RV Propane HEATER is too cold and too hot explained.

[@volofly2011]

You got to love ductwork! As you know, as a retired aerodynamicist, airflow is a passion. Good to see that you found a workable solution to the poorly engineered original design. I'm a little concerned that your return air is going to ingest the hot output air in the center of the original retire air grill. I would love to see how you are mitigating for that in a follow on video. As always, thanks for sharing, Mark Sleppy

[@rvlifediy]

Thanks Mark. This reassures that most manufactures don't use ME's these days. I couldn't do much on the separation but you will see in next week's video what I did. Very happy with the new performance now though.

[@dacrazycard7086]

I called it before you showed it. A tee off the duct going to the register under the sink was a design error. Most all of the hot air was shooting right past it. Nice fix. Thanks for sharing.

[@rvlifediy]

I wonder who engineered that? Certainly a non qualified engineer or anyone with common sense of airflow.

[@DynamaxRVs]

Always good to see real world examples. I have passed this on to engineering as I am sure we can make it better.

[@rvlifediy]

I don't know who is reviewing on your engineering team, but they could not have signed off on this design of the ductwork. Anyone remotely familiar with airflow would see this as a major issue. I appreciate you looking at this regardless. In my opinion, I would have a hard time accepting any engineering explanation except that it was a mistake and overlooked, and will be corrected. My 2 cents.

[@DynamaxRVs]

@@rvlifediy it does not appear to be to print, but even then, I am not sure it needs to be two 4" runs to the back. The reason that there is two to the back, is because the back duct ALSO feeds the wet bay to keep it heated. Where those two are located on the furnace box though, is feeding more air then it probably needs though. We also already changed the bathroom to a 4" from our testing.

[@rvlifediy]

@DynamaxRVs good to hear changes are made. My rears don't feed the wet bay. I ran a camera through the duct and see nothing in the wetbay. I was suspicious because the furnace doesn't heat my wetbay like it's supposed to. I'm thinking the hole may have been forgotten during production.

[@mowind92]

I have a 28ss and have similar issues, but I also have a furnace vent that dumps into the insulated external compartment on the passenger side. I’ve measured as high as 160 degrees Fahrenheit going into that compartment.

[@rvlifediy]

Mine is supposed to go in the wet baybas well. I haven't actually check where it dumps out. I'm assuming it is connected to the same ducting in the floor that goes to the bedroom. I'll have to run a scope to see where it dumps out. I can't feel the temp change at all in the wet bay at all so I'm wondering if they missed that.

[@mowind92]

@@rvlifediy In mine it is a round port in the “ceiling” of the compartment that is aimed straight down. There’s an opening between the two waste tanks that leads to the water bay side, but based on my temperature readings very little of the heat gets over to the side where it’s needed. I’m thinking of designing a deflector to try and route the warm air over to the water bay side…

[@rvlifediy]

Thanks for the info. My two tanks touch each other and take up the entire with of the wetbay so nothing can blow down between the tanks as the tanks have no space between them. I'll have to investigate more but I'm thinking the bottom of the metal pan duct I have is just exposed in the ceiling of the wet bay and transfer heat that way. I'll have to run a camera to really find out. I did end up doing a video to silence the furnace so that will likely post next week.

[@mowind92]

@@rvlifediy If there’s a port into the wet bay, you should be able to see it. And thank you so much for the videos you post. Like you, I had a 2020 Winnebago View and that’s when I found your awesome material. I switched to an Isata 5 28ss Xplorer edition back in July and I’m really happy with the upgrade. I’m scheduled to get the Liquid Spring conversion in early November and that, I think, is going to be a real game changer.

[@rvlifediy]

@mowind92 cool. I'm jealous of your upcoming liquid spring. I had my liquid springs planned in July but didn't have enough time to commit not having the RV. Will likely still do it if time allows. Too many projects and trips that take priority and the family is ok without it for now.

[@markglosser4266]

Thankyou for another great information video and looking fwd to your sound attenuation solution.

[@rvlifediy]

Thanks Mark. It will be next week's video.

[@jasoncruz3506]

Great video another thing added to my laundry list to do in RV thanks for the videos

[@rvlifediy]

Always a laundry list lol.

[@jasoncruz3506]

Yeah and thanks to you my Amazon list not even even bigger 😂

[@YoungKye-rn8pw]

안녕하세요. I am shopping for a rv either class a or b+. Do you know of MPG for Winnebago View n Dynamax class c? I enjoy watching your handy works on rv. Good job...

[@rvlifediy]

On the Winnebago View, I averaged 14.1 MPG driving 76MPH. On the Dynamax class C, I get 10.7 MPG driving 76-78 MPH. The Dynamax is much bigger, heavier, and has much more power though. Hope that helps.

[@YoungKye-rn8pw]

Thanks for quick response. Do you still have the VIEW?

[@rvlifediy]

@@YoungKye-rn8pw I do not. I sold it a few months ago.

[@kevinz8930]

Considering this is supposed to be an RV designed for winter use I I think it is quite pathetic the way they half-assly installed heating. All they would have to do is read the furnace instructions that the manufacturer supplies with it. And this is supposed to be one of the better brands ?

[@rvlifediy]

Yes very true.

[@CanadasOceanPlayground]

As an owner ( Retired) of an HVAC contractor , that is the most stupid install from the factory I’ve seen . Sad that you have to spend time and money to do it better. Whoever although I suspect that they don’t have a P.Eng designing the systems and if so they should fire that person! At least they used better ductwork for the leads. You should also add AB vanes at the plenum If theres room and get a CFM meter so you can adjust the airflow to needed areas. Good work to fix.

[@rvlifediy]

Yes without a doubt no PE would sign off on that. Very disappointed how poorly it was done. My fix works great however I would like to get more volume at the front door supply vent. That way the upper bunk can get more heat. I need to make some distribution changes. The very front of the furnace supplies blow the hardest even with the awkward 90 bends in the flex. I've been trying to find 90 degree pieces that will fit nicely with the furnace collar but haven't had much luck. Will be changing it sometime in the future, but for now, it works much better in 20 degree weather.