RockShox SID Select 35 C1 Chassis With Race day Damper Full 200 hour Service guide for beginners.

This Video is a full 50-hour and 200-hour service guide for the Rockshox SID Select 35 C1 Chassis. Instead of the stock RL Damper, this SID Select has the Raceday Damper. This fork is a very easy to service, and I highly recommend you keep on top of the recommended service intervals
There are multiple versions of the SID fork, and though the service is very similar between them, there will be some differences, so make sure you verify the version of the SID fork you have
As always, if there are any questions, feel free to comment, and I'll try to respond as soon as I can.
Chapters
00:00 - Intro and tools
07:49 - 50 hour service Part 1
19:45 - Air Spring service
33:49 - Damper Bleed service
01:08:51 - 50 hour service part 2

[@ghostdog6471]

Zoub, thanks for the video, man! I gave it a like even before watching It. I have the select + fork and managed to do the 50h service on the lower legs thanks to your other videos on the RockShox Zeb. Funny thing is, I didn't even knew what a torque wrench is a year ago. Unfortunately, the RockShox service kits are all sold out in Europe, so after more than a year riding I'm able to do only the 50h service. I hope to see a service video from you soon on the Fox Transfer SL post 2021 dropper post 😉

[@zoubtube]

Excellent Job! 👏💪I'm glad to hear that the 50-hour worked out for you. IMO, the 50-hour (give or take) service provides the most bang for the buck. Keeping up with it will not only let the fork/shock run smoothly, but it will also let you protect them as well as limit the need to change wipers and foam rings, which will save you money. All that is needed is a bit of grease and time when it is regularly serviced. The 200-hour service on this fork is easy, IMO. When you're ready, give it a try, take your time and if any questions pop up, just let me know. I'll do my best to help 👍 The plan is to do a video on a transfer SL next time I see one. right now I have a 2019 Transfer that I will be making a video for very soon. stay tuned🤙

[@hadrian1]

Excellent tutotrial! clean!

[@zoubtube]

Thank you very much sir. let me know if there are any questions

[@hadrian1]

You know, I recently bought a new sid SL select. C1 chassis 32 mm. I opened it to verify a theory. They leave the factory with very little oil and grease. I saw your Sid videos and they all appear dry. I saw other videos, both American and European, and it's almost the same. Apparently it is true that they leave the factory with little lubrication. and my charger does not block 100%

[@bendyce1025]

Hi brilliant video thanks for creating! Can you please help me with my SID C1 Select, the damper doesn't lock out (maybe normal for this fork?) also it has 5 clicks for compression however they dont change how the fork behaves, which damper does my fork have do you know? It just says Charger RL? Also will me doing a service as per your video sort it? Any would would be great, keep up the good work 👍

[@zoubtube]

If you have a raceday damper like the one in this video (you can tell by the compression knob; if it looks like the one in the video, then it's a raceday) then unfortunately you're out of luck. One of the seals in the compression stack has burst, and unfortunately, there is no "easy" fix for this. The race day damper is known for this issue, and if the fork is under warranty, rockshox will replace the damper for you. If it's an RL damper, Then it doesn't have a full lockout like the raceday does. BUT, there should be strong, even resistance, as sinks into the travel when in the lockout position. It shouldn't stutter, and it shouldn't be easy to compress when it is in the lockout position. There should be a VERY obvious difference in compression resistance between full open and full lockout. If there isn't, then chances are you need a bleed or maybe even a rebuild to change the seals I haven't posted a video on servicing a SID with a RL damper yet. In fact, I was hoping the fork in this video was going to be it. Then I found out the day my buddy dropped it off that rockshox replaced the RL for a raceday last year. Unlike the raceday, the RL is fully serviceable, and I want to make a video on it. It's a relatively common fork in my area. I'm sure I'll make a video on one soon. It's just a question of timing. you wouldn't by chance happen to live in SE MI would you? If you do, I'll make a video of the whole fork service.

[@bendyce1025]

Thanks for your reply, yes my fork is exactly the same as your video but has the original charger RL damper, can I buy a rebuild kit and service the fork as well as fix the damper issue ive got? I unfortunately live in the UK otherwise id happily pay to have you service my fork 😪

[@GokkunGuru]

Does the upgraded Race Day damper make this a SID Ultimate essentially?

[@zoubtube]

Yup!

[@SergejGrabun]

omg, that bleeding is painful! Fox Grip damper is definitely easier to do with the bleed hole...

[@zoubtube]

Yup! As small as the Raceday damper is, it can be surprisingly finicky to bleed. The grip is MUCH more straight forward for sure

[@xstevex22]

Hi, thank you very much for your greate video tutorials! I have exactly the same fork + damper. After bleeding the lockout worked perfectly. But a few days later and some miles it begins to not fully lockout. Is it maybe the oring problem ?

[@zoubtube]

I'm glad to hear you like the video. It could very well be the compression stack seal. Your best bet is to remove the damper (you don't need to remove the entire fork; you can just remove the damper body with the fork on the bike; just make sure to use an oil pan to catch the oil from the lower leg), bleed it again to make absolutely sure there is no air in it, and then test to see if it fully locks out. If it doesn't, then you most likely have an issue. Let me know how it goes

[@xstevex22]

@@zoubtube Thanks for your reply! I was absolutely sure to have no air inside the damper (I was veeery patient :) ). So I went to my local bike dealer, they sent in the damper and ta-da, SRAM replaced it with the new version A2 (which probably tackle this issue with the A1). Great customer experience.

[@zoubtube]

@@xstevex22 Great to hear myman! If you had tried to bleed and test it again as I mentioned and it still failed, I was going to ask if it was still under warranty, and if it was to send to back. sram is really good with their warranty, recalls, etc.

[@xstevex22]

@@zoubtube SRAM changed the damper the third time. I'm happy to have a rock solid fork on my bike, hopefully it will last for the next years without any serious problems. All the best from Germany, thanks for all your hours of great videos. Hopefully one day I will make to Moab Utah. Cheers, Stefan

[@danielstormy3660]

Hello, i have Rock shox SID 35 120mm travel(dont know if its C1?) on my Trek top fuel 8 2022, but there is Rush RL damper, can it be changed to this Race day damper or Charger 2 RL damper?

[@zoubtube]

When you get a moment, send me your serial number so I can verify the chassis and get you a part number

[@danielstormy3660]

@@zoubtube Where is that serial number on fork written plz?

[@zoubtube]

@@danielstormy3660 at the back side of the crown, it faces the top part of the frames downtube.

[@lukemckenzie5872]

Can you flick the bladder or angle it some to get more bubbles to escape?

[@zoubtube]

Put it this way, You can do just about ANYTHING you can think of to this damper if it means removing all the air out 😉. This damper is actually pretty easy to bleed, but just like every damper, taking an extra few minutes to make sure it's fully bled is a little to ask considering you most likely won't need to bleed it for the rest of a season.