Rusty Seized Solid Drill Press Restoration & Repair - Part 2 - Mechanical Repairs and Rebuild

Chuck Restoration here: • Rusty Drill Chuck Rest...
Welcome back to Part 2 of my Drill Press Restoration! I know it's taken a while, but I was waiting delivery of a few parts and then ended up having to pull an 80 hour week at work so didn't have time to finish off!
Bit of background: I don't know much about where this drill came from originally, but I bought if for peanuts from a guy who was going to scrap it. He thought I was mad to buy it and swore it was broken beyond repair, sounded like a good challenge to me!
There wasn't anything too difficult in the mechanical repairs, could've been a lot easier if I had a lathe but I made do with the stuff I had ( I wouldn't recommend using a ghetto lathe, probably very dangerous!)
The worst part was that a pulley snapped during cleaning so I had to do a welding repair, building the part up with short blasts of weld then grinding back into shape!
I'm happy with how this one has turned out and I really enjoyed the restoration, it was a pain in the backside to film though as my workshop is tiny and the press is rather large, not the easiest to work around!
If you liked what you see then please subscribe, comment and thumbs up! More restoration coming soon!!!

[@paulcartwright1833]

I watch many restoration videos as I am in a similar business. I was so impressed with your Seized Drill Press Video. The part that impressed me the most was when you needed to make a new bolt. You said " I don't have a lathe", and you made it anyway. Believe me, it takes a lot more talent to improvise than to use a fancy piece of equipment. WAY TO GO!!!

[@Giblet535]

Excellent aesthetic restoration! Really nice. I like the Hammerite silver finish.

[@willieckaslike]

First class quality workmanship. And from a fellow Brit ! Thank you for sharing.

[@AliMirjamali]

Thank you very much for the video. I really enjoy watching such calming videos during these desperate quarantine days.

[@BlueRidgeJ79]

Fantastic job. I would definitely find myself watching the video back again and again trying to remember where parts go!

[@sparesorrepair9118]

Josh F I had 4 screws in my hand when I was laying it all out and I couldn’t figure out where they went, that’s when I realised I didn’t have the pulley guard laid out on the bench 😂! Easy done! Thanks for watching

[@Yacekwaw]

@@sparesorrepair9118 The Far East is different People, a different mentality and a different approach to work, may also not have money for a better workshop, better tools. But they enjoy what they do and we should not laugh at them.

[@Dieselnut216]

I don’t think I’d want to get it dirty after all that. It looks beautiful

[@boblewis5558]

How apposite. I'm about 1/2 way through doing the exact same thing on an old Meddings 5 speed bench pillar drill donated to me by a late friend before he died. Same as you I use Citric acid for derusting stuff but I do everything I can using different sized polythene/ABS plastic storage boxes with the biggest I've used so far being a 50 litre box. I have used a 100 litre plastic drum though previously to electrolyse rust off a tow bar ... Worked a treat! Mine has no base, only a VERY substantial bottom collar. No table or rack/pinion lift and no motor. The latter has been resolved with a very nice 3/4 HP 3 phase motor that I acquired ages back for about £20 ... It's like new! I've bought a new 5 HP capable VFD that will drive it so bags of spare capacity so should run nice & cool. I have the main body all stripped down including removing the aluminium label and brass serial plate held on by spiral rivets! Ready and waiting for paint stripping. I use the same recipe for paint stripper as you ... Caustic soda, wallpaper paste and water ... Sadly I had to use Nitromors on the motor end caps of my lathe motor that I'm also refurbishing as they are aluminium! *CAUTION* to those unaware, concentrated liquid caustic soda is dangerous and will eat through human flesh AND aluminium and casting alloy faster than you can blink!! DO NOT USE IT ON OR NEAR ANY ALUMINIUM PARTS! Wear protective gear, especially face and hand protection. Keep white vinegar and/or citric acid handy to neutralise the alkali. Great job you did on that. I hope my final result is as good! 👍👍👍

[@scottmccarroll2618]

I have a big old drill press it weighs about 50kg but I don’t have the time or patience or strength these days to do what you have done with your beautiful restoration though it desperately needs one but after watching your video you have given me motivation to do something about it,,, thanks for sharing Scott

[@alannorthcarolina1776]

I’ve done ghetto mill before too!

[@Godzilla2k69]

Well done. Have you considered what might be done to reduce the run-out, or wobble of the bit ?

[@kylethomason9531]

Depends which part is bent lol I had to take the shaft from the quill and take it to a drive line shop to get it straightened out lol

[@TomTrees]

A few things without spending money...am going to get some belts today can get these quite cheaply in an agri/lawnmower shop, fiver each, came here to look for size. Runout is more noticable with a long bit, and is about the best poor mans dial indicator that I have for checking some things like arbor fit, should you have runout, swapping the MT 180deg in slot might give better results whenmachine is run. I marked a spot to make note of arbor and MT where it seemed best. Bit of marker to "blue" both arbors to check for contact, and check for burrs, clean with white spirit afterwards! Raising the table dead on centre until the long bit nearly touches, should give an idea of slop, when pushed sidewards, and be noticable centred on the table bore. (belts tight seems like it will stiffen this up a bit, if the lids open when doing above) That little grub screw on the left also has much effect on this, Depending on condition, may need to fettle this, or make a new one from some threadbar. I had some meat to play with, (plenty of the flat left to sink into slot) took some trial and error to get a much better fit, bit of a faff to dismantle return spring and disengage (gear?) to drop down spindle, advance that wee screw and check if spindle will go back in, I made mine very stiff, harder on the spring but that was a fiver on the bay, MAKE NOTE not to damage that spindle, and make sure the teeth are in the right location to enter, as if the screw is very tight against slot, hard to tell which maybe fouling. Might revisit this, seems one could look into making another of these set screws, should it not weaken the casting... Beyond that bearings, dial indicator, and possibly MT and chuck, might as well go the full hog then and restore, maybe motor bearings too, Hopefully I can get away without doing all that for now. Two things to make note of That earth wire maybe damaged,! and should the switch be acting strange, then the panel could be backwards, took me a while to find this. ... Haxby_shed pillar drill press improvements , and cut to 11:40 to see. Tom

[@alandecorte2962]

Well done, and thank you very much for sharing your skills and workmanship.

[@gregorykuhn2552]

Great video. I'm in the process of refurbishing my floor standing drill press. I have a question on the table lift mechanism/worm gear crank. The spur gear driven by the worm gear sits on an axle pin and float on it within the housing and can float about 7mm side to side in my unit and it appears to be the same on the unit you restored shown at about the 14:51 mark in the video. Is this the way it should be? Seems like there should be collars on either side to keep the spur gear centered on the shaft?

[@Lj-ni9vt]

Excellent restoration, my man. I have a different name brand , but very similar press. This helped a bunch. Be blessed in Jesus name.

[@porthose2002]

I loved the restoration! Are you sure that your chuck doesn't have a bit of wobble in it though? Either that or maybe the drill bit? My experience has been that your workpiece shouldn't be moving around like that on the table and in the video, I noticed the wobble before the bit entered the wood. A test might be to clamp the wood down, drill a hole and then measure the hole against the diameter of the bit. If the hole is bigger, then we'd know for sure.

[@MaxGiganteum]

-- To check runout, simply install a short rod of metal that is true into the chuck. Put a dial indicator on it and that will show you the runout at the chuck. It's wise to spin the chuck by hand while the indicator is on it and while you're doing that, apply a little side to side pressure while watching the indicator as the chuck rotates. You might see that there is more runout with some pressure than if you're just freely spinning the chuck by hand. Note that the chuck itself may be fine and any free play may be found at the bearings or in the spindle. The ultimate question for many in the shop is how much free play is acceptable for you. For most guys, even .010 runout is just fine for stuff around the house and shop but each of us has to determine for ourselves what is good and what isn't. In my decades of experience, what I've discovered is that a lot of the problems lay in the bearings. Most of these types of benchtop drill presses don't have any way to adjust bearing tension due to the design. If the body and spindle assembly are okay then the only solution tends to be a set of high quality bearings when solving runout issues. Even so, you generally cannot expect to get the .000 runout that you'll find on a quality milling machine. If the bearings aren't tight and have a very slight amount of free play in the bore, one of the ways to tighten them up is to install them while using a very thin feeler gauge. Feeler gauge can be had in sizes from .0005 to at least .005 in increments of .0005. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum

[@porthose2002]

@@MaxGiganteum I love the idea of using a feeler gauge. Great idea!

[@MaxGiganteum]

-- As an addendum... remember that if the bore for the bearing is out of round then feeler gauge shimming isn't going to true it up unless you use the shim technique where you use small pieces of feeler gauge in an attempt to shift the bearings over to the point of center. What do I mean by this? You stack short, stubbier pieces on one side of the bearing which pushes the bearing over in the opposite direction. Can this work? The answer is yes if you are careful and go through the process of trial and error. However, remember that unless the shims are used with some sort of light adhesive, then they can shift during the use of your equipment which will most likely result in an ever escalating run out condition all over again. Of course, to know where you are truly at, one has to use a dial indicator if you expect perfection. What about using an epoxy to take up the gap? In other words, using a multi-part epoxy resin or something like JB Weld to re-center bearings and effectively glue them in place? I personally would never recommend doing this. Why? Because it's not really a permanent fix and there's a good chance the repair will fail. If that happens you'll have to remove the resin or the JB Weld and start over... for most folks this is not only a disaster but a nightmare to accomplish without doing further damage. The smart play is to not go down that road in the first place. Yes, I've heard all the stories again and again about success and about how some guys are the master of JB Weld, blah-blah-blah... but here's the thing - you always hear about the successes, you always hear about the lottery winner. You never end up hearing about all the failures and the millions of guys whose lottery ticket did not win. Here's another thing to think about - what will you do if you have to replace the bearing again? You'll have to press out the bad bearing and the odds are super high you will destroy the resin or JB Weld during the process that's requiring you or someone else to go through the nightmare of another more serious repair. Using feeler gauge stock to shim or otherwise tighten up a bore is completely reversible by just removing the feeler gauge. IMHO, the shim technique should only be used for gaps of maybe .010 - .012 total though some guys will go up to .020 - .030 which is the equivalent to .010 - .015 per side. Choose wisely in how far you'll go. Anyway, things like JB Weld are not so easily removed the majority of the time, REMEMBER THAT! Of course I'll end this section of my diatribe by saying this: while the feeler gauge shim technique can be effective, the real repair for a bore that is out of round or enlarged too far is simply to overbore on the original center line, manufacture a repair sleeve out of a suitable metal using a lathe or other machine tool and then install it to restore the bore to center and to the original size for the bearings. There's your permanent fix. Use the shim repair technique only if it's really truly viable. Also, when using the shim repair technique, if the gap between the bore for the bearings and the bearing body itself is too large, then stack 2, 3 or even 4 layers of thinner shim stock instead of using one thicker piece. Why? Because the shims will get too stiff once you get to about .004 in thickness for them to accurately and easily revolve around a 360° surface area. Thinner stock is also far easier to install without trouble. What trouble? You'll find that it wants to deflect and crush out of shape. In other words it can be difficult to install when there is pressure on it. The trick is to install it about halfway into the bore while it's still halfway on the bearing surface. Then push or draw it in with a press or a threaded puller - USE LUBE!!! Trust me when I say it that it can be a royal PITA to get done and be tight. I know because I used to do it frequently when I used to work for what is now the world's biggest airline... - Max Giganteum

[@shensuohao]

Thank you for sharing, I am working on my 15” 12 speed craftsman now, showed me some nice techniques!

[@bennyogden4524]

You are truly a badass when it comes to Restoration man

[@jdwisdom9433]

I have one just like this one except different brand name and 110V. Now I believe I know what to do to make it work again. The handle spins around without lowering the chuck. Thanks, JD

[@wallaceknifeworkshomestead]

Ghetto Lathe!! I love it! Great job!

[@JimWhitaker]

I'm just starting a restoration of an apparently identical drill, branded Clarke. Come to a stop because I can't get the nut on the top of the spindle drive to undo. It rotates but it looks as if the threads under the nut have stripped. May have to cut the nut but that will leave me with a spindle with stripped threads. 😞 Also the quill only goes down about 50mm before coming to a hard stop. (The depth stop on the quill appears to be free.) I was not keen on disassembling the spring cap but I guess you have showed me a way to stay safe!

[@benwilson1979]

Great job! Always nice to repair, instead of replacing.

[@sparesorrepair9118]

I find it very therapeutic bringing an old machine back to life :)

[@raymondvillain]

Can you tell us about the "rust remover"? I was impressed by the condition of the parts after sitting overnight in the bath. What was it?

[@garyjones2582]

Hank I'm not sure of the brand he used but Evapo-rust will do the same thing.. Sorry it took u a year to get a reply..

[@darrinmcgann]

Wow that's amazing! You sir are an artist. I originally planned to skip ahead to the end to see how it turned out.... But ended up watching the whole thing... All three parts! 😄

[@jesseramos1561]

Hand clamps for press are a must.

[@andrevanderwatt9860]

Great to see what you got done

[@ventnelson]

Thank you for the video. I just bought a rusty, fully operational, Craftsman bench top drill that I am anxious to restore. Love doing this.

[@cjlamber]

Holy Crap! I thought these things were only 2 or 3 parts Max!! and that includes the drill bit and chuck key. So what is it with all this other stuff?.... Bearings, melted fans, more bearings and random stuff that you probably swept off the floor??? I swear I saw a prosthetic leg in there. So somewhere there is some guy walking around with a limp who had his rusty old bench drill stolen so you can get your jollies on You tube!!!

[@damienmiller]

Thanks for sharing this - I've got an old, cheap drill press of similar design that needs refurbishment and I'm definitely going to steal your idea for disassembling the quill spring without it flying apart.

[@lancieiom]

I have bought the exact same Tull drill in an auction, I need new belts, what size did you out on yours please?

[@metalman065]

Awesome job. That should last you for years to come. Enjoyed the videos on this rebuild. Thanks

[@sparesorrepair9118]

Jimbo Edwards cheers for watching! I’m not sure how much I’ll use it but it’ll come in handy for future restorations I’m sure!

[@metalman065]

@@sparesorrepair9118 I would definitely get use out of it. I'm looking for a good one as of now for my shop, it would be an awesome addition to my collection of tools I use almost daily. Again, awesome job on the restore, thanks.

[@shockz16]

Was waiting on this part 2. This is probably my fave of your restorations thus far. Loved the ghetto lathe lol. Awesome job, mate.

[@sparesorrepair9118]

Cheers mate, glad you’re still enjoying these! That little Makita drill gets some real stick, I bodge it into all kinds of dodgy situations 😂

[@nortonlopesdosreis9594]

@@sparesorrepair9118 ĺĺ

[@katenelson916]

Hey, thanks for the video. I recently inherited a similar style from the same company. Having a hard time figuring out how to loosen the belts so I can change the speed. Any tips?

[@sparesorrepair9118]

On this model you adjust the bolt on the motor mounting with a spring on it, the pulley tension is adjusted by positioning the motor closer/further from the drill using this bolt

[@robinalexander5772]

Awesome job!👍👍👍 what did 101 people not like? Keep doing what your doing!

[@rmee5165]

why is it wobbly?...is the chuck shaft bent or not centered or is the bit bent?

[@tombarlow6176]

Wonderful restoration good job . I have a exact same drill press

[@NAPOTRAVELGUIDEELSALVADOR]

Tom, may i have the sizes of the 2 v belts, please!

[@cwmaxfield2000]

Thanks for showing how to hold that spring in place. Im doing likewise. Huge help. 👍

[@glengrossnickle4985]

Maybe I missed it. What brand is It? It looks a lot like mine. I got mine very cheap hopefully it turns out like yours. It is very rusty barn find. Was going to just cleaning up. But you have gave md

[@stevebayliss4597]

Fantastic!!! Any idea of the chuck key size that I'm sure you had to replace?

[@clawpicker]

In the old days we used to be able to buy Kent paint stripper here on spray cans. It was really efficient and only the biggest lumps of body filler would need a second application. These days I find stuff advertised as paint stripper, but I doubt it would remove pizza dough from the bench top.. The old chemicals were probably very dangerous, but it's a pain to remove paint and filler these days. I mix brake fluid in wallpaper glue which will do a decent job on some paints.

[@glorytoukraine.against_wars]

I am sure that this drilling machine has become much better than when it was completely new. Awesome work💯🤜🤛 And the bench looks cleaner 😁

[@sparesorrepair9118]

I always clean the bench a little after use now 😂

[@b.c.junctionembroiderynj8804]

hey , in the process of " cleaning up " a Jet 13 R, rusted , greasy , and I couldn't remember how far down the shaft had to go, your video revealed it !... lots of sanding wheels , wet/dry paper …. thanks

[@anoncode4660]

Is that a brass or steel wire wheel on your bench grinder? What are you using to wash off any remaining paint stripper residue before painting?

[@markgoldberg2223]

Enjoyed the videos. Any advise on how to remove the idler pulley when it is nearly frozen in place. got it to move a bit by soaking in WD40 and whacking at it but it barely budges. Doubt my anticipated lifespan would allow for success with this method. 🙂

[@MaxGiganteum]

-- Here's a bit of practical advice... stop using WD-40!! That stuff is for shite when it comes to being a penetrant or a lubricant. If you are going to use a penetrant in an attempt to free up parts that are stuck then use an actual penetrant which WD-40 is not. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum

[@dannyhenson3141]

Excellent restoration, your lathe machining is not bad either.

[@davidtaylor4832]

I can recommend Nitromorse paint stripper. It's long established in the U.K. Wear gloves, it's powerful stuff.

[@charlenecagle7876]

I really enjoyed your video it was very informative ,what I would to ask is was there a kit that you purchased to replace the bearings and battery or did you purchase them separately and if so where did you purchase them from ????? Great Video all the same keep up the good work.

[@rcgillsympaticoca]

Nice couple of videos... thanks! Just wondering, did you intentionally leave out the segment of putting that coil spring back into the cup? 😆 I was hoping to see how that went.

[@petepeterson4540]

what appears to be missing from the drill press is the gradient scale decals from the table tilt and down stroke what a restore good job patients and attention for detail are key.

[@ScottDLR]

I have this exact same drill (bought new years ago) but it never got that bad. Just replaced the bearings in the head but need to do the motor next. It's never been super powerful but it has been a good tool.

[@NAPOTRAVELGUIDEELSALVADOR]

Scoot, please do me a favor: need the sizes of the 2 v belts. Thanks

[@garymucher9590]

Nicely done. That will be with you for many many years to come. Every shop has to have a drill press. I think I use mine nearly everyday for something. But be very careful because they can be dangerous when drilling through metals and the drill bit catches on the exiting side. Clamp things down whenever you can. Thumbs Up!

[@elsdp-4560]

THANK YOU...for sharing. Watched and very much enjoyed.

[@sparesorrepair9118]

Good to hear! Thanks for watching!

[@GeorgeEI7KO]

Excellent job. Looking forward to the vice. Just uploaded my first vice resto video today. 1930s parkinsons joiners vise.

[@sparesorrepair9118]

Cheers mate! And good work on the vice, I've subbed!

[@ddd228]

@@sparesorrepair9118 That vice is was nasty! Fixable.

[@asbestosfiber]

Probably runs at least as good as if not better than new. Lot of the time the assembly is rushed and things are not lubed and fit up like they should be. Can't believe the windings weren't burnt after getting hot enough to melt the fan that badly. Usually if you let that much smoke out of a motor you need to have it refilled.

[@kilnprabu]

sir,superb Job,few questions,do you memories the parts to be placed,or refer the video or comes through practice,i do have a very old drill press,what difficulties will i face for a beginner,i do know mechanical work,but never restored like the way you did,can you give some advise like how to start,where should be more care full,some advise would be great,thanks in advance

[@AllThingsMech]

Great work man. I have an identical drill press, a Chicago Machine Tools I-14 made by "allied international" in Taiwan (clean up vid on my channel, although not a full blown restoration). Anyone know if there is any parts support for these things? The spindle on mine is bent and I'm having a hard time locating one here in the states.

[@jusb1066]

nope, worse, many of the smaller presses had a jacobs taper1.5 , which is totally non standard and not available, with some effort i altered the taper and a JT6 chuch fitted, and was the only option or scrap, as the spindle doesnt have the separate arbor like the video, but if yours HAS the arbor, then its a morse taper spindle..a standard item

[@cortezalcantar7067]

Disculpe de que año es ese taladro? Me gustaría comprar uno así.

[@MiniLuv-1984]

Beautiful work. I noticed the drill bit has a slight wobble and I imagine that is a slight bend in the quill shaft. Mine has too. Any idea how to straighten the shaft?

[@sparesorrepair9118]

I’m going to buy a dti clock and find the bend but I think it’s in the chuck taper, looks slightly off. If it’s the taper I’ll replace, if it’s the quill I’ll probably try and heat it and straighten, not sure how well it will work though!

[@MiniLuv-1984]

@@sparesorrepair9118 I have a bench version with a really badly bend quill. Last people that had it went at the chuck with a bloody hammer and totally ruined it and bent the quill shaft. I tried to straighten the shaft with heat, but without experience in doing this, I piked far too early.

[@dRapp421]

@sparesorrepairs do you use anything to protect the unpainted parts that you polished from rusting? I have used a wire wheel to polish parts and tools before and within a week or so they have some surface rust (stored in the garage in a humid climate).

[@MaxGiganteum]

-- For any ferrous based metal parts that are left exposed to the open air (no plating or paint on the surfaces), slather white lithium grease all over exposed areas which can rust. A thin layer of white lithium will prevent rust while not interfering with machine use. Note that you may have to reapply the grease from time to time. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum

[@michaelburdick9557]

Great video! Was the inside of the column rusted as well? Wondering how you removed it?

[@trambojohn]

Hello there,i have the same drill press ,what is the power of motor (hp) . and if you can tell me what dimensions of the belts you place, thanks for the help

[@BrilliantDesignOnline]

I am absolutely certain my floor model of this same drill press came from the same factory. I purchased mine new in California. Beautiful rebuild; this will last you the rest of your life; I love mine, and you should be extra proud of the support column: super shiny! And to think, all because the fan had a melt down.

[@sparesorrepair9118]

From the comments I've seen across the videos from this series it seems this exact drill was branded as alsorts of different things, Draper, Clarke, Ryobi and lots of brands I've never heard of! Seems like a really sturdy piece of kit so I'm happy to add it to my shop :). Thanks for watching!

[@davidpeters8813]

Wow, amazing work!

[@darrengriffiths2372]

Top job sir👍😁👏👏

[@kohLeeDjocdja]

What liquid degreaser & rust remover do you use?

[@geoffreyellis9120]

I know I’m late but what vise is that you’re using?

[@keithspencersr.6806]

Outstanding work, hey and the wolf looks good too

[@sparesorrepair9118]

Cheers! I restored the wolf drill in a previous vid, took me ages to get the mirror finish!

[@ronwilken5219]

Good job. My only comment is when re setting the chuck in the quill wind the jaws of the chuck back into the body and then press the body against the block of wood. That way you don't risk distorting/damaging the scroll teeth on the chuck jaws. RonW

[@yv5grb]

You deserve a lathe! Nice job.

[@SYBEX21]

So I have a similar press that needs rebuilding, do you have a list of the grinder pads you used for the column? Thank you in advanced.

[@sparesorrepair9118]

Can’t remember the exact grades but something like this will do it fine, may have to start with a wire wheel attachment to get rid of thicker rust: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393069868282

[@t-turtle8811]

I want to see the drill sleeve and pulley assembly in detail.

[@bigmikeh5827]

Thank you for the vid. I have that same drill head and it needs bearings bad. This will help greatly.

[@sparesorrepair9118]

Really easy to change tbh, just keep an eye on where the Jesus clips fly off to 😉

[@bigmikeh5827]

SparesOrRepair got the column apart and bearings pressed out. Now for new bearings and a new external ring to keep the spindle in place.

[@bigmikeh5827]

SparesOrRepair got it part and inspected bearings. They are in good shape... but a lot of play in the column. That is going to be a challenge to “tighten “ it up. Over .005 play in main column

[@СергейЛеньков-з5в]

Where did axial beats come from? Curved chuck, curved drill or axis?

[@sparesorrepair9118]

I think it's the chuck taper, need to get a dti clock and check it out

[@chrisstephens6673]

I noticed your calipers are a spot off zero, I have a video on resetting (the easy way) certain types of Mitutoyo calipers which might help.

[@JgHaverty]

Ah metrology is a fun thing lol

[@toptechnology-diy5662]

There is a lot of wobble it’s of the bit or the chuck ?

[@sparesorrepair9118]

It was the Chuck, I put too much pressure on the arbor when I pressed it into the Chuck so it was offset, it’s been aligned properly since and runs like a dream 👍

[@LivingstonBrothersWoodcraft]

Well done, sir. I loved the ghetto lathe! LOL! I have enjoyed restoring some old Delta equipment in the recent past. Great hobby!

[@graypistachio4141]

Great vid! What grids did you use on the column?

[@graypistachio4141]

Grit's...

[@ccccen]

very very good work.

[@markharris5771]

I was really looking forward to this video and you didn’t disappoint. It’s brilliant watching you work as nothing is rushed and everything is done purposefully. Not like myself where I lose something every couple of seconds. That was a great idea with the cable ties and the spring from hell, I'll remember that one. When you were building up the weld on the pulley were you using flux core or wire with gas please? If it was the latter I’m presuming your welder can also use stick, may I ask why you chose not to? Doesn’t stick have more choice for cast metals? I’m still quite new to welding and I’m full of questions (59 years old before I touched a welder). So none of this is criticism but pure curiosity. A superb video as well as a great restoration, thank you very much for posting it.

[@sparesorrepair9118]

Mark Harris I lose stuff constantly mate, just edit those bits out! No one wants to sit and watch me looking for the screwdriver I just put down for ten minutes 😂 with the welding I used argon with standard wire. I don’t currently have a stick welder, but even if I had I would have used mig for this kind of repair, once the initial weld is in place across the cast piece you’re just layering up across it, using stick would take ages to do this kind of repair! I find as long as you heat cast up first it welds ok with mig, sometimes it’s hard to get a nice weld pool going due to all the impurities in cheap castings though. I’m going to upgrade my welding set up in the new year, got my eye on a nice new tig that can handle aluminium too. Want to build a bar in my back yard from metal and wood so need a better set up than I currently have! Cheers for watching mate!

[@markharris5771]

SparesOrRepair Thank you very much for the information regarding the welding, it’s really appreciated and informative. I was looking at some MIG, TIG, MMA welders when I bought mine, I decided to keep things simple to begin with but I have so much to learn. Every wild and I learn something new, which I like. You’ll have to do some videos of your bar when you build it. Thanks again.

[@busman2000]

Looks like the spindle shaft might be bent, that drill bit was eccentric ?

[@Kami8705]

I was going to mention, it looks like alot of play. Either the shaft is bent or the chuck isnt set in properly. It all depends on what he uses it for though, its plenty accurate for basic stuff to go with the ghetto lathe

[@이의석-m9t]

👍💯🫡🍧🍦🧋🪷💐🇰🇷감사합니다.좋은 영상.근로.수고.보람.행복.인생의 아름다운 한면.

[@bstiger6482]

You need to bolt down the vise and grinder, etc, as that is un-safe for use. Like the home-made lathe almost tipped over.

[@casamulberry]

I don’t think you are doing this right, from my experiences of watching other similar videos (mainly from Far East) I have a couple of pointers for you. You are supposed to be casually walking by a load of rubbish or a foul smelling river when you accidently find a corroded piece of equipment. You then drag this back in a wheelbarrow pulled behind a moped and dump it on your terrace/patio. You put flip flops on and work on the floor. You don’t seem to have any chickens or passing vehicles making a noise in the background. You’re using far too many tools, one rusty claw hammer, a broken screwdriver, a piece of rebar and a brick should be plenty. You’re not handling everything as if its brain surgery. You keep letting people know what liquids/chemicals you’re using, this just wastes time making the video longer than it need be. But apart from all that I think it is one of the best renovation channels around, keep up the good work.

[@sparesorrepair9118]

Casa Piqui Dammit! I wondered what I was doing wrong, hold my beer 🍺

[@gregsharp8601]

Hilarious Casa! I wish I could give your comment two thumbs up!

[@jt9498]

@George Robartes LOL! Isn't that the truth, eh! :)

[@jt9498]

LOL! That always amazes me, too, how they just "come across" those "old" pieces of equipment! Well said, Casa Piqui. :)

[@charlescarabott7692]

My restoration would include chickens and passing vehicles in the background

[@1jtolvey]

GREAT SERIES !!!

[@maoraharoni5608]

Where did u get the quill gasket ?

[@johnmay371]

Great job!

[@Twin_Flyer]

Well done, that press will last a long time now! Not too sure about that vise though, OMG so many holes in it!

[@sparesorrepair9118]

The vice will look like new when I’ve finished with it 😉! Thanks for watching!

[@jusb1066]

@@sparesorrepair9118 there comes a point when it would be easier to machine a new drill press vice out of purely weld filler...lol

[@prabhupillai9386]

What a great work.. Grandma became daughter.. 👌👌

[@thepotterer3726]

I've got a 6" bench grinder with a wire wheel at one end and it was used about 95% of the time for that type of work, I've not got another with Scotchbrite wheels fitted and that is used about 95% of the time for that type work - the wire wheel is relegated to those few occasions when you really need something aggressive.

[@sparesorrepair9118]

I've bought some scotchbrite wheels but they didn't come with the correct inserts for my grinder, going to make some and then give them a blast. I do like having a wire wheel for removing paint though, so much quicker than paint stripper!

[@coffeemonster6328]

Great video! Now bolt that vice to that workbench!!!

[@andredupuis8497]

Beautyfull job thanks

[@briansworkshop01]

Fantastic job looks great Winer Winer chicken dinner thanks for sharing your time and skill 🍺🍺👍👍👍👍👍

[@MiniLuv-1984]

just being pedantic Brian, winner winner, chicken dinner or maybe winer, winer chicken diner, but not mixed metaphors. :) He's good though isn't he?

[@glennmoreland6457]

You've got some runout on that drill... Check it with a DTI clock...🇬🇧👍

[@sparesorrepair9118]

I don’t have one atm, think it’s the taper on the chuck though. I’ll keep an eye out for a cheap used one on eBay!

[@glennmoreland6457]

@@sparesorrepair9118 You'll need two... One to check quill runout and the other to check chuck runout... Use both simultaneously...🇬🇧👍

[@hamkimj65]

Might just be a bent drill bit..

[@glennmoreland6457]

@@hamkimj65 Hence why I said he needs TWO dial test indicators...🇬🇧👍

[@MrFireman164]

Beautiful work sir !

[@scotty5340]

Great Job!!

[@rogergroover4971]

Very nicely done! looks Great!

[@joseppallarescendros3219]

hi la cinta metrica de la manija del taladro que señala la profundidad me ha parecido que esta al reves saludos desde costa dorada CAT josep

[@njbaquatics4827]

I’ve got this exact drill press waiting to be restored but unfortunately half of the cast-iron foot on mine is missing it’s cracked in half so I’m currently searching for a replacement for that if anyone has one please let me now great job by the way keep the content coming 👍

[@nickslayer4368]

Is the drill press an old chevron or rexon?

[@danielcummings8226]

Bent drill?

[@timsmith1589]

Nice job bro, very cool piece.

[@sparesorrepair9118]

Thanks!

[@alinasaeed8017]

What’s the black spot (sticker) in the lid for, what was it made of?

[@sparesorrepair9118]

It's a felt pad, doesn't actually do anything as the case is nowhere near touching the pulley, but it came off originally so I cleaned it and replaced :)