RV Electrical System Solar and Lithium Battery Upgrade - Start-to-Finish Guide

[@EXPLORISTlife]

❗❗ *IF YOU WANT A SYSTEM LIKE THIS:* ❗❗ *Here is the core kit:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/30a-oem-rv-retrofit-2000w-inverter-200-1000ah-battery-bank-dc-dc-charger-wiring-diagram-kit/ *Also available with a 3kVA Inverter:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/30a-oem-rv-upgrade-400-1200ah-battery-bank-multiplus-3k-12-orion-12-12-30-wiring-diagram-kit/ *And then you can add whatever solar you like/need from these options (12V battery bank options):* shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/ Or... *Here is the EXACT setup we showed in this video:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/travel-trailer-electrical-upgrade-270ah-battery-multiplus-2k-12v-800w-solar-orion-12-12-30/ *GET $50 OFF PER BATTLE BORN BATTERY WITH CODE explorist AT CHECKOUT:* battlebornbatteries.com/shop/brands/battle-born-batteries/?afmc=explorist_bb67

[@bryansbusadventure4783]

I purchased all this before I found your site Sad but that is reality The reason I want to know about C rates is as I am a DYI person and want you to know build my own batteries Of course cost is a huge factor in this choice

[@mikethomsen5096]

can i do a 3000 w inverter instead of a 2000w for this system

[@netguyaz]

The link is broken?

[@Ulyssez79]

@EXPLORISTlife Is the converter never used again after install? Also should the charging wire to the 7 pin be disconnected after the dc to dc install?

[@andrewhofmann5453]

I dont think you guys know how much we have been waiting for an RV related video that works for us all! This is great. Thanks!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey, @andrewhofmann5453! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀

[@mikesnifferpippets3733]

Agreed! I have learned so much by watching just a few videos… I feel like such a nerd 😂

[@1gesteban]

Why is solar panel wiring such a "thinner" gauge? Do they eventually need to be "thicker" with the more solar panels in use?

[@sbramel93]

@@1gestebanthe higher the voltage the thinner the wiring you can get by with because you size the wire by amps

[@Swerly01]

I really hope you're on the payroll and get shares of Victron. You guys do an amazing job of explaining everything.

[@betterwithrum]

Hey thank you for putting this video together! It is the most comprehensive video I've seen on going from zero to fully decked out. I have to figure out how I'm going to run power to the Multpass 2 and back to the fuse panel, but one problem at a time!

[@chrisjohnson4110]

I could watch this stuff all day. Is it uncommon that I am contemplating a career change, so I can do cool stuff like this all the time? I've done a lithium battery and the 712 with inverter and new converter in my little TT so far, solely from the confidence and complete explanations of each step that you provide. Thank you Nate and Steph!

[@briandumont7619]

This video is great! I'm almost done retrofitting my daughters 30 amp OEM system and this helped fill in some final pieces. Also, your wiring kits are fantastic. I have sourced most of my upgrade through you with excellent shipping times and accuracy. Great job!

[@ScottyDaum-o4x]

Have watched tons of your videos, and they are fantastic. Still have to purchase a few items and then finally get on with installing it all. Thank you for being so generous with your tech know how. You guys are great!!!!

[@glenludwig5135]

My God. Best video ever on changing to Solar. I wish you would do that same setup to a 48 volt system. Thanks

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Glad it was helpful! A 48V system would not be beneficial in this setup. It's too small.

[@ghostpepperrides4805]

Outstanding. As a retired electrical/Mechanical contractor I understand most of this. The equipment is new to me. Thank you. I’m subscribed.

[@housesOTR]

I upgraded my Imagine 17MKE to 300 Ah of lithium, 3000 watt inverter, two solar chargers. Works very well. 370 watts on the roof and 200-400 watts portable. Great video. Glad to see you both in it.

[@richardroberts1090]

These video's and wiring kit packages are just plain Awsome Nat and his crew have taken so much guess work out of the processes and planning.

[@ascenttev6022]

Stephanie has truly turned out to be an A+++ PRODIGY. Your tutorials has always been helpful, we appreciate your input.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey, @ascenttev6022! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀

[@scottd143]

What a great video. Your technical knowledge and explanations are priceless. Also your kits are easy to use for us DIYers.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey, @scottd143! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀

[@paulmalone7323]

This was very helpful. Just purchased a Brinkley Z 2900 and will source one of your kits after we get home after our month long trip in August. You folks make it look so easy.

[@krystalmuff8773]

You guys are so great! I just watched my first video from you guys and you made everything seems so easy that you went step-by-step. I really do appreciate the time you’re taking to do this. I bought my first fifth wheel open Road camper a couple weeks ago and I’m just learning everything I can’t wait to see more of your videos

[@GirdHerd]

Another outstanding "how to" video. I purchased and followed your detailed diagram for a 3000w system a few years ago and the system is still working great. If I was doing an install today, I would definitely buy all of the necessary install kits from you to make sourcing easier. Keep up the great work.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey, @19ken49! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀

[@guttermastersplus5613]

Finally someone that explains the thing the right way and the simple way highly intelligent good video

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey @guttermastersplus5613, Thanks so much! Cheers!

[@richardmckinley7358]

Incredible video! First video I’ve ever seen of an installation with all the components. Thank you so very much.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Glad you liked it! Cheers!

[@tomwilliam5118]

You guys do a top-notch job. So clean so detailed is unbelievable

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey @tomwilliam5118, Thanks so much! Cheers!

[@JesseHires]

I have an RV trailer that is nearly identical to the one in your video. Thanks for this.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Our pleasure! Thanks for watching!

[@jasonb9913]

I used Anderson connectors on my truck for the DC-DC charger I have, its great. So great, that I cut the power cord to my Viair compressor and put an Anderson connector in the middle of that. Now I can power it from the rear bumper or connect the original clamps to battery up front.

[@billharrington172]

Great Idea!

[@jameskelly143]

I'm trying to convert a camper trailer to a tiny home after losing my mother. Trying to move forward. Your solar information it is helpful

[@Chantheman235]

In the process of adding a Victron DC to DC charger in my trailer as well. Thank you for the excellent tutorials, they have been extremely helpful!

[@donclark4063]

What a great resource. You guys are so clear and concise with your tutorials. Excellent videos. Bravo!

[@johnplyler7054]

The biggest problem for me is not the install, but the firmware updates. I don't design websites, but I think some major improvements could be made. I remember one site where you had to read down to the very bottom of the page and then click on this one word that was not even marked as access to the update! Thanks for another nice Sunday morning video!

[@billharrington172]

BTW, I purchased the wiring diagram for this install an it has been super helpful. Well done!

[@12v_obsession92]

Hey Nate, good install. A few things to consider here: The anderson connector on the truck could have benefited from a springback protected cover with grommets like the one supplied from trailer vision, likewise the anderson on the RV should have a cable sheath and rubber cover. The terminals will corrode and fill with water/dust in no time. For monitoring the the Cerbo GX would have been a great compliment to the system. Hope it doesn't get too warm down there under load. Anyway keep up the good work mate👍

[@tonyrardon3227]

I used the Trailer Vision to cover up my SB50 connector on the truck and wrapped all wires in a cable sheathing to give it a nice clean look and protect the wires.

[@FulltimingBrinkley3950]

Thanks!

[@theghostlyorb]

You made this look so easy! DC-DC charging is on my list eventually and I can't believe how simple you made it out to be!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks! Yeah, it's easy to overthink that charging leg of the system. Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!

[@berthaduniverse]

Nate, great work. One kinda significant point, the solar panel roof anchors were not installed properly. Ideally the surface between the roof and bracket should have been pre-caulked and then anchored (using something like Sikaflex or Lexel), then lap-sealed around all 4 sides and holes. The way it was done here, capillary action will draw water under the back of the plate on the one uncaulked side, and allow a leak or backerboard to rot.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks for watching! The tape we used is specifically designed to form a waterproof gasket. I know this may not be enough for everybody (much like everthing I show on this channel 🤣), and if that's you, feel free to dicor/seal where/however you like.

[@berthaduniverse]

@@EXPLORISTlife sorry, didn't see the tape, must have missed it. I agree, a Bituthene like product can work well in a "smoothish" surface.

[@chachi5975]

For those that don't have a solid roof on their travel trailer, using channel strut into the crossbars of the roof make a secure mounting bracket for solar panels. If your travel trailer is an ultra lite and didn't come with a ladder attached, it's probably too thin to simply screw into and hold the panels.

[@cpwatching5647]

Excellent video for the 30A trailer folks like me. Appreciate the details...well done. I'm thinking about a game changer prep as I build my system. Thanks!! Take care.

[@mattcruz5915]

These videos are amazing and make me think I could DIY this (with no electrical experience). I'm going to let a professional do the first install, but I look forward to the day where I will DIY my next camper electrical.

[@Justthe2ofUs843]

As an installer, I approve this video. Well done. 👍👍

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

[@OnyxRayven1]

Thanks!

[@dtburrows]

Most helpful video I've seen. Thank you

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Glad it was helpful!

[@sethandersson7021]

I really could've used this a year and a half ago! 😂 Thanks for all the great advice!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

[@John-eq8cu]

A pretty good installation. I did a similar one in my camper, but i used the 2kW Aims inverter/charger. With that system, the AC electrical is limited to 2kW, so I had to wire the inverter loads on a sub-panel, and wire the high-power circuits (AC and HotWater) directly to shore power. But the nice thing about the Victron Multiplus is that you don't need to do that, as the "hybrid inverter" will take extra power and 'mix' it with the battery power, all the way up to 30 amps. If I were to do it again, i'd use the Victron.

[@erickessler6094]

Nate & Steph, It was so nice to see the beautiful job you did on Kurt & Laurie's 22MLE! OMG, I say, because my wife & I, also retired (and my college buddy Murf & Nancy) have 22MLE's as well! 😎 Mine 2023 came with a charge controller & Solar on roof, but we want "MORE POWER" lol. Maybe 3 or 4 panels? All I have done so far is upgraded to a 12v 230Ah LiTime battery. 1. I've watched your 12v vs 24v discussion and wondered if building the same system you did for Kurt & Laurie... but with a 24V Battery & System would have good advantages? 2. Also I love that Victron Power Assist feature, but could I use that with my lil 1600w (2000w surge) inverter generator to create enough power to run Air Conditioning? 3. Where are you & your shop located? Cheers, Eric

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks! 1: There is no reason to do this system as 24V. 2: Probably. Especially if you've got a soft-start on the AC. If you want a guarentee that the AC will work; you'll want the next size up on the Multiplus (3k) w/ a little bigger battery bank (400Ah minimum). 3: Northwest Colorado. We ship worldwide, though, and ship for free on orders over $200 within the contiguous USA.

[@erickessler6094]

​@EXPLORISTlife Thank you for your reply. If I understand correctly, the combo of my battery bank (with a 2nd 230Ah battery) and my 1600W Generator (and magic of the Victron "Power Assist") WILL power my Soft Start AC. But best if the Inverter-Charger were 3000 vice 2000. With 3000W capability, am I at risk of the stock Battery wires overheating? I noticed your battery relocation kit used much heavier wire to the stock batery box location. Cheers, Eric

[@bobwojcik6196]

A great video. Your explanation really helps me better understand the whole process. Currently have a Sprinter Van I purchased used that has a rather sketchy system and know it’s going to need updating.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

[@the_searchers]

Thanks guys. I really like the way you break it down

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey @the_searchers, Thanks so much! Cheers!

[@camperbum]

Very good and cool how you showed what it takes to have a good system. Thanks.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks so much for watching! Cheers!

[@richardcranium8408]

A well timed video. I’m doing an install for my boat.

[@michaelparks3106]

I have pretty much the same system on my Grand Design 2670MK, but since I have a 50amp system I went with the MultiPlus II. I did the wiring is a way that I think was a little easier, required less cable so it was less expensive, and has fewer connectors so there are less points of failure. For the shore power, instead of running a cable from the stock shore power line at the fuse box to the MultiPlus, I just disconnected the shore power wire from the fuse box, unscrewed the socket from the outside wall and pulled the whole thing out. I then drilled a hole (I think it was 2") and screwed the connector to the wall next to the storage compartment where the MultiPlus was, the stock wire was more than long enough to reach it directly. So I only needed one Romex 6/4 cable to go back to the fuse box for the 110v line, not two. For the 12v coach battery same idea, instead of running "battery relocation" wires from the new battery to the old battery location, i just rerouted the stock factory wires direct to the new battery. Once you drop the belly pan, pulling the wires from the old location to the new is very simple, and since the battery in the storage compartment is closer to the fuse box than the old one was, the wires are more than long enough. I've always felt that the less wires and connectors needed to get the job done, the better. Other than that, great video.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Neato! There are 100 different ways to do this stuff and I'm glad you found a way that works for your specific application. What you described won't work for most people as the wire lengths are often not long enough to accomplish that, and if somebody has Jack's, slides, or generators, running the factory 12v wiring to the lynx distributor will not deliver enough power to run as that factory wiring is only big enough to run the converter and not necessarily those larger oem items. But yeah, glad you found what works for your specific application. They way I showed will work for 99% of applications, which is more what I'm interested it. But other than that, good comment.

[@carykern6079]

Thank you for awesome videos and explanations. FYI, using Tabasco Sause, or Taco Bell "Fire Sause" works excellent at cleaning electrical cord prongs, old military trick that works awesome on copper or brass due to low pH.

[@camustang1966]

Have you looked at the new flexible solar panels from Bouge RV (CIGS)? Are they practical for RV roof installation and usage? This was a great video. Probably the most comprehensive, yet snappy videos explaining this whole process. Well done. I have a fifth wheel, but I could adapt this to my situation very easily. Thank you!

[@EBKRV412]

Another awesome detailed video guys! What a great install this is I'm sure the owners are very happy. Do you happen to have a link to the blind bolt kit you used to attached the ground from the lynx dist to the frame?

[@mausie1967]

Love your videos. Not just this one but all of them

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey, @mausie1967! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀

[@rudivandoornegat2371]

This will be another classic video of the Explorist life channel. In the video on Victron Energy KZbin channel titled Victron VW Van Electrics Install - Episode 3 Mains Electricity at 4:45 min they put a 3D printed protection cap for the Lynx system. Maybe EL could sell these too in the future for people that are interested?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Ah, nice! Good idea!

[@jjsantos3292]

Great work! Absolutely love the way these videos are put together, thank you!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thank you very much!

[@craigquann]

That's an awesome setup.

[@Mark_Lawler]

Another great how-to video!!! Thanks!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Glad you enjoyed it! Cheers!

[@cpwatching5647]

Excellent video. Thank you.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey @cpwatching5647, Thanks so much! Cheers!

[@timf6916]

Good job. You guys are doing a fantastic work.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thank you so much 😀

[@kroy106]

I'm more confused now than ever...... Not your fault, just more to it than I imagined, but I will do it myself 😉

[@RD27600]

Fantastic video!!! Shows me that I can do this. For a follow on video I'd love to see the addition of a generator and transfer switch like you'd have in a Class A.

[@bobfarrell6510]

Awesome installation

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks! 🙂🙌

[@rocket1point0]

I've always enjoyed your videos and so happy to see you've expanded to more videos related to trailer conversions vice building a system from scratch. This is outstanding! I had some concerns / questions on this one: 1. What is driving such large awg cables for chassis grounding (e.g. 2/0 and 2 awg)? With the exception of marine applications, I thought 8 awg was called for at a minimum (unless, of course, you are using the chassis as the negative side of power distribution). 2. I would caution using the trailer's aluminum wall and compartment framing as a chassis ground source. There could be instances when these are not grounded to the chassis frame. I would recommend running this under the trailer to the main trailer frame. 3. How was the emergency brake disconnect accounted for? In the completed configuration, it appears that power to the emergency disconnect would not be present if the main battery disconnect was turned to the off position. Normally, the emergency brake disconnect switch is wired directly to the positive terminal of the battery (or in my trailer's case, to the unswitched side of the battery disconnect). Also, this is usually an unfused connection. Thanks again for such a great and informative video!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

1: ABYC states that the chassis ground shall be no smaller than 1 size smaller than the largest wire in the system. 2: Choose the most available and solidly attached piece of metal available to you in your installation so that the most metal on the van is connected to the battery negative. More often than not; the camper frame is electrically and physically connected to the trailer frame. 3: The electrical system 'new' main disconnect switch should remain on any time the camper is not in storage or under maintenance so that all of the factory systems work properly.

[@rjenkins133]

I am a bit nervous with putting the emergency brakes on the other side of the main disconnect switch. If you forget to turn on the main switch you will be travelling without emergency brakes. I would probably put the brakes on an unswitched branch of the battery bus. I am also a bit nervous about not using a fuse on the emergency brakes. A shorted wire on a large battery - whether lead acid or lithium can cause a fire. When everything is mounted on the metal frame of the trailer - the fire is probably less likely - but if the battery is inside and the wiring is bundled with other wires and through walls, etc. then I think a fire is more likely. I would fuse the the unswitched branch with fuse sized to operate the emergency brakes.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

@rjenkins133 That's fine, and you can do what you want, but the master disconnect is for storage only. There are certain things you need to 'remember' when towing a camper. If you 'forget' to plug in your 7 pin connector, you will also be without trailer brakes.

[@mikemcguire5859]

Nate. Great DIY/PRO videos. My question is, why not use the tined lugs vice regular copper lugs and get away from any corrosion on lugs and bare copper bus bars. Thanks for sharing all your great content.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

All of the wire in the camper is un-tinned copper. I suspect that the ceiling and floor will rot away before our un-tinned wires need to be replaced due to corrosion. Tinned lugs are really only needed in marine/salty envrionments.

[@heashepard23]

I have a 2019 sprinter 170 extended with 60K miles and many options including 10 inch display and cameras all around. Following your instructions, I added a 500 watt inverter (only about a 30amp draw) to position 6 in the tray using 2awg wire. Connecting to the X145 term #1 I ran a wire to a 200 amp isolator so that the inverter could only operate when the engine was running. This was for emergency purposes if my rerar 3500 watt inverter connected to 800ah lithium battery bank ever crapped out. After putting everything back the engine started right away. took it for a test drive and everything seemed to work as intended, BUT after driving 70 miles to camp on a friends mountain property ---the chassis battery was below 12 volts and it would not start I fact the entire MB side of the house was blacked out--NO LIGHTS ete Borrowing a charger and a long extension cord I was able to get the battery to 12.9 volts and restarted the van in the morning. It immediately went into fast idle mode (an option I did not select when I purchased the van) and this lasted about 10 minutes before slowing to 800 rpms. Driving it out of the mountains, there was a check engine light and glow plug light as well as a battery warning message --also none of the lane keeping or adaptive speed control would work. After replacing the battery and charging it overnight, all functions returned. It has been to the dealer twice. At their suggestion, I disconnected the inverter from the tray. BUT it still does not appear that the alternator is charging the battery.. I returned from a 4500 mile trip camping around the Great Lakes last month. The van ran like a champ averaging 20mpg and never having an issue starting. Do you have any idea what could have gone so wrong? The dealer's head Sprinter Tech said since 2019 the alternator and entire electrical system is mighty touchy. He suggested if I would like to again connect into the OEM electrical system to do so at the battery.

[@184conversion]

Mennn, your videos are always very helpful Thanks...👍👍👍

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :)

[@dancanrv2]

GREAT job/video ... mentioning the approximate price of components and cables/parts could be very useful !!! cheers

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Better than that, I shared where to find the EXACT price in the pinned comment.

[@sunbtanman7354]

You guys are great awesome video. Now I have to dissect what I need out of it. LOL

[@RVingwithG]

😮😊just another GREAT VIDEO by Nate @ExploristLife Thanks buddy 😊

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey, @RVingwithG! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀

[@hexd2g]

Great video! Can't wait to follow your guide for my Grand Design Imagine. Did you reinforce the wall to install all the Victron components? Would the Victron Multiplus 3000 be enough to power the AC and would it have any heat issues in the storage bay? Thank you!

[@TumbleweedRvLife]

Another great video - Thank you! 💜💚❤👍

[@shadowfire77]

Great video as usual. Still curious about the heat anticipation and how the stress test went out with the multiplus mounted horizontally.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

We had no overheating alarms during our testing.

[@toniawilkins-schafer8130]

Love your videos. Would you have an update as to how the Multiplus performed mounted on its side? I would like to get the Mutiplus 2x 120 but I have an older model RV and the height in my bays are under 23 inch in height. I thought of doing a side mount.

[@SteveHyams]

I have completed my splice and connection to the inverter with the existing converter breaker off, everything works great. I am wondering if I can just remove the existing converter because it will provide a perfect location for the splice box. Can I just remove it or is there more to it?

[@szerszynski]

First let me say this is a first class video. Great job! Two things...when you connected to the chassis for ground, was that aluminum? I'd be concerned about corrosion at that connection because of the dissimilar metals. While both copper and aluminum both conduct well, they don't play nice together. Second, have you considered adding a soft starter to the A/C unit? That may make it to where it could run on the battery system.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

The chassis ground isn’t carrying any kind of current under normal circumstances so that isn’t much of a concern for me. If it is for you, you could put some dielectric grease on the connection as you wish when you get to that step of your install A soft start would indeed give the air conditioner a better chance of firing up, but it would still really be pushing the limits of the equipment.

[@bug512]

Thank you, your builds and videos are top notch. My question is why are the battery disconnects on the positive side? On Battle Born’s website it says “A battery disconnect switch can be installed on the negative or positive leads of a battery and it will effectively disconnect the whole circuit. However, installing the switch on the negative lead adds additional safety.” In years past when I worked on cars, RV’s and such the disconnect was always on the negative. Maybe you can comment.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

I've actually never seen a switch on the negative side in-person on an actual build. I prefer the switch being on the positive side because it will always cut off power without question. A switch on the negative leaves the positive wire powered which in my mind seems dangerous; but I also know it is another fairly widely common approach.

[@awall_wants2no]

Love your videos. Been waiting for this one. How come you grounded the solar charge controller to the inverter/charger? as oppose to doubling up on the ground stud on the lynx distributor? Can you do this with any inverter? I have used your videos to upgrade my rv's lead acid batteries with 2 100 amp hour battleborn batteries, the lynx distributor, and I am currently adding the victron MPPT Charger controller. I did find your videos after i upgrade my oem WFCO converter/charger for one that has a lithium battery switch and I am keeping my existing Xantrax 2000 Inverter. I am not sure if i can/should ground the solar charge controller to my Xantrax 2000 Inverter or what the alternative would be. Thanks for all these videos! i just let them play all day while I am at work!

[@KJC63]

So helpful... excellent video.!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

So glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!

[@KampingKids]

That is awesome! I’ll be doing something similar for my rig.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

[@daviscrt]

Great information. Thanks Don

[@richardwolf6269]

Could you do this with a solar generator instead greatly simplifying the setup?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

It wouldn’t be as powerful nor have the quality of components which would result in do-overs over time. What we did was a permanent solution.

[@andrewk1916]

@Explorist Life Team - Awesome video for us TT DIYers! Thank you for creating these videos and offering the equipment and kits via your store. As many others have previusly said, your work and videos coupled with your store makes sourcing and installing for us DIYers easy, safe and uncomplicated! You pointed out on this install that this particular system was too undersized (meaning battery bank) to power the AC compressor. But could a samll 300amp hour(ish) system power a 15K AC compressor if the AC has a soft-start OR a 13.5K AC with a soft start? My assumption is "Yes" but I'm hoping you can give a quick clarification. Thank you again for the great work!

[@FarmerCal]

Great video. If the RV had an onboard generator, how would you accommodate that with the equipment you have used in the video?

[@nekrojester6168]

Very helpful. Thanks for all these videos yas do guys. ;)

[@paimormusicstudio6423]

Great video, i always enjoy your detailed explanations. What am i missing because I am currently using an all in one EG4 3kw invertor, with a EG4 48v battery. Then all i had to do was run the AC output from the EG4 invertor to the RV shore input..done, very simple installation. The solar panels just plug into the EG4 and charge the EG4 battery, and i can charge the house batteries as well. I use my house rv batteries for emergencies. And the EG4 also has an AC input for a generator to charge the batteries quickly. however i am in a permanent location so perhaps that is different.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

[@Jimmy_Jim_Jim_1234]

Great video thanks. One question... Why make the 12Volt connection in the old battery box instead of bringing it inside and eliminating the old box?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Great question! When we were deciding how to design these systems, a main focus was to make it so these videos are repeatable by nearly everybody wanting to upgrade their camper regardless of make/model of camper. Most campers on the road have a dozen or so various wires connected to the OEM battery; which would not be feasible to move inside; so we are just bringing power to the OEM battery for those following along who have a bunch of connections at the battery (see the last full install in a truck camper for an example of an OEM battery with a LOT of connections/wires.)

[@chachi5975]

​@@EXPLORISTlifeyep, and there's usually some circuit breakers located right there on the tongue, the tongue jack and slides are usually on separate breakers up there.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Yeah, the OEM wiring up under the tongue was a bit of a mess and I didn't quite understand where everything was going; but ultimately, we didn't need to spend any time figuring any of that out since it was working just fine from the factory and we just needed to supply power to all of those pre-existing circuits; regardless of what they were going to.

[@chachi5975]

​@@EXPLORISTlifeyeah I was wondering how you were going to tackle that since every rig is different. I was able to move mine inside to a busbar next to my battery bank. Unfortunately I built mine before the lynx distributor was available.

[@Jimmy_Jim_Jim_1234]

@@EXPLORISTlife Great, thanks for the explanation.

[@tonyabdalla]

Love your videos Nate and Team EXPLORISTlife! I've noticed you prefer all copper lugs over tinned copper lugs. When it comes to long-term corrosion protection, do you see any added benefit to tinned copper lugs? Thanks and keep the great vids coming!!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

So, all of the wiring in a camper is un-tinned copper, so to me, the added expense of making the wiring last longer than the factory wiring is not necessary. I'd suspect the frame and roof of the camper will rot long before the wires corrode to the point of needing replacement.

[@tonyabdalla]

@@EXPLORISTlife Makes sense. Thanks for the reply!

[@Sylvan_dB]

Tinned copper is important for marine or similar harsh environments, not nearly as important for this application. In the old days with lead-acid batteries the terminals attached to those batteries needed to be tinned because acid. LiFePO4 don't have that problem. (thank goodness!)

[@anthonygonzalez8953]

Any chance you will be doing a 50A OEM upgrade...I know it may be similar but with a few unique differences...this would be a great future video.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Yep! Week and a half and it'll be published.

[@anthonyrettig8617]

Great video!

[@bobgordon5447]

Enjoyed your videos

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Glad you like them!

[@maxxonetwo3]

Can I bring my camper to you ? Depending on how far you are. You can install this system for me. Thank you again for a great clear speaking video. Lake George,NY

[@EXPLORISTlife]

We have installers you can take your camper to: explorist.life/find-a-certified-installer/

[@billharrington172]

Hi Nate, great info and so well presented - as always! One question, you've mentioned stress testing your installations but I've looked around and can't find any information on how you do that. Any suggestions?

[@jonrockefeller6068]

What are those video lights you are using for task lights? They look nice, compact and easy to use. Thanks for sharing! Hope you are enjoying those new headlamps.

[@erickessler6094]

Nate & Steph, Wow, this is my 3rd time watching this video! Ha-ha 🤪 I see you used a Victron MPPT 150|60 Tr charge controller (not sure what the Tr means?). I'm sure all solar panels are different, but my Furrion panel is 165W with that Voc spec at 20.4 (so if my goal were 4 panels, then ... "I think, if I'm beginning to learn," all I need is 4 × 20.4Voc = 81.6 . Like a Victon 100|30 or 100|50 ??? Does this mean your friends 22MLE have panels with high power Voc specs that drove the 150|60 Tr Charge Controller? 🤔 Cheers & thank you, Eric

[@michaelscheele6377]

Great video

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@rgknowlton1]

Are you sure 6 AWG is the appropriate size for the DC-DC Charger? The Victron install instructions say to use 16mm2 (~6 AWG) for circuit length up to 10m; however, this seems to be the length of the positive conductor only in the illustration. With a truck and trailer that long, the entire circuit length (positive and negative conductors from the starter battery all the way to the DC Charger) probably far exceeds that 10 meter length. That caused significant voltage drop for me and I didn't get full output from the DC Charger until I upsized to 2 AWG wire and shortened the circuit length. I have a discussion on the Victron Community Forum about this.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Indeed I am sure 6ga is the proper size. In fact, I made a video about a year ago about how wire size and voltage drop affects chargers: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Zqmyp3yEfZmngdU

[@rgknowlton1]

@EXPLORISTlife Thanks for the link. Because the smart alternator in my 2017 Tacoma is goofy (controlled completely by the ECM and never outputs more than about 13.5v), the 6% voltage drop I was experiencing through the 6 AWG wire over a total circuit length of 60 feet was enough to complicate the Engine Shutdown Detection settings. By the time I got the Shutdown Voltage set low enough to account for the 6% voltage drop (and the fact that the Tacoma ECM regularly turns the alternator voltage output down to

[@EXPLORISTlife]

An ignition wire to the 'h' pin of Orion is sorta the stop-gap for situations like that.

[@sylvainbeaumont7703]

Bravo !!! Great video

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thank you very much!

[@sylvainbeaumont7703]

@@EXPLORISTlife I'd like to ask you a question about connecting the inverter directly into the breaker box of my RV

[@EXPLORISTlife]

You should do that then. 🤷😂

[@sylvainbeaumont7703]

@@EXPLORISTlife OK ! 🙂 If i turnoff the converter breaker in my Rv, the lights an the fan of furnase will continue ti work ? (excuse my english, i comme from Québec and i speak french! sory

[@EXPLORISTlife]

If you follow the instructions in this video, all of your pre-existing components will still work as designed.

[@DCanavan-Imagine2600RB]

Fantastic video broken down into easily explained and understood segments! When you discussed mounting the Multiplus horizontally, you mentioned stress testing they system when you finished the install. What were the results of the stress test and any heat issues with the Multiplus? As with the Imagine you worked on, I have the same issue with the lack of vertical height sufficient to install the Multiplus vertically. Also, did you make any note or measurements regarding the fan volume of the Multiplus while in use? Would it be feasible from a noise and heat standpoint to install the whole set up on the opposite side of the bulkhead underneath the bed?

[@canada59worldwide31]

Great videos

[@bobabooie6389]

Just subscribed 👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@robertkelleher1850]

This is amazing. I've watched so many videos on Victron's own channel and come away more confused every time. Question: If the negative side of the Lynx is grounded, then why is the additional ground wire from solar to multi required?

[@meececa]

Thanks, I subbed after watching 😊. This is the first video I’ve seen that you’ve made. Would this set up also accommodate a small generator?

[@meececa]

Hmm, just realized, yes it would because the generator would connect to the shore power.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Exactly!

[@wardg.5559]

What an awesome video. I'm just lost with my inverter/charger on my camper.. it's plugged into an outlet? I'm assuming to power to 110v outlets?

[@LanternHillProductions]

Great video, love the attention to detail. Regarding the Anderson connector at the rear, it appears to always be hot. It that by design?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

They always have voltage to them, yes.

[@LanternHillProductions]

@@EXPLORISTlife Any concerns of draining the tow vehicle battery when hooked up to the trailer and parked with the engine off?

[@loucinci3922]

Well done

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks! 🙂🙌

[@whitenas]

Victron is the absolute best equipment I've ever used in this application. I have no complaints. I'm curious. What did this install cost? I estimate 13k

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Total installation cost is in the full kit product page in the video description.