Ryobi P117 one+ battery charger guts

[@ethansworkbench2510]

At about 9:48, the traces in question are spark gap arrestors, a controlled flashover point in the event of a catastrophic surge.

[@reasonablebeing5392]

I received seven broken ones and was able to repair 5 of them - Two were severely water damaged and not repairable. My tips: Check ALL of the through hole diodes with the diode test mode on your multimeter. One had a bad 1N5408 diode at D3. Some models have a SMD resistor at position R71 labeled "R500" which is a .5 ohm resistor and was open on three of the units. I had 1 ohm quarter watt resistors and paralleled two of them to replace them. There is enough room to tack them on the SMD pads. That will restore the 5V and the power light should come on when you plug it in. Another had R8 open which is marked "100" and is a 10 ohm SMD resistor which I replaced with a tacked on 1/4 watt 10 ohm resistor. I had to replace the TOP256ENs on some of the ones with the open resistors. The other secondary produces approx. 36VDC at the common pin on the TO-220 dual diode marked "D20". So if the power light is on and you measure approx. 36V at the common of D20, you should be able to test the charger. Be sure the unit is unplugged and that capacitors E1 and E2 are drained or discharge them before you start working on the board. - There is approx. 350V across both of the capacitors in series and they will bite you.

[@randacnam7321]

I would replace the switcher control chip with the next highest rated one in the series, as the higher power devices have lower on resistance FETs inside. Did that with my P125 years ago and it runs a lot cooler. Lees heat more good.

[@reasonablebeing5392]

@@randacnam7321 Awesome recommendation.

[@SeattleCoorain]

Thank you for the detailed info. My P117 quit working and your video gives me a headstart to troubleshoot.

[@blackbook0]

Hi there, How to check the electronic parts of the Ryobi P117, and Discover the problem

[@gianfrancoa]

Great walk through of the charger. Mine died after the 3rd charge. I've got this charger as part of the charger recall, and now is useless. Will take a look for the obvious stuff (fueses, etc)

[@randacnam7321]

gianfrancoa Check the electrolytic capacitors as they are the usual culprits in something like this failing. As an aside, I only plug these in when I am charging a battery as that greatly extends the life of the caps due to them not always being under bias.

[@thecombatengineer7069]

I just got a bunch of these that died after a few cycles. I'll be doing some videos detailing how to bring them back to life. The switch mode IC is the culprit in 90% of them.

[@LesterElm1]

+The Combat Engineer I am highly interested in your findings and how to repair these dead chargers.

[@tuscaroradave]

Do you think the MOV for input surge protection on this single port charger would be the same as one on a 6 port Ryobi charger?

[@randacnam7321]

Don't remember as it's been a decade since I've been in either, but any 120VAC to 130VAC nominal varistor should work if you are looking for replacements.

[@billspradlin9619]

Like to share my experience with my P117. Picked up a nonworking Ryobi P117 battery charger hoping I could fix. I've replaced one component so far TOP256, no dice. The other components I've ohmed out what I could, finding nothing shorted. So far, no luck. Without a schematic / road map it's rather difficult. I've downloaded lots of KZbin videos but still no dice. Before replacing any components check the windings on the main Transformer. The 'high voltage' on the primary circuit side isn't working. You should hear a bussing sound (the high voltage oscillator) feeding the primary winding. This circuit powers the primary winding of the yellow transformer in the middle. The primary winding has four pins. The resistance within these types of transformers, usually have a low resistance. Two pins have a very low resistance (ohms). The other two on the primary side measure a very high resistance of megaohms. At the time I wasn’t sure why. I would have expected a low reading of around 20 ohms. The secondary winding also had four pins and all four measured a low resistance. I decide to unsolder the transformer because what do I have to lose, it doesn’t work anyhow. I found the wire coming from the winding was broken off at the soldering pin of the transformer. Soldered the broken wire back to the pin. It’s fixed.

[@randacnam7321]

If the switcher died short, it probably fried the transformer primary.

[@billspradlin9619]

@@randacnam7321 Ya good point. But I was thinking the TOP256 that I replaced may have not even been bad. Looks like the wire from the primary winding just broke off to the soldering pin. Maybe I Should ohm out that TOP256 just to see if it's shorted.

[@randacnam7321]

@@billspradlin9619 If the wire is accessible (i.e. broke off at the PCB pin) that should fix the problem right there. On another note, it would be good long term to replace the TOP256 with a TOP257. It will run much cooler. I did that years ago to my P125 supercharger.

[@billspradlin9619]

@@randacnam7321 Thanks for the INFO.

[@TheTonyMcD]

I got one of these guys here that's gone bad. Insert a battery and I just get a blinking red light. I inspected the board and saw no burnt components, degraded solder or anything out of the ordinary. I'm above average experience in these situations, but definitely still amateur. I'm going on a hunch that it might be the relay. I don't hear it click when I put the battery in, like the working one does. So I bought a new relay using that SPA-S-112DM number, it was only like four bucks so why not? If that doesn't solve the problem, I assume it is that IC on the back. I really hope not because I have no idea if I'll be able to find a replacement part online. Also those are a real pain in the ass to solder. I could do it, but it ain't gonna be pretty. Does anybody have any opinions/suggestions or other feedback for my situation here? If the relay doesn't fix it then I'll probably just buy a new one. I think it was like 40 bucks. But I would like to be able to fix mine up, I enjoy this stuff. Either way I will update my comment with results when I get my relay. P.S. Damn thing is still actually under the three year manufacturer's warranty. Unfortunately I don't have the receipt and the store doesn't keep it on record this long after purchase. Of course, right......

[@matthewwp56]

Great info - mine popped when I tried to use it on my 49cc 2 stroke 900 amp generator (Harbor Freight). It seems the cap in the middle by the transformer is bad. cna I check it on board? How please?. thanks, Nsmaste RevPops

[@randacnam7321]

The caps are probably not bad unless physically distorted as it is usually the switcher chip that dies but I would replace all of the electrolytics along with the chip if any are as the stock ones are meh.

[@internationalpimpall]

Thanks for posting this Video, there isn't much technical info on Ryobi chargers online. At 2:05 you point out a monolithic switch mode IC, mine is visibly burned and I'd like to replace it but I can't get a part number since it's charred. Any chance you know what that is, or could look at yours? I can't find detailed info anywhere. Thanks

[@randacnam7321]

+internationalpimpall It is a Power Integrations TOP256 in this model. I would replace it with a higher rated power device in the family as they have a lower FET ESR and thus run cooler. I would also recommend only using these chargers when charging a battery and leaving them unplugged otherwise as the switcher chips in these tend to die after a few years if under continuous bias.

[@internationalpimpall]

Thanks, I appreciate it.

[@internationalpimpall]

That fixed it -Thanks again.

[@mblake0420]

+randacnam7321 I believe that's what happened to mine, smells burnt and nothing lights up. what upgraded part number do u recommend?

[@randacnam7321]

One of the ones in the part family list in the datasheet with a lower FET ESR/higher power rating.

[@stevesmith3033]

Hey mine just failed. I don't have any voltage on the secondary side of the BCK2801 transformer. Is the transformer at fault or could a component connected to it be the cause? Thanks

[@randacnam7321]

Something is up with the SMPS driver. Probably a dead driver IC, but those going can be due to other things as well as cause other things to die.

[@stevesmith3033]

@@randacnam7321 Every pin on the primary side of the transformer has 172v. On the secondary side they are 0.5v. I tested all the electrolytics and the leaded diodes and caps. All fine. Can you possibly narrow it down more specifically ? Thanks

[@randacnam7321]

@@stevesmith3033 That means the transformer drive FET isn't driving the transformer. You should see a ~600mV to 700mV diode drop from the source to the drain of this FET if you do a diode check _with the charger disconnected from mains._ The gate should read as an open to the source and the drain.

[@dawgfanpaul]

listen to your presentation

[@LesterElm1]

I found out why the P117 is called a '30-minute' charger. Mine died after charging a P102 battery for 30 minutes.

[@jtswick04]

Mine did the same! Did you find fix? (Other than taking it back?)

[@LesterElm1]

I took it back and exchanged it. No problems with the second unit.

[@supermanotorious]

Thanks for your video! Mine just stopped working by telling me all my batteries simultaneously went bad with the flashing red light. I opened it to inspect the circuit board components. Nothing seems burnt, broken, swollen, leaked, or anything. I'm pretty handy with a multimeter but I'm not so familiar with what each of the components actually do. Would you be able to suggest a troubleshoot process?

[@stinkycheese804]

These are not rare or expensive. The troubleshooting process for someone who doesn't know how to repair it is to put a battery in and if it won't work right, buy a new one. Seriously, learning electronics can be a rewarding hobby and money saver but you need to start with lower current, lower voltage DC devices to learn the ropes, not mains powered devices... that charge Li-Ion batteries no less.

[@thecombatengineer7069]

I'm doing a video for repairing these and will post it shortly. They were notoriously bad and thousands of them failed!

[@LesterElm1]

+The Combat Engineer When will you have a repair video posted?

[@dragan3290]

I have a 36 volt Ryobi battery charger. I want to convert into a power supply or lead acid battery? Can I hook up a DC to DC converter ( buck style to lower from 36 to 14 volts? Any reply appreciated cheers from Australia!

[@randacnam7321]

You might be able to do that, but these are really built as 10S lithium ion battery chargers. However, you could make an adapter from a dead 40V or 36V battery (same battery; different marketing) to connect to a 10S EV battery module and pair that with a 36V inverter to make a cheap power bank thing. It could also work for charging 3 identical 12V batteries in series.

[@dragan3290]

@@randacnam7321 thanks for the reply. I actually thought about the batteries in series. But I thought surely I can lower the output voltage somehow? I like your idea! Thanks heaps!👍👍👍

[@randacnam7321]

Just watch out for any possibly tingly bits. I know that those with the knowhow to fix one of these will be on the watch for such things, but I say this in case there are any people who don't that read this.

[@waynesutherland5278]

what is the input voltage of that unit my cord got cut off an i just want toput a transformer or another lead on it. cheers wayne

[@randacnam7321]

120V. Just needs a mains cord.

[@alexanderauestad6587]

Do you now how you can convert the p117 over too 220 volt 50 Hz. can I change the plug or do I need too replace some component?

[@randacnam7321]

220V to 120V transformer.

[@XChaoticComposerX]

GREATEST VIDEOS... :)

[@sonny2435]

I bet you are just a blast at a Holiday Party ! ;>))