Rust prevention note on used chassis that have been galvanized

[@DPGDEFENDERSKirkbymoorside]

Agree with your comments on galvanising old items, same goes with repairing and galvanising old bulkheads. I tell the same to all my rebuild customers, hence why on the full nut and bolt rebuilds, we only use new chassis and bulkheads.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Hi! On some parts galvanising is fine - like mudflap brackets etc, but frames and bulkheads are a nightmare to repair - huge gobs of zinc buried in the cavities! Lot of fun when welding.. I think if not waxed the original but galvanised chassis seem to rot quicker - I wonder if it is the acid that is not washed out? I think Marsland and Richards get away with it as they do not put the reinforcements in the chassis like LR but make the whole frame with stronger metal. If I get a chassis swap to do this year I will cut an old chassis from front to back to show what is in there Mike

[@dsw8103]

The vent/drain holes need to be in the "North/South" locations of how the frame will be oriented whilst hanging for the dipping process. Also, the frame needs to be agitated in the pickling bath to allow any small air pockets to escape, thereby allowing complete pickling and galvanizing of internal corners, etc....A good galvanizer can get you a 100% zinc coating if the base metal is in decent shape. The chlorides in the road salt will eventually eat away at the zinc coating if the undercarriage isn't washed well every winter. Galvanized steel is the overall best protection for your frame, though.

[@goldgitter3548]

When the paint flakes off it blocks the drain holes and then you have "full time moisture" Also,if you enlarge the drain hole why not drill holes on the top to cause "cross flow of air"?