RockShox Super Deluxe Air (2017-2022) Rear Shock Service

[@phorest]

Thanks for making this video. From my [newby suspension servicer], I'd love it if you described each [and every] step, and showed all the pieces you remove in close-up [and in general have the camera closer]. You can assume we know _nothing_ about this shock or its service. It might help to have the camera on your left so your hand doesn't block our view as much as you're working on it.

[@natej7929]

After watching this and doing all my Fox rear shox’s this winter (X2, DHX2, FloatX) I’m almost embarrassed to have not done my super deluxe. What a simple process…..

[@raaaayli]

Could you do a full service video for the 2022 float X? I think you will be the first one to have 2022 float X service video if you do. Your videos are amazing and very helpful!

[@simonszoke1479]

Thanks, and yes. I am planning to upload a number of videos once I can no longer enjoy the summer weather. Specifically I plan on a number of RockShox videos, 2022 Float X, and 2016-2020 Float X2 in the next ~3 months.

[@dieseldan1]

How far into this do I need to go to reshim the stacks on a brand new shock?

[@simonszoke1479]

All the way. Piston is the last part that comes off.

[@egydanis]

Hi, thanks for the vid. You may have mentioned and I missed it but unsure of the thread on the syringe. I have one for charger damper service will that fit the ifp bit?

[@simonszoke1479]

Yes, both are M5 threads.

[@zebsk]

I followed this video so I could swap the select + reservoir from a 2021 shock onto a select 2023 shock. I used the manual method to bleed and have not yet pressurised the ifp as waiting on fill adapter. When cycling the shock, it will compress easily but very difficult to extend like it has a tonne of rebound (it’s in fully open). Will it extend easily once I pressurise IFP, have I messed something up or maybe reservoirs aren’t compatible?

[@simonszoke1479]

You shouldn't really be cycling it without IFP pressure because it will cavitate the oil. It will likely be fine once pressurized. FYI the bleeding method in the manual is less reliable then this because the piston can trap air bubbles that you only purge from one side of the piston with the manual's bleed method. The extra step I included to cycle the shock before purging allows for all air to break free from crevasses in the piston before purging.

[@zebsk]

@@simonszoke1479 ok thanks a lot for he reply, will wait for fill adaptor to arrive and give this a go!

[@zebsk]

One more question - what are you actually checking when you press down on the lockout lever with the pick? My lockout lever just spins and I tried pushing down onto the centre of the nut at bottom IFP but not sure what I’m looking to do???

[@simonszoke1479]

@@zebsk if the lever spins it means the lockout needle is compressed, i.e. the shock is locked out. Some model year based valves have an exposed lockout needle, which you can open up by pushing on it with a screwdriver. Having the lockout needle in the open position helps with filling the shock with oil. During normal operation you rely on the IFP pressure to push the lockout lever open, and the adjuster cam keeps it closed (locked out).

[@timroberts6346]

Hey man question for ya, I’m looking to change the stroke spacer on my super deluxe, it’s pretty new (less than 50 hrs), if that’s all I’m doing can I just stop around where you are at 6:05 and then reassemble? Or do you need to do the full 200 hr service once the damper is removed? Thanks!

[@simonszoke1479]

Yes, no need to replace the seals with such low usage.

[@timroberts6346]

@@simonszoke1479 Cool thanks for the reply man 🤙🏻 Will I need to bleed the IFP after removal of the damper shaft, or is that only if the reservoir is opened?

[@simonszoke1479]

@@timroberts6346 you will need to do the whole bleeding procedure. You will need to open up the reservoir to set the proper IFP depth.

[@timroberts6346]

@@simonszoke1479 Got it, I figured but hoped not haha. Appreciate you dude, thanks for the help!