Are you the original owner of the fork? Did the damper get upgraded as some point? If it now has a 3 position charger than you basically turned into a select+ 3 position, which allows you to use one of the following remotes. 00.4318.079.001 Remote - TwistLoc Ultimate Full Sprint Left 3 Position (Includes Cables, Housing, Left and Right Textured Grips) - 3 Position Remote Forks and Shocks B1 00.4318.059.001 Remote - TwistLoc Base Full Sprint Left 3 Position (Includes Cables, Housing, Left and Right Grips) - 3 Position Remote Forks and Shocks B1

@@zoubtube Yes i am the original Owner, bought the XC bike brand new and it came this way out of the box with the and with the "One Lock" handlebar damper adjuster. Its a very known brand down here in Brazil (Oggi agile pro GX 2023) and it comes with SRAM gx lunar groupset /tevel TL and SID Select SL(oem maybe).Good news for me I found a really cheap twistloc ultimate full sprint left 3 position to sell brand new down here and i am going to upgrade it. Thanks for the prompt feedback !!!!

I have the following torque wrenches Snap-on Low torque range ATECH1FR240B Mid torque range ATECH2FR100B My high range torque wrench isn't needed for bike parts The above are overkill for bikes. These were bought a very long time ago for completely different purpose that required high precision. this being said, I still would only buy snap on torque wrenches. They are all very precise, very durable, and most important, easily serviceable. they truly are a lifetime product. BUT, the are STUPID expensive now. Another solid brand for torque wrenches, at least imo, is tekton. Below is a link to a low range version with very high reviews at a good price www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL2EG?linkCode=sl1&tag=js46369-20&linkId=d5ff3718be4922eb3d1307baee811d3c&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl&th=1 Just remember to ALWAYS reset a click style torque wrench to zero after your done with it. Do not leave it sitting at any torque value when at rest as it will degrade the spring which will make the tool in accurate. Do this and it should last for a very long time Hope this helps 👍

@@zoubtube Thank you! Video is top notch and super informative.

I'm glad to hear that you found the video helpful. As for the bleed screw after the bleed, it's totally up to you. The freestroke screw offers nothing more than a minor adjustment in feel. This is a personal thing that you will need to test on your own to see what your preference is. The one thing to remember is to adjust the lever to your preferred position after adjusting the freestroke screw, as it will move the lever. The effects are minor, and it will most likely take a few rides on trails you are very familiar with to feel the difference, so feel free to play with the freestroke at will. You won't break anything in the process. But again, remember to reposition the lever after you adjust it.

Glad to hear you found the video informative. The metal softjaw with the 25mm hole I bought from a guy in canada through ebay. He makes great quality sofjaws, but they are pricey, and from what it looks like they have increased in cost since I bought them. below is the link. www.ebay.com/itm/113970834025?itmmeta=01J1WJTMX5XGBNSHD6G25BZHMF&hash=item1a8930ea69:g:QiMAAOSwsAtdz2uK Another option is the RockShox Reverb Vice Block - very handy tool but again expensive, pretty much doubled in price since I bought mine. I'd google search for the best price www.sram.com/en/rockshox/models/tl-rvbt-vb-a1 a more cost effective alternative if you have a solid vice would be the following poly softjaw on ebay. www.ebay.com/itm/276243285596?itmmeta=01J1WJJKRC0HV04J0Y7ZH9SDAF&hash=item405162065c:g:EpQAAOSwB4hlhbGM&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4MRYvDyBct6DdSoX%2F4fpzsSw5Uzrpg049kSUxYsMmEcoj9OmVl1rvixt%2FS3NCyNrPE3MJ2HJMZA%2FuLisgzADheJzRZ5vdAWjn5ZukjleF6LEOujg0lMYx9quSlKT1U7x8bO0LdDMWRzl3gMszI6VS2kN7wjmdMZJASMpcXB8TsCq5O03gngQ6Art7ygt2Qi8gV%2FIGGFPkEqOdPM1j6EEZn7LBkDwub1IHFgLNFC%2Fb7q0BcXPPvxhJaAL%2F8VmY9DrO8IUkAZFU%2BjS%2FX5p33GRd7Zs%2FcKaDpJuYadM19gMft6m%7Ctkp%3ABFBMnLzKko9k One option that looks interesting that I've never tried is the following that might work well. it's metal, low in cost, and offers a good amount of sizes www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Seatpost-Suspension-Freewheel-Maintenance/dp/B0BMB5JYQC/ref=asc_df_B0BMB5JYQC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=837909002167703903&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016979&hvtargid=pla-2281435179778&psc=1&mcid=5f6d9da13d62379e98af4f3df4633a7f&hvocijid=837909002167703903-B0BMB5JYQC-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1 Hopefully this helps.

@@zoubtube really really appreciate the info! You’re the best.

Hopefully the video helps out. If you find any issues with in it while serving your shock can you let me know so I can adjust in future videos. thanks 👍

Thanks for the comment and for subscribing. Some FOX shocks still use pellets, but the reservoir-style shocks have moved to a valve recently, which is more service-friendly. To fill a shock with a valve, all that is needed is a valve adapter for the nitrogen system. These are low-cost and can be bought at many places. Ultimately, unless you ride in really hot environments or on very long, aggressive runs with little break in between, air will do just fine. Just about every modern shock has two fill holes, one for the air can and the other for the IFP chamber. They serve different purposes. The Air can valve (the one on the eyelet) is used to adjust your shock sag. The IFP valve, which is either on the damper body on an inline shock or on the reservoir on a reservoir back style shock, is only filled once after the IFP has been set to the appropriate depth and the damper is properly bled. Hopefully this helps

Thanks for sharing this with people 👍

It sounds like your damper shaft seal has leaked and oil is making its way into the eyelet. I originally planned on adding this service to this video but decided not to as I thought it would make the video too long, and to make a separate video on servicing the eyelet, which includes the shaft. Below is a link to the Eyelet service. I basically ended this video at the point of starting the Eyelet service. You will see the shaft im talking about on page 11. Not a hard job but does involve a few extra steps. Hopefully this helps for now www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/service-manuals/rockshox/rear-suspension/2023-eyelet-and-damper-shaft-replacement-service-manual-english.pdf?__woopraid=ee7syj4kq6dR

@@zoubtube thanks I appreciate it! I’ll take a look!

Thanks for the kind words and for taking the time to watch the video. more videos to come

@@zoubtube I hope you see this. Is there a difference between this Grip damper and Grip damper on Fox 36 Performance from 2023 Performance Series 36 FLOAT 29 150 Grip? I think I've got air mixed with oil in damper assembly and need to do oil bleed in it. Want to order all required parts and do it myself. Struggling to find the vice shaft grips atm. Will be using your video to follow step by step

AWESOME JOb 👏👏🦾 and thank you so much for leaving the comment. It always makes my day when I read that people successfully completed some of these jobs 😊 Now go out there and reap your rewards! 👍

Funny you should mention this. I believe the next video scheduled to release next week is a compression stack re-tune guide for a rockshox deluxe.

YUP! The plan is to make videos on as many model and years fork, shock etc as I can over time. The sid luxe is relatively popular around here, but chances are I won't be working on one until seasons end, unless someone has an issue with there's before that

@@zoubtube Great to hear thanks!

Much appreciated Myman. I ended up re-tuning this shock, which should be the next video scheduled to release. It had a digressive Tune, which didn't work out for the frame I put it on, so I changed it to a linear tune. I planned on making one video out of the whole job but figured it would be too long, so I made two videos, one to service the shock, which should be helpful for more people, and the other to tune it, which I have to assume will help a very small group of people. More videos to come 👍

​@zoubtube any clue about how to tell if a frame geometry is progressive or linear? I found some info about it online but not sure I can decipher it haha. I have a 2022 mondraker raze r and no clue if it'd be better suited to a progressive vs linear rear shock setup.

Thank you for taking the time to watch them and for leaving a comment. Hopefully one of them will come in handy for you in the future 👍

@@zoubtube I repair multiple bikes. And my friends bikes. Your videos are always useful. Thanks again.

Thank you for taking the time to watch it and for leaving the kind comment. If you have any questions let me know

@@zoubtube of course. Thank you for taking the time to make the video. All the best to you.

Done! let me know if anything else is needed

@@zoubtube Awesome. Thanks.

I have checking the rebuilt kits, RS5732 and RS9215, I didnt found it.... the fox said that is 803-01-283 Seal Kit: FLOAT DPX2 Rebuild, but its hard to find it

I ALWAYS hated those pellets. I've never gone above two uses with one pellet. I replace them after a second use. But have to assume you can get more if you apply a good amount of pressure to the needle, which will be easier when using a nitrogen setup with the Fox needle since it's a stronger setup than using a needle with a hand pump. You can only apply so much pressure to the hand pump needle, or else you risk breaking it. You can buy the pellets online individually or in a pack.

When you say "twisting the seat back and forth" do you mean rotating left to right, or do you mean pushing front to back. If rotating left to right, then there's a good change that the pins are starting to wear. If back and forth, then I'm pretty sure the sure you're bushing are either wearing, worn, or with this post, the lower bushing might have delaminated, which is something I've been trying to warn people on. Though I haven't worked on hundreds of these post, I've worked on enough to notice the coating on the lower bushing delaminates very inconsistently, sometimes it last a long time, other times it doesn't make it to 100 hours.

@zoubtube it might be both haha. I'm going to tear this thing apart soon and hopefully it'll be salvageable. Just getting the proper tools together so that I'm fully prepared. Thanks for the video and for the reply

@zoubtube pretty annoying too that you can't figure out which size pins go with the particular reverb unless you tear it down. Called sram with the serial number thinking they could tell me the pin size so I could order them in advance, but nope

@@thereignofthezero225 I TOTALLY agree! It's a PITA and I wish SRAM could be more helpful with this. At least it doesn't change over time, so once you open it, you'll know for good!

@@thereignofthezero225 instead of wrenches, I would put the money into either an adjustable crows foot, or individual crows feet, since they can be used for both removing and installing to torque specs

Thank you for taking the time to watch it. Hopefully it comes in handy one day 👍

"so you regulate the distance the piston travels before it starts generating pressure" - Ultimately increasing pressure in the system, which is what I mention, but more in a general sense as I was talking about the system as a whole. I also tried my best to prove that contact point adjustment has "NO" effect on the pads at rest. Yes, I agree that the contact point adjustment changes the point where pressure builds up, but in the end, it increases (or decreases) pressure in the system as a whole when braking without affecting the pads when at rest.

I'm glad you brought this up. I'm replacing my BB30 "bearings" and didn't know if I should replace the cups at the same time. (if i can remove the bearing w/o the cup coming out. i bought a removal/press kit on Amz. hope it works) This video did help in a lot of ways but the info I really wanted to know was what you just wrote. Thanks. To both of you.

@@dubbya57 I live by the saying “less is more”. If my BB cup squeak or move only then I replace it. Annually, I remove the bearings seals only (not the bearings), flush the bearings and re-grease. If annually (or at any time) the bearings spin rough and degreasing doesn’t clear it up then I replace the bearings. The key here is to maintain the bearings as they sit in the cup and only replace when they are stuck or your BB squeaks.

Agreed! When it comes to terminology, sometimes I tend to generalize too much, especially in my earlier videos. I've been trying to improve on this. Until these videos, I rarely had to talk and do the jobs. People stuff off, and I would do the job, most of the time in my own little world. Reminders like this are needed as they help me remember to focus on these details, so I really appreciated the constructive feedback 👍

Outstanding Job Myman! 🦾👏👏 Yup Very minor difference between the two. I will eventually be making a video on the VVC version, but for now it sounds like you are good to go! Now go out there and pound that beast! 👍

Dude, You can't mix up Mr Makey with Mr garrison! There might even be some kind of law on this . At a minimum I'm sure you upset Mr Hat! 😁

Nope! Way to thick. Stick with sram butter (or equivalent) or dynamic grease. personally, if the shock is under warranty, I would just use sram products for grease and oil. SRAM is really good with their warranties. you don't want to give them a reason not to honor it in case something goes wrong.

@@zoubtube thanks!!

First I'd like thank you for your support. it super appreciated. 🙂 And thanks again for such a great compliment. slowly but surely things are moving forward. I still need to figure out a better solution for closeups. Hopefully I solve this soon so I can get more detail for everyone on small parts. We'll get there. Any suggestions to help improve the experience would also be appreciated. I'm always looking for input. thanks again 👍

YUP! I'd say 99% of the time, that's how I pour it. For some reason, when I make these videos, I find that sometimes I do things that literally have me scratching my head during post. Hell, sometimes I can't help but think that I had some kind of stroke! I don't script any of this stuff, as it takes too much time. But because of this, there's so much going through my mind when making these videos that every once in a while it shorts out (though if you ask my GF I'm sure she'd say it happens more often than that! 😁 ) Thanks for watching the video and for leaving a helpful comment that will help others. It's much appreciated. 👍