How to install lithium batteries on a sailboat // Ryan’s tech corner #2

[@59NorthSailing]

This is great! One question - I assume you did the battery-battery charger because you've got effectively a "low-output/dumb" alternator, and this was the easiest "plug & play" option...? As I understand it though, one big benefit of lithium when off the grid is the fast-charging ability you could get from a high-output/regulated alternator. For example on ISBJORN, which has just under 1,000 aH Lead-Acid AGMs, we can blast out 220 amps from the alternator, but only when they're dead. As soon as voltage comes up, amps go down, so the charging time extends the fuller they get. But with lithium, I can go full-blast right til their full, right?! So like on ISBJORN, that battery-battery charger would be less than ideal, especially since I've already got the smart regulator that has a pre-programmed lithium profile. Am I understanding this correctly?

[@johanpren]

If I understand you ( and the video) correctly, I think the lead-battery only really come into play when there is a sudden shut-off from the bms. Then it buffers the return current. Otherwise the current just passes it and it will not slow charging down.

[@joarsvensson4968]

Yes, you're absolutely right. The internal resistance in a LiFePo4 bank is not as high as Lead-Acid/AGM, so it can take much higher charge in general. If the DC-DC charger is powerful enough, it won't matter much if you charge using that or directly from the alternator. But most DC-DC chargers I found are rather expensive for a high Amp spec, so in your case, the alternator on ISBJORN would most likely work just fine instead (if it's setup for LiFePo4 that is).

[@johanpren]

@@joarsvensson4968 uppenbarligen får jag åka till Tjörn och få konsultation inför kommande konvertering :)

[@RyanSophieSailing]

Hi Andy, Its a good question and interesting for your particular situation. If i remember correct you have some type of advanced regulator with the alternator? If this is the case you might be able to change a few small setting and it would work just fine. Would need to take a look. Ryan

[@markhooper3485]

Yes, BUT - it's more than capacity to absorb amps. Max voltage is a big issue, most dumb regulators may allow the voltage to exceed the cut out in the BMS wired into the top of each battery, and if that battery is the only thing connected to the alternator, when it cuts out you blow the diodes on the alternator and are now left sending the alternator for rebuild as well as shipping the batteries back to the factory to have the BMS replaced. Expensive, and slow, and you're dead in the water. Other big issue, and one rarely talked about, is float charging. Lead acids/spiral/gel/AGM will tolerate floating at a higher voltage. LiFePO4 do not. One of the big characteristics of the charge profile for lithium is that after reaching max charge, the battery must be allowed to run down to between 30-50% of charge before reinitiating charging/float. Most dumb alternators will happily keep floating at 13.7, rapidly killing the lithiums.

[@Sciolist]

I've seen lot of lithium battery instalation video on boat by other sailing channels. This was easily the most detailed and well made of the lot.

[@davidsmith127]

Best lithium conversion video I've seen! Thank you both for putting this together.

[@Burebizda]

This is my third time I watch this video. Perfect for my needs and level of understanding. Love you guys!

[@RyanSophieSailing]

So glad it helps! 🥰🥰🥰

[@peterfarley2784]

WOW!! Now speaking as an electro-phobic I have to say that looked easy enough for me to give a try and that is saying something. Well done for making something difficult look easy.

[@fredcanavan3864]

Thanks! More great information in one video on the subject than the other 100 that I watched. Thank you so much.

[@nikolaucznaum4312]

Thank you, superb narration with a clear explanation of the individual tasks.

[@urmajesty3866]

Wow so much informations and its completly free. I love it thanks Ryan :)

[@RyanSophieSailing]

we just ask that you like and subscribe :)

[@Bypassingnormal]

Thank you for the video answered so many questions

[@silkyjones2626]

Good job, Ryan clearly explained.

[@freakent]

Easy-peasy. Thanks, Ryan.

[@pblnlpalu]

Super explanation! Its not easy if you have no knowledge of these batteries! Thanks!!!

[@SoundzAlive1]

Thanks for your clear advice. A few things I noted; Very important the battery parallel connections be of equal length between batteries to ensure the same resistance from each battery. It was not an issue for you as all your batteries were next to each other and you cut your own cables but some may be tempted to use an existing cable of different length they already have. Another thing to point out is that when disconnecting batteries always disconnect negative first and when reconnecting batteries connect negative last. André

[@mini577]

Ryan has the best T-shirts......... this may not be the first time I have pointed this out. Another day, another great T-shirt.......

[@RyanSophieSailing]

Thanks Ferfetched! I'm a t-shirt and jeans guy. I wish i was more creative and i could just make my own and sell them... but i'm not. I have many more but some colors show up better on camera than others so many you never get to see! - Ryan

[@baconeggsandasphalt6532]

I was actually looking for a schematic and some detail for installing lithiums, new inverter, etc in an RV and came across your channel. Very impressed and very helpful. Thank you for this video and your wisdom!

[@mattf49006]

Ryan..after watching this I have no doubt your business venture will do well...on a side note..DUDE..you flew F-16s!..as a pilot myself i suppose if i wasnt flying Falcons sailing a sweet blue water boat with a smart hot French gal would work...lol..thanks for the tech videos..well done

[@amycollins6007]

This was such a brilliant, approachable video. Genuinely, thank you.

[@sailingcruiser25]

I'm looking to also install LiFePO4 and I really enjoyed your video. My design is going to be almost identical to yours, but I'd change one or two things. First is I'm planning on keeping the start battery separate from the house bank side but I'm still going to run the DC to DC charger like you're doing. The difference I'm thinking of doing is adding a toggle switch to the signal wire back to the ignition so I can shut off the charger if needed or if I don't need that extra power going to the house bank. The Alternator will still be connected to the lead acid starting battery so it's still connected. The other thing is your battery crimping should be more of a compression of the lug onto the wire in stead of a one sided crushing force. Better crimping tools will be marked with the lugs so that you get a nice even press and compression of the wire. Thank you for the very informative videos!

[@RyanSophieSailing]

Thanks for the note David! I agree about the Crimping... just need to find the correct tool for it. - Ryan

[@robertintress2155]

Superb video. Thank you for your efforts!

[@rimasmeleshyus9486]

Important information about batteries 🔋 I really like it and very informative

[@ed_richards47]

A very well put together video, which I'm sure will be clear enough for most boat owners to follow.

[@HopeOfJoe]

Ryan. Mistakes happen. Nicely done, Ryan. Nicely done !!

[@ianb4801]

A great video Ryan, well done. I had to chuckle about those Victron charge profiles though because I use altered ones depending on context - aiming at 90%SOC in port but always 100% heading into night during passage - you never really know what the weather brings tomorrow and I hate burning fuel to charge batteries. You touched on a couple of things that I did differently; not me correct making you incorrect, just different. My alternator charges only my LFP house bank, partly because charging LA beyond 80% is ridiculously slow. I switched to a Balmar alternator/external regulator to charge much that hose bank faster (fuel is precious during passage). You touched on alternators but I took that step. My LA starter battery is maintained solely, by DC-DC charger from my house bank, Sure, that means if my house bank suddenly vanishes then I die - but I'm over that. But it means that a single dead battery can easily just sit out without affecting the others. I'm also happier because this batteries can weld metal if you drop something on them. About connecting in my 4x100Ah LFPs, I went the Victron approach using a "Power In" to provide battery busbars, with a fuse for each battery, on top of the same sort of distribution bus bar arrangement. I didn't let my LFPs just sit "quietly" at first because their internal BMSs communicate with each other to give battery to battery levelling. And it works! I interrogated the BMS array that day, a week late, a month later again etc and the internal pack voltages are always nearly identical. The only thing I'm reticent about is that by windlass draws from my house bank as it did before but I'm on passage mode, at Panama on my way to Australia from Europe so that can wait until after I arrive and switch to fun sailing. An observation about my Victrom 100/30 MPPTs and I have one for each 305W solar panel. The fact is that they are just insane, never performing in concert under the same conditions - and it's anybody's guess as to which one misbehaves. Just crazy.

[@GregHutto1]

Wow...that was a serious project. I might be a little apprehensive as some fires start with the electrical system being overloaded or improperly installed. You made it seem very easy and straight forward. Nice job.

[@Schaneification]

Ryan getting better in front of the camera ;=)

[@zenaasura1769]

what id change is to put a bus bar right by the charge controllers and run a thicker cable to the switch. also a battery protect would be great to add to this setup. its a great setup. really cool.

[@jamestheotherone742]

You should know/tell viewer that carbon fiber, unlike glass, is a good electrical conductor. So if you've got it around electrical components (like your battery box), treat it appropriately like steel or aluminum. Like your videos! ;)

[@stevesheliflying]

Great job Ryan. This was the best video I have seen on LiFe batteries and the installation of them. Thanks for sharing with us all.

[@earthstick]

It’s a really useful video, especially the diagram. You could have saved downtime by making the new cables before disconnecting anything.

[@michaelhamilton5571]

I loved your" electronics for dummies" video

[@johnwootton836]

Thanks Ryan! Very informative.

[@mikeferguson2828]

Looks good. It’s my idea to make the changeover myself at year end before I go full time cruising next year. I have done a lot of the background changes like you. Victron 120/3000/12 inverter charger and Victron 100/50 Mpt controller. Just the batteries to buy and deal with the alternators. I hope to do this soon and the batteries last. All in all a nice informative video guys

[@charliemcgrain]

Really excellent work. Many thanks.

[@bill4nier]

Nice job, Ryan! Thanks for sharing. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😊⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵

[@neovo903]

I've been looking at a boat recently and planning on upgrading the electronics (radar, solar etc) and new batteries is one of them. Currently it has 3 Lead Acid House batteries, 1 starter battery and 2 fridge batteries. I was thinking of upgrading the House batteries to Lithium as there isn't a huge amount of space for lots of solar as I would need a frame and the transom is quite narrow.

[@sailingnunky2189]

Great video which will really help me going forward.

[@RyanSophieSailing]

You know who to call anytime you need help! ;)

[@jtgrandtour4115]

Vous êtes les meilleurs Ryan et Sophie, Joseph.

[@d3w4yn3]

Note to self: This Ryan guy is a battery genius... several years from now, when I'm actually restoring my boat, I need to bribe this guy whatever he charges (get it, charges? batteries... charges...) into just looking over my parts list with manufacturer and models listed to make sure I'm not accidentally making a bomb!

[@RyanSophieSailing]

😂😂😂

[@olumjumi]

so many years later and yep we bought dakota lithium 200 ah for our install,. is coming up thanks for the video d

[@seatravel8536]

Fantastic video!

[@bophoto]

Is it me or do Ryan look happy every time he say lithium ???

[@RyanSophieSailing]

That wouldn’t surprise me (Ryan gets stars in his eyes every time he enters a marine or a hardware store 😆)

[@djurodjurakaruci6773]

I LOOOVE batteries and tools man..

[@kjelpeterson5236]

Great episode

[@matthiasbaur9691]

I am missing an important safety feature in this video. There should be a fuse installed as close as possible to the batteries, to prevent fire in case of a short circuit in one of the wires connecting the battery. It is enough to have a fuse only on the positive terminal. Do you have one installed and if so where? I find it dangerous to tell people to do a battery installation without mentioning the importance of the fuses.

[@RyanSophieSailing]

Hello matthias. Yes this is a good point. We did not include it in the drawing but it is on the positive side just after the battery switch. This is where benteau placed it and we did not move it.

[@aljotock]

Awesome video!! One question please..... why 4 MPPT's 👍🏼

[@robertlee8042]

When I was a boy I made an electric hot dog maker. It was just a bunch of railroad spikes in pairs nailed through a board. About six pairs. I ran house current to the first pair and then from nail Tek nail to the back now. As you’re saying in your video I ran the wires the hot in the cold to the first pair. I found that if I Try to make six hotdogs, one hotdog across each pair of nails, the first pair of nails cook the hotdogs very quickly the second pair let’s quickly the third pair even less quickly and the last pair didn’t cook at all. I bet you could’ve put both hands across the nails on the last pair without getting much of a shock. This was about 1955. Why boat manufactures didn’t know this is beyond me. I’m sure they did. The issue was that the boat buyers didn’t know!

[@SpicyItalian4U]

Do you have a video on setting up solar with lithium batteries?

[@KirkThomson]

Thank you for another excellent video. We have more and more clients interested in getting LFP batteries in their RVs. I have heard that the cold can ruin the batteries if they are not warmed up properly before using. In the video you mentioned that they are good for cold weather. I just don't want to recommend something that I don't have proper knowledge about. I would also think that a B2B would be needed as the alternator on the tow vehicle could do similar damage as on a boat. Thanks for all the great information!

[@RyanSophieSailing]

Hi kirk, cold can be a hard thing for batteries of types. Its best to work with a manufacturer if your clients will be in the cold so that the battery can meet their needs. You are correct on the b2b charger... ours is working well. Ryan

[@KirkThomson]

@@RyanSophieSailing Thank you! I will contact your company. I assume that given its Iowa that they have a lot of experience with the cold!

[@philippedaudi1056]

Thanks a lot for this. Very clear and very very helpful. In my case, I am planning to get rid of the gas stove and to replace it with an electric one! Cheers and many thanks.

[@fredrikj1697]

Don't forget to have all positive wires from each Lithium battery the same length, and each Lithium positive wires should have it's own fuse. On the negative side all Lithium negative wires should have the same length from batteries to negative busbar.

[@SOLDOZER]

Complete bull.....

[@randyd4456]

Great vid!

[@debdoyle119]

Great job

[@EricP-e8q]

This design as shown in your white board schematic, is egregious. Where is the short circuit protection & where is the wire separation to prevent shorts.....? What other fault conditions need protection? What are you doing about grounding and is there any isolation between shore power ground and the boat ground and what is the scheme? What about lightning & EMI protection? With Lythium we are dramatically increasing energy density and I would of thought there would be advances in safety design. By the way you commented on the FAA but readers should know that CFR 25.1309 ammt 42 made huge improvments to the way to approach design for safety. Eric Boat owner for 50 years and commercial aerospace design.

[@ontyposrl]

It's almost the same design I made, the only issue I haven't resolved yet (and you neither I see) is how to maintain under charge the starter battery when the engine is off and you are at the hook for several days under solar and wind power or moored at the marina connected with the shore plug.

[@riverafamily3432]

Ryan I just purchased my first sail boat. im in the process of updating the battery and also going electric motor 48v. my question for you is if i install a 48v battery bank for the motor and house how would i convert 48volt to 12volt? thanks for you great videos it help alot

[@MVSKOOKUM1]

Wow nice video clip! It has motivated us to start considering changing over our AGM batteries to Lithium. We are worried our charging system may be too complex on our Nordhavn40 so we would have to hire someone. Learned a lot about the importance of the charger, alternator charging. Thanks a lot. Wanna come fly to Kitimat BC and help us? Lol. Jen

[@syzingara1347]

hi Ryan, i have pretty much the same setup as you described in the drawing. i have my starter and housebank batteries connected to the alternator through a diode bridge. in order not to fry my alternator after installing a lifepo4 battery, i was wondering if it is a good option to connect a DC-DC charger between the Alternator and the LIFEPO4 battery instead of placing it between the starter and the house battery bank?

[@geoffhayday6003]

A great video, thank you. One related question was I noticed you do not use vane steering gear but rely on auto pilot, which can be power hungry. With fridges and electronics as well, you must use a fair bit of power on long trips. How long do you have to run the engine for each day to keep everything topped up? I guess the solar panels alone are not enough? Thanks

[@cheekyencounter]

That was fantastic Ryan. I'm about to put in 800ah of house Lipo and I am quite nervous about it as I have the same complications of a bow thruster battery and engine battery...oh and a battery for two electric winches...also a bit concerned about the alternator and generator alternator...Im about to get a qualified electrician to install it all, but still worried (I think rightly so) as to whether he really can get his head around everything...wish me lick!...Thank you so much.

[@niolss]

You are talking about a “battery to battery charger” do you have a specific example of one of these? Can’t find that product

[@jima4656]

Lots of great information here. Thanks for that. I do have a question after looking at the Dakota website. Are your battery cases standard BCI sizes like Group 31, D8, U1, etc? I didn't see mechanical drawings or size specs listed.

[@vitoproplumber]

Great video. Which Battery to battery DC charger do you recommend. Thanks!

[@RobertStevensService]

Are you missing fusing so you don't burn your boat down 😮

[@edwardfinn4141]

This two part series was a great explanation of Li Fe PO4 vs lead acid. When you gave your cost comparison, did you include the cost of new cabling and new crimping tools?

[@RyanSophieSailing]

No, not really. Its a very valid point though because that can add up quick.

[@edwardfinn4141]

Thanks for getting back to me Ryan.. My IP 35 is still in the Carribean at SXM For now, I’m gonna stick with my original 60 amp alternator and A 2000 watt Honda generator

[@grantpedder7719]

I fitted six 12v, 1kWh or 80Ahr *SUPER CAPS* in parallel. My installation is exactly the same as described here. Victron DC to DC Charger set to 13.4 volts. They have a 1 *MILLION CYCLE LIFESPAN* or factory recommended lifespan of 45 years, they're non toxic, can be safely discharge to 0 volt and stored at 0 volts indefinitely, they're non flamible, can never explode, they are 99.5% efficient, and safe to transport by air. They weigh ± 15 kg each. We run an 80L deep freeze @ -19⁰C and fridge @ 2.5 - 4.5⁰C 24/7/365 plus lights, windlass too(1200W or ± 100amps). They also run nav station, auto pilot and bilge pumps. They start our 2000cc(50HP) Perkins diesel on a dime with change to spare. We've never seen them below 12.8 volt or 80% SOC and are normally fully charged by lunchtime and on successive cloudy days they'll charge to ± 95% SOC. We're charging with 2 x 330W pollychrystal solar panels. We'll change these to monochrystal though as they handle shadows better. We live aboard permanently and have had them on our 45ft cruiser for 3 years and they're functioning at 100%. They're also available in 48 volts. These are the best things since sliced bread. Two could do the job but if enough is good then more must be better...no? 😁👍🏻

[@jrisinlove]

Make a video

[@earthstick]

This is a very useful video, just one question. How do you trickle charge the engine starter battery? The DC-DC converter will only charge from starter to house, not the other way.

[@stefanboone3739]

Hi Ryan, very interesting video. I do have a question in reference to the 12V/12V charger to charge the lithium battery service pack from the engine AGM battery. I have Mastervolt on my boat and I know the Mastervolt Magic that is made to achieve this charging job. Problem is that Mastervolt Magic only exist in max 20 amps witch is a bit low compare to +/- 80 amps that the engine alternator can give. Can you tell me what alternative to Mastervolt I have for those 12V/12V chargers? Thanks for your help, Regards STEFAN

[@paulhughes6764]

Cheers very illuminating 😉

[@jchristense5]

Good Good gooooode video 👍

[@randyd4456]

Would also love to see a how to video on that carbon fiber battery box. Never used CF before and i know there are safety concerns, but really just want to see how it was done.

[@rlpatton1970]

Where would your bow thruster hook up and play into this system?

[@ruairidhmunro]

Good clear explanation Ryan. Only negative is that that wiring has my OSD going stratospheric … I'd need to have it waaaaay neater and more organised !! I'd probably end up ripping half of it out and then not know what went where and needing to get the boat rewired professionally. My OSD is in overdrive just looking at that battery compartment.

[@RyanSophieSailing]

I agree. But to get all those wires under control i would have had to remove everything and that was not going to happen (Ryan)

[@stevenuk]

great video, love the diagram.

[@lifesailinc-lsi1120]

Well done

[@JavierSanchez-fq2df]

Hey what best potects the 100ah 12volt lithium battery from rain and salt water if a bettery box is too big? This battery is IP65 rating and will be right by the transom of my montgomery 10 and will be directly connected to a 55lbs thrust aquos hewsing transom black trolling motor. Great video. Looking forward to your feedback.

[@commutepays]

Ryan, exceptional video details. Any chance you can do a more recent transparent update on Dakota lithium sailboat batteries considering many changes and other conflicting reviews of manufacturing quality and technology changes from competitors. Specifically, do you still stand by your brand and does it still live up to your standards or has the company grown and become compromised in the process. All the best, great content. Thank you

[@karlsamuels5300]

Ryan, I love your instructional videos. You knowledge of the operating systems is awesome. In my books you are a genius. You are the type of person that is need as crew on a sail boat. Sophie you are a hoot........KING SIZE HAIR DRYER. Thanks you two.

[@henriquecostaveigadecarval8347]

Thanks!

[@nunop6606]

Great both videos!! One question: Can you have 2 or more batteries groups separated but in parallel? example: 4 batteries in one box and more 4 batteries in other box (2 meters distance) connected with the first box.

[@SoundzAlive1]

Yes you can but check that your Lithiums can accept being connected in series or parallel as some won't. The only other thing is when connecting a bank ensure that all the cables are the same length to keep the resistance the same to each battery and to each bank. The banks can be apart some distance. Best to use one of these to protect your batteries. sterling-power.com/products/alternator-open-circuit-protection-device?_pos=1&_sid=272ee4f3e&_ss=r André

[@nunop6606]

@@SoundzAlive1 Great Ryan! See you on the Ocean!

[@jonathansbn2155]

Hello ! Veery good explication. Please wish power DC/DC do you choose from victron for how many AH of batterie ? Thanks

[@anthonyreid4300]

If the charger is set to charge on a Lithium profile. Will this be bad for the SLA. Or do we now need 2 battery chargers when connected too shore power?

[@It-b-Blair]

Initially I was thinking a unified power bank would be a great weight reduction, yet on hearing your points, I also realized having redundancy for important navigation/maneuvering electric draw with multiple batteries may be more important 🤪🤷‍♂️

[@joegillum]

I'm not sure if you considered or did this, but is your battery to battery charger capable of reverse charging? If so what brand did you go with? I saw another battery overhaul video that used a Sterling BB1240 but that puppy is $450! The idea being, and what I want to do, is charge the starter battery off of the alternator, which in turn can go through the B2B charger to charge the house Lithiums, but also have reverse charging automatically kick in when I am parked on shore power and keep the starter battery topped off - especially over longer periods of non-use. Does your system handle this and could you (or anyone) recommend cheaper options for the B2B that aren't in the Sterling price range? Great video! Thank you!

[@tinykenworth1721]

So when I bought my Dakota batteries I was told to fuse each one...? Any thoughts?

[@SailingCAVU]

Ryan, being in the industry have you seen insurance companies resistance to changing to LI and how do we make sure it isn’t a problem?

[@keithmcconnell5111]

if my house batteries are also the batteries for my bow thruster on my sailboat, will this be an issue changing my house batteries from lead acid to Lithium?

[@MondoRockable]

So in this LiFePO4/lead setup, is all your loads (220v, 110v, 12v) running off the inverter/charger? Or just the 220v/110v? If not, does the 12v loads jump off the busbars?

[@chachi5975]

Yes the busbar would directly feed your 12V fuse block.

[@donsterful]

Do I need special lithium batteries for a boat? Or will just any lifePO4 work?

[@ap31.3td]

Hi Ryan. According to your Wiring Diagram your starter battery is directly connected to the alternator. The electricity generated in the alternator flows through your starter battery, which is an SLA, and continues through a Battery-to-Battery charger to your positive and negative terminals and continues to charge your Domestic Lithiums. The chargers you programmed for charging the Lithiums. So far so good. In your first video you show how to increase your alternator output with a Wakespeed regulator, which I assume you have to program for the type of battery as well. My question is how you program the Wakefield to charge the Domestic bank, which is Lithium but the generated current has to pass through the SLA-starter Battery?....or did I miss a point here?

[@kathrynlockwood1180]

I have the same question, did you get the answer?

[@ap31.3td]

@@kathrynlockwood1180 ---no, i did not---

[@christopherlynch3314]

on our boat "currently" I love electrical humor!

[@jeffdege4786]

Figure how much it's going to take then add 50% to it? Best rule of time estimating I've seen is double and increment units. So if your best guess is three hours, figure six days. If two days, figure four weeks. (And if you don't have water when the power is out, you need a manual pump. Redundancy in all critical systems.)

[@hectorharvey2227]

Really informative video...and I don't even have a boat! :)

[@akkemik]

which battery to battery charger you used?

[@MsVideovik]

Hello, I recently took a course on electrics on a yacht and the teacher there claims that fuses should be in the positive network and not in the negative What do you think about this?

[@dan5641]

Hi Ryan and thanks for the video. I'm looking into converting to Lithium. In your setup, you're not charging the starter battery with solar, only with the alternator. What is the reason for that?

[@gorgonsailor]

Hi Ryan ー this is very informative. I'm just looking into this conversion. My question is how does on-off switch fit into the wiring diagram? Or A-B-Both switch? Thanks!

[@willarddevoe5893]

A peek into the past is also a peek into the future. Germany lost 1/2 of it's PKW4 tanks to batteries in parallel. It was a good thing. In the morning, the tanks could not start and dead batteries could not turn the turrets. Yachts and semi trucks are often supplied with isolation switches. They allow batteries to momentarily tackle huge discharges such as starting, then be isolated for separate charging and storage. If i am going to buy two big 12 volt batteries, I'd instead buy two 6 volt batteries to use in series. They don't squabble in series. One gentleman on youtube yanked his electrical project, and posted a new article when he learned the right way he should be encouraging. When things go wrong, disconnect every single battery, and charge them individually. Don't leave anything in parallel. Fair seas, Maties.

[@sailingandsomejokes]

Great vid! One thing came to mind tough. I was thinking that lithium battery bank should only be charged via battery to battery charger. In this setup inverter / charger loads only lithiums. That ok because engine starter battery is assumed to be full, because it is utilized on moments, and it is loaded then first. And finally to the question. Before you did this lithium upgrade, alternator charged Both battery banks. How did you disconnedted the original setup of Both banks? I am planning also Similan upgrade for Jeanneau boat. Just thinking last considerations..

[@rweinc1424]

Shouldn't the MPPTS negatives have gone into the input side of the negative shunt?

[@robertscholz4486]

I have one question ... how does the shunt communicate with the inverter / charger? You never showed any connection between the two on the schematic. Are they both Bluetooth devices?

[@rwdyer2263]

I’m sure someone else mentioned this already aside from being a great video the thought occurred to me that the whole or the space underneath of the old battery box might be there to catch sulfuric acid if for some reason your battery would become damaged and it were to leak out. I don’t know if that’s why it’s there but that was just a thought I had

[@RyanSophieSailing]

I think its just a construction thing. Not really sure either... was not expecting to see it when i pulled the old ones out. Ryan