RX7 FC subframe removal and questions!?!?

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[@theballsick]

If you are not going very low on the suspension height I’d recommend the Mazda competition for the subframe bushings, but if you are going pretty low I’d go with the PBM solid subframe risers. Also installing a pinion snubber on the fc you plan on tracking is not a bad idea. Takes like 20 min and costs like $15! Great vid as always

[@MohrGarage]

I just ordered the parts! Thank you!

[@gasyourfriends]

Appreciate your struggle removing the rear end! Planning to drop my FD’s rear subframe this winter

[@MohrGarage]

Good Luck!

[@charlesrohrer667]

Replacement of toe or lateral links is pointless if you can use factory eccentric adjustments to achieve equal toe. When using solid bushings with spherical joints inplace of factory toe eccentrics, the adjustable lateral arms are required to adjust toe. The horizontal camber arm in the rear is useless overall with oem bushings but required and useful after changing the height of the subframe and diff. When you raise the subframe closer to the body, the oem arm becomes too long. Aftermarket adjustable required to shorten, adjustability useful with pivoting sub bushings. Replacing diff bushings, subframe bushings, links,mounts, etc. 1.Pbm diff riser and solid box mount 2.Pbm pivoting subframe bushings 3.pbm camber links 4.adjustable camber arm 5.suggest dts delete from racingbeat. Easier to install, can be installed with a balljoint press without removing knuckles from car/subframe. Pbm camber links achieve 1.2° camber adjustment. Not adjustable. Factory camber links may be fine to use if adjusting camber with the horizontal camber arm. Suggest pinion snub modification while diff is out of car.

[@MohrGarage]

Thanks for all the input! Forgot to mention I already have dtss delete installed. I am getting the pinion snub as well!

[@everzamora9031]

@@MohrGarage Do a video on pinion snub install

[@MohrGarage]

Yes I will when we transplant the sumbframe

[@JerryLH3]

For a street car, I second the Mazda Comp bushings. Mazdatrix still lists them on their site. Slightly stiffer than stock, but not solid. I wouldn't bother with adjustable camber arm or toe links if the alignment is already fine.

[@supradoom]

I had emailed Parts by max about the rear subframe and rear suspension asking for advice, and they really went all out on giving me info. Yes it helps them sell their products but it's that kind of customer service that makes me wanna get their products. I'm new to FC's so I just want to thank you for the info as well.

[@Gabrielized.]

The PSM Toe Links are great quality. Just threw then on my FC. I also ordered and installed the PSM Spherical Rear Trailing Arm Bushing to keep the arm from binding. I didn't find any poly kits for the rear subrfame or Diff. I found some derlin ones on Ebay but haven't heard much feedback about the company. Can't go wrong with RB sway bar and endlinks. In terms of the center "camber link" the RB ones appears to be the most adjustable. For the small camber "jangle rods" Ronin Speedworks offers a kit to help you either eliminate or reduce the excess camber you get from lowering the car, granted it's based on your preference.

[@FLYBOY-eh5th]

The diff looks like one of those terminator flying machines.

[@theballsick]

Sadly it doesn’t seem like any company makes a poly mount for the front dif mount. I’ve been looking for one myself. I’ve tried both the Mazda competition dif mount as well as the PBM solid dif mount and I really wish there was something in between.

[@MohrGarage]

Thanks for the info!