Rope skills for scrambling 5: equalising belays and belay devices

Find out how to use natural terrain features to protect the leader and second efficiently, and set up a belay using wires equalised with a sling. We also demonstrate effective use of a belay device to protect the second on more technical ground.
Get the skills you need for scrambling with this series produced exclusively for BMC TV in association with AMI (the Association of Mountaineering Instructors) and DMM.
WATCH: • Skills: Scrambling
www.mountain-tr...
dmmclimbing.com/
#mountaineering #hiking #trekking #scrambling
We're the BMC. Climb walls, rocks, hills, ice or mountains? Join us. www.thebmc.co....

[@frankwitte1022]

I love these videos, especially that they're dealing with rope-, protection- and belay-techniques on 'nice' slopes. And the 'simplicity' is great because in my experience ... something simple that works is far safer that something complex that looks cool on KZbin.

[@sil8127]

This is a great video but that nut on the left looks so rubbish 😄

[@XbunkerXballerX7127]

"Ah another obstacle. What should we use here? ANOTHER SLING!"

[@1jeeebeee]

I doubt if he will hold a free fall of the Second because his use of the Reverso for belaying a second is not correct. very Doubtful

[@bunnyhay297]

3:47 think the same. I doubt if the Reverso could be set up this way. The belayer can't catch a fall with this setting. He should either do a guide mode, or redirect the live rope from the anchor if he attaches the belay device on his belay loop.

[@tictachikes6156]

3:12 the angle of the sling is less than 60°. Important and I don’t think this was pointed out.

[@shoqed]

1:00 close up onRob holding the dead rope with two fingers an inch from the device, probably wouldn't be able to arrest a fall

[@sprecklesville]

Which route was that? Looks great fun

[@hrishikeshac]

Nice! Love the simplicity of the techniques shown. Could you please also make a video on descending the scramble? (Downclimbing and rappelling)

[@Ryan-yf5ds]

Glenmore lodge have some good instructional videos, I believe that is covered in one

[@MrResqueman]

Great video's Very educational. stay safe out there.

[@montanaranger7376]

taking a whipper, climbing, while letting your rope rub on rocks is a no go, but here it's ok? weird.

[@zoondesign]

Great vid thanks! I'd really apreciate if you could cover the topic of short belays while guiding a client on via ferratas (rope management, fact that both guide and the client are also using via ferrata set - Y, gear needed, movement...). Thanks! PS: in this video here you are probably using a dynema sling, which is not safe if using knots.

[@mattbaker1683]

It is safe, even with a 50% reduction you're still looking at 11kN which is way more than you could possibly generate even if it got vertical. As we only have one or two Via Ferratas in the UK I think that's unlikely, but just apply the same principles if you ever needed to do it. The majority of via Ferrata safety wires are run through 'pigtails' which are not a closed loop for this exact reason. Build an anchor onto something solid and belay off that, not your belay loop (if second falls and pulls you off your stance, both yours and second's weight go onto your vF set that deploys at 1.3kN)

[@LaKi-jh5bh]

5:50... is that a dyneema sling? If yes , shold NOT be!!!!

[@tictachikes6156]

5:23 He’s standing with his belay loop above the anchor, but is no longer belaying so I maybe the logic is he’s happy enough with the ledge he’s standing on.