavy and dirty.. my wife not happy abt it.. how do u shred them?

[@sweetsilage]

You are absolutely right. Plants need only about 16 elements so most of the rock dust would never be used by plants. Also most rock dust contains arsenic and other heavy metals. I have never received a recommendation to add arsenic and heavy metals from my soil test analyst to my garden.

[@simplifygardening]

Glad you agree :)

[@michaeloconnor9809]

Farmers have been spreading crushed limestone for generations and all of them , farming reasonably well drained land will recommend it. Grass definitely improves in colour and growth. I believe that when the worms or any creature that in part eats soil containing nutrients including rock dusts, they improve that material into something inorganically uptakeable by roots. Feeding the life in the soil with microbial mixes like in Korean natural farming, compost, farm yard manure is the way to go as opposed to pharming.

[@richardhart7652]

Hi Tony I've been wondering about rock dust for years almost as long as it's been widely used and as you say other than to improve drainage I could see no benefits from using it unless you have extremely acid soil which could break it down how are the micro newtriants going to get released, fortunately I've never been able to afford any.

[@simplifygardening]

Well Richard thats great that you didnt waste any money on it mate :)

[@funkystuf23]

I live on a hill.. plenty of rock in my garden, old dry stone walling all over and on various levels.. it effects what can grow because as you will be fully aware, plants need Various soil types, I promise you and anyone bothering to look at the comments that it makes a difference

[@amansingh1851]

I somewhat disagree. I used azomite rock dust along with compost and peat moss and top soil. I had great results. We can be skeptical, but where I used it yielded better results when compared to my other garden, where I just used dirt and compost.

[@simplifygardening]

I think most soils have more than enough in it. and the azomite your using wont have even broken down

[@kenthomas4668]

We are small gardeners and it costs us about $20/year and vegetable definitely taste better. Not sure how we're getting ripped off.

[@simplifygardening]

Ken its been proven that the rockdust would take hundreds of years to actually break down enough to provide minerals to your plants. Its more likely there is already enough in your soil thats been breaking down for millenia.

[@dpgedward5947]

when I was researching it years ago. i learnt that worms would have to ingest the dust before it could be available to the plants

[@simplifygardening]

Its not viable for the gardener it takes 100s of years for what they add to become available to the plants

[@poshest5]

"The science and the physics just doesn't support it over the short term" Do you have any links substantiating this? How do you know? Did you do side-by-side experiments? I'm thirsty for actual evidence. Thanks.

[@LauraMichelGreenRaven]

In the USA rock dust is put down before and on top of gravel being used for the foundation of brick sidewalks and asphalt drives. Now I will be checking to see it it is for sale over here in the gardening supply stores. Laura

[@simplifygardening]

Laura, I believe its called Azomite in the USA

[@williamOC]

Thank you for that clear and decisive statement 👍 nothing beats compost activated by natural microorganisms!

[@simplifygardening]

Totally agree

[@deitrapugh1093]

Thank you for setting the record straight. Rock dust on labeled bags that I've seen do not have enough if any micro nutrients value... Save your money.

[@simplifygardening]

Thanks

[@orowizard1369]

Wow, I was just researching where to buy the least expensive bulk rock dust. Thanks, you saved me! So, where do you get the trace minerals that were farmed out of the soil after many years? I have large piles of wood chips from a tree company that I am spreading out over my land, cattle leaving manure (a lot it seems), composting plants and kitchen scraps, etc., but, aren't there are some minerals/nutrients that aren't in these items necessarily, like selenium, magnesium maybe. Edit: And how do you test your soil? per previous comment.

[@simplifygardening]

In a home situation it would take thousands of years to use them up and dont forget that microbial life is adding them from the stone and particles already in your soil. adding dust does nothing until the microbes break it down which takes years there is already enough of this particles sizes in your soil. Its probably a bit different where argiricultral places and farm have killed most of their soil life. Rock dust is not required if your organic. and does no good if you use chemicals because there are no microbes to break it down

[@sarah-janegarnell9894]

I have very heavy soil, I guess it could be useful for drainage; But sharp sand is a lot cheaper and I add lots of well rotted organic material to encourage worms and that works brilliant for me.

[@simplifygardening]

Yes Sarah-jane sand is much much cheaper

[@clarelove3738]

Well done, Tony, that needed to be said. Better adding good organic, humus-making stuff than a load of dust. 👍

[@simplifygardening]

Yes Clare it did need to be said and hopefully this made sense to most

[@eddielloyd13]

Tony i love the truth been told, these so called experts are just run by profiteers and haven't a breeze whats good for our garden. My grandfather thought me allot, he once said a healthy garden have worms and insects, biodiversity is what you or i , or anyone else should be doing, worm casting are great for the soil, plus do a soils ph test, rotate your veg correctly, and very important rest the soil after about 3 years. Great stuff Buddy. Your programming is magic. Love the videos brother.

[@simplifygardening]

Cheers Eddie. Your grandfather is a wise bloke

[@WhatWeDoChannel]

Thank you for being brave enough to put this video out! I have done my own bit of research and know that rock dust is just a scam. I always cringe when I see a KZbin gardener adding rock dust, I just never had the nerve to actually leave a comment and tell them. Because you are so respected in the gardening community you are in a good position to let folks know the truth about rock dust! I so agree that people should be putting their hard earned money into organic matter instead! Now, will anyone step forward and tell us about biochar🤫😬! Klaus

[@simplifygardening]

That may even be on the card So watch this space :)

[@racheljayne2404]

@@simplifygardening i'd love to see someone from the uk do a inoculated ( charged ) biochar video :) x

[@alex46215]

Is Azomite considered to be Rock Dust? I mean, it is rocks....and its broken down to dust.. let me know your review on AZOMITE

[@casper1240]

Ive heard that you can put horse shit on concrete to make your own compost rather than soil ,ive heard some gardeners say the worms will already be in the manure ! any thoughts ?

[@simplifygardening]

Worms will be in the manure if its stood for a few days, but much better to keep it on soil if possible

[@BionicRasta]

You could do another trial comparison this season between plants grown with rockdust & ones without?

[@simplifygardening]

Natty I have done it time and time again, the prob is that you wouldnt be able to tell if the nutrients ive already put in the ground would keep the growth the same

[@remineralizetheearth]

Data from recent studies back up the efficacy of remineralization from gardens to forests to stabilize the climate. Most KZbin gardeners critical of rock dust set up demonstrations at scales where the benefits of rock dust are negligible. Remineralize the Earth collaborates with researchers who work alongside farmers and communities around the world to implement remineralization as a key strategy to stabilize the climate.

[@simplifygardening]

I have never said that it doesnt help remineralising the earth. My video was based for gardeners. this is a waste of time for the average gardener to use as they have not utilised anything in their soils. Farmers and massive forrests and the like are growing huge monocrops constantly for hundreds of years. this doesnt happen in a garden

[@watchman0311]

Use crushed poryphic rock. Basalt or andesites. Have to get it at a mine or quary for like 25 dollars for 14 tones, plus 75 for the driver, not 20 dollars for a 40 pound bag.

[@wendyrowland7787]

I thought rock dust was a cheap alternative to sand for concrete making, we had a load from a local quarry and I used some of it to mix with compost and soil to help with the drainage. We also added some to the livestock barn floor to fill holes. Now a few scoops of that with historic manure particles, is very good indeed. It could be worth testing the product for trace elements to see if the claims are genuine, perhaps trading standards could look into it. Better to use such things as seaweed.my husband disowns the beach bag lady collecting