Motorhome RV Solar & Lithium Upgrade - Start to Finish DIY Installation

[@EXPLORISTlife]

‼ *IMPORTANT INFO* ‼ I'll be keeping this pinned comment updated with FAQ's about this project, kit, video, etc; so be sure to click 'read more'. *Q: How much did this system cost/Where can I get more info about the parts in this system?* A: Check the kit that we've put together for up-to-date pricing and more info over in our store: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/30a-oem-motorhome-electrical-upgrade-540ah-batteries-multiplus-3k-12v-1200w-solar-orion-12-12-30/ *Q: What If I want a system like this, but want a different solar configuration?* A.1: Check out this 'base kit' in our store: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/30a-oem-rv-upgrade-400-1200ah-battery-bank-multiplus-3k-12-orion-12-12-30-wiring-diagram-kit/ A.2: Add whatever solar charging setup you like from these options: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/battery-bank-voltage-12v/ A.3: Then get your batteries direct from Battle Born. Use code 'explorist' at checkout for $50 off per battery: battlebornbatteries.com/shop/brands/battle-born-batteries/?afmc=explorist_bb67 *Q: I don't want to DIY. Can you install this system for me?* A: We don't offer installation services at EXPLORIST.life as our gig is making these videos that teaches you how to do it yourself. BUT... we have a network of installers that we have trained to install our kits/systems/designs that you can hire. Contact any of them directly for more info: explorist.life/find-a-certified-installer/

[@donnamalerba4886]

We also have a 26M. Confused about the switch you installed up front with the DC-DC charger. Do we need this & why & where to purchase???

[@erickessler6094]

Nate & Steph, Wow, I just love the organization & discipline you demonstrate in your videos! Cheers, Eric

[@terriyarbrough2393]

I absolutely adore my son and sweet DIL. You two are AMAZING. I loved watching you and your crew work on the new rig. Thank you for your dedication and hard work. And thank you for your patience while you taught me how everything functions. Can't wait to get back to Colorado, my upgraded rv, all of my grandanimals and my kiddos. ❤

[@EXPLORISTlife]

😄❤️😄

[@craigobrine9643]

I'm looking at getting the 26M, any regrets on your part for buying it?

[@DeFiDuke]

get a 30ft @@craigobrine9643

[@ascenttev6022]

Your Mother Is Proud Of You 💗. We Are Super Proud Of You ❤.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey @ascenttev6022, Thanks so much! Cheers!

[@rolandmogle9671]

Your mother is very proud/ fortunate to have such a literally a genius ! I have watched 100 s of solar electric systems , no body on the planet does it better than and your wife and your team , including other channel’s that have giant subscribers.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

[@SoggyWaffles1984]

wow, I have been watching almost nonstop for a couple of days and I just finally figured out the random beeps I keep hearing.

[@trekfortruth2841]

Best RV solar channel around!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey, @trekfortruth2841! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀

[@rudivandoornegat2371]

The blue cable ducting with integrated isolator switch makes this install look extra neat.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

😂 That was a bit of a pain to get to line up perfectly, but I'm glad we took the effort to make it happen.

[@waterwings2661]

@@EXPLORISTlifeNice work! I couldn’t find the link you mentioned in the video for the wire duct in your video description.

[@markogaz]

Thank you! Finally, someone to talk about the BIM switch and what to do with it. I have watched a bunch of videos on adding a DC to DC charger, but nobody mentions how to handle the flow from the alternator directly. This has been on my mind from the beginning. All I ever saw was how to add a second channel to charge the coach battery and nothing on the preventing the alternator from continuing on the original channel.

[@caseyarmstrong7064]

I have literally watched all of your videos, and they never seem to get boring. Everything you both do are top notch, and greatly appreciate love watching you both perform your work. Someday I wish to have a system like this on my older 5th wheel. Keep up the great videos guy/ladies, 😊

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey, @caseyarmstrong7064! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀

[@Charlie-zl6pc]

So the DC to DC charger is optional, but the isolator needs to remain switched off unless needed for emergency starts?

[@antonygilbert9695]

REALLY good work ! Appreciate a lot, thanks !

[@silvanocometta9760]

Great, to say the least!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks! 🙂🙌

[@quytrinh271]

has to be no doubt the best 12v electrical videos out there!

[@PaulCTownsend]

Great job and video thank you. Charging a dead or weak battery with the alternator has always been a problem.

[@daviscrt]

Thats our next rig. Might need to make an appointment to do ours. Great work. Thanks Don from California

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey @daviscrt, Thanks so much! Cheers!

[@joeladams338]

Excelent video you two. Love the Chanel i will definitely purchase all of my equipment and instal kits when i am ready. Thank you.

[@88corinutza]

Great Info 👍

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

[@gonzaloburgos8642]

Awesome video I really like you. Thank you for the video. Great information.👍👍

[@bobfarrell6510]

Very neat installation

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Glad it was helpful. Cheers!

[@t.m2933]

This was an "AWESOME" video!!! Thank you for showing us all of the details.

[@GoingPlacesOne]

It's like watching art at work!

[@goose-F16]

High standards! nice work.. fantastic video with tons of information..I love how you guys go thru everything together.. its fun to see how you repeat the exact same process over and over.. it certainly reenforces your expertise and what just works the best.. thank you..

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey, @goose-F16! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀 Definitely trying to show that regardless of how big of a system is needed, the concepts are the same even though the components may be different. Glad that's coming across!

[@bwikfors]

I love your videos and have used them to install 3 full systems now with great success. I wanted to forward on an idea that I used for my personal system with regard to solar panel install on the roof. I decided to use shallow super strut channel to attach the panels. This allowed me to use far fewer (although larger) attachment points to the roof itself and still maintain a low profile. This then allows me to remove/install/move solar panels as I want without needing to drill new holes or fill/seal old ones. All the hardware is available at your typical "Big Box" hardware stores and didn't cost much. I used 1/4" x 1/2" well nuts and lap sealant for the attachment point of the strut channel and made sure that it was attached to the trusses of the roof whenever possible. You can then use cone nuts and middle or end solar brackets to attach to the strut channel. It has worked perfect for nearly 3 years now. Just a thought!

[@michaelrach4725]

Excellent content

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Much appreciated

[@BarkyWalrus]

This build makes running the generator sort of unnecessary, but the way this is configured, the starting load of the generator would go through the 150amp fuse. Seems like there is potential to blow that fuse when starting the generator since it probably pulls that many amps to crank?

[@2manytoyz123]

Very nicely done! Excellent job by you both explaining the process in detail, and both physically doing the work. Very clean installation too.

[@thomasczaplicki3159]

Hey Ryan - nice job on the RV upgrade. I'm sure your Mom is very thankful for all your hard work. This system will be very nice for her! I recently added an Orion 12:12 | 30 to my sailboat and found it very helpful to add a 1/4" aluminum backing plate with spacers between the aluminum plate and the mounting surface. These Orion chargers can get pretty hot and the added head sync of the aluminum plate with the air gap between the mounting surface really helps to keep the charger cool maximizing it's performance. Just a tip I picked up from another KZbinr that I thought would be helpful to mention.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks, Jeff! Yeah, there are all kinds of 'hacks' you can do to make various equipment run cooler depending on how much you want to tinker with it; but most of the time, we just opt for installing it exactly as the manufacturer recommends to keep things simple for those watching who may not like to 'tinker' with stuff as much.

[@dalemajesticwandarer]

Great video Nate & Stef, always so well explained you guys do such a great job. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, greatly appreciated. Will help with my class c install as I’m still a few components short and moving forward your store will help with that process.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

[@Barret-paddles]

On our wish list, thank you for work!

[@victorlopez2143]

I'm totally impressed with ALL of your knowledge of Solar power and electrical setups. The main reason I found your channel is because I've been doing research on adding solar power to my 2019 Jayco Redhawk SE 22C which is solar prep. I also have lead acid battery in the same location and also the same converter charger. At the moment I don't know 'how' much solar will need but I will be checking your videos you put up.. If you have a specific video I should view please let me know...Thank You and subscribed.

[@maxschmeling1527]

You said in the video you would leave a link for the wire duct in the video description, but I don't see it. I can't find that big blue slotted wire duct anywhere. Is it still being sold?

[@machz517]

Great video thank you and if no one has mentioned it yet the factory inverter is behind the TV you just remove the small panel where the coax comes through

[@ACampo-r1o]

Awesome and detailed upgrade! I have a 25R model. Jayco says the chassis alternator does not charge and has not charged the house batteries since 2021 or before. There is no connection between the chassis and house batteries unless the dash button is pushed. If this is true is that switch you put in actually needed? Do I have to worry about my alternator getting fried trying to charge the lithium house battery I plan on installing? I think Jayco tech is giving bad info. 😢

[@mikemoscarelli8905]

Thanks!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks mike! Glad it was helpful!

[@timf6916]

Nice, good job.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks!

[@ssteele1812]

Excellent video, as always. I seem to glean at least one new idea from every one of your videos. This one gave me an idea of how to use your battery relocation kit and an Orion to clean up the factory battery location on my fifth wheel camper. It has several of those temporary breakers all connected together with a "buss bar", one of which is a 40amp breaker for the charging coming thru the 7 pin connector. I think I will remove the one breaker and place an Orion in its place. The factory battery location is directly under these breakers so I will use the relocation studs as intended and have them mounted next to the Orion so I can keep those other breakers connected and powered up.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Nice! Be sure to check your trucks 7-pin wiring if you do that as sometimes the OEM wiring it a bit undersized to support an orion 12/12-30.

[@MitchOfCanada]

really nice install, I would definitely upgrade locks for storage bay (most of them are 2-3 master keys) and try and put batteries in the living area to keep them warm or duct from living into there. I am a huge fan of Solar Rails on Roofs instead of mounting panels directly to the roof, about 1/5th the amount of screws and you have an upgrade path and ability to layer/nest panels.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks for watching! 1: Yeah, there are all kinds of RV modifications you can do as you like. Wouldn't have made sense to show that in this video, though. 2: The batteries we used a self heating, so they don't need to be in the heated living space nor have a heater duct run to them. 3: 1200W for 600Ah of battery bank capacity is an appropriate ratio of solar and these panels will last longer than the motorhome itself more than likely, so an 'upgrade path' isn't necessary, but if you need a different solar array setup when you go to tackle this project on your own motorhome, once you figure out your 'nesting and layering', we have many different configurations of solar arrays you can choose from available at shop.explorist.life

[@jeremybacon8519]

Great video

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks for the visit!

[@lee503]

This was very enjoyable! Fantastic job on the install.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Awesome, thank you!

[@Tedsma]

I LOVE watching your channel. I have learned so much. I'm an RVing Mom with a new Class C too. I just had 2 100AH LifePo4s installed under the stairs. I have searched the internet for 3 days trying to find out how to DISABLE alternator charging.( I picked the wrong installers and they had no idea.) I will just charge from shore and generator for now. Maybe solar in the future. If I disconnect the red wire (or is it the yellow wire to the dash?) from the isolator relay/trombetta and tape it up will that do it? I have a portable jump box and don't need a switch. I was SO CLOSE to getting my answer but there just wasn't enough detail in this video. Thanks to you I have a Victron 712 and I LOVE IT! No more dead house battery for me! :)

[@ACampo-r1o]

I also want to disconnect the isolator permanently. Is that ground wire he points out orange?

[@waynec2962]

Once again a great video thanks!👍

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks! 🙂🙌

[@shawndyer8387]

Just found your channel. This is a marvelous step by step on Solar/LiFE4 upgrade for a Class C. The one thing I could not find is how much does all this weigh. I know some of these Entegra Odyssey RVs in particular have very limited cargo capacity and I was trying to figure out how this install would impact overall weight (after removing the small fridge and OEM battery). I was starting to work through the parts list to try to come up with that number myself, but thought it would be worth asking first. Having a hard time coming up with some of the weights of the individual components.

[@shawndyer8387]

After I asked, I decided to go ahead and do my best attempt at figuring it out myself by walking through the parts list. Counting the two BB 270AH batteries, my best estimate comes to about 413 pounds (including all the copper wire). I also tried looking up the existing battery and from what I can find, I *think* the OEM battery on the Odyssey is around 180 pounds (sounds heavy to me, though, unless the oem battery is 330AH). And, as best I can tell, mini-fridges weigh in somewhere around 35 pounds. With all those assumptions, the net increase in the base weight of the coach would be 198 lbs, which is not as bad as I was expecting.🎉

[@coutaudjean-marie2340]

I like your methodology. Thank you.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

[@loveu2222]

Perfect explanation, as always 👌

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Glad it was helpful. Cheers!

[@netposerx]

I remember that video! 👏 👏

[@firefightermommy1]

Hi, it is worth noting that if your lifepo4 battery bank can’t handle the surge of starting the engine motor via its lead acid battery, using the emergency jump switch is a horrible idea if you turn the ignition on at the same time. It has trashed a few banks per the solar group. Your bank is large enough this may not be an issue, but for individuals with one or two 100ah lifepo4 it could be. Worth noting at least.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

The lithium battery bank installed in this video you're commenting on is most definitely capable of firing up the engine in a jump-starting situation. Re: "Trashing battery banks", if the battery bank is too small to deliver the amount of power necessary to jump start the engine; it shouldn't be 'trashing' anything as the BMS inside of each battery should simply turn off/disconnect, preventing damage (given it's a high quality battery/BMS)

[@charlottemcgaughy5158]

Do you have a kit for this exact system? Also, how long will those batteries power the ac?

[@williamf8257]

Another great video; however, if it was my mom, I would incorporate uploading the Info into the Victron VRM portal. That way, you would have remote access (with Mom's internet) to routinely monitor, tweak, troubleshoot the upgraded electrical system on your mother's RV.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Nice! We have a wiring/component kit available as well as a tutorial that will teach you how to integrate those systems into your moms camper when you get ready to build this system in her camper if you want to change it up from what we showed in this video as we know everybody has different needs and wants: Wiring/Component Kit: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/system-monitoring-wiring-kit/ Tutorial: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pZvGd6SErcpjqac

[@williamf8257]

@@EXPLORISTlife Unfortunately, my mother passed away almost three decades ago; I was making a reference to if I were you (Nate)- and was preforming the upgrade for mom, I would have ....

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Yeah, and I responded in a way that provides value/direction/instruction for anybody reading through the comments section here who feels the same and wants the advanced monitoring of the cerbo gx in their system.

[@lkstaack74]

Did I miss the link to the wire duct?

[@hermes6587]

Nice install and well done video tutorial. I am curious, is the roof a rubber fiberglass roof?

[@lkstaack74]

What type of grommet / pass through did you use to get the 4/0 wire outside of the component cabinet? Are 3/4" rubber grommets for each wire the way to go?

[@keenanstahl]

Great channel. I'm confused about how the various devices in a typical Victron mobile system play nice with the batteries and prevent them from overcharging. It's a very modular system where even the shunt seems to be optional. Does one device end up becoming the master to keep track of battery SOC? I would like to figure out a safe way to do alternator charging of the house batteries. The coach I'm converting has an oil cooled Delco 50DN 24V 270A alternator with an external adjustable regulator. Some literature indicates it has inherent current regulation but I need to research that more. Since all of the high current motors that ran the old HVAC system have been removed from the coach, I have a ton of unused capacity. I want to run one A/C from it while on the road (I know the alternator is quite capable of this from an older build). I'd like to use a Victron Cyrix to do alternator charging to allow more current than the DC to DC solutions produce. I am confused about how the power coming from the alternator to the batteries gets accounted for and which device(s) in the system could supervise the Cyrix and shut it down to prevent overcharging of the house batteries. In my case I would have 24V Lithium house batteries, Victron Inverter/Charger, Victron solar charge controller, the Cyrix/alternator, and probably an Orion 70A converter for 12V loads.

[@jimmaletich6524]

This is really a well done and informative video. Thank you for making it. May I ask why a BMS isn’t necessary? Would it be if a different type of battery were used?

[@jims261]

Another great video thank you

[@EXPLORISTlife]

You bet!

[@kummerleo7655]

You could Connect the Starter battery also to the shunt

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Oh, there is all kinds of additional stuff we ‘could’ do if we wanted additional functionality.

[@kummerleo7655]

@@EXPLORISTlife about the Connection from the Starter battery Take ir from the battery Side of the DC to dc charger

[@EXPLORISTlife]

@kummerleo7655 that’s not a metric we are interested in for this project. Also, this project was finished last year and this RV is now about 2000 miles away.

[@disneycampers]

Hope you can someday do a 50amp class a video

[@EXPLORISTlife]

50A 5th wheel coming up the 3rd weekend in October! Same system as a 50A Class A.

[@johnsharrard1808]

This upgrade plan is nearly exactly what I need to do. We have a similar Integra motorhome built on the same Ford chassis. The only difference for us is that we will only have room on the roof for three 200w solar panels. Are you planning to make this wiring diagram available on the website for download ?. I'd like to purchase a copy for study purposes and I could not find it there yet.

[@nickhensley9904]

Question: what did you do with the original battery isolator that came in the camper?

[@jimthacker1732]

Where can I find the products you use? Junction box for example.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

They are available as part of our complete (or partial, if you like) kits in our store shop.explorist.life

[@DeFiDuke]

also why didn't you use BougeRV CIGS solar panels? they are so much more efficient, work with shadows and they stick on!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

They aren't 'more efficient' no. Solar panels work better in the sun, so we aren't worried about shade. Stick on panels are pretty terrible in terms of heat dissipation, lifespan, and damage to the RV roof, so we will never use a stick on panel for a roof mounted array.

[@Anthonya54]

Great video which will help me with my lithium upgrade on my motorhome. I have a question regarding the battery bank connection to the Lynx distributor. Why is there a need for a 400A fuse between the battery and the Lynx distributor because each of the load connections to the lynx distributor have an individual fuse. I don't see what benefit the 400A provides.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

The 400A main system fuse protects the wires going from the batteries to the lynx distributor as well as the lynx distributor itself. All of the other fuses protect the wires going to each of those components the wires are connected to. Search YT for the video "EXPLORIST.life Where Do Fuses Go?"

[@darrylm3627]

😄👍Good Stuff, Great Tips

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks! 👍

[@davebarnes6068]

Why did you add the negative cable from the shunt/lynx to the frame when the factory battery location negative should be connected to the frame via the battery relocation kit?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

That wire is of inadequate size

[@davebarnes6068]

@@EXPLORISTlife Thank you.

[@SteveHyams]

I purchased your plan to rebuild a 50 amp power system in my trailer and it has gone great, just one question. In your video you say to turn off the existing converter and tape the breaker off. Can I simply remove the converter as it would be the perfect spot for my splice kit box to go?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Sure!

[@mikeyL3147]

For alternator changing would having the dc/dc converter installed after the isolator give you the best of each?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

The way we installed it gives us the best of each. Although there are many ways to do this stuff, rest assured, we are showing you our recommended methods and not keeping the best methods to ourselves.

[@kevinjones7381]

Hi there. Thank you for amazing videos. I have question about using an inverter without charger function as I dont think I would be plugging in very often away from home. How would splicing into the OEM shorepower input differ? Can it simply be spliced into the shore power input cable? I would have to make sure both shorepower and inverter are not being used at same time obviously. Is this is bad option due to chance of having both running? Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks again.

[@lkstaack74]

What were the dimensions of the enclosure for this install? I'm interesting in buying your kits to copy/paste this setup, but I don't know if it would fit in my Winnebago cabinet.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

I don't recall the enclosure dimensions, but with a little creativity/persistance, our systems can really be put in nearly all sizes of enclosures. The dimensions for each component is listed on each product page, so you'll just need to spend some time there with a tape measure. Alternatively we DO offer installation services if you need us to figure it all out for you. All kinds of options to get you the system you want.

[@jasonmann5019]

Your are methodical. Excellent video. I was prepared to comment about the safety of the shunt but you placed spacers so that was great. I do have a question about the factory pin codes for the apps. If you don't change them are you possibly exposed at various campsites where others can potentially log onto your system and change the settings in a nefarious way? Jason from Melbourne Australia.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Yes, you should change your pin codes to something personal. I just didn't do it on this video because then people could see my codes. 🤣😂

[@jasonmann5019]

@@EXPLORISTlife Thank you. Love your work.

[@craigobrine9643]

Any concerns about the batteries getting too cold in that compartment or will the built in heating pads be able to handle it? I live where it gets anywhere from -20F to 110F.

[@jimthacker1732]

16:00+ how do you know what wires go on the junction studs?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

They all do. Everything that was connected to the OEM batteries goes on the junction studs.

[@WayneMay]

Do you leave solar on while in storage? I am hearing mixed opinions about solar panels with load that can cause battery damage, and without load, that can cause panel damage.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

For this specific setup, you can just leave solar on OR you can turn off the whole system. Either way. If need more specific guidance on your particular system and you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂

[@davesherman6610]

Excellent video! To build this exact system for my RV, what should I plan to budget? Sorry to be rude asking costs but its important to the conversation.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Sure! Did you check/find the pinned comment? Prices were listed there.

[@pha2623]

One thing they didn’t mention in the video regarding the emergency jump switch used to power the starter motor from the on board batteries in case of an emergency. If a 24v battery setup is used to power a 24v inverter. Then a separate 12 volt battery is necessary as the starter motor is 12v powered and the cable size must be suitable for yhe current draw.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

We didn’t mention that because this is a 12v battery, so that would have been off topic. 😂

[@pha2623]

Yes, I’m aware of that. I have since seen one of your other van build videos in which you did include a voltage converter but only for low current applications. I’m not being critical, just making sure none of your viewers make that obvious mistake. You are right in mentioning a maximum of 3kw for a 12v system. On another note I’m very impressed by your quality of workmanship and the thoroughness in which you approach each task . My apologies for writing in the third person in the original text.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

@@pha2623 Glad you like the videos. Calling us out on off-topic considerations is DEFINITELY being critical and demeaning the education that we are providing on this channel; so you should just stop doing that. You come across as a know-it-all. If you think you know the BEST way to teach this stuff... start your own channel, so you have ultimate control over the way the topic is delivered.

[@MyNomadicDream]

How did you bypass the factory installed inverter? It was never mentioned

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Didn't need to do anything with it. Since the transfer switch for that inverter always saw "Shore Power" (from the Multiplus Inverter/Charger) it just stays off.

[@MyNomadicDream]

@@EXPLORISTlife OK I think I understand. I'm actually looking to get the explorer kit for my travel trailer. But it has a factory installed inverter and was trying to figure out whether I had to figure out something fancy to do with that wiring (because I plan to use those outlets) or if I can just install the kit like you did.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

@@MyNomadicDream You should just be able to do what we did if it's wired similarly.

[@Liz-ty7ww]

Re: connecting to new lithium batteries. Could a person just diconnect the wires going to old lead acid batteries directly at the original electrical panel and then wire new wires directly from new victrom system to the original electrical panel. this would eliminate a connection from the old battery site to the original electrical panel completlu. My original rv electrical panel is very close to my new victron set up and new batteries. The old battery site, where I would have place junction studs would be furthest away from my new system and the original electrical panel.

[@Jimmy_Jim_Jim_1234]

My small class C Onan generator uses the OEM lead acid house batteries to start it. Have you seen this before?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Yeah. Pretty normal. That's how this install was.

[@Jimmy_Jim_Jim_1234]

@@EXPLORISTlife Did you keep it for the Onan?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

The battery bank relocation kit shown in this video handles that.

[@Jimmy_Jim_Jim_1234]

@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks for taking the time!

[@kyleklaus7045]

I realize this is an older video and so maybe you’re not still paying attention to comments on it. You pointed out at the beginning of the video that there was a inverter existing in the rig and that you couldn’t find it. I have a similar situation in my trailer, so I was curious what you were gonna do with it, but I never heard mention again. Did you just leave it in place under the assumption that it wasn’t gonna hurt anything even if it got turned on but for most of the time you didn’t even need it on?

[@kyleklaus7045]

To add a tiny bit to that I do know where my inverter is, but I’m not sure the best way to take it out of the system. Maybe the simplest thing is just leave it but don’t ever really use it.

[@djgodden]

I've been wondering... why use a solar isolator over a breaker style solar disconnect?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

The isolator is the more correct part as it's designed specifically for the purpose. A breaker can catch on fire if installed in the wrong direction and offers no overcurrent protection. More in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJPaqYibmaiYY8U

[@One2ManyHobbies]

Why such a big solar charge controller? Why not the 100/50 since you wire in series parallel. Those rich panel are 72.9/30.6 correct when wired in series parallel?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

A 50A controller only supports 700W when connected to a 12v battery bank, thus needing a 150/85

[@One2ManyHobbies]

@@EXPLORISTlife ah, I knew there was a reason! Thanks - could you run 2x 100/30’s & split them up that way?

[@camustang1966]

Where do you get the “Victron Blue” wiring duct/channel? Is this something you have on your website and if not, where do you get it? Thanks!

[@stephencrossett565]

I have the Same Odyssey RV do I have to install a dc to dc charger?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

If you don’t want alternator charging, you can omit that part.

[@azrios]

What was the cost on all the parts for this conversion?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Check the pinned comment. That's the first on the FAQ list up there.

[@kaylagarcia8118]

Think the only thing you didn't touch on in the inverter. I am putting this system into my class c motor home but it doesn't have a inverter in it already so need to know if I need one and what one for this setup because mine did not come solar ready so if there is a better video for a class c hookup let me know please, thank you

[@EXPLORISTlife]

The factory inverter isn't relevant. We didn't need to do anything differently for this system that would have done for a system without a factory inverter.

[@kaylagarcia8118]

@@EXPLORISTlife Thank you :)

[@carlkieslich2603]

Do you do installs? Just bought the same motor home.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Sure do! shop.explorist.life/about-our-services/

[@zachcurtis4311]

Why 12v and not 24v in this use case? At what point would you have done 24v?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

24V for systems needing more than 3kvA of Inverting Power or more than 1450W of solar.

[@marks692]

I am curious if there are any issues with the BB batteries handling the starting amps needed for the generator or the emergency starting for the motorhome.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

With a bank this big; there is no issue with that. These batteries can deliver a max of 300A continuous (so, 600A for both of them total).

[@ericjohnson7377]

This is the video I've been waiting for as I'm planning on adding Lithium/Solar/Inverter to my 30a motorhome this fall. Thank you for covering the existing alternator charging, I had no idea how that worked. Some questions; I was planning on a 400ah/800w setup. What is gained by the 570ah/1200w setup except for allowing for more days without sunshine, any lost functionality? Why no Cerbo/GX monitor? Is the battery monitor and bluetooth app enough?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Glad it helped! The additional battery is just more capacity which means you can use more power per day; and the additional solar means you will have a better chance of recharging the batteries to full every day. The Cerbo & Touch 70 is a great add-on for those who like to monitor system data and like the more 'advanced' monitoring; which is NOT my mom. The VictronConnect app gives PLENTY of system monitoring without the expense of the Cerbo GX.

[@ericjohnson7377]

Do you have the link to the blue wire duct?

[@Charlie-zl6pc]

Does the Onan generator charge the batteries too? Don’t recall seeing a section on that but is that an option?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Sure does! In the exact same way as shore power. Power comes from the transfer switch to the multiplus ac input. The transfer switch is getting its power from either shore or generator, whichever is active, and forwarding that to the multiplus.

[@DougSweet]

I love this and so many of your other solar installs. Top notch quality! I have your 30amp RV schematics downloaded and was prepping to tackle a very similar upgrade over the winter in my class A. At 22:22 you show the install of the splice - if my existing 120v wire from the transfer switch to the fuse panel, can reach the multiplus, I can just cut it, and install one end in the multiplus in and the other to the multiplus out. The splice is just needed because of your install location and the camper wiring path, correct?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

That's totally fine! Most campers just don't have a good spot to put the multiplus directly in-line on the shore power -> breaker box wire with enough slack to do that.

[@dragankaldare2619]

Why ANL fuse instead T-class one?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

400A class T fuses have basically been on international backorder for like 3 years at this point.

[@Go4Lo]

I've seen you use copper bar to connect batteries and in place of very short wires in your builds? What thickness/ width bar do you recommend for a 12v system with a 300amp main breaker?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

That was only in one highly specific setup where space was incredibly limiting. I don't recommend doing that under normal circumstances and instead; using wire like we showed in this video and like we include in our kits at shop.explorist.life

[@Go4Lo]

@@EXPLORISTlife you use small pieces of bar to go from master switches to a lynx from time to time, no? Love the full build vids! Do you have any posted with a multiplus 2000 install?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Those are the "Lynx Adapters" from our store shop.explorist.life. Video w/ Multiplus 2000: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gX7CaaZqmLmdjaM Another one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nZSnipyPnLp2sMk Sounds like you are in the pre-purchase research phase? We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit of personalized guidance and support as needed. If you're planning on purchasing from us and need some help; reach out at shop.explorist.life/support

[@Go4Lo]

@@EXPLORISTlife besides being a off grid electrical guru, you are an excellent content creator and businessesman. I have already ordered my parts and will be redoing a 2022 boreas xt that has a dual AGM setup and zamp pwm controller. I have been dropping links to your vids lately on Facebook groups when I am answering questions about off grid wiring and installs! I have one more question - do you feel that a lynx distributor should always be used in a victron system? I'm planning on 2 vatrer 300ah heated lithiums, 2000 multiplus with dongle(and USB to program), 2 mppt controllers, Orion dc-dc, and smart shunt connected through old fashioned bus bars using the app to monitor each individual component. Do you have a video that would sell me on including a lynx?

[@Go4Lo]

I found the lynx mini series you did. Thanks!!!

[@allankawakami]

Great video! What was the total install time?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

When we shoot these videos, we do one 'chapter' per day. It works well for us for the sake of video production and I'd say it would work well for somebody who has never done one of these installs before.

[@paulverroche9458]

Did this unit have a Battery Isolation manager. If so was it removed or is it just left alone?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

There was no BIM. Just a standard solenoid like we mentioned in the video after alternator charging.

[@paulverroche9458]

@@EXPLORISTlifeat some point could you maybe do a video on replacing or not replacing a BIM in a C Class. Been following you for a few years now, so very informative and professional. Thank you

[@EXPLORISTlife]

I'd treat the BIM the same as the solenoid I showed in this video.

[@user-zo6xg8bx4l]

If your house batteries are Lithium, how are you going to allow for the motorhome cross-connect switch to jump the engine battery, if necessary? My understanding is that Lithium batteries can't safely do that.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

They can given the battery bank is big enough, which this one is. 👍

[@larrykelly2838]

I have a National type A motor home, do you do installations, I'm really not able to do that.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey! Thanks for watching! I added installation information into the pinned comment at the top of this video comment section.

[@larrykelly2838]

@@EXPLORISTlife I'm asking if y'all do the installation, I'm not capable.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Right, and i put that information about our network of EXPLORIST.life certified installers in the pinned comment. We do not personally install systems for others, but our network of installers do, which is linked in the pinned comment at the top of this comment section.

[@DeFiDuke]

i'm very confused why you had to remove the fridge - that's crazy, we use our outdoor fridge constantly! why didn't you just cram a LiTime 460AH under the step and call it a day? then you can also use the oupes mega 2 for another 2000w using the shore power plug!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Cramming a battery under the step and calling it a day and then using a random portable generator connected to shore is not the kind of workmanship we are happy with on this channel nor is it what people are coming here to see.

[@DeFiDuke]

wow you never found where the factory inverter is located??

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Eventually yes. It was stuffed back behind the TV.

[@Jimmy_Jim_Jim_1234]

What is the voltage with the three panels in series?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

This is the solar array setup used: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/1200w-solar-charging-wiring-kit-6x-200w-12v-battery-bank/ These are the panels: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/rich-solar-200w-12v-solar-panel/ They are 12V nominal panels which operate closer to 20V. So, 3x of those panels wired in series (series wiring adds the voltages together while the amps stay the same) gives us ~60V. More info on how solar array wiring affects voltage and amperage of the total array: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gXuYq3aPaqp1m7Msi=oFpMwl0qR6wjXYmJ

[@Jimmy_Jim_Jim_1234]

@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks for the info! Have a great day.

[@jmooney70]

Did you find the other inverter? If so, what was done?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Yeah, I found it. Was buried behind a TV back in the depths of a cabinet. Nothing needed to be done as our wiring plan will simply supply power to the 'shore' side of the transfer switch of that inverter and power would simply pass by it, regardless of if we are connected to shore or the multiplus is supplying power.

[@russellnesbitt4548]

@@EXPLORISTlife I have a very similar RV. It has an inverter on off switch by the door. If you did not remove the factory installed inverter, should this switch be disabled? What would happen if victron inverter and the factory inverter were on at the same time?

[@talonpilot]

Great install, very detailed and easily to follow along even if you’re not electrical savvy…. BUT, all of your ‘success’ steps and parts cost a fortune! This is not a “average” upgrade most can afford. Thanks for the knowledge though.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

There are actually plenty if people who can afford stuff like this. Just about what people prioritize financially. Boats are expensive, but people have them. Motorcycles are expensive but people have them. Vacations are expensive, but people take them, etc.

[@earlhunt2815]

This alerts you to the fire hazard of the 30 amp power cord junction box! Winnebago and other manufacturers use twist nuts on the cabling in the junction box which is an absolute no no no no no! These arc and spark causing fires. I know first hand. I'm an aviation electrician and one never ever uses twist nuts on vibrating equipment. You can't use twist nuts on aircraft, sailboats, heavy equipment, and automobiles.

[@nexusasus]

Thanks for the info. What should we use instead? :)