WORST RC RACE CAR EVER?? Part 2 - Wltoys 104001

[@CultureDissent]

Apologizing and having humility is what makes me respect people. Self reflection and having the ability to articulate your recognition of fault is how people can truly accept that apology. I commend you 💪🏼🇺🇸

[@Kbunk_Youth_Football_Wrestling]

It's pretty funny that the hobby shop guy basically said that the AE's RTR is nearly the same as the WLToys car. He's definitely of the mindset that to walk on to a track you gotta spend $800 to $1,000 upfront.

[@TheRcKiwis]

Excellent conclusion. Loved your example with the kid wanting a TLR or something like that, dad checks out the price...😱 Then comes across the 104001, looks close and fits the bill. 🍻

[@asmaxxfz6]

The best review I have ever seen of 104010 / 104002. I want to buy 104002, its cheap for me +- 200$, but after Your review I realised that is a lot of things to improvement to start racing on track...heh thanks a lot

[@MapleNachiman]

The off brand RCs are what they are. I wasn't sure I wanted to get into hobby and bought one. It was a great introduction to the hobby in front of my house and at the park. Along the way I met a local club that races 1:10 short course trucks. So now getting into racing I picked up the Team Associated Pro4 SC10 ready to run. Its not the fastest but neither am I and it has been great so far for learning to race. Once I can get around the track cleanly and competitively than I'll look at upgrading it or maybe building an expensive kit.

[@kentsupermad7145]

I don't think anyone who buys this rc is intended to race it.

[@MattyS02]

Incorrect. Literally had someone post to our local track's FB page this week having bought a similar car and wants to come and race when Covid restrictions have lifted.

[@kentsupermad7145]

@@MattyS02 i hope at least the car will be modified. Please let me know the result 👍🏻

[@EricFalkDesign]

...actually you'd be surprise how many people show up w/ these types of cars purchased off eBay to go race. I see it at our track every few months during race season.

[@marlenhunter153]

You’d be surprised

[@Commander_ZiN]

@@MattyS02 I hope you let him race, why not? Do you have low end classes for beginners? Years ago I doubt any of the RC cars were as refined or expensive as they are today. People might of never considered racing until they get one of these to play with. I don't think anyone considering racing first would go out and get one of these. None of the reviews I saw were recommended it for racing. If someone gets one then decides they might want to start racing, I think it's a good thing, everyone needs to start somewhere.

[@darkki94]

1. No one will buy this and think they can race it stock ! it's an entry level car a.k.a first RC car. 2. Even with a brushless conversion 100-110$ it's still cheaper than other 1/10 models 3. The point about the battery and charger not charging fast enough applies to ALL CARS you buy not just that one 4. Ride height can be adjusted in 5 minutes with 4x screws 5. Dog bones can be upgraded to CVD's ( 4 of them are about 10$ ) and all parts are cheap 6.This is not a racing model , it's made to have fun with. A kid with 150$ saved can have this and use it and not have to save for a year more to buy a 500$ race spec car. 7.Wltoys brand is so big now that RC shops SHOULD start selling parts for them ! 8. The Team Assosiated RTR car the shop owner showed ALSO need shock+motor+ESC+servo+radio to be upgraded to race , same as the 104001. Edit : my bad the №4 is only for the smaller model 124019 ( 1/12 scale), looks like you can't easily adjust them on the 1/10 scale.

[@RCKickschannel]

Some interesting points Ryan and it was fascinating to see it from an RC racer perspective and how that influenced you at first. I could debate this topic for hours on does it have a place in the RC hobby and why would someone ever purchase one of these products. I personally have the WLToys 018, 019 and 001 and I love my 019 for the money. It's small, super quick and perfect for blasting around a small garden track for fun with no worries about expensive replacement parts. You can't say a Team Associated RB10 RTR at what, $300+ (not including battery ) is an option for someone who is looking at a $100-$130 RTR. Another way to look at it and probably a bit more relevant. I have $150 and I really want to have fun with an RC buggy at the park and in my garden, what RTR would you recommend I get? Keep up the great work Ryan, big fan. Gavin

[@dirtybauer7022]

i got 2 losi mini Bs and love them. got a nice figure 8 track setup and we blast them around with their little brushed motors. got em on sale a couple weeks ago for veterans day at 112 bucks each.

[@areldcookie5581]

Ikr, he only views it in the racer perspective LMAO kinda stupid tbh

[@Commander_ZiN]

You can get other 5 wire servos. You can probably also solder in a plug for the lap timer pretty easy. However the DumboRC transmitter will get rid of the delay and their new brushless models have descrete components and 3 wire servos etc so much better choice. Edit: Yes, sway bars are available online. Edit2: I wouldn't really call it disposable, plenty of really cheap parts for them online. Not really for racing. However if my kids took it to the track and it broke I could probably fix it at the track and we'd certainly not let it stop us trying again. If you had a seperate class for lower end cars it might even be an extremely cool experience. Your chat in the shop really showed your group really only has their experiences in mind and aren't open to entertaining other experiences. If he gets asked once a week for parts maybe he should consider stocking some. A store near me didn't stock mini z's a decade ago, they said no demand, now they do. They may even be used in a race scene in China, who knows. I wouldn't get one for getting into racing. However if you got one for fun, maybe it would lead to racing if people were more open to it. Edit3: I've seen many reviews online, after already purchasing a 144010 after a recommendation and a single website review, I've not seen one of those reviews that recommended it for racing. They all mentioned it was durable, things do break but I was suprised how tough it is. I think it's designed to play around with at the park etc. I don't think too many consider it a racer, but some might consider racing because of it. Pretty much most of the reviews mention the diff and shock issues and to put lube in them. You also wouldn't recommend a racer car just for playing with at a park. I appreciate your follow up video, but I don't think the RC racing hobby started at the elite level it is today. Pretty sure it barely exists where I live. Maybe consider opening it up for low end racing if you want it to grow.

[@widgettius2872]

I think this video hilights a fundamental divide in the RC hobby space; the gap between RTR and Self Build Kits. I do not believe this gap is limited to RC car racing but to the RC hobby as a whole. The gap I am talking about is the relatively inexpensive RTR option verses the much more expensive kit build options. This price gap creates a significant barrier to entry that turns people away form the hobby. Mark Santa Maria hosted a summer camp at the end of July (that I had wished I had known about sooner) that made an attempt at minimizing this barrier by offer a roller build kit with an electronics package at a very reasonable price point. I firmly believe that there is a market out there for a version of a build kit with an electronic package at a price point a little higher than current RTR packages that could offer a better foot in the door for those new the the hobby with an interest in racing without breaking the bank having to purchase everything separately.

[@ralphlongo1975]

WAY back in the day nearly all RC vehicles came in kit form, in the late 90's you could still buy Traxxas kits of their same RTR vehicles. It does seem like basic kits that have turned into RTR's have hurt the racing hobby. Because the way the classes are set up means you have to replace a bunch of the electronics immediately anyway, so there is absolutely a huge gap. That's kind of why I see stuff like this as a cheap chassis, rather than a vehicle that is ready to run. Basic chassis kits would be huge for racing again, it would help out a lot.

[@GregVandenBosch]

You are describing exactly what I'm looking for. I don't have enough time to put into racing to justify buying a top end car and electronics. But I also don't want to bring my old traxxas bandit to try racing. Really wish there was some happy medium solution.

[@Commander_ZiN]

I imagine if you go back far enough all the RC race cars were probably worse the current offerings from WLtoys. You can certainly race them. I really think they just need to offer lower end classes if they want more people to get into the RC race hobby. Otherwise people will just do what they did before the racing scene took off, which is fine too.

[@Synic08]

I dont really know where youd be racing, as a beginner.. 1-2 years of experience… you cant tell me a b4RS is going to hold you back… if you think that .01 that the FT car would get you is where you need to improve, then your not winning mains.

[@AmalgamRPS]

Overall, I agree with your initial assessment, and it is nice to see you take note of criticism and address it openly. However, I think you owe this thing one more track test, with a slightly more even playing field. I would be really curious to see how it performed with the proper tires. This wouldn’t change any of the issues that plague the car overall, but it would be interesting to see how much the lap times improved.

[@philiplibby7536]

I agree I'd like to see that myself

[@stevesmith9646]

I would agree he is probably running a 150 dollars motor in his track buggy alone let alone at least 80 to 100 for tires and a 80 dollar servo. Now make this car even remotely comparable and then race them. I would like to see that.

[@MattyS02]

How far do you go though? Tyres? Shock fluid? Diff fluid? But then it's still not "even" because it's running a brushed motor... could change that? But then you need to change the ESC, which has an inbuilt receiver so you need a new radio setup. Then the servo won't connect to that receiver so the servo needs to change.... The battery doesn't quite last a full run now, better change that too....

[@philiplibby7536]

@@MattyS02 true for someone that afford it but I. Pretty sure he's got all that right there but yea I understand what you're saying

[@MattyS02]

@@philiplibby7536 Yeah, but not even for the expense of the exercise, no doubt Ryan has all the parts there to do it, but to what degree would you have to go to in the spirit of the test to make it "level". By that point it's not the same car, even if all the upgrades are free.

[@RConmyMind]

Great review! BTW: the A arms are a 1:1 copy from XB4 and the XB4 sway bars fit.

[@eze562]

This is what the hobby is all about learning and sharing our knowledge and having fun … my kids LOVE the 104001 and the 124019 they know is not a top of a line rc car but is not garbage either and they have put them tru hell at the local track .. so far just a bended dog bone on the 124019 got replacement tru Amazon within 2 days ..

[@afrewer94]

The way that kind of servo works, is there is only a motor and potentiometer inside the servo. The ESC/RX combo is doing the position control that usually takes place inside the servo itself. This makes the servo cheaper but also makes it nonstandard.

[@xNmMmAx]

always wondered about that.

[@areldcookie5581]

Nice info

[@ultrarcgasolina9890]

Top

[@chrisgorman216]

I'm going to say one thing, I'm a physicist for the DoD (I do okay for myself), I didn't want to spend $600 on an RC car to take to the local track and hit some jumps. I paid $95 for my 104001 off of Ebay. As soon as I got it, I took it completely apart and went through everything, just something I do. Found some issues (lubrication of systems that have high mechanical wear areas, loose screws, ect. Basic shit.) After fixing some of the basics, I started evaluating the "upgrades" I could do with the given platform. This thing is endless if you take the time to do some market research and apply some basic technical skills. You can very easily improve this RC car with a little money and still be much less than the name brands and have just as much fun. Its all about application. I've put about $100 in mine and it's doing just fine. Just my TC.

[@skylar1112]

I don't have one of these but I am familiar with wltoys and their format. I think you redeemed yourself. I think this video was objective and you tried not to be biased. I do realize that you come from racing pov. I agree with you, I did buy a wltoys, it got me back into the hobby after a 7 year hiatus. I ended up buying x-ray, Losi and lc racing. Thanks for the update. Appreciate it

[@skylar1112]

@Daft Donkeys I'm an 80s kid too. Have 2 Blackfoot from that time. Then wild Dagger and ta01 from the 90s. I was out of the hobby since 2014, wltoys got me back in.

[@dallascuevas3150]

I have been watching your videos since right after Christmas. I have rekindled my love for this hobby after a 10 year hiatus. You are my go to watch for all aspects of racing. I am so impressed with your character. Thank you for everything you do for a sport in need of a great spokesman like yourself.

[@aadlen]

Can you do a follow-up with the local hobby shop showing what entry level race cars that can make it through 2 qualifiers and a main are available for sale VS buying a disposable rc car

[@ralphlongo1975]

The main issue is there's not a real in between, you have the name brands which are higher dollars, then you have cheap knockoffs like Wltoys makes. This particular buggy could be raceish ready, with a parts bin for the stuff that breaks, for probably around 4 to 500 dollars. It would still probably be the slowest on the track but you could make it work.

[@EricFalkDesign]

@Daft Donkeys I agree, even w/ on-road racing ...if you don't want to spend money and/or aren't sure if this hobby is for you, you can get a Tamiya TT-02 for $100. They are race-worthy for novice classes and even VTA class. You can't go wrong as parts support is great and it is very easy to upgrade the car. When your ready to move up you can still use that Tamiya as a basher. I'd highly recommend the Tamiya TT-02 or TT-02B (on road or dirt) as an entry level car if your budget is under $200 (this will get you a car, transmitter and battery). Upgrading will be easy and if something breaks there are plenty of parts and most guys at the track will be able to help you out.

[@sethralphs2815]

Ryan, Thank you for doing this video. I was also a bit tweaked off with part 1. And thanks for making really high quality content. Keep it up and I'll keep watching. 😃

[@fullarmourtracksuit4023]

This video is on point. I recently bought a HSP 1/10 buggy with the intention of trying racing and quickly realised the quality just isn’t there. Already had to pull out and replace the steering servo. The good part is by having to do that I’m learning how to maintain the car. I’m going to use this car to practice steering the car around the track consistently, and then upgrade it once I’m competent at pointing it in the right direction.

[@N8_Spec]

Love the mindset here man. You've 100% got the right idea but, as soon as you can I'd upgrade the radio system with something that has known good response. These rebranded flysky things that come with hsp and redcat make it more difficult than you would think to do what you're trying to do. Also, don't worry, this is a problem that plagues nearly all rtr vehicles throughout the industry. Quick story to give you an idea: we had a guy come into our shop and ask what we think would be a decent "try it to see if I like it" sort of vehicle to race on our carpet offroad track. We told him we could get him a Losi 22S SCT and that although it's rear motor, he could learn how to get around the track with it and move up to a more carpet oriented kit if he ends up sticking with it. So it comes in on practice day and he comes down and picks it up, along with a battery and a charger and went home to charge it and came back later when the track opened. He was the first guy on the track so I was able to watch him run a little before the pits started filling up. Let's just say I was thinking "uh oh, I hope he doesn't get discouraged right away" because he at least appeared as if he might've gone the whole night before completing a lap without going off track or crashing. Then I noticed that the radio that came included with it was a Spektrum STX 3... I had driven with one in the past after regretfully selling one to a coworker for his son's car. It has arguably worse response than a hsp rtr radio so I said "I don't think this is all you man" and "let me take a lap with that thing and show you how bad it makes me look too 😂." Needless to say, I couldn't keep it between the pipes either. Another local offered up a dx2e and an actual dsmr receiver for $40, so he bought it, we swapped out the receivers, bound it up, and he went out there and drove 5 clean laps right off the bat before a marshall was needed. The message here is, you need to be connected to the car in order to be able to improve your ability or else you'll spend all your track time trying to learn where you need to start steering before corners to make the car follow the racing line.

[@fullarmourtracksuit4023]

@@N8_Spec I hear you. I can steer it ok, just not consistent yet but I think it’s me not the equipment. What isn’t me is the laggy throttle and lack of speed but I have my sights set on the upcoming Associated RB10 RTR as the next step up. I know it’s not a race spec buggy but it will be a definite improvement on the HSP brushed.

[@kentsupermad7145]

There is no hobby shop in many places. The on line things are more approachable than most of the big brand cars and parts. I believe it is why these things got popular too.

[@robertchanrussell2010]

Some shops don't want to help newbies unless they are willing to spend $500+. I always check reviews and there are too many shops that do that. Give the reality of racing. I am a guitarist. I have some cheap guitars and many expensive ones. I would not bash someone who's just starting or be dismissive because they can't afford $700 for a decent gigable guitar. I would let them know, if you wanna gig and stay in tune, you'll need to upgrade the cheapo's tuners, nut, probably the bridge, and likely the electronics if you want decent sound. That's hundreds right there. But if you don't plan on gigging, maybe just learning, jamming in a garage then enjoy your cheap guitar and get used to tuning frequently. Once you're ready if you want, consider a better instrument, even used, be patient but LEARN about the instrument before buying used! Then you'll know what you're buying! Snobby stuff is a great way to prevent sales.

[@EthanSmith48]

The humility, the tone, and attitude of this video on top of being candid about the car is just so refreshing. Amazing.

[@seanwilson9117]

With any grown up hobby/fun purchase, I've always budgeted 300% of the purchase price because that's about what it usually takes to get it sorted out. That being said, the knock off Chinese stuff is getting a ton better and Wltoys in particular is pretty good about parts availability. I have mostly Kyosho and Traxxas stuff but bought at 124018 on a whim and it's not bad, especially with the upgrade kit.

[@garygallant5390]

This is what’s upsetting to some people - the overseas stuff have gotten a lot better.

[@ThatKoukiZ31]

The REAL problem is this car gives people with small budgets false hope. The vast majority of these get 1-5 runs in before they break and never run again. They get told by racers or hobby store owners nicely or not what this and the last video is about. That the electronics all need replaced, or it'll be more expensive than its worth or to buy parts from the place they bought the car. Which is hard to do, takes forever and its the same sub standard parts they started with. So they see the racers hit stuff go super fast and still race all day with no problem. So most of those low budget people get turned away from racing just because these chinse brands and advertising makes it seem its 1/2-1/4 the price and just as good. A few of those people might buy race quality stuff but thats rare. Hell I helped someone at the track that bought a used T6.1 and it had the steering servo put in wrong and was loose in the truck. I fixed them up, used screws from my spare (had plenty of course) and they could start to drive around the track. It had a sensorless motor/esc so they changed that out and could start improving their driving. They eventually got a TLR 22x4 and did race for a while. So that turned out better but they had more money to spend, but someone like me really had to sit down with them and go through it and show them how to fix it right. We just need to really build a better path into the hobby.

[@ChrisVegas1000]

yupp thats the issue

[@Skwoop21]

I definitely appreciated the last video, but have gain a larger sense of appreciation for your perspective after this video. Thanks and keep being honest, yet humble. I am new to all of this by the way.

[@swerv512]

I rescind my comments on part 1 after seeing this more thorough review. Kudos to you Ryan for taking the time to film a sequel to part 1.

[@mgscheue]

Excellent. Just the sort of thing I was hoping for. Thanks for reading the comments for the first video.

[@ejcourtemanch2689]

I think a lot of tracks would benefit from having a newbie class of some sort. When I was a kid, my local on-road track had a stock TT-01 class. This was a great class to get started because the TT-01 was in that $100-200 range and was easy to get parts for. At my local hobby shop, when new people come in and ask, "how can I start racing?", I always start out by explaining just how expensive it is because everything is just competitive 2wd/4wd buggy (or TC for on-road). For off-road, where's the stock traxxas slash (or, hell, bandit, for tracks that are concerned with damage cause by SCTs). For on-road, wheres the stock TT-02 class? Its hard for people to want to put the large investment into the hobby in the beginning before they know they enjoy it. I think every track would benefit from having some form of newbie/sportsman class featuring a decent cheap rtr vehicle. These classes are great for both new drivers and children. The vehicles to make these classes do exist from trusted brands like Traxxas (freaking tanks for cars), Associated, Losi (what about the 16th scale rtr cars they make for like $250). If people could come to the hobby shop and see that they could spend a couple hundred bucks and go racing with other similarly-skilled individuals, it would be easier to retain them. Then, once they come to the track a couple times and race their cheap car, watch the faster guys with their cars, they might feel more confident investing more money.

[@HL-OOI]

I still remember my Grasshopper in the 80s....life is simple back then and we had fun..searching for dogbones, charging nimh with car battery..etc

[@dannynewman2790]

Upgrade the cheap screws and such and take it to the track as a back up for any new racer that may have thr same cheap rtr setup

[@barfly246]

u cant ask a hobby shop owner.. he doesn't sell it, but if you buy that car just make sure u order a lot of the spare parts with it . i have one all set up brushless with all the extra parts for under $250.. its not a bad buggy.. order a bunch of rear tie rods and front axles they are only $3.50 for the pair.. lol

[@Speedoutrc]

You should buy an Lc racing it’s a higher quality wltoys and still cheap

[@PercyVRing]

Redemption! Thank you, Ryan. Please keep making videos. Lesson learned, if you may is to look at the overall performance which is not all about lap times, but also durability and tunability. If you changed the tires and springs (easy to do) and showed us that it runs decently but couldn’t finish a race, there’s no need for a part 2 video. All the best!

[@matts3690]

Building a LTR myself and through watching your videos I have learnt heaps so far. You are a great asset to new RC builders/hobby members. Have to add that from a KZbin channel in the UK, FTX seems to be well regarded. The two guys are old school racers and are just promoting grass roots racing for new comers. As for this video, as a PC builder ex gamer this buggy presents like a pre-build from a major computer company for example DELL, special parts and limited upgrade paths without complete replacement. Different company, same business angle - keeping it in house.

[@dtrain8335]

Bang for the buck its hard to beat this thing for $160! It's not fair to compare it to hobby grade cars that cost twice as much. Thats not what this was designed to compete with. In its price point you can't beat it honestly. No one buys these thinking they are going to dominate at the local track.

[@MalcySP]

Well done on this video Ryan. This is why you are good to watch, honest, humble and genuine.

[@paolo922]

And uneducated! The car is a copy of the XRAY xb4 2018.

[@jshurd]

Oh wo wrong!

[@richard-sim]

Thanks for the change in this video, it's very much appreciated. I'm glad that you understand why so many were upset and have taken it as a opportunity to learn and grow. This is definitely the video that needed to be made with regards to the car - honest, showing the real (major) issues, and calling out disingenuous reviews of it which will harm those who follow their advice. I'm really curious what's up with that servo though, with the 5 wires?! I'd love to see a teardown of that thing!

[@pacopakito4576]

this dude is so glued with his current age. dudis immortalis. haha

[@peepdaasleeppolice8348]

He’s spoiled

[@panchopachangas4450]

I’m glad I purchased this car. It has been fun taking it apart and rebuilding it. I just completely upgraded it last week. Now I think I’m ready to invest into something a little more race grade.

[@cbh148]

2:26 What caused the ESC fan to rotate 90 degrees?

[@nouse4aname4u]

Am I seeing things? Did the fan on the ESC move at 2:26-2:28 when Ryan waved his hand over it? Does he have magic?

[@FattyMattyG46]

Well said Ryan. You hit some very important key points about this car. Excellent job on educating the masses once again. Keep up the good content!

[@RCcarpenter]

So basicly...If u dont have a $1,000 don't bother to start racing? Everyone starts with a cheap car and all u people make them feel like shit cause they don't have a name brand rig! Have none of these hobby shops heard of or reccomend banggood? Other name brand parts fit, but the hobby shops don't wanna take the time, they'd rather just sell u something and look down on u, instead of actually helping. U have to go into a hobby shop like 4 times b4 they actually see u as a real customer. Not everyone has money like the pros!

[@namelastfirstname4124]

Classic KZbin backpedal! Love you Ryan!

[@daywalker8136]

love the update video. i think most people where shocked on the last video (including myself) cause of the way it was delivered. but i also did not look at it from a race point of view but rather a basher/fun point of view. i do not own one of these but still thinking of getting one just for a fun vehicle. i like to tinker with rc cars. i go to a track from time to time but nothing serious while i am there. would still love to see you throw in some of your electronics you have laying around then tune the vehicle and give it another go on the track.

[@patrickkennedy2533]

Hey Ryan . I was one of the guys that said i appreciated your driving . To be truthful , i have dived headlong back into rc because of folks like you and a main and a few others like short coarse . I too believed you could have chosen a better delivery of the car for this reason . Say a kid gets one of these and he or she is short on cash but loves the sport . Saying things harsh may divert someone new to the sport to not go any further into the sport, some don't bounce back . Explain why the car is better and what makes a car or model better or worse , which is why i said what i said about your driving . Don't be hard on yourself , I feel your a caring individual from how you deliver and explain things . Keep it up , you do the sport proud . This was by far a better video explaining the sport to newcomers than most iv'e seen .

[@PeterPeer]

I feel your opinion completely. I used to have a nikko rc car in the early 90's.(Sand Eagle II with NiCd batteries). Now I have a son and I bought two 'cheapo' ones (16101 and 16102). With Li-ion, brushless and esc/reciever combo like on the car you demonstrated here. We absolutely love to bash about. But we have been waiting long times for parts. Fortunately we have 2 so we can swap parts. The nice thing is that we were able to have a lot of nice moments with cars that run a lot better than the car I had in the 90's. Now we know that we both like rc'ing we are now looking and saving up for better cars. Thanks for your honesty and very informed opinion on this car related to your intended use. We will wait a bit longer until we can get better cars from the local hobby shop and have more fun in the long run. And until then, we will still enjoy the bashing and little unprecise racing with our crazy fast cars. And hope we don't break anything. 👍

[@tonyranquin1134]

Great video and feedback. You did a good job with this one Ryan. Cheers, from a Belgium RC driver

[@Johney_Nomadic888]

Bruh, no apology needed. The video was informative AF, and I doubt many people would disagree. I work for AMain Hobbies and everything you touched on is a regular occurrence. People have no idea what they're getting into, even with kit builds. The amount of people who give up after the first week is over the top. It's a lifestyle hobby that takes patience. Period.

[@scaleworksRC]

well said

[@datadrivenmqb]

A new option for those wanting to be serious about racing on a (lower) budget seems to be mini/micro size stuff. Multiple hobby shops are doing box stock Losi Nascar and Arrma Grom racing which is awesome. I race a 1/10 carpet 2wd buggy but racing Micro-Bs with friends is just as much fun IMO at a fraction of the expense.

[@adamc85007]

Good follow up Ryan, much better tone and what I have come to like about your videos. The first video just did not portray you and your values very well, this one did a great job of it.

[@ridetonight33]

Hey Ryan, this is pretty much the first RC channel I really enjoy watching AND learning a lot. About 10 jears ago when I was on the local track regulary I would have needed such a channel - Thanks for your great work on all of your videos! - I don't think you were making that car down too much in part one. You gave your honest opinion based on your experience. And probably who ever is planing to buy such a car is not watching your videos anyway - hahah! Keep up with your great work and take car(e). Best from Germany

[@nathanwilson588]

No need for an apology! Videos have always been great to watch and very enjoyable! Keep them coming.👍

[@garrettrek]

Yea totally agree. No need to apologize. If you’ve just started watching Ryan you’d know he is the nicest and must upstanding person. He isn’t trying to hurt anyone or seem better than anyone. I swear these days people can’t handle the truth or someone’s opinion if it varies from there’s.

[@1101nz]

TT02b spec class uses brushed motors. Isn't an issue. You should compare it to similar priced Tamiya.

[@OwenBuckingham11]

I have this WLToys car, I put a 13.5t Hobbywing motor setup into it and some carbon top plates to make the chassis more rigid. I also rebuilt the shocks and diffs completely, added a bigger pinion and some wheels/tires. It goes pretty good as a basher, I'd like to take it to a track soon and see how it does durability wise. I'd say it's around $350 for the car with all my upgrades, probably closer to $500 if you count my radio, spare parts, and better charger. So yeah end of the day, probably should have gone for a Associated or TLR. But I like the idea of this cheapo running around the track ;)

[@shadow7037932]

This is not something you want to spend money on hopping up. Just grab a few spare parts and it's fine as a light basher. For the price you've spent probably would have been better off getting a Typhon 3S or 6S.

[@justinbevier8231]

The thing is, if you're already going to change all the electronics, just buy a used b64 roller and put those electronics in it. You'll be farther ahead on money and have a better parts supply

[@W1DO]

@@justinbevier8231 or buy this wl toys as a roller and buy all the stuff you are going to need to buy no matter what car you have (charger, wheels, tyres, different weights of oils, extra batteries, nice motor, good esc and fast servo). That way you can eventually buy a really nice 4wd kit and put the stuff you bought in it

[@zaulubarajas3963]

I bought the car for $130 on banggood bought an upgraded brushless engine Servo and ESC for $34

[@bobthomas9403]

I don't have this CAR but I respect your MISSION!!! Sometimes admitting you did something wrong is not something everyone can do! MY hats off to YOU sir!! VERY PROUD TO BE YOUR SUBSCRIBER!!

[@pawdaypay]

Such a professional response. Really appreciate the honesty you provide here.

[@RCRacingLegends]

Extremely well-done video and a very well-delivered message. Everything you've said in this video is 100% true, and as much as I hate to say it, anyone who takes any sort of offense to not only your review of this RC vehicle but of all inexpensive RC vehicles as viable alternatives to true race-designed RC vehicles needs to seriously reconsider their potential involvement in the sport. I'll admit that I have a few WLToys RC vehicles. And I'm very happy to say that I have just completed the build of my Team Associated RC10 B6.3 (my very first Associated kit, and my first "true" RC race car). And I can say without any hesitation that there are absolutely ZERO comparisons in the quality of the parts, the fit and finish, the assembly, and certainly the performance between my WLToys RCs and my B6.3. It's not only a case of "you get what you pay for", but it's also that these inexpensive cars are designed to a price-point and built for a purpose, and that purpose is NOT competitive racing. If someone is looking to just get into the hobby - either for themselves or for their son/daughter/niece/nephew/etc... and isn't sure it's something they will pursuit beyond the occasional trip to the park or simply running their vehicle in the backyard or driveway, then an inexpensive RC vehicle from companies like WLToys can be a good option. There have been several instances in the past where I have suggested some inexpensive models from such companies. Of course, the suggestions do come with caveats in regards to spares and overall longevity. But as a gateway RC, many of these inexpensive RTRs can be a good initial choice. However, as you have expressed in your video if someone is looking to enter the world of RC racing, these inexpensive RC vehicles are absolutely NOT the way to go. Frustration, disappointment, and ultimately more costs are all these cars will result in if competitive racing is the ultimate goal. The trouble is, of course, people look at the price of "real" race RCs and once all the required parts/accessories/electronics/tires/wheels/tools/storage bags/etc... are factored in, they quickly shy away (and that's to say nothing of the commitment to track time and attending race events). So it's easy to see why the possibility of accomplishing the same thing with a "cheap" RC can be appealing to many who haven't had the proper exposure to the hobby. It's a hard-learned lesson. But this has been RC racing's Achilles heel since its very early days and remains that way to this day. You don't feel too bad when it happens to someone in their early 20s, but it's heart-wrenching when it's a child just looking to get involved in the hobby who probably spent weeks convincing his folks to buy them an RC so they can race it at a nearby track. Just gotta keep getting the right message out there. Keep up the great work!

[@alb9022]

Love this post as it covers all the major points really well. On a side note, I've been trying to convince 2 people, my dad and my brother, to get my nephew a better rc (something RTR grade from a reputable brand) as opposed to settling for walmart shit. While it's a fair bit more expensive and a moderate gamble for us to buy for a (then) 6yr old kid, I keep bringing up how they've bought him all these useless shit box rc cars that he doesn't like beyond 5mins of play, wasting literally enough money to have bought him an RTR that he might have a chance at remembering. Now I'm not telling them to go and buy the best or even the best RTR, I just think that they've bought him way too much crap (over 5 rc cars) that he's gotten bored of...

[@areldcookie5581]

The only problem is he was saying that from a racing perspective lol, of course it's a lot different since it is not designed to race

[@marcrives279]

Those RTR are Ready To Run, not Ready To Race. And they are nice for what they are meant to.

[@thisIsRC]

Did you notice at 2:26 the fan seems to do like one turn? Weird! The battery is connected but the esc is not on... I wonder is it some camera/lightning weirdness that happened after you hovered your hand over it. Intrigued.

[@jonhaas1231]

Left rear camber link just dangling 😆 I remember that from the first video. 28mm!! 😂 Felt part 1 was a direct & honest opinion I'd expect from a racer using this vehicle. Obviously some people got hurt. Humble Harris 😉 found a "nicer" way to explain it to a non-racer. Well done sir! You're a great rep for the hobby!

[@robertgibbs3883]

Spot on video seen too many new guys go down the same route and never seen again

[@richardwartsbaugh5553]

Really impressed Ryan. I was pretty upset how the last video came off. Now I understand the angle you were going for. As someone like you in the racing side of the hobby this car is a bad idea. You were not bashing it as a bad car just a bad car for racing. Thanks for making great vids.

[@davidorbell5803]

I think all together (part 1 and 2) are perfect and sums up the car just think if the order was different then people would had accepted it better. The order I would do in future is a overview of the car with your thoughts(start of part2), Then run the car (part1 video). and then do a summary of your thoughts and your recommendations(end or part 2).

[@roberttierney9284]

Many of my RC racing acquaintances would put Traxxas down as being lousy. I’d agree that as a racing vehicle Traxxas before 2008 had nothing competitive. Now Slash spec is a great way to get into racing. But if someone wanted to know what racing is like, IMHO, there has never been any reason not to bring your Rustler or Bandit to the track. Win or loose, racing was for me fun, It has to be as I was 46 when I learned that they race RC cars and that was 1996. If you bring your WLToys, Traxxas or whatever to the track and you have fun great. If your competitive nature takes over you will upgrade to better. We need to get more people into RC racing. Putting someone down because they do not have the best equipment will not do that. Helping them have a great time will. To me the best thing about racing is the people I do it with. So grow the hobby with fun, not insults

[@TroyConner765]

Really like this. Went through the same thing as a boy. I remember my hobby shop fitting a savage fuel tank in my 1/10 generic nitro buggy lol

[@BigBensOutdoors]

Ryan - thank you for telling the truth, even if it's tough. I just got back into the hobby after 25 years off back in June and I'm thankful I had a great hobby shop who sold me a Slash. Of course three months later and 9 other cars I've spent a ton more, the Slash is still such a fun staple. I think I spent $250 for an out of the box with charger truck which was OK and could race in the spec class right out of the box. I got my son a Slash Ultimate and he's hooked now, and very competitive - in his second race placing #3 in the B-main of the beginner class. Thanks for your honesty and go on the Hobbyplex podcast! It would be awesome! Cheers from Nebraska

[@urbanoutdoors9768]

Wltoys 104001 $125 + goolrc4300kv motor +esc $39 Dumbo rc controller $29 servo $14 3s lipo $20 = $227 full brushless 3s race car

[@davidpaul5943]

Ryan you should make a video on building or buying a budget racer with the new tlr 5.0 roller!!

[@ReneLopez-qc2vx]

Honest, humble, and reflective up to the end. Great follow-up video!

[@Synic08]

Those associated RS kits are the BEST competition RTRs on the market… they go bare bones in places that arent going to make you slow…

[@letzvisit1661]

Do you have a link for any stiffer doings for this car? Anything that would fit. Going to use it for speed runs. My steering links pop off so easy just turning sharp at speed. Any ideas on upgrades diffs also ? Apparently they aren’t too good either

[@morytox]

I was fooled by those videos.. got a 124019 1:12 buggy. Already replaced one dogbone, 2-3 front dogbone thingies, 1 steering connector arm, and 2 shafts that connect the chassis plate with the wheelassembly…. Also experienced Motor shut down after a couple of minutes, radio acceleration is delayed by a second … my net drivetime is under 2 hours for sure.. most replacements had to be done after 5 to 15 mins of drivetime total… very sad conclusion tbh. Replacement part prices are insane! Wouldnˋt have bought it with this knowledge. Really thanks for an honest review! If everyone would be as honest as you, world would be a better place!

[@kylemasterton8313]

"Make it fun, keep it fun" What a way to support and expand the hobby

[@Commander_ZiN]

What would make it fun, is a class where people without much money and fancy cars could compete.

[@tlfbshti364]

Fair play Ryan, fair play. This is the kind of Ryan we're used to and want to see more of!

[@Jakielopez]

Honestly, I've been following you for a couple weeks and I felt that your last video had a very different tone. While I didn't feel attacked, it felt very one-sided. I personally have a 124019 and it's my first rc car. The reason I chose this car was because I didn't even know what cars were good value, I didn't know what problems this car had, and I didn't want to spend hundreds of dollars on a hobby I may not enjoy. I don't doubt that a lot of people are in this exact same boat and it's pretty difficult to find anything negative about the wltoys cars. I really appreciate your apology and I'm sure a lot of people do as well. I also appreciate your honest impressions of the car since it shows US why there are better options.

[@Jakielopez]

@Daft Donkeys hmm, maybe I'm just not using the right search terms. Everytime I look up these cars I see speedruns, upgrade parts, and positive reviews (with the occasional backhanded comment on durability)

[@avarmauk]

My first RC car was the 124019 too. I doubt it’s any good for racing as a stock. But it’s a great little car for bashing and a great starting point imo. Sure, if you have cash to burn then go for a higher end vehicle, it will be objectively better.

[@mosabari7681]

If you are having fun, it is a great car. If you want get into serious racing, and that is a big If, you may want to get a car that is more geared for racing. Have fun, that is the most important thing. This is not F1. This is a nerdy hobby.

[@darkki94]

Wltoys are not for racing , they are for having fun and introducing ppl to the hobby on a BUDGET ! Yes a 500$ car might be 300% better but if you have 100-150$ that means nothing.

[@ultrarcgasolina9890]

Verdade

[@cousineddie7444]

Here's the way to explain this: Can you race it? Yes. Will you be competitive? Absolutely not. Will you finish a race? Probably. Will you finish a series? Absolutely not. If it breaks can you fix it? Probably. Are replacement parts readily available? Absolutely not. I raced a RC10GT back in the late 90's. I started with a basic kit, bronze bushings and all. After one session I recognized the reason for the $90 price difference of the basic kit, and the team kit. So I built it up, probably spending as much again in upgrades as I did for the kit to begin with. I blew the head off my first motor. Tore up steering servos. I didn't put the diff together right, didn't tension the brake properly, and got the slipper disk greasy. I was so out of my league going strait from Tyco direct to nitro stadium trucks, and the only reference I had was a 21min VHS tape. But after running the gauntlet for a couple of years, it was easily the greatest "toy" I ever owned. I think inexpensive RTR cars have their place, but it isn't racing. They are a great introductory experience, but you have to have low expectations. At the $150 price point, I would let someone experiment with something like a Mini-T/B RTR. It's a good experience, but also leaves some room for growth as a gateway into a more serious kit.

[@GregVandenBosch]

I'd really like to see you give the car some tires, basic race prep, adjust ride height etc, and then give it your best effort at the racetrack. Then post the lap times. I'm just really curious how it would do.

[@macShen]

Pretty new Sub here and i must say the last vid also struck me with a raised eyebrow, BUT you realized, adapt and overcome ;) we're all human after all and so are you, right? RIGHT? keep up the honest and good work Ryan!

[@augierosas3829]

Hi Ryan. I just posted this comment/question with another one of your videos and then watched this one and realized this is exactly where my question relates. I have been bashing for decades and am now just considering racing. I have all Redcat Racing cars which I know are considered economy class and therefore not at all race grade. My question is, if I just want to race the buggies I have (Tornado , Caldera, and Blackout XBE - all 1/10, brushless, 4x4 E-buggies basically), what can/should I do to max out their performance without investing too much or more than really makes sense for the type of cars that I have (i.e. upgraded servo, transmitter/reciever, ESC, motor?) I should add that 1) I plan to get my feet wet in the novice/rookie ranks using these cars, working on my consistancy and raceline tracking dymanics and then speed as you instruct. 2) I am 100% aware that my cars are FAR from "race-grade" and even with upgrades will only every be minimally competitive and I'm ok with that. I don't intend to spend bank on them because I couldn't spend enough to make them race-grade. I know that I would be better off spending that kind of money on truly race-grade vehicles like Losi or Associated. I'm just curious to hear what COULD be done with cars like mine to make them MORE race worthy at the rookie level. I truly appreciate you knowledge, experience and gracious, humble attitude. It's awesome! Thank you! After reading some of the other comments, I would like to add that it would be AMAZING if you would do video comparing the standard race-grade brands to upgraded non-race-grade brands - more of an apples-to-apples comparison. 1) it would just make for great entertainment by scratching a curiosity itch 2) You would be doing a great service to those of us that may never want to spend the race-grade dollars and would rather just upgrade what we have 3) It might just give some credence to the saying that it's the driver, not the machine. How true is that? I think you started answering that question when you drove a "disposable" car ONLY about 1 second slower than a serious race car! I would've expected a multiple second difference at least!. I was honestly kind of impressed and it gave me hope with the course I plan to follow. Before that I was thinking "crap, it looks like I'm going to have to spend $1k just to get my feet wet". Now I'm thinking I may be able to give it a go for another $250 over my initial $250. Thank Ryan.

[@johnneshiem2291]

No one is buying this to run it at the track but thanks for the good review. And try to find a better car for 120 dollars because you won't

[@johnneshiem2291]

Yes

[@1101nz]

Yes. It doesnt pretend to be a race car, its a basher

[@MattyS02]

Literally had someone this week post on the local track's FB page about running a WL Toys car as soon as Covid restrictions are lifted.

[@justtyler6366]

Hey Ryan! I have a question. Im new to tire prep. And slicks! Bot tracks I'll be running this winter are high bite clay. As a budget racer and less experienced. Is it more simple to buy say raw speed slicks and scuff them and add sauce and go? Or buy treads and work them down to slicks?

[@_BigLife_]

I have heard that this is a cheep copy of an LC racing LC10b 5. The LC isn't a cheep buggy, but it's not as expensive as other kits on the market. If by chance you ever came across one, it would be interesting to hear your thoughts.

[@random_memory_dump]

I don't know anything about this car but I think you can plug transponder directly to battery wires (with some soldering) or add dc dc converter to battery wires (just before esc) and connect it there. Anyway, thanks for good review!

[@ralphlongo1975]

This is why I love you, the context of other KZbinrs was an important part you left out of the last video that may have helped some lol. My son and I came up to SS Hobbies a few weeks ago, we talked to Ronnie, and Tony (? I'll feel bad if that's not his name) for quite a while. I mentioned we came there because of your videos, they said you weren't there I told them I wasn't stalking you, I just saw a cool place on KZbin so as all lol. Back on topic, it's a financial thing for me, Wesley and I have a good time but I felt like we were in the way and I can't race my brushed Rustler so we haven't been back. Neat place though, nice people too.

[@matthewmetzger7012]

Hey Ryan first off want to say i love your videos. I have learned a lot from watching them. I regards to this video i think a side by side cost comparison might be helpful to let people know that going cheaper might not work out in the end compaired to buying a kit race style car. Just as far as what it would take to get the cheap car to a race trim or at least to be able to race. Again love your videos and keep up the good work. See you out at track.

[@londonpirates]

Good summary. This car just isn’t equipped for racing and as you so rightly point out to make it race ready you will have to spend at least the price of the car again upgrading all the electronics and battery. However just because it’s not suitable for racing doesn’t mean it’s junk. There’s definitely a place for this for those who want a cheap car to bash at the park or do speed runs with and if that gets then into the hobby and maybe interested in racing later on then that has to be a good thing. There is a brushless version of this WLToys model on the way (with a more standard three wire servo and I think a separate ESC and receiver?). Could be an interesting time to revisit the racing suitability of such a car (certainly more sensible than trying to replace everything in the current one). With the right tyres and a more tuned set up could that be a entry level option for a beginner?

[@briyenmartin5154]

Best Comment ever 👍🏾😜👍🏾😜👍🏾😜

[@Puckstruckshuks]

Hey brother listen I wouldn’t be too hard on yourself. Anybody who is watching your channel should know that you focus on racing and that essentially all you were doing was demonstrating why it’s worth putting in a little bit more money upfront so that your racing experience is a positive one in so you don’t break some thing on a cheap chassis like this and maybe give up the sport all together. I can understand if someone watched your video and wasn’t really familiar with you - that they might kind of take it as a little bit elitist but in all honesty I think you should just brush it off. It was in good fun and yeah WL toys doesn’t make a good racing buggy. That’s just the truth when compared to the big racing brands. Nonetheless, good on you for apologizing to those that were offended and taking the higher ground. Always a fan of yours buddy!

[@hbc865]

Well put...I my self would never get some kind of RC with no support...I started with a well known brand..2wd rc still runs today..trxxxxs

[@k-barz5766]

Honestly this is like everyone's first "racing rc" ( Including my self ). But at the end of the day we all need to learn one way or another, and basically understanding this car and upgrading it will do exactly that. I literally just Bought my first 1/18th scale WL toys A 979 (first rc ever) In an attempt to make it a speed run vehicle. Now mind you I have an extensive fabrication background and over all am very mech inclined. All that said I ended up paying way more ($$$) than if I were to just buy a better car from the start. But I learned from it, and I put my all into it and have high hopes to get one of the fastest 1/18th scale cars in the world. Ide love to show you! You are an inspiration and require no apologies. Your videos take tons off effort to explain all the ins and outs trying to help people instead of hogging the info to your self to gain an advantage. Thank you so much for making such info pack high quality production valued videos for all of us.. your the best man!!!!!!

[@KnockedSoup]

My LC racing mini truggy got me to the track and gave me more track time than my RC8B3.2 does. Sometimes it’s good to walk before you run.

[@ABike_Pilot]

Mr Harris, Never apologise for being honest. People always hear things that are not spoken. Keep it up buddy, top quality content ✅

[@SuperAngryWalrus]

Great video, Ronnie seems like a cool dude!

[@racefreak11]

Here's a challenge for you Ryan, how about doing a video series on upgrading this car on a budget and try to get it race ready

[@beesod6412]

If you're buying used, only buy from someone you know well and trust.

[@bryongreenwell5256]

I race a PRO2 SC10 By associated. I made the A-main and finished third right out of the box. Since then I changed to 6.2 A-arms and change the shock oil and springs. So some RTR cars are great beginner cars.

[@StefsEngineering]

nice video, In my opinion it isn't a problem to be critical or negative. But I do believe you have to substantiate your opinion with proof, or generally when it is based on opinion and not fact, describe in more detail why it isn't your cup of tea. The arguments against this vehicle are solid, I totally agree. Unfortunately the vehicles that are significantly better are also more expensive with the same ratio. I drive a HK Vandal with a couple upgrades I did and/or designed and made for it. It drives very well for a vehicle of that price but it did of course cost extra time and money.

[@jamesdangercarpenter]

Super useful and informative video.... I was in a very similar situation recently; my nephew has a Maverick Truggy and because of lockdown hasn't had anyone to drive with/anywhere to drive. I noticed that there is a track nearby to us (within the 5km range we've been allowed to travel) and decided I would buy a car so that I could go drive at the track with him and maybe even enter a race at some point if he was enjoying it and wanted to. Well I went through all the hassle of trying to research this stuff online and ended up buying another cheap Chinese brand car (HSP) because I didn't want to spend as much as my nephew had on his Maverick. I did follow the advice of a few people online and make sure there were local suppliers for the parts, and that the electronics were made by hobbywing as they said that was important. Since then I wondered about this exact car.. Did I waste money on a HSP when this thing looked just as good? Well it turns out no, but not because I went into the decision with my eyes open, I just happened to stumble upon the right advice and follow it without entirely understanding why... Now I have an ESC, transmitter/receiver, motor, servo and even battery that I could happily drop into a TLR kit if I wanted to (obviously it won't perform like the expensive stuff, but it would work and be a stop-gap if I decided I did want to get into racing). I even have a spare ESC port for a transponder. Moral of the story is that I feel like I got lucky not buying this car, and I wish I'd seen this video sooner because I fell for the exact glowing reviews that you mentioned of the WLToys product. I think the car I have (and also the car my nephew has) are luckily just enough to go to the track and have fun (which we've been doing) and also enter a novice class race or two to see if it's something we enjoy doing, with the option to upgrade to something like the "proper" RC cars you mentioned if we decide racing is something we want to get into. If I'd bought the WLToys on the other hand, I would have been able to go to the track and mess around with my nephew a bit, but as soon as we looked into racing I would either have to drop a significant amount more cash to be able to drive with him, or more likely just call it a day without ever having a go.... And that would have been a real shame.

[@cbforme]

Back when I use to hang out a the hobby store I was a really bad at racing but I was really good a fixing the car so that what I did didn’t race for years but would go and fix my friends cars or anybody’s car that needed help.

[@scaleworksRC]

I'm finding out the same sort of issues with the Bonzai brand of RCs. They seem decently built for the price, and touted as "fully up-gradable" ..but it has issues. They even put a little port on the ESC for 3 wire servos or lights. It has that same crappy bus bar on the WL toys though. I got the 1/12 scale drift truck that's basically an Infraction clone. I'd just keep it stock and use a 3S pack until it wears out the motor in hindsight. You'll burn through the tires first though, which presents the first major issue. It has 12mm hexes which should allow lots of options, however the steering arms almost touch the inside of the stock rims which are 52mm. Most 1/10 wheels are 47mm. I wasted hours of cutting to fit wheels just to have them split because I had to shave them down so far. On the plus side, I pushed this truck to 56mph and it's been fun, but I can't get through 2 battery packs without something breaking.