Paint Shaving vs Paint Stripper along with Sanders and Sanding Discs Comparison

[@ralphjiavarone]

Great job! Around a decade ago i did a similar project using the paint shaver pro on cedar plank, painted it with a coat of primer and two coats of Benjamin Moore paint. Decade later it looks exactly the same.

[@RomanWeisman]

Thanks Ralph for the kind words. Nothing like making your home to your own liking - love it and it will love you back.

[@doomslayerforever2858]

Should have used stain

[@bmd37289]

I have a 73 year old house with cedar lap siding. The siding had numerous layers of peeling and bubbling paint, and some white, chalky substance on the surface of the siding (under the paint). I tried a few different options and finally bought the Paint Shaver. I started (thankfully) on a side of my house that people don't see often. My learning curve included leaving numerous crescent shaped gouges in my siding. I gave up and went back to scraping the obviously failing paint, used wood filler in the low spots, followed by sanding, primer, and paint. Unfortunately, painting over what seemed like stable paint frequently led to bubbling of the old paint. I eventually decided that the only long-term fix was to remove all paint, down to bare wood, prime, and paint. This meant going back to the Paint Shaver, as I had found no other viable option. After some more "practice" I got to be really good at using the Paint Shaver. It is very fast, and leaves you with a clean surface, devoid of old paint and primer that will continue to fail over time. On my house anyway. I still had to scrape the corners where the Paint Shaver does not reach, and sand the bare siding prior to priming, but it's actually quicker than anything else I tried, and the siding I painted this way has not failed after several years, so I'm confident it won't. I would never use a different method for paint that is bubbling and/or pealing. You have to accept that properly painting your house is a lot of work. Getting it right the first time, even though it takes a lot more time and effort, is paramount. I only want to do this once, and I'm confident with this methodology. If I paint again in the future, I will be able to paint over my new paint, without fear of it failing.

[@RomanWeisman]

Thanks for the comment, had the same issues. I ended up using stain as finish, which penetrates the wood rather than paint which forms a layer on top of the wood.

[@root123]

Fantastic video can I ask a more specific question. We have a house siding that is uneven and the tiles or siding are warped. What would b the best option in your opinion since you have experience all of those tools. Thanks I would appreciate your response since we are planning to paint our house ourselves.

[@bmd37289]

@@root123 Is your siding smooth or does it have texture of some kind? The Paint Shaver is made for smooth boards. It will remove texture if it exists. Also, the paint shaver has a flat surface that "rides" on your siding, so if your siding is warped badly the paint shaver blades will not be in plane with the board when removing paint. I had a few siding boards that were warped and I was able to remove paint well with the paint shaver, but there is a higher likelihood of damaging the siding boards if they are not flat. The blade depth is adjustable. My biggest mistake was setting the blades to cut too deep. I would highly recommend starting out with the blades barely removing paint and slowly adjusting the depth until you find a good setting. You can always go over an area more than once. That's a lot easier than repairing damage from cuts that are too deep. I eventually became fairly proficient at using the Paint Shave but I'm not at all an expert. If you have specific questions I'd highly recommend contacting the Paint Shaver customer support. I contacted them and they were very helpful. They are far more knowledgeable than I am.

[@Gsxrtrix]

@@RomanWeismanWhat stain did you use? My cedar shake was originally painted with oil based solid and that’s been great for 33 years. Getting flaking now and apparently oil based is not available?

[@RomanWeisman]

@@Gsxrtrix Hi - Behr, semi-transparent stain, coffee (water based). With stain, you shouldn't have any flakes. It's not as rich in color and texture as natural oil, but requires less frequent repaint. The reason for not having the product is due to regulations in your residence. For convenience, you can find the painting process in more detail in subsequent video of this series, and the stain used can be found in minute 2:26. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z3a2XmZ8dqmGqdk&ab_channel=RomanWeisman.

[@gnohn9366]

Finally gave up on trying to keep paint on my old cedar siding and Installed fiber cement. the wood siding did last 50 years though.

[@RomanWeisman]

Yep, and I have wood peckers and carpenter bees drilling holes in it, but I love its looks, and moved to stain finish which lasts 6-8 years ( on paper ).

[@handydandyhomes]

All your joints will crack after a few years when your siding shrinks more than the caulking can stretch.

[@cganibal]

Are you using the paint shaver also as the sander and just swapping out different tool heads? Or is it two separate tools?

[@RomanWeisman]

Separate tools.

[@johnwelsh9997]

We have been selling the Paintshaver in Australia for over 12 years. Compliant to Australian Electrical requirements. We have sold hundreds of them and all our customers come back saying the best tool for paint removal. I would use it with a vacuum though as it allows the blades to run more freely and for safety as well

[@coolguys74]

link?

[@shykat2218]

If it shaves the wood how much wood is it shaving? My thought would be with an older home and relatives before me sanding I really cannot afford to take much wood off.

[@RomanWeisman]

As much as you need, the depth of the shave is adjustable.

[@nursecuenca]

Whats are other alternative sanders to remove exterior house paint?

[@RomanWeisman]

With sanders it will take a very long time to remove the paint, I prefer the paint shaver as demonstrated in this video. As far as I know, other options are to use something like a heat gun and then remove the paint ( see comments below on why it's extremely not recommended and dangerous ), or replace the siding with a new one :)

[@ikust007]

Isn’t worth it to use the hitachi with higher grit for finishing, after the main scraping?

[@RomanWeisman]

I tired 40, 80, 120 - same final result ( after stain ) and very time consuming.

[@dabmanian_devil]

try the Diablo sandnet mesh sheets sometime! super easy to clean off n reuse! but not on an angle grinder, too fast it just rips thru em

[@RomanWeisman]

Thanks, interesting, never tried those.

[@redstingraycorvette]

What does this machine cost? And what happens when you hit a nail?

[@RomanWeisman]

All the links are under the description. Ideally, it shouldn't hit the nail - I had to tap loose nails before shaving the area, but when I still hit a nail with the tool : closer to the edges it bends or extracts completely the nail, and the nail on its way out damaging the wood, sometimes splitting it. Also, if the nail is loosen too much, the tool won't be able to move to that direction as the nail blocks its way - in this case I had to tap the nail in, or lift the tool and go over the nail, and eventually tapping it in and go over that area. In any case, you will hear a loud metallic sound accompanied with sparks. I believe that after many occasions it will ruin the triangle blades ( if that happens, you can always replace them and/or order more from the link under the description ). But in any case, it didn't stop me from finishing the wall - in other words, the tool will continue operating.

[@ikust007]

Really impressed by the Hitachi

[@ikust007]

Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.

[@RomanWeisman]

Thanks for watching :)

[@davondd]

That is absolutely beautiful wood! I hope you keep it natural

[@RomanWeisman]

Yep, using semi transparent stain instead of solid paint.

[@davondd]

@@RomanWeisman way to go! I tell you I bought a house with a painted deck and it took me 14 days of scraping and sanding plus I had to replace a few rotted boards. The deck was only 10 yrs old but she painted over it every season until the deck could no longer drain. I kid you not, the paint was1/16 thick in some spots. Sorry for venting bro 😆

[@RomanWeisman]

@@davondd Wow, I feel your pain, that sounds exhausting, and I do hope that you managed to peal of everything. For my own deck I used Penofin oil ( sable tone ) as a finish product, and overall I like the result, apart the blotches and dark stains appearing on cedar (soft wood). Just make sure to wipe off the excess immediately after applying it, if you're going to use it to avoid sticky deck ;) If interested, you can find the video on my channel - "Sticky Deck Reason, Sanding and Penofin Oil Solution". Thanks for watching, leaving a comment and sharing your experience :)

[@davondd]

@@RomanWeisman will check it out thank you

[@JaredAllaway]

Damn I wish I would've had this recently. I used an angle grinder and like 20 polycarbonate discs.

[@RomanWeisman]

Thanks for watching, sounds like a lot of work :))

[@ikust007]

7:45 indeed much tool inventory needed. Hopefully you have good clients in your country.

[@Igor-q3f]

How much for your time and labor?

[@RomanWeisman]

8:22 is the cost and time breakdown.

[@nilsfrahm1323]

One more tool to try, the oscillating tool. It has also triangle shaped attachment for sanding paper, would work great for corners. You can also attach a flat scraping blade, or even wood or metal cutting blade, and use it parallel to the wood to just scratch the paint in your corners, where u had problems. You can even cut wood with it, of required, or nails. Oscillating multitool has speed adjustment, so you can adapt it for the job requirement, such as slow speed with high grit size, for fast paint removal, or high speed with small grit size, for smooth surface. Believe the cheap Dewalt sander didn't have speed setting, ran always on high speed, this is why it smooths the surfaces. Usually the medium priced sanders or multitools have speed control (extra components needed, thus pricier), so look for that option whem buying. With speed control, it's also quieter, less heat, less wear on the motor, as rarely needed on highest setting.

[@RomanWeisman]

Thanks for the tips and comments. The Dewalt has speed setting, but then everything is slower. For the corners I used another sander ( presented in this video), but never used a sanding attachment on an oscillating tool. It cuts metal but wears the blade almost immediately ( that’s why I cut the nails on a siding with reciprocating saw instead). I don’t see myself using the oscillating tool on corners as it will require to be very precise on those edges, an since the blade vibrates from side to side, it will probably hit the upper wooden board at the very corner - I personally wouldn’t use it, but if it works for you, that’s great :) Thanks for watching and leaving a comment, appreciate it.

[@vsvnrg3263]

@@RomanWeisman , the oscillating tools are amazing. its also called a multitool for good reason. you dont realise you need it till youve got it. i would never buy one. except it came free with another purchase. and i'm glad i did.

[@doomslayerforever2858]

Festool needs to make a version

[@aliozen3342]

They do, it’s classed as a concrete grinder but you can buy a separate painters grinding wheel. RG130 renofix.

[@aliozen3342]

So if you also do a lot of concrete floors too it’s a great buy as it comes with a concrete grinding wheel when you buy it.

[@sirmize1230]

Damn dude you did the entire house like this 🙆🏻‍♂️

[@RomanWeisman]

Yep, one wall at a time.

[@ikust007]

3:15 infrared lamp wouldn’t have been better ? Not a critic , simple question .

[@RomanWeisman]

It was answered in one of the comments: Briefly: no since it’s slow and fire hazardous.

[@vsvnrg3263]

i'm here because i dont want another dose of heavy metal poisoning. heating paint releases toxic chemicals including lead. most old paint contains lead. some old paint contains other heavy metals.

[@danielmyers5567]

What is a striper and why are you using this on a house?

[@RomanWeisman]

Hey Daniel - paint stripper supposedly removes paint. You use it when you want to remove paint, since it’s old, pealing or simply cause you don’t like the color. As you can see in my video it doesn’t work, messy and did I mention doesn’t work? Thanks for watching.

[@JaredAllaway]

Str eye per versus st rip per

[@ikust007]

6:35 never saw such a tool!

[@teambennett3060]

Wow that's alot of hours into that job. I hope you got paid for every one of them.👍🏻other goingbto look amazing when your finished.

[@RomanWeisman]

Thanks for watching. LOL, that's my own house I'm working on, so not being paid for - most of the videos on my channel are me struggling with the negligence of the previous owners, check out those if you haven't: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ooGbcpaCrsyHrbc kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXy8dHuep8aFrdU

[@teambennett3060]

@@RomanWeisman OH I see... well your doing an amazing job.👍🏻

[@RomanWeisman]

@@teambennett3060 Thanks a lot for the kind words, means a lot to me.

[@teambennett3060]

@@RomanWeisman You're welcome.

[@MrNanah38]

Over kill

[@onehandclapping3094]

The house just shrunk by a 1/2”

[@RomanWeisman]

Sorry, didn't understand your comment, if you refer to the physical size of the house then I still don't understand how it's possible.

[@justotorres8970]

You didn't do all that work just to paint over it again?

[@RomanWeisman]

Thanks for watching. This video is about the paint removal. I have another video on my channel where I stain it ( used only one coat cause winter came, this year will apply another ). Unfortunately cedar must have a finish, otherwise it will get gray. Oil finish is also possible but requires more frequent maintenance compared to stain, and some of those “natural” oils add an ugly yellow tone which ruins the entire natural purpose - so be careful with those if you plan on using it. As I mentioned in previous comments, in other sides of the house the paint was pealing so I had to find an alternative and decided to go with semi transparent coffee finish for the siding and solid coffee color for the trims and sides, some boards had to be replaced as well.

[@ThePa1nterhowto]

I can see no need to remove that paint, there is nothing wrong with it.

[@RomanWeisman]

Thanks for watching @ThePa1nter. In other parts of the house ( not visible on this video ), the paint was pealing, so I replaced it with semi transparent stain - I had to continue the same pattern on the other sides of the house. Moreover, paint covers the natural beauty of cedar grain, and as I personally see it, should never be used on Cedar, or any wood for that matter. You can see the removed white paint compared to the semi transparent coffee here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z3a2XmZ8dqmGqdk

[@ThePa1nterhowto]

@@RomanWeisman I understand now why you stripped the paint off and applied a stain in those protected areas, did you also strip the paint off the higher areas and loft windows bays? These areas aren't protected from the elements like the patio.

[@RomanWeisman]

@@ThePa1nterhowto If you refer to the window trim: I removed it, since: it's easier to paint strip / sand without them, I knew that there wasn't any flashing tape behind it ( from previous window on other side of the house ), and it was easier to restore them that way. Once restored and flashed, I reinstalled them and added caulking around them. You can see it in the video from the previous comment and in this one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n4Ozc5ymgKZkepY If you refer to the small windows on the roof, above the area visible in the current window - I completely removed the siding ( it was old and hail damaged ), restored the windows, flashing tape ... and all that I mentioned above ( will post a video about it later ). If you refer to the windows going up, vertically, next to the brick wall - I removed the wood since it was rotten, added metal flashing behind it, flashed, installed new cedar boards, caulked and then solid painted ( unfortunately ). Bottom line - removed old, flashed around the windows, installed new or restored, caulked, painted.

[@onehandclapping3094]

The paint job will be worth more than the house itself

[@RomanWeisman]

Here as well, I don't understand your comment. You mean that the final finish will add value to the house, or that the paint job is too long and expensive compared to the house's market value ?

[@chrisbattaglia1436]

Don't worry, the finished product will look great and that gets your name out there

[@billprezioso3677]

Not sure why you’re going through this process the siding looks in good shape

[@RomanWeisman]

Cause I want stain and not paint on cedar wood.

[@billprezioso3677]

@@RomanWeisman What you took off was not paint it was solid color stain but if you are going to apply a semi transparent stain to the house then I understand why you did what you did, all in all that’s a great tool for removing paint.

[@buddtwin2]

One thing is stop putting all your weight into using the desalt. The more you push on it the harder it is to control and more aggressive. Let the tool do it’s job

[@RomanWeisman]

Disagree, the Dewalt is aggressive by design, since it doesn't have the anti-kickback protection as the Paintshaver Pro, which slows itself down upon contact.

[@jessedover6175]

Strīper or stripper ? 🤔

[@RomanWeisman]

Paint stripper ;)

[@camgreer]

I think I'd try a cyclone collector on a bucket to catch most of the shavings.

[@RomanWeisman]

The tool has a dedicated dust collection connection which can be connected directly to a shop-vac, but I decided not to use it. After some time, any extra weight adds fatigue, but whatever works for you. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.

[@Rafael-Bravo]

Great video thanks! (You would've saved a lot of time by just residing it instead)

[@RomanWeisman]

@@Rafael-Bravo yep, had to replace many boards after this shave as they were cracked or dry or both. To last, wood probably needs oil and not paint or stain, but then, when it comes to maintenance, oil doesn’t last as long as the others, and overall it’s a nightmare, since you have termites, woodpeckers, carpenter bees and the complex maintenance involved, and furthermore, it’s a very expensive choice for siding.

[@Rafael-Bravo]

@@RomanWeisman you're right.. usually when people ask me to put wood siding, they either have money or it's just an accent area

[@gustavoramirez-rangel5773]

The speedheater is better, no damage to the wood.

[@RomanWeisman]

The paintshaver is superiorly faster and can handle stain, while the speedheater will remove only paint. Regarding your comment for damaging the wood - The shaving and sanding of the siding is like sanding a deck, which prolongs the life of the deck by 3X times. In other words, there is no damage to the wood while shaving or sanding it; On the other hand, exposing the wood to such heat with the speedheat might crack it. At the end of the day, it's personal preference, but I see more pluses to the paintshaver compared to other products.

[@dicko195]

Cobra Speedheater lasts for about 1/4 of a two story Colonial house. Replacement elements are expensive and don't work. Heat guns and infrared heaters easily set dust&debris that are hiding behind soffits and crown mouldings on fire causing huge property losses. Sometimes paint doesn't heat up before fire starts behind wood.

[@johnp82]

@@RomanWeisman I think the damage he was talking about was the way you can gouge the wood with the paint shaver.

[@RomanWeisman]

@@johnp82 @gustavo ramirez-rangel meant damage = shaving / sanding. See what @dicko195 wrote about the fire damage - I'm personally against the speedheater since it's slow, can burn your house down and not as efficient as the shaver. Its downsides outweighs by far the benefits of the shaver.

[@johnp82]

@@RomanWeisman shaving/sanding equals damage if you make a mistake. If you shave off all the paint perfectly with no gouges or nicks in the wood and sand it smooth with an orbital sander, that's not damage.

[@michaelkaiser4117]

Long paint job

[@justotorres8970]

Yeah no shit, The only reason to do something like that would be to stain it or clear coat cause you like the natural wood look but other then that just normal prep and paint over.

[@RomanWeisman]

Hey Michael, I removed the paint so I can stain the wood and enjoy the natural beauty cedar has to offer. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z3a2XmZ8dqmGqdk

[@stamfordmeetup]

Interesting, I didn't know that Americans still use wood to build houses. It's almost medieval, they should use bricks and mortar to save pisiing about with maintenence of the woodwork.