Rockshox 35 Gold RL Service and Upgrade

[@namor216]

Just did my 200 hr service and went smooth thanks to your videos. Feels so much better and should last me until I have enough money saved for a Marzocchi!

[@mikemtbs]

Super happy to hear that!!! I'm saving for a z1 as well

[@jchizzle740]

I just serviced my gold rl using your video. It went very smooth and now my fork is smooth as well! Thanks for making this video!

[@mikemtbs]

I'm so happy to hear that the video was helpful and your fork feels better!

[@radianalba9293]

I just bought used fork rl 35 , I’m thinking going to rebuild and replace seal by my self, your video very clearly and awesome, love it 👍.

[@mikemtbs]

You are very welcome!

[@victorharris4534]

Thank for this video, right now i have problems with my Fork, no Damping , i will try to fix

[@mikemtbs]

Happy to help! There isn't much damping on the 35. Check your oil level once you remove the compression damper. I only feel a difference when it's at the last position before it's "locked out" position.

[@joeMopar412]

Great vid! This is the first Gold 35 servicing video that isn't super dark, shaky cam, and not done by an idiot!

[@mikemtbs]

Thank you very much, that was the idea behind the video. I needed answers about the fork and I figured others could use the info as well

[@joeMopar412]

@@mikemtbs So how many clicks does the rebound adjustment actually have? Seems like a few or more turns from wide open and it was shut..?

[@mikemtbs]

@@joeMopar412 It is 14 quarter turns. That rebound knob doesn't really click reliably so I go by 1/4 turns.

[@joeMopar412]

@@mikemtbs Awesome, thanks! I might just service my forks this weekend. Just to see how they should be performing. I'm not convinced these come out of the factory with as high QA standard as their higher models do..

[@mikemtbs]

@@joeMopar412 they definitely mass produce these forks and I found low oil, no grease, etc. It's very worth looking and making sure everything is working properly.

[@rakam3748]

Thank you for the vid! Just what I needed

[@mikemtbs]

Awesome! Thanks for watching

[@GiGiMTB]

Thanks very informative, I have a similar fork and your video was useful for me to regenerate it.

[@timothydubber549]

Great video, thanks. Bookmarked for use in future.

[@mikemtbs]

Thank you!

[@mrjamieholloway]

Thanks for sharing Mike. A lot of people complaining on the forums about the Rockshox 35 RL Gold small bump sensitivity, saying the fork feels pretty harsh. Do you think the wiper seals you recommend will help with this? Do you think that this harshness could be attributed to stiction on the fork leg stations and that these wiper seals could help with that? Also have you by any experimented with aftermarket compression damper kits available on the market? Or know anyone who has? For example the UP3 way Compression Damper from TF tuned, or something similar? (Expensive at around 250£)

[@mikemtbs]

@mrjamieholloway Installing the low friction SKF wiper seals does make a difference but the fork itself will still feel harsh on your hands/ arms. I have not seen any aftermarket compression damper that will work for the thread size on the damper leg. It would seem that Rockshox made this fork not upgrade-able as the internal diameter of the stanchions are closer to 32mm but not quite and the threads cut into the crown of the fork are a different thread than used on any of their other forks, preventing upgrading of dampers. With the internal diameter of the stanchions being smaller than the rest of their 35mm fork stanchions (on higher priced forks) you cant install the debonair air damper assembly either. Fork, in my opinion, was made to be used until it breaks, then a purchase of a different fork is in order...planned obsolescence. I will be making a video in the future with possible ways to make the fork feel as good as possible where I will work with volume spacers and running a lower psi to try to achieve a use-able front fork for riding longer and harder terrain without beating the hell out of your arms and hands.

[@TheMickyb1994]

I think the lack of upgradability is potentially laziness more than malice! For the motion control damper to work it needed a similar oil volume compared to the forks it was originally designed for (which was late 00s onwards forks which all used 32mm stanchions for a long time). Like the motion control damper, the 35 is a parts bin special, the cheapest way to make it work without reengineering the whole thing was to press some thicker walled stanchions into the crown, then they can reuse crowns, lowers etc from other ranges, whilst making the old motion control dampers work without changes to production line. An absolutely fine fork for the money, although from factory they suck due to bad wipers, too much grease blocking the negative spring air port, and often not enough oil. I wonder if any of the older tf tuned/push motion control upgrades can be retro fitted, rather than looking to modernise with a charger damper etc? I guess it depends on how the damper is attached to the top cap (looks like a plastic adapter piece?)

[@TheStryder400]

Good video mate - love the garden setting as well

[@rohanjs.]

cheers mate, clean, precise commentary. Entertaining also, subscribing for sure!

[@mikemtbs]

Thank you

[@johnnywallace4926]

In the future Mike if you have any problems with disassemble I know a guy named Chuck that could have that thing apart quicker than you can type thank you.Can not guarantee you any results on reassemble.

[@richardcampbell8685]

Thanks for this!

[@MrTaxidriver50005]

Glad you did this vid ad I have 2 pairs of forks to do this week 😁

[@mikemtbs]

Thank you very much! Good luck w forks!! They feel such better after a good service!

[@MrTaxidriver50005]

What's your view on using none proprietary lubes and grease, I already have 5w and 15w fully synthetic motorcycle fork oil and also silicone brake slider grease and I hate being suckered into buying rebranded lubes.....after all rock shocks don't make there own oil.

[@mikemtbs]

@@MrTaxidriver50005 I really think it's all the same, slickoleum is the same as sram butter. As long as it's oil that won't foam up too bad I think it would be ok. I've heard of motorex oil etc being used

[@hellosunshine9915]

Thanks Mike !!

[@mdraihan1067]

my rockshox gold rl 130mm can i extent it 160mm?

[@mikemtbs]

Yes you can. Remove the alltravel spacers. With all of the spacers gone the fork will be 160mm. You may have to add oil to the compression leg to make up the difference in travel length. But it is all possible.

[@michaelderrick8709]

When you stripped your forks down and changed from 150 to 160 travel, did you find you needed more oil in the damper than 170ml? I have just gone from 150 to 160 and replaced seals and oils i out 170ml in the damper, but ots not locking out. I have taken it apart more than once and re measured the oil to make sure i didn't get it wrong, but it made no difference. It worked fone at 150 travel

[@mikemtbs]

Nope, worked fine for me without changing the oil level.

[@lmarques1979]

Hello Mike, I have changed my travel on this fork, when I removed the air spring retainer clip I lost it. I'm not able to find anywhere and I can't reassemble the fork. Do you know where I can find this retainer clip for the 35 Gold RL?

[@mikemtbs]

Unfortunately you have to get one from sram. Your best bet is to ask your local bike shop to order it for you, or they may have one lying around. Personally I'd keep looking for it. It could be weeks to get that part from sram.

[@lmarques1979]

@@mikemtbs thank you mate. I have found on amazon exactly the very same retainer ring (32mm) and fitted perfectly, no air, oil leak at all. I have assembled the fork and everything is working as expected. 🙏🏻 Your video helped me a lot, you have no idea... Thanks for the amazing content

[@mikemtbs]

@@lmarques1979 I am so happy you found the retaining ring! That is amazing!

[@andyhodge9703]

For me too much of this process was not caught on camera which is a shame . I was hoping to get some tips on positioning of the motion control damper lock out on re assembly as mine doesn't fully lock out .

[@mikemtbs]

Sorry to hear that, I have quite a few other videos where I show how to take the fork apart as well. Just browse thru the channel for what your looking for

[@joelarmstrong6127]

Have you tried adding a washer to it made out of a credit card? I heard that helped performance on this fork.

[@mikemtbs]

Haven't tried, if you have a printer you can make one. I don't know how much of a difference it would make though.

[@giovanni1717]

Hi. I have 2021 rs35 gold, so I don't have any sticksion problems. But under heavy braking it vibrates like crazy and i can see the fork kind of flexes on the bottom. Headtube is torqued and have no play. Any suggestions on what can cause that?

[@mikemtbs]

Doesn't sound safe at all. Take it to a bike shop. Could be internals not torqued or something else. I would not ride it till a bike mechanic looked at it. You can also reach out to sram on social media and sometimes you can get a district manager etc. To respond. Use words like not safe:)

[@giovanni1717]

@@mikemtbs thank you. My colleague has the exact same thing. And he has an appointment with a bike shop.

[@mikemtbs]

@@giovanni1717 your welcome. With our bikes having the capability of going 30+mph down a trail its best to just be safe and know your gear is working properly.

[@kbeightyseven1783]

Just to confirm? The foam rings were in there from the factory? There has been reports that some forks have missing foam rings?

[@mikemtbs]

On my fork the phone rings we're in there from the factory Also I have a link in the description for the proper SKF foam and wiper seals

[@zacheryswift3499]

Hey Mike, awesome video. Did you use both the 200 hr service kit AND the upgrade kit? I saw the upgrade kit leaves out the o rings and crush washers.

[@mikemtbs]

I bought the crush washers and o rings separately, I also just bought the oil, grease, and low friction seal kit. The rubber o rings last a long time if you keep them greased. Fork is 3 years old now and rubber orings are still good.

[@zacheryswift3499]

@@mikemtbs awesome thank you. I plan on doing this next week. Where were you able to get the crush washers from?

[@mikemtbs]

@@zacheryswift3499 got them from worldwide cyclery. Wasn't expensive at all.

[@EDCBushcraft]

@@mikemtbscould you list me the exact parts which you bought separately to the upgrade kit? Your video was great and I’d like to service my fork like you did it.

[@mikemtbs]

@EDCBushcraft if you click on more in my video description there are links to buy everything that I used for the video. There are detailed descriptions on their respective websites. Good luck with your service!

[@batstam]

Hello. I Have a new 35 gold rl (not yet installed). I noticed that when I turn the rebound knob there is not a clicky noise. I think that works, but is silent when turning. Also, from fully closed to fully opened I have to turn the knob almost 5 rounds. Is that a lot? Is it normal? My previous fork was a cheap judy silver that had clicky sound when turning the knob and the clicks were near and the knob from fully closed to fully opened was about one round. In your video I noticed that your fork also no male clicks when adjusting. Am I right? Thanks in advance.

[@mikemtbs]

You are correct, welcome to 35 gold ownership. In all seriousness there is no click on rebound and it is barely noticeable between fully closed and open. I get about 15 or 18 quarter turns from closed.

[@batstam]

@@mikemtbs Thank you so much. Because I was thinking my mew fork is broken. Continue the nice videos and have a great day. Greetings from Greece

[@mikemtbs]

Batstam I'm happy to help! When I got my 35 there was little to no information that I could find regarding it, so I've learned a lot and wanted to share that info with others. I will be making one last video on the fork in the next few weeks as I am going to try to repair my now leaking rebound damper. Hope you have a great day and glad o could help.

[@flaviomarzocchi7444]

Is normal a free play on rebound shaft, when you grab the shaft with a hand?

[@mikemtbs]

yes, its normal. There's some wiggle in the shaft.

[@flaviomarzocchi7444]

@@mikemtbs thanks. I have made the service this morning, but in the air leg and lower legs. The idraulic leg i not have touched. I have only noted the play of the shaft

[@Vlad29103]

Are all the tools shown necessary? Are there replacements for fork oil and suspension cleaner?

[@mikemtbs]

The split ring pliers, shock pump, seal seating tool are necessary. You can buy different brand oil and different suspension cleaner. I just used what they recommended as it was easy enough to acquire

[@Vlad29103]

Can I find replacements for the split ring pliers?

[@mikemtbs]

@@Vlad29103 you will absolutely need the split ring pliers. 100% definitely

[@Vlad29103]

@@mikemtbs ah man i was hoping i wouldnt, i hope i have some

[@Sargnort]

A lot of the Gold 35's are defective and need new lowers. Happened to me last year. Rockshox replaced the fork.

[@mikemtbs]

Glad to hear they fixed your issue. I just got new lowers and they sent back scratched upper steering unit, nice huh.

[@johnnydoe66]

My Trek Roscoe came with this fork and two weeks after purchasing the bike, the wiper seal blew out. Turned out that there was an internal leak from the air chamber into the lowers. SRAM sent all new internals, it just sucked that my new bike was in the shop for two weeks waiting on parts.

[@danielhauck6595]

I recently bottomed out my 35 gold rl HARD, and it was harsh enough that the o ring was all the way to the top of the stanchion, and there was a metal on metal sound. That had never happened before. Since then, the fork has made an excessive squishy/squelchy sound, especially when the rebound was set more towards the closed side. In addition, there's not much of a difference in rebound between a fully closed and a fully open rebound damper. Any tips?

[@mikemtbs]

From my experience the squishing oil sound stays especially with the rebound closed. There's rubber bumbers at the bottom of the legs that keep the fork from being damaged when you have a harsh bottom out. Nothing you can really do unfortunately. My fork was quiet for about a week before the squishing sound took over. Made that noise for 4 years, I did all the services and the sound never went away.

[@danielhauck6595]

@@mikemtbs Thanks!

[@erickmarcelolastrafeliu5377]

Hello,the Air shaft Yari its compatible with 35 Gold?

[@mikemtbs]

No

[@mikemtbs]

The diameter of the 35 gold shaft is smaller than any of the other 35mm stantion forks that rockshox makes

[@clinton3178]

What are the psi settings? Thanks

[@mikemtbs]

Depends on your weight. But I was riding around 60psi

[@timo4492]

Hello i have a rockshox 35 gold rl too. My problem is with the forks rebound, it doesn't click when turning and it doesn't make a big difference from fully closed to fully open. Is it normal ?

[@mikemtbs]

Yes that is absolutely normal. There is almost no difference between slow and fast settings and the knob does not click

[@HeathenRides]

Can you change the travel length, I have 140mm can I change the inside stuff to make it 160?

[@mikemtbs]

Go thru my Chanel and I have a video on how to do that. You can do it but you will need new grease and oil.

[@flaviomarzocchi7444]

What oil do you have add on in the lower leg? ( lubrification )

[@mikemtbs]

@flaviomarzocchi7444 add 10mL of 15 Weight Oil in each of the lower legs.

[@Silent_Gold74]

Did you notice a big difference in performance after doing this? I have this same fork and it seems like I never go through all the travel

[@mikemtbs]

Personally I have noticed a huge difference. It feels so much more smooth, and I can finally feel compression. I'm actually floored how much better it is performing. If it felt this good in the beginning from brand new I would have never questioned if something was wrong. There is a chance that when I cycled all of the parts out of the fork that something cleared itself as well. At least I know all the parts work. Anyways big difference for me.

[@pawel6126]

Remove this one token which is installed from factory, put washer in damper, change all oils, use DSG - it helps to mine

[@Silent_Gold74]

@@pawel6126 thanks but I replace fork with factory 38. Wow so much better!

[@pawel6126]

@@Silent_Gold74 i think it was best and wise decision 😉

[@Silent_Gold74]

@@pawel6126 oh me too 😂 I'm having such a better time on the trails now

[@tonymarpalecpec3034]

Whats wrong with my shock it doesn’t lock

[@mikemtbs]

It could be low on oil in the compression side of the leg. Or it could be normal. Not all 35 gold forks completely lock out. Probably have to take it apart to fond out for sure.

[@tonymarpalecpec3034]

I just replace the stanchion and put those part inside the stanchion change the seals and put some oil maybe its not enough oil on it but before it works i just put 120ml of oil so maybe its not enough thanks to your video

[@mikemtbs]

@tonymarpalecpec3034 if you put too much oil in the fork won't bottom out. If not enough oil the fork won't lockout.

[@allenhallman1606]

I thought oil also went into the air side before putting the valve back on. Maybe I mis read

[@mikemtbs]

A small amount of oil goes in the air side. I have a separate video for air shaft maintenance on my chanel. Didn't include the air ahaft on this video.

[@allenhallman1606]

@@mikemtbs oh ok cool, you had me second guessing myself for a minute.

[@leonardoduri]

I noticed that gold 35 has some loud squishy rebound noises (sound like air that is blowing outside the fork). I also tried to change rebound settings but it doesn't make a big difference from fully closed to fully open and noise seems not reducing. Did you get the same problem? Service may reduce this noise? Fork is not loosing air because pressure level doesn't decrease

[@mikemtbs]

That is completely normal. Fork is loud and rebound doesn't make a noticeable difference. I went thru all options to fix it and it never changed. Just using the fork until I damage it enough to warrant a new better fork. Looking into purchasing a Marzocchi Z1 as the 35's replacement.

[@mikemtbs]

Check out my other videos about the fork and subscribe if you want more updates. I have 3 or 4 videos about the 35 gold on my channel.

[@leonardoduri]

Thank you very much for the reply. I will see your videos

[@s2000.]

Do you think this fork would be an upgrade over an Reba? I have a 120mm travel reba, but thought this would be better since i can change to more travel. Plus it has 35mm stanchions instead of 32mm. I can get an used 35 gold.

[@mikemtbs]

@s2000 no do not buy this fork. It's made w old tech put together haphazardly. I've had more problems and headaches than it's worth. The only reason why I tried to work on it and make it better was that it came on my bike when new. Check out marzocchi Z2 instead. Or a low end yari or pike. I can not tell anyone to buy this fork in good faith. The bushings are held in place with glue, the glue fails and messes with the operation of the fork, the fork feels bad to begin with and I think your Reba would feel better. Seriously Marzocchi Z2 or z1 would be an actual improvement. I don't trust this fork to work properly from ride to ride.

[@s2000.]

@@mikemtbs Thanks, that helps a lot.

[@flaviomarzocchi7444]

With the new seals do tou have solve the initial stichtion tipical of that fork?

[@mikemtbs]

Unfortunately with the 35 gold there isn't much you can do other than grease the hell out of the new seals. The low friction skf seals performed better than the flanged seals that came with the fork, but the 35 gold is still a harsh fork. Sometimes the new seals have a break-in period and they will feel better with use. I recently rode my friends fox 36 and noticed such a huge difference that I can't even say that the 35 Gold feels anything like a real MTB suspension fork. For clarity it wasn't the factory 36 but a performance 36 w low speed compression adjustment only.

[@flaviomarzocchi7444]

I have a little tip for you. I have repleace the wiper seals with the green skf, grease ( sram butter) at hell te seal and the all 4 BUSHING in the lower legs, apply muc off silicon shine on stanchions without lowers after cleaned and remove the excess with a rag. This create a smooth surface in stanchions. and i have added 15 cc of oil for each leg, not the 10cc raccomanded. Clean and regreased the air piston, grease well the air shaft and reboung shaft whithout lowers and inject 3 cc of oil in the air piston. Now sems to be another fork

[@mikemtbs]

@flaviomarzocchi7444 woah thank you that's amazing! Great job

[@jamesb6751]

Hey buddy, what is that red o ring visible on the left side of the fork?

[@jamesb6751]

You can see it around the 4 Minute mark

[@mikemtbs]

The red o ring is used to show how much travel you are using and for setting initial sag. Alternatively you could use a tape measure if you had a friend to help you while setting sag. If the o ring is all the way at the top of the stantion(fork leg) then you have bottomed out your suspension. I typically use 7/8 of my available travel on an aggressive ride

[@francislam8088]

can 27.5 be adjusted to 160mm? is it still recommended?

[@mikemtbs]

It can be changed to 160mm, check out my air shaft video on my Channel. The manufacturer of your bike can tell you if it's recommended or not. If your bike is still under warranty I would make sure you don't void the warranty.

[@leomurray7765]

I have the same forks however my rebound adjuster knob has fallen off does it just screw on without a hex wrench as I am looking for a replacement knob and not sure what to be looking for

[@mikemtbs]

You can use a metric hex wrench (Allen key) to change your rebound setting. Lots of people lose the knob.

[@leomurray7765]

@@mikemtbs there is only the 5mm bolt to the lowers that is there

[@mikemtbs]

@@leomurray7765 that socks, maybe the rebound shaft has come apart from the bolt

[@leomurray7765]

@@mikemtbs I used the rebound adjuster from my old recons, I wasn’t aware the end is the same as a hex wrench thanks for the help all fixed now!

[@mikemtbs]

@@leomurray7765 that's great!! Glad you got it fixed!

[@peterronzoni9264]

Pretty interesting. Thank you so much. I am 230lbs and looking for a stiff fork. Would you recommend this fork for heavier riders??

[@mikemtbs]

Yes, it's a good beginner/intermediate fork and is plenty stiff. Although you may want to look at a yari, it is upgradeable where as the 35 rl gold is not upgradeable. The yari base model is the same price as the 35

[@peterronzoni9264]

@@mikemtbs thanks for the tip!!

[@goncalooliveira-mtb2474]

Hello, I have the same fork and I have 150mm do you know how to make it 160? I think I need to take a spacer in the aircoil or something like that. I am correct?

[@mikemtbs]

Check out my channel, I have an air spring service video that I take the spacer out and make my fork 160mm

[@goncalooliveira-mtb2474]

@@mikemtbs thanks mate. I will see it now

[@mikemtbs]

@@goncalooliveira-mtb2474 cool good luck, that bottom clip ring is a real pain on the air side, keep at it and you'll get it!!

[@boneheadsofficial561]

Did you feel that this fork have been sticky especially first 40 mm of travel? I have this same fork and it feels really sticky in first 40 mm. Just wondering if i should do full service. Fork have been ridden just 400 km.. So quite new.

[@mikemtbs]

Yes I did feel that it was sticky, the new ultra low friction dust wiper seals and the full service has made a huge difference. I got the new skf wiper seals from worldwide cyclery.

[@boneheadsofficial561]

@@mikemtbs ok then, have to try same trick. Thanks!

[@mikemtbs]

@@boneheadsofficial561 good luck, made a difference for me.

[@erickel02]

Is it possible to change the travel to 140mm?

[@mikemtbs]

Yes, subscribe to my channel. My next video is how to change the travel. Should be out next weekend.have a great day

[@mikemtbs]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/hqKwgaKsrJmjkK8 in the meantime watch this video I made a year or so ago. It explains how to change the travel. I'm going to do a more in depth video sometime this week and put it up this following weekend.

[@mikemtbs]

I do apologize... It may be a few weeks before I load up my next video. We just purchased a computer so I can edit my videos properly. Hope to get the new video up as soon as possible. In the meantime watch the old video.

[@jakepaddyfield4767]

Hey man, on the Ultralow Friction SKF you linked, it says it's for Pike and Lyrik... are these the correct ones you used on your 35 gold? Thanks

[@mikemtbs]

Yep those are the ones. If your still unsure email or call them and they can verify. I did the chat on their site and had them verify. Although it's been about a year since I posted the video so you may want to double check with them. I've always had good luck getting responses to questions from them. Good luck!

[@supermario6524]

Tittle of the video says upgrade. What exactly did you upgrade? Might of missed it. Good video though.

[@mikemtbs]

Wiper. Seals were upgraded to flangeless skf. Made a difference in performance of fork, now have less stiction than with stock wiper seals.

[@gustawjanusiak5254]

Hi, what about the "air spring" side? Any grease needed? Oil in air chamber?

[@mikemtbs]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZnOQlWR3bbKpj6c

[@mikemtbs]

Yes grease on o rings on airshaft and oil in top and bottom of air spring leg. Check out the video I just listed for you. It's got the air spring all apart for you to see. Feel free to sub and have a great day!

[@gustawjanusiak5254]

@@mikemtbs Is there an option to replace the lock of this shock absorber with one with a shifter? I met with such a "one lock" model, the question is whether it is only plug and play? No need to pull the bottom out? Is it enough to unscrew the top and replace the lock?

[@mikemtbs]

@@gustawjanusiak5254 Yes there is a kit where you can install a lockout lever on your handlebars. The remote rockshox part number is 00.4318.002.009 and it's called the remote- oneloc left or right (your preference) the remote for the right side of handlebars is 00.4318.002.010. The fork compression damper spare housing stop is part # 11.4018.082.016 in the RS Manual. I will say that it is incredibly difficult to aquire parts for the 35 gold fork. Ive been waiting for 3 years for a rebound damper replacement. All part numbers mentioned I found on sram.com under the owners manuals for the 35 gold rl fork. Hope this was helpful.

[@mikemtbs]

@@gustawjanusiak5254 and yes, you would only have to remove the compression damper, and you could probably do that without loosing any oil and definitely would not have to open the lower section of the rebound. Should be a pretty easy install.

[@benbreshears2812]

did the damper work now that you added more oil?

[@mikemtbs]

Yes it did, not awesome but definitely better.

[@benbreshears2812]

@@mikemtbs Cool, my Pike has the same issue, I was thinking it might low oil level. Thanks

[@martinhickey2432]

Hey Mike, what weight oil do I need? Was the uppers 15w too? Thanks for the video

[@mikemtbs]

The 2 weights are 5 and 15. Go to rockshox (sram) website and download the manual for the fork. They may have updated oil type and weight since I did the video. Good luck and have fun!

[@JackieChanJoi]

Не протереть штаны от стружки... И собирать на улице где ветер, пыль и песок, да вам только пружино эластамерные с ногами 28мм обслуживать)

[@mjojrjr6231]

Can I ask what's needed to change the fork travel? I'm after a 150mm travel and planning on lowering the travel to either 130 or 140mm?

[@mikemtbs]

You need to get little black all-travel spacers from rockshox, or a bike shop. If your fork is 150 every all travel spacer you add to the airshaft will decrease your shocks travel by 10mm. 2 all travel spacers added would turn a 150 into a 130mm travel fork.

[@mjojrjr6231]

@@mikemtbs thanks Mate, I actually found your other video with another guy asking the same question. Very helpful indeed, I have the chance to buy the same fork 250£ new. Not sure if it's worth it considering all the issues you've encountered and same with other users.

[@Adam-vm8kp]

If it’s a newer fork then you would need a new air shaft in the travel you choose which are about £40 which requires removing the lowers and swapping the shaft over (no special tools needed) The travel adjust spacers are for pretty old rockshox forks.

[@nickL7389]

Would this fork be a good fit for 2020 Stance 2? I found a great deal on this fork locally and would like to ditch the Suntour Raidon 34

[@mikemtbs]

Don't buy this fork new, you will be very disappointed. You can not upgrade this fork with a new damper. I would look at the marzocchi Z2. That fork is much better and the same price.

[@mikemtbs]

But if you get the fork for like $200 that would not be a bad deal. Imo I think that raidon may feel better than the 35 gold

[@mikemtbs]

I'm more than happy to answer your questions, and I would appreciate it if you subscribed to my channel. Thank you.

[@dupadupadupa18]

Hi, is it possible to fit internals from pike or lyric to 35's?

[@mikemtbs]

Nope, the inner diameter of the stantions are too small for any upgrades, and they made the threads more fine in top of legs as well to prevent people from trying.

[@CalvoSaitama]

How easy is IT to change travel?

[@mikemtbs]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/hqKwgaKsrJmjkK8 watch my video showing how to change travel.

[@montanaristefano8335]

Ciao è possibile chiedere assistenza

[@mikemtbs]

Sure although my Italian is non existent. Can you ask in english?

[@montanaristefano8335]

Ciao il tuo video mi ha aiutato tantissimo Ma nella parte dove va aria ci sono i token????

[@mikemtbs]

@@montanaristefano8335 Certo, rimuovi l'aria dalla gamba dell'aria, quindi svita il tappo dell'aria e i gettoni si attaccano al tappo dell'aria dalla gamba dell'aria. Si avvitano semplicemente a mano.

[@montanaristefano8335]

Nella mia non ci sono. Nella tua???? La mia da 140 l'ho portata a 160

[@montanaristefano8335]

RockShox 200 Hour Service Kit For 35 Gold RL A1 2020+

[@made4tankfight510]

I defenitely did not see 170ml of oil gettin out of that fork while you were demounting it hahah i guess mine has the same problem

[@mikemtbs]

Yea, rockshox just throws these together. If your fork is a 160mm travel use 170ml of oil. If it's a 150mm travel use 160ml of oil. If u put too much oil in the fork won't go thru all its travel. Just a heads up if your gonna do it.

[@made4tankfight510]

@@mikemtbs Thanks a lot man, i'm doing it this sunday gonna let you know

[@made4tankfight510]

@@mikemtbs did the rebound work before the service?, mine doesn't work

[@mikemtbs]

@@made4tankfight510 its a bad design damper in the fork, it is barely noticeable. Can't do anything to change it other than buy a different fork. Believe me I've been down that road

[@made4tankfight510]

@@mikemtbs i've heard some people changed the rebound damper to fix it, wondering if that would actually work

[@lewisgreen5188]

1000 mi on these forks now. First maintenance. No leaks, maybe a little sag issues. I’m 220# and old 76yrs. But ride almost daily. Got any other ideas? Will do this maintenance myself.

[@mikemtbs]

What's your question?

[@lewisgreen5188]

@@mikemtbs was your upgrade the bottom seal? And did you increase the travel?

[@mikemtbs]

@@lewisgreen5188 the upgrade was the flangeless skf wiper seals. I did a separate video for changing the travel from 150 to 160. The new wiper seals made a difference over the stock ones

[@lewisgreen5188]

@@mikemtbs thanks, appreciate your input

[@mikemtbs]

@@lewisgreen5188 anytime, have a great day!

[@mdgolammaoula.6779]

How much are apply the pressure?

[@mikemtbs]

Depends on how much you weigh

[@marm7335]

I’m 90kg and recommend for my weight is 90-95 psi however I’m running 100 and it feels good…

[@HardCorps88]

So don’t buy a new one for $200?

[@mikemtbs]

I wouldn't but if you need something better than the 100 dollar suntour coil fork go for it

[@user-ko9pu7ei4h]

Обслужил вилку так что теперь бери ее и иди в сервис переделывать.