Rocket Stove Water Heater III Build -PT2-

[@tectalabyss]

Great build Sir. Has an old man, I remember the wood cook stoves having a water tank beside the oven. It worked but took a lot of wood to heat the water.Of course with a large pot of beans simmering till supper,it was ready to use that evening. Summers were awful for our Mom's. All my best.

[@olddanb1]

Excelent stuff. Ideas. When I made my solar water heater, I eventually swapped my heated water output pipe into the bottom of the water tank, with the feed from the water tank to the solar heater taken from the top of the holding tank. The whole water tank heated in half the time. I also fitted a thermostat to the heat out. That ran a car windscreen washer pump 12v that pumped the cool side into my solar heater. That in turn was powered by a little 5w solar panel and car battery. Cheers, Don.

[@LucasGentry]

I've enjoyed watching your videos the last couple days, but I feel compelled to say, my favorite part of the whole process for some reason is that weighted "extra hand" contraption you've got there :-)

[@musicman59753398]

Lucas Gentry I was admiring that as well

[@WarrenStiggs-ji5mh]

Tig welding is satisfying and attractive art ....and its a pleasure to watch..i am certainly injoying your videos!! I like your system of research and development by actually building and testing and improving your design ....good luck and keep them coming!!

[@speedbuggy16v]

First 20 seconds is my life....... Thanks for sharing your successes and failures with us so we can shorten the amount of experimentation we have to do. PS good looking family, I always enjoy the kids in the shop. Not to mention the dancing chicken!

[@mikeconnery4652]

We are all learning and you are an excellent teacher.

[@ralphmadi5784]

I think u did very well for part 2 of the bill.. all the best to you and the family 👪 🙂👍🏿.. keep sharing ideas..

[@mickgatz214]

Your work is amazing and teach me the basics of TIG welding. Silicon Bronze sounds like a good all rounder......

[@victoryfirst2878]

A pipe coupling is the name fella generally stated or threaded coupling to be technical and right on!!!. The heat exchanger should be made from stainless steel. You would not have to replace the stuff in your lifetime. Righty tighty is the way I remember the teflon tape wrapping direction. Keep on making great videos for us all on KZbin to see.

[@muddymuddymuddmann]

Inside a natural gas water heater, there is a pipe that runs up the middle of the water tank. that pipe doesn't do the job efficiently enough. So they added one more trick, They added a flat piece of sheet metal that twists left and then right alternately every 6 inches throughout the total length. :) This keeps the hot exhaust in friction with the sides of the inner pipe. Because of this friction, they are able to use less flame to heat the water in a short time. My idea for the fins you welded to twist in alternate directions to increase heat absorption. I hope this brings more ideas for you to play with. Another example would be the cooling fins on the piston of a motorcycle being at an angle to press the wind against the fins for better heat transfer. :) I've been watching your vids off and on for days, and have been enjoying them thoroughly. Thanks for all the hard work and detail in tutoring, and editing. Great job! MUDDy Many good blessings to you and yours.

[@4everchristian]

ALLWAYS so nice to see the kids haapy days and a true bless of GOD

[@rronmar]

Thermosiphon hates horizontal runs. In your case the upper hose actually droops down slightly. Those bubbles coming out the top and the temp you measured on the upper hose indicate to me you were boiling slightly in the tube. Raise your drum 24” and move it 24” closer to the stove so the hose is at a 45 degree angler or more. If you can get that outlet pipe at the stove to point upward also it will also aid in flow. Heat transfer is about temp difference, time and surface area. The faster the flow, the higher the volume of cooler water is input at the bottom which maintains the greatest temp difference between water and hotgas and the highest energy transfer rate. More fins on the tube would be good, more tubes/more surface area would be better but you need to get the flow going upward from the stove outlet...

[@paulstott3444]

Just watched the vids and was going to make comment, but you have said it all for me.

[@Serenityindailylife]

The steel 20mm piece is called a bung if it gets welded, if you screw it on both sides, it's a socket. Correct way to put on plumbers tape: take tape, throw in garbage, buy the liquid sealer...squeeze it on the threads.

[@dolvaran]

I don't know if anyone has mentioned this before, but here you go anyway! In the Army, we had a similar sort of water heater - only it was petrol-powered. Imagine a 'J'-shaped tube, with the curve of the 'J' suspended in the water (we had galvanised steel dustbins as this was for washing up and such like, so the 'J' was fairly deep and the whole thing hangs on the side of the dustbin). There is a small fuel tank attached to the top of the lower end of the 'J' which has a small valve to allow petrol to drip into the tube and splash onto an angled plate welded across part of the tube. You set up the drip, and then drop a lighted match down the lower end. The idea is that the petrol ignites (with somewhat of a bang!) and sets up a draught out of the higher end (chimney). The heat of the flame forces the fuel to vaporise at it hits the plate. The vapour is drawn down into the flame by the draught and feeds the fire. The sound it makes is somewhat reminiscent of a pulse jet (which is what this is sort of related to - albeit in very small scale). The result is very hot water in less than an hour (it will boil). The downside is, lighting it is an 'experience'!

[@radargenta]

very interesting, do you recommend a video on this subject for me to watch?

[@davekauffman8727]

The hottest part of the stove will be right by the burning fuel, that's where I'd wrap the copper tubing. Very practical use for a rocket stove since the burn is so hot, but a way needs to be found to supply fuel steadily, you don't want to get out of the shower to stoke the fire! Your girls are adorable, I'm happy for you, God bless you and your family.

[@curtdunlap6818]

I know you mentioned that you were restricted where you could put that hot side outlet. Ideally it should be 1/3 to 1/2 of the way up the tank. The hot water would rise to the top of the tank naturally and the convective circulation would help to stir the pot, as it were much lower in the tank. In no way should that outlet be lower in the tank than out of the rocket heater as your expressed your concerns on steam trapping. I did that once with a homemade outdoor wood boiler. The wife did not appreciate the mayhem that would follow one morning thereafter. I like that hold-down gadget! I need to build one of them for my welding table, but I'll need to build my welding table first. You build such cool gadgets! Thanks!

[@Offgrid531]

Thanks. I'm finding you filming so relaxing. Pleased you don't need a coil. I'm planning a brick outdoor rocket to heat water and after watching this I'll just use a long section of pipe in the riser. Cheers.

[@truckerdaddy-akajohninqueb4793]

144 F is excellent. The blue barrel could work as a mass heater in my cabin, a proper radiator! Awesomeness

[@navigator902]

Another master piece... love watching creativity in action..... very exciting. inspires.

[@markhemerick6263]

Idea put a elbow on the to hoses in the tank. Face them oposit each other to create a swirling effect. This will slowly mix the water with no power. Asome VIDEO thank you for your time!

[@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork]

Sweet! Awesome you got spend time with your grandmother! yep copper melting point around 1700 F Steel around 2500 F 12 degrees F out here right now... send some sun back up here mate! yes, insulation contains heat enough to crack the gasses that require higher temps to crack... then they can be burned as a gas when mixed with oxygen... no insulation prevents that "gas crack"... for more info look into wood gasifiers. Excellent progress! as far as mixing... dont.. use your hot water off the top... then you don't dilute the whole hot water column as new cold water is introduced. bring cold water in the bottom.

[@LittleAussieRockets]

That's great insight, thanks mate!

[@grumpyjohntxredneckrc6346]

Stainless Tubing Is The Best For Rocket Heat Coils, Is A Bit More Costy But Will Never Wear Out... Thanks

[@douglasfur3808]

I've melted aluminum playing around with biodiesel burns. In this situation the water in the tubes should keep them from melting. You're totally right about the function of insulation in rocket stoves, how it enables the high combustion temperatures that are needed for complete combustion. In plenty of youtube videos of al metal stoves you can observe the orange to yellow flames of partial combustion. When you see the bright yellow heading towards violet in a well insulated riser with secondary air, you know you're cooking. www.engineeringtoolbox.com/melting-temperature-metals-d_860.html

[@randypolk7781]

@@douglasfur3808 c

[@paulferris2218]

@@douglasfur3808 that's good information to know 👍 👌

[@shelliesman7552]

I think the copper coils are by far the better material, AND conductivity. My Uncle was a Rancher, and the horning irons, used to cauterize the cut off horns of the calves at the roundups, were solid copper slugs. These would go directly into the propane hot water heater burner/stove contraption that he built. These lasted for many many years. I don’t know how many years of roundups that they were used for, but I’m sure that I was the only person who ever built them back up, after I had started my own welding business on the side. I just stripped the insulation off of some electrical wire I bought, and I TIG welded it over the areas that really needed it. If you stick with copper, you won’t be fighting rust as well. I think you would be pleasantly surprised at just how trouble free and long your copper coil stove would last. How about putting a hand pump circuit from the bottom to the top, of the tank, on the outside, that you could just crank periodically to mix the water temperatures? You could put a thermometer at the top of the tank, and one at the bottom, mounted on the outside, and right in plain view of the water pump crank, and your older daughter could come out periodically and crank the pump, (possibly geared up) until she see’s the temperature on the two thermometers within 10 degrees Fahrenheit of each other, or whatever temperature you decide to tell her. 🤷🏻‍♂️ That is, unless you also want to make a separate boiler/coil system to run a little steam engine, that will owner your circulation water pump! 😜 You could make a Sterling Engine that sits atop the stove, that is capable of turning a very small water pump. The problem being, making one large enough to actually be able to turn a little water pump capable of actually mixing the water sufficiently. I enjoy your videos here in the United States. I am a Disabled Precision R&D Machinist and Welder. I like Aussies also!

[@TheGazmondo]

So pleased to see how you’ve developed the heat exchanger, love how the project is going . I still think the secret is to continue increasing the number of elements, until the heat from the stack is taken right down, and into the water, so that you can put your hand over the top of the stack. Seen some of the projects where this is possible due to the heat taken up in the mass of material, concrete ....over great distance. But I have to say I do find yours far more interesting, due to it’s huge potential, and flexibility.. Brilliant !!

[@WarrenStiggs-ji5mh]

I'm going to make a statement...that has been mentioned before...you innovation and continual design improvements are great and your generosity to share is to be comended...but i think for your future financial security...you might think about actual legal protection of your idea ideas...as they become more sophisticated and unique...and innovative. Im just saying these are getting good and possibly commercially marketable designs.. Continuing good luck brother...i hope you make it big time !

[@salimufari]

I thought of two things while watching this that might help. 1. The fins could be angled to help with the vortex generation and also catch more hot air leaving the riser. 2. Adding elbows to the feed and fill inside the barrel so they pulled and pushed the same direction to help stir the tank water. Worth a look see.

[@nicholashunt8314]

i had a similar thought, angling the elbows to make the water spin counter-clockwise for us in the southern hemisphere or clockwise for northern

[@thomasgreene5750]

A few suggestions you might want to consider in your efforts to improve the water flow rate through the heater pipe inside the stove and the mixing of the water inside the barrel: 1. Raise the barrel so that its bottom is several feet above the elevation of the top hose connection on the stove. 2. Connect the water outlet hose from the stove to the center of the bottom of the barrel, with the flow into the barrel pointing up. 3. Place a sheet-metal cylinder inside the barrel that has a radial clearance of maybe 4 to 6 inches from the side of the barrel. The cylinder should rest on the bottom of the barrel and should extend upwards to about one foot below the water level in the barrel. 4. Leave the hose supplying water to the stove connected to the side of the barrel, but move the connection down to maybe 4 to 6 inches above the bottom of the barrel. I suspect these modifications might help, and they are much easier to do than modifying the stove or adding a circulation pump and bubbler. P. S. The internally threaded fittings you used to to connect up your pipes are called threaded pipe couplings or pipe unions in the U. S.

[@BRI33NOR]

Very good advice. Draw the hot water you wish to use from the top

[@taoisisis6697]

Those suggestions are very wise ! Why dont you try to buy a real boiler (electric one) and build a permanent solution for your needs ? I have find one who's made to use with solar panels this would be a must for your use.... If you are in a sunny place may I suggest you look at this opportunity ? Congratulations and best wishes for the new year who's coming soon 😊 Big hugs to your kids and wife,from France with love 😊

[@thomasgreene5750]

@@taoisisis6697 Those suggestions are based on adapting the principles used to enhance flow in natural-circulation boilers used in coal-fired electric power plants to the rocket stove concept the fellow is trying to perfect.

[@WarrenStiggs-ji5mh]

Wow incredible improvement on the first concept build...and possibly without overthinking the circulation issue: maybe a 90 degree outlet with a reduction in outlet diameter to create just a bit of back pressure and i suppose a thought asto witch direction you wouldmix the water i think a natural tendency would be clockwise here in America ... counterclockwise in Australia? I'm not sure if it matters in this situation... strangely enough it matters with toilets ...so maybe someone with a formal thermal phisics major will weigh in on this subject,,, Any way absolutely awesome build ....should insulate....should also patent and market this was very impressive my friend...

[@stephenriordan2616]

Nice! I've been tinkering along the exact same lines as you! Nice to see what you've done there!!

[@willyam9735]

Take a tip from gas water heaters and design your tank for maximum direct impingement. If, for instance, you welded a sleeve onto the vertical pipe of your rocket stove as a water jacket and insulated the outside of that you would increase your efficiency quite a bit. Maybe just skip all that effort and find a used gas water heater then fit your rocket assembly to the bottom of it! Keep in mind that you already have roughly 1.5 meter of vertical stack inside the water heater tank so you wouldn't need too much vertical when attaching your rocket stove to it. If you do it that way be sure to check the inside of the tube in the water heater to be sure it doesn't have a swirl insert. Leaving that in place would be asking for trouble when burning wood.

[@craigtegeler4677]

Hi there Mate! You are really picking up speed on your projects and you are thinking fast on your feet now! I have noticed that your welding technics are even more vastly improved and the build quality is nearly the best also! I do know that that doesn't happen overnight and I am seeing some great work coming to fruition compared to so of your earlier videos. I also realize that some of these projects that the reclaimed materials make the best materials for prototyping such builds. Having a young family and being heavily invested in your shop, tools and equipment always draws constraints as to how far you just may gout realize this: I think that in due time, you will make a great name for yourself and perhaps in the heating industry, which could be your fall back, should for any reason or reasons that your regular job should dry up or fold; "God Forbid"! You have a very solid foundation and you are not afraid to experiment and i am fairly certain that you know how to source things even though they are very expensive! Some of your discoveries that you have, you might want to consider to keep under your thinking cap though, even if you are most willing to share with everyone else. This could mean whether that may succeed beyond your wildest expectations or not. Some things that are already in the mainstream are often shared, but shear product improvements and/or new innovations should be kept a closer watch for your sake and your family's sake! Don't forget that there are others out in the world and yet some of your closest neighbors to where you live that will rip-off your plans and ideas just to make a claim to their fame too! You have already demonstrated your can-do attitude and even in the midst of strife as per where you live and the local economy. There are many folks that can truly depend on you for great quality work but take big-time heed on eye protection, ventilation, and respirator technologies to keep you afloat for the long-haul. I had known a neighbor of mine that lived 3 doors down from me, that had worked for a local welder's union that had been on the job for some 18-20 years and his health was failing at an extreme rate and I was so alarmed as a kid that I was almost afraid to actually go by and see him. His wife would often tell me how he was not well and that he should not be bothered and with me knowing because he was actually struggling just to stay alive! I had also witnessed how my own father had respiratory illness, and thus absolute precautions must be taken into consideration for your sake and the sake of your family. Take care and God Bless!

[@LittleAussieRockets]

Thank you for the encouragement. I really do appreciate it. God bless you and your family as well.

[@donaldstearne446]

being an AUSSIE show you would be familiar with METTERS No 1 ,2 & 3 Size kitchen stoves , Quite often had a Lazy S copper coil in the fire box under the hot plate ( thermal syphon ) to an insulated tank above the stove on the other side of the kitchen wall , thus connected to your house plumbing . As to your heating time (slow ) the rate in your chimney by using a series of 1/2 Dozen ( D shape ) baffles welded to a rod 50 mil apart & look opposite to each other or an auger spiral to slow heat loss in the area required . as an Aussie show we use SPANNERS not wrenches & for your ( American ) audience they know how to convert METRIC TO INCHES . Cheers The Don .

[@customhaines2510]

Good job! The threaded socket is called a threaded coupling. You can get half couplings as well, only threaded from one end and intended for this kind of application. The Teflon tape does fill in gaps as you say, it is also a lubricant that lest you tighten further than you would dry and do so without gaulling the fittings.

[@videomentaryproductionschannel]

That's a much , better idea, seems to work well, but as you say could do with insolation but it's not very big and works well, nice build would be interested in seeing you insolating and then testing to see the improvment, good video, all the best Merry christmas to you and your family

[@tonyshaw7389]

Other people might might not classify as rocket stove but I do and I make them without the insulation and they work just as good so good job on your

[@Youralwayswhining4367]

Good idea keep up the good work bud

[@NotaPix]

thanks for your videos. stimulate my creativity (excuse my bad english -google translator-). I would ask you for advice on having hot water in a different way but I have no experience: I thought of putting a metal tank (a cylinder closed at the top and bottom) around and concentric to the chimney of the stove. then a bell with a larger diameter than the water tank would close the whole thing, and the smoke outlet would be at the bottom. the entrance and exit of the water tank would pass through the bell and connect to the external circuit (or another larger tank). in a nutshell they would be three concentric 'cylinders': the chimney in the center (10 cm diameter for example), then there is the 'cylinder'/tank of the water (diameter 20 cm. and tall as the chimney) and finally the bell that covers all (diameter 40). I think the water should warm up quickly because it absorbs heat from the entire chimney and from the heat coming from inside the bell. is an idea that could work? thanks and greetings from Venezia.

[@LittleAussieRockets]

That sounds excellent! Just make sure your system is open so steam pressure can escape. I'm sure you already know that. Would love to see the finished stove.

[@NotaPix]

@@LittleAussieRockets thanks for your quick reply. I follow your videos and I try to understand from the images why I don't understand English, so you did well to write me about the 'steam pressure' factor I didn't know. as I told you I have no experience and I don't want to make trouble. it is better that I will be assisted by a qualified person here where I live. thanks again and congratulations for your projects :)

[@BROKE-N-NATIVE5789]

♡Your Tenacity!

[@craigsymington5401]

Ppotty has "perfected" this simply. Different circumstances but highly educational, even tho he is a Brit😆

[@GordieGii]

Regarding the fish tank bubbler, if you raised the tank enough that the hot pipe could enter at the middle of the barrel, then put a pipe (lets say around 100mm) from almost the bottom to almost water surface and the hot pipe in at the middle, then the hot water rising would suck cold water from the bottom. No air required.

[@TheShack444]

Great vids and enjoy your projects! it is really important that the hot water tank is higher than the boiler! and that there is a gradual rise on all horizontal pipework! warm water wants too rise! and cold water wants to drop! one last little point is the hot water inlet on the water tank should be about half way up the tank! and i am sure you know this already! but steam is extremly dangerous! as it can expand too 2000 times its orignal volume!

[@cardinia1]

always fascinating stuff mate win or lose love the share fullstop, long as you had a blast w gran ma everything else is a bonus

[@navigator902]

Wow, it looks already hot at 10 am.... what finally got me to move was the weather. Global weather wanderer ... Success hot baths for everyone.

[@mohawksteel2215]

VERY PROFESSIONAL VIDEOS and so much to learn, thank you.I wonder if you put the HOT water inlet on the bottom instead of top you would get better circulation.

[@mickhulsen6825]

If you narrow the top opening by 50 % you will increase chamber temperature alot increasing flow and heating rate.. also add air holes close to tip of flames to increase gas burn maybe

[@karmicmessenger]

How about a double wall riser with the water flowing in between the walls, no internal pipes at all? seems to me that would maximize heat transfer to the water. I'm a mechanic and that's how engines are cooled. Just a thought.

[@MultiVoiceofreason]

I built my own aircrete gun via the honeydo carpenter it works amazingly well and his refractory mix is spot on.

[@MultiVoiceofreason]

@marthale7 yes the sodium silicate is a must for high temperatures

[@thepostman41]

You should add a check valve ( 0ne way valve ) on the inlet side. This will make sure the water circulates through the system correctly and more efficiently

[@navigator902]

Love the music.... too.

[@paulgoodridge7957]

good video keep em coming very informative thanks

[@tippyzuk1]

I really enjoy your videos showing the design / build process. Have you considered a submersible rocket stove for hot tubs? There are stoves that sit in the actual hot tub and I was thinking why not a rocket!

[@tyronetripod4047]

I think a welder should be able to weld a pipe within in a pipe and make and entire water jacket over the entire riser tube, thereby collecting maximum heat from the riser tube and make much more efficient use of wood and much faster heat transfer. I bet it would work so well you would need to add a dedicated water pump to keep hot water from getting too hot too fast and steaming off. A piezo-electric type 12 v dc pump would be ideal as it would also run off the heat/electricity made from the fire but a small solar panel could do it too

[@craigsymington5401]

You don't want to be cooling the fire and allowing gasses to escape unburned. There are several considerations when designing and building rocket stoves, tho its horses for courses...

[@MarcoPolo-yt3ew]

I like your videos good work

[@TroyBlass]

Nice work man! I plan on building a similar style as yours, but with a copper coil around the stack leading to a steel one inside the stack.

[@bearbellyprospecting1941]

The fins on the steel water pipe in riser may work more efficiently if they were 20 to 50mm long and welded in a zig zag configuration to absorb more heat. Similar to a Kero fridge.

[@TerryGilsenan]

The gaps in your welds on joining the fins to the pipe will actually have a BIG effect. Steel is a poor conductor of heat compared to Cu and many other metals. You need as much of the fin contact with the pipe as possible.

[@paulforster6229]

Oh and by the way, the idea that an open vented system wont burst is dangerously wrong. The corrosion and precipitates that come out of the water can and do block pipes, the 'fur' that builds up on immersion heater elements proves that, this can and does block pipes and could lead to dangerous steam pressure build up. Sorry to sound a worry-wart but don't make assumptions like that. I had to deal with exactly that type of problem a couple of month ago, fortunately nobody was hurt that time, just a lot of ruined clothing and a flooded kitchen/ceiling repair. And a new heating system was installed (too late though). Good luck, I wish you well.

[@LittleAussieRockets]

Thanks mate for the heads up. 👍

[@paulferris2218]

I know all systems have their dangers but surely an open system is safer?

[@DubiousEngineering]

Cracking water heater! ... I’m thinking of adding coiled copper pipe to mine... I like the idea of a fish tank bubbler... solar powered?

[@TheShack444]

love it! but be better if barrel was higher even on next floor. also give more pressure for gravity fed Hot water! great project.

[@KODArunner]

I realize you are finished with your build, but, here;s an idea for a future hot water build. Instead of making your chimney from 4" pipe, make it from 6" pipe and then you can make your heat exchanger pipe out of 2" to absorb more heat. Also, you will be able to attach a 4th exchange strap. Now if you want to go ALL OUT, you can make that exchange strap into a cork-screw and attach your Copper Coil to the outside of the riser pipe, as a pre-heater. But what do I know? lol

[@paulferris2218]

I like your ideas, close to what im thinking of trying.i was thinking of using an old oxygen tank for my heat exchanger, with an old gas tank for my fire box,you can then run a copper coil around the outside and put another bigger gas sleeve over that filling the void with sand to create a thermal store

[@roots8924]

I have no input jjst learning stuff. Lol this is great stuff! Thank you for putting your info out there.

[@KODArunner]

Air-Creat/Rock Wool insulation to the burn chamber and riser both will cut down on the amount of fuel it takes to create the hot water. Adding a pond pump to the bottom of the tank will keep your water mixing. In another build you did you used a external water pump to stop vapor lock, you could use the same pump here and add an elbow to the outlet hose to direct the water downwards to the bottom of the tank, heating the water from bottom up. For a different build using hot water/steam, try making a Steam Generator out of a two stroke weed eater. Who doesn't need extra electricity?

[@philippe5518]

Two thoughts, 1st, You could raise the Hot water reservoir so that the hot water inlet pipe/hose can still be level or rising and be lower where it enters into the reservoir, this will resolve the hot water mixing in the tank. 2nd, If you cannot raise the reservoir, you could add a 90 degree bend to the hot water inlet pipe inside the reservoir pointing to one side and slightly downwards, this should help with mixing the water.

[@OffgridSecrets]

Good work brother!

[@derby1919]

Hi after watching your brill rocket stove hot water heater. With you being in Auz how about making a solar hot water heater, as its free heat and more eco friendly.. loving your videos keep them coming.

[@tonyshaw7389]

Should’ve put your copper inside the steel then you wouldn’t have to worry about the water and it would still heat up what you want the way you want to be no worries but do whatever way you want have a nice day

[@konkasheep98]

If it’s being used in a closed loop system, all the available oxygen will be used up within a day, and so long as no new water/oxygen is added there will be no/very little further corrosion inside the system

[@afringedweller]

Good try - and good honesty too.

[@turtlewatts6323]

love the idea and the build, I have thought about doing but never seem to do it. Just for my own knowledge, I would like to know what it would do if the hot water was somehow put in the bottom of the barrel. I know heat rises even in water, Water heaters in homes all have the cold water inlet feeding into the bottom of the tank. This would stir the water as the hot water rises. I feel it would require a pump, But then again you are experimenting, so why not see what happens.

[@turtlewatts6323]

Maybe add a check valve in the hot side if it tries to push back but then may get steam build up but your working with an open top, no pressure build-ups. Again just playing testing ideas. And forget all the rust and corrosion stuff I know you're just seeing what it can do and then you will go high tech.

[@williamadams9318]

Your trying to reinvent the wheele. A boiler (steam or hot water) uses a series of pipe perpendicular to the fire box. Always a "u" shape the fire box is open at the back, the flames travel through half the pipe stack then back and up the chimney. Put a bunch of soda straws inside two disposable cups with both ends removed, you'll get the visual. Many small pipes make greater surface area, thus better heat exchange. You'll be able to make steam. Go look at a commercial boiler.

[@williamadams9318]

@Freddy McIntire well, yes , I'm trying to explain the "what" it is that he's trying to replicate. It is impossible to produce "pressure" until and unless you contain hermetically. A self circulating water heater would be like an old time wood fired kitchen stove that had a hot water tank. Some used a side reservoir that would percolate water into the upper tank as it heated it. No pressure, just steam bubbles rising as a carrier, never sealed from the atmosphere, thus no pressure danger. An overflow would return excess as the upper tank reached full.

[@johndurr6070]

I am not a engineer by any means but your last boiler just needed a medium to hold more of the heat. What if you put sand in the collar that houses the copper it would hold the heat and once warm might speed up heating and circulation. Just a thought.

[@paulforster6229]

Hi Guys, This idea of rocket stoves (or any other type of wood burner) that does heat and hot-water has been done to death (I'm guilty of it too) but in my case I have worked on the thermo-chemistry of the combustion of 'wood' and other combustion sources. Wood is by far the most variable thing in the equation, not just its density or sizes but also its initial moisture content (even totally dried wood actually releases water during the combustion) some of it is chemically bound in the volatiles released during pyrolysis. Only charcoal can be reasonably analysed for thermo-combustion purposes. AND the differences in air flow/combustion during start-up and/or re-stoking are a nightmare to analyse. On top of that the chemical differences (reduction-oxidation) depending on composition and temperature makes the life of the stove/flue materials totally unpredictable from hours to years depending on combustion products and heat cycling. And trying to get multi-function heating and hot-water from that as well makes it impossible to get any steady efficiency. Then you have the problem of fine ash and tars building up and clogging parts that you cannot see or get at to clear. That said I designed and built several systems from off the shelf and home-made parts that not only largely self regulate but do either of cooking and/or heat and/or hot water, by selecting/turning discs in the flue to select routing of the flue gasses. The first did heating and a hot-plate/oven, second added hot-water, third added variable secondary hot-air heating. I eventually parred the final design down from a plumbing nightmare into a cooking/heating/hot-water system that you could select each/any function by turning simple discs/valves in the flue pipe. And it is expandable to cover a variety of heating requirements. The main combustion chamber and fuel feed is of stainless-steel 200mm dia 700-1000mm high with a detachable ash-box 200dia x 200-300high, primary air inlet controlled by two 'spin-discs' as these give the best control from full bore to virtually air-tight. The water heating ,originally flow-driven by convection, became self pumping by use of two rumble-valves, which although a bit noisy if left totally alone alerted one to adjust the flue-flow. I did design a system to adjust this automatically but have not built that yet. In short you did not need try and re-invent the wheel on this project, especially as it can be dangerous with potential leaks and blockages (leading to bursts) and the danger of super-heated steam and boiling hot water. I overcame the blockage/leakage/bursting problem in the water-heater section largely by using indirect water heating and the primary coil used a closed system containing an anti-corrosion solution, it also had secondary safety features of 'melt-able plugs' and release valves that vented safely if over-heat or over-pressure occurred, a deliberately 'weakest link' pipe also situated to vent safely if all other safeties failed to function. I don't want you to stop experimenting, I commend you trying, but PLEASE either do more research and build something to tested specifications instead of experimenting with something that can be very dangerous and/or make safety features such as in my designs a priority . That potential danger is why water-boilers and heat-exchangers of all types are so heavily regulated. There are hundreds (thousands?) of tried and tested wood-stove/water-heaters and designs available, every one of them has problems, some of them are downright lethal. Don't even get me started on Carbon-monoxide. I wish you good luck. Be safe, Be vigilant, Behave. ;-)

[@Ken-rk3by]

You sound like a over-analytical wood-burning hot water salesman !!!

[@paulforster6229]

@@Ken-rk3by Nah, a potter. And a practical chemistry nerd. Been there and got the t-shirt on many different types of kilns that do wood/coal/charcoal/lpg/methane/electric etc etc. Also interested in using available materials to provide zero carbon footprint when heating etc. i don't particularly like the phrase 'carbon-footprint', a footprint is something dainty you leave in wet sand, it should be 'carbon skid-mark' much more evocative and nearer to the truth. No?

[@paulferris2218]

I like your ideas and the fact you went with an indirect system, seams a bit dangerous to me but you obviously know what you're talking about, i was thinking about various designs built using old gas and oxygen tanks, but rather than running the coil inside the fire box wrapping it around the box,with an outer sleeve and filling the void with sand in order to create a thermal store. What do you think of the idea ? I'm also thinking of using an old radiator and electric 12 volt fan from a car or truck, working in much the same way as it does in a car but in the opposite direction id appreciate your thoughts 😀

[@matthewthomas7978]

I’m curious if placing copper coiled piping inside the center of the plastic drum and connecting it to the inlet and outlet so the stove recirculates the same water over and over thru the piping to heat the water in the drum. I hope this makes sense. I’m not very articulate.

[@paulferris2218]

Makes prefect sense to me, same principle as a hot water tank

[@aeonproelium]

Have you considered putting angled pieces on the inlet and outlet ends of water hose inside the barrel that would create a whirlpool effect? That might help to distribute the heat in the reservoir without using electric pumps.

[@fredericraymond2487]

both your inlet and your outlet should be at the base, the hot water coming in the bottom hill raise and warm up the rest of the water. when your outlet is at the top, the water don't mix ant you have boiling water at the top and cold at the bottom.

[@Djeral100]

You should put the inlet and outlet of the barrel near the bottom of the barrel and raise the barrel so much that the inlet and outlet of the stove are lower than the barrel inlet and outlet. This way you are sure that all the water heats evenly.

[@zachwehunt8606]

Teflon tape needs to be used with the rule of 2. 2 threads exposed and 2 wraps. The tape lubricates the threads to get them tight. It does not seal. You are tightening the tapered threads to get the seal

[@dada-mw5yi]

First off- not a wedler- nor own one of theses- but still love your intelligent outlook and creativity. [ I think most of us will love to see the girls grow]. My real Q? Why isn't whis tech- in our poor countries--- Where there are forced to use natural burning material in old fashioned fire pits/ What I really mean is - why .they are not using ROCK stoves.;;;;; brick/stone ----

[@LittleAussieRockets]

I know. It would help a lot of people reduce the amount of wood needed to be collected, time involved in just staying alive. That is the problem, extreme poverty. They are focused on surviving, not living.

[@h2lo704]

The top inlet to the water tank, could be lower.... much lower actually, you could move the top inlet into the water tank about 6 inches or 120 mm above the water outlet from the water tank, and then move the whole water tank at a level that is above the stove preferably higher than the top water pipe connector in the stove. In that case, you don't have to wait for the water to boil inside the stove before you get water flowing inside the whole system. In short, the heat source that heat up the water should be lower than the whole water tank.

[@grumpyjohntxredneckrc6346]

Very HOT, You Could Also Add A Solar Heat Roof Collector For Summer & Then Use The Wood Burn Rocket In Winter... Also Hang A Big Aluminum / Stainless Pot Into You Tank & You Can Cook Your Dinners, Potatoes, Corn On Cob, Veggies, Shrimps, Lobster, Stews, Etc! LOL Plus Just Put A Coil Of Pipe w/Slight Up Bend Onto Your Cold Inlet Inside Barrel Bottom, That Will Produce A Natural Swirling Mixer... Thanks

[@Addem12]

you could raise the water tank 16" and have an inexpensive small brass , flap style service check valve on the feed to rocket. then your return to tank can be down in the middle section so the water doesn't stratify

[@LittleAussieRockets]

thanks mate, good suggestion.

[@BlueDroneBlues]

If you didn't make a mistake here and there, you wouldn't be learning anything new. I was trying to turn my rocket stove into a pellet stone and unless I wanted to well a whole another attachment and hope it would work right in the end. Just reached a point last night and told myself it just isn't worth it? If I want to do this later on, I will build a better stove that is truly setup right to do wood pellets. Live and learn I guess? Enjoy your videos!

[@michealklonowski5267]

nice job .

[@306champion]

I always enjoy your videos mate.

[@bennyhill3642]

92 that's Awesome!!!

[@cliffmorgan31]

Thermal layering is beneficial to efficiency. Hot staying on top means cooler water going in low equals more flow....

[@supplies4reptiles228]

great really great ,is it save to assume the water self circulates?

[@LittleAussieRockets]

Yes, it does providing the pipes are always hitting uphill on a 7° angle. I'm told 7° is the optimal angle for thermostating.

[@MultiVoiceofreason]

I've been waiting for this so long yay!!!!

[@morganroberts1111]

I thought maybe using a few stainless kegs afor your water heater may make it easier. They're food grade as well.

[@paulfinley8812]

what about using copper piping on the inside of the barrel looping it around the inside from top to bottom to heat the barrel of water at a more even temperature? I'm not sure it would work, but I would be interested in hearing what others think

[@306champion]

25:00 Insulation, how effective would a collar (for want of a better word) be with just an airspace between be? Just a thought.

[@IRowspan]

really love your videos. the idea about adding a bubbler to get the water in the tank moving. just wondering if angling the intake and and return pipe in such a way it would cause a slight vortex to "stir" the water might work ?

[@esimler]

That water is hot to begin with!

[@cliffmorgan31]

More (solid) welding for heat conduction on the fins, and the more fins the more efficient heat transfer.

[@mickgatz214]

What if you use stainless steel for the heating pipe and it's flanges? Would this increase the 'service life' of the unit? I enjoy your videos very much and how constructive you are in manufacturing these hot water units. :) Honestly, I've never done welding, but you put a 'seed' in my head, so maybe I construct a Rocket Stove out of bricks maybe......and put lotsa heating coils in the middle?...hmmmm cheers! Mick

[@josephrileyosullivan]

Have you consider using a cob enclosure (to create additional thermal mass) as a housing? I love your work , I was looking to set up 2 size dual tank project.

[@leemitchell3020]

Stitch welding is stronger than you think. One inch weld of 3/32, 7018, is equal to the strength of a 3/8" bolt 🔩

[@homayounshirazi9550]

"Welding" dissimilar metals with different coefficients of expansion might lead to leakage.

[@danp762]

Hey, I like the channel. Adding an air bubble will increase the dissolved oxygen in the water increasing the corrosion? Here you are adding heat and oxygen which both increase corrosion. As to how much this is going to shorten the service life, I don't know. What you were talking about where the rust kind of protects the base metal, only applies if there is no way for more oxygen to get into the system after, the oxygen in the system at the start is turned into rust? How about putting that copper coil you made in the drum of water and connecting the ends to the to the boiler with that rubber hose? This way you can add something like antifreeze to limit corrosion in the copper coil and boiler. You need an expansion tank of some kind. hopefully one that is open to the air so there is no risk of pressure buildup in the boiler. I used bulkheads from the hydroponic grow store to make the connections thru a 55 gallon drum before. They had a male barded end for the rubber hose and a female NPT thread on the other with a rubber gasket to seal to the drum in the middle. The ones I used were really cheap and I had to use some silicone to get them water tight because the drum wall was so thick to conform to the bulkhead. They make other types of seals that work good with plastic drums and NPT pipe but I had the bulkheads and fittings on hand. What I'm picturing is a loop that starts at bottom of the boiler, goes to a rubber hose, to the bulkhead in the bottom of the tank, to that copper coil (i"d stretch it out to match the rise in the drum), then to a bulkhead at the top of the drum,to some rubber hose, to a tee fitting, to some rubber hose ending at the top of the boiler. The tee is facing up and has a open top tank like a cut up old propane or air tank. Maybe it will work without a pump. Just an idea.

[@kellycarver2500]

I wouldn't be that concerned about 'insulation'. Most people just mix some sand, soil and concrete mix together and bury the thing in it. Watch the earth homes videos, how they build their rockets. It's cool. Nice job on this. Thanx. P.S. I imagine that that would have to be done in thin layers at a time, and let them dry, before adding the next layer, or you could end up with an explosion from the trapped moisture inside, like pottery does if it's put in the kiln not totally dry. (It explodes..) Be careful.. Just sayin.

[@TheGolfinj98]

I currently have 20ft of 1/2 inch copper coiled and sitting in a direct flame. Do you think that 1/2 copper is too small of a diameter that would limit the thermo siphoning? I also get air pockets or boiling occurring. I tried to add a solar hot water circulation pump but it circulated too fast for the water to pick up enough heat