3 Common RV Mistakes: Correcting The Misinformation On Travel Trailer Hook Up

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

✨ *PRODUCTS FEATURED IN THIS VIDEO* ✨ 🔹 Rubber Wheel Chocks amzn.to/3A9wtyy 🔸 X-Chocks amzn.to/3A6Z33B 🔹 Trailer Coupler Lock Pin amzn.to/4fAN8vm 🔸 1/2" Retractable Breaker Bar amzn.to/3T1KyF9 🔹 Tongue Blocks amzn.to/46y05St 🔸 Breaker Bar amzn.to/3YHIDZL 🔹 1" Socket amzn.to/4dGnQKp 🔸 Measuring Tape amzn.to/46ROX3b 🔹 RV Snappads www.rvsnappad.com/discount/RVTT10 🔸 Quick Link for Brake Cable amzn.to/3LZDZ1y *OTHER VIDEOS YOU MAY LIKE* 🎥 Travel Trailer Tear Down kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6uVlYyXpqecrZo 🎥 Travel Trailer Set Up kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6PQdaJ_d5KsbdU 🎥 Chain Test kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZ3NZWWkpJl3rrs If you want to see a lot of great videos on different hitch comparisons, check out my friend Cory @WanderingWeekends *You're INCORRECTLY Connecting Your Travel Trailer: The Correct RV Hook Up Process Explained* Unfortunately, there's a lot of misinformation on correctly hooking up or connecting a travel trailer to a truck or tow vehicle. In this video, I will show you the safe and correct way to hitch up. Chapters in this video: 0:00 Intro 0:19 Before Connecting 1:09 Positioning & Chaining 3:17 Mechanical Connections 5:21 Common Practice VS Physics 6:10 Big Thanks to RV Snappads 6:53 Chain Load Test 7:17 Brakes & Power 10:00 Bloopers #rv #rvlife #rvliving #rvlifestyle #rvtips #rvtravel #rvtipsandtravels *RV ESSENTIALS:* 🎥 Our Essentials Video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6bZhGawj7FrZ8U 🔸 Camco Rhino Flex Sewer Hose & Elbow Kit amzn.to/3wxaiyG 🔹 Camco Clear Sewer Elbow amzn.to/3eezBe7 🔸 Camco RV Water Filter amzn.to/4dfEp0x 🔹 Rubber Wheel Chocks amzn.to/3v0lL5I 🔸 Power Watchdog 30 Amp Surge Protector/EMS amzn.to/3hAmgCy 🔹 Power Watchdog 50 Amp Surge Protector/EMS amzn.to/3SDYTHs 🔸 Beech Lane Wireless RV Leveler amzn.to/402YpgI 🔹 Liquified RV Tank Treatment amzn.to/3ksg1Ck 🔸 Tire Minder TPMS amzn.to/3mjuBg0 🔹 Water Pressure Regulator amzn.to/3m3ZFzZ 🔸 Rubber Gloves 6 Mil amzn.to/3XNo7Dc 🔹 Best RV Water Hose amzn.to/3RCXalb *MAINTENANCE:* 🔸 Boeshield T-9 Rust Preventative & Lubrication amzn.to/3sjcjMx 🔹 Eternabond Roof Tape amzn.to/3Ad290J 🔸 Geocell Proflex Sealant amzn.to/3Qdbj8c 🔹 Road Tool Kit amzn.to/41NIQKj *INTERIOR:* 🔸 Cross Bar Door Handle amzn.to/3o8WWS5 🔹 Shower Caddy amzn.to/3bdU80W 🔸 Soap Dish amzn.to/3pKheSn 🔹 Oxygenics Shower Head amzn.to/3RCQKm1 🔸 Perfect RV Paper Towel Holder amzn.to/3tZxd1K 🔹 Dimmer Switch (watch this video) kzbin.info/www/bejne/aJPFonWZiNiFkLM 🔸 Electric Heater/Fireplace amzn.to/44ujuCX *EXTERIOR:* 🔸 X Chocks amzn.to/3m3ck2i 🔹 Carmtek 10 Digit Keyless Entry System amzn.to/3t4IMpB 📺 The Carmtek Lock Video kzbin.info/www/bejne/gZSohpqpedxpoc0 🔸 Low Point Drain Valves amzn.to/3Vko8AH 🔹 90 Degree Hose Elbow amzn.to/3RH1ksn *OUTDOOR GEAR:* 🔹 Blackstone Griddle amzn.to/3TG0pK1 🔸 Outdoor Gravity Chairs amzn.to/3Sb1p4M 🔹 Ground Mat amzn.to/41u3wXg 💥 Sign up for our FREE Newsletter: rvtipsandtravels.myflodesk.com/freenewsletter 👇 *DISCOUNT & COUPON CODES* 🚐 *10% off RV Snappads & Snapjacks* rvsnappad.com/discount/RVTT10 🛌 Get *25% off your RV Mattress* by Brooklyn Bedding at rvmattress.com/rvtips Use discount code: rvtips 🚛 TireMinder TPMS Systems (use coupon code RVTIPS25, get $25 off select systems) www.minderresearch.com/ (good through 2024) 💻 *We have a store on eBay!* www.ebay.com/usr/rv_tips_and_travels *If you want to support the work I do to help others, you can:* 1) Buy us a coffee: www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=J2KKM9NR3BJJA 2) If you cannot donate, the easiest way to support our channel is to SUBSCRIBE, turn on ALL NOTIFICATIONS, click the LIKE BUTTON, leave a COMMENT & SHARE the videos with your friends. ✨⭐ *MORE RV ACCESSORIES ON AMAZON* ⭐✨ www.amazon.com/shop/rvtipstravels 💥 *NEW TO OUR CHANNEL?* Check out our catalog: www.youtube.com/@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS/playlists *Follow Us on Social Media* instagram.com/RVTipsAndTravels facebook.com/RVTipsAndTravels If you find a dead link, *PLEASE* let us know. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. There is NO ADDITIONAL COST TO YOU when purchasing from our links. AI imagery & audio may be used in this video. We may also receive products or payment to create videos, however our feedback is strictly based on our experiences, regardless of compensation. rv tips rv modifications rv mods rv life rv how to rv maintenance camping rv travel rv living travel trailer tips rv tips and tricks rv lifestyle rv hacks rv essentials travel trailer hookup travel trailer hookup to truck hitching up travel trailer hitch up tow vehicle hook up connect travel trailer rv hook up trailer connection rv brake cable rv safety chains rv coupler rv hitch up how to hook up a travel trailer how to connect an rv tow

[@jamessajack982]

Been towing bumper pulls for 25 years, watched this video to see how many things you did wrong, and it is SPOT ON! I’m glad someone finally addressed twisting chains. He is right about cutting off links to get the right length. Very well done, Ross!

[@davestine513]

@@jamessajack982 I agree. Dealerships can learn from this video.

[@Capt-John-T-Moore]

As usual a Great Informative Video. I hope some newbie’s and seasoned veterans learned something by watching. I know I did. Thanks Again!

[@nhamilton9545]

I rented a UHaul and was surprised when the worker twisted the chains as a means of "adjustment for the length".

[@pathunter7003]

@@nhamilton9545 I was thinking along the same lines, when using your own trailer you can have the correct chain length but when renting a uhaul /Penske trailer and the chains are too long they won’t adjust them to the proper length

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

there are chain reducers you can get if your chains are too long and you tow with multiple trucks (google double clevis) .. i will address this in an upcoming video.

[@jimcross1840]

Ive Towed for years buts this is a great refresher. I would like to add one tip. If after you back up and BEFORE you put the truck in park, engage your parking brake, and then put it in park this should eliminate that annoying 1 inch extra roll that often takes the truck out of position. 😊

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

Thanks for watching and commenting Jim.... you can also just engage the parking brake before taking your foot off the main brakes, which will work before or after putting the truck in park. thanks for the reminder!

[@rvgearandfar]

Another fantastic process video Ross! For the breakaway safety cable - I swapped out one of my license place bolts for an eye bolt and nyloc nut behind the fender - makes it super convenient to clip on and is independent of the hitch receiver

[@ConservativeVet84]

@@rvgearandfar Great idea.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

Great idea

[@CharlesinGA]

Dont cut the chains, you may wish you had more chain should you change tow vehicles or hitches. Just move the hook down to the desired link and leave the unusued links dangling. If needed, fold them back on the chain and tie them to it with wire ties. Alternaively you can used rated H links to shorten the chains, leaving a loop of chain below the H link.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

Thanks Charles, I addressed shortening chains for folks who use or may use different tow vehicles in the future here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXipimSCfr2Ig68 Here is the double clevis you can use to shorten the chain: 🔸 Double Clevis (11,300 lb WLL) amzn.to/3XO0kVt

[@floydffrogfloydffrog7453]

I'm reminded of the time I hooked up the camper and had gotten about a block when it suddenly came to me that I'd neglected to close the hitch. It was on our checklist but the wife and myself had missed it due to a completely unanticipated sequence of innocuous events. So now it's on the checklist twice. Another informative, no-nonsense video. Thank you!

[@ericb.4914]

@@floydffrogfloydffrog7453 not sure what those innocuous events are but I suspect your surrounding neighbors distracted you with their useless conversation. People just dont get it. When I am unloading or loading my car in the trailer or hooking up the trailer I dont want help nor do I want to engage in any conversation. That is how stuff gets missed. Again, people dont get it. At the race track that behavior is particularly bad.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

excellent point Floyd... same goes with changing oil on the truck, checking fluids (so you dont leave a cap off), etc...

[@websitesbylou]

Good job, Ross! I had a travel trailer from 2021 to 2023, and I made over 30 trips with this trailer. After watching your video, I see that I could have made a few changes to my procedure that would have made the whole travel process a lot safer. Twisting chains? Guilty! Thank you. Lou from Georgia.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

I've been guilty of doing a lot of things wrong over the years too, not ashamed to admit it. We learn and help each other!

[@websitesbylou]

@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS -- I think back to the mid-70s when I was towing small fishing boats. The small amount of knowledge that I acquired was from watching other fisherman or from asking questions of the supposed "experts" at the marina. I was happy to believe everything they told me because they were "experts." These folks had a lot of "seat of the pants" experience, but "experts?" Not hardly. Sometimes being lucky completely outweighs being smart. Not often, but once in a while. 🙂

[@karenpolansky9097]

Good to know that I’ve been doing things correctly, so thanks for that. Two things stuck out for me though as a 5 ft solo traveller. 1) I usually raise my hitch higher to make it easier to engage the clamps on my bars. 2) As a solo traveller I usually have to run back and forth several times to ensure all of my lights are working. With your hint to just engage the hazards, this will save me the extra steps. So thanks!

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

glad to help, and be safe out there Karen!

[@be-swimdad5625]

Great video! I've been in the towing game a minute or two as well. I am so glad you pointed out to hook up the chains before lowering the tongue. While it was not during the hitching process, I witnessed a run away camper during the un hitching process because they un hooked the chains, and then un hitched the camper. I've always been a hook chains up first and unhook chains last guy...glad see more of us out there!

[@bretmohler9719]

actually happened to me. unhitched the tailer and it twisted causeing the jack to slide off the block. i had used wheel chocks but 1 was resting on tree root and didnt grip well after the trailer changed pitch so that wheel rolled just an inch or 2 but enough to pull the jack off the block i was using. however the chains took the brunt of the load as it came down and it prevented the jack foot/jack and even A frame fram slamming into the ground so no damage was done. had i taken the chains off before that i have no idea how much worse that could have been. i also will no longer trust a root surface with the chocks. it sat tight when i put it in but i didnt think about how it would change when front pitched up. so i scrutinize the surface more.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

wow, thanks for sharing Bret... interesting story and glad it worked out ok for you. I had something similar happen my first trip 8 years ago, but the trailer rolled towards the truck. in my case, a large tree root actually stopped it from hitting the truck, but you're exactly right: scrutinize the surface!

[@JeffSkymaster]

A good tip is Chock tires first before unhooking from tow rig.

[@DB-yj3qc]

Hmmm, was the guys foot wrapped up like a Q-tip when that happened. 😮 If so, I might know him. 😳 He might have already been distracted trying to figure out how he was going to pay for over $12000 in medical bills. If this was it, the wheels were chocked already.

[@chriscutress1702]

Regarding the power between the truck and the trailer. After having the cable pinched and damaged between the anti-sway bar and the hitch assembly (which took a day of repair and the replacement of a number of fuses both in the trailer and in the tow vehicle) I got into the habit of attaching a bungee chord from the propane cover and the mid-point of the power cable. This allowed flexible movement of the cable but ensured that it didn't drop down where it could be pinched by the anti-sway bars and the hitch assembly. When they saw what I was doing a number of trailering friends started doing the same thing with positive results. No more pinched power cables.

[@DB-yj3qc]

@@chriscutress1702 Good tip.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

good tip for those with extra long power cables!

[@brandoncarpenter9158]

Thanks for the great video. I happen to be one of those individuals who twists one of my chains because it is longer than the other. It was good to see why I should shorten that chain. I also like the tip about clipping the breakaway cable to the vehicle frame rather than the hitch receiver. I'll have to see if my van has a good attachment point. One point I disagree with is the length of the breakaway cable. That's an issue I questioned before and did some research on. The RVIA (Recreational Vehicle Industry Association) recommends that the trailer break away cable be slightly longer than the safety chains rather than shorter. The reasoning is that if the trailer becomes uncoupled and held by the chains, the driver will still have full control over the brakes rather than them being fully applied and potentially making an unsafe situation worse. Keep making the great content.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

Personally, I would just cut them to the right size... its really the proper way to do it. I would disagree with the break cable being longer... if the tongues detaches and the chains catch the tongue, the driver may have no way of knowing about the disconnection. with knowing this, coming to a stop could put the trailer through the truck. trailer brakes are not like truck brakes, they wont stop the trailer like truck brakes stop a truck. I do appreciate the input and its definitely an option.

[@buckfiden2807]

​@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS Trailer brakes supplied with full current from the breakaway switch vs a controller create 2 very different results. If you install the chains correctly as shown in your video you still have control of the trailer and should be able to steer and stop with much more control than fully applied locked up trailer brakes. As far as knowing if it's come detached I would hope the noise and changes in vehicle geometry would alert even the worst of drivers.

[@Dusdaddy]

On the surface, it does make sense that you would still want the ability to slowly brake and come to a stop without the brakes locking up if it becomes unhitched and is sitting on the chains. The reality though is that it may take too long for you to realize it is unhitched and your first knowledge of it may be the trailer slamming into the back of your truck. And if you do realize it immediately, your first reaction will be to slam on the brakes anyway.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

im in the same boat, I can see pros and cons both ways. I feel like because the law only states you only need to have a brake cable connected and not a specific length, it might be a matter of personal preference? Im going to dig into this one a little bit. heres the ulitmate question... how strong are the brakes at 60-65 mph if they are immediately fully engaged. I know trailer brakes are more meant to AID the trailer in stopping, and are not necessarily the same strength as truck brakes are on a truck, for example. Knowing this, I dont feel like fully applied trailer brakes at your highest speed is going to make keeping the truck in the lane that difficult... the brakes should definitely make you notice something is wrong, but i dont think its going to cause an accident... I could be wrong, i have never fully squeezed my brake controller on the highway. I think the answer to that question will help us make the decision if we want our cable longer or shorter than our chains.... more to come on this. Thanks everyone!

[@Dusdaddy]

@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS Excellent points! Something that really needs to be tested on a closed track with "disposable" trailer....lol

[@673Piper]

Great video and spot on advice. I’m a recently retired MTO officer in Ontario, Canada. DOT for my American friends. I’m also an avid RVer. It’s all about getting to where we are going safely.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

thank you!

[@jayayers2511]

Interesting about hooking the brake cable to the frame. I drove semi’s for 40 years. I was told to NEVER put the safety chains upside down as the spring loaded flimsy retaining mechanism has fallen off many times. More likely than something knocking it off from the road! NEVER SADDLE A DEAD HORSE!!

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

Ive been towing this specific RV for 8 years and my retaining mechanisms have never come off my hooks. If yours have come off, and you believe them to not be hitting anything from the road, I would immediately question the quality of those chain hooks/retainer clips. They should also be replaced immediately, as you probably know a hook that was manufactured with a retaining clip will fail inspection without a retaining clip. The only time a retaining clip is not needed is if the hook was manufactured without one. Same with lifting chains, as outlined by OSHA, ASME & ANSI.

[@lovinglife69]

Oh my! I just bought a travel trailer in June from the dealership. We have went on 6 trips so far. Anywhere from 2hrs to 4hrs away from home. We are 1st time owners, so I wanted the dealership to do a walkthrough with us. I had *a lot* of questions. Of course, I will search KZbin for answers also, but I never take just one person's word for it to be *_fact_* I will do a lot of research. Our dealership showed us how to hitch up and told us to *twist the chains* Ughhh! So, I am going to have to cut a couple of links out. He also told us to clip the chain downward on the hitch. *_WRONG_* Makes me nervous now. Thank you so much for all your videos. I have learned a lot from you!

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

if you have hoods that you can easily disconnect from the chains (like mine in the video), just move the hook to the appropriate link and you can let the additional links either hang or zip tie them to another link. That way you dont have to cut the links.

[@mwaynem]

I have a steep driveway that has a fairly harsh angle where I inter the street so I don't install my load leveling bars when hitching up at my house. A half mile down from the house is a very wide and level pull out where I can safely install them. This also where I remove them on my way home. With all of the frame failures happening on travel trailers, I don't want to take the chance of damaging my trailers' frame.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

makes sense.

[@pineychristian]

Ross great points. Also the safety chains being installed from bottom up is also stronger from what I was told. The way the hooks pitch when safety chains are needed prevents them possibly snapping off tip of hook

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

as long as the throat of the hook is against the eyelet, you are good!

[@The42Joker]

I can't tell you how much I value your videos! We upgraded from a popup to a 27RK Travel Trailer last May and your details are great! You are one of the few creators whose "ads" for your sponsor, I don't skip! Do you have a Maintenance Checklist? Like a "Yearly, Quarterly, Monthly, Daily" kind of thing? Like how often to treat your slide seals, or how often to sterilize your water system.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

maintenance is tricky to put in one checklist... its long, but we do release a lot of maintenance videos on specific topics.

[@hailster]

Thanks for this video, I thought I was doing it the right way but I now know that I have a couple of things to change on my hook up process. I can't believe I never thought to hook up the chains right away to the tow vehicle, that makes so much sense.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

i hoooked up chains after connecting for years too. after 8 years im not ashamed to say im still learning too, and thats what this channel is all about, learning from experience and through others experience.

[@CaptTPT]

Another great video Ross. Nicely done. I must say I would like to hear from Lippert on the issue of stressing the axles/suspension components when you change tongue elevation a few inches with X-chocks in place. If that amount of stress is significant we have serious issues to worry about with our suspension systems. Just imagine the stress placed hitting a bump at 60 mph in comparison. If this stress is not good, I’m never driving on the freeway again!

[@hgoff5617]

That was my thought - I've actually forgotten the X braces and they just peeled out when i moved. i don't think these flimsy things are going to damage a suspension component.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

i was skeptical at first too, but I'm going to trust the manufacturer on stuff like this, as minimal as it may seem. heres something to consider: when driving, the axels and wheels move independent of each other... when x-chocked, they are bound together, so if you think of it that way, by changing the pitch one axle will adjust differently than the other, depending if you are raising or lowering the front. have the x-chocks on during this process is not allowing them to move independently.... im not sure, im definitely not an engineer, but I feel if thats what the manufacturer is saying, its my obligation to let my viewers know, until someone can prove otherwise. hope that helps bud.

[@rvtech101]

Excellent video! I’ve been installing and demonstrating for customers hitches for decades. This is almost word for word the walk-through I give my customers. The more educated they are the less chances of something going wrong. I might just save myself some time and just play this video for new customers!

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

thank you bud.

[@sundogbc8603]

One important reason for not having your chains too long is that they can spark on the pavement when hitting a bouncy spot in the road, potentially igniting a fire. That's not something you want anywhere, but especially in places like British Columbia or California where major wildfires are a yearly occurrence. Also, I'm going to start attaching my chains with the clasps upsidedown and my brake cable to the truck frame, neither of which occurred to me before seeing this video

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

👍

[@henrykrecklow817]

I painted the front of my trailer tongue safety yellow so as to better see it when backing to connect the hitch.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

something i really need to get around to doing... ive been putting it off for 7 years now, and my new tow vehicle has a small screen. time to get to it.

[@RandyK1ng]

Ross, another awesome video. I just installed air lifters on my Chevy Colorado for leveling our Forest River Wolf Pup because the back of the truck seemed like it was dropping too much on hook-up. The air bags work perfectly, BUT I would love to see a video on the right way to set them; i.e., do I want to maintain the level of the truck when nothing is connected? Do I want it to drop a little? On our last trip up I-94 in Michigan, they have this godawful concrete pavement that is "sculpted" so each section dips in the middle and rises toward the expansion joints. We both felt like our heads would snap off from the bouncing.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

Ive never used bags so I really dont know much about them. are your leaf springs in good shape? its normal for a truck to drop a little with a load, even my 1 ton ram drops a little when i connect our small trailer.

[@anthonygraham2956]

excellent video, only thing i do different is i use the loop on the pin to hold my cable for the brake lights and the cable for the emergency brake so it does not fall on the ground

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

👍

[@IH-nr7dx]

As long as there is no danger of pulling the 7-way plug in the event of a disconnect from the ball. If the safety pin doesn't pull you could be left with no control over the trailer brakes.

[@that.schamp]

Thanks for a great guide to the process! I've always hitched before connecting the chains. That is an improvement I will take away! I've never found a good place to connect the brake safety cable. This bugged me, so I bored out the license plate holes and put eye bolts in. The brake safety cable is secured to one of the two eye bolts with a carabiner. My Tacoma had metal behind the license plate, but the F-150 is all plastic. On the F-150 I used bumper washers to secure the eye bolts to reduce the unlikely risk of the eye bolts pulling through the plastic and ripping the license plate off instead of pulling out from the trailer side. For most trailers I have used, with a non-weight distribution hitch, I run the brake cable trough one eye bolt then to the opposite side to keep the brake cable just long enough. Since my Blue Ox WD hitch is longer, I just run direct to the eye on the same side that the brake safety switch is mounted to the trailer.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

thanks bud, appreciate the comment... i have a video coming out soon talking about the license plate bolt.

[@BCarborist]

Good video, I've had 2 chippers come off the back of my trim truck in the last 10 years, it's not so bad when you follow most these steps

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

thanks for watching!

[@rdgerdes]

Such good tips! I usually hook up the chains last...no more! Thanks, Ross.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

it never hurts to do it first... hopefully the chocks do their job and you never have a problem, but doesnt hurt to be safe.

[@kenbrown2808]

crossing the chains also keeps the loop fairly consistent in droop as you go around corners. whereas hooking straight would leave the loop getting more slack on an inside turn and coming tighter in an outside turn.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

👍

[@ashleyfinnegan9142]

Out-freaking-standing! I saw a camping world video where they hooked the brake cable to the chain hook!😮😮😮

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

yeah that will never pull the brake 😐

[@ConservativeVet84]

I painted my tongue bright yellow. My backup camera picks it up because it’s much brighter

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

something i really need to get around to doing... ive been putting it off for 7 years now, and my new tow vehicle has a small screen. time to get to it.

[@IH-nr7dx]

I hope you meanthe trailer tongue!!!😊

[@ericjdommer]

Just getting into trailer details and you have great content. TY. Best comment is stating the fact you will never charge ppl to watch your vids and that you have sponsors. Well done.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

thanks Eric, glad to have you here bud.

[@1320fastback]

Very good video and always helpful to have a refresher course every once in a while. I will admit to accidentally towing a toy hauler round trip from Glamis to San Diego. At the time I had a motorcycle trailer, a small utility trailer and a car trailer. I had a few different tongue/ball setups and had a 2" on the truck and the toy hauler was 2 5/16". Thank god for that 1000 pounds of tongue weight!!!!

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

👍

[@johnathangraham7226]

This is a great how to video. I highly recommend this procedure to anyone with questions or has not connected a trailer in the past.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

thank you, hope it helps

[@CarlosHerrera-di2fz]

I always place my vehicle in neutral first, then apply the emergency brake, then place it in park. Fully agree 100% with the tips on your video. Great information.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

👍

[@CC-vr8wn]

First off never trust a Dodge to pull anything. Just kidding, this is a good video. As someone who is in the class 8 trucking business, hot shot and pulls a travel trailer, I’ll throw my 2 cents in. If you don’t cross safety chains, that’s a DOT violation, twisted safety chains is also DOT violation. The emergency brake cable can be hooked to the same place as the safety chain, but not to the safety chain. I agree that somewhere other than the hitch is probably best, but if your entire hitch/receiver comes off the truck you have huge problems anyway. Now, I’ve never been stopped by DOT while pulling my camper, so I’m sure a lot of violations, people are going to say “I’ve been pulling my camper for 20 years this way and never had a problem” go missed. However we have been stopped plenty of times in tractor trailer/hot shot and gone over with a fine tooth comb, so I’m pretty familiar with DOT standards. Just poured a good drink, can’t wait to read the comments on this post…. Enjoy 😊

[@mikejames7013]

DOT doesn't usually pull over RV's unless something is seriously wrong, they are commercial vehicle enforcement. The whole purpose of safety chains is to prevent your unhooked trailer from taking out traffic behind it, not to hold up your trailer, not designed for that. If you have an e-brake set up, put a small shackle in the tow holes (should fit with safety chain) and connect to that. Otherwise great video.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

thanks for watching

[@finalizedtrains]

Great video! You can never go wrong learning more or refreshing on things you already know. You do a great job with your videos. I have a Ross playlist that I use to reference. Keep it up and thank you for putting these together!

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

Glad you like them!

[@bobertforher]

What if your chains are too short to cross without rubbing on the bottom of the trailer hitch? We just got the hitch at the dealer and everything you say don’t do, they did🤦🏻‍♀️. Would you have them shorten the emergency break line or just do it yourself? Every time I questioned something I was told I was wrong. The break line is twisted in the chain, they did not cross the chains as “they would rub the bottom of the hitch” and finally he hooked the break line to the hook of the chain. I just walked away. Now do you back up with the sway bars in tact or off? This was a “hitch expert” Thank you We also have the exact same hitch as you.

[@lovinglife69]

My dealership told me the same thing. Everything is the opposite of this video.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

if they are too short to cross, you just dont cross them. personally I would have new chains welded to the tongue that I could cross, but theres an expense to that. you can shorten the brake cable yourself, but I have a new video coming that talks about that so hang tight. if the brake cable is run through the chain, it has a chance to break. this is a definite no-no.

[@bobertforher]

@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS thank you. I have informed the dealership and they are going to retrain their employees. They assured me this will be fixed. They also said they will fix our chains😊. We did not take possession due to them needing to fix things found at inspection.

[@blj859]

I’ve been towing for many years and learned 2 engineering structural things I’ve never known… Thank you… ps: you’re a very good teacher!

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

thank you for the nice comment... i cant take all the credit... i just spend a lot of time doing some research (some scientific, some common sense) because i knew theres a lot of conflicting info out there. glad you enjoyed my friend!

[@btorr2945]

Depending on power cables, I have seen people use Velcro strap around the cable and cap (at the tow vehicle)as an extra safety, to keep the cable from disconnecting from the outlet.

[@robertpearson8798]

I just use a piece of electrical tape.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

good idea too!

[@charlo1234]

An other good habit to have before hitting the road is activating trailer brakes with the brake controller knob while starting to roll forward. That way you know that your trailer brakes are working and that they don’t drag after a brake application 😊

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

good point, i will usually tug test my trailer brakes about 10 seconds after pulling out of my driveway by using the override button on the brake controller only.

[@robertbaker7610]

Not so much needed if you have used the trailer for a while, but I have gotten a trailer before that was wired backwards for the turn signals (meaning when you put on the left turn signals the right signals on the trailer were activated), I have also seen where someone wired the tow vehicles turn signals backwards on a new install. When I tow a new trailer I still check the individual turn signals, but do use the hazards to check everything also.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

agreed.

[@scottmcdaniels3254]

Great video and great tips for those new to bumper pull RV's. However I disagree with one of your points... If after a failure of the hitch system, if the safety chains are keeping the trailer still connected to my tow vehicle as they are intended to do, I do not want the control of the trailer brakes taken away from me, the driver. The emergency braking activation cable is only for an instance where you have totally lost control of the trailer (meaning it is 100% detached from the tow vehicle). The trailer power cable should also be long enough so as to not disconnect from the vehicle, and the emergency braking system should not activate if the chains are pulled to their full length with the trailer unhitched, but the chains remain attached to the tow vehicle. This allows ME to control what the trailer brakes are doing should this ever happen. In simple terms, the emergency cable should only activate the emergency braking switch if the distance between the trailer and the tow vehicle becomes greater than what it could with the safety chains pulled to full length. The way I keep the emergency cable and the trailer power cable from getting fowled in any part of the hitch is to clip them both inside the loop of the wire bale of the coupler lock pin. This will keep them from ever being pinched during sharp turns, etc.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

Sorry Scott, I'm a little confused by your comment. If the hitch fails, as you say, or comes off the truck, the safety chains are NOT keeping your trailer connected to the truck because they are connected to the hitch as well. Do you understand? if the hitch comes off, so does the part where your chains are connected to the hitch, and having the brake activated could prevent the trailer from running though the back of your truck. I might be misunderstand your comment, please clarify if what I'm reading is not what youre saying. Thanks Scott.

[@scottmcdaniels3254]

@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS The "Hitch" is the system of components that are from the receiver socket aft. If anyone with any engineering sense was concerned about the vehicle "receiver hitch" coming detached from the vehicle, with the highly regulated society we live in, there would be laws requiring even the safety chains to be directly connected to the vehicle frame. That is not the case, because it is not a problem. The safety chains are for a failure of the hitching "system".

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

i understand what you're saying, and actually agree with not being worried about my hitch receiver coming off, but I'm still not sure what you're saying is the downside to connecting the cable to the frame. It will pull with any normal failure just as it would if connected to the eyelet, plus it will pull if the hitch becomes disconnected. I'm just confused, not arguing, on what you're saying.

[@scottmcdaniels3254]

@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS You said there are two important things to follow, regardless of where you decided to connect the end of the cable (I see no problem with connecting it to the frame of the tow vehicle if that makes you feel better).... For one of them you said the activation cable should be shorter than the chains so that the brakes go into emergency activation mode before the chains become tight. This is what I think is wrong and bad advice. As I said above, the emergency brakes should never activate unless the trailer has fully disconnected from the tow vehicle. I believe this is why the cable is typically quite long which is what gives you enough length to connect it to the tow vehicle frame, when it is really only meant to reach to the safety chain connection point on the vehicles receiver hitch.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

i get what you're saying now... personally, id rather the trailer brakes activate if it comes off the ball for this one reason: if the chains catch the tongue, you may not even know its been disconnected. you also still have the chance of the trailer running through the back of the truck if it becomes disconnected. thanks for your input and for watching Scott. Something definitely to note.

[@oshtoolman]

Just found your channel. Been towing for about 5 years now and found out I've been doing it pretty much right the whole time. Wish I would have found this sooner though. I already bought my snap pads. I could have had a 10% discount!!!!

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

sorry you didnt get the discount, but happy to have you here my friend!

[@danielanaya267]

Thank you for the video, I’ve pulled many trailers and yes the cradle method works ! I’ve witnessed it !

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

Glad to hear it, stay safe out there.

[@matthewcartwright5684]

Excellent points! I do have one question/though...when using my tongue jack to lift the truck 2 to 3 inches, its causing higher current thru the switch and charging the tongue jack switch contacts so once a year I have to disassemble the switch and take a finger nail file to the contacts. Am I doing something wrong or is this a common issue? Or should I replace switch with a higher current capacity switch?

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

i have not had to do this so I cant say. to be honest, there is enough play where the ball mount connects to the hitch receiver, that i dont really have to even lift my truck. the hitch moves with the trailer, but that little bit of play doesnt make the truck raise. once the truck starts to raise, i stop because thats high enough to easily connect the bars. see if that is the case on yours maybe?

[@stevecraig4536]

Tow a Palomino 27rbqc. 7,000 pounds wet. Went from a f150 to a 350 and a new hitch and don’t need the sway bars anymore. Those things are a pita. Love your videos and this is a helpful one.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

used to have a ram 1500, probably dont need the spring bars now with a 1 ton, but its already paid for. Thanks for watching bud, glad to have you here.

[@David-rp3mk]

Used to twist my chains if they were to long but won't any more. Thanks for good video

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

i got a new video coming out on this subject on 10/13. hope to see you there.

[@BornRaisedInCSA]

I noticed at 1:11 that your chains are connected at the same point on the tongue. Mine is the same way and because of that, never saw a benefit of crossing the chains. But I also noticed at 2:00... is that a hitch pin to try and create a cradle point in the chains that otherwise wouldn't be there because of where the chains are connected on the tongue?

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

the hitch pin is actually just on the chains because thats where I keep it when its not on the coupler, BUT you might be on to something!

[@doug6072]

Really great and very detailed video! Do you have any videos on adding an amplifier to a Toyhauler? I am very interested in doing this but need some guidance as the 12V wire run to power an amp would be pretty long. Would be really interested on your ideas and advice on ways to do this. Thanks for the great video!

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

i dont have any videos on amps right now, but there is this one that may come in handy: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqHYg3d9ea98fpo

[@TonsAFun15]

You've been my sherpa to campers, and continue with great videos! I have to ask, what is that you're using to crank down on the WD chains? I have a Blue Ox swaypro and hate the standard lever they give you with it.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

i use this breaker bar and a 1" socket: - amzn.to/4fJrsgI - amzn.to/4dGnQKp

[@CharlesinGA]

As far as connecting the 7 way, do it while you are there, so it does not become a forgotten item. DC current does not care how many sources are tied together, the truck 7 way, your converter (shore power supplied) or your solar, its OK for all of them to power the buss at the same time. Just don't forget the 7 way and the light check, which I do last.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

There is no problem with multiple charge sources to a 12volt battery other than not exceeding the charge profile of the battery. In fact you can have a solar panel array going to the battery(ies) plugged into shore with the converter on and have the 7pin and truck running. Here is what you have to figure. If it’s a single lead acid battery you don’t want to exceed a total charge of 40amps continuous. Lead acid batteries are like slow cookers. You cant charge them too fast otherwise they can swell. But if you have 2 or more then you probably don’t have enough charge sources to worry about. Im not big on converters because the preset logic as soon as you plug it in it will go into bulk charge for a longer time than necessary. Newer chargers that can do lithium or LA have logic that allows it to slow the charge quicker….but that’s another story. Bottom line. Watch out on multiple charge sources to 1 battery, go balls to the wall if there is more than 1.

[@DB-yj3qc]

I look at it in different way no hook to shore power and vehicle at same time. First disconnect shore power then hook up to vehicle. Not as a charging problem but to prevent forgetting to disconnect shore power. I've seen a few dragging their shore power cords and a time or two the stinky slinky hose. Most of the time it was in changing RV pad sites and distracted.

[@davidanway1249]

What is the best tow hitch to get? We are having a Apex Ultra-Lite 243FKS built for us and we have a F250 XL Crew Cab gas built for us and it only has 91 miles on it with a 8 foot bed! The Truck is only going to be used to pull the RV! The RV is 29.5 feet long and has a hitch weight of 810lbs. As You can tell, we are new at this and our fist long trip will be to pick up the travel trailer when it gets to the dealership and it passes the inspection that we are going to have done on it with an outside inspector! Sorry for the long rant. Thanks

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

wandering weekends has a ton of hitch review videos. check them out @WanderingWeekends

[@eaglescout1974]

@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS I used his videos to make the decision on our hitch

[@tedfisk1211]

All good information. Thanks for sharing and confirming that my hookup process is perfect.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

you bet!

[@orvillealdrich7601]

Great tips Ross! Have always connected safety chains from top but will be changing to come from the bottom 👌👍

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

the throat of the chain will rest against the eyelet should the chain be activated in either direction, but hooking from underneath is going to prevent the things i talk about in the video while driving. thank you for watching and glad it helped!

[@got2lb]

If you have a big enough truck or small enough camper are the torsion bars even needed? My truck has no squat when the ball is dropped down. I still run a sway bay.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

thats a good question, personally Ive never towed without one, but Ive heard from some folks who say with a big truck and little RV its not necessary. I can say this though, If im pulling anything bigger than a tear drop trailer, im going with a weight distribution hitch all day.

[@padro8523]

Something I have ran in to ok checking lights on the trailer. There a vehicles that use a different circuit path or module between the hazard switch and the turn signal switch. The hazards will work but turn signals won't.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

very true, but this is more about checking to make sure the actual bulb filaments (or led lights) on the trailer are good. Its perfectly fine to make sure your truck outputs are working, I just dont think its necessary every time. it would be weird if everyone checked their vehicle outputs every time before driving right? haha, imagine seeing a parking lot full of people walking around their car at Lowes lol.

[@markgassman6252]

Did you build that storage compartment under your entrance door or was that a standard feature.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

amzn.to/3SWMr5W

[@campingforever2879]

Chains first, brilliant. Sometimes common sense isn’t common.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

👍

[@DB-yj3qc]

I would add last thing to disconnect. A personal experience, RV pad had a slight pitch and very smooth concrete with some dust on it. Wheel chocks started sliding jack came off block rolling a few feet enough for jack to be bent. Had to cut off and replace jack.

[@adeserti]

Good video. Just curious about the 110 volts. My area has 120 volts since 1968. Why do people still call it 110 v?

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

just old habits.

[@timpreistman1583]

Ross, your honest thoughts on connecting the brake cable to the hitch? I would think most RVers are not worried about the hitch becoming detached from the truck, but there is nowhere on my truck to connect without the brake cable being too high under the bumper. My fear is it will get caught on the bumper and cut.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

yeah, im with the folks who arent worried about the hitch getting ripped off too. If something rips my hitch off, its probably going to be such a catastrophic event that my trailer is going to be in pieces and not rolling anywhere... the correct way is to the frame... if you cant find a spot where you get a straight line, i dont mind connecting to the hitch, but it is correct on the frame. It is however 50 state legal to run it to the hitch though.

[@Jim_Berry]

Why is the hitch and ball extended by a foot or more? Does that type of hitch carry more weight? Sorry, looking to buy my first travel trailer and trying to learn. Great video! First time watching your channel.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

what do you mean extended? back, or down?

[@Jim_Berry]

@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS Extended back.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

thats just how everything is built. There's no adjustments on the shaft, thats just how far back this hitch is designed.

[@eduardomerced90]

Hi. Thank you for youe valuable videos!!! I am always learning. I have a brand new rv (2025). I noticed when I'm depressing the truck brakes, the trailer brakes are not doing his job. I used a brake controller tester, and the lights are indicating everything is fine with the truck. Is there something I can try at home before taking the RV to the dealer? I don't understand that a brand new rv presents brake issues when this is a safety issue!!! This is my third RV and I never had brake issues before. Blessings

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

have you changed the settings on your brake controller? theres a lot of factors here, some of which we can disregard (for now at least), like the condition of the brakes. if you are coasting at 20 mph, you should be able to squeeze the brake controller and it should slow down and stop the trailer and the truck without hitting the truck brakes.

[@andyevans2336]

I remember when a friend of mine neglected to ensure that he had inserted the reciever lock bar for his hitch when connecting his new trailer. He managed to leave the resort, pull out onto the hiway and make it almost a 1/2 mile before the hitch and trailer said 'bye bye'. Guess where the saftey brake cable was also connected? Fotunately, everything managed to gently roll/slide/coast to a stop in the lane and after some embarasment, was correctly attached and the rest of the trip was much less eventful.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

im surprised it doesnt happen more often! thanks for sharing Andy!

[@bigtimejabroni]

Always double check the stabilizer jacks. I use jack stands for the front of my trailer. I forgot to remove them and couldn't figure out why the tongue wasn't dropping on the ball. Pulled forward and backed up 3 times before my mother-in-law noticed... ouch! Never heard the end of it! 🤣😂🤣

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

glad it worked out bud, but I'm betting you regret knowing someone else saw it 🤣

[@dethmaul]

AHA! 2:50, thanks for that. I always figured that clasp down is safer, since more hook is engaged with the reciever. If the trailer comes down, it will tug downwards. I didn't think about the clasp being damaged and unhooked, that's a great lesson.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

👍

[@michaelspencer4152]

I've always wondered if I should be connecting the 7 pin when the vehicle is off or is it ok that the vehicle is running. I try to make a habit of shutting the truck off before connecting.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

same principle of turning off breakers before unhooking shore power I guess... probably wont matter because the voltage is so low, but I would guess turning off the truck first would be "technically" correct.

[@RodKrisBisdakMotovlog]

Very informative and useful to those who have RV. Great tips and sharing sir

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

Glad it was helpful!

[@pkk6428]

Nice video. I have a 2018 ram 1500 2x4 towing a 8x16 enclosed trailer. My son in law gave me an Anderson anti sway set up. I haven't installed it yet. Any suggestions for it. Thanks

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

if you are able, they are fairly easy to install, there should be an install video on KZbin for your specific hitch. If not, and any trailer or rv shop can install it on the frame.

[@pkk6428]

Thanks

[@NAMULTISS]

Just wondering i have a 2008, 30’ travel tonight i hooked up as usual but my running lights didn’t stay on due corrosion, can i put anything on the connection point to keep from this happening again. I had to pull over right at dusk and clean the contacts points. Maybe dielectric grease or something like that but not sure what I can use?

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

dielectric grease isnt to clean connections, its an insulator, not a conductor... this stuff is good for cleaning terminals:amzn.to/3U95o5Z also, here is a video that talks about it a little more: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpeyfXWKoNGhftE

[@bruceprichard2996]

Thank you for your to-the-point, concise explanation. Good information ... BTW - I have the snap pads for my trailer per your recommendation

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

Glad it was helpful!

[@bentleydawg8573]

Great video. No myths, just facts. Thank you!

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

thanks bud, hope it helped.

[@SilverStarHeggisist]

Thanks for showing the chain test, something I didn't know and the test makes it very clear.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

No problem!

[@glenf4115]

I cross the chains twice (or more) if they are too long but never twist them individually.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

👍

[@r.j.2571]

I'm confused, I thought it was a pretty good idea to remove the power cable before plugging the rv into the truck (never thought of that), but when you were testing the running lights of your rv, your power cable was hooked up to your rv? So, should someone remove the power cable or not?

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

It was not connected at the outlet.

[@stuartkcalvin]

01:15 the tongue is on the vehicle. The receiver is on the tongue. The hitch is on the towed item. If I walked into a shop and asked for a tongue, they'd bring out a piece that inserts into the square tubing on the tow bar that mounts the ball or DO35/45 or receiver - what else can it do but receive a hitch? I'm from Australia, I suspect that we don't have our terminology upside down - even though we're Down Under. I'm here because the Algorithm worked - subscribed and liked.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

not here my friend. the front of the trailer is the tongue... thats why its called a tongue jack. the hitch is what goes on the truck.

[@Chevy-hw6lw]

Ross you are the man ! We love ya !

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

thank you, glad to have you here!

[@verticombbeehives7362]

Good advice. An often overlooked item, that was not done in this video also, is to grease the ball - including on the bottom sides of the ball! Over time an ungreased ball will wear away the coupler to the point that the ball will literally drop out of the coupler. And chrome balls are no exception. They require grease too. Reese even sells lubricant. A rusty ball on the coupler is even worse. Some will disagree, which is fine, but would they put new greasable ball joints on their truck (which are sealed from dirt - unlike the coupler) and not put grease in them?

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

I don’t disagree with you on a little grease on the ball to keep the coupler working, but please understand this is hitching up process video, not a hitch maintenance video. But I do appreciate the input. I will have a hitch maintenance video coming soon!

[@nifty4859]

You mentioned crossing your chains and in theory this will hold the hitch. Sorry to say this is not what happens in reality. I can safely say that I will never again cross my chains. This is for safety reasons. Crossing chains will never catch the hitch and can be demonstrated by holding the chains as if they were connected to the truck hen pull up and away with force to mimic what really happens when you have a failure and the trailer disconnects. Yes, This happened to me when towing a trailer with a dozen canoes, the hitch failed, the trailer hitch separated the chains and dug into the unsealed road resulting with the trailer flipping. Never cross your chains. I now use a hammer lock or shackles to join the two chains at a point under the hitch (ball). This guarantees catching the hitch. When you turn corners the chains pivot at the shackles joining the chain. The result is you can have shorter chains. Try it out, it’s simple. Cross your chains, hold them as if you are the truck, then mimic a disconnect by pulling away and up with force. Every time I did this the chains went either side of the hitch resulting in the trailer going down the full length of the chain. This is not safe. Now try doing this will hammer locks or shackles joining the two chains under the tow hitch. The shackles hold the tow hitch resulting in a much shorter drop. Having said that this is a great video and provides great advice for everyone. Well done.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

👍

[@loganl7547]

Sometimes the hitch lock can bind because of rust on the ball and/or the plate that slides under the ball, don't grind material off either obviously, but smoothing out the rough rusty stuff can make a difference in how easily your hitch lock binds. I've also heard (but am unsure) that if the angle of the hitch is too extreme (like if the trailers flat but the trucks on a hill) that the lock wont slide under the ball easily. Unfortunately those locks are far easier to disengage than to engage.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

A little rust free and a scuff pad will clean the rust right off the ball: amzn.to/4cxtFJl

[@CMunkeey]

One thing I started doing recently is that I put E brake on and truck in neutral when I connect. My rig is a 20k lb 5th wheel on a goose ball.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

👍

[@michaelmappin4425]

I towed a TT for 78K miles at max truck towing capacity. My Pro Pride hitch saved me on many occasions. Worth it.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

have only heard good things about that hitch.

[@michaelmappin4425]

@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS Expensive and heavy, but the anti-sway and load distribution were amazing. Also, unless a thief had access to the receiver portion, it makes theft almost impossible. Hensley also makes one.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

definitely. right now im towing a 7500lb trailer with a 6.7L Cummins 3500, a bit overkill I realize, but i cant even tell its back there. we will be getting a larger rv next year so i might have to look into the ProPride.

[@michaelmappin4425]

@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS With a 3500, you should be good on any TT. I was using a 1500 diesel and a 9500 lb trailer. 😬

[@waynehogue2499]

Great video, precise and to the point. Thanks

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

Glad it was helpful!

[@WatchnItMove]

The meat (strongest point of the hook) is the reason I agree with you. Hooks should always come from the underside of the hitch receiver hook loops always. Because, if you if you ever end up pulling a trailer by the chains (hooks, hopefully never) then you're pull from the strongest part if the hook not the weakest ... For almost any hook, a great way to know which way the hooks gets seated is if you think of yourself doing a pull up from Strap, chain, rope, whatever perspective .. these become your forearms .. which way do you want your hands (hooks) when you go to pull yourself up? sure you can do it either way but ... thats not the question, question is .. which way is safest? So again, I agree with you ... I just hope this explanation helps others to agree with you..

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

thank you for the comment my friend!

[@craigmozer]

When connecting to tow vehicle I was always taught to put one safety chain clasp "over " passenger side and one "under " drivers side incase trailer breaks free from hitch jamming up under your bumper when breaking potentially breaking free from the clip lever..and especially if theres only one safety chain on a trailer to always put towards passenger side so in the event of a break free from hitch, trailer will pull towards passenger side instead of on coming traffic side avoiding a possible collision. Via the Commercial Drivers License handbook rules for CDL test..

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

Thanks for sharing Craig, however I dont know of any RV manufacturer outfitting the trailer with 1 chain. The regulations vary depending on the state, some states require at least one, many require 2 chains. And because these are moving from state to state, thats probably why they all come with 2 chains.

[@grantdevries8648]

I was told by what I would consider a very reliable source to have your vehicle in neutral, for much of the hook up process. Said you're pulling horribly on the vehicles transmission when in Park with the E brake on. That there's incredible torque on your transmission in the hook up process. That being in neutral takes that issue away. Complete newbie. I've only had 5 trips so 10 hookups total. Let me know if I'm missing something. The way I've been looking at it, is I'm hooking it up floating so to speak. Compared to locked in with high toque, possibly pulling on my transmission. Love to hear your/peoples opinion on this

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

The parking pawl locks your transmission. There’s more torque on your transmission when you are pulling the trailer up a hill. PLEASE, for the love of God, please don’t hook up in neutral. You’re going to KILL someone when your truck and trailer rolls away.

[@grantdevries8648]

@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS first off captain obvious. Yes of course there is more torque on your tranny when pulling uphill. Secondly it's in neutral once the hitch is locked down. Let's not be a drama queen alright

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

You asked for answers, I gave you one, and you’re calling me “captain obvious.” That’s a clear sign your “question” is a joke. Because I don’t want people who are here to learn to get hurt or killed, I’m going to delete your comment. If you ask for answers, get them, and then decide to respond with an ignorant comment, there is no need for you comment in the first place. I hope you find what you’re looking for.

[@randallkoch2659]

@@grantdevries8648 you’re source is an idiot nothing is pulling or pushing on your trans when the RV is chocked. omg I can’t stop laughing torque on your truck transmission better get your advice elsewhere bro

[@phamwin3296]

Ummmm, how do I say this nicely? Your reliable source is messing with you.

[@Hitman-ds1ei]

Those extended hitches are a blight on towing, not only do they magnify the load onto rear suspension thru lever ratio but also promote sway and sway steer, keep your ball as close to your bar as possible, get a specific hitch if necessary and stop using those adjustable crap, one thats short as possible with vehicle location to suit your vehicle and trailer is a top investment for your families safety !

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

Hey bud, im sensing a little confusion based on your comment, so I'd like to take a second to help you understand what you're looking at. This is not an extended hitch by any means, it is called a weight distribution hitch, and there is ZERO adjustment on how far the hitch extends. There is only 1 hole for the receiver locking pin. These are designed to be used with travel trailers. I'm a bit confused what type of hitch you think should be used instead of something like the Blue Ox Sway Pro, or any standard WDH with spring bars. They are all going to extend from the truck like this. Second, this hitch does not magnify the load on the rear suspension, the spring bars actually distribute the weight more equally as to not have as much weight dead center on the ball. Its pretty straight forward lever physics. Third, the payload capacity on this truck is over 4,000 pounds. The tongue weight of this trailer is less than 500 lbs, let me explain... just because its a 7000 trailer, doesnt mean its putting 7000 lbs of pressure on the truck. all the weight of the trailer is focused on the trailer axles, (again, lever physics) so the tonge is very light. Simple math right? The suspension of this truck can handle about 8 TIMES MORE weight than this trailer. Fourth, because this truck is so tall, you need a drop shaft to lower the ball. This drop shaft does not affect the length of the hitch because it is part of the weight distribution. It simply provides height adjustment so the trailer can be level while towing no matter what height the truck is at. I hope this helps you understand sway/weight distribution hitches a little more.

[@ShadowDragon246]

one thing I noticed you did not mention about the hook. yes the "direction of travel on the back" but you are putting the load on the "throat" of the hook or the strongest part of the hook. the other way you had it "the wrong way" is called tip loading and derates the hook and the weakest part of the hook. this I found out is only really thought in rigging courses, as a heavy equipment operator, I had to do a basic rigging course and this was one of the main points drilled into our heads, at the college I went to here in canada.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

glad to see your paying attention, I thought about mentioning this as another reason to connect from underneath while filiming the video, but decided to take it out. once the chains are activated, they are going to pull straight back on the hooks, and since the angle of the chain wont change reagardless of how the hook is connected, the throat of the hook will pull against the eyelet in both scenarios. thanks for the info and for watching!

[@TheFiremanJoe]

It is good idea to check the turn signals individually as well as the hazards.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

the goal here is to check the bulb filaments... i dont know why you would need to continuously check your trucks light outputs. once lights are wired, they are wired. i just dont see a need, just as i dont need to continuously check to see if my truck turn signals for correct wiring. Please share if there is something I'm missing.

[@TheFiremanJoe]

@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS if you check the left turn signal, you’ll know that the left is working properly. If you check the right turn signal you know that the right is working properly. For instance my truck had an issue a while back where when I signaled left the right side blinked and vise versa when I signaled right the left side blinked. There ended up be a recall for the turn signal switch. If you’re just turning the hazards on you won’t catch this problem.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

definitely makes sense that could happen, rare, but can happen.

[@IH-nr7dx]

Most of us use the same tow vehicle and the same trailer . Once the left and right is confirmed, the hazards and running lights check is sufficient. If one vehicle or the other is swapped out - sure, do a left and right signal check.

[@dylanhenkins8508]

For the trailer chain length issue. For years I just go to tractor supply and get the trailer chain hooks with the clip so you can remove them from the chains, and if my chains are long I can just shorten them up and have the extra hanging from that same clip, even doubled up the extra so it doesn’t hang so low or swing around much. Way better than twisting chains and allows for the same trailer to be used on different trucks with different chain length requirements

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

agreed!

[@jimgeorger4452]

Good suggestion about brake cable to frame.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

👍

[@katokagome4670]

You should also check each turn signal individually, if the wires are crossed (left is right and so on) hazards will not show that.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

the goal here is to check the bulb filaments... you can definitely check light switches individually, but I don’t see the need to continuously check your trucks light outputs. Once they are wired, they are wired. Just like check to see if your left turn signal works your left lights in the truck. Good idea in theory, but unless something is rewired, it’s unlikely going to flip around.

[@donaldfrazier5244]

Everything you said should be well known and understood by anyone who tows a trailer,if you don’t know just ask or leave it to the experienced person!

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

👍

[@leatherlung]

I completely remove my shore power cable and water lines BEFORE starting this entire process. You really don't want that kind of voltage or water pressure in the mix when you're shifting things around. If, for example, the trailer shifts and severs your shore power line, you now have a major electrical hazard.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

that is definitely something you can do as well. thanks for sharing.

[@danielblack4416]

Question….. my truck has a wdh with the solid sway bars on the side, when I bought my new travel trailer the dealer was setting everything up and called to my attention, since my truck has a 6in lift on it they had to raise almost the entire rearend off the ground to even get the bars on or off. Does this sound right to you or may they might have setup my wdh wrong?

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

im trying to visualize this in my head, and im thinking something is wrong with their installation. the bars in relation to the hitch have nothing to do with the height of the truck... meaning the hitch receiver should have a drop shank installed, and where the ball and bars are are always at the same height. the truck can be 20 feet in the air, but with a drop shank, everything should still be connecting at the height of the tongue when the trailer is level. make sense?

[@danielblack4416]

@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS yes it does. I do have the drop shank but I really think they installed it incorrectly in my opinion.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

when your trailer is connected to the truck, it should be level... the hitch receiver may be 20 feet in the air, but the hitch ball and sway bar connections points should be down with the trailer tongue. hope that helps. email me a side pic if you can of it connected on a level road: [e-mail]

[@danielblack4416]

@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS awesome. Will do tomorrow when I can. From my point of view the truck does look level when it’s hooked up but I will definitely get you some pics. Thanks for the reply!!

[@KnowDoFix1985]

Hi danielblack. I have a similar solid bar wdh (e2 hitch). Your dealer should have adjusted BOTH the height of the "landing points" on your A-frame, AND the height of the BALL on your hitch, so that the top of the BALL is about one inch above the bottom of the ball receiver on the A frame. The landing arms on the A frame should be about 26 inches back from the ball receiver, and these can easily be height adjusted to correct the bars' load bearing capacity. You can usually adjust these up or down with a torque wrench (about 70-75 ft-lb, typically). If the BALL HEIGHT on your truck is set correctly to the BALL RECEIVER on your trailer WHEN THE TRAILER IS LEVEL TO THE GROUND (not "bubble level," but GROUND level), you're set up correctly. When you raise the hitched combo of your truck and tongue jack to install the wdh bars, it can take almost full height of the tongue jack to get the bars engaged on the landings correctly (then pinned in). This can raise the back end of your truck a lot, whether lifted or not. My truck has a 2" lift, and the combo raises it about 5-6 inches to get the bars on. It doesn't quite get the back tires off the ground, but it seems close to doing so! That wdh hitch works beautifully. I had to readjust all of the dealership's (CW) installation and redo the wdh myself following the hitch manufacturers instructions (and had them on the phone to be sure I did it correctly). The only new tool I had to buy was a 250 ft-lb torque wrench for the main hitch bolts. Sounds like what you described is actually how it should be. Good luck.

[@roberthopper5102]

Great video. Thank you for your content.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

THANK YOU for always watching and commenting Robert! 🍻

[@JohnStright]

I always ensure my truck is turned off before connecting my trailer cable. For some reason if the truck is on when I connect, it does not transmit lights or brake signal to the trailer. I have to turn the truck off, pull the plug, put it back in and restart the truck. 2014 Sierra, 2016 GD Imagine.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

thats odd, never heard of that, thanks for sharing

[@paulhighbarger3356]

NEVER let anyone else between vehicle and trailer during moving,coupling and uncoupling. Last thing... ALWAYS last. Remove wheel chocks. Nothing like having a trailer roll out of your campsite 😳 Also, I wrap a small bungee cord around the chains and hook it onto the trailer hitch frame to keep chains high enough to keep them from snagging anything.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

👍

[@kclarkeadventures]

One thing I like to do once I lower hitch onto ball and close latch I try jacking up trailer to assure it is intact locked to ball. Back of tow vehicle raises up then I’m locked.

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

That is done in this video.

[@TheKlamminator]

Im new to this, thanks for a great video. Just bought our first travel trailer

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

have fun!

[@danielhirsch6013]

Excellent 💯👌👍

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

Thank you so much 😀