Provisional Cast On using Judy's Magic Cast On

[@cynthiagilbreth1352]

Your depth of knowledge is astounding, and you explain the techniques simply and accurately. Thank you so much.

[@eliedgecomb4903]

Thank you for teaching why and not just how. It’s invaluable!

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Glad you think so!

[@stellaacres681]

I just want to add that I use this cast on for underarm....instead of backloop cast on to increase top down after separating the sleeves, I use this cast on and add it to the other side to the stitches held for sleeve. I use a smaller size fixed circ to hold everything.....so much easier to work straight from that then picking them up off scrap yarn. Once I pick up to start sleeve, it's all there and no picking up off the cast on or Kitchener stitched. Just mod the edges of need be like normal

[@Thomas_mic]

Thank you! So appreciative for this video tutorial❤

[@Lydjnzhll]

Thank you for this video! I’ve been wondering how to combine provisional and Judy’s magic cast on. I use this to make double brimmed hats.

[@muffsmerino]

Your videos are amazing as always. Thank you, this is so helpful.

[@KathyReedKnits]

Thanks a million! I really enjoy your deep knowledge of these processes and your descriptions of the pluses and minuses for each. Rock on.!

[@puglover3015]

Thank you for the clear video. I have a question about how to apply this to my project. I'm working on a sweater that commences at the middle back neck with a "crochet provisional cast-on" (which I want to replace with JMCO) because of that stitch-job problem a normal provisional cast-on creates. The neckline has an I-cord edge. Here is how the actual pattern reads: "Right Side Collar: Using the crochet provisional method and larger circular needle, CO 15 sts [so I understand I put 15 sts on both needles]. Row 1: (RS) Knit. Row 2: (WS): Sl 3 pwise wyif, k to end. Rep Rows 1-2 thirteen more times. Cut yarn and place sts on a holder. " Row 1 of this pattern would actually be row two of my knitting. I'm working in garter stitch so I understand that I need to turn my needles over to the purl side and knit that first row. So far so good. Because with JMCO you end up with two rows of stitches already on the needles, my dilemma is how do I get the I-cord started on those first two rows so that when I begin begin knitting there is no two-row gap in the I-cord edge. OR, in my case do I great the cast-on row like it's the first knit row of my pattern and when I turn the needles, I treat that side as the WS and start the I-cord. Even doing it this was with still produce a gap I think. How do I get around that. I would greatly appreciate your help. Thank you.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Try a Turkish CO, instead. You will have the correct number of sts waiting for you, and there's no built-in extra row.

[@dianevilliiers525]

Thanks. This is just what I needed

[@sandramarshall7712]

You are awesome! Great Tutorial, as always.

[@tanyabriggs8969]

I was so excited to try this rather than the crochet method since I use the Judy's cast on for socks easily. BUT this was not easy to execute as a provisional BECAUSE of 2 things. 1...you didn't make it clear if one needs to keep the 2nd needle holding the provisional stitches...and 2nd...it apparently doesn't work well IF a person does not have the right length of circular needles. I tried a lot of times to make this work with magic loop using 40 and 32 in needles (casting on 128 stitches). Maybe if I had an extra hand or two...but it was just too unruly with cables, needles and yarn ends all over the place. I might try this again when I have smaller diameter cables, but all my interchangeable needles are NOT sock sized and all my sock sized are 32-40 in cables which just isn't happening with this cast on.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Whether you need a second needle or not depends on how long you're working in one direction before you need to return to the starting point to work in the other direction. In some cases, a second needle is needed, in other cases, it's not. I've used JMCO as a PCO for blankets, where I wanted live sts at the start in order to work an i-cord BO, later. In that situation, I cast on as many as 135 sts. I used interchangeable tips on two extra-long cords, with a cap on the far end of each cord for the CO, then removed the tip and capped the cord for the sts holding the non-worked sts. There are lots of different ways to use PCOs, and any given use may require an approach different than other uses.

[@lesleypaskevich3348]

Wish more than anything you could show me a provisional cast on for k3, p1 ribbing to line up properly... been at it all day for starting my embruns cardigan and I’m always off that 1/2 stitch like you showed here .... grrrr.... really want it to line up... tried figure 8, Turkish cast on, now watching this again...

[@RoxanneRichardson]

If you are knitting a top down sweater, and it's the shoulders you want to line up, just do a normal CO, and then when you PU sts along that edge in order to work in the other direction, PU in the center of /\ rather than \/. The sts will be aligned base-to-base. >|< where | is the CO edge and the sts come out of that "line".

[@karenoneill5046]

Thank you for your provisional cast on videos. I have been reviewing them all, including your older video on the provisional carton with built-in lifeline. I have a cowl pattern which calls for a large number of stitches (100) which can be grafted at the end for a seamless join. Do you have a recommendation among the provisional cast on methods for a large number of stitches? Thank you.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Will you have to graft in pattern, or is it stockinette or garter stitch? The one thing I have noticed about grafting off the needles is that when you are grafting the start to the end (rather than grafting to different pieces, that were both knit toward the graft), the set up is a bit different, but otherwise, it's fairly straightforward to graft stockinette or garter. If I have to graft in some other stitch pattern, I cast on with waste yarn, and bind off in waste yarn, and then graft by following the path of the sts on each side of the join. I wrote an Ask a Knitter column about this years ago, which you can see here: www.ravelry.com/twir/83/ask-a-knitter-23. You do have to snip and pick out the waste yarn, but you don't have to deal with live sts, which is great when you mess up and have to take out the graft and re-do it (when I say "you mess up," I mean *me*, because messing up is inevitable when I have to graft in pattern).

[@karenoneill5046]

Thank you. Luckily, I am grafting the beginning to the end in stockinette stitch. I will take your advice with the waste yarn.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Are you used to grafting? If so, you could do it right off the needles, since it's stockinette. The set up is slightly different. Rather than the purl on the front needle, knit on the back needle, you start with purl on the front and then the purl off, knit on for the back needle. But if you aren't sure about grafting, waste yarn always works. It's a trick I learned from Lucy Neatby's "toe chimney" method of grafting sock toes.

[@TheMellis01]

Thank you.

[@annestein298]

Nice video I was wondering if one day you could review tge different ribbing and cast off I loveknitting top down sveaters but rarely happy with the ribbing or the cast off I choose I trieb minus 19percent or tubular cast off etc...any advice would be great

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Which ribbings have you tried (1x1, 2x2? Others?). What do you mean by you "tried minus 19percent or tubular cast off etc." Do you switch needle sizes when you switch to the ribbing? Do you want the ribbing to pull in, or hang straight down? Which bind off methods have you tried? What is it that you dislike about them?

[@annestein298]

Ok I tried 1x1 and 2 by 2 i'm even trying to modify a pattern with a double knitting turtle neck And ready to try a brioche ribbing for more drape... But not sure On an other pull I did took 10 percent off for the ribbing... Think I saw thay on an Elizabeth Ziemerman's book .. But it pulls to much I generally want to change needle size .. But I confess i often forget What I don't like about the many (2 or 3) casting off I tried.. Even the so called super stechy (can't remember exacty wich ones) is that feel of "string" at the base That is why I love the tubular cast off But it seems to pull the ribbing in even more?... Right ? Any advice would be great... Even though i've been binge learning knitting in the last 3 years ( with my grandmother Internet! ) I lack experience ... And YOU don't I Love your videos Sorry for my english .. I'm french... Hard to be precise I like my pullover to hang a tiny bit in rather that totally strait And I would like a long length of ribbing for the cuffs that I could fold back As for the turtle el neck... No idea yet! Close to the neck? Slouchy? I have to try and see Thank you for taking the time to read me... You don't have to loose your time with me if I'm asking to much.... I'm telling you I feel like internet is like my grandmother that i could bug when she taught me how to crichet! I loved my grandmother wisdom knowledge and EXPERIENCE GAVE A GREAT DAY

[@RoxanneRichardson]

The recommendation to decrease 10% could be for one of two reasons. In the days when EZ was writing books, sweaters had more ease (10% larger in circumference than the body), so in order for the ribbing to actually hug the body, the stitch count might have to be reduced. In other cases, the choice is to either a) reduce by 10% and keep the same needle size OR b) use a smaller needle. Either choice would make the ribbing smaller, but in different ways. If the bind off edge is rigid, that might be due to the type of bind off, or it might be due to technique. Tubular bind off is stretchiest for 1x1 ribbing, but you have control over how tightly you pull the yarn as you work the bind off. You might need to keep a looser tension on the yarn as you pull it through each stitch. If you bind off by knitting/purling as you go, you again have control over your tension by making sure you aren't tugging on the working yarn too much after you complete a stitch or pass one over. Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off is a good one to add additional stretch, but you still have to make sure you aren't yanking/tugging on the yarn to neaten/tighten up the sts on your right hand needle.

[@janeensutton3978]

Too much information at once. Very confusing. Keep it simple