Victron BatteryProtect - Protect and Control Your Van or RV Batteries - 3 Different Uses Explained!

[@rosslukeman]

Get the Ultimate Van Power Cheat Sheet: www.rosslukeman.com/vanpower

[@jh665]

Hi Ross, this is what I was locking for. This is one of the best videos concerning explaining a device including its functions and programming. especially for a non native English speaker. 👍👍

[@rosslukeman]

Hey JH, awesome to hear that was helpful!

[@jamessmetana6405]

I sadly have never received the CALB 3.2v 200ah cells from AliExpress. ordered Nov 17, 2021. I am seriously considering going with SOK. After watching the 2nd part of the Video...you answered my first query. Thank you.

[@rosslukeman]

Hi James, sorry to hear about that on the CALB cells. Maybe they are on a ship off Long Beach. I'm not sure if the supply chain issues have worked themselves out yet. The SOK looks like a promising battery, I haven't used them yet but the specs look good.

[@nachoez1250]

great video thanks! I wonder, if I should install the battery protect in front of the Orion too? In your example there is no bp installed.

[@rosslukeman]

Thanks for tuning in! No, for the Orions you would use their "H" terminal with the BMS, or a SolidSwitch 104. You just need to shut it down with the BMS, the BatteryProtect would be more than you need in this case. The above options would shut it down via its High/Low terminals (the Orion's green plug).

[@nachoez1250]

thanks!

[@stevemcgowan3017]

Hi Ross.been using dc charger on my Vw t4 campervan a few years now.but always the starter battery seems to drain at night or when not running engine,used Renogy and other local, brand .done parasitic drain tests.too.just fitted victron dc charger now but still have drain so I just fitted extra cable from my solar leisure battery hookup back to starter battery with an isolator switch so can boost starter battery back up when parked up. Simple

[@rosslukeman]

Sounds good Steve, I know solar can be great to top up your starter battery and offset any parasitic drains. I wonder if something else may be draining that engine battery, or perhaps it's getting worn out? I had a DC to DC charger that seemed to be a parasitic load on a ProMaster battery, but when they replaced that old battery it seemed to stop the problem. It think it had been on the car lot for a while before they bought the van. Anyhow, thanks for the comment, glad you found a solution!

[@stevemcgowan3017]

@@rosslukeman actually battery is new recently also replaced alternator as found out the regulator if faulty can drain battery

[@humanitanner]

incredible presentation and explanation.. 10 stars! so well articulated.. Thank you so much -- such great info here.. new to off grid and this is like gold!

[@rosslukeman]

Thanks Greg, awesome to hear you got a lot out of the video! I appreciate you tuning in. More to come...

[@jamesbrown2163]

I totally agree. Thanks Ross.

[@rosslukeman]

@@jamesbrown2163 thanks James!

[@PierreMichael2020]

Hi Ross, this is an awesome video, i've been looking for explanation of the battery protect and no need to search anymore... you are the best. Thanks very much.

[@rosslukeman]

Hey Pierre, thanks for the kind words and for tuning in. Glad that was helpful!

[@SVImpavidus]

JB weld is great stuff. We use a similar product from the UK called Super Steel. Amazing binding power and workable with small tools too. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid

[@jorditerhorst3276]

Thank you for this great tutorial! In my case I will only bring the red positive wire from the leisure battery to the 12V fuse box via this route: leisure battery - fuse - Battery Protect 65 - red positive side of fuse box. Do I understand correctly that I don't need a battery switch (the red big knob) anymore between the fuse and Battery Protect 65 if I install a switch between the L/H port and ground as you did at 18:30? Or do you recommend always using a battery switch right after the fuse, no matter the situation? I don't distribute my red positive wire into different red positive wires like you have after the battery switch. Thank you!

[@AtypicalWorkshop]

Hi Ross - great video! I have a BatteryProtect 100 (not the smart one). For some reason it doesn't say which pin is H and L on the side of the unit. I assume it's the first pin but I can't find anything to verify this. Any idea? Cheers

[@westwonic]

H & L markings are clearly shown in the video at 12.2

[@Laurel-Crowned]

Very informative! What happens when your large inverter draws so much power when first hooking up the battery connections while using these protects to turn it on

[@sandsmarine2791]

Fair play. Best easy to understand explanation video on this product I have watched. Like that you showed the wiring installation 👏👏👍

[@rosslukeman]

Hey there, thanks for tuning in and for the kind words! Awesome to hear the wiring demonstration was helpful!

[@mokacat1595]

Hey Ross, Can this device be used as a remote battery disconnect for my regular AGM starter battery in my car? I'm looking for a function that allows me to switch it on/off using Bluetooth or a physical switch. This is particularly useful when I put my car in storage or leave it parked for more than 3 weeks without a trickle charger. According to the datasheet, this device allows for up to 600A peak current for 30 seconds, which is more than enough to start my car. However, I'm unsure whether this device would still enable me to drive my car and charge the battery with the alternator as I normally do. I've seen other devices on the market that achieve similar functions, essentially a relay with a cheap remote. However, I'm hesitant about trusting those devices, especially when I'm on the highway. Thanks.

[@rosslukeman]

Hey there, great question. Cool idea but I don't think this device is the one, because it supposedly only works in one direction. It has "in" and "out" labels. So when the battery started the car, it would go in one direction, but when the alternator recharged the battery, it would go in the opposite direction, and supposedly blow the diodes in this device. You might try Blue Sea 7620 or something like that. A basic bi-directional remote-controllable relay, but quality. Hope that helps, thanks for tuning in!

[@mokacat1595]

@@rosslukeman I found that the 7701100, or 7701, is specifically designed for what I need. It may be a bit overkill for my application, but I will know for sure it will be safe for what I need! Thank you!

[@rosslukeman]

@@mokacat1595 Looks like a good option!

[@sebvincent]

Fantastic explanation, thank you. How do you adapt when charging from solar? In UK 12.4v is generally the point you'd want to cut the battery (regular non lithium batteries). Let's say your batteries are 50% (12.4v) with a heavy load, a trickle solar charge might skew the voltage reading, even though you want the load to be cut off (load current is greater than current from solar). So how do you adjust for the 'false' voltage reading when the batteries are receiving charge, in a way that also works at night (eg no solar). Is there a way to read the 'real' battery voltage at when charging, e.g.ignoring the boosted charging voltage? Thanks!

[@doglabdogtraining-gus.8873]

Grea6 video Ross, thank you , the first to explain the 3 ways to use the equipment.

[@rosslukeman]

Thanks for watching, great to hear that was helpful!

[@alanpetersen4497]

All the while watching your video, I couldn't help but think that most, if not all LifeP04 batteries have an internal BMS that disconnects the battery on Low, or High voltage. Therefore, the batteries are protected internally. The Battery Protect devices appear to be redundant when used with LifeP04 batteries, although the external BMS and smart battery protect may be beneficial when using other types of batteries like Lead acid, or AGM. Please tell me if I am wrong!

[@rosslukeman]

Hi Alan, you are right in that the BatteryProtects were developed in the days of lead-acid dominance, but that's not to say that they're useless with a lithium battery that has a built-in BMS. The BMS will shut down at absolute empty, but you may want a device in there that will shut down while the battery has some power left. This will provide a redundant shutdown in case the BMS fails (not likely but this would ruin the battery), but more importantly if something gets left on accidentally, you will find yourself with zero battery power if you only have the BMS handling things. Just some food for thought.

[@westwonic]

​​​I wired in a 100A BP 5 years ago into my 12v system, located between battery and inverter. Now I see that this is wrong. How do I rewire? Do I just move the out connection to the in, thereby bypassing the BP circuitry? Can I then use the H & L wiring connections to remotely switch the inverter? For info, except for 12v lighting connected directly to the MPPT charge controller, I have no other DC loads other than my 1000W PSW inverter.

[@johnsfox123]

I have a question similar to a previous one, but slightly different. I'd like to combine Scenarios 1 & 2 for controlling discharge. Meaning I want my Lynx BMS to control the BatteryProtect via the Lynx ATD, yellow wire, and BatteryProtect H input, but I also want a manual switch to disable discharge (like when I'm parked for a long time). I assume an inline switch on the yellow wire would work in this case? (Where since they're in series, BOTH the switch and BMS would have to be enabled for the BatteryProtect to allow discharge). Or is there a way to wire the BMS to L or H on the BatteryProtect, and the switch to the other port. It seems like this wouldn't work since the two controls would be in parallel and if EITHER is enabled then the BatteryProtect would allow discharge. Do you agree? What do you think the best wiring would be for this situation? p.s. Thanks for the awesome video. I really like how you have everything laid out on the plywood where it's simple and easy to see!!

[@alanblyde8502]

Thanks Ross, i assume it can also be switched on/off say from a Cerbo relay connected to relay B on the smart battery connect?

[@stevemcgowan3017]

hi ross can i connect my victron dc chargers 18amp and 30amp to my battery protect with that next to my starter battery on my campervan .also another question im not getting full power out my dc chargers anymore only get about 10amps .ive had buy victron ip22 30amp mains charger,but i need ideally dc chargers full power when we off grid and driving touring

[@gonzaloburgos8642]

This is a great video. Maybe you can also explain what the difference between lithium ion phosphate, batteries, and the difference between lithium, iron phosphate, batteries, and what it can do to these products as far as low voltage or high voltage or a surge what would be the outcome?

[@kairos5112]

Thank you for a great explanation. If you use the Victron Battery Protect as your main Load Off switch does the small load of the unit itsely (0.7 - 1.4 mA (depending on state of operation)) continue to drain on your battery ? I.e.Will I need a further main off such as the large red one you have in your demonstration setup in order to truly stop all potential parasitic drain for vehicle storage? Many thanks in advance,

[@greensfarmland]

Hey Ross, Thank you much, for all this great info. I have been wondering a safe way to connect two battery banks to the same inverter. It seems to me like I am on the right track. One battery bank old, and one new. I imagine the older one will drain faster. So I need an inline shut off. Would I go from battery to the battery protector, then to a diode, connecting the two battery banks? Also this is for my cabin, and the biggest battery bank is 470 amp hours, will that 65 amp hour battery protector be ok, or go bigger.

[@hemplimeoffgridder2236]

Thank you for the clear and simple explanations. Why have a battery protect between the charge controller and the battery? Thanks.

[@rosslukeman]

Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video! On the BatteryProtect, that is an emergency shutdown the BMS will use to cut off solar if the charge controller malfunctions.

[@davideriksen2434]

I want use one of these to connect lead acid to my lithium battery bank I will use cut off to protect batteries and over voltage to no over charge batteries

[@oddmanout98]

Thnk you for your detailed information, very helpful explanations. I have one quick question... I'm usion a LiFos Lithium batterey so do I have to select the Lithium mode? I would like to use the battery protect in Mode A so can I still use Mode A with a lithium battery. I don't have an external battery management system connected, but the Lifos has a builtin bluetooth app that shows state of charge and voltage etc. Sorry if my question is a simple one, I just want to be certain before I buy and install it. Thanks again All the best. Paul

[@crumbdav]

Do you think a use case could be used for the following use case: say you have two separate 12v battery banks. If one solar array produces excess power, and the battery is full, it diverts the charging power to the second battery bank?

[@davidpatrick1813]

I wonder if I even need this in my particular 200W and 200 AMPs battleborn batteries. I think they have automatic shut off built into their batteries. I'll have to ask them.

[@rosslukeman]

Yes they have an automatic shutoff when they are completely empty. The BatteryProtect could be used to shut down loads when there is still some reserve capacity.

[@laurentsosson1739]

Hello and barvo for the video I wanted to ask you if it is possible to install the bms from victron (16S for a packlife that I have in 48 volts? 600AH)? or do you have to have a victron battery? my batteries are EVE 280AH in 16/2P can we wire all the batteries with the bms from victron or do we need a bms compatible with the victron? otherwise is it possible if there is no can in the battery pack to tell victron (multiplus and cerbo GX) that I have a lead gel battery pack? there is no bms on the lead in general? my pack can be protected by its own BMS cutoff 2.80 volts and maximum charge at 3.65 volts Possibly just to emit more or less on the multiplus? thank you laurent

[@BennyBen9]

Great video. Very informative. Thanks for the information. I see in 3rd mode you can use the h to positive or negative. What's the benefits to switching on either side ? Thanks

[@rosslukeman]

Hi Benny, thanks for tuning in. Typically the H side has to go to positive, the L side only goes to negative, or ground. It gives you the option but I always use the H side connected to positive. There is no advantage either way, it's just versatile to allow you to connect it whichever way works for what you are setting up. Hope that helps, thanks-

[@pogolaugh]

Great video! Do you know if the ground/negative wire has to go to the system ground? Or can you just ground to the vehicle’s body? I’m trying to use it to keep my battery from dying so I need it to monitor the voltage still.

[@rosslukeman]

Hey Pogolaugh, my guess is that it would still work if you connect it to the vehicle's body. It just needs a 0V reference to take voltage readings of the battery. In many vehicles/systems, negative and the vehicle's chassis are bonded together, so connecting to either one would give you the same result. Hope that helps, let us know how it goes.

[@PeterSimonsHumpus]

Is it possible to combine scenario 2 and 3? Meaning that I want it to automatically disconnect my loads under 10.5V, but when I know my car is going to be parked for a long time I want to be able to turn off my loads when the battery is still fully charged.

[@rosslukeman]

Hi Peter, yes, you would just program it for a low battery shutdown at 10.5 volts, but when you open a switch connected to the BatteryProtect, it shuts down no matter what.

[@PeterSimonsHumpus]

@@rosslukeman excellent, thanks for explaining!

[@PeterSimonsHumpus]

@@rosslukeman I just realized that I also need the other scenario: run the loads even when my battery is too low. Is there a safe way to install a bypass switch?

[@rosslukeman]

@@PeterSimonsHumpus yes you could run cables through a switch near the BatteryProtect, a second cable on the IN lug would run to the bypass switch, and then a cable from the bypass switch would land back on the OUT lug of the BatteryProtect (and stack on top of the cable going to the loads). This would give the electricity an alternate route if the switch is turned on. This would be safe for the BatteryProtect but could of course be bad for the batteries in some cases.

[@adamsisernik4556]

I have two 48v batteries. Battery A (Basen Green 11.7kWh 51.2V) charges battery B (via the XT input of the Ecoflow delta pro, which is an inverter) via connected cables. With the Delta Pro, I can't set it so that battery A doesn't completely discharge when charging. What or how could I do to prevent battery A from draining to 0% as battery A does not allow this setting and is the only problem in my system in the sketch. Any idea?

[@KU9L]

Is there a Victron device that plugs into the relay port(s) that allows me to take realworld current that will power a 12 volt fan? I feel this video was a very good teaser, but dud not quite give enough info to actually accomplish the task. I know I am actually just turning on a low current relay, but a working example of a real world peace of hardware would go a long way to edumacating this 63 year ild electronic technicians brain so as i install my solar system into my wife's brand new 5W I can spend less time head scratching and more time telling her how brilliant I am. We work off-grid in the USFS & my 560ah of lifepo4, 3KVA Multiplus II, three Victron MPPTs, & Lynx distributor, & Cerbo will want so combos of both heating & cooling (ventilation) at the appropriate times. Thanks for all if your informative videos. :-) Cheers, Davey

[@robww5921]

So if I don't have a hardwired switch, I can still toggle on and off via Bluetooth and this will stop all loads in my system?

[@stevemcgowan3017]

or maybe i should connect battery protect to my positive bus bar inside campervan.i don’t want my starter battery power being cut off do i?

[@samscotchmer6836]

Fantastic and informative video as always. What is the bus bar that's attached to the shunt? I'm UK based and haven't seen anything like that before here but it seems a very neat and compact way to attach multiply negative cables to. Thanks

[@rosslukeman]

Hi Sam, thanks for tuning in. That bus bar is pretty cool but I should note it only works with the BMV-712 shunt, not SmartShunt (it runs into the plastic housing of the SmartShunt). Here it is on Amazon UK: www.amazon.co.uk/MIDNITE-MNSHUNT-4-STUDS-TERMINAL-included/dp/B01BKXRF6C/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2GW4QO4LWAYD2&keywords=midnite+solar+shunt&qid=1692128612&sprefix=midnite+solar+shun%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-1 Hope that helps!

[@samscotchmer6836]

@@rosslukeman sweet, thanks!! That's great because I only use the BMV-712 anyway. Great find.

[@bradgilley]

Hi Ross, thanks for the video. When connecting the battery protect to a VE Bus BMS, does it matter which side remote terminal (high or low) I plug into? Thanks!

[@rosslukeman]

Hi Brad, yes you will plug the wire from the BMS into the H (high) side of the BatteryProtect. The BMS will send 12V down this wire to make the BatteryProtect connect, and 0V when it wants to shut down that circuit. Great question, thanks for tuning in!

[@MrJellybean101]

Hi iv'e been asking everywhere and no one has answered my question and wondered if you can. I have a 100ah lifepo4 battery, 100w solar panel, a victron 75/15 mppt and an 1100w energizer inverter. How do i stop the inverter completely draining the battery. These battery protects can't be connected to an inverter. I would like a way to adjust the voltage and cut off. Any help would be appreciated.

[@rosslukeman]

Hi Darren, I agree, according to Victron, you should not use one of these with your inverter. One option is you could get a Victron inverter with a remote control port as shown in this diagram from the BatteryProtect manual: www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/Smart_BatteryProtect_12V_24V/en/installation-and-wiring-examples.html#UUID-8e0b5177-843c-d4dc-fb33-c46bccbf641f Option 2 - You could get a battery monitor such as a BMV-712 that has a relay, make that relay control a Cyrix-Li-Load device that breaks the line to the inverter. You set the battery conditions that set off the relay in the BMV-712. When it hits those conditions (low state of charge, etc), the Cyrix-Li-Load cuts off the inverter. I would check out the Cyrix line of products from Victron. They're not as sensitive about reverse current as the Battery Protects. Hope that helps-

[@kafeloos]

Hi Ross! Thanks for all the tips. They are very useful and it is nice to watch your videos. I wanted to ask where did you find that U shape bus bar that is connected to the Shunt. Do you mind to share it? Cheers

[@rosslukeman]

Hey there, thanks for tuning in, I'm glad you're finding the videos useful! That bus bar is the Midnite Solar Shunt Bus Bar and can be found here: amzn.to/3SJvWLc Note that it only works on a regular shunt, such as that used with the BMV-712 shown in the video. If it's a SmartShunt then this shunt bus bar will collide with the SmartShunt's plastic housing and won't fit. Hope that helps, thanks again for tuning in!

[@ZsoltPuskás-w8h]

Many thanks!!! You are so great in teaching!

[@rosslukeman]

Thank you!

[@DH-nb9ey]

Finally an idiots guide to setting up victron devices. Great video

[@jamessmetana6405]

Hoping you are able to supply yet another answer regarding the "GROUND". By using the GROUND port of the Battery Protect to the Shunt....should it be necessary to also Ground the Shunt to the Chassis? Information seems to indicate that the only lead from the Negative Post of the battery to the Shunt is needed. I am still obviously confused as to the best solution to have the entire system safely GROUNDED. I appreciate your expertise and help.

[@rosslukeman]

Hi James, in the BatteryProtect’s case, the GND means negative, connect to system negative (the shunt bus bar is system negative in this video). Ground and negative are sometimes used interchangeably. As a separate issue, I will typically add a cable from system negative to the chassis. This grounds the system to the chassis, but that cable is also part of my alternator charging circuit. Hope that helps!

[@jamessmetana6405]

@@rosslukeman Thank you Ross. Deeply appreciate your expert help.

[@gregnorman3183]

really enjoy your videos, very well explained and detail-thank you. I'm working on a project with a 100 amp battery protect. I need to know voltage and amps remote on/off switch. Would you happen to know or how I could obtain this information?

[@rosslukeman]

Hi Greg, thanks for tuning in. You would just get a Gardner Bender rocker switch or the like. The voltage would be passed through from your electrical system, so that would be the voltage (12V, etc). The switches can handle way more than that, so you're good. The amps are miniscule, it's just an on-off signal voltage, so will be a few milliamps.

[@theshepard22]

I know this isn't supposed to be used with or "downstream"? Of an inverter. What exactly would that mean? I have an inverter hooked up, but I'm pretty sure it shares some common connections. My DC box is above the inverter which rests on the ground. Maybe between the inverter and the DC box? I can't recall at the moment what the connections look like. I'm fine just protecting it with DC loads only also. Seems that is its only use case anyway.

[@rosslukeman]

I think you should check out the BatteryProtect manual, it shows electrical diagrams of how they want you to wire it for an inverter/DC loads combo.

[@jonasfeldt355]

Hi! The manual shows two ways to connect the switch, your way and between H and L. What is the difference?

[@rosslukeman]

There's not really a difference. If you connect H and L through a switch, then opening the switch will still shut down the unit. There are 3 ways to wire it, to do the same job.

[@tbeardmore1]

hey great vid , i need to know if the battery protect 65a will remember its settings once power is switched off by isolator or does it revert back to stock setting ,also can i place battery protect after leisure battery fuse before isolator switch cheers

[@rosslukeman]

Hi Thomas, I am pretty sure it will retain its settings after being turned off. On the placement, yes it should be fine to put it inside the switch after the fuse. Thanks for tuning in!

[@terry2833]

Hi Ross I have a multiplus 2 in my system along with the 100amp cut off switch setup at A and a low cut off set at 10.5 volts re connect at 12volts. My question is when it hits the cut off switch voltage 10.5 volts and my entrie system goes down, how do I get the system charged beause I plugged in shore power to the system and there is no charge to the multiplus? I am testing this before I venture out. Regards Terry

[@rosslukeman]

Hey Terry, the power is really only supposed to flow one direction through these, so you wouldn't have chargers and loads connected through the same BatteryProtect. In many cases you would just use these for the load side, as they are built for low-voltage shutdown, something that is going to be caused by loads and not necessarily chargers (unless the charger has a slow parasitic drain on the battery when it's in standby). Best case I would put one BatteryProtect on each side of your system, one on chargers, one on loads, or something along those lines. Hope that helps!

[@sailrockpaperscissors8261]

great content, , been re watching your video to get this fixed in my mind, saw one of your video regarding the Load disconnect and charge disconnects from the BMS , which port do they each go into on teh BP100, one to 12 v system and from Solar, thanks in advance

[@rosslukeman]

Hey there, thanks for checking out my videos. On the wires from the BMS connecting to the BP100, all of the BatteryProtects have a port named "remote" where any 12V signal wire plugs in to control the BatteryProtect. This port is where the BMS wires would plug in, whether being used as a load or charger disconnect by the BMS. Hope that helps, thanks for the question!

[@davidsomers3324]

Hi Ross, Been reviewing the SBPs as well as manual on them. I’m thinking of using them on a reputable internal BMS battery set up. May use them as an alarm prior to BMS shutdown (based on manufacturer settings) as well as autonomous disconnects. However, on the charger disconnect set up it appears you cannot set up your own voltage parameter. Your stuck with the 16v high voltage default. Hope I’m incorrect but is that not so? Maybe I can use the relay function in combo with a solid switch to shut ignition to the Balmar MC612 in case it goes haywire during charging?

[@rosslukeman]

Hi David, your use cases sound plausible to me. I am pretty sure you are correct on the 16V cutoff not being programmable. The high-voltage setting is not listed in the programming menu, only low-voltage disconnect. I can tell you it will disconnect though, above 16V, because it did it to me on my solar generator video/project. I switched it to the 24V setting, so it changed to a 32V high voltage setting, but my solar was higher voltage than that, and no power could get through. I changed to a basic relay in that case. I think your idea about letting it go into alarm over 16V, and having it control a SolidSwitch 104 that the alternator ignition wire runs through sounds like it would work in a high-voltage shutdown scenario. I hope I answered your question! Good luck with it-

[@Guns_N_Gears]

Can the over voltage be changed from 16v to 15 on the batt protect?

[@iamgazoo]

Instructions say these cannot be used with Inverters/Charges, which sort-of eliminates 95% of use cases.

[@rosslukeman]

To be clear they say to run the control wires of inverters through these, not the high-current power cables. So you can still do it, you're just installing these on the control wire, not the power cable of the inverter.

[@westwonic]

​​​I wired in a 100A BP 5 years ago into my 12v system, located between battery and inverter. Now I see that this is wrong. How do I rewire? Do I just move the out connection to the in, thereby bypassing the BP circuitry? Can I then use the H & L wiring connections to remotely switch the inverter?

[@rosslukeman]

@@westwonic yes if you have an inverter from Victron with the H & L terminals, then that is perfect. Put the wire going to the inverter's H terminal through the BatteryProtect. How the power cable gets to the inverter doesn't matter, so yes you could move it from Out and put it on top of the cable on the IN side, and the inverter gets power. 18 AWG wire goes from BatteryProtect OUT terminal to inverter H terminal. Hope that helps, diagrams here: www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/Smart_BatteryProtect_12V_24V/en/installation-and-wiring-examples.html

[@westwonic]

@@iamgazoo many thanks for advice

[@westwonic]

@@rosslukeman I bought a new Victron 12v 800VA inverter. I w,ant to mount it vertically and instructions reccomend fan at bottom. I can't see any fan, so is that power connections at top or bottom?

[@jtourche]

NewB here, is this battery protect recommended if using the Lynx distributor with MultiplusII, MPPT, and 712 shunt?

[@rosslukeman]

Hey there, thanks for being a subscriber. The parts you listed do not negate the utility of a BatteryProtect. I noticed you did not mention what batteries you have. If you have Victron Smart lithium, them you would use the BatteryProtects as shown in example 1 of this video. If you want the functionality shown in examples 2 or 3 of this video, then you could add a BatteryProtect to do that job. The components you listed do not do what the BatteryProtect does, other than the MultiPlus II shutting itself down below a certain battery voltage, however this does not cover your DC loads, which will keep going and drain your batteries all the way down.

[@mattsaulsbury1831]

so can i have more than one solar arrray charging the same battery bank?

[@captainborchik3141]

Can i put one BP on charge and second BP on discharge in the same system?

[@rosslukeman]

Technically yes, some systems have that. I would check the victronenergy.com site and pick up their diagrams on the BatteryProtect page to see what they recommend.

[@zmaesb]

I use setup 8 , so disconnect @ 12 V , but only geth a message low voltage 11.5 v end the battery protect doesnt cutt off the load?

[@zmaesb]

I found the problem , i mixed out en in :)

[@zmaesb]

nice job

[@jh665]

Hi Ross, I have another question. I installed the Battery protect just befor a power converter. Now the converter starts the alarm as soon as I switch it on. Someone told me that a Batterie protect dosn‘t work wit a power converter. Is that true.

[@rosslukeman]

Hi J H, I can weigh in but I need a little more info. Is this a converter from WFCO or something like that? Please give me a model number and I can give you a more precise answer. Thanks, Ross

[@jh665]

@@rosslukeman thank you for the quick reply. The converter is a solartronics FS2000D 12V 2000 Watt pure sinus. Jens

[@georgschlestein8668]

hello, can you Show how top Connect with a Charging Modul additional?

[@TomTalley]

Thanks for the resource.

[@rosslukeman]

Glad that was helpful, thanks for watching!

[@qux8508]

You dont need this if you have a bms on your lifepo4 right

[@rosslukeman]

Hi Qux, you don't want to use the BMS as a low battery shutdown. That is a last resort. The BatteryProtect would typically be set by the end user to shutdown at a higher voltage than the BMS shuts down. Thanks for watching!

[@qux8508]

@@rosslukeman thnx for the reply. i am considering taking one

[@RevivedWarrior1]

isn't that fuse before the battery disconnect enough to not use those?

[@RevivedWarrior1]

has there been a hazardous situation with running only the fuse?

[@RevivedWarrior1]

I kind of see why you might put them between the charge controller and the inverter for monitoring purposes.

[@rosslukeman]

Thanks for the comment, these are not used for the same purpose as fuses. They shut the circuit down if a load is left on and runs your battery down. At a certain level they cut off to preserve the battery. They are also for remote control of circuits. Fuses serve a different purpose.

[@RevivedWarrior1]

@@rosslukeman otherwise it drains the battery, thats a good idea.

[@Electronzap]

Good info.

[@rosslukeman]

Thank you!

[@dune_tech]

Just as I'm setting up mine!

[@rosslukeman]

Awesome! Hope that helped with your install.

[@fester.]

spot on,very helpful,thank you

[@rosslukeman]

Thanks Fester!

[@tonycassidy5722]

How do you know what amp you require??

[@rosslukeman]

You have to know how many amps your loads or chargers are sending through. Or you could just mimic what I used in the video for different applications. For me I use the 65-amp unit for the vast majority of cases.

[@tonycassidy5722]

Thanks, much appreciated...

[@daviddorsey8754]

Who makes system negative module seen in video

[@rosslukeman]

It's the Midnite Solar Shunt Busbar

[@daviddorsey8754]

@@rosslukeman Ross, You gonna make me Buy From You.

[@jla1875]

EXCELLENT!

[@rosslukeman]

Thanks!

[@pogolaugh]

Scenario 1: 6:40 Scenario 2/3: 11:48

[@keithwingo514]

A while back Will Prowse was using these in his DIYs but stopped because he said Victron told him the BatteryProtect shouldn't be connected to an AC inverter. I'm using a BatteryProtect with a small 200w cigarette lighter inverter with no issues, but FYI.

[@defenderv3]

Finally, it is possible connect an inverter AC, to a baterry protect? the inverter is an edecoa 1,500w pure wave. Thanksss

[@rosslukeman]

Here is a blurb from the manual (www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Manual-Smart-Battery-Protect-12V-24V-65-A-100-A--220-A-EN-NL-FR-SV-DE-PT-ES-IT-TR.pdf) "4. The short circuit protection of the SBP will be activated if you try to directly connect loads with capacitors on their input (eg inverters). For that use case, please use the SBP to control the remote on/off switch on the inverter, instead of disconnecting the higher power DC line." SBP stands for Smart Battery Protect. This may also be a moot point if you get an inverter with a low-battery shutdown. It would have virtually the same effect.

[@markmac9515]

@@rosslukeman Hi, does that mean that it is better to use the SBP to operate a relay that switches the load to the inverter or does the SBP have a relay inside?

[@rosslukeman]

@@markmac9515 Hi Mark, some inverters (including Victron inverters) have a "remote" port on the front where you can turn the inverter on and off with a 12V signal wire. 12V = on, and 0V = off. You can run this small signal wire through a BatteryProtect, with the wire originating at System Positive. When the system dips below the BatteryProtect's cutoff voltage (say 10.5 volts), the BatteryProtect will break the signal wire (through its internal switch) and the inverter remote port will receive 0 volts, turning it off. To answer your question directly, yes you could have the 12V signal wire run from System Positive to a BatteryProtect, and the signal wire would be connected to a high-current relay instead of the inverter's remote port. This high current relay would open when the BatteryProtect shuts down its 12V signal, breaking the positive power cable running to the inverter, and shutting it down. So the BatteryProtect can work similarly to a relay, it just has a short-circuit protection that the relay does not. However it is just simpler to control the signal wire to the inverter, rather than the power cable to the inverter. This eliminates the high-current relay from the circuit, saving time, money and wiring. Hope that helps!

[@bmwolgas]

@@rosslukeman Pretty sure I permanently damaged my Victron by connecting it to a 2,000w Samlex inverter. It initially seemed to work, but after just one cycle of remotely turning the system on and off, now my inverter stays permanently on when connected to the Victron, even when completely turning the unit off by opening the remote switch and disconnecting the ground such that nothing on the LED display even comes on. The printed manual that comes with it is pretty complicated, but the online version is MUCH better and I wish I had read that one first. Luckily the inverter has a remote port so I will buy a new Victron unit and try connecting it that way instead.

[@MKasap-te8vm]

My device shows E1, but the device does not have short to earth. What is the solution?.

[@davidpatrick1813]

Can I use one of these as a battery isolator? I am looking for a veh that I want to have a second battery and want it to charge as the motor is running. I am making my rig into a light duty mobile auto repair and I will want to use an inverter for computer and drills etc. These units look for low voltage cut off but not sure if I can charge a second battery.

[@rosslukeman]

Hi David, they would technically work as a battery isolator, but the voltage settings would be off. They would preserve your engine battery at their cutoff of 10.5 volts (or whatever you set it to), but you really need your engine battery preserved at 13.5 volts or higher. Basically after the engine is off, there should be no further drain on the engine battery (or not much). This would be a case of buying the wrong thing and trying to make it work. I would use a DC-DC charger, or worst-case even a voltage sensing relay instead of one of these. Please see my other videos on alternator charging (if you haven't already). Thanks for the comment!